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Microfiche 
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Collection  de 
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Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microraproductions  historlquas 


990 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  tec^ 


The  Institute  h<j<  attempted  to  obtain  the  best  original 
copy  available  for  filming.   Features  of  this  copy  which 
may  be  bibliographically  unique,  which  may  alter  any 
of  the  images  in  the  reproduction,  or  which  may 
significantly  change  the  usual  method  of  filming,  are 
checked  below. 


0 

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Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag^ 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restauree  et/ou  pelliculie 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Caites  giographiques  en  couleur 


71 


0 

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□ 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blim  or  black)/ 
Encro  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relie  avei  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliura  serr^  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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r        I  Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may  appear 

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been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainei  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lurs  dune  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  taHta, 
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Commeniaires  suppl*mentairei: 


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I  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire  qu'il 
lui  a  ete  possible  de  se  procurer.   Les  details  de  cet 
exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-^tre  uniques  du  point  de  vue 
bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier  une  image 
reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  urw  modification 
dans  la  methode  normale  de  f  ilmage  sont  indiques 
ci-dessous. 

□  Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


□  Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

□  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurees  ^(/ou  pollicultei 

0  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  decolor^s.  tachet^es  ou  piquees 


detached/ 
Pages  detaches 


rough/ 
ransparence 


HShowthr 
Transpar 

□  Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualite  in^gale  de  I'lmp 

n 

0  Includes  index(es)/ 
Comprend  un  (des)  i 


mpression 


Continuous  pagination/ 
Pagination  continue 


ndex 


Title  on  header  taken  from:/ 
Le  litre  de  Ten  t#te  provient; 

□  Title  page  of  issue/ 
Page  de  litre  de  la  I 

□  Caption  of  issue/ 
Titre  de  depart  de  la  livrait 


ivraison 


vraiton 


D 


Masthead/ 

Geniriquo  Iperiodiquail  de  la  livraison 


iB« 

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ion 

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XX 


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The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
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Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  b« 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

4 

6 

ced  thanks 
ada 


L'exemplaire  film^  fut  reproduit  grdce  A  la 
g^n^rosit^  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


t  quality 
legibility 

^  the 


are  filmed 
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te.  All 
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a  printed 


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"CON- 
END"), 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6ti  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet^  de  l'exemplaire  film^.  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ♦■  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 


id  at 
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Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
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reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droita, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  LeK  diagrammes  suivants 
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CANADA 


NATIONAL  LIBRARY 


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MY 


CANADIAN   JOURNAL 


1872-78 


EXTRACTS   FROM   MY   LETTERS   HOME 

WRITTHN   WHII  I- 

LORD   DUFFER.N    WAS   GOVERNOR-GENERAL 


BY   THE 

MARCHIONESS  OF  DIJFFERIN 


AUTHOR    OF   OUR    V/CE- 


AND  AVA 


REGAL    Ulh-    IN    INDIA 


N  R  W     YORK 
"•     ^''PI-ETON    AND    COMPANY 

iSyi 


cr  c 


Oh/ 


US 

'  i  i 


151462 


Copyright,  1891, 
«v  M.   APPLETON  AND  COMPANY. 

All  rights  resen'fd. 


31462 


TO    MV  CANADIAN    FRMONMS 

■Jins  MITI.K   BOOK 
»S    AIFF.CT.O.NATKLY    INSCR,„e„ 

H.  L).  Ji  A. 


I'KICFACE. 


«H 


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Caa,l,a„  ,1,,,.  „,.„  ,,,i„,„  „„„     ,  J 


VI 


I'l^EFACE. 


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PREFACE. 


VII 


\ 


many  others,  who,  if  they  read  these  pages,  will,  I  hope, 
remember  that  they  relate  but  a  quarter  of  the  events 
and  the  pleasures  of  the  years  we  spent  in  Canada,  and 
give  but  a  few  of  the  names  of  those  with  whom  we  made 
enduring  friendships,  and  with  whom  we  worked  and 
played  and  enjoyed  our  life  in  the  Dominion. 

1  have  also  been  sorry  to  pass  so  very  lightly  over 
the  cordiality  and  the  friendliness  invariably  shown  us 
whenever  we  crossed  our  borders  into  the  United  States; 
for  whether  we  were  traveling  officially  through  Chicago 
or  Detroit,  or  went  as  ordinary  visitors  to  New  York  or 
Boston,  we  were  always  received  with  a  kindness  and  a 
hospitality  which  we  can  never  forget. 

I  must  also  say  one  word  as  to  the  silence  on  all 
political  matters  maintained  in  this  Journal.  I  have  not 
attempted  to  record  in  it  any  part  of  the  business  of  the 
Covernor-General ;  and  it  is  only  as  they  affected  our 
movements^  or  our  social  arrangements,  that  I  have, 
even  distantly,  alluded  to  public  events,  and  then,  I  fear, 
in  a  somewhat  light  and  irresponsible  spirit. 

The  Cxtvernor-Cicneral  and  his  wife  belong  to  no 
party;  and  we  met  with  such  universal  kindness  from 
all  persons  with  whom  we  came  in  contact  in  the  Do- 
minioii,  that  I,  at  least,  never  wanted  to  remember  that 
people  (liffired  from  each  other  in  their  political  views, 
and  was  only  too  glad  to  leave  politics  to  those  whom 
they  necessarily  concerned. 

IlAklOT    DUKKF.RIN    AND    AVA. 
CLANDRBovr,  Angust  1 8,  1891. 


i 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ARRIVAL  IN  CANADA. 
Ji'NE-Arc.iJST,  1872. 
The  Voyage— Reception  at  Quebec- River  steamers  on  the  St. 
Lawrence-Arrival  at  Ottawa-Rideau  Hall— Household  ar! 
rangements-ChaudicVe  Fall-The  Lachine  Rapids-Quebec 
— PrivilefTCs  of  the  Kings  of  France— Montmorency  Falls— 
RivitVe  du  Loup— The  />«»/«//>«- Cacouna— Tadousac— The 
Saguenay-Trout-fishing-My  first  entertainment  in  Canada 
—An  early  church— Canoeing  and  camping  on  the  Marguerite 
River— Our  first  Cantidian  salmon  , 


PACK 


CHAPTER    H. 

gUEHEC. 
AlTOl'ST-SEPTEMnER,  187a. 

The  Citadel-Setting  up  house- Our  first  dinnc-r  party— A  picnic 
-"Mr.  HrigRs  "-Social  dutics-The  Ursulinc' Convent- 
Canadian  songs-The  local  institutions— Receptions  at  the 
Convents-Ball  given  by  La.ly  Ilelleau-irniversitd  Laval- 
The  Stadacona  Hunt-llall  at  the  Citadel-Departure  from 
Quebec    .... 


30 


CHAPTER   HL 

ONTARIO. 


September-Octoher,  1872. 
Toronto— Hainitlon— Grand  reception  at  Toronl..-Niagara-The 
Falls-HulTalo-Drawing.room    at    Toronto— Woodstock— 


CONTENTS. 


London— Petrolia— Schools  at  Toionro_TJ,„  v    .    r.. 
CHAPTER    IV. 

OTTAWA. 

November,  i872-January.  1873 
Ottawa-Rideau  Hall-Thankscivinfr  Dav-Ti,„  r    .  ^- 

txcelluncy's  v.sit  to  Montreal-Daily  routine    S        u 

-Canadian    celebrities-Frost-bitelra:^:';::;^.' 
below  zero-Skating-Sleighing-Ncw  Vear'f  Day  ". 

CHAPTER   V. 

MONTREAL, 

January-Fkhruary,  1873 

<^iircX-B  N™  ° VTf ~-7T^  '''"'-■^'"'  "- 


rACB 


37 


48 


matches 



CHAPTER    VI. 

OUR   FIRST   parliamentary   SESSION. 

Fkhruary-May,  1873. 

ArranRcments  for  the  season  at  Ottawa-Cal.inct  dinner    Onnn 

2;;f  .•arlia.ent-The  Hrawin^-roo-n-Treltri       -,?:     i 

nientary   .I,n„ers-nall    at    Ridcau    Ilall-Prince    Edwlrd's 

Island  jo„»  the  Dominion-Birth  of  a  daughter    .  ' 

CHAPTER   VH. 

ON   THE  ST,    LAWRENCE. 
Jl'NK-Jut.V,  1873, 
Sir  George  Cartier  -Quel.ec-Christening  of  ,he  Queen's  .od,.,,nd 
-V  kcrcgaS  function.-The  Z>^.,./-T,dousac-.The  Godbout 


59 


71 


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PAGB 


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Sun- 


37 


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12° 


48 


R.ver-rhe  Mmgan-Lulians  in  chapel-One  of  our  men 
drowned_P.shing-Adayat  sea-Gaspe- 7 V</..a..A.  drh!" 
-Camp.ng  out  on  the  Dartmouth  River-On  the  St    r„hn- 
Not  enough  blankets  !-A  strange  coincidence-l'ercc-Cur 
mghsh-l'aspediac-DalhouMc-Chalham-Newcastle 


CHAPTER    VIII. 
THE  MARITIME   PROVIN'CES. 

July-August,  1873. 

!>,  "'^'"'^'''  ^- ^-—D'Huer  at  (.ovcrnment  House— 
^^^r^,  fecl.ng  McNah-s  Island -Lobster.spearing-,:L, 
DufTerm  s  spec.,  at  the  Club-Rail  i„  .„e  Parliament  Build- 
ngs-Rall  on  H  M.  S.  AV,./ .///../-Industrial  homes-Hay 
of  Fundy-St.  John.  N.  B.-Hotel  life-Toreh-light  proces! 
s.on-I3all  .n  the  theatre- Voyage  „p  the  St.  John  River- 
l  rcdencton-Woodstock-Grand  Falls-Tadousac 


XI 


PACK 


83 


lor 


59 


.•a<|- 


71 


CHAPTER   IX. 

THE   FALL. 
Skptemher-Dkcemiier,  1873. 
Bathing  at  Tadousac-Quebec-Miss  Florence  Lees-Foo.ball- 


ona   Races- 


Convents-Paper  chase-Visitors-The  Hladac., 
Pall  at  the  Citadel-Montreal-O.tawn-Debate  on  the  ad- 
clress-Resignal.on  of  Sir  John  Macdonald's  cabinet-Curl 
>ng-Mr.  Mackenzie,  the  new  Premier-Christmas        . 

CHAPTER   X. 
OUR  SECOND  SEASON   AT  OTTAWA. 

Januarv-Ju'       S74. 
The  New  Year's  reccption-Tableflu.-Only  ,0^  of  frost  --The 
i"Bti.ut.onsofOttawa-An  ice  storm-Concert-Montreal- 


123 


4l*j 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


137 


CHAPTER    XI. 

FISHING   ON   THE  ST.   LAWRENCE. 

JLNE-Ju-LY,    1874. 

Quebec-Gaspe-Mr.  Reynolds's  can.p  on  the  York  Riv.r    n 

•     •     •     -^56 

CHAPTER    XH. 
ONTARIO   AND   THE   LAKES. 
JULY-.SEPTEMIii:R,    1874 

Trois   Riviires-Toronto-Rival    hotels-Nowmarket     R      • 
Lake  Simcoe-The    Narrows.-Orilli;4"hh^. "'''■''" 
-Muskoka  Lake-Bracebridge4  „  "7  n        '"^    ''"''"^^ 

Parry  Sound-CollingwoodJSw'n    s" un  \'Z"~^'''''''- 
<iians_SauIt    Ste    Marie     M.VI  '^"""^-^LinUouIin  I„. 

a.e-Ca.npin,o.-;::^;:;r-;;;^;j;:fo^  po... 
thur's    Landing-Indians    1/  c;h  1       ,    '"^'^'-I  "nee  Ar- 

Kiver-r.ake  ?,iehi^rci:^^  :^«-:t'r^'^ 
House-Reception  at  ti.e  Exehanee-Thr  ,  ,  "'•"" 
shops-Dctroit-Sarnia-I  akrT  'r'''^'''^^'-^-T''e 
works_Stratfo,d-r^  1  h  L-  ""•"""-C^^^'erich-Salt 
Brantford-Tle  sTx  N  f  ~^>r  ^^^«^P'--"'«  Home- 
-Woodstoek^il.!!;^:^ ^,^^^  ^Wn.  .r. 
•Swing   hridire   ovrr   H„.    v  •  ""coe— .St.  Catherine's— 

riumt'sho'se-Toro     ,  ^^'Tn  J'^'^^-T'-  Falls-A,, 

-Whitby-Port  nZr  7. '"         .'"""'"'^  ^'""^''  ■'''  "'^  ^•■•"> 
Palrner'sDe  f    nd    W        7~'""'"''''^-"^"-''''^-nr. 

i'eai  and  Dumb  Institution— Kinirston—H,n,.i     n 
—Home  again  a    Ottawa  "^'ngston— Uiockville 

•         •••...  170 


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PAGE 


CONTENTS, 


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CHAPTER   XIII. 

WINTER   AND   SPRING. 
Septemiier,  i874-M.\y,  1875. 
The  Dominion  Rifle  Match-New  Vork-The  theatres  and  parks 
-Lntertainments-Drive  to '<  Sleepy  Hollow  "-Lord  Duf 
.enn  goes  to  Washington-The  Normal  School-Nieht  jour- 
ney  to  Boston-Longfellow's  house -Club  dinner- \   Uni 
yersalist   Church-Return   to  Ottawa-The   steeple  chase- 

r'",°[!^^"  ''''"'  ^'^''^""'''^  Day-Chil.lren-s  tableaux- 
Lord  DufTenn  s  visit  to  Montreal-Curling- Debate  on  Kiel 
-B.rth  and  Christening  of  a  son-Home  on  short  leave- 
Delayed  by  ice  and  foL'  . 

«' 217 

CHAPTER    XIV. 
AN   UNEVENTFUL    SEASON. 

October,  i875-jri,v,  1876. 

R.  M.  S   /'/•;m/««-Ottawa-.Skating-A  rainy  Christmas  Day- 

-Plays-Married  w.  Bachelors-Montreal-Ottawa-Open, 
ing  of  Parhament-Fancy  dress  balls-Theatricals-Ice  block 
on  the  R.deau-Expedition  up  the  Le  U^vre-Quebec-After 
the  fire-Lord  Dufferin's  speech-Procession  of  Jean  Pnptiste 
-Gaspe-F.shmg  on  the  York  River-Archie's  birthdav- 
His  departure  for  school -Ottawa- Preparations  for  'the 
Orand  I  our     . 

•         ■  235 

CHAPTER   XV. 

ACROSS   THE   CONTINENT   AND   ALONG  THE   PACIFIC  COAST. 

August-Septemher,  1S76. 
Our  special  train-A  reporte.  and  his  request-Five  o'clock  tea 
-Ch.cago-Omaha-The  Platte  Valley-The  Rocky  Plains 
-Cheyenne-l  he  Alkali  Plains-The  Rocky  Mountains- 
Ogden-Cape  Hern-Traveling  with  a  murderer-San  Fran- 
Z,T~ll"  ^'■"'."""^^-'^  Killyle.agh  friend-ir.  M.  S.  Am,-. 
%'x/--The  Pac.fic-Esquimault-Victoria-Party  feeling- 
Husy  days-~Our  Chinese  cook  and  his  wife-Recatta-N^ 
naimo-Bute   Inlet-Sal.  .y   Harbor-Metlacatlah-Succcss- 


••f 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


heavy  mail     °"«  "''»"''»-Al=rt  IJa,_B„„ard'.  I„ta_A 


PACB 


257 


CHAPTER   XVI 

BKITISH  COLUMmA.  CAL.KOKNIA.  ANB   SALT  LAKE  CITV. 
SEPTKMIiER-OCTODER,   1876 

A  forest  giant-New  Westminster— A  .nn. -i,  • 

The  Fraser  River-Yale-Holl^  r  T  ""'"^  '""Kues- 

Lytton-rndian;r;ve-MrSr  ;  ;,t~K      /"'""  '^^^°"- 

Wow-.-r>ownth'eTho.ps;'r    !i-t:^^^^^^^^ 
—Strange  servants— 15ill     P.     •        ^e'"0"s"i>ve— Victoria 
day-At  s^a-S,n  V  "'*'.'-^^^l"""-'^""~r>ry  <lock-A  busy 
""y    At  .s.a— ban  Francisco— Good-bv  to  H   M   c    ^     ., 
-A  -Frisco  merchants  country  house     A  r    ,  r'  '^'/"f ^•>'^' 
Giving  names-The  Thin        ?u  Cahfom.an  ball- 

fa  names— ine  Chinese  theatre— Toss  Hou^p     Tl,„ 
turnjourney— Salt  Lalcf.r;»v     \s  J"^s  "ouse— The  re- 

Deaver-IIotel  r  ^'•y-^^"™°»«"cicty-Cheyen„e- 

Hotel  manners-Oregon  Bill-St.  Louis-Toronto.  2,3 

CHAPTER   XVH. 

OUR   FIFTH    WINTER   AND   SUMMER   IN  CANADA. 

October,  1876-JuLY,  1877. 

Toronto-Lord  Dun-erin  starts  for  Philadelphia-Montreal-Otta- 

tWHe?"^!     ?«""■"?"  ''^'"'■'  '''^  service-Christmas  fes- 

lyities-Toionto-Speeches-Ottawa-Theatricals-Presen- 

tation  by.he  cai,men-Procession  in  honor  of  Pope  Leo  XUT 

~D.^..ngu.shed   v:sitois-Quebec-In  camp-Fishing- r.: 

CHAPTER    XVHL 

THE   i^ORTH-WEST. 

At'Gl'ST,    1R77. 

■n  '^r    -St.  T^aul-Minneapolis-Minnehaha  Falls-Across 

^\;:T~:^^'  River-Greetings  on  the  way:!::^:: 
I.vi.-ti.'  i  I'.r  r  '7- '"  ^'""'P<^R-"*  Silver  Heights  "-An 
«'>^'"  ^  ..lea  of  rdig    a-St.  Boniface-The  Hudson'.  Bay 


*) . 


COXTKXrs. 


PACB 


257 


jH 


store-Lassoing-Sioux  Indians-J3all  at  Winnipeg-A  Red 


XV 


P.AGK 


tie  Stone  Fort — Selkirk- Tv,^   i«  i- 

"ii     .Selkirk— X  he  Indian  reserve— Winniiieir— 

SrTSnr'"''"""""^  -t,len.ent-A  .en,ber  of  the  ,1. 


•  338 


CHAPTKR    XIX. 

MANITOHA. 

August-October,  is-'y 

camp-On    the    Dawson    route-A     "cordun,y"    road-The 
North-VVest  Angle-Lake  of  the  Woods-CaLeing  on  th 
W  n^peg  R.,er     The  White  Dog  Mission-Portao's-k 
fs~r/  7^^     -r?'"-^"   I"'iian  grave-Lake  Winnineg- 
"-^■CM-U,,  Saskatchewan-The  first   railway    n  the 
Norh-Uest-Flour^S  a  bag --Stone  Fort-Gimla   thTl  e 
land.c  settle„,ent-VVinnipeg-An   Indian    "  Lore'"-Lake" 

llr^^t  :;t"T;"^::'^^"^^  '-  PraiHe-?rodut 
lana— Want  of  good  dnnking-water-Silver   Ifoml,.       tu 

.  366 

CHAPTER    XX. 

OUR   LAST    SEASON    AT   ott  ^  «r . 

'^^uiN    Al    OTTAWA    AND    MONTREAL. 

October,  1877-jtJNE,  1378. 
Earthquake-Christmas   visitors-Pa.l    accidonf     T  . 

-Visit  to  Montreal-The  Windsor  it:^HeS^ 

st.tution-Villa    Maria    Convent-Ball-McGill     r^' 
Military  display  at  the  theatre-Conva  ,  of  he  sl  T~ 

-Mount  Royal  Park-Farewell  dirner-^he  I;    wl    .'"' 

r-ircweii    acidress   from   both   Housp«  nf  i>    r 

Pita..  Mont::al-^  j:::?--:;^::^^:;^^-"'  "- 

Ottawa-The  children  leave  fur  Lngia'nd  '         "'       '' 

**  •       •       •        '399 


*Ji 


PAGE 


XVI  CONTEXTS. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 
THE   EASTERN   TOWNSHII'S.  AM)    LAST   DAYS    IN   CANADA. 
JlNK-AU(UJST,  1878. 

Gaspe-"  Tinker  "-Riots  at  Qi.ebec-Our  rooms  occupied  by 
soldiers-Island  of  Orleans-Farewell  address  from  the  gue- 
bee  Parliament— Visit  to  Hoston-A  New  England  home- 
A  literary  dinner  parly- Lord  DulTerin  takes  his  <ugrec  at  the 
Harvard  University— I  ongfellow— Mr.  Adams-guebee-A 
fcg  on  the  St.  I.awrencc-FishiiiK  on  the  Metapcdiac-Run 
to  Campliel!  Town-Kininuski-Hic-Fisliing-I.ast  visit  to 
ladousac-The  12th  of  J„ly-The  Maine  Press  Assoeiatioi, 
— Sillery— The  Roman  Catholic  bishops— Sir  Edward  Thorn- 
ton's  visit— Theatricals  on  the  Island  of  Orleans— The  Mont- 
niorency  Falls-Expedition  to  the  Ciiaudit^re  Falls— Danville 
— Sherbrooko— LennoxviJic— Eake  Massiwippi—Compton— 
Stanslead— Lake  MemphremagoR-MaRO(r—nolton— Water- 
loo-Granby— St.  Jolin's-I.ake  Champlain-Lake  George- 
Juvenile  coachman  at  Fort  I  Icnry-Good-by  .         .         .  .jg 

I...K1.  I)t'i.|.ERiN'.s  Last  Days  in  Canada       .        .        .       .  ^50 

Index    

453 


PAGE 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


1872-1878. 


419 
450 

453 


CIIAl'TKR    I. 

ARRIVAI,    IN    CANADA. 

U»(    !    horrul!     Very  nu„.h;  everybody  ill  c^^cem    the 
wretched  baby.  Hasil,  who  is  perfectly  well,  but  can  ^ 
no  <.ne  to  dress  him.  and  is  handed  about,  unwashed,  to 
cnKMU-ers.  waiters,  to  any  one  who  can  stand 

.JW,/r.  /;//..--Thc  ship  rollin^r  f^.m  side  to  side  till 
one  s  back  aches.     Such  a  noise  of  splashin.^  an.l  dash 
n^K  and     alhn,  about,  and  such  fears  lest  n>y  infants 
should  follow  the  exan.ple  of  my  toothbrush.  Ll  c  me 
fly.n,  across  the  roon. !     To  add  to  mv  fears  tw,  stee  ! 

whether  he  thought  there  was  any  danger,  and  if  the 
capta,n  m.ght  not  he  asked  to  put  inu.  por;  t.ntil  Z 
came  calmer  In  the  morning  these  men  were  found 
sleepu)).!  with  life-I)elts  on. 

ir,:/„r.u/ay,  /p,M. -We  are  nun  I,  better  now.  and  „uite 
-^|y  our  meals,  which  I),  and  I  have  in  a  cabin  by :;::;! 

We  are  also  able  to  look  about,  and  f.n.l  that  there 
are  .07  "^street  Arabs  "  o„  board,  brought  out  by  a  Ilu 


MY  CANADIAX  JOURNAL. 


CH.  I 


of  a  woman,  who,  although  very  sick  and  miserable  her- 
self, sings  to  them,  reads  out  loud,  goes  down  into  the 
steerage,  sees  th(  ni  to  l)ed,  and  pcrfornis  many  other  try- 
ing offices  in  the  most  unselfish  manner.  Miss  Mac- 
pherson  pays  her  own  passage  and  expenses.  Each  child 
costs  ^'lo  to  bring  out,  and  will  eventually  be  adopted 
into  a  Canadian  family,  where  it  will  have  a  hapjiy  home. 
This  seems  to  be  an  excellent  charity. 

Suihiay,  2j(L~\  beautiful  day— a  hot  sun  and  a  per- 
fectly calm  sea.  ( )ur  parasols  and  sh.-tdy  hats  have  come 
out  for  the  first  time,  and  Ilermic  and  Masil*  are  being 
made  very  mucii  of  by  the  convalescent  passengers. 
Preparations  are  making  for  our  arrival  at  (Quebec;  and, 
as  it  has  been  discovered  that  there  is  no  Canadian  flag 
on  board,  my  maid,  Nfrs.  Dent,  is  busily  engaged  in  try- 
ing to  manufacture  one.  Nobody  is  (piite  sure  what  it 
is,  but  all  sup|)ose  that  there  must  be  a  beaver  and  a 
maple-leaf  in  it.  J  sincerely  hope  that  no  great  herald 
will  l)e  waiting  to  receive  us. 

We  have  attended  a  meeting  in  the  steerage,  where 
some  of  the  Canadian  passengers  talked  to  the  emigrants 
about  the  cdiintry  they  are  going  to.  I ),  also  si)okc,  and 
told  them  that  in  Canada  they  need  never  complain,  as 
he  had  heard  one  of  tluin  do,  "that  he  had  too  many 
children,"  for  that  there  the  more  they  had  the  better. 
An  enthusiastic  young  man  on  hearing  this  slapjied  I), 
on  the  back  and  said,  •'  'I'hut  is  just  what  I  have  been 
telling  Kmily." 

{)iti'/>,r  :  Tni'sih\\  jj;f/i.—A  lovely  morning.  We  anch- 
ored early,  but  did  not  land  till  ten,  when  the  Minis- 
ters, I.ieutenant-Covernor,  and  several  other  officials, 
came  on  board,  and  with  them  we  went  ashore,  A  salute 
was  fired  from  the  citadel  as  I),  stepped  on  land,  and  we 


•  My  youngeitt  children. 


CH.  I 

icrable  hcr- 
rtii  into  the 
y  other  try- 
Miss  Mac- 
Each  child 
)c  adopted 
ippy  home;. 

and  a  pcr- 
have  come 
'  arc  hcinj^ 
)asscnjfers. 
cbec ;  and, 
ladian  (lajj 
^cd  in  try- 
re  wiiat  it 
ver  and  a 
cat  herald 

i^e,  where 
cmiirraiUs 
spoke,  and 
mplain,  as 
too  many 
hi!  better, 
lapped  I), 
liavc  been 

We  anch- 

he  Minis- 

'   oflficials, 

A  salute 

(I,  and  we 


JUNE  1872  A/^R/VAL  AT  QUEBEC  AXD   OTTAiyA.  % 

walked  through  lines  of  troops  to  a  carriagc-and-four,  in 
which  we  drove  to  Spencer  Wood,  the  I.ieutenant-(;ov- 
ernor's  residence.     We  passed  through  (Quebec,  up  a  very 
steep  hill.     The  road  was  rough,  a.id  it  was  extremely  hot 
and  dusty.      I  could  not  see  the  view  as  we  were  driving 
away  from  the  river,  and  also,  I  was  much  occupied  in 
looking  at  the  people  who  filled  the  streets;  but  when 
we  got  to  Spencer  Wood  we  were  charmed  with  it.  and  it 
looks    right    down    upon    the    St.   Lawrence.     At    three 
o'clock  I),  was  sworn  in  as  (lovernor-Ckneral  of  Canada 
and  received  some  addresses  of  welcome,— but,  as  I  re-' 
mained  (piiet  in  my  country  retreat.  I  can  tell  vou  noth- 
lug  of  the  ceremony.     Our  host  is  Sir  Narcisse'  Jielleau  • 
Ins  wife  is  a  nice  .piiet   little   Erenchwoman.  and  he  is 
pleasant  and  kind.      Ihere  was  a  dinner  in  the  evening  _ 
but  1  dont  feel  that  I  have  seen  enough  of  any  of  the 
guests  t..  tell  you   about  them  to-dav.  except  that  the 
I'rime  Minister,  Sir  John   Macdonald,  is  the   image  of 
Dizzy. 

mufnvsday,  ^^M.-'I'he  papers  give  a  most  amusing 
description  of  I).,  stating  his  apparent  weight  and  height 
I  ant  very  flatteringly  described,  though  the  ignorant 
male  writer  speaks  slightingly  of  my  dress  as  being  a 
"plan,  blue  silk,"  whereas  it  was  in  reality  excessively 
smart,  and  had  cau.sed  me  infinite  trouble  and  anviety  » 
Ib.wever.  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  from  l.ady 
Il.irriet  Kletcher  *  that  the  ladies  knew  better,  and  had 
appreciated  it. 

Lady  Harriet  and  I  had  a  drive  about  the  old  town 
and  r  was  (piite  delighted  with  it.     The  views  are  per- 
fntly  lovely,  and  it  w.Mild  be  su,  h  a  charming  place  to 
lue  in,— if  only  we  had  a  house  here  ! 


*  IiauKiiitr  of  the  Enrl  of  Komnuy,  wifu  of  I,„rU  Duflcrin's  MilU 
tary  nccrelary, 


MY  CANADIAN  /OURNAL. 


CH.  I 


In  the  afternoon  we  started  fur  Ottawa  in  a  magnifi- 
cent river-steamer  witii  four  stories  and  streets  of  cab- 
ins, and  a  grand  table  a'/idtc  on  board.  We  sat  on  deck 
and  enjoyed  ourselves  immensely  as  we  went  up  the  St. 
Lawrence.  1  can  not  tell  you  what  a  lovely  voyage  this 
was'— so  lovely  that  I  can  ncU  beh  ve  that  we  did  it  of 
necessity,  and  not  for  pleasure  only. 

T/iiiisday,  2yili.—\\Q  arrived  at  Ottawa,  the  first  view 
of  which  is  magnificent  ;  l)ut  once  landed  there  was  no 
time  to  look  at  anything  !     There  were  nine  addresses 
to  l)e   listened  to,  antl  after   them   we  drove  off  to  our 
new    home!  .  .  .  We    have    been   so   very   enthusiastic 
about  everything  hitherto  that  the  first  sight  of  Rideau 
Hall  did  lower  our  spirits  just  a  little!     'J'he  road  to  it 
is  rough  and  ugly,  the  h()use  api)ears  to  me  to  be  at  the 
land's  end,  and  there  is  no  view  whatever  from  it,  though 
it  is  near  the  river— and  we  have  come  through  hundreds 
of  miles  of  splendid  scenery  to  get  to  it !     Then   I   have 
never  lived  in  a  (iovernnunt  House  before,  and  the  in- 
evitable  bare  tables  and  ornameniless  raoms  have  a  de- 
pressing effect :  for  the  first  time  I  realize  that  I  have 
left  my  own  home  for  many  years.-and  this  is  its  sub- 
stitiite! 

/V/./r/v,  -JiW/.—l'lcase  forget  the  ahf)ve  growl.     The 
morning    has  brought   m  )re    cheerlul    rellections.      We 
are  not  intended  to  live  here  at  midsummer,  and  I  dare 
say  that  in  winter  this  place  looks  lovely  !    Our  hou.se 
is,  they  say,  very  warm  and  comfortable,  and  the  Houses 
of  I'arliament— which,  after  all.  I  do  see  from  my  win- 
dows-are very   beautiful.      And    I    can    cover    up   the 
tables  and   supply  the  homey  look  which  at  present  is 
wanting-so   why  did    I  grumble  ?     ^\•e  have  driven  in 
state  through  the  town,  and  have  visited  the  (iovern- 
inent  buildings.     1  was  (U-lighted  with   the  Senate,  and 
With  the  Library-a  iiiige,  circular  room.     When   the 


CH.  I 

a  magnifi- 
cts  of  cah- 
iat  on  deck 

u])  the  St. 
•oyaj(e  this 
ic  did  it  of 

e  first  view 
re  was  IK) 
addresses 
off  to  our 
Uhiisiastic 
of  Rideau 
road  to  it 
>  he  at  the 
it,  thoujfh 
I  liundreds 
ill   I   have 
id  the  in- 
ave  a  de- 
at  I  have 
is  its  sub- 

)wl.  The 
His.  \V'c 
id  I  dare 
'iir  house 
le  Houses 

my  win- 
r  up  the 
ircseiit  irt 
[Iriveii  in 

( lovern- 
late,  and 

lien    the 


JULY  i£72         HOUSEHOLD  ARRANGEMENTS.  m 

House  is  sitting  I  may  come  and  Usten  to  debates,  but 
the  Governor-Cleneral  may  not ! 

The  weather  is  extremely  hot,  and  we  are  not  going 
to  remain  here.  1).  goes  to-morrow  to  insjiect  militia  at 
I'rescott,  and  I  meet  him  there  two  days  later. 

Monday,  July  yst.—Wa  went  for  a  row  on  the  river 
in  the  evening,  which  was  delicious.  It  was  very  pretty  ; 
and  we  had  a  breath  (jf  fresh  air,  and  got  out  of  a  per- 
spiration for  the  first  time  for  a  week  ' 

We  have  been  busy  making  a  number  of  household 
arrangements.  I  have  chosen  my  nurseries  ;  and  it  has 
been  decided  to  add  a  story  to  the  little  house  in  the 
garden  in  which  the  Fletchers  willlive,— for  they  hav  j 
a  numl)er  of  children  too.  The  non-arrival  of  all  our 
heavy  luggage  has  been  an  an.xiety  ;  so  far  our  vicere- 
gal establishment  possesses  about  six  plates  and  as  many 
cracked  teacups;  and  our  own  siijiply  of  china,  plate, 
Olid  linen  seems  to  lie  trying  to  see  the  country,  and  to 
travel  for  pleasure,  instead  of  coming  and  settling  down 
here  as  it  should, 

Perhaps  you  may  wonder  wiiere  my  :nil(Iren  are  all 
this  time.  The  three  elder  ones  are  still  in  Europe,  try. 
mg  to  learn  a  little  French,  and  Hermioiie  and  Basil, 
who  came  out  with  us,  are  now  at  Riviere  du  I.oup,' 
where  we  have  taken  a  house  for  the  summer.  'Ihere' 
also,  are  the  Fletcher  children.  Colonel*  and  Lady 
Harriet  Fletcher  came  out  to  Canada  the  mail  before  we 
did,  and  made  all  arrangements  f<.r  us  and  for  them- 
selves.  He  is  the  Military  Secretarv.  We  have  two 
very  nice  \.  D.C.s  at  present.  One  of  them  was  with 
Fnrd  I.isgar.  and  has  kindly  volunteered  to  sfav  and 
iH'lp  us  tor  a  time.  The  other  is  Mr.  Coulson.  who  Ih 
regularly  appointed,  and  whr,  will   remain   even   after 


The  late  Coloiu-I  FIticher,  C.  M.U..  Scotn  Funilier  GuanU. 


6  MY  CANADIAX  JOURNAL.  CH.  I 

I'Vecl  comes  out      Please  tell  the  latter  that  I  f.nd  that 

an  A.  I).       ,s  a  charm.n^r  institution.     These  two  ask  me 

'f       will  dr.ve,     "or  walk,"  "or  boat,"  or  "if  I   want 

anything  from  the  town-;  and  if  I  turn  mv  head   thcv 

nd  out  what  I  am  boking  for,  and  get  it  'for  mJ.     So 
red  need  rot  hope  to  get  off  any  of  his  duties  through 
my  Ignorance  of  tliem  !  *" 

trv  In/.M"'"'^'  ^''T^'  ''V  ■'  '""''■'  ^''^'^^'"  ^^'^'^  '^^^  ^^>"n- 

i  thn)k  that  I  am  getting  on  pretty  well  too.-though  I 

s.yu  that  should  be  silent  in  the  matter;  and  the  pa! 
I'ers,  who  talk  about  us  a  good  deal,  lay  great  stress  on 
my  not  bemg  affected-a  negative  virtue  which  I  may 
mention  without  appearing  too  conceited  ' 

My  attentive  A.  I).  C.s  have  taken  me  to  see  the  Chau- 

c  tre  I-ail.     It  ,s  close  to  Ottawa,  and  is  verv  beautiful, 

here  is  a  massif  water  which  appears  to  fall  in  three 

cl.flcrent    directions    into   the   same   pool,  and  a   great 

moke  ooam  rises  from  the  splash;  it  looks  jus 'like 
a  K^  caldron.     (Mose  to  it  is  a  saw-mill.     Thi  trunks 
fo.est-trees  are  carried  by  the  strean>  to  the  door  of 
'c  mil.   where  they  are  caught  by  chains  and  slowly 
<''a«RC(l  into  the  teeth  of  a  bundle  of  saws.     After  ,)-,ss 
2  through   these,  the    trees   fall    in    planks,  which  arj 
M'"  Uy  taken  up  by  an,.ther  machine  to  have  their  sides 
"c-atly, rimmed.     As  they  pass,  a  man  marks  them  with 
a  pencil  according  to  their  tpiality. 

After  this  we  "  ran  the  sliue."  which  was  very  excit- 
'"R.     I  he  "slide  "  is  a  long  incline  of  water,  divided  i... 

I>  Himh  the  timber  Irom  the  higher  levels  is  brought 
clown  mto  the  St.  Lawrence.    The  wood  is  made  up  ,n,o 

MS.UUI  yon  sit  upon  these  while  they  slip  down  the 
'"clme.  It  looks  rather  alarming  to  see  one  of  th.^e 
great  monsters  g,.  headlong  into  the  water  at  the  fJot 


CH.  I 


Jl'I.Y  1872 


RUNNIXG    THE  KAPIDS. 


I  find  that 
wo  ask  me 
'if  I  want 
liead,  tliey 
T  me.  So 
es  through 

the  conn- 
with  him. 
-though  I 
nd  the  pa- 
stress  on 
ich  I  may 

the  Chaii- 
beaiitifiil, 
in  three 
I  a  great 
just  like 
le  trunks 
e  door  of 
d  slowly 
ter  pass- 
'liich  are 
leir  sides 
lem  with 

ry  excit- 
I'icled  in- 

ial  road 
brouglit 

lip  into 
)wn  the 
L>f  the«e 
he  foot 


of  each  fall  ;  but,  although  I  got  on  board  with  my  heart 
in  my  mouth,  I  liked  it  extremely,  and  when  I  found  my- 
self safe  on  the  calm  level  of  the  Ottawa,  1  would  gladly 
have  reconunenced  the  journey  had  it  been  possible:  but 
when  one  has  slid  down  this  steej)  hill  of  water  to  the 
river,  one  is  miles  away  from  the  starting-point,  and  has 
to  go  home  another  way.  'I'he  rafts  and  the  <|uantities 
of  wood  lying  about  in  all  directions  are  the  most  curi- 
ous sights  liere.  but  I  see  no  really  fine  timber  growing 
in  this  neighborhood. 

U'ednesi/ay,  jti.  —  \  left  Ottawa  early,  and  met  I),  at 
Prescott.  He  had  been  inspecting  volunteer  cami)s  at 
Kingston  and  l'resc(Jtt,  and  is  to  see  another  at  I.ajjrai- 
rie  to-morrow. 

We   shot   the  rapids.     The   rajiids    are   places  wiiere 
there  is  a  tremendous  stream  rushing  over  a  rocky  de- 
scent.    When  the  steamer  comes  to  them  the  engine  is 
stopped,   and    the  current   carries   the   vessel   over   the 
broken  water  at  a  great  rale.     Jf  the  pilot  were  to  make 
a  mistake,  or  to  lose  command  of  the  ship,  she  would  be 
wrecked.     The  rapids  look  like  a  stormy  sea,  but  you  do 
not  go  up  and  down  in  them,  and  rather  feel  as  though 
the  vessel  were  being  buffeted  about,  and  as  if  it  were 
striking  some  hard  substance.     The  worst  rapid  is  called 
the  "  Lachine,"and  that  does  look  rather  alarming.    The 
rapids  are  all  down  hill,  and  going  at  such  a  great  pace 
the  |)il()t*  appears  to   be  steering  straight  upon  some 
fearful  rock,  peeping  above  water,  when  just  as  you  ex- 
pect the  crash,  the  stream  takes  the  vessel  and  carries 
her  clear  of  the  danger. 

We  were  met  at  Montreal  by  the  Mayor  and  a  guard 
of  honor. 


•  The  pilot  on  thi. occasion  was  "Old  B.rpliMc,"  who  took  lu.l.mn 
a  channel  he  hail  himself  firnt  found  in  1843. 


8 


M  Y  CAN  A  DIAN  JO  URXAL. 


err.  I 

Quebec :  FrUay,  s^/r-l  saw  a  little  of  Montreal  yes- 
terday, but  not  enon^.h  to  warrant  a  description      We 
went  to  a  little  country  place,  where  we  had  strawber- 
ries and  cream  under  the  trees,  and  when  I  returned  to 
the  hotel  I   received  visitors.     I  f.nd  Canadian  society 
very  easy  to  ^r^t  on  with:  the  people  talk,  and  they  .-.re 
very  simple  and  natural,  and  wiling  to  be  pleased;  so 
tha     receiving    seventy   or    eighty    total    strangers    is 
made    a   pleasant    instead  of   an    arduous   task,-as   i 
might  be.  ' 

I),  was  occupied  all  day  inspecting  a  camp,  and  in 
receiving  addresses.  i »     'u  m 

VVe  dined  early,  and  went  on  board  the  steamer  for 
Quebec.  here  were  800  passengers,  most  of  them  lying 
about  on  the  lloors;  but  we  had  comfortable  cabins  and 
s  ept  well  all  n.ght.  The  only  new  things  we  l::!! 
this  journey  were  the  f.re-flies;  they  were  so  numerous 
on  the  wooded  banks  of  the  river  that  their  lights  looked 
like  those  of  a  distant  town. 

_S-./.;v/.,,  ^//,__The  Governor-General  has  some  of 
h^  privileges  of  the  old  kings  of  France,  and  one  of 
them  IS  that  he  has  the  right  to  enter  the  cloistered  con- 
vents,     n  his  train,  therefore,  we  have  been  to  the  Ursu- 
n^sand  to  the  Hotel-Dieu.     The  Vicar-General  went 
with  us,  and  at  each  convent,  after  inspecting  the  ordi- 
nary arrangements  of  the  house,  we  went  into  a  room 
where  the  nuns  were  arranged  in  rows,  and  where  we 
sat  on  thrones  on  a  dais.     In  a  clever,  easy  way  the 
War  inaugurate  a  kind  of  general  conver.sa'tion  about 
e  convent,  and  the  nuns  laughed  at  hi.  little  jokes 
and  answered   any  (,uestions  put   to   them.      We  were 
Kreatly  struck  by  their  manners,  so  pleasant  and  cl'x-! 
ful.  without  the  slightest  affectation  or  shyness 

mof:;:t.r-r;r'7;T''^'^''^'"^^^""^- 

■         -     ^^"^  '"  fhc  7)o„»//ess,  n  thirty-six- 


I 


« 


-J- 


CII.  I 

)ntreal  yes- 
ption.  We 
1  strawber- 
fturned  to 
ian  society 
d  they  are 
•leased  ;  so 
•angers  is 
isi<, — as    it 

np,  and  in 

:eamer  for 
liem  lying 
abins,  and 
/e  saw  on 

numerous 
>ts  looked 

some  of 
d  one  of 
ered  con- 
llie  Ursu- 
!ral  vvent 
the  ordi- 

a  room 
vhcre  we 
way  the 
)n  about 
e  jokes, 
Ve  were 
d  ciieer- 

L"  Mont- 
irty-six- 


JULY  1872 


THE   •  •  DA  UN TLESS." 


ton  yacht  which  he  has  bought,  and  we  rowed  in  a  big 
boat.  The  fall  is  six  miles  from  Quebec.  The  day  was 
very  fine,  and  as  we  saw  them  from  the  river  the  shin- 
ing tin  roofs  of  the  town  looked  beautiful  in  the  sun- 
shine. 

The  first  view  of  the  fall  is  spoiled  by  the  quantity 
of  timber  at  its  base.  The  bay  is  crammed  with  stacks 
of  boards  and  wood,  piled  up  in  every  way,  and  there  are 
saw-mills  hard  at  work  ;  but  when  you  get  close  enough 
to  see  it,  the  Montmorency  is  really  beautiful.  It  is  170 
feet  high— higher  than  Niagara-and  it  falls  perfectly 
straight  down  into  the  earth,  clouds  of  .spray  rising  up 
m  front  of  it.  The  water  does  not  appear  to  rush  on  as 
in  most  waterfalls,  and  it  is  supposed  that  it  dives  into 
the  ground,  and  comes  out  elsewhere. 

We  had  brought  provisions  with  us,  so  we  lighted  a 
fire,  cooked  an  excellent  lunch,  and  afterward  made  tea. 
In  the  cool  of  the  evening  we  rowed  back  to  Quebec, 
and  got  on  board  the  steamer  for  Riviere  du"l,oup' 
This  is  the  fashionable  time  for  going  to  the  seaside,  so 
the  boats  are  very  full. 

Jiivih-cdu  Loup :  Tuesday,  gth.—Qwx  house  here  is  a 
nice  little  cottage,  but  it  is  a  long  way  from  the  sea,  and 
I  don't  think  that  we  shall  care  to  shut  ourselves  uj)  in  it 
for  long.  We  are  imi)atient  to  see  more  of  the  country 
and  the  people,  and  if  only  we  can  find  a  house  at  Que- 
bec we  shall  go  there;  for  the  more  we  sec  of  that  place, 
the  more  we  like  it. 

Wt'ifnesiiay,  /t;///.— After  getting  my  letters  ready 
for  the  mail  we  set  out  for  the  yacht.  Tiie  day  was  not 
very  good,  but  there  was  a  nice  breeze,  and  although  the 
Fletchers  and  I  felt  a  little  una)mfortable  at  first,  we  all 
got  over  it  and  enjoye.'  ourselves  verv  much.  H.  K.  was 
delighted  with  the  J)„,  Jhss.  His  KailurH  are  not  very 
smart,  but  he  is  looking  forward  to  the  arrival  of  Ham- 


I! 


lO 


A/y  CAXADJAX  JOURNAL. 


en.  I 

moml.*  who  will  soon  give  it  the  air  of  an  English 
yackt.  I  he  Dauntless  has  a  well  to  sit  in,  and  a  hu-.^e 
bu  rather  low  cabin.  She  is  one  of  the/./  vachts  wUh 
a  sl.d.nj,  keel.  I),  steered  back  into  the  ha'rhor  before 
a.)  admuuig  crowd  just  arrived  b)-  the  .steamer.  An 
American  on  the  shore  called  out,  "  Well,  Governor  you 
seem  to  be  used  to  this  kind  of  work." 

Thursday,   nt/,.-\)r.  Campbell,   of   Montreal,   came 
here  to  offer  I),  some  salmon-fishin^r.     He  has  acceped 
for   two  days,    and  goes   ne.xt    Wednesday,    the    i Tin- 
Colonel  Fletcher  with  him.     They  will  \\\-^  in  a  c.mp 
and  be  eaten  by  black  Hies  and  moscp.itoes.    The  former 
have  a  sharp  lance,  which  they  insert  under  the  skin 
\ou  do  not  feel  the  bite  at  the  time,  but  it  bleeds  freely 
and   inflames  next  day.     While  fishinjr.   vou   keep  your 
face  and  neck  covered  with  a  preparati.ui  which  the  flies 
chsbke.     I)r  Campbell  ,.ave  an  excitin,:  account  of  the 
r.sh.ng,  and  how  the  f.she  man  runs  along  the  banks  as 
fast  as  he  can,  while  the  .salmon  rushes  down  the  rapids. 
I^thmk  /should  l.ke  to  go  too-but   ladies  are  not  in- 

Saturday,  ,of/,--n.  E.  returned  in  the  evening.  He 
enjoyed  h.s  tr.p  very  much,  though  the  salmo,  were 
scarce    and  he  only  caught  f.ve  trout.     Dr.  Campbell 

party      M,    Urquhart  attended  to  the  dinner,  and  was 

most  anx.ous"  about  it._it  consisted  of  salmon 
c old  beef,  and  was  very  good  ;  still,  it  does  not  sound  a 
If  It  recpured  mimense  thought  and  preparation 

Moudav,  .^,/.-(:,>ionel  Fletcher  has  gone  off  to  see 
houses  at  Quebec.  ^^ 

In  the  afternoon  we  drove  to  Caconna,  a  more  fash- 
lonable  waternig-place  than  this,  where  there  is  a  large 


'  An  Ent^Hsb  --ailor 


ill 


CH.  T 

an  English 
and  a  large 

yachts  with 
iri)or  before 
iamer.  An 
ivcrnor,  you 

treal,   came 
IS  acceii-ed 
the    i7tii — 
in  a  c-'unp, 
riie  former 
r  the  skin, 
eeds  freely 
keep  your 
I'h  the  flies 
)iint  of  the 
'  banks  as 
the  rapids, 
ire  not  in- 

ling.  He 
inoi)  were 
Campbell, 

were  the 
.  and  was 
'mon  and 

soiuid  as 


JCLY  1872 


T A  DO  USA  C. 


ri 


ff  t 


o  see 


ore  fash- 
'  a  large 


hotel  frequented  by  Americans,  who  amuse  themselves 
by  dressing  four  times  a  day. 

IVrdnvsUay,  241/1.— \\  and  I  started  in  the  afternoon 
for  Tadousac.     It  was  quite   dark  when  we  got   there, 
after  two  hours  in  the  steamer,  and  we  could  only  see 
that   we  drove  up  a  most  dangerous  road.      It   was   a 
wooden  ramp,  just  wide  enough  for   the  carriage,  and 
with  a  little  precipice  on  each  side,     i    led  to  the  hotel 
which  we  found   extremely  clean  and  comfortable.     I 
think  they  manage  these  things  very   well    in   Canada 
There  is  a  complete  absence  of  pretense.    The  furniture 
IS  very  plain:  just  a  strip  of  carpet  in  one's  bedroom 
common-looking  French  beds,  washing-stand  and  chest 
of    drawers— no    curtains    anywhere— the    only    lu.xury 
being  extreme  cleanliness.     'J-here  is  a  table  U  Iwtc  where 
all  dine— servants  at  the  same  table  as  the  other  guests 
-and  the  food   is  very  good.     We  had   private  rooms 
and  private  meuls,  but  no  one  else  would  think  of  such  a 
thing.     The  same  simplicity  strikes  me  as  characteristic 
of  the  people.     They  do  not  pn-temi  to  be  fine  or  smart, 
or  anything  but  what  they  are;  they  believe  every  word 
you  say,  and   take  all  polite  exaggerations  an  pld  dc  la 
Icttre.     They  are  exceedingly  friendly  and  kind-hearted, 
so  that  their  saying  what  they  think   does  not  lead  to' 
any  uncomfortable  s|)ee(-hes. 

Tadousac  is  the  oldest,  but  I  should  think  the  smallest, 
place  in  the  Dominion.  Not  only  as  tourists,  but  as 
sailors,  we  are  delighted  with  it.  The  hotel  is  situ- 
ated in  the  curve  of  a  lovely  bay,  with  a  nice  sandy 
beach  all  round  it.  There  are  rocky  walks  of  a  most 
amusing  description  for  the  walker,  a  good  anchorage 
for  the  yachtsman,  and  as  all  the  fishing  is  up  the 
Saguenay,  and  this  place  is  at  its  mouth,  there  is  sport 
for  the  sportsman.  There  are  white  porpoises  and  seals, 
and  occasional  whales  to  be  seen  rolling  and  jumping 


12 


^fV  CAA^AD/AN  JOURNAL. 


CH   I 

forthel'lr'         '■■  "'^"'  "'  """^"'S  ^  '--  here 

fo^d,  a  rcsi<lc„  , .  ,  wl,  ',"  "'  '""  '""""  '"'■  ^a^^ 
.0  the  flsl,ing-g„  :J  " ';f  'T'""  '°  '■■'"P-""  "^ 
searted  never.he  e  s  in  tL       ',      f  "'°  ^"'™'>-'  l^"'  ^^ 

^''oa-  We  „ad"r:,;r;  >:^:;'  "';,"e:::',^>- '»"  ™- 

luok  at,  and  white  Dornn\..  ^beautiful   coast  to 

wa.er  .o  a™„.e  „:.  '  u'    '^e  ^e.^ed  T'T"'  '"  '"= 
anCored,  and  wen,  on  s.,or     o  ,  '„t  ^7'=™"  "= 

I  was  just  being  inslruceed  in  l,e  «,!  ,1,  ''■'"™'''- 
%,  and  was  standnm  „„  i„  ,,,„  ",  "'  "'™»-,ng  ,|,e 
water  wl.„  „,  line,  „t  '  H  g  .^..T"^"-.  '-'-.  .l,e 
koat,  "  Pnt  i,|,  your  rod  and  V  """  ""^  "'her 

The  yaehe  had  dra^g  d  |',er  anch""-"  ""  "'^  '"^  ^'"l'" 
on  the  rocks.     We  gt,t  o    h  '  ''""'  "'"  '"'"  K™"g 

fastened  .ow-rcet        h    ,  ^^^  ^V'^r"^  "  "  """''^ 
"Meulty  got  her  on.  of   l,e     ,  r'n't    J'  ""^  """  '"''' 

f';-^  went.  ..Ho„e,"  said  rk:,?:: ;"''"'•,"'' 

fact  ,t  had  come  on  to  blow  too  hard  Z  fi  ,  '"'"'   '" 
'-...  go  into  deep  water  whe^he    'avl    a^e?'  '"  '"f 

^:trere";tir'x°''nT'^- '-■--; 
i""eh,andse!t,'ed':;.h:;:;;rrg:x^';r^^ 

day  and  try  again.  ^       "^^  "^•''t 

In  the  afternoon   we   took   i   ivnit 

charmed    with    Tadousac.     It    ij  ^  t h  '       "T  ^"''^^ 
Sagiienav  River  md  th.  .    /        r  ^  '""'"^'^   "^   ^he 

above  a  'beautiar,      '"  ol  r  w':,  ""  ^'^".^^^  ''^  -^-' 
it  was  not  too  fatiguin.-  t  I  r  l  '  "*"^''  ^"^  >'^' 


Jl'LY  1872 


THE   SAG  U EN  A  V. 


13 


two   Rice  Lake  canoes,   and    I),  tried   paddling  in  one 
Willie  I  went  out  in  the  other 

tufri^')  "^'''-^"'''"^^'  ^^'  5  A.  M.,  w.th  the  information 
that  the  day  was  very  favorable  for  fishin^r.  ^y^  ,,^,^ 
at  the  wharf  at  six-a  beautiful  morning/ There  were 
two  row-boats  ready  for  us,  and  we  set  off,  up  the  Sa- 
guenay.  ' 

The  river  is  like  a  rift  in  a  rocky  mountain,  and  it 
was  very  pretty  in  the  early  morning  rowing  along  it  • 
.^reat  chffs  on  each  side,  the  river  everv  n,,;  and  then 
spreadmg  out  into  a  bay,  and  looking  like  a  lake  the 
entrance  quite  hidden  by  projecting  n.cks.     We  h^ul  a 
three-hours  row,  and  arrived  at  St.  Etienne.  a  feeding- 
ground  of  the  trout.     I  again  began  to  throw  my  fly 
and  soon  became  .juite  e.xpert  at  it.     I  caught  sixteen 
and  D.  nineteen,  and  after  my  arm  ached  Mr.  Radford' 
took  my^rod  and  caught  four;  so  our  bag  was  a  pretty 

We  lunched  on  the  rocks,  aid  afterward  got  on  board 
and  sailed  nearly  the  whole  way  home  till  it  began  to  rain 
hen  the  wind  fell,  so  we  took  to  our  row-boats  and  got' 
back  in  time  for  dinner.    Our  long  day  was  not  ov7r  v'e 
1  he  young  lad.es  of  Tadousac  had  got  up  a  charity  co^.' 

h  't:  th"  '"""'''  ••  '^  "^^  '"  ''''  '^"^^''  -^1  '-'ween 
the  songs  there  were  some  pretty  M.ru.v.    When  all  was 

sJia .:::  tf  ^° """  ^°  -'^ '-''' '-'  ^^^-^'^  ^  '-^  "^ 

so  early  in  the  morning. 

Sa/,,n/.,j,  ^7//,._Another  lovely  Jay.     We  like  Ta 
donsac  «,  ,„uch  that  we  have  actually  cho.en  a  site  and 
.rego,„g,„b,,il.la„o„de,,  l,„„se  here  for  nex  ^ 
Ihe  a,r  ,s  clel,c,„us,  and  we  feel  «,  well  and  cheerful  ■ 

After  breakfast  we  walked  to  an  Indian  hut  to  see  a 
young  bear  they  had  found  on  the  hills.  He  was  very 
little  and  very  unami.nhlp.ir.oi,;.,„      -,..._   r    ,.  "^ 

lan  women 


are  v 


•ery  dark  and  ugly,  and  have  their  h 


air  tied  up  in 


H 


M  V  CA  XA  DIA  N  JO  URXA  L, 


en  I 


little  bajjs  on  each  side  of  their  faces.  I),  next  took  me 
out  in  a  canoe,  and  wc  had  a  talk  with  tiie  autiiorities 
about  our  site.  At  two  we  yot  on  board  the  steamer, 
and  returned  to  Riviere  du  Loup. 

Coh)nel  and  Lady  Harriet  Fletcher  came  down  to 
meet  us,  and  we  hear  from  him  that  the  artillery  (juar- 
ters  at  Quebec  are  more  likely  to  suit  us  than  any  other 
house  we  can  get  this  year.     1).  will  go  and  see  them. 

Monday,  2(^th. — Directly  after  breakfast  Lady  H.  and 
her  governess  and  children  came  in  to  help  me  to  jirejiare 
for  my  first  Canadian  entertainment !  Unft)rtunately,  I). 
will  not  be  at  it,  as  lie  has  gone  off  to  Quebec.  Of  course 
we  have  small  means  here  of  doing  anything  grand— no 
ornaments  at  all;  thick,  white  earthenware  cups,  lodg- 
ing-house furniture,  etc.,  and  only  wild  tlowers  to  i)e  had. 
With  them  we  determined  to  do  a  great  deal.  We  got 
moss  and  ferns,  wild  roses  and  red  berries;  called  in 
soup-plates,  finger-glasses,  and  bark  canoes;  and  had  in 
the  drawing-room  fourteen  bouipiets — eight  on  brackets 
round  the  walls,  and  one  on  each  table.  Then  we  put 
moss  on  the  chiniiiey-pieie  and  filled  it  with  bright  llow- 
ers,  and  covered  the  board  in  front  of  the  fire|)lace  with 
fir-branches,  etc.  Opposite  the  drawing-room  is  the  best 
bedroom.  We  carried  out  the  bed,  arranged  the  firejilace 
in  the  sanie  way,  and  had  tables  with  tea,  coffee,  iced  milk, 
champagne  cup  anil  cakes  there.  On  one  side  of  our  house 
we  had  croipiet,  and  on  the  other  chairs,  and  I  received 
my  company  at  four  o'clock  in  the  chair  department. 

'l"he  arrangements  took  us  the  whole  morning,  and 
amused  us  very  much;  the  only  drawback  was  that  wc 
luid  no  man,  not  even  an  aide-de-camp! 

Luckily,  the  day  was  splendid.  We  sat  ourselves 
upon  the  lawn,  and  soon  the  first  people  came,  The 
second  carriagi-  which  arrived  ctiiilaiiieil  llii'cc  plif^ls 
with  French  names!    'I'hey  had  no  cards,  und  Nuwcll, 


CM    I 


juiY  1872        M  V  f/A'Sr  EN TER TAINMEN T.  \  5 

our  EiiRlish  servant,  whom  I  liad  tokl  to  be  very  particu- 
lar about  annouiKiMjr  tlie  names  clearly,  rememberinj; 
my  instructions,  and  unable  to  jironounce  them,  stopped 
my  guests  outside  and  made  them  write  their  names  on 
a  piece  of  paper.  One  of  them,  a  very  jolly  Irishman, 
asked,  "  Are  you  His  Excellency's  aiiie-de-camp  ?" 

When  allhad  arrived  a  y;ood  game  of  crcxpiet  was 
got  u]),  and  the  people  who  did  not  play  sat  on  the  lawn 
and  talked.  I  had  over  thirty,  and  they  ailmired  our 
decorations  very  much. 

'I'lie  moment  my  party  broke  up,  and  in  si^lit  of 
many  of  the  visitors,  my  nei.^diliors'  servants  came  to 
fetch  the  things  they  had  lent  me  ;  and  it  was  funny  to 
see  cups  and  soup-plates  and  chairs  being  carried  off  to 
their  lawful  owners.  I  had  asked  people  from  four  to 
si.x,  and,  like  Cinderella,  they  rushed  off  when  the  hour 
struck. 

\\'fi/nest/a\\  j/s/.—  Wq  arrived  at  Tadousac  late  last 
night,  bringing  the  children  with  us.  I  took  them  this 
morning  to  a  sandy  place,  where  they  soon  improvised 
spades  and  began  to  "  make  a  dirt,"  as  llermie  said. 

In  the  afternoon  I.ady  11.  and  1  went  a  drive— the 
only  drive  here.  It  begins  on  a  very  sandy  road,  comes 
to  a  place  where  the  horses  have,  every  few  minules,  to 
walk  down  one  wall  and  up  another,  continues  through 
the  remains  of  a  burned  forest,  where  the  charred  stumps 
of  trees  are  almost  buried  in  the  luxuriant,  fresh  green 
vegetation  springing  up  armmd  them,  and  then  brings 
you  to  a  place  which  is  really  fearful:  one  side  of  the 
road  is  a  steep  precipice,  the  other  a  loose  sandy  hill, 
which  is  constantly  slipping  down  and  filling  up  the  very 
narrow  space  you  have  to  drive  on.  Here  we  got  a 
pretty  peep  of  the  Saguenay,  while  heretofore  we  had 
been  looking  upon  the  Hi.  Lawrentc.  I),  and  the  Colonel 
went  out  boating. 


i6 


My  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CM.  I 

SunJay,  August  4lh.-'n,^  Jay  ^as  f„^rgy  and   riinv 
^.U  we   walk.,   tc.   t.,c   lutle  du.rC.  whu ^'  ,r    ,  1  ":' 

>    m.ule  ,.f  wood,  just  as  y.n.  w<n.ld  make  „„e  w  th  . 

of  Nood.  p.lcd  „nc'  upon   the  other.     It  is  very  m.-iint 
-.1   s.mple.     The  service   at    Tadousae    dep^  ds  '  ; ^ 
s  ray  eU.r«ymen.  and  this  Sunday  there  was  none  s^' 
"K-n  the  place,  so  they  asked  an  American  Script      - 
reader  to  read  prayers,  an<l  he  ^ave  us  a  very  nicJ   e^. 

c.  Hand  1  took  a  walk  in  tiu..  afternoon,  and  w^^^^^ 
■nve.Kded  .nto  payin,.  a  visit.  \\'.  are  /..  ,.Jw  to  n  v 
v.s.ts  as  a  rule,  but  sometin.es  we  n,eet  a  '  riend  a  his 
own  d.M.r.  and  he  asks  us  to  come  in 

.V<v„/,,r   v//,.-\Ve  were  suddenly  struck  with  the  idee 

ofK.Hn,s.dm.,n.nshinK^sowe.,rcleredahamper,,         , 
v.s.ons  to  he  ready  in  twenty  „,inutes.  took  a  comb       , 

brus     and  a  pocket-handkerchief  in  aba.,  and  s^ti;^ 
I  .  ami  I   ,n  the //,,.,..,/.,  which  is  a  small  yawl.  Ham 
"O'ul  follow.n,.  in  the  A,..,/,,,     w,  ,,,,  a  iov  ly     dl 
"P  tho  Saguenay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Marjrucrite   Riv'e 
where  we  arrived  about  four  o'clock,  and  stnt  ashor    f  ; 
the     Sherman.     Then  we  each  got  into  a  can<,e,  and 
gan    o  ascen,!  the  rapids  •     I  have  already  desc  il,e.     he 

2'''s  -  U>ey  appeared  from  a  steamer,  but  from  a^n: 
one  sees  the  dangers  more  closely.     A  „,,n  stm,  r  ? 

eachendoftheca..oe.withalon.;ole':       ,        ^,:^ 
passenger  s.ts  in  the  mi.ldle.  on  the  floor.     The  c  ;r     t 
■  s  some.h.nj.  tremendous,  and  the  water  dashes  abo 
to  rocks  .n  .,u,te  a  fearful  way.     The  men  /./.  the 
n.M,,..    rst,u.nKasl.oveononesi.Ieand,hn.  o,; 

iltrfui   skdl.     It    ,s  very  hard  work,  and  wh.-,,    i   .,:., 


eymj.ati.eticaliy  to  our  conductor  that 


U  must   be  ftt- 


'-  CH.  I 

M;gy  and  rainy, 
t-h    I),  admires, 
cipk's  of  archi- 
i'l  Canada,  and 
kc  one  with  a 
and  short  bars 
is  very  (juaint 
depends   upon 
as  none  stay- 
:an  Script ure- 
'ery  nice  scrv- 
oon,  and  were 
.C'"//'/  to  pay 
I'licnd  at  his 

with  the  idee 
miper  of  pro- 
V  a  comb  and 
r,  and  set  off, 
yawl,  Kani- 
a  lovely  sail 
lu-rite   River, 
lit  ashore  for 
""0,  and  be- 
lescribed  the 
rom  a  canoe 
11  stands  at 
is  hand;  the 
'I'he  current 
ashes  about 
'oie  the  boat 
li'^ii  on  the 
y  with  won- 
h-en    r    „.,;,} 

Hist   be  fa- 


AUG.  1873 


71/ E  FIKST  SAl.ArOX. 


17 


tiguing  work,  he  replied  with  very  great  fervor,  ''Joliment 
Jati^iuiiitr     'I'his  is  going  ///  the  rapids;  coming  down 
the  rush  is  with  you,  and  then  with  etjual  skill  the  men 
use  their  i)ad(iles  and  ward  the  boat  oil  from  the  rocks 
stoi)ping  her  in  her  headlong  career  as  she  appears  to  be 
rushing  to  destruction.     We  went  up  successfully,  and 
landed  about  eight  o'clock  at  the  edge  of  a  wood,  groped 
our  way  up  a  narrow  path,  and  f(nnul  ourselves  at  three 
small  wooden  huts.     The  first  was  a  dining-room  and 
pantry,  the  second  two  bedrooms,  the  third  a  place  for 
the  men.    ()j)posite  the  dining-room,  but  fifty  yards  from 
it.  was  an  open   shed,  which   I   found  to  be  the  kitchen; 
and  as  J  sat  at  the  head  of  the  table  I  saw  Imi)s  dancing 
about  the  lire  cooking  our  dinner. 

Opposite  our  encampment  there  is  a  curious  geologi- 
ca!— or  dayological— formation  :  it  looks  as  if  half  a 
high  hill  had  been  cut  clean  away  with  a  knife-in  fact, 
a  perfect  section  of  a  hill  is  exposed  to  view.  It  is  quite 
as  Hat  as  the  side  of  a  cheese,  with  nothing  growing  upon 
it,  but  the  top  is  crowned  with  trees.  The  side  is  gray 
clay,  and  it  is  six  /lumired  feet  high. 

We  were  very  glad  to  retire  soon  to  our  little  iron 
beds,  and  to  cree|)  under  our  nios(piito-curtains ;  but  I 
confess  1  felt  a  certain  emotion  at  the  idea  of  sleeping  in 
such  a  lonely  place,  with  no  one  between  us  and  the 
North  Pole' 

Tuesiiity,  ^///.—Notwithstanding  the  solitary  feelings 
which  oppressed  me  for  a  time  last  night,  I  slept,  and 
was  ready  to  get  up  at  five.  We  performed  a  hasiy 
"toilet,"  swallowed  a  ciip  of  tea.  and  took  the  canoes 
for  fishing.  We  were  both  most  industrious,  and  (logged 
the  water  with  our  flies,  but  had  no  bites;  then  "  I'eter." 
flu-  fisherman,  took  my  rod  and  hooked  a  salmon.     My 

ro<!   [H    -Inail,   and    lu:   rxrl.iimpi!   na   rh^.    v  iii»^,..,    „.r.    ..a 


moil   ran   ott 


With  the  line,  that  "  the  cord  was  too  short."     (^uiuk 


as 


^ 


i8 


M  Y  CA  A'//  DIA  N  JO  URXA  L. 


CH.  I 


possible  he  jiiinped  into  a  canoe,  and  wc  saw  a  most  ex- 
citing chase;  the  salmon  flying  off  with  yards  of  line,— 
being  wound  up  again,— giving  an  occasional  jump  into 
the  air,  and  battling  courageously  for  life.  When  he 
was  getting  worn  out  I'eter  landed  and  insisted  upon  my 
holding  the  rod.  1  found  it  almost  too  heavy  for  me, 
and  I  had  a  great  deal  of  help  in  finishing  the  poor  vic- 
tim, who  still  made  dashes  to  release  himself.  At  last 
we  got  him  near  the  shore,  when  a  cruel  gaff  was  stuck 
into  him,  and  a  cry  of  triumph  from  the  men  announced 
his  death  to  us,  and  to  the  listening  woods.  The  salmon 
weighed  fifteen  pounds, 

At  nine  we  went  home  to  our  breakfast.  After  it  we 
sat  at  the  kitchen  fire  and  burnt  holes  in  the  only  boots 
we  had  with  us  !  The  day  was  very  fine,  and  we  walk  jd 
and  sat  aliout  till  four  o  clock,  when  fishing  recom- 
menced. I  must  tell  you  that  we  were  oiled  all  over, 
face  and  neck  and  hands,  with  a  strong-smelling  stuff, 
to  keep  off  the  moscjuitoes. 

Again  D.  and  I  began  to  work,  and  soon  //<•  hooked 
a  salmon,  ami  I  laid  down  my  rod  to  see  the  fight.  It 
lasted  a  long  time,  and  the  fish  led  the  fisherman  a  good 
dance  before  he  died.  He  weighed  fourteen  and  a  quar- 
ter pounds,  and  was  His  Lordship's  first  salmon!  We 
caught  no  more, 

\\'('iiiu-sJa\\  yth. — At  eight  o't  lock  we  left  the  huts  and 
went  uown  the  rapids,  the  men  singing  some  of  their 
wild  and  curious  boat-songs  as  they  paddleil  us  along. 
We  had  arranged  to  fish  for  trout  at  the  place  where  we 
had  anchored  the  yachts,  and  then  to  be  picked  up  l)y 
the  steamer  on  its  way  down  the  Saguenay,  and  to  go 
oil  to  Rivi<:;re  du  I.onp.  However,  to  our  astonishment, 
we  saw  our  steamer  going  up  the  river.  She  had  been 
detained  by  fog,  and  our  jilans  were  th.us  put  out.  There 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  sail  back  to  '^'adousuc,  and 


CH.  I 

saw  a  most  ex- 
I'ards  of  line, — 
Jiial  jump  into 
life.  When  he 
sisted  upon  my 
heavy  for  me, 
j;  the  poor  vic- 
iiself.  At  last 
\r:\({  was  stuck 
len  announced 
.     The  sahnon 


Aii;.  1872 


HUNGRY  AXD    TIRED. 


'9 


await  the  steamer's  return  there.  We  had  a  couple  of 
very  disagreeai)le  hours,  and  Inaliy  arrived  at  our  des- 
tination in  a  fog,  a  thunderstorm,  and  a  heavy  shower. 
As  we  expected  the  steamer's  immediate  return,  we 
merely  lay  down  upon  our  l)eds,  and  waited  till  five 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  at  last  she  arrived,  and  I), 
and  I  and  our  two  sleepy  children  got  on  board.  I), 
went  straight  on  to  Quebec,  so  he  retired  to  bed  ;  i)ut 
as  we  were  to  reach  Riviere  du  Loup  in  two  hours,  we 
remained  up,  and  got  there  at  last  very  hungry  and  tired. 


t.  After  it  we 
the  only  boots 
md  we  walk  jd 
ishing  recom- 
)iled  all  over, 
smelling  stuff, 

)on  //(•  hooked 
the  fight,  it 
ernian  a  good 
;n  and  a  quar- 
salmon!     We 


t  the  huts  and 
<ome  of  their 
led  us  along, 
ace  where  we 
picked  up  by 
ly,  and  to  go 
astonishment, 
>he  had  been 
t  out.  There 
'aduusac,  and 


CHAPTER    II. 


I  f 


QVKUKC. 

The  CitaJ,'! :  Friday,  August  9tf,.-~\.:,^y  Harriet  and 
I  have  jcned  I),  at  Quebec,  and  I  an,  ,.uch  please  .vih 
my  barrack  home.  All  bcu.ks  about  Canada  will  te 
you  how  splendid  is  the  situation  of  the  Citadel;  very 
h.^^h,  and  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  that  great 
m-er  the  St.  Lawrence.  Our  house-.- quarters 
sh  uld  say-,s  not  yet  quite  ready,  and  workmen  are 
stdl   busy  papermg  and  n.aking  alterations.     The  old 

above  It.    It  ,s  a  long  room,  with  windows  at  ei'her  end  • 
hose  facmg  the  river  open  on  to  an  immense  platform" 
the  outer  wall  of  which  forms  a  balustrade.     There     sTt' 
and  look  down  htnuireds  of  feet  upon  the  town  Iving  be- 
low  me;  or  Into  the  ships,  on  to  whose  decks  ffancv  I 
could  almost  throw  a  .stone;  or  at  the  St.  Lawrence'it- 
•If.  and  at  the  blue  hills  far  away-in  fact,  at  one  of 
the   most  celebrated   views  of  the   world!     There  are 
great  black  cannon  also  looking  out  from   the  Citadel 
and  the  Union  Jack  and  the  Dominion   Flag  are  ii yi  g 
beside  me,     I  assure  you  it  is  very  romantic  '  ^     *^ 

I  am  rather  afraid  that  with  your  little  English  ideas 

you  wdl  not  understand  the  size  of  my  ..platLm/' 1^^^^^^^ 
It   s  big  enough  to  give  a  ball  on.  or  a  gar.len  par  v 
a  chanty  bazaar,  or  any  other  sort  of  ...»!,„.;.,.  '   ,  n'..! 


open  your  mind  for  the  consideration  of 


It. 


i 


AUG.  1872 


SETTING   UP  HOUSE. 


ly  Harriet  and 
;;h  pleased  with 
uiada  will  tell 
:  Citadel ;  very 
'  of  that  great 
-"  quarters,"   I 

workmen  are 
^ns.  The  old 
awing-room  is 

at  eiMier  end: 
!nse  platform, 
;.  There  I  sit 
own  lyinjr  be- 
L'cks  I  fancy  I 

Lawrence  it- 
net,  at  one  of 
!  There  are 
1  the  Citadel, 
ag  are  flying 
c! 

I'-nij^Jish  ideas 
latform,"  hut 
Icn  party,  or 
'n^  you  like! 
A  it. 


21 

D.  and  Colonel  Fletcher  rode,  and  I  went  for  a  charm- 
ing drive,  and  was  more  pleased  than  ever  with  the  conn 
try  round  Quebec.    Everything  is  growing  so  lu.xuriantlv 
now.    Tl,e  hedges  are  full  of  (lowers  and  large  wild  maid'- 
enhair  fern,  and  quantities  of  berries  which  all  seem  to 
be  eatal.le;  and  the  crops,  which,  before  they  were  fully 
developed,  looked  miserable,  have  suddenly  swelled  out 
and  Idled  up  all  the  bare  places  one  deplored  a  month  ago 
Monday,   /^M.-The   weather   is   very   hot,    but    not 
oppressive.     l>co,)le  here   live  behind  green  blinds,  and 
shut  the  sun  out  of  their  houses :  they  can  not  under- 
stand our  -iking  to  see  it  shine  in,  and  they  complain  of 
the  heat  much  more  than  we  do. 

7W,n.,  ijth.-ln  the  afternoon  we  went  out  to  do 
some  shopping.  The  most  important  part  of  it  was 
choosmg  furniture  for  a  little  room.  Jt  was  difiicult  to 
get  what  we  wanted.  They  have  no  plain  stuffed  sofas 
or  cha.rs-everythu.g  is  surrounded  by  elaborate  cary. 
nigs  m  wood,  and  the  men  are  astonished  that  their 
£-xceliencies  "  u'aiiiwiit pas  la  sculpturer 

We  are  miserable  over  our  hea^y  luggage,  which 
w  Ino  arr.ve.  We  have  nine  dessert-plates,  and  no 
"tlu-r  .hma,  no  silver  plate  at  all,  no  harness,  and  it  is 
'mp.'ssil,le  to  ".setup"  or  to  give  dinners  until  these 
tlHMgs  .ynve.  No  one  traveling  here  should  h.se  sight 
"f  Ins  bo.,  for  an  instant.  Things  are  never  lost,  but 
they  may  be  months  getting  to  their  owner 

I  have  been  looking  for  a  .scullery-maid,  and  find 
women-servants  very  scarce,  I  have  only  seen  one 
young  lady  in  .search  of  the  place:    she  s.u.ke  with  a 

feathers.     She  was  extremely  surprised  at  my  wishing 

o  have  a  character.     She  ha.I  one.  but  had  left  it  at 

home,  nut  supposing  i  shoul.i  care  to  see  it;  of  course 

she  could  fetch  it  directly.     Next  morning  :C\:ZZ 


'^*»- 


ii 


My  CAA'ADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  II 

me  three  lines,  on  very  common  paper,  wluch,  i„  very 
bad  wr.t.n,.,  cerfhed  her  to  be  honest  and  "obi  d.ein^.  ^ 
In  spue  of  the  brogue  she  was  Canadian,  and  was  '  u';e 
she  d.dn't  know  what  Man.a  was,"  wh;n  1  questioned 
her  as  to  her  nationality.  questioned 

all  ?Jf?V^1r'^T'^  ^"^  "^y  ^'^^'-"  letters  shut  up 
all  ready  for  the  mail,  1  took  a  complete  holiday  from 
wntin,.,  for  one  is  always  pen  in  hand  here,  and  letted 
writing  becomes  one's  normal  condition.  W.  look  unon 
our  epistles  as  seed  sown,  and  are  always  e,,^  '  h 
otner  on  to  write  to  new  people,  that  our  harvest  of 
news  may  be  plentiful. 

Vv/h'r,rT' ''"■  ^'''  '''''"^^'^'  ''^"^'  ^  ff^'e  is  blowing 
VVe  hardly  know  our  Quebec  in  this  tempest,  and  loin 
to  see  It  in  its  usual  sunshine  again  ^ 

age''a"littl ''"".?"  "'  '"'''  '  '^""'  ""'  ^^^-^-^'b'  man- 
age  a   little  walk   too.     Colonel   Strange*  has  lent   us 

some  arms,  and  at  the  top  of  our  crimson-clothed     t.i 

.w.n.,..f„ur  are  cricketers,  wh„  ar^  e.pe'     .    „  We 
to-iii.imiw  from  I'liiKlaiul  <;-M«."ui  to  arrive 

Ottawa/'""'"""'  "■'"  ''"""^  Secretary,  arrived  from 

«rr,M,K„,K  the  <lraw„,K:.r„„„, ;    ,|,en    we   drove   1„    the 
^.wn   to  K,:.   tal,le.covers  and  some  r.nishin,    ,„ tl  's 
Our  c  torts  were  erowncl  with  success,  and  tie  rt™ 
looked  extremely  pretty.  " 


3 


i 


I.,  commnnci  of  H  Ballory,  Cnnadinn  Artillery. 


z. 


CH.  n 


AUG.  187a 


A  PICNIC. 


,  which,  in  very 
id  "oblidgeing." 
,  and  was  "  sure 
en  I  questioned 

letters  shut  up 
e  holiday  from 
ere,  and  letter- 

\V'c  looic  u|)on 
^'s  ejrjring  each 
3ur  harvest  of 

le   is  blowing, 
pest,  and  long 

:enerally  man- 
*  lias  lent  us 
clothed  stair- 
f  swords  and 
lyonets.     Our 
ope  it  will  be 
?r  of  twenty- 
r  glass,  plate, 
even    of   our 
:ted  to  arrive 

arrived  from 

ole  morning 
'ove  to  the 
ng  touches. 
cl   the  room 


23 


H 


Nearly  everything  had  to  he  hired  for  the  dining- 
room  ;  but  about  an  hour  before  dinner  a  few  cases 
arrived,  and  two  or  three  salvers  were  got  out  to  orna- 
ment the  sideboard. 

We  had  thirty  people  — eleven  of  ihem  cricketers. 
The  dinner  was  supposed  to  be  at  7.30,  and  the  Cana- 
dians arrived  punctually,  but  the  English  guests  were 
somewhat  London-like  in  their  hours.  In  the  evening 
the  officers  of  the  B  Battery,  quartered  in  the  Citadel, 
came  in.  Every  one  admired  our  new  platform  very 
much,  and  as  a  most  sjjlendid  moon  shone  down  upon 
the  St.  Lawrence  for  the  occasion,  it  really  was  very 
nice.  The  attractions  of  the  platform  almost  emptied 
the  drawing-room. 

Tucuiay,  20t/t.—ln  the  afternoon  we  drove  out,  Lady 
Harriet,  Mr.  Coulson,  and  L  First  we  went  over  an  asy- 
lum part  of  which  is  for  old  men  and  old  women.  'I'he 
first  old  gentleman  I  saw  said,  "  I  was  ju.st  coming  up  to 
see  you.     I  come  from  Killyleagh."* 

At  each  side  of  the  building  are  orphan  asylums.  We 
went  over  everything  thoroughly,  going  up  to  the  attics 
and  down  to  the  kitchens,  and  examining  both  the  sum- 
mer and  winter  clothing  of  the  boys  and  girls. 

Thursday,  2^./.— The  morning  looked  damp  and  un- 
certain, but  we  started  on  a  picnic.  A  tandem,  contain- 
ing  our  second  cook  and  our  guide  and  commissariat 
officer,  led  the  way.  Lady  W.  and  I  followed  in  a  ba- 
rouche. I),  and  Colonel  Fletcher  rode.  I  must  tell  you 
that  our  "guide  "  is  quite  a  character,  and  is  of  a  most 
sanguine  disposition  :  he  declared  the  distance  to  the 
lake  was  only  twenty  miles,  that  there  we  should  catch 
fish  of  enormous  weights,  that  moose  and  bear  and  cari- 
bou would  be  shot  by  us  in  the  bush,  and.  although  it 


ery. 


*  My  old  home  in  County  Down. 


24 


MY  CAXAD/AX  JOUKh'AL. 


CH.  II 


•J\ 


poured  as  we  drove  along,  that   the   weather  would  be 
lovely  "in  half  an  hour." 

D.  thought  seriously  of  turning  back,  but  we  voted 
for   gmng  the  sun    another  chance,    and    things   soon 
looked  much  better.     When  we  had  reached  the  "  twenty 
miles"   we    found    we    were   about    half   wav,    and   we 
stopped  at  a  cottage  to  change  carriages.     The  rest  of 
the  road  was  too  rough  for  our  barouche,  so  we  gu  into 
the  wagon  with  the   tandem,  while  the  cook  set  out  in  a 
cart      We  gave  the  horses  an  hour  to  rest,  while  we  sat 
in  the  garden  and  talked  to  the  man  and  his  wife.     She 
was  Scotch,  and  he  a  very  good  specimen  of  an  Irish- 
man.    Hehad  bought  eighty  acres  for  ^,00,  but  thinks 
a  tenant  in  Ireland  better   off,  in   spite  of  his  "rent." 
They  both  dread  the  long  winters,  and  the  heat  of  the 
summer. 

They  had  such  a    nice   dog  with   an   extraordinary 
taste  for  putting  out  fires.    When  shown  a  lighted  paper 
he  rushed  at  it,  tried  to  extinguish  it  with  his  mouth' 
then  had  recourse  to  his  paws,  and,   after  succeeding' 
cooled  his  poor  tongue  with  some  clay  or  a  stone 

When  we  reached  our  destination,  we  found  our 
three  tents  pitched  on  the  borders  of  Lake  St  Joseph 
which  is  ten  miles  long,  and  is  surrounded  by  hills 
covered  with  woods.  At  sunset  it  was  lovely;  the  hills 
becoming  purple  and  blue,  and  the  water  looking  like 
molten  brass.  Close  to  our  encampment  was  a  farm- 
house, and  a  nice  Irish  family,  all  with  char  .ing  man- 
ners—the  father  a  magistrate. 

Our  guide  had  been  beaming  all  day,  and  was  radi- 
ant now  that  the  weather  looked  better.    He  had  shown 
us  the  tea-plant  growing  on  the  way,  the  saffron-plant 
etc.,  and  had  told  us  a  good  deal  about  the  country  and 
the  people.     He  sent  us  out  with  01 


our  dinner  was  being  prepared.      W 


rndH  to  fish,  whih 
ith  us  went  Ham- 


CH.  II 

her  would  be 

but  we  voted 

things   soon 

1  the  "  twenty 

way,   and   we 

The  rest  of 

0  we  g(,t  into 
:  set  out  in  a 
while  we  sat 
lis  wife.     She 

of  an  Irish- 
o,  but  thinks 
^  his  "rent." 
?  heat  of  the 

xtraordinary 
glited  paper, 

1  his  mouth, 
succecdir.g, 

stone. 

found  our 
■  St.  Joseph, 
ed  by  hills 
ly;  the  hills 
ooking  like 
vas  a  farm- 
r '.aig  man- 

(1  was  radi- 
had  shown 

ffron-plant, 

ountry  and 
fish,  while 

vent  Ham- 


at;g.  1S72 


AfX.    WHITE. 


25 


mond  (who  had  arrived  before  to  pitch  our  tents),  and  a 
Mr.  White,  one  of  the  afore-mentioned  Irish  family.  We 
were  just  throwing  out  our  first  line,  when  Mr.  White 
said,  "There  is  a  great  storm  coming:  we  must  get 
under  the  trees."  We  jumped  out  of  the  boats,  got 
under  some  bushes,  and  pulled  a  waterproof  over  us; 
a  terrific  storm,  with  tropical  rain,  came  on,  and,  in 
spite  of  all  precautions,  we  got  (pute  wet.  When  it  was 
over,  we  set  off  for  our  encampment.  Our  guide  met 
us  on  the  shore.  His  spirits  were  not  damped,  and 
wiien  Colonel  Fletcher  inquired  an.xiously  if  the  tents 
had  let  in  any  water,  he  replied,  "  Not  a  drop.  Colonel ; 
not  a  droo."  On  reaching  them,  however,  we  found 
every  bed  .;nd  blanket  wet  through !  They  had  looked 
so  nice  and  comfortable  when  we  went  out,  and  now  all 
our  possessions  were  soaking. 

We  lighted  a  fire, — for  which  the  Whites  sacrificed 
all  their  nice  palings, — and  currounded  it  with  the  wet 
shawls,  and  beds,  and  bedding ;  then  we  pulled  our  table 
close  to  the  warm  blaze,  and  our  cook  sent  us  soup  and 
€iitr('('s,  and  roasts  and  pudding,  and  we  were  quite  happy. 
As  soon  as  the  things  were  dry  we  went  to  bed. 

We  had  three  tents.  In  the  first  we  dressed ;  in  the 
second  D.  and  I  had  most  comfortable  little  beds,  and 
we  crept  through  a  hole  to  get  to  them.  I  procured  a 
penknife  to  put  under  my  pillow,  to  cut  my  way  out  in 
case  of  emergency,  for  in  a  panic  1  never  ct)uld  have 
found  the  hole.  There  was  a  faint  possibility  of  a  bear 
peeping  in  at  it,  and  a  pretty  good  chance  of  a  pig  com- 
mitting the  same  indiscretion. 

Friday^ 2 jd, — The  fire  was  crackling  outside  my  tent 
when  I  awoke,  and  as  soon  as  1).  had  dressed,  I  skipjied 
across  to  the  dressing-tent,  and  got  ready  for  breakfast. 
The  day  was  lovely,  and  we  were  all  full  of  anticipation. 
Our  guide  appeared  so  radiant  and  so  exactly  the  image 


26 


^''y  CANADIAN  JOUR.VAL. 


CH.  II 

of  the  celebrated  "  Mr    m  ■ 

;-  .oe.  by  thaf  na*.     ;|;f  „    ■%;'  ^--'.  ^  «'-  „e 

his  sl,„n  coat,  and  a  ffreat  ^h  J      "  ""=  "■'»■  "''h 

;'-  living  pi.L„  „f  i;™-:;  "x:'::"-''/ 1^"^"' 

liKirt  was  in  the  Highlands  "  **  that  "his 

w:>i;r-ir™rrh.'-\rh:r:-^ --"■"■• 

tJay,  and  caught  fifty  ba^^     -.  "''"'^  pleasant 

-^  an  aiiuis^.,  onrtot;;;^^^^;;:;/-^---^  fi^ 

sat  tm>  hours  in  the  sunshine    .     i    ''""' ^""'*^  ^o  lunch, 
again  in  the  afternoon  '       '  ''''''  ""'  ^"  ^^e  lake 

'i'iie  other  party,  though  unsucre.^fni   u    , 
"  i^riggs,-  with  his  p<>wderflrk    '       ;  .       ^''''  '""• 
or  four  g,.,,  ,„,  ^^^^^^^  fi^hin^  ,    Hn  t""''  ^'"^ 
dered  his  men  to  start     11.  r«  ^  ^^""^'  "r- 

'"  take  ten   '<  rounds"  of     ''''"'""^^"^'^^  ^'^e  gentlemen 

though  they  fear:d':;.erelT;;;:ir;.^^'''^-^  ^'-'^  ^'^^'. 
they  only  wanted  to  see  the  "b.sh  '  Off  f/"  ^'""' "^^' 
as  they  rowed  along  EHggs  wo  hi  V  u'"^  ^'"''  ""^ 

words  of  command' to  M^  Ce  ^wh^"^' '"' ^'^^'^^^ 
and  catch  a  trout."  "Whito  m.'  ,  '"^'^'^top  there 
which  they  did  ../do   and       '  '"^^  "  ^^'^  here," 

--'  i^nggl  was  to  tid     I'm  "to""'  ""     ''^'^^  '-^^•^' 
shores  of  which  he  promis    ,  ,'"'  ""'"  '''^'^'  °"  ^he 
ten  yards  before  he'c   "e  "'v/:':'  ,  "^,  ^^^  -t  gone 
h'-eath."  and  during  the  "  bre.t     '    ,      ""'  "'''"  ^''^'^'^^  ^ 
^levoured  by  black  flies   of  v^  i    ,  n'" '  '^""  ^'"""^^l  was 
declared   there    was  not  one        ,f"^^^-''  ^"^^'""'^'>^ 
•  severe,  as  there  were  ^reu.,„"  I      T  "''"^'"ff  was  very 
covered  with  mos    thaut  ^  "   "'      r'f'^  '-^"'"^  ''^''-^'  -' 
\"  ^'-y  stepped  on   t  e     ;;.;1^" '^'^  "."^  ^  ^^e-  "n- 
they  sank  down  between    llu  ''  ^^'■"""*'-  "lien 

«nggs-s  .^  breath  -  tik  1  b   '"^"^"^^^^"f  ^he  fallen  trees, 
began  to  fear,  not  J^!;  thJrT^^"^"^?^' ^"^  ''  -" 


Ir.  B 


n 


«:gs  had  no  not 


ion 


CII.  II 

nch  "  that  he 
he  was,  with 
,  on  each  side 
ock's  feather; 
ited  that  "his 

sh  with  him, 
■cry  pleasant 
>h-water  fish, 
me  to  lunch, 
on  the  lake 

<^'  great  fun. 
i  neck, three 
e  canoe,  or- 
■  gentlemen 
^  they  did, 

>  shoot,  and 
y  went,  and 
•  and  sharp 
stop  there 
ass  here," 
ey  landed, 
:e,   on  the 

I  not  gone 
'II  take  a 
'lonel  was 
'reviously 
was  very 
about,  so 
them  un- 
11(1,  when 
en  trees. 
J),  soon 

>  notion 


Auo.  1972 


"J/A".  BRIGGS." 


of  his  way  at  all,  but  also  that  he  was  keeping  himself 
up  by  rather  too  many  "  drops  "  of  brandy ;  so  a  consul- 
tation was  held,  and  they  found  that  if  they  went  on  un- 
til the  sun  set,  they  would  lose  their  way,  and  be  unable 
to  get  out  of  the  wood,  so  they  thought  seriously  of  re- 
turning. Briggs  began  to  give  more  decided  orders  than 
ever.  "White,  go  and  get  me  a  glass  of  water;  do  you 
hear.  White  ? — go  and  get  it  directly,  sir  " — this  when  no 
water  was  to  be  seen  anywhere  ;  then,  "  White,  go  and 
find  that  lake — go  on  there,  and  you'll  find  it,  sir";  but 
Mr.  White  was  afraid  of  being  lost  Then  15riggs  lay 
down,  called  for  his  mos(juito-curtain,  and  D.  and  Colonel 
Fletcher  began  to  consider  how  they  could  get  him 
home.  They  sent  him  a  bottle  of  ginger  ale  (without 
any  brandy),  and  soon  after  drinking  that  he  pulled  him- 
self together,  and  they,  steering  by  the  sun,  got  out  of 
the  wood. 

They  were  immenselv  imused,  but  Briggs  was  crest- 
fallen, and  went  to  bcu,  and  has  never  alluded  to  this 
expedition  again.  Our  cook  had  shot  us  some  snipe  and 
stjuirrels,  and  gave  us  an  excellent  dinner:  we  tasted 
the  squirrels,  but  they  were  strong  of  turpentine  and 
were  very  nasi  \ , 

When  something  was  said  to  Hammond  about  poor 
Mr.  BrigLjs,  he  said,  "  And  he  turned  out  all  hands  this 
morning  after  the  roosters  to  get  those  two  feathers  for 
his  hat." 

Saturday,  24th, — We  had  our  breakfast  down  on  the 
edge  of  the  lake,  and  sat  a  long  time  enjoying  tie  sun; 
then  we  rowed  over  to  the  other  side  to  see  the  pitcher- 
plant  growing  wild.  We  also  saw  a  turtle  found  in  the 
lake.  At  noon  we  started  on  our  journey  home.  The 
views  the  whole  way  were  lovely,  and  we  stopped  to 
lunch  on  the  borders  of  the  Jacques  Carliei  River,  lighted 
a  fire,  and  had  broiled  fish,  etc. 


28 


^/y  CA A  AD/AN  JOURXAL. 


I  f 


CH.  ir 

tradesecfeirA  he  hairZ:';'""""^-'  '='""«  ""  "" 
received,  and  the  .  dy  had  .aktr'  ""  """'  '"'  '""' 
ca.es.  Which  .he  he  Jedt'to'ta^l  hi:"'"'  ""'  '"- 

pic/r:^;e:f:i7„:t.''^''''""""'-^-'"'^^-- 

Tucs^fay,  2rth.~.\n  the  afternoon  we  went  to  ...  ,. 
lunatic  asvlum  here      Tf  ^^  went  to  seethe 

and  is  very  cle"  n  "^""^  '"  "=  «"  "'-''«'-J. 

ple"'Mr'''Rr'';f  r  '"'  ""'"""  "^  '"en.y.f.ve  pe„. 

brea.fas,ed;i.h   us,   a!  d   we,u"  "?:  Z    n^'   '"""• 
w  th    I)      VV«  t,..  I  .  ^"^    I'niver.sitv 

nine^Her^rL:;^::,tr'=;--^'-'p'^^.  ^' 

I-op.ewhohacic::,.:    Xr''^;"-^"^'^f  ^'''the 
'H.n,^  with  Chinese  huHen"  ""  ''''^"^'"  "'^'^ 

Society  is  at  present  my  business  in  life   ind  .hi     • 
how  my  week  is  laid  out-  Mondu-   r  .  '  ''' 

receive  visitors.      Tues  l-u  ? '     ,■'"'""  "'  '"""'''  '" 

have   lar,e  dinners     ";/l:'r'V'''""''^^^^ 
-c.  Saturday  we  have  s:^::,r';;';;^'!^--7. 
we  have  a  "drum  "     Hi.h...-r  .  ^  '"«^  '"^^''^s 


CH.  ir 

;  we  talked  to 
telling  all  his 
vere  very  well 
»e  fine  plum- 
is  fully  occu- 

:nt  to  sec  the 
ell  managed, 

nty-five  peo- 
5'iiitli,  M.  1».* 
•  I'essenden, 
2re  all  Cana- 

Mr.   Smith 

University 

people.     At 

'liich  all  the 

alform  was 

and  this  is 
at  homo  to 
iirsday,  we 
glil-seeing, 
big  flights 
•d  our  din- 
<>  pleasant 

■,  Madame 

"drums." 

:.  and  can 

e  Treasu^, 


SEPT.  1872 


r//E    U/fSULIXE   CONVENT. 


29 


not  come  unless  I  diplomatically  suggest  that  the  invita- 
tion is  a  "command."  Mourning  is  kept  here  in  the 
strictest  manner,  and  I  believe  there  is  a  time  fixed  for 
keeping  down  a  thick  veil-  a  time  for  paying  mourning 
visits,  etc.,  etc. 

I  was  "at  home'*  to  visitors,  and  we  had  a  very 
pleasant  afternoon— a  few  people  at  a  time,  instead  of 
the  rush  at  an  official  gathering. 

After  dinner  we  had  a  drum,  at  which  nearly  the 
whole  of  Quebec  ajipeared.  They  were  cheery,  and  it 
went  off  well.  I  tried  to  have  some  singing,  but  there 
was  too  much  talk.  The  band  played,  and,  unluckily, 
finished  its  performance  with  "  (lod  save  the  Queen  " : 
the  instant  the  f.imiliar  bars  were  heard,  half-finished 
ices  were  thrown  down  and  every  one  rushed  away. 

T/iiirsdijy,  AV/A7//Ar  j/Z/.—Lady  Harriet  and  1  called 
at  the  Ursuline  Convent.  We  took  the  babies,  and  I 
was  more  struck  with  the  peculiarities  of  convent  life 
than  when  we  went  through  the  establishment  i)efore;  for, 
not  having  1).  with  us,  we  were  not  admitted,  but  had  to 
talk  to  the  nuns  through  iron  bars.  It  was  (piitr  funny 
to  hear  them  all  buzzing  inside  their  cage,  laughing  anil 
talking,  and  ha.iding  sugar  to  the  babies  and  admiring 
them!  Luckily,  they  (the  babies)  l)ehaved  well,  and 
both  examined  the  curious  scene  with  the  utmost 
gravity. 

/>/■(/«/)',  6th.-.\  was  writing  this  morning  when  D. 
called  me  to  see  eight  bishops,  archbishops,  and  ,,rr„„Js 
rtr.iiWs  who  had  parti(>u!.irly  asked  for  me.  I  went  into 
the  tirawing-room,  and  found  all  these  ecclesiastics  in 
.  full  dress.  ()/„■  (Irand  Vicar  as  usual  put  every  one  at 
his  ease,  and  initiated  a  lively  tumversation. 

Immediately  after  lunch  we  started  off  in  a  small 
srr.iinrr  U,  tlic  oilier  side  of  the  river.  We  were  met  by 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Roberts,  who  came  out  with  us  in  the  /'/us- 


30 


M  V  CI  XA  D/A  X  JO  URXA  L. 


CH.  It 


siivi,  and  they  touk  us  to  the  Cliauilicre  Falls.  Wc  ad- 
mired them  very  much.  'I'liere  is  a  great  body  of  water, 
of  a  deep  brown  color,  which  tumbles  down  from  a  good 
lieigiit,  and  the  waterfall  is  very  wide;  the  cloud  of 
white  spray  looks  so  pretty  against  the  dark  water. 

We  also  wen*  to  see  a  very  handsome  new  Roman 
Catholic  church  j  ist  built  at  New  Liverpool.  We  found 
the  priest— Father  Saxe— a  most  superior  old  man,  and 
very  good-looking.  He  is  proud  of  his  church,  and  was 
pleased  with  our  visit.  Jle  cultivates  grapes  and  a  gar- 
den, "which  are  his  wife  and  children." 

Saturday,  7tli.—\\\  the  evening  we  had  a  small  dinner, 
and  as  soon  as  the  gentlemen  came  up  we  had  singing 
and  playing.     Mrs.  I'emberton  sang  Irish  melodies,  and 
Madame  .Sericole  French  songs,  and  M.  I,a   Rue  sang  a 
little  of  everything,  and  then  we  had  a  number  of  Cana- 
dian  boat-songs  with  choruses.     'I'hey  are  very  pretty, 
the  music  wild  and  plaintive.     Our  old  friend,  Madame 
Duval,  was  in  great   force,  and  she  and  her  daughter 
dictat  il  a  song  to  M.  La  Rue  which  was  rather  anuising 
aiul  pretty.     She  (Madame  .Sericole)  sang,  "J  will  be  an 
eel  in  a  pond  to  escape  from  you ; "  then  lie,  "Si  vous 
vous  fuites  anguille,  je  me  ferai  pecheur  pour  vous  pren- 
(Ire  en  pe(  hant ;  "  then  she,  *'  Si  vous  vous  faites  pecheur 
pour  me  prendre  en   pechant,  je  deviendrai  alonelfe," 
etc.     This  kind  of  (Conversation  goes  on  to  any  length, 
till   finally  she  says  she  will   become  a  nnn,  when  he 
inakcH   himself  "  pr(}chenr  pour  vous  prendre  en    pr6- 
chant."     This  fidelity  she  is  unable  to  resist,  and,  "  ruis- 
(pie   tu   m'aintes  tant  pour  te  fairc   prechcur   pour  mo 
prendre  en  prechnnt,  I  will  nuirry  you." 

Momfaw  V''/'.— Mr.  and  Mrs.  T.  Urassey*  nnd  Miss 
RobinKon  dined  with  us.     He  has  just  come  from  Enj{- 


CH.  11 

lis.  W'j  ad- 
dy  of  nater, 
from  a  j^ood 
lie  cloud  of 

water. 

new  Roman 
We  found 
Id  mail,  and 
ch,  and  was 
s  and  a  gar- 
mall  dinner, 
uid  siiiginjjf 
elodie.s,  and 
Rue  sanjr  a 
er  of  Cana- 
•ery  pretty, 
id,  Madame 
r  da'.ijrhter 
icr  aniiisinjf 
I  will  be  an 
i,  "Si  vous 
voiis  pren- 
tcs  peelu'iir 

alouctte," 
[Uiy  length, 
I,  wiien  he 
re  en  prfi- 
md,  "  Puis- 
r   |)our  me 

and  Miss 
from  Knjj- 


sEi'T.  187a 


THE  LOCAL   LXSTLTUTIOXS. 


31 


land  in  his  yacht,  a  twenty-eight  days'  voyage;  Mrs. 
Brassey  came  out  in  the  steamer. 

It'ii//t(\u/(iv,  nth. — 'I'lie  Bishop  of  (Quebec  and  Judge 
Stuart  came  to  breakfast,  and  at  eleven  we  starteil  on 
an  educational  tour.  At  the  first  school  separate  ad- 
dresses were  madj  to  each  of  us,  and  I  was  asked  for  a 
holi(h(y.  The  boys' schools  seem  almost  all  to  lie  under 
the  Christian  Brothers.  The  Cure  of  (Quebec  went  with 
us.  He,  like  the  other  priests  here,  is  very  "jolly."  I 
think  we  went  to  si.x  schools;  at  each  an  address  was 
read,  and  at  each  we  gave  a  holiday.  We  also  went  to 
see  the  Honors  of  I'arliamcnt — that  is,  the  hual  I'arlia- 
ment.  i  '  're  the  seat  of  (iovernment  was  moved  it 
was  ■  ;)crlal  one.     It  is  in  good  taste ;  the  outside 

(piite  plain.  After  lunch  we  went  with  1).  (wiio  had  not 
previously  been  there)  to  the  lunatic  asylum.  We  saw 
as  much  as  we  dared  to  see,  and  I),  just  escaped  a  cup 
of  tea  which  one  of  the  wildest  of  the  patients  threw 
through  the  holes  in  the  door  of  her  cell.  After  this  we 
went  to  see  some  Kgyptian  curiosities,  and  1  hurried 
home  to  rest  for  twenty  mii.ates  before  my  dinner.  We 
iiad  twenty-two  people,  the  Hrasseys  among  the  number. 

TImrsJay,  t2tlt.—  \\  is  the  experience  of  a  very  tired 
person  you  will  now  hear,  for  to-day  must  be  .xilJcd  to 
yesterday  to  understand  my  feelings.  We  did  not  go 
out  till  two,  for  I  was  very  busy  all  the  morning;  but  at 
two  we  went  ilown  to  the  Convent  of  St.  Koch,  where 
our  reception  was  most  charming,  'i'he  nuns  re(  eived 
us  at  the  door  and  led  us  into  a  very  larjfe  room,  the 
walls  of  which  were  lined  from  floor  to  ceiling  with  lit- 
tle children:  they  each  wore  either  a  blue  or  u  red  ril)- 
bon,  and  they  were  all  from  three  to  right  years  old—live 
hundred  in  number.  About  twenty  stood  in  the  middle 
of  the  room  and  sang  a  song  of  welcome,  and  whenever 
they  came  to  the  word  "  Kxcellence,"  or  "  Milor,"  they 


I 


32 


My  CAXADIAN  JOVKNAL. 


CH.  II 

all  courtesied  together.     Then  one  came  forward  and 
made  a  httle  address,  adding  that  this  great  occasion 
was  worthy  of  '<  a  double  holiday."     In  his  reply  D  said 
t'u't  although  he  had  never  heard  of  that  phenofnel 
•n  nature  «  a  double  holiday,"  he  was  happy  to  grant  it 
i  hen  we  went  upstairs  to  see  the  older  pup.ls.     I  can 
not  tcl    you  what  a  pretty  ceremony  it  was,  and  how 
gi   cefully  they  all  made  their  rMcccs  together      We 
looked  at  the  Church  of  St.  Roch,  which  is  a  large  and 
ra  her  gaudy  budding.    Then  we  proceeded  to  the  boys' 
schoo   of  the  district,  and   heard  son.e  singing,  and     e- 
ceived  an  address.     We  had  a  large  dinner  at  night 

Jnuiay,  yj//,-To  our  duties  again  to-day,  in  spite 
of  pourn.g  ran,.  We  began  at  ten,  and  visited  the  H.gh 
School  which  .s  a  superior  boys'  school,  and  several 
other  Protestant  schools. 

Mouday,  i6th.~\S^  went  to  the  Ursuline  Convent 
and  were  received  at  the  door  by  the  Confessor  and 
some  other  clergy,  and  by  some  of  the  ofticial  people  in 

^CJ     J;    u"  '""'^"'  '''  '''^■^"••^•^  •■'"<•  ^'^   Montcalm's 
skull  nnt.    all  was  ready,  and  then  we  went  to  the  great 

door  of  the  convent   and  knocked.     Some  nuns  opened 
to  us.  and  conducted  us  to  a  large  room,  where  we  fornd 
all  tne  pupils  dressed  in  white  and  with  wreaths  of  flow- 
ers on  the.r  heads.     They  sang  a  welcome  as  we  came 
n  ;  then  two  came  forward,  and  one  gave  a  little  address 
"  }'-ngl.sh  and  one  in  French.     All  the  time  we  were 
here  waves  of  courtesies  kept  sweeping  along  the  line 
t-vtry  t.me  our  names  were  mentioned,  and  as  we  passed 
down  the  room.     It  was  ve-y  pretfly  decorate<I      We 
made  a  tour  of  the  convent,  and  heard  the  pupils  plav  a 
piece  on  five  pianos  and  a   harmonium  at   once     We 
were  admitted  to  the  cells-cold  and  cheerless  places- 

When  they  see  the.r  parents,  the  dining-room  with  its 


CH.  11 

e  forward  and 
great  occasion 
is  reply  D.  said 
t  plienomenon 
ipy  to  grant  it, 
IHipils.     I  can 
was,  and  lu)w 
together.     We 
is  a  large  and 
•d  to  the  boya' 
iiging,  and  re- 
■  at  night, 
-day,  in  spite 
iited  the  High 
,  and  several 

line  Convent 
onfessor  and 
fial  people  in 
t  Montcalm's 
•  to  the  great 
nuns  o|)ened 

HTC  wc  foiMid 

.'aths  of  flow- 
as  we  came 
little  address 
imc  we  were 
ong  the  line 
as  we  passed 
orated.  We 
[)iii)ils  play  a 
^  once.  We 
less  places — 
ire  Inclosed 
om  with  its 


SEPT.  1873    RECEPTIONS  AT  THE  CONVENTS. 


33 


meager  furniture,  the  children's  playground,  and,  in  fact, 
all  the  sights  of  the  convent,  'llie  nuns  themselves  we 
found  most  cheerful  and  happy. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  a  ball  given  in  our  honor 
by  the  Lieutenant-Clovernor,  Sir  Narcisse  Belleau.  It 
was  held  in  the  music-hall,  a  very  fine  room.  D.  danced 
everything,  and  I  danced  the  square  dances. 

Tuesday,  ijtn. —  In  spite  of  our  fatigues,  we  had  to 
start  early  to  visit  another  convent,  "  Jesus  Marie,"  at 
Sillery.  Here  our  reception  was  too  lovely.  The  con- 
vent has  only  beon  built  three  years,  and  is  a  splendid 
house,  with  all  the  ncv  improvements,  and  with  fine 
grounds  surrounding  it.  In  one  hall  there  are  twelve 
glass  boxes,  each  containing  a  piano,  so  that  the  pupils 
can  practice  simultaneously;  while  in  another  glass 
house  sits  the  mistress,  overlooking,  but,  happily  for 
her,  not  overhec.ring.  At  the  door  we  were  met  by 
priests,  and  by  the  Lady  Superior,  and  we  first  of  all 
paid  our  respects  to  the  nuns— little  black:  ladies  with 
white,  large-boruercd  caps.  They  conducted  us  through 
passages  ornamented  with  mai)le-leaves,  and  i)lat'cd  us 
on  tlirtjiies  in  presence  of  the  pupils.  T!ie  children 
were  in  white,  and  a  circle  of  twelve  of  them  began  a 
dramatic  conversation,  in  which  they  consulted  each 
other  as  to  the  best  way  of  doing  us  honor.  One  sug- 
gested that  the  "  (lenlus  of  Canada"  .should  be  asked  her 
opinion  on  the  subject,  and,  like  a  good  fairy,  sue  imme- 
diately appeared  upon  the  scene,  and  settled  the  question 
by  giving  me  a  large  buncii  of  artificial  rt)ses  made  in  the 
convent,  singing  meanwhile  a  song  the  refrain  of  which 
v/as — 

"  Ce  sont  dps  roses  sans  Spinel, 
Que  Ton  vous  offre  au  Canntia," 

The  Genius  was  a  pretty,  fair  girl,  wearing  a  silver 
wreath  and  a  white  gown  ornamented  with  maple-leaves 


34 


MY  CA.VAD/AN  JOURNAL, 


CH.  « 

dnd  roses.     After  all    fhic  fi,„ 

'<»k  a,  a  church,  a,„l  '^a',  cU  in  ^2l  T  "''  """  '" 
rushed  hack  .„  he  -at  h„„  '■"  ,  I  /at  !'"'  ""'  ""-'" 
I  had  my  room  full  of  ^.J^uLlZT'' 

now'ra'r„tt:^:';::r"--"'a„e.„^ 

IVeJnesday,  /cfM.-The  day  of  our  first  ball      \X. 
excessively  busv  m-.Hnrv  1  •       ' '"-^^  »aii.     U  e  were 

where  we  were  received  by  the  Univ.r!;.    ^  "'"' 

res.ed  and  ,.ar„/l„„Red  ::f:e;";,;"h;;;r''  "'""'  "=  ^'"■'* 
l'.m.l  i„  ihe  room     .!,  T    '        '^  *"""'  ""'"■'  ■"«'  »  »"■"'? 

rciiy d,d e„ .:; h  ,  e':,:;'' : ^'"••" »'•-'■  •nu.y 

hav.  ancher  „„  Krida,..  «^"couragi„g,  »,  „ 


AL, 


CH.  II 


SEPT.  1872 


THE   "  STADACONA   HUNT." 


ave  us  cake  and 
tlier  convent.  It 
ng  itself  up,  but 
•  way  we  went  to 
ielleau,  and  then 
ternoon. 

>ree  to  six,  so,  as 
'en  the  hour  for 

nore  of  an  event 

ball.     We  viftxQ 
attending-  to  all 
eless,  we  had  to 
iversite   Laval. 
'i«P,  etc.,  and, 
>iigii  the  build- 
lie  great  room, 
y  proj)er.     We 
vas  filled  with 

and  the  Pro- 
iress,  and  list- 

on  the  roof, 
'd  at  the  :n 
lere  we  partly 


3S 


high  arched 

■"sf 

of  l)liie  and 

1 

ik  and  white 

iiiiitary  band 

and  a  string 

% 

tside  and  in. 

pirit.     Thi-y 

~ 

^giiig,  as  we 

-' 

Thursday,  igt/li.~{.\:iy  people  that  we  are!     To-day 
wc  had  a  paper-hunt.     We  started  at  eleven,  1).  riding, 

and  I  taking  two  Frenchmen  who  are  staying  here le 

Comte  de  Montebello  and  le  Baron  Brun — in  the  car- 
riage. It  poured  at  first,  but  cleared  soon.  W  c  crossed 
the  river  in  a  ferry,  carriage  and  all,  and  were  told  where 
to  place  ourselves;  so  we  were  much  amused,  as  we  saw 
the  jumping  perfectly.  When  the  paper  was  "killed," 
we  met  at  some  country  barracks,  had  lunch,  and  formed 
a  "club,"  "the  Stadacona  Hunt,"  with  I),  as  i)resident. 

Frida\\  2otli.—\\.  twelve  o'clock  I  went  over  a  Prot- 
estant home,  where  orphans  and  old  women  have  a 
refuge.  It  seems  to  be  very  nice  and  comfortable.  Aft- 
er lunch  we  inspected  an  india-rubber  manufactory,  and 
saw  the  material  from  the  time  it  comes  out  of  the  tree 
till  It  leaves  the  place  as  goloshes.  Then  we  proceeded 
to  a  wood-mill,  where  all  carpentering  is  done  by  ma- 
chinery, and  where  we  saw  our  Tadousac  house  laid  out. 
It  will  be  made  there,  and  transported  in  barges  to  its 
site. 

We  had  a  second  ball  in  the  evening,  and  this  time 
we  had  an  awning  on  the  platform,  which  was  hung  with 
Chinese  lanterns.  It  looked  very  pretty,  and  it  entirely 
prevented  any  crowd  in  the  ballroom;  in  fact,  it  was  al- 
most the  more  popular  jilace  of  the  two. 

Saturday,  21st.— \\.  E.  had  suggested  some  athletic 
sports,  so  we  went  down  to  see  them  and  to  lunch  with 
the  Mayor.  There  was  a  very  good  place  for  the  games 
—a  smooth  field,  surrounded  by  high  grass  banks  on  two 
sides,  and  with  houses  on  the  third.  People  sat  on  the 
banks  and  in  the  houses,  and,  as  the  day  was  lovely, 
there  was  an  immense  concourse  of  spectators. 

The  hills  all  round,  as  seen  from  our  celebrated  plat- 
form, are  of  the  most  lovely  autumn  colors,  and,  covered 
as  they  are  with  red  and  orange  trees,  they  really  look 


36 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURiXAL. 


CH.  II 

like  flames  in  the  distance,  or  like  gigantic  flower-gar- 
dens;  for  our  trees  are  quite  as  brilliant  as  your  best 
flowers^  and  if  you  can  imagine  your  conservatory  mae- 
n.f.ed  a  million  times,  and  spread  over  miles  and  miles 
of  lull  and  dale,  you  will  begin  to  understand  how  we  do 
things  in  this  Canada  of  ours. 

Monday,  23d.-W^  left  (^uebec  to-day,  and  received 
quite  an  ovation   at  our  departure.     The  weather  was 
ovely,  and  we  started  from  the  Citadel  at  three,  escorted 
by  a  guard  of  honor.     The  streets  were  hung  with  flaes 
and  were  full  of  people.     At  one  corner,  the  boys  of  the 
University  Laval  met  us,  and  about  fifty  of  them  each 
presented  me  with  a  bouquet,  so  that  I  was  half  buried 
with  flowers.     When  we  arrived  at  the  wharf,  we  found 
almost  the  whole  of  the  society  waiting  to  say  good-bv 
to  us.     The  Mayor  read  an  address,  and  invited  us  to  a 
ball,  and  D.  replied.     Then  we  shook  hands  with  every 
one,  and  went  on  board.     Every  part  of  the  town,  right 
up  to  the  Citadel,  was  crowded,  and  six  steamers  full  of 
people  accompanied  us  for  ten  miles.     When  we  got  to 
Cap  Rouge,  the  steamers  turned   back,  the  people  on 
board   cheering  and  waving   their    handkerchiefs      On 
the  coast   too,  at  each  little  wharf,  people  were  collected, 
and  at  the  houses  far  up  on  the  shore  we  saw  waving 
flags  and   table-cloths.     As  we  passed  the  Sillery  Con 
vent,  all  the  children  came  out  with  flags.     No  wonder 
we  like  Quebec! 


% 


CH,  II 


io  flower-gar- 
as  your  best 
rvatory  mag- 
ics and  miles 
id  how  we  do 

and  received 
weather  was 
iree,  escorted 
ig  with  flags, 
'■  boys  of  the 
f  them  each 

half  buried 
rf,  we  found 
say  good-by 
t'ited  us  to  a 
s  with  every 

town,  right 
mers  full  of 
'n  we  got  to 
;  people  on 
chiefs.  On 
re  collected, 
saw  waving 
cillery  Con- 
No  wonder 


CHAPTER   III. 


ONTARIO. 


Tuesday,  September  24th. — The  train  left  Montreal  at 
8  A.  M.,  and  we  were  in  it  till  11.30  at  night — a  very  long 
journey.  However,  we  had  a  most  comfortable  car, 
with  arm-chairs  and  sofas,  and  managed  to  sleep  a  good 
deal.  In  spite  of  the  lateness  of  the  hour  we  were 
met  at  Toronto  by  crowds  of  people  and  a  torchlight 
procession.  The  Lieutenant-Governor,  Mr.  Howland, 
took  us  to  his  house,  which  was  magnificently  illumi- 
nated. 

Wednesday,  2sth. — A  large  dinner-party  and  a  very 
pretty  ball,  the  house  and  grounds  being  illuminated. 

Thursday,  26th.  —  At  eleven  o'clock  we  started  by 
special  train  for  Hamilton.  It  is  a  very  prettily  situated 
town  on  Lake  Ontario,  which  looks  more  like  the  sea 
than  a  lake.  All  the  streets  are  planted  with  trees,  and 
there  is  a  high  hill  behind  the  town,  from  which  the 
view  is  magnificent.  We  were  received  at  the  station 
by  the  Mayor  and  Corporation,  who  presented  an  ad- 
dress, and  drove  to  the  Cattle  Show  yard,  where  there 
was  another,  and  I),  and  I  walked  round  the  grounds 
and  looked  at  the  animals,  while  the  people  looked  at 
us.  We  examined  prize  horses,  cows,  and  pigs,  but 
found  the  crowd  so  great  that  we  resolved  to  return  in 
the  morning  to  see  everything  more  quietly.     We  are 


38 


MY  CANADIAiy  JOURNAL. 


i  i  ii 

i 


CH.  Ill 

-ayi.>S  wUh  Mr.  MoI„„es,  .ho  ™kes  us  very  c„™,„„. 
wer^t.^":-  "  '^=  ^■^"'^'••™  "^'^.  -d 

was  finely  dressed    anH    ^^'"";-      ^  ^^^  ^hief  "Chief" 

y   uichseci,   and   wore    feathers    in    -.   k   . 
many  medals  on  his  breast      He  carmH     h      •,      '   ''"^ 
of  peace,  but  also  had  on  a  srdnin     i    v      '  '"'"'"  P'''« 
and  a  dajreer  •  inri  h  ''''"  'P'nR-kmfe,  a  tomahawk, 

auagger,  and  he  was  enchanted  when   in   nil,,.; 
to  these  weaoons    n    f^M  u-        ,        """^")  m  allusion 

chiefs  sta„d"/bv1„„l!'""^T  "■  ""■«"'"'.  ""=  other 
the  Chief  ,  Z,uued   i m"'  f ',    "'  """  ""^  "■  ''P'i''''. 

^peech.  As .;,:::  ;r,,;:r,r;er;rr  "''■': 

reception,  and  afeer„ar<l  drove  out  „  ,  I  ,  ''""""' 
place  belonging  to  Mr.  MCnnJ  The  '°'^'V°"""'^ 
and  then  hurried  off  to  the  trai"'  "'    """""• 

In  an  hour  and  a  half  we  rp-irh.^  t 
grand  and  official  recemi"    ,!ot     >         °""''  """  "■= 
h".u,r  and  the   Mayor    nuf:'  tT\  ,''  """"  '" 
drove  to  the  Town  Hall     V,„  """""'  »"''•'= 

-.h  people,  the    vi  d  w,  t    1  "^ftt^  "re  crowded 
meuted  with  flurs     Th.  '  "'"  '"""•'"  ""'a- 

arches,  and  thXhole  w?  "T"™''  ""'^""'"  "'"""P'^^' 
■nacle  quite  a  pro  ^  i  ,,7  ifr;  '''  "'  """  ""''"''■  >^= 
ing  the  wav  ,Z  .T  7'  "f  ■'="'^""'»  '•""'  carriages  lead- 
'h?  ha  I  I,  we^e^.^iir'-Tf"-"  "^  """"^  "'«  ^  "t 
n.  did  nm  lln.rhis  wrin  ,-   ""  """'"""  «l''re»»es. 

pected,  s"  he  lu  ItT.    n    J'""""  "'  "'^  ^""i™  a''  he  ex- 
pleased  his  aVrnc':  Xf  ^"^■'"""='  =""  '  "™^  "■»' 
«ter  this,  we  again  got  ,n,„  the  carriages  and  tlrove 


MrmmiiinM^ 


CH.  m 

5  very  comfort- 

tion  early,  and 
refrigerators, 

ind  received  a 
:hief  "Chief" 
in  a  hat,  and 
he  silver  pipe 
a  tomahawk, 
"»  in  allusion 
ivould   rather 

the  best  of 
'h,  the  other 
■n  D.  replied, 
itence  of  his 
^^  a  general 
^'ely  country 
we  lunched, 

ito,  and  the 
A  guard  of 
iin,  and   we 
'■re  crowded 
uses   orna- 
1  triumphal 
^ered.     We 
iages  lead- 
■  met  us  at 
addresses, 
n  as  he  ex- 
think  that 

^nd  drove 


SEPT.  1873 


NIAGARA. 


39 


to  the  hotel  through  crowds,  where  we  remained  as  the 
guests  of  the  city.  In  the  evening  twenty  of  the  Cor- 
poration dined  with  us.  I  sat  by  the  Mayor,  Mr.  Sheard 
— a  very  nice  man.  After  dinner  we  drove  out  to  see 
the  illuminations  :  there  were  some  very  pretty  ones,  and 
the  arches  looked  beautiful. 

Saturday,  2Sth. — The  weather  is  quite  splendid,  and 
the  Corporation  took  us  for  a  drive.  This  town  is  one 
of  those  wonderful  quick-growing  places  :  the  streets  are 
very  wide,  and  trees  are  planted  on  each  side  of  them. 
There  are  some  very  handsome  buildings  and  numbers 
of  the  most  charming  villas.  On  our  return,  we  had 
lunch.  Our  health  and  the  Mayor's  health  were  Irunk  ; 
and  as  the  latter  made  frequent  mention  of  me  i.s  D.'s 
"  kind  lady,"  I  am  in  hopes  I  made  an  impression, 

At  three,  D.  had  a  lev^e,  and  after  this  we  returned 
to  Government  House.  Another  dinner  of  twenty  to- 
night. 

We  are  thinking  of  spending  a  wetk  at  Niagara,  and 
wrote  to  the  hotel-keeper  there  to  ask  price  of  rooms, 
etc.  He  replied  first  to  the  business  part,  and  then 
added,  "  I  should  like  to  know  how  many  guests  His 
Excellency  will  bring  with  him,  as  I  wish  to  give  a  little 
hop  while  he  is  here,  and  I  have  to  write  for  the  music," 
etc.,  etc. 

P.  S. — "  The  hop  and  the  music  will  not  be  charged 
extra  " ! 

We  declined  the  "hop." 

Monday,  joth. — We  have  arrived  at  Niagara,  and  I 
write  to  you  in  sight  of  the  Falls.  The  spray  rises  in 
clouds  and  joins  the  other  clouds  in  the  sky,  which  has 
a  most  curious  effect,  and  there  is  a  brilliant  rainbow  in 
the  spray,  and  I  am  not  in  the  least  disappointed  with 
the  quantity  of  water,  or  with  the  size  of  the  Fall ;  but 
I  don't  think  the  first  view  of  it  is  so  overpoweringly 


40 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL, 


CH.  m 


SfL' .;™;  ai:;^t': '  ^°  "'"^  •""  ^'  -'^^ 

grandeur  of  which  wHI  ml       *'"'  "  "  "  '«'"  ""=  f"" 
Juesday,Octoberist.-~\\Q 

-;^.  .he  .r.j:r.e"HrrLr"  '""^"  - 
.-"::s":;^;:irar.hr"="^°''^--^-"^ 

"Cave  of  ,he  Winds  "    iZ  ""  ^'T'""    "  '''''  ""= 

"ally  wa,  and  ^Js.r.J^VlTl:''''  '"^  ""^''^ 
peeled  to  arrav  ourselv«  ,,  '  ""  *"<=  "- 

wi.hiaeke,sa„d'hood    ;   He's'       "  °"''°''  "™--. 

coutred  we  descended  a  mlh,  of  !,  "''""'•  '"^  - 
selves  a.  the  foot  of  a  water  aU  On''  '"1  '"""^  ""' 
-ft  Coth  shoes,  Which  en  bw'„s  to  dLbl  "'^  'f' 

Steepest   and   wettest   and   m  .  .     ,•  *"  ''°^"  ^'^e 

spray  beat  in  our  faces  "n  r         7''''^   '''''''■     '^''^e 
open  our  eyes  ^o  see  thl     f  ""l         "^  °"'^  occasionally 
and  the  grJat  hd  "    ab  v^^"''  "'"^^  '"  ^'^^  -^-' 
rushing  down.     We  climbed  in  .^  "'"^'  ^^^  ^^^^'^  --« 
small  wooden  brid/e     u'i,        '"'  "^^  ^^^-^  ^"^^^^  and 
walked  behind  it   in  a  comn,  T  ?'"'  ''  '""^  ^'^^'  ^nd 
ioyed  it  in^mens;;;.  'Z!lTe  ^'7'^^-^^^^'  ^ut  I  en- 
-ving  passed  behind  a  po    ^  7f  m'  '''  °''"  ^'^^' 
look  a  funny  yellow  n-irtv  H  ^^^^'■^-      ^^^^  did 

T/u^rsJr  l/lVeZ^'  "''P'"^  ^''h  water. 

ton,  our  Min'isler  at  vt^aThi^r "'  'j  ''^  ^^'^^^^^  ^'^-H" 
of  the  Horseshoe  VIl  vhTch  ''"'  T"^'  ^°  '""^  ^""^ 
greater  idea  of  the  ma^nitlt  ,  m  '  ^  '^'"'^''  ^'^^«  ^ 
view.     In  the  afternn  ^'''^^'"^  ^^an  any  other 

-J!l!!^:^^:^_:;^^      ^"  ^he  wh^lpoo 


Tlie  late  General   Sir  r    u    .■  ~~ 

"-.  SCO,..  .,„,  c„„„,.-l^-„^:l7:^f2;;;^;;«..-Gov.,n„,  „r 


CH.  in 

e  that  it  rather 
a  sight  the  full 
■y  by  day      Sir 

'nvent,  accom- 
3s  a  beautiful 
fter  lunch  we 
s. 

tie  rapids  and 
d  'o  visit  the 
^hat  the  Cave 

we  were  ex- 
oth  trousers, 
'•     Thus  ac- 
J  found  our- 
feet  we  had 
lb  down  the 
•ocks.      The 
occasionally 
>  the  water, 
e  water  was 
f  rocks  and 
e  Fall,  and 

;  but  I  en- 
other  side, 
•      ^Ve  did 

ird  Thorn- 
o  the  foot 
^  gives  a 
any  other 
whirljjoo! 

'overnor  of 


OCT.  187a 


BUFFALO. 


41 


and  the  rapids  below  the  Falls,  which  are  very  rapid  in- 
deed. 

We  went  by  train  to  see  a  great  engineering  work 
undertaken  by  Mr.  Gzowski.*  He  is  making  a  bridge 
over  the  Niagara,  close  to  Buffalo;  the  piers  have  to  be 
built  in  water  eighty  feet  deep,  where  the  stream  is  rush- 
ing along  twenty  miles  an  hr  ..  We  saw  the  whole 
plan — but  I  will  not  attem  !t  to  uv.cribe  anything  so 
scientific.  Colonel  Fletcher  pot  on  u  liver's  dress  and 
went  down  the  eighty  feet,  bilngmg  u?  lome  stones  from 
the  bottom. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gzowski  took  us  for  a  drive  through 
Buffalo.  There  are  miles  of  '•  street "  there,  arranged 
with  the  road  in  the  middle,  and  on  either  side  three 
rows  of  trees  and  a  broad  strip  of  grass,  in  the  center  of 
which  there  is  a  stone  footpath.  Each  house  is  a  hand- 
some "villa,"  with  a  large  piece  of  ground  round  it. 
One  gets  such  an  impression  of  wealth  and  comfort  that 
one  is  astonished,  and  this  is  a  "  third-rate  "  American 
town. 

Friday,  4th.~?>\v  Hastings  Doyle  left  us  to-day.  We 
were  very  sorry  to  part  with  him,  he  was  always  so 
cheerful  and  such  an  amusing  companion. 

Toronto:  Saturday,  ^th. — We  have  hired  a  ho'ise  at 
Toronto,  and  are  settling  ourselves  in  it  to-day.  There 
is  a  very  bad  epidemic  among  the  horses  here,  and  ours 
are  suffering  from  it  too,  which  is  inconvenient. 

Tuesday,  8th —\Nq  had  our  first  Drawing-room. 
There  were  about  1,500  pcnple  present,  and,  as  I  had  to 
courtesy  all  the  time,  I  had  plenty  of  exercise.  The 
room  looked  very  handsome  when  thus  filled  with  smart 
people.     This  was  quite  a  new  experiment  in  Canada, 


*Col.  Sir  Casimir  3.  Giowski,  K.C.  M.G.,  Hon.  A.D.C.  lo  the 
Queen. 


42 


'^''  CANADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  in 


|f 


lacrosse  match.  It  s  almost  .  ""°""  '«  «^^  ^ 
--[is  a  sort  of  idea!  foe!  ba  r  ^t2^  ^^"^  '^-•^' 
racket  and  thrown   from  on.  c  "  "'^"^''^^  ^'"  a 

-^y  P^etty  and  ^Z^Z  iti'  ^  "'^^-  '^  ^ 
wlHtes  ...nv,.  Indians.  The  iatt!.  ^  \''^  ^'"""^  was 
tiance  before  we  left.  "^"""^^  "^  ^''^ir  war- 

9  A.M.,  and  on  our  w^tf^r  ""  '^''  ^"^""^^  ^^ 
«tc>clc  to  receive  addresses  T  '"  """  ''"'^'^'^  ^'  ^^^">^1- 
very  prettily  arran.red'  i„,'  '  ''''"""  ^'  ^'"'-'"n  was 
were  present,  and  gave  us  a  v'"''  '"'"^^^^''^  "^  P^^P'e 
^'-ve  to  the  Cattle^'Sh  ,w  ?.r  r',""'":^"'^^''^'--  '^^« 
'•>^J^i'-esses,  and  where    h^  V '-•"'.  where  there  were  more 

-^  --  in  trem:::,:;;  s:  ^rv'-  '-'-^^ 

we  saw  very  little.  '^''  "^^^^^  "-S  so  that 

« "-rci.n«h.  proei^i,  '";•;::,'  ^;::  ^^»■•^  "'■"  '■■"-'•«d 

canillf,  and  r„ck«s      11,.],^^  I    '    'V""''"'''    "1'    «'>"«„ 
Party..„„l,„,„|,|,/   ''Y'^  .«  <^  "en,  will,  „  ,„^„ 

'"""i;->i"ck,  black,  ,,n,  ',;:,'„",:"  t  '""""•'"  •"= 

saw  then     <•  i      ,         "".xtd   with   water     vv«  ..i... 

^-Kmjf  tor  a  well,  ..sinking  a  shaft." 


CH,  m 
•e,  and  it  seems 

m  the  fatigues 
moon  to  see  a 
^'  game  here, 
'  caught  on  a 
other.  It  is 
e  game  was 
us  their  war- 

'■  Toronto  at 
'ed  at  Wood- 
I-ondon  was 
■s  of  people 
^'Ption.     We 

were  more 
the  pahngs 

"«,  so  that 

dy  Harriet 
entertained 
>  some  oil- 
;>«!  finished 
'P   Konian 
'>all,  I  was 
'i<»t<.'l,  and 
le,  "  Well, 


OCT.   1873 


PETROLIA. 


43 


xceli 


ency 


'  ^  large 
i  of  "  pe- 
"I'gh  the 
We  also 
■•»  shaft," 


t-'* 
I 


and  all  the  machinery  used.  The  oil  leaves  Petrolia 
free  from  water,  but  black  and  thick  :  the  refining  is 
done  at  London.  The  oil  district  is,  of  course,  ugly, 
the  ground  black  and  swampy.  Stumps  of  trees  and 
wooden  erections — some  like  enormous  barrels — c(  er 
the  whole  place,  but  it  was  very  interesting  to  see  it. 
On  our  way  back  we  were  shown  into  a  "drawing- 
room  "  car,  where  we  found  about  twenty  tables  laid, 
each  one  for  two  people.  We  had  an  excellent  hot  lunch 
cooked  on  board,  and  got  back  to  London  at  three  ^  lock. 
Here  the  party  left  us,  and  we  returned  to  Toronto. 

Saturday,  12th. —  Lady  Harriet  and  I  inspected  an 
orphan  home,  examining  everything  from  garret  to 
basement.  On  the  way  we  passcil  a  large  house  mov- 
ing to  some  other  site.  It  was  on  rollers,  and  was  go- 
ing slowly  along  the  street. 

A  ditiner-party  closed  the  day. 

7'iifsday,  /f//'. — 1).  and  I  drove  to  see  a  fine  Wesleyan 
church.  In  the  same  l)uilding,  forming  part  of  the  archi- 
tectural effect  outside,  but  separate  inside,  there  are 
Sunday-school  and  Committee  rooms.  Then  we  went 
on  to  Hishoj)  Strachan's  Church  of  Kngland  Ladies' 
School.  We  liked  all  we  saw  there  very  much.  The 
girls  played  and  sang  and  read  to  us.  and  as  thev  had 
decorated  their  bedrooms  we  had  to  go  into  each  one. 

U'fihifsifay,  t6th, — At  eleven  our  duties  began  again, 
and  we  visited  the  Normal  and  Model  Schools.  These 
are  the  National  Schools  of  Canada,  and  members  of  all 
denominations  met  us,  the  Knglish  clergyman  introdiic- 
ii»g  the  R.  C,  Mishop.  This  afternoon  I  have  been  to 
two  orphan  asylums,  this  evening  to  a  charity  concert. 

Thursday,  ijtfi.—h\y  children  and  my  brother  Fred  * 


•  I.leul.-Colonpl  F.  Rownn  llnmlltnn.  Into  ijlh  Foot,  who  wm  with 
tt«  as  A.  I).  C.  in  t'nnmla  uml  Indiu.— II    I).  &  A. 


44 


^i^cw.v^/;/^^v/c;r^A^.,y:. 


CH.  lu 


!     I 


sail  for  Canad,.  to-day      h   F        ,  , 
usual  hour  of  eleven,  and  n.id  a  vi    .      ^'"^  ""'  ''  ^^e 
one  of  the  first-fruit    of  d'set'h    T    '"  '""''>'  ^^""^^e> 
Pecally  a  Church  of  Kn^Td       '      "'"' '''"^'  '^  '«  ^- 
--  read  and  answered  ^.^en^'l'^^^'^^"     ^^  address 
^'-^  v.s.ted  the  lii^rary,  which  ^  "'''""'  '''''  "'^'^^*.  and 
-^  ^-ve  to  the  lunatic     ;/2'^^  '^"^  -all.     Then 
a  very  fine  one.  with  broad  cornd      ^'""]  '"''  ''■     ''  '« 
comfortable  recesses,  in  whi^h  th     ''  ^'^^"'"^  ""t  into 
e'Kl  of  the  passage  is  a  co  e  'V      ""''^''  "'•     ^^^  ^ach 
-"nd,  but  otherwise  open  to  the'   "'"."'''''  '''^"^^'  •"' 
^a"  walk,  and  which  provid  s  1  ,  'r'  ""'''''  '''  '""^ates 
^ach  floor.     One  new  featur.  i'  '"'  "^"'"'^  "^  airing 
^  7-t.nent,  which  is  of^Z     T  "^'''"'"  ''^  ''^  ^'^'^'4 
-"  ^''<^  comforts  of  a  private  a     ,'V'''"^'^^''  ''  ''as 
party  of  twenty-four /onWi     ?'"'";  ,  '''  ''''^  ^'  ''''--- 
gentlemen,  two   R   c  hi.l.  '   "       f       '"  ''''^'-''  ^^^o  kyal 
-"•-r  of  a  newspape     w  IThi'  '"'""'^^^  -'""^1.  tVe 
-^"^^  for  us,  son,e  'nl"  !r''^  ''"'^  -''^'  -ho 

«"'"c  of  the  IJoard  of  Trade  '  ^'"^'^rnment,  and 

«■«  an  adUros.,  m;,,; '       ;!™;V" '"=  °'^  """  'o  re- 
""ed  10  be  called  "  V„rk  "  „„  '"'"'■"''  "-T»r"n.o 

h"=.    After  l„„eh  we  wen         iT;""  *"=  «-'  «'"". 

«s  llllcl  With  a  ,  ,„e  Cr  t,  ■;  T"'^"-     •'''"■  '■"" 

'  «  proceed,.,.,  wen,  c^  -c  vT'n  "■';"'""  "'™'  ""J 
}*«  for  presen.,-a  v  r^  Herd  ""'  ''  ■•■  "'•''" 
<"'<'■  flower,,  !,„„„,  fa.cvbr  ','""'""'■      '   ''"ve 

1"-  <ons,nn,ly.     N...,  ,;    vJry  Z  k      '  "'"  """■«  '="' 
,T"'  Show  ,e„t  „,e  ,,™|!rif7      "*»  """^  ""'""It. 

•■'"".  arranged  .„  a,  '^  I nv '      '"""'~'  ''''  "'  "'* 
year.  '''""  "ome  every  day  of  the 

^     '••"'""'=""""<"""  wen.  for  a  „„ 


//.. 


CH.  Ill 


-vent  out  at  the 
Trinity  College, 
'^  'lere;  it  is  es- 
^y-     An  address 
^vcre  made,  and 
J  sma;i.     Then 
■  "ver  it.     It  is 
'eningout  into 
-  s't-     At  each 
eck,  barred  all 
'■*-'  t'le  inmates 
fans  of  airing 
"Ji  is  a  ])aying 
"^"I'^^'i  it  has 
^''itl  a  dinner- 
'fe,  two  legal 
t-'olonel,  the 
t'e  wife,  who 
'■"nient,  and 

^'  Hall  to  re- 
—  Toronto 
first  settlers 
y.  where  D. 
The  hall 
f  Toronto; 
'  t'lem,  and 
'*  a  great 
I   have 
ifnme  sent 
e  offering. 
V  of  each 
ay  of  the 

for  a  sail 


OCT.  18-3 


"A'OT  A7'  HOME." 


45 


with  1).,  and  in  the  evening  we  had  a  large  party  of 
al)(>iit  150  people. 

Monday,  21st. — This  morning  we  inspected  some  Ro- 
man Catholic  Schools.  The  first  place  we  went  to  was 
the  Convent  of  the  "  Precious  lUood  '  I  think  I  told 
you  about  this  order  of  praying  nuns — it  is  very  strict, 
and  they  use  corporal  self-punishments.  The  dress  of 
the  nuns  is  beautiful — a  white  dress,  with  a  btnul  piece 
of  blood-red  colored  cashmere  hanging  straight  down 
both  the  back  and  the  front  of  it,  and  a  black  veil  on 
the  head.  Their  beds  art^  boards,  and  they  get  up  twice 
in  the  night  to  pray.  They  looked  very  well,  and  (piite 
merry.  The  second  place  was  a  college  for  boys,  and 
the  third  a  convent  school.  We  al.so  went  to  look  at  the 
cathedral. 

Iheif  happened  a  great  coftlretrmps  this  afternoon. 
I  was  to  be  at  home  to  receive  visitors ;  so  I.ady  Harriet 
and  I  sat  in  state,  and  nobody  camel  At  five  1).  re- 
turned home,  and  I  said  to  him,  "Not  a  single  soul  has 
come  to  see  us."  Tea  came  in,  and  he  asked,  "  Has 
nobody  called  ?"  "  Oh,  yes,"  said  the  servant,  "but  I 
said,  '  Not  at  home.'  "  We  sent  for  the  book,  and  found 
104  people  hail  been,  so  we  had  to  sit  down  and  write 
104  notes  to  explain.  I  had  a  dinner-part}  in  the  even- 
ing, and,  luckily,  no  one  seems  to  have  been  offended, 
though  our  conduct  did  look  rude  this  afternoon. 
We  had  a  great  deal  of  music  after  dinner.  All  the 
young  ladies  sing  and  play  without  their  music,  and  are 
very  good-natured  about  it. 

Wednesday^  ijd. — D.  visited  the  National  Schools  in 
the  morning,  and  after  lunch  I  went  with  him  to  finish 
the  Roman  Catholic  institutions.  We  drove  to  the  I,o- 
retto  Abbey  Convent,  where  the  girls  were  dressed  in 
white  and  blue.  They  gave  ub  a  little  cr»ncert,  and  then 
all  passed  round,  each  making  a  courtesy  to  us,    Wc  were 


46 


f    i 


* 


^'y  CA.VADi^jv  JOUKKAL. 


'^den  with  bouquet,  and  ,h 

!''•'«     a:,  a  ■■  House  of  vlT  )  '"'"'>'''■      '''I'':  next 

'"".^.  or,>l,.„.  and   si^k    a 'e  fn""'"  ^"""'  "'".■"-- 
V-.  «s   o  a  b„,v  .eh';,":  ,      ,=;-.^  '-;     T„e  ,hi,, 
'/""-JVl/r,  ^^«,__I  „„,,       ""^^ '-'"•istun  Brother, 
"■is  n,or„i„g4  n„e  S,":"  '^  ■''"™""'  "-.-  , 
'«ly  off  for  f„„d,      p  't  f  ;;"  "";"  """aged,  but 
,ash,„„able  young  ladies'scroir'  ^^     '"  ""^P"^"  '« 

'^^^i  two  ballrooms  bolh  I  '"  ^'overnmcnt.     We 

^^f  crimson  drapery,  "^  ornamented  with  a  good  deal 
-7  -n.     T,le  fu;       r:^  t^'-^'^^  Winch  i^hted    , 

he    arrangements,  atd       opl     r\"?  ""^  ^  ^'^^'h  i„ 
i'-^^h.      I  danced  all   the    I'uL    >  '""^  '"''    ^"^ 

f '■>"-«.  vvith   a  selection  of 'ceil  >■'"''"'  '''"^  ^^-  ^'very 
g'amme  was  over  «f      1       ''^''''"■'t'es.     When  the  nr 

^^-  'lad  to  be  off  f«  „      ,, 

>::  Xi'^::!:'-  ^•"■•"■"-"Jrl,,  '::,•;"-■  >■'".  -.= 

J"«*fe8   salaries;   (h,«  ,.f  "*^  '"vvness  of 

<•■"'  were  very  gh,d  t.,  h™       "'"""'  "«••  ™'"Pany  prel 

^''«"'Pour  and  they  hall;  be:^!'!::.'^"' ^''^-^  is  a  stel^ 


P"l  off  tiJl  M 


•ady 
""day.     I 


'AL, 


Cil.  HI 


OCT.  187a 


SUNDAY  SCHOOLS. 


47 


^ere  ornamented 
'^'^''''-  The  next 
«'''f're  old,  incur- 

f"---     The  third 
"•istian  brothers 
oronto  Hospital 
U  managed,  but 

to  inspect  two 
'  "ot  home  yet. 

^s  a  great  sue- 
'i  't  took  place, 
t'ernment.     We 
'i  ^  good  deal 
'^'h  lighted   up 


rs.     I 


suppose 


'ot  a  hitch  \n 
ery  nice   and 
ind  D.  every 
'•t-'"  the  pro- 
was  played, 
e  passed  out 

'lis  'norning, 
^e,  when   we 
''''ing,  "Os- 
''t'»er  than 
'«•    We  had 
'"<-•  blot  he 
'owness  of 
ipany  pres. 


-n  athletic 

<  a    str.'nli, 

/ 

onday.     J[ 


.^( 


received  a  good  many  farewell  visits,  and  in  the  evening 
we  went  to  a  pertormaiue  at  the  theatre  for  the  I'rutes- 
tant  orphans.  The  theatre  is  small,  but  very  pretty,  and 
"London  Assurance"  was  very  well  given— especially 
the  part  of  Lady  Gay  Spanker,  by  Mrs.  Morrison.  She 
presented  me  with  a  spU-iidid  bouquet  in  which  my 
monogra.n  was  made  in  shamrocks. 

StiHiiiiv,  2/th. — This  morning,  at  ten,  we  visited  a  Sun- 
day-school. Very  great  attention  is  paid  to  Simday- 
schools  in  Canada,  and  the  children  of  all  classes  attend 
them.  There  was  a  separate  room  for  infants,  and  the 
man  teaching  them  gave  his  instruction  orally  and  with 
a  blackboard,  upon  which  he  wrote:  the  children  an- 
swered all  together,  and  seemed  bright  and  intelligent. 
They  also  sang  hymns.  The  larger  children  were  down- 
stairs. I),  made  them  a  little  address,  and  we  heard 
them  sing  too,  which  they  do  extremely  well.  This  was 
the  cathedral  school,  and  the  average  attendance  every 
Sunday  is  500.  There  is  a  class  every  week  for  the 
teachers,  and  the  same  lesson  is  given  all  over  the  school. 

M >ni/uv,  2Sth.—\\'ii  left  Toronto  at  nine,  and  a  num- 
ber of  people  came  to  see  us  off,  and  cheered  our  depart- 
ing train.  We  had  a  twelve  hours'  journey,  and  were 
glad  to  reach  Ottawa. 

Ottaiva  :  Tui\u/(iy,  2()th. — My  poor  children  have  had  a 
very  long  journey :  they  arrived  at  Quebec  on  Monday, 
after  a  rough  passage  from  Liverpool,  and  did  not  get 
here  till  this  evening,  when  I  devoted  myself  to  giving 
them  tea,  putting  them  to  bed,  and  hearing  them  cha  i'  •. 

Wfifnfsday^joth. — The  weather  is  perfectly  lovely,  and 
the  children  are  well  and  enjoying  the  fine  day. 

Mr.  Coidson  goes  on  leave,  so  Fred  at  once  begins  his 
duties  as  A.  D.  C,  but  he  comes  in  for  a  time  of  rest. 


M' 


CHAPTER   IV. 

very  duJi,  /  .e^r      yvT  ''^  J^"'""^'*'  her,,  u.;/, 

,      Ottawa  is  a  small  t  ^ 

"">es  „f  ehe  year.  """'  "'=)'  "ay  be  i„  a,  other 

'  "e  s-eiillemen  trv  .„     j 

]  h'"  comes  of  my  Irish  f.  ^'•««si"gs.- 

• '^^-"-tiy  after  lunch.  Fred  ar,.n.,.„ 


NOV.  1873 


RIDE  A  U  HALL. 


49 


here  will  ffrow 
"'    and  do  very 

ousJy  f.eautiful 
^ery  bad  road 
•-storied    villa, 
a  hedge  which 
It  at  this  time 
^-     ^V'hcn  the 
'es,  and  when 
^^  Jndepend- 
nakes  the  in- 
^  Jn  at  other 

i  come  back 
"ic  day  with 
the  evening 

of  our  fine 
town.  v,he 
'.  and      . ;, 


t?  i  \n 


^an 


our  duties.  I  was  '<  at  home,"  and  he  announced  the 
visitors  and  helped  me  to  talk  to  them.  We  had  108.  I 
was  pleased  with  the  society,  and  Ottawa  itself  improves 
on  ac(]uaintance,  especially  as  I  have  discovered  a 
nice  common  and  wood  behind  the  house,  where  the 
children  will  be  very  happy.  Mr.  Archibald,*  Lieuten- 
ant-Governor of  Manitoba,  and  the  Pattissons  dined 
with  us. 

In   addition    to  his  social  duties,  Fred  has  to  look 
after  all  the  stable  matters,  expenditure  included,  after 
the  invitations,  the   amusements,  such  as  skating-rink 
etc.,  etc.,  so  he  is  not  idle.  * 

Tuesday,  j///.— The  little  ones,  Basil  and  Hermie,  ar- 
rived from  Quebec,  looking  well  and  merry.  It  is  nice 
to  be  all  together  again. 

Saturday,  p///.— The  weather  is  lovely,  and  I  gener 
ally  walk  in  and  out  of  town.     After  lunch,  games  of 
football,  stilts,  hoops,  etc.,  go  on.     We  have  five-o'clock 
tea,  and  family  gatherings,  the  babies  first,  and  then  the 
<?/r/ children. 

The  house  gets  on  very  slowly ;  the  hall  door  is  st.ll 
boarded  up.  the  .schoolroom  full  of  workmen  who  do  not 
vv.,rk  the  gas-p.pes  still  innocent  of  gas.  I  suppose  we 
hall  be  settled  by  January.  The  Fletchers'  hoL  will. 
I  hope  be  ready  for  them  in  a  few  days,  and  whe.i  the; 
get  mto  .t  we  shall  feel  more  settled  ourselves.  At 
present  they  are  staying  with  us. 

Sunday    ,oth.-\S^   went   to  our  verv  small   parish 
church  at  New  Edinburgh.     It  is  very  pru^itive.  I't  we 

cathedral"'''"''  """"^  ''  ''  '"  "'"'''  "'"■"■  '"  "'  '''^'"  ^''« 

Afonday   rrth.-^^  took  a  walk   to  prepare  for  the 

labors  of  the  afternoon.     Between  three  and  five  I  re- 


'  Sir  Adams  George  Archibald,  K.  C.  M.  O. 


so 


""  ^■^^'^I'r^.v  foa^^,,^ 


i 


;^.^'^«dr44  Visitors;  Fred    I  .w     x. 

^'««°"  helping  n.e.         ^'  '^^^>'  ^---net,  and  Mrs  Pa, 

Thursday^   /^///.-This   i.  T.  " 

went  to  ciiurrh  n.  .i  ^^^^nks^ivinrr  n. 

-^)  -e  did  it  ,'^   ^  ^•'^^'^^dral,  but^(as   t  J'  ^"  "« 

snow  fel,.  ''"     ""ostentatious  n^anner  '  '  rT'  '''' 

p  -J  ^''        X  ne  first 

S^und  and  ,ree»  wlVi.et     ■''"  '"''"   ''"'■"   Oa y     .h. 

•"mhled  about  i„      a'  ,h '""':  "'  "  "'•'"  ""y  or/n«f' ? 
^'O"  should  se    , t^'^    "  -™  sand'       '"°"''  """ 

^"  ifoniff  out  here  is  fh  °^'-     '^''^^  "nly  driwhT 

do  fn  ,.  -^  the  amount  nf  ,?       .    ^  ^"^'^wback 

-^-^psw.h;:;:.t-r;--heputot^;^ 

f/^  •-•«  possible,  fur  coats  f,  '''*^  "^'^'^  ^''em  as  becom- 
^^"t  ;nce  out  it  is  ,e,i^,,;     '  '  ^''^^'^^  '"•"fs.  etc.,  etc 

.     ^^'^'  'lave  been  tc.bLl. '    •  i       ,"'"''  ^■^•'"•'arating 
"<^ep  yet    anH  ""ffW^aninjir  thoutrh  fii«  . 

We  sit  V;.^     ""'  P""^^^*^"*  efforts  J.  '""^  ''^  ""t 

J^«   't.  stand,  or  he  on  a  strait  k        ^^'"^  ^"'ateurish 
'''  ^'  -^  -d.  and  shde  do;?l:?::i;:f '-"s  curlei 

'^  -rtrrcd  hills.     The 


AL. 

-^  and  Mrs.  Pat. 

'"8^  ^ay,  so  we 
s  the  papers  telj 

ner."     'ru^  c 

ine  first 

^  Australia,  the 
''^dat  9.iothis 
"^'^t-      Rather 
^^'a   re-echoes 
'I  Empire." 

'^'^  tJay:  the 
y.  and  bri;^i,t 
'  ^ere  unable 

of  snow,  and 

coats,  which 
■Paulets  and 
d   with   red. 
'^e  httle  n^. 
'n"e.     T..ey 
ds  if  neces- 
^'ley  are  of 
'th  a  flower 
'  fJrawback 
""e  has  to 
"«■«,  over- 
o"  ;  there 
as  becom- 

efc.,  etc. 

'w  is  not 
ateurish. 
is  curled 
's.     The 


NOV.  1873 


TOBOGGANING. 


51 


children  enjoy  it  immensely,  and  have  splendid  exercise 
pulhng  their  little  sleighs,  or  toboggans,  up  the  hill 
again. 

The  "Black  Rod,"  Mr.  Kimber,  was  one  of  our 
guests  at  dmner  to-night.  He  sang  us  one  of  Figaro's 
songs,  acting  it  with  great  spirit,  and  amusing  us  very 
much.  He  also  sang  some  very  pretty  Canadian  boat- 
songs.  Another  guest  was  Miss  Griffin,  a  lady  who 
acted  m  a  play  with  Dickens  at  Montreal  twenty  years 
ago. 

Wednesday,  20//1.-D.,  Colonel  Fletcher,  Fred,  and  Mr 
Campbell  (D.'s  short-hand  writer,  and  a  very  favorite 
member  of  the  Staff),  went  to  Montreal. 

Saturday,  2jd.~l  had  a  long  letter  from  D.,  giving 
me  an  account  of  his  doings.  After  a  long  journey  on 
Wednesday,  they  reached  Montreal  in  the  evening  and 
were  conducted  by  the  Mayor  and  Sir  Hugh  Allan  to 
the  latter's  house. 

On  Thursday  D.  unveiled  the  Queen's  statue,  and  in 
the  evenmg  he  danced  all  night  at  a  ball,  never  flagging 
till  four  in  the  morning,  and  being  pronounced  "a  brick  " 
by  the  young  ladies  of  Montreal.  He  had  a  dinner  at  a 
club  on  Friday,  and  returned  here  to-day,  fatigued  but 
pleased.  We  are  both  going  to  Montreal  in  January  for 
a  "  season." 

Wednesday,  ^/M.-We  are  gradually  settling  down  in 
our  house,  and  are  dragging  from  obscure  packing-cases 
the  few  ornaments  that  have  emigrated  with  us.  I  have 
set  up  a  boudoir,  and  in  it  I  put  all  my  favorite  things, 
so  as  to  have  one  home-like  sanctum.  The  state-rooms 
continue,  I  fear,  to  have  a  hopelessly  company  look. 

We  had  a  dinner  >arty  of  twenty-six,  a  great  number 
a  Ministers  amoi  g  them.  There  is  no  clock  (going)  in 
th."  drawmK-room,  so  my  guests  fidgeted  oft  before  ten, 
and  had  to  wait  in  the  cloak-room  for  their  carriages. 


W^ 


52 


My 


•''^"'AN  JOVKXAL. 


I      I 


"■h^""- person  „„,„,^^^.    ' 

"'■re  was  snow  i„  ,!,„  ,f,. 
;P  «  >c  do.,We  wincow,'";?,":™-"-  """  >-'  "=  Seu.ng 
"ira  »„,dows,  but  stuff  c„ti„„-      '  ,"     ""•  ""'  ""ly  U.c 
•"'-  houses  are  very  hit         "  "■°"'  ""°  "-^  crevice 

;  "ve  in  a  sleig,,.    j  ,„i„k~iV''^\'';-'>'  '  "■™'  '""•  ■"-  first 
"■"^  -  a  iittle  n,ore  snow    ,'t    '  nf  "  '">'  "■"^'>  -I.en 
I  «-ll  tell  you  I,,       _  ''  '*  ratlier  rough  at  present 

'-afefast  at  nine,  then    eparaf  T  "'""""y  "'y-     >  'e 
""d  places  of  business      F.   .        "  ""^  >'='"ous  offices 
^"'erward  helps  to  wr he  f„       ^"^  '°  "'=  tables  and 
-""anagestL  soc^?^  "r""'"'  "^Sh  Mr  c„^ 
8°  "«o  town.     We  lun'h  ^r    ""'     ^'  "'''"  '"ey  a, 
generally  alone,  the  ^e„^^         ""'-'he  children  ami 
,Afer  lunch  we  go  ou         T  "'""'"^wLen  thevl    / 
'»'"■  I  ■h..k,  we  sha    ha  e   '7;f ""  "  '^  ^  "uty,  but 
"ur  return  we  have  tea  and  h  ""  '"■'  "'  "oors     On 

a    ?.3o.     The  Fletchers'  c^'^f  ''  """  ^^"^'"' :  dinne 
°ne  or  two  large  dinners  Te  v  wee"t  ""  "=  ""«  -"■« 

'""^-     One's  foot  loo£    ike  /"T?'"'''  '"■•  ">e  firs, 
'arge  racket,  ai       I  .  ^     '"  '"  the  center     r 

-'""-^ "" 'f,nd  t  :•;,';.:'="  •"  '"p  up .  ;  ti 

very  amusing.     With.,  ,  '7^:7  '°  T^"''  '^''"  ">™.  and 
"'"Idle  of  the  beat..,  track    n,,™"  "'^  '"  '"  P  in  '  e 

;Td  ^'t   "■'  f-  '-vit';:^  '-■^^  •^-*"ah,  are  stay- 
»"d  m  the  afternoon  we  all  L     /  '      '"•  »  "leigh-drive 

One  ::^'r'''"'-■•«^•-es::■ '-----"- 


CH.  iV 

"d  it  is  useless  to 

'd  we  are  getting 
avf  not  only  tlie 
to  every  crevice. 

^•<^"t  for  my  first 
■'eryniuch  w]^^^ 
^"gh  at  present, 
"ary  day.     \\q 

/arious  offices 
le  stabJes,  and 
"S^h  Mr.  Coul- 
-feven  they  alJ 
hi'dren   and   i 
hen  they  Jikg. 
'^  a  duty,  but 
)f  doors.     On 
^•■en ;  dinner 
2  have  either 

for  the  first 
center  of  a 
"1   niy  own 
h  them,  and 
'*' P  ill  the 
with  th';ia 

"'  are  stay- 
"ff  I  ('-ok 
e'fh-drive, 
"ff  dinner- 

■mploying 
:  tol(!  me 


DEC.  1S72  CANADIA.y  CELEBRITIES. 

that  when  he  came  here  himself  he  earned  ten  shillings 
a  month  Mr.  Tod,  the  librarian  here,  was  another 
guest.  He  ,s  the  author  of  the  best  book  on  the  British 
Constitution.  Then  there  was  a  railway  celebritv.a 
very  nice  man,  who  got  out  of  a  sick  bed  to  come  •  he 
brought  with  him  a  pleasant  sister-in-law  and  a  very 
pretty  daughter.  Sir  Hugh  Allan  also  duud  with  u^ 
and  Sir  Francis  Hincks. 

Saturday,  7///.-Lady  Macdonald  left,  and  I  went  out 
to  .<ee  some  tobogganing.     The  high  hill  .s  sufficiently 
covered  with  snow  now,  and  the  children  are  very  brave 
about  going  down  it.     They  start  at  the   top  and  go 
bumpmg   and    jumping  all    the   way  down,  sometimes 
tumbling  over  into  the  snow  at  the  bottom,  and  some- 
ti,a.s  going  along  the  level  ground  for  a  good  distance 
.    1  c     ly  they  looked  so  odd,  all  covered  with  snow  while 
thege-lemen-s  beards,  eyelashes,  and  hair,  had  the  snow 
froz.  o  them.    The  thermometer  was  10°  below  zero, 

but  the  day  ■  .s  bright,  and  wc  did  not  feel  the  cold  at 
all.  loil.n,  the  hill  and  pulling  the  toboggan  after 
one,  IS  hard  work. 

Mon^iay  gth.^On^  of  my  e.xhausting  "at  home  " 
days.  My  labors  began  at  ,.30,  for  I  had  the  managers 
of  a  concert  I  am  getting  up  to  lunch,  and  went  on'  till 
s.x-a  steady  flow  of  visitors.  It  was  a  very  cold  dav- 
luckilyfor  the  conversation  required  of  me-and  ninetv- 

d"!! ;::""?■?/''  "  "^^  ^"'^  y-'  ^^^^  ^^ve  found  your 
drive!  did  I  invent.  On  these  occasions  D.  comes  in 
when  all  ,s  over  and  asks  •<  what  news  we  have  heard  " 
and  we  always  have  to  say  that  we  have  heard  nothing. 
I  generally  keep  Mon.iay  evening  sacred  to  repose,  but 
-day  we  were  <  Miged  to  invite  travelers,  and  two 
lorontonians,  the  Pattissons  and  Fletchers  making  up 
twelve.  Our  tourists  came  to  Aiaerira  fn.  ten  m-  •  -h 
D      have  found  traveling  so  very  expensive  that  they 


:  >  ii 


54 


^/K  C^A'W^y^^VV06'A>.r^Z. 


CH.  IV 


have  to  hurry  home  at  the  end  „f  , 

-day.  at  a  N..  Yor^llZ'^Z     ^''"  ""'  '" 
■Tuesday,  I oth~-.\\    i,,  i  '*='  'So^- 

-me  and  toboggan  and  it  "J' 7'  ''"'  ^'^""^  ^-^  to 

J^nglish  hats!-vvhen  /]-,!,  i  T  ^'"'''''  ^'^'^  ^oots. 
o^  cloth  with  ind,a.  b  :  J"  ^'T  ^""^^^^'  ^^'^ 
are  necessary,     i  o„]v  u         f'    "^  ^'°^^^'  ^"^  fur  hats 

>-^-s-"  oL  /ooth'  fooCror"'  '^'  '^'^  "p  --^ 

'"  the  carriage  with  cot  ?         ^^'^  '^'^^  ^ame  out 

^ad  a  fearfufattack  o  ^.^^^  ^"^  ^-^'^^  '^"ots,  has 
and  two  Sisters  of  Mercv  .r  .  '"^""^"^^^"''y  ''heumatism, 
day,  Terence,  having  a  hole  i""'  ""'""^  ^^'"^-  ^^^^^^- 
ho'»e  with  his  fingfr  frost  bt.  ""  °'  '"  ^^°^^^'  -'- 
-■spicious  White  spots  nie'f:::  '"'  ^''^"^  ^^^  ^^o 
with  snow,  and  are  all  right  '      ''^  ''^'^  '""^^^^ 

«-'":ri^'re-hVrarr''°"'-^-"--e- 

0"awa  weeks.     After    he  WeSre'lT  h'  ■""  "«"'" 
"■gilt;  the,,  a  visit  from  ,   J  ^"  '''""'='■  a  quiet 

and  Mrs.  Tupper  who  "'""  ='"''  1"^  wife,  Dr  • 

•he  next  nighff:m:or:;re'  *"%"*'"  ^  ^-^  '^  ^ 
-ur  Langevin,  and  Mr.  M  s"h„°"'  "J'^-«°"- 

preferred  returning  home  to  .,f         ?" '  "'"'=  '»"" 
liked  their  own  stove  side  or  h    '''  ""^  '"=<=^"^e  they 

____  J_^^_o^  out-door  nnk,  and   find  it 


\:4 


\      I' 


III 


""  CH.  IV 

Their  bill  for 

young:  men  to 
-26  to  look  at 
•s,    thin  boots, 
trousers,  boots' 
5»  and  fur  hats 
'  laid  up  with 
■ho  came  out 
ler  boots,  has 
'  rheumatism, 
I'm.     Yester- 
gloves,  came 
"y   had  two 
were  rubbed 

skating-:  the 
rink.  The 
snow  hard 

nner  in  the 

=»"r  regular 
ler  a  quiet 
wife,  Dr.* 
and  a  visit 
'ife~Mon- 
lese  latter 
:ause  they 
:t  day  was 
olentpoli- 
as  a  prob- 

id  find  it 


DEC.  1872 


MAKING  A   RINK. 


55 


rather  troublesome  to  manage.  An  Englishman  ex- 
claims, "Flood  it!"  but  this  is  just  the  difficulty,  for 
the  water  freezes  as  it  touches  the  ice,  and  will  not 
"  flood  it "  ;  and  if,  by  having  a  circle  of  barrels  round 
the  space  and  upsetting  them  all  at  the  same  time,  we 
do  succeed  in  covering  it  with  water,  and  go  happy  to 
bed  dreaming  of  beautiful  ice  and  a  capital  skate,  we 
wake  in  the  morning  to  find  either  that  it  has  snowed, 
or  that  the  wind  has  blown  old  snow  over  the  rink, 
which  a  ray  of  sunshine  having  partially  melted,  has 
stuck  hard  to  our  lovely  ice,  and  there  we  are  longing  to 
skate  and  obliged  to  begin  "■  au  dduge  "  again. 

Wednesday,  iSt/i.—\Nt  had  a  ball.  The  room  was 
well  lighted  and  looked  well,  the  supper  (by  the  new 
cook)  was  very,  good,  and  I  hope  every  one  was  happy. 
Sir  Hugh  and  Miss  Allan  arrived  for  it,  and  remain  till 
Saturday !  Colonel  Fletcher  was  told  that  "  Mr.  Hamil- 
ton will  be  spoiled  here,  people  like  him  so  much." 

Friday,  2oih.—K  great  snowstorm.  I  was  to  have 
gone  to  a  mission  service  in  church,  but  I  could  not  face 
the  weather.  D.  did  go,  and  afterward  inspected  the 
Christian  Brothers'  school,  received  addresses,  etc. 

Monday,  23d. — This  morning  we  visited  the  Grey 
Sisters,  and  saw  their  school.  Then  I  came  home  and 
arranged  my  concert-room  with  stage,  etc. 

The  Belgian  Minister  at  Washington  arrived  in  time 
for  an  early  dinner,  and  is  staying  with  us.  At  eight 
the  singers  arrived,  and  began  to  dress,  and  at  8.30  the 
listeners  came  pouring  in,  were  cordially  greeted  by  His 
Ex.  and  Her  Ex.  at  the  door,  and  were  seated  by  oblig- 
ing A,  D.  C.'s  and  secretaries. 

The  music  began  at  nine— it  really  was  very  good, 
and  the  acting  admirable  !  The  costumes  were  perfect, 
and  every  one  was  delighted  with  the  two  hours'  amuse- 
ment. 


56 


^^y  CAA'AD/AJ^  yoc 


'^^'AL. 


^  allowed  the  three  ch 


en.  IV 


enjoyed  it  immensely 


garo,"  and 


'I 


ildren 


^-^rence  wa 


ey 


to  '>e  present,  and  th 
-  was  in  fits  over  «  V 

''P^^  at  eleven,  and  the 


great  anxiety   th 


wh 


ole  entertainment 


faces, 


Ttu'Sihiy,  24t/i.^o^ 


was  considered 


W 


two  knees,  and 


th 


IS 


really 


a  great  success. 


IS  cold ;  t 


e  are  22°  below 


'^"^'  ''"ger  frozen 


>n  which  we  wall 


^ero,  and  are  d 


ow.     I, 


ev 


are  very  thankful  to  think 
cold  we  need  expect  here. 


'  -'^Pite  of  thi 


that 


we 


wo  ears,  two 
'"  our  family 
voted  to  our  clouds' 
"■^  ^^'e  skate,  but 
are  feeling  the 


We 
Worst 


C/irislmas  Day  ~^'vu,',^ 
*-  •-!>-»,  a,K,  nu^r       -  '::  *■'•'  •"  '■•"-•I.  in  seJ- 

=ncl  my  clu„d,  fur  sauntlots   ",.   ;,    V"^''--  "^^  ">y  cloak, 

""c  ■"  l).e  cl,„rcl,  is  <,„„,,'  ,'  ''"■''«! :  happily,  every 
«""  be  sarprised  ,„  I,  a  >'"'■"'',  "";"•"'«  "P-  1 '.,  you 
;;-'  'o  do  In  May  a.  ,'„  .  ".f  """f '^  '«»  ".a„'l,e 
""-•  old  at  all.     4,1   ,,  '     ■  •""'.-'^■'■■•■ely  see,ns  l„  f^el 

l"\  "'  "-  ears,  a,  ;,",.;"',:  ".","■  "iH.  ,l,ee,cep 
He  ,s  always  feeling  ,1  ,.„  d  i'"  '.'.  "'•'«'"">'  "-'rvoas. 
""'"l-er  .Ley  are  frt.e       T        'il'l"'"-'  '■■■""  "■'-"-'■y 

1  l-e.r  nnrse.  Afrs,  „,„  .'''>  ""•'"selves  immensely. 
.^:;«,"-n  e„„„„ed  l,y„,^  !:,"";  "■"H'"'^'  "P.  L... 
'  ''<-'f  irnverness  is  leami  ur  ,  ,        "  P'"''  "'  'I'ates. 

.'"Ily  fear  s„n,e  a         .^f    ';;  "''"  ""'"''  "'"P  "P,  and 
I"";  "ill  make  her  ,.aref„|  "^  """"'"•'  '""  "  f™sl- 

.      ».e  have  arrnnire<l  a  el,,-;  , 
'"-^  "II  "..■  rlnldrentf   he  l^T'"""?-  "'"'  ""•»  "■""• 

"-"■'ive,and,i,e:,,tnr:''';'i'.r;:.'''''''^ 

J  vthti  their  gov- 


^1 


i- 


ClI.  IV 

'sent,  and  they 
fits  over  "  Ff. 
'"le  to  under- 
even,  and  the 
*t  success. 

fw"  ears,  two 
'  "I"-  family. 
•  ""r  clouds, 
'^■■'tc,  but  we 
'^iJ  the  worst 

zero.    Pro- 
"■*''!  ill  seal- 
"^^''■t-'.as  we 
t'lc  amount 
2  my  cloak, 
;  there  are 
"<'  gloves. 
P''y>  every 


DEC.  1872 


SA'A  TING. 


17 


n., 


you 


s  than  he 
ns  to  feel 
'le  exrop. 
'  nervous, 
•issers-hy 
the  snow 
iniensely. 
r   lip.  I)U( 
f  skaU's. 
'lip,  and 
a  frost- 

ii  even- 

They 
ir  jfov. 


ernesses  and  nurses,  were  ushered  into  the  room  with 
great  ceremony.  Hermic  rushed  at  a  doll.  "  There  is 
my  doll,"  and  kissed  it  most  fervently.  Of  course  they 
all  got  various  presents,  and  the  big  ones  dined  with  us, 
and  afterward  played  blind  man's  buff,  snapdragon,  etc., 
etc. 

The  pictures  have  arrived,  and  are  a  great  improve- 
ment t(j  the  house.  In  my  room  I  have  drawings  of 
Killyleagh  and  Clandeboye,  and  there  are  a  few  oil- 
portraits  in  the  dining-room,  which  make  it  look  home- 
like. We  shall  be  (juite  sorry  to  go  away  next  week,  to 
undertake  a  long  journey  in  the  snow,  and  to  be  a  month 
in  hotels. 

Mr.  Pattisson's  Irish  cook  came  to  tell  him  that,  hav- 
ing had  her  hand  severely  burned  and  blistered  by  lifting 
a  cold  iron  pot,  she  would  go  home  by  next  steamer. 
He  pretends  there  is  not  one  to  go  in. 

FiiJay,  2jth. — We  continue  every  day  to  practice  our 
skating.  I  can  get  on  very  well  with  ordinary  skating. 
I),  can  go  backward  and  do  tiie  figure  of  eight.  Fred 
is  beginning  the  outsiile  edge,  and  is  studying  the  art 
with  great  care.  The  children  arc  not  industrious:  they 
fin  J  n\aking  snow  houses  and  tobogganing  much  more 
amusing  than  lamely  shuffling  over  the  ice,  so  I  think 
they  will  be  long  in  learning. 

S(jfur</,ry,  jiS^/i. — Tins  morning  we  visited  the  "Con- 
gregation de  Notre  Dame,"  an  educational  convent, 
where  Nelly  was  shown  a  Christmas-tree,  and  told  to 
choose  what  she  liked  best  on  it.  In  spite  of  my  nudges, 
truth  would  out,  and  she  took  a  very  pretty  doll  instead 
of  the  insignificant  present  I  was  trying  to  suggest  to 
lier. 

Directly  after  lunch  I  went  down  to  the  Rink  to  re- 
ceive my  ci,.jti„g,p3r^y  !t  went  off  estremely  well. 
Some  of  the  young  people  skated  most  beautifully,  Miss 


58 


^'^  CANADlAAr  JOURAAL. 


T,    ,    .    ,  CH.  IV 

Patrick  and  Mis^  i<r.-r.„  c     , 

'he  best  porJ!!::^"'^^:^?  '"'  ''"'^  «'"^.  ^-« 

well  done, and  .hesce„ao,fK„t  i,T' *""'""^'■- 
tobop,„i„,,  down  the  hill  mZ'  A  "^  '  "'  P'°P'» 
"«  d,a  „,,.  fee,  e,ual  to  ska     ^tef  r  "sIT  "'^^'^'^'' 

When  It  became  cold  w„  ,.  '^''  experts. 

-  -.<!  mulled  claret  a,;ddarc!'  T"  ""'  ''""''  """" 
■-••"1  1"  repeat  these  ,  art  t  oLT         ?°  ''°"^-     '''<'  '"■ 
was  <,uite  a  surprise  '. h  ^t  „   '     u^t  Z    '     '"'"  ''""™'« 
"Pected  now,  an<l  parcels  of  .'l,?      "V™'"'  "  "'"  ''= 
'"'"»  will  he  brought  next   s'rn'      ""'°"''  """"'■ 
Penscd  with  on  this  occaTon  '•  '''"'^  ""'^  "«■ 

^-••cJ.  rough  rut,s,     Tl.is  is  tret^;„  '""^  ^^^^^^  '"'" 

thus.astic  over   its  deli^h         r,    T.^^^'  '"  ^^  «"' 

^^Pt  here  as  a  v.itin«-dav'  Alf:;:  Z  ''""'^  ^'^^  '» 
;-^'  all  the  gentlemen  visa  n  '  ^  'T''"'  ^^'^'^  ''  "-^e. 
from  three  to  five  and  receive  1  V  ''"■"  "^*  ''"'"e  " 

^t  was  a  most  lovelv  d?v  '-^ '"""• 

ten  degrees  of  frost,  w  i  h^Cs'"  ^'"^^  '>--^''".  with  onlv 
^V.th  the  exception  of  a  few  "'r/r:'"'^^  "'^  ^'  ""^w  ' 
been  perfectly  con.f„rtable     t  f.  "'''""^-  ""'^  ^^^^ 

we  are  so  well  wrapped  uo  w.  "'  '''  **"  ^a'"'".  and 

not  feel  cold.  ' '       "''  ^''^"  ^«  «"  out,  that  we  can 


CH.  IV 


'"y  girls,  being 

graceful  when 
r^y;  everyone 
lots  of  people 

t^"  my  skates, 
'ch  experts. 

house,  drank 
lour.     We  in- 

'i  iie  dancing 
irse  it  will  be 
•ious  decura- 
ch  were  dis- 

'leighing  are 
le  as  driving 
^wgets  into 
^t  to  be  en- 
id   the   red 
t.  I  think, 
r's   Day   is 

»y  at  home, 
'  at  home  " 

with  only 
^ca  (haw! 
'.  We  have 
^'arm,  and 
*t  we  can 


1 


CHAPTER   V. 


MONTREAL. 


S/.  Laivrence  Hall ;  Sunday,  January  f/Z/.—  We  left 
Ritleau  yesterday,  had  dinner  at  I'rescott,  and  reached 
Montreal  at  night.  A  very  successful  winter  journey, 
for  had  the  snow  been  troublesome  we  might  have  been 
days  en  route.  The  Mayor  met  us,  and  we  drove  to  this 
hotel,  where  we  have  taken  rooms  for  a  month.  Our 
own  cook  and  servants  arrive  early  in  the  week  and  ar- 
range everything,  while  we  go  down  to  Quebec  for  a 
hall.  The  rooms  we  have  here  are  very  clean,  but  very 
hotel-like,  stiff  and  starch,  and  I  shall  not  feel  much  at 
home  when  1  receive  my  guests  in  them. 

Monday,  6tli.—  \\c  went  early  to  the  Rink,  which  ve 
were  curious  to  see.  It  is  a  great  place,  250  f.  et  long, 
of  smooth,  dull-looking  ice,  which  reminds  one  of  wax, 
and  which  is  covered  with  scrapings  cut  off  by  the 
skaten;  there  is  a  raised  walk  round  the  ice  for  non- 
skaters,  and  a  gallery  at  one  end.  The  roof  is  arched. 
Most  of  the  skaters  were  children  of  four  years  old  and 
upwards,  going  backwards  and  forwards,  Dutch  rolling, 
making  eights -looking  as  if  they  had  been  born  on 
skates.  There  was  only  one  young  lady  there,  ^  •jry 
pretty  and  a  splendid  performer,  Hrr  skating  is  the 
mtist  bcautifiii,  jffarcfui  thing  i.ih-  <  ,ui  mt,  Hkaimji  is* 
particularly  pretty  for  ladies,  as  the  dress  hides  tlo  ma- 


6o 


^y  CANADIAN,  joUA^^^r^L, 


If  III 


^'^'nery  which  is  visible  when  men     ^. 

^'"k  's  dull,  however,  I   thi  k   ,  ''"•     ^"  '"'door 

^f  doors.  '      ^'^'"^'  ^<""pared  to  skating  out 

VVe  went  down  to  the  >;f-.f: 
two  good  bedroon^s  ^^,;     ""r  ".^  ""'    ''  ^-'  '  '-^1 
--car.     Mrs.De;th.^       ,;tu'''^'^'"^^"''■ 
»'«  i^x.'s  short-hand  writer     n^^^^^      '  -"ing-roo,„.  a„d 
occupy  a  couch  opposite  ^Ct^^    "  T  "'^'^^^'-^  ^« 
'"to  .t  with  his  hat  on,  whi^'  /       "^''^'  ^''^'^  J^'n^Ped 
g'-^ve  an  air  of  respectability  to  T"'"'"  '''  ^^""^'^^^^"^ 
^•■»«  8:'g«:Iing  at  him   under  h.^        '  P'-o^eeding.     De.u 
«'m.sed  when,  later,  the  h  t     f     '"'' '"^'  "''''-^  ^''"  "^^re 
''^  J'ttle  man  pulled  h,s  d  tl^'"!""^'^  ^""^'^  "^^'  -^^1 

^-^s,/uj,  .,/,_;ve  .avok  ^^^'  "'''■  '^'-^  head. 

*-   ^'t   a   parsing   s  aUo.^    i;;  ""^:  ^"  "^^-'  ^^  cup  of 
twelve.  **     '''^'""'  -^"^   armed   at   Quebec  at 

■-.and  wee  accon.pa,  ■',    ,  '  „;™'".  ™""'8>l.r„„g? 
'"  111.,  h.-tol  „ver  t/,e  m,M     L  ■'"'■    "'^^ ''™«  "P 

quite  amusing:  il   sk^Z  ,""""•' •""  '"  •"'"""••  is 

-cep.i„„  weie.  wi.rL":;  ^^irr'^'  ^■"^-  -™ 

r-f'^™'-»--^:;^'^;;d'SeC:: 

«i"k.  where  r;  i,  „~  H ,'  "':'■"","•'  "■■  ">■'••""  w<^nt  lo  ,h, 

'"■'i-  "f  Q.,.„ .  ';;:'":*!"  "'"'■*'  '■)■  a"  .i« ,-..,; 

""-■noon  w.  „,;„,j  .^'"„  ™ '7- i"'"",.     I„  ,|,e 
'•'-"'■■■,    Tl,i,  ,„„ee  i„    ,    '  '  "''  "'""'  "f  '"y  l.om.  expc 


JAN.  1873 


CITIZENS'  BALL. 


^1  in-door 
o  skating  out 

JJ-  and  I  had 
eds  in  a  Pii||. 
"g-ro<;;„,  and 
'  expected  to 
hyly  jumped 
B  considered 
■<^''"J?.     Dent 
'^  still  more 
"t^^tl  off,  and 
is  head. 
e  a  cup  of 

Quebec   at 

,  the  river, 
'un  shining 
'ig  through 
L'  drove  up 
snow  is  in 
another  is 
rhe  Warm 

band  was 
'.  Ijut  too 
-K'giuiiers 

It  to  the 

'«*  young 
III  the 
v.iiiiined 
'H'pxpe- 
try.and 


6t 


The  Citizens'  Ball  took  place  to-night.  It  is  one 
given  for  us  by  the  city,  and  for  which  we  were  invited 
to  return  when  we  left  in  the  autumn.  It  was  a  splendid 
entertainment.  'I'he  room  was  decorated  with  our  colors, 
and  with  wreaths  of  roses,  and  there  was  a  large  recep- 
tion committee,  who  took  great  care  of  me  ali  the  even- 
ing. 

Thursday,  gth. — An  excursion  to  Montmorency  was 
arranged  for  to-day,  but  I  did  not  go.  At  noon,  forty- 
two  sleighs,  each  driving  a  tandem,  came  to  the  door, 
and  I),  got  into  the  first  in  a  snowstorm.  Tiie  weather 
cleared  later,  and  they  drove  twelve  miles,  had  lunch, 
visited  the  Fall,  and  were  back  by  dusk.  They  enjoyed 
it  very  much,  though  they  came  in  very  cold. 

1).  and  I  dined  alone,  and  then  went  off  to  a  skating 
ball.  The  Rink  was  lighted  up,  and  hung  with  fln!';s  and 
lanterns,  and  there  were  regular  dancing  programmes. 
It  was  a  very  pretty  sight.  I  can't  conceive  anything 
more  graceful  than  the  lancers  skated  ;  waltzing  also  is 
pretty,  but  few  people,  even  here,  can  do  it,  1  had  a 
very  comfortable  seat,  and  sat  there  with  a  never-ceas- 
ing stream  of  figures  passing  before  ine. 

D.  skated  a  gocxi  deal  at  the  ball,  and  Fred  took 
some  turns  with  the  young  ladies  hand-in -hand  round 
the  place,  but  they  did  not  dance,  I  went  round  twice, 
but  am  not  a  good  enough  skater  for  these  public  dem- 
onstrations. 

J''rUin\  iot>i.—M\tr  some  skating,  I  proceeded  to  the 
grating  at  the  Ursuline  C'onvent  to  thank  the  nuns  for 
gome  lovely  specimens  of  their  work,  which  they  sent  me 
an  a  New  Year's  gift.  Then  I  came  home  and  '*  received  " 
farewell  visits.  All  at  Quebec,  both  in  "  society  "  and 
in  the  streets,  are  m  nice  to  us— they  are  very  home- 
like,  \Vr  left  the  hotel  in  the  ^vf^nin"  rmti^f*;'  *hi*  v\'-p^r 
and  had  our  special  car.  in  which  we  first  had  tea  and 


e>2 


w 


^fy  CA.VADfAX  JOUJiXAL, 


CH.  V 


"Wse,  and  then  we  „en,  ,     ^    ,  ^"' ' 

Couls«n  amended  "a  par  y  •■  i„'':t  ""■'"  ^-^  and  M, 

■&/ar^„|.  ////,      ,,'      ^    '"  "■«  "<:•«  carriage 
"-•-."as,  ia.ed;7„"r;:!f  ^' "»'-.  !„'.;„,  f„. 

Mondav,  ijt/i j) 

and  some  churches  aC^h  '"L"'th'' '''  '^^  ^-^'«' 
a  J^raw,ng-room,     There  were\h     .       '"'"'"^  ^^  ^ad 
///.../..v,  i4th.-.\x^  .kated  7T" /'°°°  P«"PJe  at  it. 
^f'^  "horning,  and  at  ni.ht    '   ,   "     '"   '^  "  ^^'^'''^^  '" 
[--ty-eight  people:  S,,)    ""  '"' ^'""-  here  J. 
^tayor  and  his  wife  a    I  '"'^''"  ""^  ^is  wife  the 

-ali  for  so  many.t;'  t;^  ^e,?"^  d-vving-roo.  i 
y  ball  at  a  Mo„s.  Papi,    ,   /;  ^.^  >'' ^«  -e  were  gon,g 
auiment  I  have  been   to  in     ~' ^'■■'^'  P^vate  entert 
have  been  handsome,  w  th  bro  "  ''"     "'^  -"^^  must 
powdered.     They  have  a  prettv  h.  ^'""  '"'  ^'^''^  ^air 
Pieasant.  P'^">'  house,  and  the  ball  was 

«hoe  torchlight  processiof'r'"''  "''  '""'^^^^  ^  «n"W. 
"  <^''>ck  the  prescient  o  TL'       '  '"  ""'■  ''""«'••    At  eight 
^';"ve  out  until  we   „:     '  ! 'r"'^'^  ^'^'^^  ^^  •'«-  and  we 
^hite  blanket  coats     iU     I    "•""'•''^"^■'*"     '^^hey  w.ne 
^he  sight  really  was  verv  ,'  .    '^^'"^"'  ''^"''  '^^^  caps,  and 

7^  r'^ht  night.  th:^~;^r  "^' ^'^^^^'--^^^^^ 

f '«hs  and  thousands  o^T.nklin  T*""''  ''""^'^^"'^  "f 
the  gayety  of  the  whole  "^'^  '''^'''^'  ^''^  '""-ches.  and 
Processi<,n  walked  .,',,"''  "''''  '^'"''^''h'ful.     T  1 

:;;-tchingthene;;  ;;':;- 

!  he  roads  were  e.vcl^l,ent  ,,,7  l'"'*^  """"^  ^he  trees, 
d.'-'vt- iLave  n-ailv  enj„n,,  f  '^^'■''^  ^he  first  sl..igh. 
^'ved  at  a  house  where  sul./''  "'^'""^  -'  hour  we  ar- 
-,'^^^  ^  very  an.usi.;;    X^^"'Vr"'""^''  «"^  -"- 

--  sun^  afj^j.  _^,j^ 


CH.  V 

Fred  and  Mr. 
carriage, 
a^  in  time  for 
^h  the  Mayor 
■gins  on  Mon- 

'^.1^  Courts, 
eniiig  we  had 

people  at  it. 

a  school  in 
inner  here— 
'lis  wife,  the 
'ing-rooni  is 
!  were  going 
■ivate  enter- 

^''^e  must 

white  hair 
he  bail  was 

^^  a  snow- 
At  eight 
"•S  and  we 
'"'ley  wore 

f^'ips,  and 

anadian: 
'Hireds  of 
ches,  and 
"'•     The 
ve  round 
he  trees, 
t  sleigh- 
r  we  ar- 
li  where 
"ng  list 
^r  each. 


Jan.  1873 


MONTREAL, 


63 


I 


There  was   the   usual  amount  of  compliments   to  the 
country,  to   us,  to  the   Mayor,  to   everybody.     Canada 
was  the  finest  country,  the  Canadians  the  finest  people 
His  Excellency  worthy  to  be  a  Canadian,   Her  Excel' 
lency  most  excellent,  the  Mayor  admirable,  thr  Mavor 
ess  most  hospitable,  our  hosts  .  .  .  words  failed  '    When 
the  Mayor  got  up  to  return  thanks,  he  said  that  "  As 
Canadians,  we  have  one  fault~we  are  too  fond  of  prais"- 
ing  ourselves;  but  in  this  case  it  is  sincere."     When  all 
was  over,  we  got  into  our  sleigh  again,  and  the  fresh  air 
was  delightful!      The  snow-shoers  were  by   this   time 
"jolly  good  fellows,-  and  I  found  them  rather  alarming 
to  our  horses  and  to  me;  so  we  begged  them  not  to  ac- 
company us  h<,me,  and  1  think  they  were  not  sorry  to 
return  to  the  supper-room. 

Thursday,  j6th.~\  may  tell  you,  once  for  all,  that  we 
spend  the  morning  in  the  Rink. 

This  afternoon  we  visited  a  Catholic  commercial 
school-  really  a  well-arranged  building.  The  boys 
have  a  very  good  string  band,  and  between  addresses 
we  had  some  music, 

We  had  a  large  dinner  in  the  evening:  Sir  Francis 
and  Miss  Hincks  were  of  the  party.  I  fear  it  was  not 
bvely,  but  what  can  one  do  in  a  small  room  with  thirty 
strangers  ? 

Saturday,  /cW/.— After  our  morning  skate  wc  came 
home  m  a  snowstorm,  and  then  out  again  to  a  benevo- 
lont  institution  where  old  women  and  orphan  children 
arc  lodged,  and  the  latter  educated  We  had  tea  wah 
the  Bishcp  and  Mrs.  Oxenden.  Thev  have  a  very  ni.e 
house,  and  they  had  collected  a  iittle  party  i<.  meet  us; 
but  we  had  rather  u,  hurry  away,  as  it  was  snowmg 
hard,  and  we  had  to  drciss  for  a  dinner-party.     It  was  to 

and  was,  I  thought,  the  pleasantest  we  have  had  here. 


64 


My  CANADIAN  JOURNAL, 


CH.  V 

and  only  rcLneU  ,„r  H  .e"  .7/™"«'«I  ">  «he  kink, 
the  Board  of  Trade  ™  ""  ""''««  '™" 

p.o:!:::;;^:i,t^r— ^---.«drove.oa 

good  one :  but  i,  „a_,  ,|,e  wrong  o      as"      asT:  '  "'" 

big  dinner.     I  eniovpH  tK^  •       '*  •^""'^^  rest  before  a 

I'lc^  dined  with  n"  ''"'"«'  """  """^  "'«  P™- 

onr  horses  were^ul^r^^'r/.r;  "^^^f     »"^ 

taken  to  the  dreSr-fo:^'r:r;  ?' "'"'  "•  "- 

■adies.    „.  afterwards'visi:  d    h    N  ™  TsV^iT'"'  "" 
s<-'lf.     We  dined  with  the  M  ,v,,r        ,  °"'  ''''  '"■"" 

in  >l.e   snow  to   J      ,„   l'"' ""^  ""'>■<=  «Wc-d  ,. at 

^'ei.^  -  .■eat,/r:;;::a  .if  r„  rrJuTi-^'-r'^ 

gayet.es  are  in  our  own  lunnv  C.anad.an 

and  who  sen.  me  magnificent  bono"    ,      t,    ''   "  ■''°' 
;;...•  .;i.nrch  and  co„ege  here,  and  ar^cei^brat'ed'  L'r'Z.: 

W.  h.d  (Of  course)  a  d,n„er-party.    n,  i„„k  i„  , 


Jan.  1873 


"MONKLANDS." 


65 


bride,  and  I  had  a  senator  and  a  judge  on  either  side  of 

nnd?'?;?-"'  '^'^•~'^'  ''"  ^'-  ^^'"^  ^"  ^  ™i''tary  school 
and  had  the  rest  of  the  day  for  amusing  himL  f  w  h 
skat.ng  and  curling.  We  had  another  large  dinner  r  1 
people  w.ll  have  du,ed  w.th  us  th.s  week,  Is  whom 
are  quite  new  acquaintances. 

Fruiay,  ^^///.-There  was  a   tremendous  snowstorm 
to-day,  but  we  had  an  appointment  to  visit  "  M o^l    ^1  s^ 

"^  "It.  eyes  Hum  the  snow,  and  we  nil  li-wi 
to  cover  our  faces  and  take  as  much  care  of  l!!  1 
was  possible.  ^  "^  ourselves  as 

"Monklands"   used    to   hf>   th«   (- 

tuc  lown   tor  a  Government   House      Tf   li.,c  1, 

A  eer  »ee,n«  ,„e  nuns  and  .he  I,„„hc,,',„  ,  „,„„^,. 

"   ""•    "5°   >■"""«   lailifs,   <lri:sscd   in    white    wore 
""r.esy,n^    and  whence   proceeded   s,.,„uK         hnrns 

•-Ilc^^buf  .-r'  "'''•  '"'"  ""'^  ^"•'"  ^-'  ^«  visit  a 

w  '     '■*'""''  straight  home. 

One  of  our  young  ladies  turned  nut  to  be  a  "  hi  e-sto4^: 


66 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURXAI.. 


W  \  \ 


C\\.  V 

ing,"  and  amused  us  much  by  laying  down  the  law  to  the 
company. 

Saturday,  25th.-l  took  a  drive  along  the  river  to  pre- 
pare for  the  labors  of  the  afternoon,  being  "at  home  " 
Ue  began  to  receive  at  three,  and  had  a  stream  of  visit- 
|>rs  till  S.30.     I  had  not  much  time  except  for  shaking 
hands,  and  all  my  conversation  was  "  How  do  you  do  ' '' 
"How  cold  you  must  ber*  "  Good-by  !  "     A  funny  lit- 
tle American    woman,  traveling   alone  with    her   maid 
came  and  looked  in  at  the  door  to  see  mc ;  then  she 
thought    she   would    come    in,  so    she  went    home   and 
changed  her  hat  for  her  bonnet  and  returned.    She  asked 
for  "my  husband,"  and  invited  us  both  to  Philadelphia 
She  looked  small   and  thin  enough  to  blow  away,  and 
tred  found  ...     afterwards  almost  fainting  from  the  ex- 
ertion  of   h    )    V;Slt. 

Mouda..  .7.^». -After  skating,  I  brought  Miss  Allan 
back  to  lirjn  '.    and  we  went  to  a  chemical  lecture      It 
was  given  to  ludies,  and  I  am  patroness  of  the  associa- 
tion.    I  then  went  on  to  the  Protestant  Infants'  Home 
D.  visited  the  Montreal  Waterworks. 

We  had  a  dinner  of  thirty-six— our  last  here.  The 
children  arrived  at  midnight,  looking  extremely  well 

Tuesday,  2m.~\\^  all  went  to  visit  a  large  convent 
called  Hochelaga.  It  is  a  fine  building,  and  contains  a 
very  beautiful  chapel  copied  from  one  in  Rome.  We 
heard  the  organ  played  and  the  novices  sing. 

In  the  evening  there  was  the  "  citizens'  "  ball  given 
in  our  honor.  There  was  an  excellent  ball-room,  with  an 
enormous  supper-room  off  it.  An  arrangement  was 
made  at  one  end  of  it,  like  the  canon's  stall  in  a  cathe- 
dral :  these  were  lined  with  green,  and  decorated  with 
the  antelope  and  heart,  our  motto,  etc.,  etc. ;  in  each  a 
chair,  but  only  one  stall  was  used  all  the  night,  and  that 
by   mc.      The    whole  room  was  ornamented  with  Hags 


JAN.  1873 


THE  RIXK. 


^7 


and  "V.  R.s"  and  "  D.s,"  and  was  very  pretty.  There 
was  a  state  quadrille  first,  of  enormous  length,  reaching 
the  whole  way  down  the  room,  and  with  us  and  the 
Mayor  alone  at  the  ends.  1  enjoyed  my  share  o^  'he 
evening  very  much,  and  tlanced  all  the  squares  re 

supper,  leaving  very  soon  after.  An  official  list  of 
partners  was  made  out  for  I).,  and  he  remained  dancing 
with  dowagers  until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Wi'Jnesiiay,  2(^t/i. — I),  had  relaxation  to-day,  skating 
and  curling,  and  I  did  some  business,  and  went  over  the 
R.  C.  Deaf-and-dumb  Institutions. 

These  were  very  interesting,  as  the  poor  creatures 
are  being  taught  to  speak,  and  very  successfully  too. 
There  are  separate  establishments  for  the  boys  and 
girls,  and  the  master  showed  us  the  whule  system  of 
teaching. 

This  is  a  cold,  bright  day,  20°  below  zero. 

I  spent  the  evening  with  the  children,  D.  and  staff 
having  gone  to  a  night-tobogganing  party  and  dance. 
The  former  returned  at  twelve,  and  the  young  ones 
not  till  nearly  three.  They  enjoyed  it,  but  thought  it  a 
dangerous  amusement  in  the  dark,  and  Mr.  Coulson  had 
the  sleeves  completely  cut  out  of  his  coat  by  a  toboggan 
coming  down  on  the  top  of  him. 

21iursda\\  30th. — The  fancy-dress  skating  ball  took 
place  in  the  evening,  and  was  a  most  beautiful  sight,  be- 
sides being  great  fi:  1. 

We  drove  to  the  Rink  wearing  morning  dress,  and 
went  out  on  a  balcony  to  look  down  upon  the  scene. 
It  was  like  a  fairy  pantomime  of  gigantic  size,  and  was 
most  striking.  The  building  was  hung  with  (lags  and 
C'hinese  lanterns,  and  from  one  end  to  the  other  there 
were  gayly-dressed  tigures  of  every  sort  and  variety 
moving  about  with  that  easy,  graceful  swing  whicli  be- 
longs to  skating.     When  we  went  downstairs  we  were 


i\ 


58 


-  .«• 


.Cft.lT . 


.     ""■'<*  and  Miss  KinVsforrf  ,» 

">e  best  performer,.  Ila^t  L  °  ""'''  "''"''  ^"^-  "=% 
well  done,  and  ,l,e  scene  o„  hf  ,S '^  "'''  S"-^"'"'  when 

■  n>ovi„g  about  so  f  ast  on    he  fc.       /";  ^"'^ '  ""y™e 
tobogganing  down  .h'e  hm  behind'  "1.  ^^  "  ""P'^ 

■  "u.  did  no.  fee,  e,„a,  to  si.  :;:gtw  ,^f„°'"»/^''ae.s, 

vVhen  It  became  cold  w^  ^  '^'^  exjierts.   - 

•"  and  ™„,ied.  cla  e.?  atd  da^  T  '^'  ^""'^  "'^ 
t^-ld  .0  .epea.  these  ;a..iltra  tT^^  7' '"- ' 
was  qu,.e  a  surprise  .his  .ime  ba.!,t"''"™K 
"Peced  now,  and  parcels  of    hoi  and     "''  "  *'"  "' 
t'ons  will  be  brough.  „e„    «,!"''  ''"'""'s  <i«ora. 
Pensed  with  on  .his  occasion  '''  "^'"^  """'  "''■ 

^^-iastic  over   its  d    ^h  r    Th'  ^T^,^"^'^^  ^°  ^ - 
■Piumes  on  the  horses- back    areThK^''   '"^   ^^e  red 

kept  here  as  a  visiting-da;     Alf  tT^ !■  ''^'^'^  ^^^  « 
andalHhegentlemen'vis,':     n  ZT^'^'^y  ^'^or..,^^- 
from  three  to  five  and  received,  '"^''^  "^^  ^^n^e  "  . 

ten  degrees  of  frost,  which  sell^  ^Tid  bright,  with  only 

Wuh  the  exception  of  a  feJ.r/Vr^K^"''^'-''^^^^'^*-^^      ' 
been  perfectly  comfortable     theK     '^'"■''^'"^^'  ^^  have 
^e  are  so  well  wrapped  up  when  1'' ''  ''  '"  ^^™'  a«d  ^ 

not  feel  cold  ^  ^^^^  ^«  8^°  (>ut,  that  we  can^        /- 


»      -. 


^^ 


IT"!      I  nil 


5«y  g'ris,  being- 
'  graceful  when 
?ay;  everyone 
"ots  of  people 
'  on  my  skates, 
^ch  exjierts. 
'  housej  drank 
hour.     Wein- 
"^The  dancing 
irse  it  will  be 
rious  decora- 
ich  were  dis- 

^leighing  are 

0^  gets  into 
ht  to  be  en- 
"d   the   red 
M  think. 
ir's  Bay   is 

«yathonie,„.y^' 
'at  home  "  . 

•  with  only 
*fea  thaw? 
s.  we  have 
"'arm,  and 
at  we  can         /" 


=^^ 


r' 


CHAPTER  V. 

MONTREAt, 


I 


St.  La7vrence  Hall:  Sunday,  January  jM.^We  left 
Rideau  yesterday,  had  dinner  at  Prescott,  and  reached 
Montreal  at  night.  A  very  successful  winter  journey, 
for  had  the  sno*r  been  troublesome  we  might  have  been 
days  m  route.  The  Mayor  met  us,  and  we  drove  to  this 
hotel,  where  we  have  taken  rooms  for  a-  month.  .  Our 
own  cook  and  servants  arrive  early  in  the  week  aiid  ar- 
range everything,  while  we  gp  dowsi  to  Quebec  for  a 
ball.  The  roonjs  we  have  herfe  are  very  clean,  but  very 
hotel-like,  stiff  and  starch,  a|jd  I  shaiH  not  feel  much  at 
home  when  I  receive  ttiy  guests  in  them.' 

Monday,  6th.— \ft  went  early  to  the  Rink,  which  we 
were  curious  to, see.  It  it  ^g;reat  place,  250  feet  long, 
of  smooth,  dulMooking  ice,  which  reminds  one  of  wax, 
and  which  'is  covered  with  scrapings  cut  off  by  the 
skates;  there  is  a  raised  walk  round  the  ice  for  non- 
skaters,  and  a  gallery  at  one  end.  The  raof  1*  arched. 
Most  of  the  skaters  were  children  of  four  years  old  and 
upwards,  going  backwards  and  forwards,  Dutch  rolling, 
making  eights— 'looking  as  if  ttfey  had  been  born  on 
skates.  There  was  only  one  young  lady  there,  very 
pretty  and  a  splendjd  performer.  Her  skating  jg  the 
aiusi  ijeamiiui,  graceful  tning  om  tm  8*e,  Scaling  is  " 
particularly  pretty  for  ladies^  iTl  the  dress  hides  the  ma- 


»      -. 


\ 


4  ^ 


•4! 


6o 


i 


"^^ ^^^ADIAN  JOVHI^AZ. 


"elf*.  V 


chinery  which  is  visible  ^u  ■ 

7;; -dun.  however  ^hlt  col  ^'r-     ^"  ^"-^- 
of  doors.  V  '  *''''"P^'"ed  to  skating  out 

We  went  down  to  the  staf  ?nn    .      • 
^-o  good  bedrooms,  and    hT^^  I>- and  I  had 

";-  car.     Mrs.  Den't  had  a  soflt  th     '  '^'^  '^  '  ^""- 
H's  Ex.V  short-hand-  writer  tdi"^'  -"'ng-roo.n, and 
occupy  a  couch  opposite  to  mv^"/  ^e  was  expected  to 
'-^«  't  with  his  hat  o#whicTl        '""^'  ^'^^''^^  ^"'"P^d 
gave  an  air  of  respectability  J  'h'^'''  ''  '""^'^"^^ 
^as  giggling  at  him  unde    h^r  P^^'^^^ding.     Bent, 

amused  when,  later,  the  hat  of     '^^'.^"^  >vas  still  more 
^^^^  man  pulled  his  cbth  sS"^^  ^^'^^^  °^'  -^ 

r«„^a^,  ;^/^_We  awoke  in  .  ^     '^'"'^'^  *^^^^- 
^^^   at   a   passing   staUof      h  '"^^-.^^  ^ave  a  cup  of 
twelve.  ^   '•'''^"'  ^d.  arrived   at   Quebec  at 

-d^re^S^^-^i^-d  the  Citadel,  the  r^ 

on  the  snow.    ^V.  VoJ^ltT""' ''''''' '^^  ^^^ -^^^.^^^ 

■    ice,  and  were  accomp  "  d  ",  ''^^^-'«-'  cutting  through    - 

to  the  hotel  over  the  mo!th  ^^'"■-    ^«  drove  up 

^reat  moulds,  and  thetl  f7'  "^'^^^^  -«-  i-' 

•nany  chifdren,  who  get  In  tL    ^  ^"""^  '''"^'"«'  ^ut  too 
nervous.  "°  «^^*  J"  the  way  and  make  beginners 

«&)=,  «here  D  «  B,a«io,  "T'."*^  "^^  again  ».„  to  the 

"Ch  scmbby  f„;,|,  and  „^r'  h  '  ""''  '  """'i^'l 

'  «n«.    This  plaei  in  wimer  i,^  .  ""  "'  "''  """^  "Pe- 

"■*'^  piun,a^  .how,  z:  r  ::r:°  "-"'r-^" 


■I  ■,*■• 


Xt'- . 


►    >.  .- 


,    I.  .^.jiWVM.tS"'     .>,'. 


cTtf .  V 

An  in-door 
0  skating  out 

D-  and  I  had 
eds  in  a  Pull- 
"g-rooin,  and 
'  expected  to 
^y^y  jumped 
-  considered 
dJng:.     Dent 
s  still  more 
fed  off,  and 
is  head, 
e  a  cup  of 
Quebec  at 

,  the  river, 
un  shining 
ig  through    - 
i  drove  up 
snow  is  in 
another  is 
fhe  warm 

hand  was 

',  but  too 
>eginners 

>t  to  the 
e  young 
In  the 
tamined 
leexpe- 
try.and 
bles. 


JAN.  1873 


CITIZENS'  B4LL. 


* 
61 


The  Citizens*  Ball  took  place  to-night.  It  is  one 
given  for  us. by  the  city,  and  for  which  we  were  invited 
to  return  when  we  left  in  the  autumn.  It  was  a  splendid 
entertainment.  The  room  waS  decorated  with  bur  colors, 
and  with  wreaths  of  roses,  and  there  was  a  large  recep- 
;  tion  committee,  who  took  great  care  of  me  all  the  even- 
ing. , 

Thursday,  ^th. — An  excursion  to  Montmorericy  was 
arranged  for  to-day,  but  I  did  not  go.  At  noon,  fortyr 
two  sleighs,  each  driving  a  tan defl|,  came  to  the  door, 
and  D.  got  into  the  first  in  a  snowstorm.  The  weather 
cleared  later,  and  they  drove  twelve  miles,  had  lunch, 
visited  the  Fall,  and  were  back  by  dusk.  They  enjoyed 
it  very  much,  though  they  came  in  very  cold. 

D.  and  I  dined  alone,  and  then  went  off  no  a  skating 
ball.  The  Rink  was  lighted  ufl,  and  huhgwith  flags  and 
lanterns,  and  there  were  regular  dancing  programmes. 
It  was  a  very  pretty  sight.  I  can't  conceive  anything 
more  graceful  than -the  lancers  skated  ;  waltjing  also  is 
pretty,  but  few  people,  even  here,  can  do  it.  T  had  a 
very  comfortable  seat,  and* sat  there  with  a  never-ceas^, 
in^  stream  of  figures  passing  before  me. 

D.  skated  a  good  deal  at  the  ball,  and  Fred  took 
some  turns  with  the  yourig  ladles  hand-in-hand  round 
the  place,  but  they  did  not  dance.     I  went  round  twice,  ' 
but  am  not  a  good  enough  skater  for,  these  public  dem- 
onstrations. 

Friday, yoth. — After  some  skating,  I  proceeded  to  the 
grating  at  the  Ursuline  Convent  to  thank  the  nuns  for. 
some,  lovely  specimens  of  their  work,  which  tbey  sent  nie 
as  a  New  Vfcar's  ^ift.  Then- 1  came  bom«  and  "  received  " 
farewell  visit.s.  All"  at  QtictJeci  both  in  "society"  and 
in  the  streets,  are  so  nice  to  iis*— they  «re  very  home^ 
Hke.  vye  l€!t  itit  hfttel  Iti' the  evening,  crp^sed  the'  river, 
and  had  Our  special  car,  in  nvhich' we  first  had  tea  and 


4 


W.' 


"*^;"-lv  -11  »nrniT'g.iBBim«-Tri»a^aa^sifeE,Ei^iaaa«a 


62 


0 


CH,  V 


'""St.  and  ,h„  „,,      '  _  ■  •     '^•' 

CouUon  amended  •.»;:«,  '".n":;  l""'  ^-',  -d  Mr. 

^l  son.,  churches  ^  Z^T^'^^'^''^'^^ 
^  Drawmg-room.     There  were'^?^^  ^^^"'^^ 

.;      '^^  -orning,  and  aM^^^^^^^^d  a  schoo]  I 
^enty-eight  people:  bS^^^  ""I  ^rst  .dinner  here- 
Wayor  and  hi&  wL  arid  ^.u  ^'"^^"  ^"^  his  wife  i\,^ 
-alUor  so  .any,  ^  l^^^"^^^-  ^--'ng-roo.l 
«^bal,  ataMons.PapfneVut  Th>^^-«-eweregoing 
.  "^^'nment  I  have.been  to  ?n  r        !  ^'■'^  P"^^t«  emer 
V    J^^ve  been  handsome  wtVh  "^^^     «'«  ^^^^e  must 

powdered.     They  hav/a  p'e  rh:"''^  ^"'^^'^^^a^^^ 
.    pleasant.  ^  ^"^  ^°"se,  and  the  haJl  was 

*^^fdnesdav  i^th  • Th" 

j-*^-hiight  processioa ;;:::: -f"^  T""''^ '  --  ^ 

^ck  the  president  of  rff  ''"'"  '^°"°'--    At  eight 

-If^eout  untilweme   ,TJ.'"'^'^^'"^^-"VandV^ 
whue  blanket  coats    L^    '°^^-«^°««"     They  woTe 
^e  .ght  really  was  ^:S,^:;^'^^^ 
t^ebnght  night,  the  snolco;e,r''''''^^^^^^^^^^^ 
^-^hs  and  thousands  6f  trnklinlber"".''  '""^^^^^  ^^ 
the  gayety  of  the  whole  scenT    ^^^^^^'^'^^^  and         ■ 
procession  Mcalked  up  the  J        •'"'"■"  ^"''«^tf"'-      The 
^.-atching  the  rJHe  p^S  ^"' "^  ^^--o^^^^^ 
The  road*  w,re  excellent  andf'"^  ''"""^  '^e  trees. 
d"ve  I  have  r.ally  enjoyed      ?      J"^'  ^'^  ^^^^  «'eigh 
^•ved  at  a  house  M^ereTul  '^''"'  ""  ^^">  ^^  al 

-^hadaveryamusfng     Sg"^^^^^^^^^^ 
-^  toast,  and  a  song  w'ith  .";5:...^^--  ^^^  ^  long  list 


B^.-' 


'"'^^fTereaSR: 


.'     '. 


Jan.  1873 


MONTREAL. 


63 


There  was  the   usual  amount  of  complirteats   to  the 
country    to  us,  to  ihe   Mayor,  to  every^dy.     Canada 
was  the  finest  country,  the  Canadians^  the  finest  people 
His  Excellency  worth/^  to  be  a  Canadian,  Her  Excel' 
lency  most  excellent,  the  Mayor  admirable,  the  Mayor 
ess  most  hospitable,  our  hosts  .  .  .  words  failed  '    When 
the  Mayor  got  up  to  return  thanks,  he  said  that  "As 
Canadians,  we  have  one  fault-we  are  too  fond  of  prais- 
ing ourselves;  but  in  this  case  it  is  sintere."    When  all 
was  over,  we  got  into  our  sleigh  again,.and  the  fresh  air 
was  delightful !     The  snow-shoers  wer^  by  this   time 
jolly  good  fellows,"  and  I  found  them  rather  alarming 
to  our  horses  and  to  me  ;  so  we  begged  them  not  to  ac- 
company us  hoj^e,  and.  1  think  they  were  not  sorry  to 
return  to  the  siipper-Toom. 

Thursday,  i6th.^\  may  tell  you,  once  for  all,  that  we 
spend  the  morning  in  the  Rink. 

Tills   afternoon  we   visited  a   Catholic  commercial, 
school -really   a    well-arranged    building.      The    boys 
have  a  very  good  string  band,  and  between  addresses 
we  had  some  music. 

We  had  a  large, dinner  in  the  evening:  Sir  Francis 
and  Miss  Hincks  were  of  the  party.  I  fear  it  was  not 
lively,  but  what  can  one  do  in  a  small  room  with  thirty 
strangers? 

Saturday,  /<?//i_Aftcr  our  morning  skate  we  came 
home  in  a^snowstorm,  and  then  cJut  again  to  a  benevo- 
lent mstitut.on  where  old  women  and  orphan  children 
are  lodged,  and  the  latter  educated.  We  had  tea  with 
the  Bishop  and  Mrs.  Oxenden.  They  have  a  very  nice 
house,  and  they  had  collected  a  little  party  to  meet  us- 
but  we  had  rather  to  hurry  aVay,  as  it  was  snowing 
hard,  and  we  had  to  dress  for  a  dinner-party.  It  was  to 
have  Liicii  a  smati-ong,-troT^tfetcTierout  to  tWenty-fou^^^ 
and  was,  \  thotight,  the  pleasan^est  we  have  had  here. 


I 


.  ^.     '-    » 


64 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  V 

and  D.  went  off  toh,  L^       ^""^  '"breakfast  at  nine, 

im„,ediare  ;  after  A.  ett*"''"^''  ""  '  ^'"^  "»"- 
=ind  only  refumed  fof HUEi  .„'  """'='"'''  '°  "«  «'"*. 
the  Board  of  Trade  '""■' ^"^='<'«'» '"«■ 

When  that  deputation  was  dismissed  w.  ^         • 
Protestant  deaf-and-dumb  :ns.itutTon  wLilh  waT""  ' 

red:-' ^::L7sL'd^.r-c3^^^^^ 

our  list,  and  we  onfv^orh         .       "''''  institution  on 

big  dinner.     I  en  Wcf  tL     "'    "  '  '''^"  ^^^^  ^^^^--^  a 

■  pipelined  with  us     '  '''""^'  ^"'  ^°«^^  "'9^  peo- 

.  were  sh«n  everythm*  ot  ,nT,  f  T  '"'"'•  =""  « 
Uke„tothedissJ.,„r.?„ol  'C  :;r  '"'■'=  D.  was 
ladies.    D.  af  erwards  viii;r^'  LZ  '"'  '"  "i"-  'he 

self.     Wedmedw^fthrS^tdTs"*"'"^"™-. 
i"  the   snow  to   „et    into    '  '^'.f  ""  ""^  Pepped  out ,  . 

^'^'^K  we  .teatiyrio.'::: .  a  r^m  "st  of"J:f  c^-^;^" 

gayetiesare  in  our  own  home.  '"^'^  ^^  ^"'^^^nad.an 

The  Mayor  has  a  nice  house  and  fh». 
,  display  of  flowers  on  his  tab)       n  fact  Th7r  '  'f "''' 
bought  every  flower  in  Montreli  fov Th  '"'  ^'^  ^"^     ^ 

and  disappointed  the    e  I  [' whL  h"!!  F^  "'"'^  '^^' 
and  who  sent  .e  Jgnific:;:  C,^    ,  ^TJ  h^^ 
fine  church  and  coUeire  here  an^  ""'^"^^s-     They  have  a>.. 
attusic.  *^         ^'  ^"^  ^'^  celebrated  «ir  their  ,; 

^<-  had  (pf  couroc)  a  U...„er.pa.ty.    D!  took  in  ki 


V  ,   ,^^}  »iiv^' 


\*  "--j 


*^j    Ti~f(\*CT|j,i 


Jan.  1873 


'MONKLANDS:' 


bride,  and  ,  had  a  senator  and  a  judge  on  either  side  of 

.nd  tadt^'Sfr';hrda°-  ri'"  ''^'^  -"-■• 
,u.inga„d.c„rii„g/t:;!7d:::.r::"4t:t'.™^ 
rr'n  it!'  ''"'"'"^^  "'"■  "^  '^-  wee  j:„ "  ^wh ; 

are  quite  new  acquaintances 

rrs,rr:e\:L:;r  r  "tV"  r- "  -- 

and   they  .ere  •' flounde^:  •    a.o  f  whilft'h*    c''"? 
n.an  was  shading  h,s  eyes  fron.  the  si:    I'd  w    alltd 

"Monklands"    used    to  Jj#  th^    r-  ^  *•- 

house  when  fhpr»  if  Governor-Generalk 

nouse  when  the  Government^  at  Montreal      Fbelievf     " 
the  situatbo   s  fine   hut  if  «,     Tu         .  ^oeiieve 

the  town  fo.  a  Go;::'„ir  H :::  xz  'r """' 

l^rged,  and  now  contains  .anunfa  4,      p, pi  r  "' 

.e:^:: ;:-  ^^e^  ir.^^i.S:?T- 

room  where  a  stage  presented  Ll    ,0       '    °'^  ^^^^^^l" 
whi^i,'**!,  H'cscHLca  itsell  to  our  view  Unnn 

which   the   ISO   young   ladies,    dressed   in   white'^r" 

courtesying,  and  Whence   proceeded    sonnrlc       \^ 

pianos,  and  har^noniuras     ^^ ''™^f   '«""d«   «f   harps. 

ainment   followed    and   dM7JT''  ''''''  ''''''■ 
'resses.  ^  '  ^   ^'^^'^   anspbred   ad- 

When  this  was  over,  poof  "Jf^F-v  -  t,n^  * 
'4oUe»-p-  hn*    ;„  ^  -•    "^d  to  visit  a 


^riTaa^  a  small  c, 
JIne  of  our  young  Jadi 
6 


»d  were  tolerably  merfy. 
|i^doi,itobea"bJue-stock- 


4 


«| 


•f*~ 


I 


66 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


GH.  V 

ing,"  and  amused  us  much  by  .laying  down  the  law  to  the 
company. 

•  -  ,     Saturday,  25th.--l  took  a  drive  along  the  river  to  pre- 
pare for  the  labors  of  the  afternoon,  being  "  at  home  " 
We  began  to  receive  at  three,  and  had  a  stream  of  visit- 
ors  till  S.30.     I  had  not  much  time  except  for  shaking 
hands,  and  all  my  conversation  was  "  How  (fo  you  do  ?•' 
"How  cold  you  must  ber'  "  Good-by  !  "     A  fiinny  lit- 
tle American    woman,  traveling   alone  with    her   maid 
came  and  looked  in  at  the  door  to  see  me ;  ihen  she 
thought    she  would   come   in,  so   she  went    home   and 
changed  her  hat  for  her  l^onnet  and  returned.    She  asked 
for  "my  husband,"  and  invited  us  both  to  Philadelphia 
She  looked^  small   and  thin  enough  to  blow  away,  and 
tred  found  her  afterwards  almost  fainting  from  the  ex- 
ertion of  her  visit.  ' 

Monday,  ^///^.-After  skating,  I  brought  Miss  Allan 
back  to  lunch,  and  we  went  to  a  chemical  lecture      Jt 
was  given  to  ladies,  and  I  am  patroness  of  the  associa-    • 
tion.     1  then  went  on  to  the  Protestant  Infants' Home 
D.  visited  the  Montreal  Waterworks. 
,       We  had  a  dinner  of  thirty-six— our  last  here      The 
children  arrived  at  midnight,  looking  extremely  well 

Tuesday,  2m.-Wc  all  went  Vo  visit  a  large  convent 
called  Hochelaga.  It  is  a  fine  building,  and  contains  a 
very  beauhful  chapel  copied  fr^m  one.fn  Rome.  We 
heard  the  organ  played  and  the  novices  sln;^. 
\  In  the  evening  there  was  the  ^'citizens'" -ball  given 
ih  our  honor;  There  was  an  excellent  ball-room,,  with  an 
«iormous  supper-room  off  it.  An  arrangement  was 
madeat  one  end  of  it,  like  the  canon's  stall  in  a  cathe- 
dral;  these  were  lined  with  green,  and  decorated  with 
the  antelope  and  heart,  our  motto,  etc.,  etc. ;  in  each  a 
chair,  but  only  one  stall  was  used  all  the  night,  and  tha^— 


y  Dy  me.       The   whole  room  was  ornamented  with  flags 


^-i^i^Mii 


'•f^<'':f-(  •" 


JAN.  1873 


THE  RINK. 


(>7 


and  "  V.  R.s  "  and  "  D.s,"  and  was  very  pretty.  There 
was  a  state  quadrille  first,  of  enormous  length,  reaching 
the  whole  way  down  the  rooi^and  with  us  and  the 
Mayor  alone  at  the  ends.  ^M|oyed  my  share  of  the 
evening  very  much,  and  dancltt  all  the  squares  before 
supper,  leaving  very  soon  after.  An  official  list  of 
partners  was  made  out  for  D.,  and  he  remained  dancing 
wi^hjjerwag^s  until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Wednesday, ^^th. — I),  .had  relaxation  to-day,  skating 
and  curling,  and  1  did  sOme  business,  and  went  over  the 
R.  C.  Deaf-and-dumb  Ihstitutions..  .    ; 

These  were  very  interesting,  as  the  poor  dreatures 
are  being  taught  to  speak,  and  Very  successfully  too. 
There  are  separate  establishmefTfs  for  the  boys  and 
girls,  and  the  master  showed  us  the  whole  system  of 
teaching.. 

Thiis  is  a  cold,  bright  day,  20°  below  zero. 

I  spent  the  evening  with  the  children,  ti.  and  staff 
having  gone  to  a  night-tobogganing  party  and  dance. 
The  former  returned  at  twelve,  and  the  young  ones 
not  tithR^^rly  three.  They  enjoyed  it,  but  thought  it.  a 
dangerous  amusement  in  the  dark,  arid  Mr.  Coulson  had 
the  sleeves  compktely  cut  out  of  his  qoat  by  a  toboggan 
coming  down  on  the  top  of  him. 

Thursday,  jot/i.^-lihe  fancy-dr-eSs  skating  ball  took 
place  inj  the  eveniag,  and  was  a  mosyjeautiful  sight,  be- 
sides being  great  fun. 

We  drove  to  the  Rink  wearing  morning  dress,  and 

went  out  on  a  balcony  to  look  down   upon  the  scene. 

\  It  was  like  a  fairy  pantomime  of  gigantic  size,  and  was 

\most  striking.     The  building  was  hung  with'  flags  and 

(^Hmese'  lanterrts,  and  from  one  end  to  the  othef  there 

wye  gayly-dressed  figures  of  every   sort   and   variety 


Idn^  to  skating.     When  we  went  downstairs  we  were 


ra 


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33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 
WIBSTM.N  Y    I4SI0 


4  .^. 

4lfS 


% 


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'' 


68 


^/y  CAXAD/AX  JOURXAL. 


conducted  t(,  tl.c  farther  end  ,.f  th 


in 


for 
for  us. 


iiiid  chairs  at  th 


c  edge  of  the 


t-  Kink,  wh 


CH.  V 


ere  a  plat- 


iLc  were  prepared 


Here 


we  stood,  while  the  two  sets  of 


us. 


were  danced  in   front  of 
each  couple  skated   in,  Ix.wed 
took  their  places.      I  think  1  h 


On 


'state"  lancers 


beautiful    the  lancers 
inia>,ni;e    how  the 
Kauty;  ]    never 


add  it 


c    was  a  pomlr^  set  : 
to  us  as  they  i)as.sed,  and 
ive  already  told  you  how 
you    can 


tliey  were 


'ire    when    skated,   and 
'on    of   costume   increas'es  th 
saw  anything  half  s„   prettv.      Wh 


cir 


off  too.     1 
th 


over  I),  ant!  Vxi^^X 


collected   a  i*^-^  { 


put  un  doiniii 


en 


c  children  sat  on  the  ed^f  of 


riend 


ocs,  and  skated 


s  under  my  canopy, 


the  who  I 


Ih 


c  eveninir  watching  the  il 


It,  and  we  were 


amused 


cy   came   hefore    i 


IS. 


'11 


liferent  charact 


crs  as 


«-entleman  who  passe.l  us  every 


>cre   was  one  delightful  old 


way,  acting  capitally  the  whol 


round  in  sonje  diff 


ccllent  and   large 


m 


c  time,     'i'here  was  a 


erent 
II  ex- 


(iren. 


'J'h 


t'tc,  etc.     The  lad 


I're    were    Indian 


'onkey,  wh<.  performed  for  the  chil 


s  and    Chin 


petticoats,  so  th 
Vardens,    Watte 
were!     In  fact,  t 
add 
th 


les    costinncs   had   of 


:inu'n,   cavaliers. 


ere  was  every  variety  of  peasant-Dol 


:iiis,    etc 


etc, 


and 


ve 


necessity  short 

ly 


perpetual   motion— f 


o  an  ordinary  fancy  h, 


ry    pretty    they 
ill  you  have  to 


le  ice. 


'II 


or  no  one  ever  stands  still 


le  spe(  tators  lined  the  walls.     W 


away  to  have  some  supper,  ami 


per  balcony 


to 


>'ler  it  I  sat  on  th 


on 


e  were  torn 


•'mother  set  of  lancers,  and 


see    the  general   effect.      '| 


Sir  K 


he 


e  u|)- 
y  danced 


"'"sure  that   if  they  had  not  turned  th 


ojfer  (le  Coverlev."     I 


out,   by  playing  "(lod 


era  I 


Hhould  have  been  ahl 
much. 


e  ( 

save  the   On 


•overnor-Cien- 


een. 


e  to  get  him  away,  h 


I 


never 


c  enjoyed  it  so 


h'tij, 


n 


\3i^t~.\\  visited  the  blind-scluH.h 


his  account  of  them,  I 
with  him.     H 


e   was  SI)   tuucl 


was  (piiie  sorry  not  t„  hav 


and,  from 


-  --M.y  not  to  tiave  gone 
•-^  by  .1  iiitic  blind  <hiid 


FEB.  1873 


lf7X/7:A'   a  AMES. 


wliere  a  plat- 
'f  re  prepared 


ffclmjr  his  face  all  over  with  her  tiny  fmgcrs  to  feel 
what  he  was  like. 

Siilurt/iiy,  I'lhruary  /it. — We  went  tiiis  afternoon  to 
see  some  snow-shoe  races,  anil,  for  the  first  time  since 
we  have  been  \\\  Canada,  we  were  all  t!»or(»iij,dily  cold, 
and  were  j,'lad  wlien  it  was  over. 

In  the  evening  some  K^mes  \n  the  Kink  were  very 
amusing.  One  sport  looked  dangerous:  it  was  a  hurdle- 
race,  and  the  skaters  had  to  jump  over  stiff  harriers 
placed  m  their  way.  Numbers  of  them  caught  their  feet 
on  the  top  bar,  and  came  down  ;  it  was  wonderful  that 
they  escaped  being  seriously  hurt.  The  funniest  race  to 
watch  was  the  barrel-race:  a  number  of  Hour-barrels 
without  ends  were  pl.iced  ;it   iirtervals  along  the  course. 


irrels  as  hovs; 


The  first  row  h.'d  the  same  number  of  b, 
the  seconil  and  the  third  sets  had  fewer,  for  the  com- 
petitors got  separated  and  did  not  all  reach  the  barrels 
at  the  same  time.  Kach  boy  dived  down  when  he  reached 
the  barrel,  crept  through  it,  and  skated  on,  as  fast  as 
possible,  to  the  next.  Of  (ourse  the  barrels  rolled  and 
tumbled  about  on  the  ice,  and  some  boys  were  much 
<|uicker  at  getting  through  them  than  others.  There 
were  also  backward  races,  and  girls'  races,  and  boys' 
races,  etc.,  all  on  sk^ites.     I  gave  the  prizes  at  the  end. 

Afi'fii/ii\\  jti.~h\  the  morning  we  went  to  the  Kink, 
and,  a  small  band  of  music  having  been  obtained,  thert; 
were  lancers  danced,  and  waltzes,  and  every  one  worked 
hard,  some  because  they  skate  for  the  prizes  to-mor 
aiul  some  beiause  it  was  to  be  our  last  dav  there. 


row. 


We  went  to  nn  Irish  concert  after  di 


nner. 


All  tl 


songs  were  Irish,  anjl  there  was  a  little  speechifying  be- 


tween times. 


7'ui'si/,t\\  .////.  — It  thaws  to-day,  and  is  ((insnpiently 


horrid,  but  wt*  aro  ail  full  of  i-tiif 


tement  al'uut  tlit-  sk.it^ 


Ing-niatchcs  this  afternoon.     Uucbec  has  sent  a  tlui 


am- 


'■I 


i  li 


70 


^fy  6V/\-. //;/../, V  JOURXAL. 


cir.  V 


pioti   lady,  and  has  told  her  she  ne.-rl  „»,      . 
1  i<  IM  I.-  „,rls  skal,„K  was  beautiful. 


rSsr^s^:^ 


CII.  V 


f-'turn  to  her 
w'lich  D.  has 


erestin^:,  hut 
jiiilj^cs  said 
two,   which 

ket   he   had 

-  W^entlt'iiien 
refused    to 

>df! 

lancinjLj  till 


CHAPTER    VI. 

O'JR    I-IRST    I'ARI.IAMK.NTAKY    SKSSloN. 

O i tinea :  Fruhty,  /u-huury  /^///.—Thv  curlinR-rink, 
outsitie  our  windows,  was  ready  to-day,  and  tlie  K'^ntle- 
men  h;\d  a  ^anu;  in  the  morninjj  and  skated  in  the  after- 
noon. We  i)layed  "puss  in  the  corner"  and  •'fri;:r's 
ground  "  on  skates  with  the  children,  who  were  deliglited 
with  this  idea— mine,  I  l)e^  to  say. 

Sii/i/n/tty,  /jf/i.~Cur\\nu:  and  skatinji  are  our  exer- 
cises every  day.  We  have  iiad  a  ^r  at  consultation  over 
our  arranjrenients  for  tne  "  season."  During  Lent  there 
can  i)e  no  balls,  but  we  shall  have  some  plays.  'I'wo 
pieces,  "The  Tirst  Ninbt  "  ami  "To  Obliire  IJenson," 
are  already  in  hand,  and  we  are  to  have  one  play  each 
week,  and  each  play  twite.  This  will  ^ive  us  four  en- 
tertainments. After  Kaster  we  shall  awe  a  big  ball  in 
the  new  room. 

For  the  openinjj  of  Parliament  wc  have  invited  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Howland.  with  whom  wc  stayed  in  Toronto, 
to  come  to  us.  The  meetinj;  is  on  the  5th,  and  we  have 
a  Cabinet  dinner  the  night  before,  athnner  the  day  afttr, 
an  ice-party  on  Friday,  ami  a  small  dinner  on  Saturday. 

I  suppose  the  House  will  "sit"  all  throURh  ,\pril.  so 
that  we  can  ask  the  jSo  members  to  dinner  before  they 
leave  Ottawa. 

The  children's  dreadful  colds  are  all  better,  but  the 


72 


m 


'^"'  CAXADUX  JOUR'XAI.. 


f  ^-^-r  'His  me  l,c  has  h.„l  over  , 
,At  one  o\:U,rk  in   the  n.^h     h,    ^ '"''' ''^  ^''^  ■*^-'"«- 
•^^•'-v  .ero,  an<J  at  c  en    he  J  ^'^^'?'""^''-  was  .0° 
-"■e  of  seventy  de^^reew  o  -f  ,•    '''  '°    '''"'^■^-•^  ^'^^^'r- 
l>^'"Ple  catch  cohls !       "  '  "''^  extraordinary  that 

'^-  <'"ntinues  to  feci  nuh., 

"■";;;;;;;; '>-;in>c.,i„u:j;::;: ,;;;''  """^- '"  "«-"■ 

■"";■'  at  l„„„„  i„  ,„;  ,„,,'•■""''•  -..I  as  1  „a.|  ,„  ,,. 
""''  '<  ""^  »ea,l,„  has  „„  '  ""'"'■'''  •■»  vi-silors, 

»ide.  "■'"  '""^l'«l  .l.scssint-  it  ,.n  every 

"'i-y  are  |,l..asc,l  ,„      '    ,. ."  ""■  '•"•""l'laM„l„er,  „.|,i,,, 

ww.ll   ,„is«,|„.  hall,  if  ,„„  ,,,'"'•  ■""'  «Ml,"(,|,! 
PaiHT."  ■''''""•»'=  area  rc.|igi„„s 

'•"/""'"water'a,;,,!:'    ,:;:';;■''•:'[  ^""Mce  was 
>."""«.     Wc-  shall  have  •,   ■'  ''"'  ""'  """"  i» 

'"'^•••a  <l"s  a,„l  „„„„    r-    ,  ,  Z  T"'"':  """'"  ""*■""■  ''- 

"."•••  -""  -aam, ,iriv,;:a:;';,f  ■•'''"«  r"""-- 

P"i«:  around  us.  ^  '^  ""•  ^'^•t-'rytlnn^r  ^jrip. 

i^^^^^iivilm^ro-'h";-;':^ 

'V./..,/,;,,  .../^n  :"     '•^'  '"'"^'  '-^--^^  «ti"  fancy  free. 

«rrived  at 'twelve   th      ,;"'"''"  ^^'"'^^^  '*-'-»  ' 
iM  »^'>v-    uns  inortiHiif  fo  r.,i, 

^"'^y  none  of  them   knew  it  i     H  ! ,     '^'^'^^."'^  P'^^-. 


'!'!!!■ 


arc 


CH.  vr 

"f  llie  same. 
:ter  was  20° 
'■t^— a  differ- 
riJinary  that 

>rtable,and 
"  tlie  suni- 

il'ivf  this 
liad  to  re- 

?.?  visitors, 
I't'cn   e.\- 

t  on  every 

■ered  rink 
iiccessfnl, 

^^a  mi  It  on 
r,  which, 
1  drop  in 
^1  for  de- 
i<I,  "Oh! 
■t-'ligioiis 

ice  was 

inter  is 
V//V  he- 
iiil"»ssi. 
K  ilrip. 

Its  are 
<ree. 
iison  ' 
piece, 
arc 


MARCH  1873       OP/:X/X(;   OF  rAKI.lAMllXT. 
Fred  and  Mr.  C 


73 


^reU  and  Mr.  Coulson,  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Stuart,  and  a 
nice-lookinjr  Miss  Himsworth.  After  hnuh  the'rcst  of 
the  world  arrived  to  skate.  It  was  a  lovely  afternoon, 
and  they  practiced  the  lancers,  while  I  looked  on  at  the 
t()bo^;raninJ,^  and  just  missed  seeing  a  disagreeable  si^rht. 
Little  Kdward  Fletcher  was  standmj^r  tlreamin.ir  in  the 
middle  of  the  hill,  and  as  a  tobo;,rjran  was  coming  fast 
down  upon  him  the  |)eople  on  the  toj)  shouted  to  him  to 
get  out  of  the  way:  but  he  did  not  hear,  and  the  tobog- 
gan, with  a  young  lady  in  it,  lifted  him  right  up  m  the 
air.  She  got  her  eye  cut,  and  had  a  bump  on  her  fore- 
head.     It  might  have  been  a  i)ad  accident. 

After  the  outdoor  |)arty  we  had  a  dance  to  warm 
ourselves,  and  all  went  home  at  6.,^o. 

Sir  John  and  I.ady  Mac.lonald,  and  M.  Langevin, 
arrived,  to  stay  till  Monday.  Sir  John  is  the  I'rnnJ 
Minister,  and  .\I.  Langevin  the  I'ublic  Works,  who  has 
built  our  ball-room  and  does  all  our  improvements. 

Moihhiy,  .JA//,7/. v.— To-morrow  the  Session,  with  its 
duties,  connnences. 

Tui\u/ay,4(/i.—\s  the  dancing  is  over  for  the  present, 
I  have  been  !)usy  all  morning  refurnishing  my  big  draw- 
ing-r<.„m,  which  has  hithert..  been  kept  as  a  ball-room 
Ihe  new  room  is  nearly  ready,  and  is  very  handsome 
It  IS  to  be  opened  as  a  theatre,  and  we  are  having  such 
a  pretty  stage  put  up.  I.ady  Harriet  Fletcher  has  come 
over  to  s|)end  a  few  days,  for  a  change,  and  to  help  me 
to  entertain  Mrs.  Howland. 

We  had  our  Cabinet  dinner;  all  men.  except  I,.ndy 
Harriet  and  me,  the  two  ladies  of  the  house.  I  sat  be- 
tween the  Prime  Minister,  Sir  John,  and  the  Postmaster- 
(.cneral,  Mr,  Campi)ell.  They  were  both  very  pleasant 
neighi)()rs.  All  were  in  uniform,  and  all  full  of  anima- 
tion  and  ready  for  the  fray. 

IVtiinesiiay,  jt/,.~-\\\  the  aftcrn(.un,  1).  dressed  in  uni- 


74 


.VK  CAXADIAX  JOCA'XAL 


ill 


J 


CH.  VI 

^.rm,  and  drcye  in  a  sleiffh-and-four,  escorted  by  troops. 
A  I.C.s,  and  secretaries,  to  direct  his  faithful  Lords 
and  Commons  to  choose  a  Speaker.  This  did  not  take 
very  ion,,  and  on  his  return  we  went  and  sat  at  the 
Knik  n,  delicious  sunshine  for  a  couple  of  hours 

////^'■.v;/</)',^///.-The  openin^r  of  J'arliament.     MavinLr 

";lress,n    the   .nidclle  of  the  day.  I  was  la.v,  and  dul 

'"t  appear  at  all  till    I  was  auayed   in    my  linerv      His 

Kx.    wore    the    (;overn<,r's    uniform,    like    that  'of    the 

m  lent     '1;";'  '■  "''"  "'  '^-  ^ ''^"^'^'  -^^'  -'^j^^j 

•      U.pt   on  a      the  tmie.       Mrs.    Howland  and  I,   Mr. 
at  .sson  and  Mr.  Curtis,  went  in  the  f.rst  carria.^e,  M.ss 
a^-e  and  three  children  in  the  ne.xt.     Ue  arrived  some 
-nc  before  the  C.overnor-Ceneral,  and  I  was  conducted 
to  my  seat  by  the  Gentleman-Usher  of  the  JJlack   Rod 
he  Chamber  looked   very  well.      I  sat  to  the   left  of 
the  throne,  and  down  each  side  of  the  Senate  were  rows 
of  ladies  ,n  full  dress  ;  the  Senators  were  on  tne  floor  of 
he  Hou.se,  and  the   galleries   were   full  to  the  ceilinir 
clrove  in  an  open  slei,.h  with  four  horses,  accompanied 
)>  Mr.  How  and  and   Colonel  Fletcher.     Mr.  Holbeach 
nllowed  with  Fred.     As  they  came  up  to  the  buildinjr 
twenty-one  ffuns  were  fired.     The   HIack   Rod   met   the 
procx^ssion  and  walked  backwards,  bowing  all  the  way, 
H.s  Ivxcellency  ^^ettin^r  more  stern-looking  everv  minute. 
VVhen  the  procession  arrived  at  the  Senate-Chan.ber,  we 
all   stood    up,  and  waited   until  the  Governor-C.eneral 
having  taken  his  seat  on  the  throne,  re.p.ested  us  to  be 

The  Cornmons  were  sent  for.  and  we  sat  in  solemn 
sdence  till  they  came.  D.  then  read  his  speech,  first  in 
laiirhsh,  and  then  all  over  ajjain  in  French  ;  and  everv- 
thing  that  was  said  was  repeated  in  the  two  lan^uiaKt^s 
I  hen  (olonel  Fletcher  carried  the  speeches  to  the 
Speakers  of  both  Houses,  and  so  the  ceremony  ended, 


CH.  VI 

1  by  troops, 
hful  I.ortls 
id  not  take 
sat  at  the 
irs. 

t.    Havinjr 
-^y,  aiul  did 
iit-ry.      His 
lat   of    the 
nd  cocked 
ind  I,   Mr. 
'iii^v,  Miss 
ived  some 
coiuhicted 
lack   Rod. 
lie  left  of 
were  rows 
le  fl(jor  of 
le  ceiling. 

om])anied 

Holbeach 

l)tiilding 

met   the 

the  way, 

y  minute. 

mher,  we 

-General, 

ns  to  be 

1  solemn 
1,  first  in 
d  every- 
iijiiuajfes. 
to  the 
y  ended, 


MARCH  1873     r.iA'/.iAMr.xr.tKv  d/xxeks. 


and   we   went  awav  a 


75 


s  we  came.  'I'he  children  were 
much  interested,  hut  remarked  upon  Papa's  gravity; 
they  thought  it  a  pn^pcr  occasion  to  be  wreathed  in 
smiles. 

Saiur(/(iy,  cW/.— We  had  rather  a  pleasant  dinner- 
party of  Ministers.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Howland  seemed 
very  happy,  and  she  looked  very  smart  in  blue  velvet. 
The  Speaker  of  the  Senate  came  to  stay  with  us. 

Monday,  lo/i. — Tlie  frost  seemed  to  have  returned, 
so  we  sent  out  our  invitations  for  a  skating-party  for 
this  afternoon.  The  day  was,  however,  too  lovely,  and 
the  ice,  which  had  been  in  splendid  order,  got  cpiile  soft. 
It  is  possible  to  be  happy  on  doubtful  ice  here,  as  we 
know  there  is  no  water  under  it,  and  that  it  is  only  snow 
sprinkled.  The  skaters  kept  in  one  shady  corner,  and  I 
and  my  guests  sat  on  the  brink,  and  were  cpiite  warm 
and  comfortable. 

We  had  another  dinner-party — our  farewell  entertain- 
ment to  the  Mowlands. 

Tuesday,  nt/i.—'SU.  and  Mrs.  Howland  left  this  morn- 
ing in  a  snowstorm,  ami  we  remained  in  the  house  all 
day.  (Ireat  arrangements  and  discussions  go  on  about 
the  coming  Drawing-room:  Who  is  to  have  the  <7///vr? 
Who  is  to  have  seats?  Which  way  are  these  people  to 
come  in,  and  whith  way  those  ?  Where  is  Her  Excel- 
lency's cloak  to  be  taken  off?  etc.,  etc.  Then  I, — not 
being  very  well,  and  having  meekly  asked  to  have  a  tall 
office-stool  behind  me.  against  which  I  miifht  occasion- 
ally lean, — an  architect  and  several  carpeiU.-rs  have  been 
busily  engaged  in  making  a  design — ground-plan  and 
elevation  —  of  a  complicated  and  splendid  erection, 
crowned  by  a  vase  of  (lowers,  and  covered  with  crims(>n, 
which  is  to  appear  as  a  part  of  the  throne,  but  which  is 
to  be  scooped  out  for  me  to  sit  on ;  and  a  recpiest  for 
my  exact  height  has  been  forwarded  to  me,  that  all  may 


76 


Ih 


n 


Ji  if 


^/y   CANADI.iX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  VI 


be  correct.     Tl 


bcr,  aiul  bf;th  Houses  of  J'arl 


Ills  ceremony  uill  l,e  in  the  Senate-Cha 


th( 


m- 

le  occasion.  ""'^"'''  ''"''"  ^^>'"^"^-J  for 

\\'e  also  had  a  discussion  as  to  whether  we  could  put 

of  our  t   eatr.cals  on   Thursday,  for  Mar.o  and  Carlotta 

atti,  who  were  to   have  ^^iven  a  concert  to-day,  have 

been  snowbound,  and  can  not  ,.et   here  untU   thai  day 

cppcr  s  (,host  IS  also  teann^r  its  hair  at  the  number  of 
gayet,es  .n  Ottawa,  and  wrote  an  entertaining  ap,  L     t 
U  to  come  hn.self  on  Friday,  so  we  could  n.'t    ake     .e 
•hos   sday;  after  much  consideration  we  keep  Ti  u 
day.  but  try  to  ,.et   Mario  and  C.  i'atti   to  sin,,  a    o  ' 
here  a  fer  our  play;  it  will   l.e  very  nice  if  thej    an  do 
o.     lhearran,.ement  of  our  political  dinners  also  re 
<iu.res  some  thought.     We  have  to  stu<Iy  wh.ch  pa  ty  the 
proposed    guests  belong  to:    wh.ch   provinc  ,' "    ^t  ' 
nchor  Kngbsh-Upper  or   Lower  Canada,  thei. 
c.al   K.smon,  etc.,  etc.,  so  that  the  dinners  ma;  be  m.l 
as  pleasant  as  possible  to  the  guests 

h.d''^tr''''  "^''-'^''^   ^-^   '-^-  -'d  warm,  and  ice 
bad.      ^Ve  are    .sorry,  as    this   evening    two   very   irood 

ttc  ,|r«se,l  incur  l.ist  for  the  nrawin<r.r„„m  n,„i 

tl..>  K'nu,d  arrangements  we  got  „„t  at  the  vvr  2     ,. 
b..t  everyth.ng  else  wen,  „ff  verv  well.     The  Mi'      '  J 
WC'.U  ,n  w„h  ns,  an,l  we  st„„.l  l./.he  thr.,„e-I  w    I    „v 

::,'rr;;::;;r  "■'""■-'"' -•"•---:i; 

n„n,l.n;  ,jll,.-\Wt  had  a  great  party  to-night  and 

°  r.;;   "",'•  -»■  ' •■•     •'■"■=  «..-.»  assembled  -tt  n    e 

a..d  after  hav.ng  some  tea  were  e,..„.!„c,ed  through  u,' 


CH.  VI 

late-Cham- 
ourned  for 

■  could  put 
d  Carl(;tta 
■day,  have 

that  day  ; 
-uming  to 
rood  deal, 
luimber  of 
appeal  to 

take  the 
"P  Thiirs- 
!«■  a  song 
-y  can  do 
I  also  re- 
party  the 

whether 
their  so- 
hti  made 

and  ice 
ry  gootl 
and  one 

om,  and 
te  of  all 
ig  door, 
tinisters 
kvith  my 
I'll  a  tors, 

:Iit,  and 
It  nine, 
igh  un- 


MARi;n  1873 


T//£A  TRIG  A  IS. 


77 


known  passages  to  their  future  ball-room,  where  they 
found  300  chairs  arranged  m  rows,  in  front  of  a  very 
pretty  little  stage,  and  a  band  dressed  in  the  gorgeous 
uniform  of  the  (lovernor-Cleneral's  (iuards.  'l"he  enter- 
tainment began  with  music,  and  was  followed  by  "  To 
Oblige  IJenson,"  which  went  off  admirably.  People 
were  particularly  delighted  with  Fred's  performance- 
he  did  the  i)art  of  Trotter  Southdown;  and  Mrs.  South- 
down was  excellent,  too. 

Just  as  they  finished,  Mario  and  M.  Saury,  a  violin- 
player,  arrived.  They  came  as  guests,  and  would  hear 
of  no  terms.  After  a  little,  I),  asked  Mario  to  sing,  and 
the  audience  were  greatly  delighted  at  his  doing  so 
twice.  The  vit)lin-player  was  also  a  great  treat.  It  was 
wonderfully  kind  of  both  gentlemen  to  perform  for  us, 
as  they  only  arrived  at  Ottawa  at  five  in  the  afternoon, 
and  came  direct  from  a  concert.  This  delightful  music 
made  our  party  a  great  success.  We  went  straight  into 
sujjper  afterward,  and  it  took  some  time  to  feed  and 
"si)eed  "  the  parting  300. 

Friday,  i4tli.—\  kept  this  as  a  ilay  of  rest,  and  in 
the  evening  dispatched  my  young  party,  under  Lady 
Harriet's  chaperonage,  to  see  "  I'ejjper's  Ohost."  She 
does  not  seem  to  have  been  a  good  duenna,  for  she  said 
"good  night  "  to  the  young  men  and  m;iidcns  directly 
they  were  seated,  and  slept  composed!  .hrough  the 
whole  lecture. 

SatttrdiiY,  75///.  — It  began  to  pour  with  rain  this  after- 
noon, and  the  roads  were  very  bad  for  our  dinner-i)arty. 
We  had  one  of  thirty  people — the  first  of  a  long  series 
of  similar  dinners  to  be  given  every  Saturday  for  three 
months.  The  guests  were  culled  from  all  parts  of  Can- 
ada ;  we  had  representatives  from  the  shores  of  the 
Atlantic,  the  Pacific,  the  St.  Lawrence,  Lake  Huron; 
Upper  and  Lower  Canadians,  French,  English  and  Scotch, 


!l 


78 


■I! 


:|| 


^/y  CAXAD/AX  /OUAW'AL. 


CIL  VI 

cn::;!;;t).^'''  '"'^'""""^  ^^^  conservatives  (the  Gov- 

and'h!.";f''  '""'^  ""^  ''^^>'   •'•''' ^  ''^  '^'-v  fearfully 
ri  ""^"'    '"   '   ''^'y    '-«^    -"^-v   ,n   our    new 

J/W.,,  .7M.-Another   young    ladv,   a   Miss   Mac 
P  erson  from  Toronto,  came  to  stay  wuhus.  so  no.  .^ 
have   representatives  of    the  three   .rr^^-.f   t 
house.  *'     '^^   ^"^^■"'^  '"  our 

iycd/lt'S(/a\\   /0//5.— We    werp  nut   -.11   ♦! 

♦  ,.„  ;      •        /     ^  ^"^^  ""'  ^"  the  morn  ns-'  but 

the  ice  IS  soft  and  the  snow  wet 

Two  tourists  came  to  skate,  in  wonderful  costumes- 

r.ped  red-anu-yellow  stocking.,  moccasins,  brigl     bL' 

blanket-coats     with    embr<„dered    shoulder-piece      and 

Alban.an  scarfs  round  the.r  waists.     We  ask  d  til.  to 

dme  with  us  before  the  play. 

F,rst"St"""n""'M"'''"'''  ""'  ""'''^'''''^  -^h  "The 
bv   if   ,^     ,  .     "^  ^"°''  ^"^  '""■'^^  splendidly  done 

y  M.  K.mber.  and  the  singing  introduced  before  and 
clunng  the  piece  was  excellent 

/'W.n',  2m.-l  took  a  drive  in  the  afternoon,  and  at 
four  went  to  the  Houses  of  Parliament  to  pay  mv  rs 
v.s.t  there.  I  have  a  seat  on  the  floor  o  the  Ho  e 
next  to  the  Speaker's.  The  business  was  not  v  ry  i  t  .' 
estmg,  but  I  was  rather  amused,  as  a  number  of  people 
made  very  short  speeches,  and  one  saw  their  "tricks 
and  their  manners." 

Sa/unfay,  29th -\n  the  evening  we  had  a  large  Par- 
I.amentary  dmner.  One  of  my  near  neighbors  was  very 
-nterest.ng.  He  .s  a  ■'  working-man  -  n.ember  ;  we  1  ad 
met  h.m  soon  after  his  election,  when  he  dined  in  a 
rough  coat  but  now  he  wears  evenmg  clothes  ;  he  talked 
•so  l^leasantly,  and  was  full  of  information.  One  of  our 
Ruest.s,  a  French  c:anadian,  made  great  efforts  to  reach 
t.^c   nursery  when   he  heard   the  children   romping   up- 


M 


en.  VI 
(ilie  Gov- 

fearfully, 
our    new 

^liss  Mac- 
io  now  we 
ns  in  our 

ning;  but 

:;oHtumes  : 

'ight  blue 

eces,    and 

Miem  to 

ith  "  The 
idly  done 
■(ore  and 

n,  and  at 
my   first 

Mouse, 
ry  iiuer- 
f  people 

"  tricks 

■Jje  Par- 
f'as  very 
we  iiad 
cd  in  a 
i  talked 
of  our 
o  rcacli 
ing  up- 


APRiL  1873        PARUAMEXTARY  DIXXERS. 


79 


stairs,  and  told  nic  he  was  most  curious  to  see  "  le  lord." 
I  think  he  imagined  Archie*  must  be  very  i)eculiar. 

lVt'iiucs(/av,  April  2d. — We  drove  into  Ottawa  on 
wheels.  I),  goes  \\\  every  week  to  have  titc-a-titc  inter- 
views with  different  Members  of  Parliament.  This  even- 
ing there  was  a  vote  of  want  of  confidence  in  the  Gov- 
ernment, but  the  Ministers  won  by  thirty-three. 

We  had  "  Benson  "  ft)r  the  last  time  ;  very  well  done, 
and  much  appreciated.  The  children  helped  to  warm 
up  the  audience  by  their  shrieks  of  delight. 

Friday,  4th.  —  Two  men  dined  with  us;  one,  the 
Speaker  of  the  Legislature  in  Manitoba,  wiio  has  lately 
been  tarred-and-feathered  i)y  the  people,  and  who  came 
to  relate  his  experiences  of  that  operation.  The  other, 
a  Mr.  Otley — a  nephew  of  Sir  Hastings  Doyle's,  who  has 
been  engineering  near  the  Rock)  .Nb)untains — has  walked 
hundreds  of  miles  on  snow-shoes,  lived  for  months  on 
salt  pork,  been  eaten  by  moscpiitoes  in  summer,  ard 
slept  and  lived,  unprepared  for  winter,  in  an  atmosphere 
40°  below  zero.     He  came  out  with  us  in  the  Prussian. 

Tuesday,  Sth. — I  went  to  the  House,  as  a  scrimmage 
was  expected.  First,  there  was  great  excitement  over 
the  Easter  holidays— what  length  they  should  be— and 
then  a  party  motion  about  which  there  was  a  great  deal 
of  interest.  The  Opposition  had  asked  for  a  Committee 
to  intpiire  into  the  conduct  of  members  of  the  Govern- 
ment, accusing  them  of  bribery.  They  lost,  and  then 
the  Government  itself  ask-nl  for  the  same  Committee, 
saying  they  courted  inquiry.  There  was  a  good  deal  of 
irritation  about  the  whole  affair. 

Tuesday,  /j/Z/.—The  two  Miss  Rethuncs  arrived  yes- 
terday to  stay  a  week  with  us,  and  we  opened  our  new 
ball-room  this  evening.     It  is  a  fine  room,  very  lofty  and 


Viscuuiit  Claiulcboyc, 


I 


80 


^/V  CAXADIAX  JOURXAL, 


cir.  VI 


wcll-proportionecl.     It  has  not  yet  1 


decorated  it  with  white-and-bl 
bunches  of  pink  roses.     'J'hese 


and  doors,  and 
pillar 


appeared  to  be  twisted 


yet  been  painted,  so  we 
ue  twists  of  tarlatan  and 
-Micircied  all  the  wind 


pillars  af,'ainst   the  wall   and   ac 


ows 
round  the  flat 


crimsrtn  throne  was  at 


on 


ross  the  corners.     Th( 


e  end  of  the  ro 


was  a  place  for  the  band  at  the  other.     Th 


oni,  and  there 


hall,  billiard-  and  te 


:i-r 


my  boudoir,  and  th 


oonis,  the  i)as,sajre  lead 


tlie  latter  beinjr  jijrhted 
lar^re  drawinjr-rooin  and  d 
f 


e  conservatory,  looked  very 


with    ("hinese    lant 


e  ante-room, 

up  to 

pretty, 


"iR 


erns. 


'Ih( 


'•r  supi)er,  and  seated  140  at  a  t 


'iiinjr.,,,,,,,,  were  both  arran^^'d 


were  present,  and,  they  say,  all  were  pleased 


'lie.     Some  650  peopU 


T/iurs<iay,  M,iv  /s/. — 'III 


weather.     The  sun  1 


is  week  we  have  had  loveh 


We  h 


s  (piite  hot,  and  I 


;ive  put  up  a  tent  on  the  1, 


ani  out  all  day, 


the  family  play  football,   marl 


oth 


er  Kames,  to  the  «:rc-at  drli-lu  of 


iwn,  and  every  aft 
>les,  prisoner's  base, 


ernoon 


We  find   Pari 


'anient  is  likely  to  sit  another  ten  d, 


sn  we  aave  jrjven  up  all   idea  of 


anc 


I  vs. 


present.     We  are  rather  afraid  ,.f  the  1 
qnitoes  here,  hut  it  can  not  be  helped. 


movin;,r  to  Qudje, 


at 


leat  and  the  mo.'- 


Fiiifaw  2d.~\ 
noticeinthepaper  that  I  should  [ 


ncourayed  by  the  lovely  weather,  I  put 


intending'  to  receive  penpl 


)e  "at  home  "  to-d 


»y, 


I)and  there,  and  at  five  to  Ut  tl 


le  in  the  j^rarden,  have  tea  and 


the   ball-room.     '|'h 


lose  who  liked  dance 


m 


miserable,  and  the  after 


e   mornmj.-  was,    however,  cold  and 


t<»  sit   in   the  dr 

and    they   danced    ind 


loon  poured  with  rain:  so  I  had 


iwuiy-room.     About   fifty  peopi 


oors  all    the   t 


e  came. 


I'-Tcntly  ,p,i,e  happy.     Nine  child 


amusements,  the  littl 
quite  at  home  with  the  st 


ime,   and  were  ap- 
ren  took  part  in  the 


<•  ones  likiiij;  (he  band,  and 


Satitn/it 


faiiyers. 


Ketlin^f 


t"-Uay,  anti   f 


I'.  ..V.—The  provoking  weati 


am  under  my  tent 


ler  was  line  aL'a 


in 


once  more.     Mr.  ami 


CH.  VI 


MAY  1873 


I'A'/A'CE   EDWARD'S  iSLAXD. 


8r 


Mrs.  Ryan  and  her  dauKliter  arrivc'd  from  Montreal  to 
stay  Sunday  with  us.  Mr.  Ryan  is  a  very  pleasant  Irish 
Senator,  his  wife  a  very  nice  Swiss-Kreneh  laily.  for 
whom  he  waited  forty  years,  she  marrying  some  one  else 
in  the  meantime. 

Tfii/rsJay,  m.~-\  saw  Lady  Macdonald  on  'liies- 
day,  the  day  that  Sir  John  nuule  his  splenchd  speech 
in  the  House,  with  which  1-red  was  so  greatly  de- 
lighted. 

Fn\/,i\\  (^t/i.—\  advertised  that  I  should  be  "at  home 
between  three  and  six  "  this  afternoon.  Part  of  the  en- 
tertainment was  to  be  out  of  do(.rs,  and  i)ar  .  '{'he 
weather  was  very  doubtful  all  the  morning;  but  we  took 
courage,  had  the  tea  laid  on  the  lawn,  put  up  a  tent  and 
down  a  carpet,  turned  the  drawing-room  chairs  out  into 
the  garden,  and  at  three  were  rewarded  !)y  the  com- 
mencement of  a  really  fine  afternoon. 

I  received  in  the  tent,  and  the  company  sat  and 
walked  about  listening  to  the  duards'  baud  till  after 
four,  when  they  went  into  tlie  ball-room  and  tianced  very 
vigorously  for  the  rest  of  the  time;  but  I  stayed  in  the 
garden  and  watched  the  dancers  come  <»ut  to  the  tc, 
and  talked  to  a  few  of  the  old  people,  though  most  of 
them  danced,  too. 

Safitr.hy,  fo///.^y\r.  Coulson  left  us  to-day.  We  were 
sorry  to  lose  liim,  and,  I  think,  he  was  sorry  to  go.  He 
joins  his  regiment  (r)oth  Ritles)  at  Halifax. 

We  had  our  last  Tarliamentary  dinner  for  this  Ses- 
sion. 'I'he  I'rime  Minister  of  Prince  Kdward's  Island 
and  some  colleagues  of  his,  wli(»  are  here  to  try  and 
arrangt;  about  joining  the  Confederation,  dined. 


U'luhirstfaw  A.////.— Fred  went  to  d 


ine  in  Ottawa,  Lady 


Harriet  was  having  tea  with  me,  and  1).,  the  (^)l()nel,  and 
tl-.e  l^ortor  were  looking  for  fossils,  when,  to  my  great 
surprise,  T,ord   (leorgc  ('ampl)el!  was   annoiinced— the 


f 


82 


^1/K  CAXAD/AJV  /OURXAL. 


CII.  VI 


Duke  of  Argyll's  sailor  son.     \Vc  sent  to  the  hotel  for 


liis  tliinj(s 


ThursJay,  /j///._  l-Ved  took 


the  afternoon   ih 
liiake  to  the  House 


our  jrucst  a  ride,  and  ii 


ey  went  with   I. 


W 


dy  n 


irriet   and    Miss 


arr 


anj^^ed   for  a  yonn;^^  ladv   wl 


«.■  Iiad  a  dinner-party,  which 


was 


Kn>,dishir.an. 


i<»   IS  K"Iu;j:  to  marry  ai 


and   who   wanted    to   dine   here   l)ef 


'•re  she 


went  home.  We  asked  two  other  ,drls,  and  put  the  smart 
ynun.Mnan  between  them!  O.idly  enou.d,.  an  old  ship- 
'>  .'te  of  h.s.  whom  he  had  not  seen  for  four  years,  was 
also  at  dnmer. 

Prince  Kdward's  Island  has  eome  into  the  Confeder- 
at.on.  so  the  dovernor-denerai's  dominion  iseniarued; 
but  he  loses  one  of  his  titles.  '*'t.^". 

.W./.;r  .rt'<.~\  li„K.  'jriH  ,vas  horn  this  day.  and 
the  Queen  has  telegraphed  that  she  will  he  her  V^od- 
mother.  *' 


en.  VI 

!  hotel  for 


U\  and  in 
and  Miss 
tvliich  was 
marry  an 
ilorc  she 
I  hi-  smart 
old  sliip- 
ears,  was 

"onfi'dcT- 
:iilargcd  ; 

(lay,  and 
Ikt  j4{)d- 


a 
1 


('HAl'TKR   VH. 


ON     rilK    sr.    I,AWKI.M  K. 


TufSi/iiY,  June  iotli.~\SKi  lift  Ottawa  this  morninjj 
very  early,  jj^oiny  by  rad  to  I'rcscott,  with  our  whole 
family,  tlu'  mw  baby  ini-liidcd.  'I'lurr  wo  j,rot  into  a 
steamer,  and  sat  all  day  on  deck.  We  had  a  deli;,dilful 
cruise  down  the  river,  and  an  excitin;,'  descent  of  the 
Rapids.  In  one  i)lace  we  passed  within  a  few  inches  of 
a  wreck,  and  we  felt  ipiite  creepy.  At  Montreal  we 
changed  steamers.  The  children  were  deli;,ditcd  witli 
the  ^nandeur  of  the  .St.  Lawrence  boats,  with  their  enor- 
mous saloons  and  state-cai)ins.  When  we  were  at  tea 
we  heard  some  music  — the  "Dead  March  "  — Ijcin^r 
played;  and  looking:  out.  wi-  saw,  passinj^  slowly  in  tiie 
darkness,  the  steamer  with  the  body  of  Sir  (leorjje  ('ar- 
tier* on  board;  it  was  a  strikin;,^  moment— tlie  chapel 
on  board  Ii^^hled  up.  the  band  playinjr.  and  l)ells  tollin^j 
at  sea,  answered  by  i)ells  tollinjj  on  shore. 

U'eiincsihy,  ////t.—Wc  awoke  at  Quebec,  and  found  it 
wet  and  cold.     In  spite  of  the  weather  and  the  early 
hour,  we  had  a  friendly  welcome  fn.m  the  pef)ple. 
MoiiJay,  i6tli.-'X\w  little  baby's  christcninjr-day  ' 
A  larjre  bouquet  had  been  sent  me  in  the  mornin)^^, 


•  Sir  (a'dfKc  Carlior,  lalc  memlicr  for  Munlrcnl  r.ist.  \m\  <lif<l  in 
En^;Iallll.  He  wuh  n  (lesii'iidniit  of  the  fuinous  Jan|iu'<i  ("nrlicr  wlio.  in 
1534,  '•'"••-  i«»s5«i53ion  of  Cmada  in  t!ic  jiainc  of  IVauti.,  1,  King  of 
Franco. 


I 


84 


^fy  caa;ad/a.v  journal. 


V\\.  \'\X 

a.Hi   iH-autifuI   Hou-cTs  for  the  font,  by  Mr    I  cvi      Tl 
Cathedral  was  full  of  neonl..  •   T  i,    .  ",  "'^' 

drcn   there   md    tL  '  '^  "^v  whole  six  ehil- 

victoria  Alexandrma  Muriel  M'iv"iw.i,.       i     .    .     ''"> 

-.....,,.,.  u..,,,.,,,:i  :---;- 

Mct.her,  "^rodmother"-   Sir   r,.hM    \\f       ,    '  ■     ''' 

-';- .  ^^..  and  a  ^.;,:;:./tcL !;;: -::^^^ 

j^^^^^^^_  'M>t^v,a„d  to  knock  down  ail  the  prayer- 

^Ve  came  home  and  rested  a  little   -ind  -.f  f 
"at  homi^  "     'n,  "uie,  and  at  four  I  was 

H.»  e  ',;  :r;':;':;,^ "',"""," '•^'  "■• """  '"■■  "- 

I  lu-re  IS  a  new  I-ieutcnant-Oovernor  Ii^m   ..,.  i        i 

-  -,  I-..  fa,„ii>..  ,„„  .■,,,,,,,1,,,.;  ;,   ;;  ;;  ° 


rn.  vif 

-cvi.  'I'he 
'e  six  chil- 
'w.  Lady 
i<imiral)ly, 
tlfliiyc  of 

:— Afysclf 
I-ady  H. 
ki,  '^frnd- 

s  |>rcst'iit. 

Ilail;,r|,ty, 

t'ltorts  to 
L'  J)rayer- 

11  r  I  was 
-rs  went 
eiiin^r  to 
vork  an- 

stir  for 

iif  was 

IKISSC'd 
IX'St.       I 

sliaken 
do  you 

\.  I).  C. 

ki'Il  I'll- 
family 
lu'alth. 
ctions. 
til  five 
nvcnt, 

as  he 

State 

it  (ai;t 


JUNK  1873 


VICE  REG  A  L   FUXC  TIONS. 


85 


established  is,  that  the  Governor-deneral  and  I,  on  pid)- 
lic   occasions,   walk    first  ;   Mis   Honor,  the   Lieutenant- 
(lovernor  and  his  wife  follow.     Ikil  the  five  Lieutenant- 
Princesses  have  also  to  be  seated  in  proper  positions, 
and    when    (as   to-day)    I    take  three  of  my  family  the 
A.  1).  C'.s  tear  their  hair!      Priests  met  lis  at  the  convent 
door,  and  we  proceeded    to  the  room  where  the  prizes 
were   to   be  Riven,  which    was  filled   with  ju-ople.     'I'lie 
nuns  did  not  api)ear  at  all.     I  found  in  front  of  me  trays 
full  of  books,  and  as  the  names  of  the  winners  were  read 
out,  with  an  account  of  their  various  merits,  they  walked 
past,  and  I  presentetl  them  with  books.     There  were  at 
least  200  prizes,  every  )rirl  in  the  school,  I  am  sure,  hav- 
ing jrained  from  one  to  six  "rewards  of  merit."      I'hen  1 
crowned    six    of   the    most   remarkal)ly  virtuous  younjj 
ladies.     The  first  three  wreaths,  alas  I   I   imt   on  wronjr 
side  foremost,  but  perceiving'  that  the  },nrls  managed  to 
turn  them  round,  I  was  more  care  ful,  and  was  at  the  end 
complimented  ui)on  the  way  m  which    I  placed  them  on 
their    heads.     Between    each    trayful    of  books  we  had 
music.     The   ceremony    lasted   two    hours.     One    lady 
fainted,  but  the  children  bore  it  admirably,  and   I   took 
them  to  a  field  of  cut  grass  to  refresh  them  when  it  was 
over. 

We  dined  at  six,  for  we  liad  to  go  out  early  to  cele- 
brate the  200th  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. "Why  on  earth?"  you  will  exclaim.  Well,  I 
don't  (|uite  know  why,  but  tlie  J.aval  University  has  to 
find  some  object  for  a  yearly  fck,  and  tiie  discoverers 
were  French-Canatlians. 

'I'he  celeI)ration  was  a  tremendous  affair.  For  three 
hours  I  sat  on  a  very  hard  and  stately  arm-chair,  with 
my  I.ieutenant-Ciovernor  beside  me,  on  my  right  an 
empty  space,  on  the  other  side  of  which  .sat  His  Ex.  and 
his  I.ieutenant-doverness. 


i|!r 


!  ! 

r   i 


ll   I  ' 


ii 


86 


Ary  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


c\\.  vri 


Fnday,  2oth.-\\'^  christened  a  large  new  ship  this 
mor„,n,.-the  luul  of  Duffnin.  The  day  seemed  fine, 
but  heavy  showers  ,an)e  <.n.  The  ship  is  on  the.  stocks 
at  present,  and  I  had  great  difficultv  in  breaking  the  bot- 
tle, as  the  rope  was  badly  hung,  and  when  I  aimed  at 
he  narrow  bow  it  would  swing  away.  At  the  third  ef- 
fort, however,  I  succeeded. 

In  the  evening  we  attended  a  concert  given  in  aid  of 
the  widow  of  a  poor  gunner  who  was  killed  by  the  burst- 
"it^  cf  a  gun  the  day  before  we  arrived  here 

Saturday,  2nt.--\S^  drove  down  to  our  new  yacht 
Ihe  (.overnment    has    fitted    up    .   vessel    for   us-the 
nnmi     Most  charming  cabins  are  arranged  for  me,  and 
everythmg  is  perfect  for  yachting-but    I   have  to  com- 
bine  sador  clothes  with  garments  enough  for  two  months 
ot   \  iceregal  ceremonies,  which  would   be  diffuult  even 
on  the  Great  Eastern.     I  fear  Dent  will  go  mad  with  the 
agony  of  crushnig  my  things  into  •'  bunkers."     My  cabin 
has  a  comfortable    bed,  a    hanging-press,  and   a    large 
glass,  ornamented  with  pink  ribbon  and  muslin      I)  Ins 
an  excellent  cabin  off  ft,  and  Dent  another.     The  dm'- 
mg-room   is    paneled   with    chintz  and   light  wood,  and 
l<red  sleeps  on  one  of  the  sofas  there.     We  have  a  nice 
after-cabm  for  a  drawing-room,  and    Lady  Harriet  and 
the  Colonel   have  small   rooms  off    ,t.     To-night   baby 
sleeps  on  board  with  her  two  nurses,  and  we  sail  for  Ta- 
do  u  sac. 

.SV///./,n.,  .W-After  breakfast  we  went  to  our  now 
house  at  Tadousac.  It  is  so  pretty,  with  red  roof,  green 
I'  Hu is,  and  white  walls.  We  have  a  platform,  upon 
wh,(-h  we  sit  and  look  out  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  on 
to  which  all  the  sitting-rooms  open.  The  children  will 
1  think,  be  very  happy  and  comfortable  here  until  our 
return,  for  we  do  not  remain  here  now. 

-^\m„..  .!.. ,    ,^^  .h rived,  so  there  was  no 


.. 


CH.  VII 


JUNE  1873 


TADOL'SAC. 


87 


\  M 


service.  We  sat  on  the  sands  and  paddled  a  little  in  D.'s 
Rice  I-ake  canoe — the  Lady  May.  Tlien  we  returned  to 
our  ship  to  dine  and  sleep. 

Monday,  ^^V.— Such  a  stormy  morning.  IKnt,  my 
precious  maid,  wild  about  her  boxes,  and  j.,nvinji  warninj^ 
f)n  the  spot  ;  myself  m  despair,  for  she  isalreasure.  On 
shore  another  valuable  member  of  our  household  also  in 
a  tantrum  about  something,  ami  when  I  land  I  must  en- 
counter her.  Dent  will,  I  trust,  calm  down,  for  1  really 
can't  bear  the  idea  of  losin^r  her. 

An  address  was  presented  to  His  Ex  by  the  Ta- 
dousacians  on  the  occasion  of  his  becoming  a  house- 
holder here. 

We  gave  a  house-warming,  and  had  the  Curt?,  and  the 
Scpiire's  agent  and  his  daughter,  and  our  captain  to  din- 
ner. We  sat  on  our  balcony  till  nine  o'clock,  and  then 
came  on  board. 

Tuesday,  2.////.— We  started  in  a  boat  directly  after 
breakfast  to  see  the  sahiion-fishery,  and  saw  ten  fish 
caught  in  a  lal)yrinth. 

Il'rd/irsday,  .^.,-///.— The  anniversary  of  our  arrival  in 
Canada.  We  left  Tadousac  during  the  night,  and  had  a 
most  hjvely  day  on  board,  sitting  out  reading;  the 
weather  perfect.  We  reached  the  mouth  of  the  (lod- 
bout  in  the  afternoon,  anil  the  owners,  or,  rather,  the 
hirers,  of  that  river  came  on  board  to  bring  us  two 
salmon,  and  to  make  plans  for  to-morrow.  They  are 
Mr.  (iilmour,  Mr.  Cross,  and  Mr.  Muir. 

T/it/rsdav,  ^^///.-— We  got  up  before  six  o'clock,  and 
started  for  the  shore.  In  the  night  the  wind  iiail  risen 
a  little,  and  we  were  in  the  happy  iiosition  of  being  an- 
chored in  a  swell.  However,  we  got  safely  to  the  river, 
which  was  quite  smooth,  and  the  weather  beautifully 
warm.  We  breakfasted  at  the  wooden  huts,  and  fished 
all  day.     It  was  almost  too  fine  for  the  salmon;  they 


;    I      I 


88 


^tV  CANADIA.V  /OUR:VAL. 


jimiped  and   frisked   about  under 


CH.  VII 


"i>t  rise,  so  that  after 
only  three  fish  to  she 
thro 


our  noses,  and  would 


many  hours' hard  work  th 


w.     Fred 


ere  were 


w,  but  did   no  more  aft 


The  Colonel   retired  to  bed 
but  the  swell  is  better  ! 
J'n'iay,27th.~.\).  and  C 


^•au^rht   one  his  very  f.rst 
^r  this   hopeful   beginning. 


on  his  return  to   the  sh 


in  the 


olonel  Fletch( 


momu  g  ,„  fish  and  I  h'"  """  "^  "^'^^ 

1'.  had  »™e  fu„  with  o„Vl,l  "'"^  '"""  '"""■  '»'<■ 

i"to  the  water  b,u  held  ,?T  V"  ''"'""'"'^  "  '«  f"" 
had  to  array  hi,„,t\  r  ,'"  """  '','"'  '^""'^  ''^  "e 
we  returned  to  „  ,    s    i/  we  f      ","      f"""''''  """  -hen 

1'.  had  to  carry  ,,,Mns, ,„rr::::d';::r-^^'«-. - 

-="";-t::rr'"ntr::^'^'-''--" 
-t;r;-::,;-rf-=a^=; 

feeding  then,.  '""'""^"  «"l>  Pvn.s  then,  baths  and 
__.^  A  ro,„h.|ooki„g  evening,  we  are  to  start  during  the 

splendid  harbor  tins  nSr'nhuf  ■";"""''  ""''^^''^^'^  '"  « 
the  slightest  movei^r  ro"  ",  "'  ^'""  '""^'^'■-  ^-' 
""  the  other  we  see  a  bf  ,'"''  ''  ^"  '^'and,  and 

warns,  thei.  nicdy  b.i't    I        ^'"'7''''  "'  ^"^"-^  ^'^- 

in^^  to  the  ..  Ho  or  be  '"    """'-"  '""'^"^  ^^■'""^- 

Wchadservicei;;r^^^::K[^!-"-'-n'sI^a>^. 

A  priest  visits  these  o ut  "f /i  '""^^  ""'"^  ^^^'^"'•^• 
year,  and  he  happens  t^  .  r'  „ t'^'Tir';"-:  "'"^  ^ 
very  obedient  to  him   -nul  -.r  X  ,  ''  ^"^'''^"'^  ^''^ 

-as  very  picture,  t'  t     se'    tl "mT"  "  ^'"'  ^^'^'>'-     '^ 
^^'"""•"  'I'-^-ssed  in\ru    vTi  T''  '•'  ^'''urch.the 


iP 


CH.  VII 


June  1873 


LVDIAXS  IX  CHAPEL. 


89 


red,  pointed  nightcaps),  their  babies  and  children  with 
them.  We  followed  them  into  the  ehapcl,  and  found  all 
the  squaws  S(|uatting  on  one  side,  and  the  men  on  the 
other.  They  sang  a  Canticle— the  women  one  verse,  the 
men  the  ne.vt ;  the  music  was  a  melancholy  wail,  with 
very  few  notes,  and  the  voices  of  the  singers  were  thin 
and  weak,  but  it  was  interesting  and  curious.  1  sh(niid 
like  to  have  stayed  till  the  end,  but  the  Chief  began 
to  get  us  chairs,  and  to  bring  us  into  notice,  so  we 
left. 

We  walked  across  the  little  peninsula  on  which  the 
chapel  is,  got  into  our  canoes  on  the  river  Mingan,  and 
paddled  up  to  look  at  the  fishing  ground.  It  is  at  the 
foot  of  a  very  pretty  waterfall. 

The  I'riest  and  the  Captain  dined  with  us.  The 
former  is  a  pleasant  man.  He  is  just  going  up  to  the 
Esquimaux.  He  is  very  ill  at  sea,  and  has  before  him  a 
voyage  in  a  small  schooner  which  may  last  three  weeks. 
These  missionary  priests  have  hard  lives.  We  were  told 
that  on  Saturday  he  had  scarcely  had  anything  to  eat, 
the  Indians  having  nothing  to  give  him.  The  huts  here 
are  made  of  poles  very  lightly  covered  with  birch-bark; 
in  each  of  these  tents  seven  or  eight  families  live. 

The  priest  in  his  yearly  visits  to  these  Indians  ar- 
ranges all  of  a  suitable  age  in  couples,  and  marries 
them;  and  there  is  a  total  absence  of  all  love-making. 
They  are  very  moral:  drink  (when  they  can  get  it)  and 
laziness  being  their  sins.  Those  we  have  seen  here  are 
hideous. 

There  is  a  great  meeting  at  a  place  called  Rersimis 
once  a  year,  and  all  the  Indians,  that  can,  go  there;  the 
greater  part  of  the  marriages  take  place  then.  The 
Chief  had  on  a  black  frock-coat  ornamented  with  epau- 
lets. He  called  I).  "  Hrother."  The  same  man  received 
one  of  our  Princes  when   they  came  hef",  and  saluted 


90 

him  in  the 


^/K  CA.VADIAIV  JOURNAL. 


CH    VII 


on  h 


IS 


same 
i)reast 


way,  th<;n  showed  h 


Afomiay,  joth  __\\- 


and  said,  "  I'a 


im  a  medal  he 


mere;   tii  co 


wore 


nnais  ? 


canoes  up  the  M 


t'^'t  up  at   six,  and 


The  three  rods  fish 


'"^^an.     it  is  about 


went   in  our 


ed 


an   hour's  paddit 


one  a  twenty-pound  fish  ;  th 


away,  and  I),  caught  two  sal 


eleven  o'clock,  though   tl 
became 


's  was  all  th 


nion. 


very  hot  at  this  t 


lere  were  about  t 
me,  and  we  went 


e  success  before 


en   rises.     Jt 


^<'  wait  for  the  cool  of  tl  e  hv       n  ' '''"'  T  '""■  ^^'"'^ 
and  in  getfn<.  nito  thl  ^  ^ "  ""  ^^^""tleme.,  bathed, 

sv,iuM^  Muo  the  canoe  to  vo  to  \h,.  k-h  . 

«-"=  u,«e,,  and  wc.  all  thdr  clones  "•"'""^.'i"''™ 

India:  ::::j":;ru':;;v"  '''^"' "'"'"« "«»"••  «■"-  a„ 

We  returned  i„,„,edia.ely      We     "^ /"""•■''  ""'"■■'^■"• 

l.ad  been  ea  "  'Z^  '"l""'  '">'  "  "''='^'= '"  '"-"I  he 
of  the  water  wh„  h     „  i  '  *?;;    ""  "'"  '"'""  "'  '""  "'•-"= 

.>.e  water  is  ve^y  dee""  lt:::V;;:.;',r  ""l'"''  '"' 
stantly  slipped  He  „„  ,  V  '  °  "■'"'•  a"'l  "■- 
q«i.o.veil   I  e   ha.i  on'      „T     "         "^  '",  '''"  ""  »  -- 

c-ived  after  ,n„,.  ..uT'i,;";: ;  rrr'ir ,,  '''rr?"" 

'I'e  poor  dead  hod'v  „  '  tlfl,  r„    "^  "'  "',''"''  ''"<=" 
".'h.  in  t,,e  water,  tl,eL:;Lr,„;i:S-^''-''-P- 

-«>k  P  a.e-  iC'nll  '"","';'"'='<  '"-'lay  the  ftuteral 
possible  nta'r^'rr  ,";.  n  n^ln  i",^™:  "-\»""  "ery 
Ihe  erew  attended   and    .'; j"  'V    '  ■"  "'"'"'"■     '^" 


u: ! 


CH    VII 


JULY  1873 


FISHIXG. 


91 


Wednesday,  2d.—t\\.  three  o'clock  to-day  we  started 
to  go  up  the  river. 

The  fishermen  are  not  very  fortunate;  the  salmon 
are  not  rising,  and  the  greater  part  of  those  that  have 
been  landed  have  been  hooked  by  the  tail  or  in  the 
back.  Fred  caught  five;  one  weighed  23' Jbs.,  ami  it 
was  taken  in  a  curious  way  :  the  hook  never  touched  it, 
but  it  was  caught  in  a  ncxjse  round  the  tail.  Colonel 
Fletcher  got  two,  but  1).  was  very  unlucky. 

The  morning  was  extremely  foggy,  but  the  afternoon 
was  fine,  and  we  dined  out  on  the  rocks,  and  came  on 
board  to  a  late  tea. 

Thursday,  jd. — The  fishermen  again  left  in  the  after- 
noon and  went  to  sleep  up  at  the  Waterfall.  The  night 
was  wet,  and  there  was  thunder  and  lightning. 

Friday,  4th. — Lady  Harriet  and  I  went  up  the  river 
after  lunch  with  the  Captain,  who  is  to  have  some  fish- 
ing. The  salmon  will  not  rise,  and  it  was  in  vain  that 
everybody  tried  every  dodge  to  entice  them;  they  will 
not  be  caught.  We  dined  on  the  rocks,  and  left  our 
gentlemen  in  their  tents  for  another  day,  coming  back 
again  with  the  Captain,  who  was,  I  fear,  much  disap- 
pointed with  his  want  of  success.  We  reached  the  ship 
in  such  a  fog  ! 

Saturday,  ^t/i.—Wo.  spent  a  quiet  day  on  board,  and 
only  went  ashore  for  half  an  hour,  to  visit  Mrs.  Scott, 
the  wife  of  the  Hudson's  Ikiy  Agent.  She  is  a  French- 
Canadian,  and  must  live  a  lonely  life  here.  We  also 
went  to  look  at  the  grave  of  our  poor  man.  The  gen- 
tlemen returned  in  the  evening,  and  we  had  another  wet 
night.  They  had  had  very  bad  sport.  It  turns  out  that 
the  foot  of  a  waterfall  is  an  impossible  place  to  fish  in. 
The  salmon  do  not  rise  at  all,  but  a  great  many  get  foul- 
hooked;  this  accounts  for  our  ill-success. 

Sunday,  dif'i. — We  had  intended   leaving  the  Mingan 


ga 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


cir.  VII 

t"-|'ay.  huf  it  is  too  stormy.  VVe  had  prayers  on  bonrd 
«...  th<n  went  for  a  walk  on  th.  island,  L\  Zv.rt 
foss.U,  m\  saw  a  live  seal,  a  flock  of  .  U,  duck  ad 
three  tame  «oa<A.  '       " 

^^C'"'  ^"''T"'"  '"-^'-""'t  "e  fished  for  ,r„,„      I 

afternoon  was  lovely,  and  we  spenf  it  In      a"     ind  of 
^7.  K  :r".r"""  "'""'^-^-es  nfe  on   Llr        n  , 

""      rdes,    opera-glasses,    telescopes-firt-solash  ■    ,H 
right!  nobody  hurt;  seal  looks  up  again      ,    o     v, 
>er  of  sea-birds  to  starboard ;  fire  a'ga  >     4  .5     ^wh  le" 
.e  appears    disappears,  .urns  t,p  ''again  \o\  n'eaH^  aj 

^::;,o?p-;;--.-;-o:.-a„di 

tame  partridge;  fetch  water  for  her  cTt^h^ief       , 

.t^-^rtrrii^^roh-'-r-""- 

ti.eir  box  u  side  d  I '  _„?\tv"::r':' "'"™ 

"Shake  .he,n,"..p„,  i„  your  hand'^.  T  etc     .' ."';'■ 
cost,  ,n  sight  ■■ ;  every  one  rushes  ,0  loSk  it  ,       A  f 
ow  str  p  of  land,  where  we  are  g,ad  ,0  te"h ere  t     ,  ,t 

J    •  ivim.ei.     0.50  :  A  shower.     7.?o  •  A  hpintif,,! 
set       -7  ir^  •    A\'„  .  /-J"-  rt  ueaiituul  sun- 

be  Clin,       «  ?:  ?     ^'""■'^''  """  '"  ''-"^  ''-^'S  i'  will 

^/-^</.J',  aw.     .,  new  page  in  our  Canadian  history 


^ 

^ 


err.  VII 


jL'LY  1873 


GASPE. 


93 


— (iaspc.  This  morning  I  came  on  deck,  and  found 
that  we  were  steaming  ujia  lovely  lough  into  a  splindid 
harbor.  A  sunny  landscape:  hills,  and  white  houses, 
and  red  roofs  dotted  about ;  sufficient  houses  to  make 
it  very  gay,  and  not  enough  to  make  a  town  of  it. 
"Such  z  place  for  .l  sailing-boat,"  I),  thinks,  and  is  de- 
lighted with  it. 

A  gentlenian  comes  on  board,  and  we  make  arrange- 
ments for  the  morrow.  We  get  our  mail,  and  write  our 
leUers. 

In  the  afternoon  a  dej^utation  appears,  and  reads  an 
adilress,  to  which  His  E.\.  replies  in  "  suitable  terms." 
The  deputation  consists  of  the  Mayor,  the  Custom 
House  Officers,  the  Doctor,  and  other  local  dignitaries. 
They  ask  if  we  will  have  a  drive,  and  promise  to  have 
carriages  ready  for  us  when  we  like.  So  at  four  o'clock 
we  go  ashore.  On  the  landing-place  we  are  met  by 
our  friends,  a:id  I  find  that  Oaspe  driving  is  all  to  be 
done  ti'te-h-tctc.  The  Mayor  takes  His  Ex.  in  a  gig,  I 
follow  with  a  millowner  in  the  next.  Number  Three 
contains  the  Colonel  and  Mr.  Eden  (of  whom  more  here- 
after) ;  Number  Four,  Lady  Harriet  and  the  Doctor ;  Fred 
closes  the  procession  with — I  don't  know  who ;  but  he 
must  have  been  the  fifth  in  order  of  precedence  at 
(iaspe.  It  was  amusing,  starting  off  in  this  way,  and 
we  took  a  pretty  drive  for  nearly  two  hours,  and  made 
ourselves  as  agreeable  as  possible  to  our  several  com- 
panions. It  was  rather  fun,  in  the  evening,  comparing 
Lotes  as  to  the  various  items  of  news,  and  the  different 
v, zillions  we  had  gleaned  from  our  drivers.  One  con- 
sidered Gaspe  the  rising^  place  in  the  universe,  another 
viewed  it  gloomily,  etc. 

Mr.  Kidd  and  Mr.  Campbell  (belonging  to  the  Gov- 
ernor-Oeneral's  office)  dined  with  us,  and  we  saw  some 
fireworks  and  a  bonfire  in  our  honor  on  shore. 


^^ 


94 


My  CAXADIA.V  JOURNAL. 


<  n.  vu 


//V,/..,>,/,,,.,^//,_A  very^Mcat  day.      Up  ,,1   siv    ,„.. 

J,^'>  ashore:  Imts  and    \va'^^:,^^  arc   ,nck.-r    ..„ 
.,,>,!  1  .  ^  i''iLk.c(l  into  canot's 

■HHl    «o    ,|ow„    ,|K.    bay.wlulc    uc   drive    t„    „KTt   tlu... 
Uearc,nour«„.sa,an,;   but  ours  ,s  a  double  one         1 

wcaredrn-enbytlu.Mr.Kdenc.fwl,on.Ispok      X: 

■s  the.,  oldest  ududmant/-  a  Custom]  louse  oft,       ■ 
an  1   a  n,„,,        ,^,„„^^  ^,^,.^,^_^       He  assures  us  we  saU 

-  U:hhfy  salmon,  and  veus  everytlun,   ,n   the  ..u^,- 
'/'■  rosiest  b,,t.      U-c  do  have  a  most   lovely  dnve      T 

-untry.sl,kethcH,,hlands,andweseew,ldh,lls     , 
;;ne  su  e.  an.)  (Jaspe   Ray  on   the  other.      The  r  a, 

tin-ou«h  trees,  and  ,t  would  l.c  unpossible  anyul L  t 
M-c  a  more  beautiful  ..unury.  The  dav  is  vev  fn  •  w 
^";- very  fast,  and  ,t  is  most  pleasant."    In  .       ,        ', 

'^  '-'f  we  meet  the  canoes  .H.  the  I )artmouthK, V 
-become  most  pu:turescp.e!     Ima.n.e  s.x   biM -In  k 

-'-HM^rocession;  in  each  two  nu.n  stand  ^r^^^^^ 
"'  '  1""R  poles  m  the.r  hands,  wlule  tw<.  pa.ssen ,1":  i\' 
'"     ...  center  of  the  boat.     U'e  have  three  hour^'  o  m.  ' 

"■  »"rk,  a„,,y,  l,„il.ls  l,i„,sdf  .-,  nro,,l„„..  U^  1    " 

".r     U.I,;,vcs„Mp  ,„„l  nsl,,a,Kl  ,.„/„>..  ami  ,„„i,l    ! 

;:::;f '"■■".■■■■""« >--•.■•  "v„av.',  '  '•; 

"     "^'.         lif  Knilkmni    vvl,i|,    i|„.   |,„„l,  a,ul  ,  „,  I, 
"         ■     '^'^'=U"'tvM;urtains  have  been  put    up, 


<  II.  vn 


'H.- 


The 


'J 
< 

r. 


0 

s 


JULY  1873 


THE   DARTMOUTH  KIVIiR. 


95 


but  as  I  endeavor  to  crawl  iiiulcr  them  the  whole  erec- 
tion tumbles  down,  and  it  is  some  time  before  I  am 
safe  inside. 

Thursday,  /oZ/i.—Wc  are  all  up  early,  and  breakfast 
at  five,  jfet  into  our  canoes,  and  proceed  lii).;her  up  the 
river.  The  pools  we  reach  to-day  are  very  lovely,  and 
we  have  a  very  pleasant  day  at  them.  I  catch  a  number 
of  trout,  so  do  I'red  and  Lady  Harriet;  and  Fred  ^ot  a 
salmon—the  only  one.  We  stop|)ed  fishinj^^  at  eleven; 
the  men  made  a  bower  of  branches  ami  birch-bark,  and 
we  sat  and  read  and  ate  until  four,  when  we  fished  a^Min. 
The  last  pool  was  .so  pretty— or,  rather,  fine.  'I'here 
wtrv,  jrreat  cliffs  on  either  side,  anil  in  front  a  waterfall 
with  a  wail  of  rock  and  tries  behind  it,  the  further 
course  of  the  river  being  ijuite  hiikkii  from  view.  At 
ciKdit  o'clock  we  left,  and  i)a(l(lled  down  to  our  camj), 
passini;  throui,di  some  great  rapids.  The  worst  are 
called  the  "  Lady's  Steps."     Tea  and  bed  followed. 

Friday,  nth. — Again  wi'  breakfast  at  five,  and  begin 
our  return  journey  in  exactly  the  .same  way  as  we  came. 
Finding  an  invitation  from  an  .American  gentleman  to 
go  up  his  river,  the  St.  John,  and  to  stay  with  him,  we 
accept;  so  we  go  on  board  the  Dniid,  wash  and  dress 
better  than  is  possible  in  a  tent,  ami  in  two  iiours  begin 
a  new  adventure. 

We  drive  for  half  an  hour,  cro,ss  a  stream  in  a  Iioat, 
walk  a  little  way,  and  then  meet  si.\  saddle-horses. 
These  we  mount,  and  ride  for  three  hours  through  the 
forest;  five  miles  of  the  way  being  through  a  burned 
wood.  The  tall,  charred  trunks  are  all  that  remain  of 
the  old  forest,  but  a  beautiful  fresh  underwood  has 
grown  up  everywhere.  This  ride  brings  us  to  Mr.  Cur- 
tis's  "shanty  "  on  the  St.  John. 

I  conUI  nf)t  get  on  witli  iiim  at  fir?;!.  !)ut  !  wH-ii  {:\\\\\d, 
that  he  was  very  nice,  and  that  it  was  only  preoccupa- 


96 


AfV  CANADIAN  JOUK'KAl.. 


CII.  VII 


tioM  that  was  the  matter  witli  1 


liin—  ami  no  wonder,  for 


Course,  has 


It  seems  that  we  ouylit  to  have  l)r..iijri,t  l,lankets  with 

us,  and  the  poor  man  is  in  despair,  as  he,  of 

a  very  limited  supply  in  the  backwoods.     \\ 

we  like  doin;^r  without  blankets,  and  he  is  ha 

was  time  for  a  little  fishing,  ami  i'red  cauul 

I"idy  Harriet  and  I  si 


e  swear  that 
Pl"y.    'I'here 
U'lt  a  salmon. 


iM-ed,  side  l)y  side  in  the  I 
dinin^r.ro,„„,  partly  covered  m  witl 
umler  which  we  dine. 


cep  m  a  tent;   I).,  the  Colonel,  and 


louse.      Off  tlu'ir   brdri 


Mim 


1  mosquito-curtains, 


Thesand-llies  are  dreadful  lure,  but 


them  with  smoky  fires  (called  "smiu' 


we  try  to  defy 


Aft 
wood 


j4es  ")  and  curtains. 


er  dinner  we  sit  out  of  doors  before  a  pile  of  bl 


izinij: 


\'<>u  remember  that  I  t(jld  you  that 


ant  of  ours  was  drowned  at  the  M 


a  poor  man-serv- 
iuj,Mn.     As  we  knew 


c  were  unable  to  co 


mmuni- 


nothinjr  about   his  people,  w 

(■ate  the  news  of  his  death  to  them,  so  1).  ordered  any 
letters  that  mi^ht  arrive  for  him  to  l)e  brouj^riu  to  him- 
self.    The  first  of  these— which  we  I 


was  from  a  servant-jjfirl   he 


lave  just  received- 


was  attached  to  at  Ott 


iwa. 


:iiui  was  dated  exactly  seven  days  after  the  dav  ol  th. 
JKTident.  In  it  she  said,  "  I  have  !)een  in  mv  new  place 
a  week,  and  I  like  it  very  much,  but  I  had  such  a  dread- 
ful dream  on  the  day  of  my  arrival.     I  dreamed  that  you 

Jftther,  and  that  No- 
te  spot 
111  uninhabited  rej^ion 
miles  distant 
IS  or  posts,  it  was 
e  news  of  her 


and  Nowell  were  upset  in  a  boat  toj,a-th 

well  was  saved,  but  you  were  drowned."     As  ll 

where  the  accident  occurred  is  in 


on  the  coast  of   Labrador,  more  than  500 
from  Ottawa,  without  either  tcleKiapl 
impossible  that  she  should  have  had  th 
lover's  death  when  this  letter  was  written 


Satuiihiy,  /.V/;.-After  breakfast  tl 


into  canoes,  and  were  four  hour 


lis  morninjj  we  jrot 


liu 


s  K"iiiK'  lip  the  river 


wever,  we  siopi)ecl  five  times  on  our  way  tu  fish,  and 


CIl.  VII 

iiidcr,  f(ir 
kcls  witli 
iiirsc,  lias 
wear  that 
y.  'I'hcTc 
I  salmon, 
loiicl,  and 
room  '.  a 
-ciiitains, 

y  to  defy 
curtains, 
f  blazing 

lan-scrv- 
rtt'  knew 
ommiini- 
cred  any 
t  to  liim- 
(fivcd — 

Ottawa, 
y  (»1  the 
.'w  plaju 
a  dii'ad- 
lliat  you 
hat  No- 
he  spot 
1  rej^'ion 

distant 
S  it  was 
>  of  her 

:  Wf  got 

L'  river; 
ish,  and 


JILV  1873 


/'J:A'CE. 


97 


so  the  time  di.l  not  appoar  lon^;.     We  onlv  rau,i,dit  trout 
thus  far;  hut  we  have  reached  "  Keliv's   I'.,ol."  and  are 
told  that  here  salmon  will  surely  come.      I).  ,  atches  one 
(nS  lbs.)  almost  immediately.      Mr.  Curiis  hooks  one  for 
me,  and  hands  me  the  rod,  but  in  so  doinjr  off  it  eomes  ; 
then  he  hooks  am)ther,  (   take  the  md  a-ain,  and  <-njoy 
myself  immensely  while    I    play  the  fi.h.     1  landed  him', 
and  ffreat  was  my  joy  and  pride.     Colonel  Fletcher  and' 
Lady  Harriet  each  play  one.  but  she  loses  hers.     Then 
we  were  carried  swiftly  down  the  rapids  home.      Dinner 
-fireside-bed!     Alas!  be.I  is  not  the  end.     There  was 
frost   to-ni-ht.  and   the  limited   snpplv  of  blankets  was 
terrd)le.     I  woke  at  one,  very  cold,  «:ot  up,  and  dressed 
in  all  my  clothes,  and  lay  down  ajjain  ;  but  not  to  sleep 
I  shivered  till   four,  ami   at   this  early  hour  on   Sunday 
morning  nii.i,dit  have  been  found  sittinK'  at  a  ^^reat  wood 
fire  'Hit  of  doors:  a  tent  on   my  ri.i,dit.  where  sleeps  my 
friend;  behind  me  a  wooden  house,  where  sleep  my  bus- 
band,  brother,  and  the  Colonel;  t,,  the   left  a  .secti.m  of 
a  tent,  jutting  out  of  which  may   be  seen   the   feet  of 
sleeping  men;  one-who  is  awake-attends  to  mv  fire- 
a  dog  lies  by,  the  river  rolls  along  in  the  backgn.und! 
In  this  f.icture  I  may  be  represented  reading  a  novel  • 
the  primeval   forest  extends  itsell   on   every  side  ui  nie' 
Tiic  rest  of  the  world  got  up  to  breakfast  at  seven,  and 
we  rcHJe  and  drove  home  to  our  ship  .again.     Mr   Curtis 
"of  Moston"  was  most  kind  to  us  ar^I  very  pleas.int, 

Momun,  /^///._We  starteil  in  the  night,  and  found 
ourselves  next  morning  off  I'erc.:..  The  view  from  our 
ship  is  (pute  lovely.  There  is  the  great,  precipitous  ro,  k 
standing  out  by  itself,  with  a  natural  arch  through  it, 
which  gives  the  name  to  the  place;  then,  on  the  main- 
land,  the  red  cliffs  rise  up  above  the  sea,  crowned  with, 
green  shrubs,  and  the  plateau  (mi  which  fiie  little  town 
IS  built  slopes  down  tu  the,  water,  and  ends  in  anotiier 


" ' 


98 


A/V  CAXADIAX  JOUKXAL. 


CIt.  VII 


\\ 


1] 


fi:' 


{i;rorit  rliff.  The  sun  shines,  and  everything  is  (lclij,ditfiil, 
("oloncl  Flelciier  and  D.  botli  made  skcltlies;  when  they 
had  finished  we  steamed  round  the  ruck,  and  got  into  a 
boat  to  row  ashore. 

A  salute  was  fired  (by  the  blacksmith),  and  all  the 
fishint;;  population  of  I'erce,  headed  by  tiieir  Mayor, 
Manager,  and  the  SheriU",  met  us,  and  uf  course  read  au 
atldress. 

I'erce  i  .  a  most  important  fishing-station.  It  is  prin- 
cipallv  owned  by  Jersey  people  who  have  never  been  to 
it,  and  their  rejjresentative  here  is  Mr.  Orange.  In  addi- 
tion to  its  beautiful  scenery  it  has  the  merit  of  spotless 
puritv  (in  spile  of  a  strong  smell  of  lisb  ])ervading  the 
atinospiiere).  The  houses  and  stores  are  all  of  the  fresh- 
est while,  with  red  window-saslies  and  doors  ;  the  streets 
are  of  gravel.  \N'hen  His  lv\.  had  replied  to  the  aildress, 
we  went  through  the  places  where  the  fish  is  salted, 
dried,  etc. 

The  operation  is  as  follows  :  On  a  table  on  the  beach 
the  cod  is  beheaded,  cut  open,  and  spread  Hat.  He  is 
then  brouglil  into  a  large,  scpiare  room,  laid  upon  the 
door,  and  sailed;  above  him,  below  him,  and  around 
him,  are  his  fellow-coils.  After  remaining  in  this  retreat 
for  three  or  four  days,  he  is  imt  into  a  great  tub  and 
■washed.  From  this  he  gets  into  a  barrow,  and  is  wheeled 
out  of  doors  to  a  long  bed  of  dried  fir-boughs,  upon 
which  he  n'|)oscs  with  his  neighbors  and  gets  dried.  He 
ought  to  lie  there  for  six  days,  and  the  I'erce  fishermen 
have  to  watch  the  clouds  all  that  time,  and  rush  to  lift 
Iiim  into  a  shed  should  it  threaten  to  rain.  A  shower 
would  spoil  him.  From  this  free-and-easy  stage  he  la 
removed,  and  stacked  on  the  gravel,  and  covered  over 
with  birch-iiark  and  heavy  stones;  this  is  his  final  trial, 
and  he  is  now  fit  to  fulfill  the  object  of  his  existence,  and 
tu  be  eaten. 


if 


cii.  vir 


JlI.Y  1873 


DALllOUSIE. 


99 


I  he  stacks  are  really  works  of  art-thov  are  so  neat 
and  trim.  We  also  inspoctfd  the  stores  and  shops  u{  tin- 
town.  We  were  told  there  was  a  splenditi  view  from  the 
top  ot  a  mountain  or  lii^rh  cliff  above  tht-  town,  and  we 
started  to  drive  there.  I  only  j,^ot  to  the  bottom  of  the 
worst  chml,  in  the  jrik'  with  the  Mayor  and  Mayoress 
but  the  j;entlemen  went  to  the  top.  In  the  afternoon 
we  continued  our  journey  up  the  I!ay  of  Chaleur  to 
Paspediac,  off  which  little  town  we  anchored  at  ten 
o'clock. 

ruesday,  /^t;,.—  \),  went  asliore  at  7  a.  m.  to  look  at 
this  place,  and  fo.uui  a  sleepy  .\;rent,  wiio  could  not  rise 
to  the  magnitude  of  the  occasion,  or  comprehend  that  it 
was  the  Ciovernor-General  who  represented  the  "early 
bird." 

I'aspediac  is  another  part  of  the  Jersey  fishin^^-busi- 
ness.  Here  ships  are  built,  and  in  them  the  dried  cod 
is  sent  off  to  its  various  destinations. 

We  were  detained  an  hour  by  our  engine,  which  had 
Rot  out  of  order,  and  so  did  not  reach  Dalhousie  till 
five  o'clock.  The  scenery  towards  the  end  of  the  l!ay 
was  lovely,  and  the  .surroundings  of  this  villa.t,re  reminded 
us  of  Scotland.  We  had  not  seen  such  high  hills  for  a 
long  time. 

The  courageous  people  of  Dalhousie  fired  off  some 
old  guns  which  had  been  found  at  the  bottom  (.f  the 
river,  and  it  is  a  mercy  no  accident  occurred. 

The  principal  inhabitants  met  us  on  the  wharf,  hut 
His  E.v's  hand  was. first  shaken  by  a  bhu  k  man,  who 
appears  to  be  a  pet  jester  of  the  neighlu.rhood.  Later, 
this  gentleman  perceived  he  had  forgotten  me,  and 
made  a  dive  through  the  crowd  to  shake  hands  with 
me.  My  gravity  was  rather  upset  by  this  une.vpected 
Weh'ome. 

We  walked  to  the  Court  House,  and  had  an  address 


W' 


lOO 


AfV  CAXADIAA'  JOURNAL. 


^n.  VII 


presented  ;  then  I),  took  a  drive,  and  I  went  up  to  the 
house  of  a  senator — Mr.  Hamilton.  We  got  on  board 
aj(ain  in  time  for  dinner,  and  continued  our  journey  in 
the  ni;^lit. 

Wcdnrsthiy,  i6th. — We  have  had  a  roujj;h  twenty-four 
hours,  and  could  not  enjoy  the  deck  until  we  were  some 
way  up  the  Miramichi  river.  The  country  round  here  is 
flat  and  uninterestinjr.  We  reached  Chatham  in  the 
afternoon,  but  a  sad  accident  occurred  in  firing  the 
salute. 

An  address  was  read,  and  lunch  prepared  at  the  house 
of  the  Member,  Mr.  Muirhead,  to  which  we  had  to  pass 
uniler  an  arch  specially  erected  in  our  honor.  We  re- 
turned in  the  evening  to  attend  a  concert  given  by  the 
convent-school. 

T/tursJav,  i///i.~\Ve  invited  Mr.,  Mrs.,  and  Miss 
Muirhead,  and  two  other  gentlemen,  to  breakfast  on 
board,  and  to  go  with  us  to  Newcastle,  a  town  a  short 
way  from  C^hatham. 

There  was  an  address,  and  a  drive  to  a  new  bridge 
which  is  being  built  over  the  river,  and  then  we  set  sail 
—or,  rather,  "got  under  steam  "—on  our  way  to  Prince 
Edward's  Island,  where  I  hope  to  receive  letters. 


en.  VII 


CHAPTER   Vlir. 

THE    MARITIME    I'RO VIN'CES, 

_  FnWay,  July  /cf///._This  nicnnns  we  f.unid  ourselves 
|n  sight  of  Prince  Edward's  Island;  and  very  pretty  it 
looked  in  the  sunshine.  The  cliffs  are  low,  but  tiiey 
show  a  red  line  above  the  water,  crowned  with  green 
and  the  whole  country  is  much  more  cultivated  and 
m(,re  park-like  than  anything  we  have  as  yet  seen  in 
Canada. 

We  anchored  at  ten,  and  got  some  letters  from  Ta- 
dousac,  with  good  accounts  of  the  children ;  and  at 
twelve  we  landed  at  Charlotte  Town. 

There  was  a  crowd,  and  a  very  pretty  arch,  one  of 
the  mottoes  on  it  being  "  Long  courted,  won  at  last  " 
Ml  allusion  to  the  island  having  just  joined  the  Do- 
minion. 

We  are  staying  at  Government  House  with  Mr  *  and 
Mrs.  Robinson.     They  took  us  a  drive  through  red  lanes 
farms,  trees,  and   ferns-country  sights  which  are  quite 
delightful    to    us,  who   of   late   have   only   seen    forest 
scenery. 

_  S\Uurday,  r^//r-We  walked  through  the  town,  and 
tn  the  afternoon  had  a  reception,  and  in  the  evening  a 
dinner-party.  ^ 

Mo.Juy,  2rsr-ln  the  morning  we  started  to  take  the 
first  trip  on  the  finst  railway  made  in  the  island.     About 


■  Sir  William  Robinson,  Governor  of  Trinida.I,  i8qi. 


I 


illl 


i  ■'  -      } 


102 


Afy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  VIII 


thirty  pc()])le  came  with  us,  and  at  a  distant  station  we 
wore  met  l)y  carriajres,  in  which  we  drove  to  the  sea- 
shore, wiiere  we  had  lunch.  Then  we  returned  home  by 
the  same  route,  and  had  a  little  rest  before  we  dressed 
for  a  ball  at  (iovernnient  House. 

Tiu-Si/ay,  22d.~\\Ki  drove  out  with  Mr.  and  Afrs.  Rob- 
inson to  do  some  shoppinjr,  to  look  at  a  fine  view  of  the 
town,  and  to  be  i)hotographed  under  the  triumphal  arch. 
Then  we  went  off  to  the  DruiJ,  and  H.  M.  S.  Spartan 
manned  yards  as  we  passed.  There  was  a  regatta  in  the 
harbor,  for  which  1).  had  given  prizes,  and  we  had  in- 
vited forty  people  to  lunch  with  us  on  board  and  to  see 
the  races  from  our  ship.  We  had  a  very  pleasant  after- 
noon, and  as  soon  as  the  sports  were  over  we  went 
ashore  to  give  away  the  prizes.  The  day  was  a  i)erfect 
summer  day. 

We  dined  quietly  at  Government  House,  and  dressed 
for  the  ball  after  dinner.  This  ball  was  part  of  the 
reception  which  the  local  Parliament  had  resolved  to 
give  the  Ciovernor-deneral. 

It  was  in  the  Parliament  Buildings,  and  the  Senate 
Chamber  was  beautifully  arranged  for  it.  From  the 
ceiling  hung  a  thing  like  a  chandelier,  made  of  roses 
and  moss,  which  spread  out  into  single  ropes  of  flowers, 
attached  to  the  gallery  all  round  the  room,  forming  a 
light  canopy  of  flowers  above  us ;  then  there  were  flags 
and  wreaths  on  the  walls;  so  that  nothing  could  have 
been  prettier.  Besides  a  dressing-room,  a  little  resting- 
place  was  provided  for  me,  in  which  there  was  a  large 
supply  of  refreshment  ! 

The  supper-room  was  decorated  with  green,  and  with 
a  large  painting  of  D.'s  arms,  surrounded  by  all  the 
Canadian  flags,  that  of  Newfoundland  being  still  rolled 
up  (it  has  not  joined  the  ITnion).  'J"he  sujiper  was  a  .sort  of 
picnic,  being  sent  by  dillerent  people,  and  was  very  good. 


I 


ft  !, 


CJI.   VIII 


Ji  i.v  1873 


PICTOU  COAL-MINES. 


103 


I 


A  pretty  girl  with  whom  Fred  danced  said  tn  him: 
"  I  noticed  tliat  you  danced  with  all  the  phiincst  ^'iris 
and  tiie  worst  dancers,  at  Government  Honse  on  Mon- 
day, and  I  said  to  myself,  '  Well,  really,  I  don't  think 
.\[r.  Hamilton  is  such  a  swell  that  he  need  dance  with  all 
the  i)lain  jjirls  and  the  bad  dancers,'  " — alludinj,^  of 
course,  to  the  (lovernor-deneral's  partners  hem;;  chosen 
for  him.  Fred  immediately  asked  her  for  a  second 
waltz.  When  we  left  Me  were  accompanied  by  a  forch- 
lij^jht  procession  to  the  pier;  there  we  j;ot  into  our  b-at, 
and  went  on  board  the  DniiJ.  All  the  lailies,  in  th.  ir 
ball-dre..ses,  came  out  on  the  balcony  of  the  hcnise  tcj  .see 
us  off;  and  the  arches  were  illuminated. 

Thursday,  24th.— \w  the  morninL,^  we  rea<he(l  I'ictou. 
I  must  mention  here  that  the  climate  of  I'rince  VA- 
ward's  Island  was  very  much  more  like  Kn},dand  than 
that  of  our  part  of  Canada,  and  both  Lady  Harriet  and 
I  felt  the  change.  She  got  hay-fever  and  asthma,  and 
is  in  bed,  and  I  have  a  cold  ;  however,  I  did  not  like  to 
miss  .seeing  the  coal-mines  of  the  Dominion,  so  I  went 
with  D.  to  insi)ect  them.  I  saw  all  the  above-ground 
part:  the  .■ngines,  the  ventilators,  etc.  The  principal 
ventilr.tor  is  called  the"  Lady  Dufferni,"  and  there  are 
two  engines  which  go  by  the  name  of  the  "  Lord  Duf- 
ferin  "  and  the  "  Lady  Victoria  "  I),  went  down  the 
mine  with  Fred  and  Colonel  Fletcher.  The  shaft  was 
1,000  feet,  and  it  took  them  just  fifty-four  seconds  to 
get  to  the  bottom  in  a  lift,  'i'hey  stayed  down  there  an 
hour  and  a  half,  while  F  talked  to  the  managers  at  the  top. 
We  got  back  to  the  Druid  in  time  for  dinner.  All 
night  there  was  a  fearful  noise  gt»ing  on — "coaling," 
just  over  our  heads. 

Friday,  ;?j-///.— Sailing  through  the  Cut  of  Canso, 
with  the  land  close  to  us  on  each  side,  on  our  wav  to 
Louisburg.  where  wc  anchor  in  the  morning. 


iiJ 


104 


A/r  CAA'.iP/AX  JOURXAL. 


cii.  viir 


Satut\ia\\  2<^///.— There  is  a  foj-;  outside  the  harl) 


or,  so 


we  are  cauj^ht  here,  but  have  had 


1  h)()ketl  ill  a  book  of 


;i  most  pleasant  day. 


that  Loiiisburjf,  in  addition  to  its  hist 
town  with  broad  streets  and  st 


universal  knowlcdj;e,  and  read 


ality,  a  small  villajje, 


isti 


orical  mterest,  is  a 


one  houses;  it  is,  in  re- 
)f  a  fe\ 


attered  wooden 

cottages.     We    landed    at    one  of  these,  borrowed   two 

•    gigs,  and  set  off  to  drive  twenty-five  miles  to  the  capital 

of  Cape  Ureton,  Sydney  by  name.     1).   drove  me,  and 

Fred  the  Colonel;  Lady  Harriet  remained  on  board. 

We  drove  through  i>retty  woods,  occasionally  getting 
a  glimjjse  of  one  of  the  several  arms  of  the  sea  which  cut 
Cape  Breton  in  so  many  places,  sat  i)y  the  roadside  to 
lunch,  and  reached  Sydney  in  the  afternoon. 

It  is  situated  on  a  l)eautiful  harbor,  and  we  found 
several  large  steamers  there;  the  biggest  was  the  7//'- 
bania,  which  has  just  been  laying  the  Atlantic  cable,  in 
comi^any  with  the  Gifat  Eastern.  We  went  on  board 
her,  and  saw  the  machinery,  and  the  tanks  which  held 
the  cable.  We  had  asked  to  see  the  mayor  of  the  town, 
and  when  a  gentleman  jumped  out  of  a  carriage  and  ac- 
costed us,  we  took  it  for  granted  that  this  was  he,  and 
accepted  his  offer  of  a  pair  of  fresh  horses  and  a  cup  of 
tea.  We  went  to  his  very  pretty  house,  where  his  Eng- 
lish wife  received  us  graciously ;  and  then  D.  heard  that 
a  deputation  was  waiting  for  him  at  the  hotel.  There 
he  found  tiie  real  Simon  Pure,  and  sjjcnt  an  extra  hour 
with  him  and  the  other  magnates  of  the  place;  so  that 
we  left  very  late,  and  had  a  dark  drive  back  through  the 
woods. 

The  weather  was  cpiite  lovely,  and  the  trip  extremely 
pleasant.  At  four  o'clock  we  bought  a  Sydney  paper,  in 
wiiich  we  fountl  our  arrival  announced.  Very  sharp  of 
the  Sydney  Press. 

Lcuisburs :  Sunday,  2yih.-~\\ii  arc  detained  here  by 


I 


cii.  viir 


JULY  1873 


HALIFAX,   XOVA    SCOTIA. 


105 


i 


the  fog.  After  church  we  went  to  look  at  the  old  forts; 
there  are  scarcely  any  stone  remains,  t)ut  Colonel  Fletch- 
er's military  eye  easily  discovered  the  form  and  plan  of 
the  fortifications  in  the  grass. 

Monday,  ^<5V//,— We  started  this  morning,  and  got  on 
a  good  way  before  the  fog  came  down  upon  us  again. 
Fog — rain — Atlantic  swell ! 

Tuesday,  2j;///.— Still  very  foggy.  We  luid  great 
doubts  as  to  whether  we  should  get  into  Halifax  at  all, 
and  stories  of  ships  being  kept  out  for  three  weeks  were 
rife.  However,  with  great  care,  we  poked  our  nose  in 
just  at  the  right  place,  and  at  two  o'clock  appeared  in 
the  harbor,  to  everybody's  astonishment. 

It  was  so  wet  we  did  not  go  ashore,  and  put  off  our 
landing  till  ne.\t  morning.  The  Lieutenant-Governor 
and  Mrs.  Archibald  came  to  see  us,  and  arrangements  for 
endless  gayeties  were  made. 

Wednesday,  jot/i.~At  twelve  o'clock  we  landed,  on  a 
slab  of  marble  which  commemorates  the  arrival  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales  on  the  same  day,  thirteen  years  ago. 

The  weather  was  most  dull  and  muggy,  and  gave  a 
certain  melancholy  to  the  ceremonial  of  address  reading. 
Fred  and  the  Colonel  had  been  e.xulting  all  the  way  upon 
again  seeing  "real  soldiers,"  after  all  the  Volunteers  that 
have  welcomed  us  in  other  places;  but  I  have  been  pro- 
vided with  a  fund  of  chaff  against  them  by  the  non- 
arrival  of  the  "real"  guard  of  honor,  who  made  some 
mistake,  and  turned  up  an  hour  later  at  the  Government 
House,  instead  of  at  the  wharf. 

I  received  Admiral  Fanshawe,  his  wife  and  daughter 
and  son,  in  the  afternoon,  and  when  the  day  cleared  up 
and  the  sun  shone  we  saw  that  we  were  anchored  in  a 
very  cheerful  i)lace  close  to  the  town.  Dartmouth,  which 
is  almost  a  part  of  Halifax,  is  on  one  side  of  us,  and 
woods  and  villas  and  large  institutions  are  dotted  round 


I    'II    i 


u 


io6 


A/y  CAXAD/AX  JOURNAL. 


cu.  vm 


the  Hay,  wliilc  at  t!ic  mouth  of  the  harbor  is  a  small  forti- 
fied island,  ■riicre  is  one  man-of-war  here,  and  we  have 
just  missed  the  Flying  S(iuadron. 

'I'liere  is  a  ciuestion  as  to  whether  Parliament  should 
be  proro^nied  on  Aufriist  i^lh  or  not,  and  the  papers  are 
advising;  the  (lovernor-Creneral,  and  abusinjf  him  in  ad- 
vance, if  he  does  not  follow  each  of  their  different  coun- 
sels. 

Thursday,  j/jA— Lady  Harriet  and  I  went  a  drive 
with  Mrs.  Kanshawe,  and  saw  the  North-west  Arm  and 
Bedford  Basin,  and  enjoyed  the  country  drive;  the 
Meather  was  lovely. 

In  the  evening  we  held  a  Drawing-room  at  Govern- 
ment liouse,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  "full-dressing  "  in 
our  cabins.  We  got  ashore  in  safety,  and  had  a  very 
successful  gathering.  Every  one  said,  "  We  did  not  know 
there  were  so  many  i)eople  in  Halifax."  (;oing  !)ack  to 
the  ship,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  fog,  and  my  feathers 
and  tulle  were  much  the  worse  for  it.  Dent  says,  with 
indignation,  "  iOvery  day  in  this  yac  ht  takes  pounds  and 
pounds  off  the  value  of  your  clothes." 

Friday,  August  ist.—'^V\%  was  the  day  of  the  Regatta, 
and,  had  it  been  fine,  it  would  have  been  a  very  pretty 
sight;  but  as  there  were  fog  and  rain,  little  except  the 
lunch  took  place. 

Wc  had  a  great  dinner  at  the  Lieutenant-Governor's, 
which  was  long  but  pleasant.  One  of  my  neighl)ors 
was  the  R.  G.  Archbishop  of  Halifax,  a  clever,  amusing 
Irishman.  'I'he  dinner  had  rather  a  funny  finale.  Mr. 
Archibalil  proposed  the  <,)ueen's  healtli.  and  we  all  stood 
"|)  to  drink  it;  the  band  played  the  Nalion.d  Air,  and  at 
the  end  of  the  usual  eight  bars  we  all  prepared  to  sit 
down.  But  no  ;  the  band  went  on— a  slight  smile  passed 
down  the  table;  eight  bars  more— the  band  strikes  up 
aniiiher  verse  ;  until  at  last,  alter  several  of  these  un- 


14  r 


i  I  :< 
1  i  i\ 


CU.  VIII 


Aik;.  1873     PA'/XCE  LOUIS  OF  HATTENBF.RG. 


107 


I 

I 


exi>ectcd    l)i-;rinnings,    the   whole    of   the   solemn    and 
stately  party  broke  out  into  a  hearty  laiij^h. 

There  was  an  evening  party  after  dinner,  and  I), 
and  I  walked  about  and  talked  to  all  the  strangers  tdl 
11.30  o'clock,  when  we  retiirneil  to  our  ship, 

Saturday,  Ji/.— Harly  tiiis  morning  we  went  to  visit 
the  fortifications,  and  saw  three  different  sets  of  forts. 
We  returned  to  the  Druid  at  two,  and  had  the  Local 
Government  to  lunch.  'Ihey  are  in  oj)position  to  the 
Dominion  Tarliament,  and  their  papers  were  rather  dis- 
agreeable about  our  visit  here;  but  1  am  happy  to  say 
they  have  set  aside  all  political  differences  for  the  mo- 
ment, and  really  seem  as  if  they  could  not  do  enough 
for  us.  The  result  is,  that  ne.xt  week  we  have  four  balls, 
three  monster  picnics,  three  dinners,  a  concert,  a  cricket- 
match,  and  a  review.  Is  it  not  fearfully  kind  ?  "  What 
shall  I  wear?"  is  a  question  I  must  debate  seriously 
every  day. 

We  dined  to-night  at  Admiralty  Mouse  with  Admiral 
and  Mrs.  Fanshawe,  where  we  met  the  same  people  as 
last  night  and  a  few  sailors.  One  guest,  a  niidshii)ma!i, 
was  Prince  Louis  of  Hattenberg. 

Sunday,  ^7</.  -We  were  to  go  to  the  Knglish  Catliedral 
to-day,  but  our  coachman,  after  drivmg  us  to  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  proceeded  to  another  church,  at 
which  we  remained,  and  only  discovered  afterwards  that 
it  was  the  wrong  one.  It  was  a  lovely  afternoon,  and 
we  sat  (.11  deck  till  bedtime. 

Monday,  4t/i.—\  (.\i\y  of  Herculean  labors!  At  8.30 
A.  M.  I),  went  to  breakfast  with  Admiral  Fanshawe,  to 
see  his  beautiful  drawings.  At  ten  we  rowed  dctwn  to 
the  Dockyard  to  meet  him.  and  all  went  on  board  the 
Hoya/  Alfred.  She  and  the  Spartan  manned  yards  as 
we  approached,  and  then  wc  got  on  board  and  went 
Into  every  hole  and  corner  of  the  ship.    We  had  finished 


t'  I '  1 


108 


Afy  CANADIAX  JOUKXA/.. 


cii.  vm 


the  inspection  about  12.30,  when  \vc  returned  to  the 
J)mi(/,  and  prepared  to  receive  a  party  at  luncheon,  in- 
cluding the  Lieuteiiant-dovernor  and  the  Admiral.  No 
sooner  had  we  finished  this  meal  than  we  started  for  a 
picnic  given  by  the  Irish  lienevolent  Society.  I),  anil  I 
sailed  to  it  in  our  own  little  boat.  The  rendezvous  was 
at  .McNab's  Island,  and  we  were  received  on  laniling  by 
gentlemen  wraring  green  sashes.  The  President  armed 
ine  up  the  hill  by  way  of  helpnig  me.  He,  of  c<n>rse, 
impeded  njy  progress  consideral)ly,  and  when  he  stumbled 
and  nearly  fell,  told  me  that  it  was  "the  blind  leading 
the  blind."  There  was  a  lovely  view  from  the  door  of 
the  large  picnic  shed  ;  but  we  had  to  go  in  at  once,  and 
dance  a  (juadrille.  At  five  we  had  a  "cold  collation" 
and  many  toasts.  The  old  Archbishoji  was  rather 
amusnig.  When  the  chairman,  who  proposed  his  health, 
said  he  hail  known  hin»  for  "  forty  years,"  he  groaned 
aloud,  which  made  us  all  laugh.  We  returned  to  the 
y>///(/ at  seven  o'clock,  and  having  re-dressed  and  re- 
dined,  we  left  her  again  at  eight,  to  attend  a  promenade 
concert  in  Ilortiiiiltural  C.ardens.  We  did  not  "prome- 
nade "  a .  all,  but  sat  on  the  center  one  of  three  stages, 
a  bright  gaslight  thrown  full  upon  us,  and  an  immense 
crowd  looking  on.  On  one  side  was  the  band  of  the 
f)oth  Killes,  and  on  the  other  that  of  the  87th.  They 
played  in  turns,  ami  we  remained  till  the  end  of  the 
performance.  To-day,  at  any  rate,  we  have  earned  a 
night's  repose. 

Tufstiiiy,  y//.— T.ady  Harriet  and  .  went  a  little  shop- 
ping expedition  this  morning.  At  one  shop  I  saw  a  poor 
woman  who  liail  come  250  miles  to  ask  me  to  get  her 
husband  (mU  of  prison.  1  fear  she  did  not  believe  that 
I  really  had  not  the  power  to  do  so. 

\Vj-  vverf  given  a  picnic  to-day  by  the  87th  Regiment, 
P.  and    I   sailed  down  to  the  Island  about  five  o'clock. 


1    M! 


en.  viu 

•d  to  the 
chcoii,  in- 
iiral.  No 
ted  for  a 

1).  ami  I 
:v()iis  was 
uulinij  by 
•lit  armed 
)f  course, 
stumbled 
il  leatlin); 
e  door  of 
oiue,  and 
ollation  " 
as  rather 
lis  health, 
:  |froaneil 
ed  to  tl>e 
J  and  re- 
romeiiaile 

"  prome- 
;e  stajfes, 

immense 
md  t)f  the 
h.  They 
ul  of  the 

carr.od  a 

ttlc  shop- 
aw  a  poor 
to  jjet  her 
licve  that 

Reirlmcnt, 
c  o'clock. 


AUC.  1873 


y.oA'n  l>l'/v/:a'/X's  sPEEcir. 


109 


There  was  a  ^reat  number  of  people,  and  it  was  very 
pretty  and  anuisin>f. 

\\  hen  it  was  (juite  dark,  we  went  out  lobster-spearinj^. 
We  had  two  boats,  and  two  j;reat  torches  in  each,  and 
we  stood  up— with  poles  forked  at  one  end  in  our  hands 
— and  watched  the  bottom  for  lobsters.  Presently  we 
saw  one  crawlin^r  aion^r;  i  nj-uie  a  ^rab  at  himj  but 
missed.  Then  came  a  second  ;  this  time  1  was  more 
careful,  and  aimed  my  weajion  slowly  at  him,  puttui},^  the 
fork  rijrht  over  his  back,  and  then  liftni>r  him.  kickin;;, 
into  the  boat.  It  was  very  e.xcitin^.  We  were  only  able 
to  stay  a  very  short  time,  but  we  "grabbed  "  at  five  and 
broujrht  home  three. 

UWnesJay,  6t/t.—\  luncheon  party  on  board,  which 
went  off  very  well.  Then  a  visit  to  a  ^rreat  lunatic  asy- 
lum— a  beautiful  one,  .so  vray  and  clean  and  (|uiet.  Al- 
most all  the  patients  were  out  in  the  grounds,  the  band 
playing,  and  everything  and  everybody  happy  and  peace- 
ful. It  seems  to  be  admirably  managed,  and  the  view 
fr;.n  the  building  is  splendid.  I),  dined  with  the  Arch- 
bishop, and  I.ady  Harriet  and  I  with  Mrs.  Kanshawe. 
She  had  the  rrince-Midshipman  and  .some  other  .sailors 
to  meet  us. 

T/iufs,/,fv,;/A.—\\ii  had  another  great  lunch  on  board, 
which  went  off  very  well,  in  spite  of  the  weather  being 
rather  wet  ;ind  cold. 

In  the  evening  1).  dined  at  the  Club,  and  made  a 
speech  upon  the  absolute  impartiality  (.f  the  (lovermjr- 
(leneral  in  party  matters  (there  is  great  strife  going  on 
now),  which  was  e.vtremely  well  received.  He  ended  by 
saying:  "  As  a  reasonable  being  the  (lovernor-deneral 
can  not  help  having  convictions  upon  the  merits  of  dif- 
ferent  policies.  Hut  these  considerations  are  abstract, 
?perij!ativ€,  devoid  of  practical  effect  on  hi^  official  rela- 
tions.   As  the  iiead  of  a  Constitutional  Slate,  as  engaged 


m 


no 


A/y  CAS'ADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  VIII 


in  llic  ailmiiiistration  of  Parliamentary  (lovernment,  he 
has  no  political  friends,  still  less  need  he  have  political 
enemies;  the  possession  of  either — nay,  even  to  be  sus- 
pected of  possessinj;  either  —  destroys  his  usefulness, 
yometimes,  of  course,  no  matter  how  disconnected  iiis 
personality  may  be  from  what  is  taking'  place,  his  name 
will  K<-''^  drajij^ei'.  into  some  controversy,  and  he  may  Sud- 
denly lir.d  himself  the  subject  of  criticism  in  the  press 
of  whatever  party  may  for  the  moment  be  out  of  humor ; 
but  under  these  circumstances  he  must  console  himself 
with  the  reflection  that  these  spasmodic  castiyations  are 
as  transitory  and  innocuous  as  the  disiii)Iine  ai)plied 
occasionally  to  their  idol  by  the  unsophisticated  wor- 
shipeis  of  Mumbo  Jumbo  when  their  harvests  are  short 
or  a  murrain  visits  their  flocks."  D.  met  me  afterwards 
at  a  bad  at  the  Cleneral's,  where  he  had  tt)  ilance  every- 
thinj;  t'l!  two  o'clock. 

/>/  ./,,  ,!»'///. — We  had  a  larjje  lunch  on  board,  ami 
after  i^  went  to  a  review  of  the  garrison  and  Volunteers 
on  the  common,  and,  as  the  afternoon  was  lovely,  it  was 
a  very  line  sight — red  coats,  brilliant  staff,  His  K.\cel- 
lency  and  Kred  riiling  about,  cocked  hats,  rilles,  l)aiids, 
artilleiy.  engineers,  a  sham  fight,  a  large  number  of  spec- 
tators, etc. 

To-night  we  had  a  really  beautiful  ball,  given  by  the 
Legislative  Council,  in  the  I'arliament  lUiildings.  The 
ball-room  is  very  lofty,  has  handsome  cornices,  aiul  sev- 
eral full-length  oil  porr. aits  hanging  in  it.  Tiic  whole 
of  the  walls  were  covered  with  white  calico,  striped  with 
bands  of  pink  ;  over  the  dot)rs  and  window  were  "  l),s," 
surroundeil  bv  pink-and- white  Hags;  tlie  tuirtains  and 
all  tile  wiiulows  were  pink-and-white  tarlatan,  and  it 
was  all  very  briglu  and  finished-looking.  The  supper- 
room  was  hung  witli  real  Hags,  and  the  cntrance-luill 
was  converted  into  a  grotto  of  ferns.    There  was  plenty 


CH.  VIII 

nmcnt,  he 
e  political 
to  be  siis- 
iscfuliifss. 
lected  his 

his  name 
.•  may  sud- 
I  the  press 
;)f  humor ; 
)le  himself 
;ations  are 
le  ai)plied 
ated  wor- 

are  short 
ifterwards 
lue  every- 

)()ard,  and 
/olunte'TS 
cly,  it  was 
iis  Kxcel- 
les,  bands, 
er  of  spec- 
imen by  the 
n^^-  'IHe 
■1,  and  scv- 
Ihe  whole 
riped  with 
ere  "  D.s," 
rtains  and 
an,  and  it 
he  snpper- 
:rance-hall 
was  plenty 


AUG.  1873  riCXIC  AT  McNAB'S  ISLAND.  ,„ 

of  -MX  in  the  (lancinji-room,  and  a  very  ^ood  band,  and 
we  really  enjoyed  it  very  mnch  (you  know  there  are 
occasionally  entertainments  which  are  more  duty  than 
pleasure). 

SiUunhy,  j^M.—The  political  difficulties  to  which  [ 
have  alluded  call  I),  back  to  Ottawa,  and  he  has  had  a 
very  busy  morninij,  writing  farewell  letters,  and  making 
arrangements  for  the  long  journey,  which  he  begins  to- 
night. If  he  had  gone  by  rail  it  would  have  taken  him 
at  least  seventy  hours;  but  he  luckily  catches  an  Kng- 
lish  mail  steamer  on  its  way  to  (Quebec,  which  will  take 
him  part  of  the  way.  and  will  leave  him  within  twenty- 
four  hours'  journey  of  Ottawa. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  a  mf.nster  picnic  given 
to  us  by  the  citizens.  The  day  was  lovely,  and  we  sailed 
down  to  McNab's  Island  in  our  boat.  The  Mayor,  who 
received  us.  led  us  to  the  large  shed,  of  which  I  have  al- 
ready  told  you,  where  all  the  peoi)le  were  waiting  for  us. 
We  danced  a  (piadnlle.  and  were  a|)plau<led  after  it,  and 
then  a  few  round  dances.  .After  dinner  I),  made  a  s|)cech, 
in  which  he  "confided  me  to  the  care  of  the  people  of 
Halifax  during  his  absence,"  and  very  .soon  after  this 
we  were  conducted  down  f)  the  boats  and  returned  to 
the  Druid. 

At  eight  we  went  to  Government  House,  and  were 
met  there  by  a  torchlight  i)rocessi()n,  and  by  a  grand 
fire-engine  demonstration,  the  engines  preceding  us,  and 
being  brilliantly  illuminated.  Many  of  the  houses  also 
were  lighted  up,  and  there  was  an  immense  crowd  in  the 
town,  which  we  drove  slowly  through,  !)ack  to  (Jueen's 
Wharf,  where  a  guard  of  honor  was  in  waiting,  and 
where  I),  said  "  good-by."  The  torches  all  remained 
at  the  pier  till  we  had  reached  the  IhuU ;  it  was  a  beau- 
tiful sight. 

D.  and  Colonel  Fletcher  got  on  board  the  NatorUin 


1 


112 


M  Y  CA  XA  DIA  N  JO  URN  A  L. 


CH.  VIII 


at  ten,  and  we  watched  them  steaminft  past  us;  both  we 
and  the y  sent  off  some  rockets.  And  now,  here  am  I, 
Idone  for  a  week,  doing  "  (lovernor-General "  at  Hali- 

Monday,  //M.— This  was  a  very  tiring  day.  In  the 
morning  I  had  a  great  many  things  to  do  for  1).,  and  m 
the  afternoon  I  had  Umcl.  with  the  Archibalds,  which 
lasted  till  after  four;  and  at  6.30  had  to  be  at  the  Gen- 
eral's* house  for  dinner. 

He  was  too  ill  to  appear,  and  we  were  a  small  party 
of  eight.  After  dinner  we  proceeded  to  the  theatre, 
where  we  saw  "Still  Waters  Run  Deep"  and  "Under 
the  Rose  "  acted  by  amateurs.  There  were  some  excel- 
lent actors,  and  I  enjoyed  it  very  much.  I  received 
three  bouquets,  which  I  carried  together  in  an  enor- 
mous bunch.  The  best  performers  were  Major  and 
Mrs.  Hall,  Captain  and  Mrs.  Mitchell  Innes,  t'aptani 
Wallace  of  the  60th  Rilles,  and  Mr.  Poe,  who  is  on  the 
Ro\al  Alfred. 

I  went  to  supper  at  the  Artillery  Barracks,  and  I 
believe  there  was  dancing  afterwards,  but,  mercifully,  I 
knew  nothing  of  it,  and  left  b'cfore  there  were  any  symp- 
toms of  such  an  intention.     I  was  so  very  tired. 

Tuesday,  12th.— ^\r.  and  Mrs.  Robinson  came  on 
board  to  say  "  Good-by,"  and  1  had  a  lunch  for  four- 
teen people.  My  guests  were  two  hanilsomc  Toronto 
girls  and  two  admirers  of  theirs,  the  Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernor and  his  family  (five),  and  Captain  and  Mrs.  O'Gra- 
dy  Haly.     He  is  the  General's  son  and  A.  1).  C. 

It  was  a  lovely  afternoon,  and  after  lunch  we  drove 
through  the  Horticultural  Gardens  to  a  cricket-match— 
the  60th  Rifles  against  the  Garrison. 

Then  we  dined  with  Admiral  and  Mrs.  Fanshawe, 


♦  The  lolc  General  Sir  W.  OT.mdy  Hftly. 


CH.  VIII 

,  both  we 
lerc  am  I, 
■  at  Hali- 

.     In  the 

).,  and  in 

(Is,  which 

the  Gen- 

nall  party 
e  theatre, 
1  '*  Under 
)me  excel- 
[   received 

an  enor- 
lajor  and 
s,  Captain 

is  on  the 

;ks,  and  I 
crcifuUy,  I 
any  symp- 
d. 

came  on 
1  for  four- 
le  Toronto 
.•nant-(iov- 
^rs.  O'Gra- 
C. 

h  we  drove 
et-match — 

Fanshawe, 


At'O.  1873 


/XDrS'/A-/,!/.   HOMES. 


113 


and  went  with  them  to  tlic  hall  on  board   the  Roxal  41- 

JtCll. 

I  did  like  this  entertainment.     The  ship  was  close  to 
the  wharf.      1  he  deck  was  d.vided  at  the  mast  into  two 
part.s-supper-room  and  ball-room,  and  at  nHdniLdn  the 
part.t.on  was  taken  down.     The  funnel  was  beautifully 
decorated  w.th  arms-swords,  bayonets,  etc.-and  was 
surrounded  by  jets  of  ^as.     The  st.pper-tabies  were  ar- 
ranged   between    it    and    the   mainmast,    round    which 
there  was  a  rockery  and  fernery,  in  which  water  trickled 
and  frogs  disported  themselves.     The  band  sat  upon  a 
scaffolding  round  the  mast.     The  whole  was  covered  in 
with   flags,  and  all   the  companions,  compasses,  wheels 
etc.,  etc    were  ornamented  with  plants.    The  poop  made 
a  .second  ball-room,  also  covered,  in  the  shape  of  a  bell- 
tent,  and   I  had  a  seat   there,  and  a   good  view   of  the 
ball.      I  hose  who  preferred   Nature  could   gaze  out   in 
the  opposite  direction  upon  the  moonlit  sea.     I  did  not 
occu^py  the  chair-of-state  much,  but  danced,  and  enjoyed 

U'cdncsJ.y^  jjth.-\  took  a  long  rest  this  morning, 
and  was  ready  .n  the  afternoon  to  visit  some  Protestan 
chanties. 

The  first  was  an  orphan-home,  and  the  second  a  very 
interesting  reformatory  for  boys.  It  is  on  a  new  prin- 
c.ple  and  seems  to  answer  admirablv.  All  the  inmates 
are,  or  were,  criminals.  There  are  no  walls,  or  bolts  or 
bars,  and  the  br)ys  arc  even  allowed  to  go  into  the  town 
on  honor.       They  promise  to  return,  and  do. 

I  Mey  all  learn  trades,  a.ul  do  not  leave  the  Home  till 
hey  are  able  to  earn  thrir  bread.  They  choose  one  of 
four  trades,  and  are  allowed  to  change  their  minds  onre 
We  saw  them  hard  at  work,  carpentering,  shoemaknig," 
tadonng,  and  cabinet-making,  the  gmaller  ones  cutting 
"P  firewood,  and  tying  it   in  bundles.     They  also   do 

Q 


i  M 


i  ! 


.1  V 

\ 

! 

i 
1 

r 

'i 

114 


Af  Y  CA  NA  DIA  .V  JO  URNAL. 


CH.  VIII 


gardening  and  farm-work,  and  have  got  small  pieces  of 
garden  and  pets  of  their  own,  and  a  band;  school-work 
is  done  in  the  evening.  The  boys  looked  very  happy, 
and  the  few  who  at  different  times  have  run  away  gen- 
erally return  of  their  own  accord. 

This  evening  a  ball  was  given  to  us  by  the  60th 
Rines.  It  was  a  most  successful  one.  The  room  looked 
like  a  very  smart  lady's  boudoir,  and  was  beautifully 
lighted  with  wax  candles.  I  danced  a  great  deal,  and 
liked  the  entertainment  extremely.     We  were  not  home 

till  three.  .    ,     , 

Thursday,  I4th.~\  had  to  leave  Lady  Harriet  m  bed 
with  an  asthmatic  cold,  while  I  delivered  myself  over  to 
the  Roman  Catholic  Archbishop.  Fred  and  I  visited 
his  house  and  his  Cathedral,  and  a  convent,  and  went 
on  to  his  country  place,  where  he  had  150  people  at 
lunch  to  meet  me.  The  lunch  was  out  of  doors,  and 
was  really  very  pleasant.  There  was  a  band,  and  little 
wooden  platforms,  on  which  we  were  sui^posed  to  dance! 
— -md  did  try  to,  but  every  one  is  worn  out  with  past 
g'lveties  I  got  back  to  the  ship  at  five  (having  left  it 
at 'twelve),  and  at  nine  I  attended  the  Sergeants'  Ball. 

The  political  excitement  is  fearful,  and  we  hear  that 
the  Opposition  is  going  to  ask  for  the  Governor-Gen- 
eral's recall ! !     So  expect  us  home  in  disgrace. 

SiXturdax,  i6tft.—\\c  went  to  Dartmouth,  and  visited 
a  rope  manufactorv,  and  a  skate  manufactory,  where  I 
was  presented  with  a  grand  box  containing  two  lovely 
pairs  of  Acme  skates,  for  1).  and  me.  We  drove  on 
seven  miles,  by  a  chain  of  lakes,  till  we  came  to  an  old- 
fashioned  inn,  where  we  had  lunch.  After  this  we  went 
to  a  gold-mine,  and  saw  all  the  process  of  extracting  the 
precious  metal,  which  1  thought  very  interesting.  This 
ended  our  sisrht-sceing.  All  day  we  went  about  in  a 
procession  of  ten  carriages.      I  gave  a  dinner  to  the 


CH.  VIII 

lieces  of 
lol-work 
;  happy, 
ay  gcn- 

the  6oth 
n  looked 
autifuUy 
]eal,  and 
ot  home 

2t  in  bed 
f  over  to 
I   visited 
md  went 
people  at 
oors,  and 
and   little 
to  dance! 
with  past 
ng  left  it 
ts'  Ball, 
hear  that 
rnor-den- 

nd  visited 
;,  where  I 
wo  lovely 
drove  on 
to  an  old- 
s  we  went 
•acting  the 
ing.  This 
ibout  in  a 
ner  to  the 


AUG.  1873         ST.  /O/AV,   A-EIV  BRUXSWICK. 


"5 


amateur  actors  on  board  the  Druid,  and  afterwards 
went  to  see  them  do  "Caste,"  which  was  very  amus- 
ing.  ■" 

Monday,  iSth.~\\\  left  our  dear  Druid  early  in  tlie 
mornnig.  and  drove  to  the  train,  where  the  Lieutenant- 
(.overnor  met  us  and  escorted  us  for  about  six  hours  on 
our  way.     We  passed  through  "  Evangeline's"  country 
to  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  wliere  we  got  into  a  crazv-looking 
steamer   and    sailed    for    St.    John.     Here    th;    Mavor 
Sherilt,  etc.,  came  to  meet  me,  and   there    was  a  greU 
crowd  on  the  landing.     Never  was  I  .so  stared  at  as  to- 
day.    When  D.  is  with  me  I  feel  that  I  am  (miy  part  of 
the  show;  but  alone,  I  have  to  bear  it  all      At  the  sta 
turns  people  looked  in  at  the  windows,  and  gax.ed  at  \ne 
while  1  ate  sandwiches  (of  all  the  things  in  the  world  ' )  • 
when  we  got  to  the  hotel,  a  crowd  outside  eyed  me  and 
a  crowd  inside  stared  at  me,  and  on  the  stairs  Yankee 
visitors  criticised  me.  «  I  guess  -  ;  I  went  to  my  room  for 
a  ht  le.  and  on  my  way  t(,  dinner  I  found  them  all  still 
on  the  stairs,  and  they  looked  at  me  through  the  hinges 
of    he  door  ;  when  I  came  up  again  there  was  a  c.niple 
walking  arm-m-arm  in  my  room,  and  three  ladies  look- 
ing mto  It;  but  I  walked  by  them  in  so  stately  a  man- 
ner that  they  .sent  me  wor,I  they  had  only  come  to  put 
some  flowers  there.     Then  the  crowd  outside  would  not 
go   and  I  had  to  stand  at  the  window,  and  be  cheered 
and  hear  "(;od  save  the  Queen"  (to  which  I  have  no 
right  whatsoever). 

^"'■^"'".''.  /^///.-n.  arrived  here  this  morning.  ITe 
left  Ottawa  on  Friday,  slept  that  night  at  Montreal,  and 
Saturday  night  at  some  place  in  the  White  Mountains* 
where  he  found  a  ball  going  on.  Sunday,  he  saw  the 
scenery,  and  came  on  here  at  night. 


In  the  State  of  Afaine. 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


cH.  vni 


The  whole  day  was   wet,  and  I  can  not  say   I   was 
sorry  to  have  a  complete  rest. 

This  is  a  fine  hotel,  upon  American  prmciples.      I  he 
cooking  is  excellent,  and  we  dine  alone,  and  are  waited 
upon  by  our  own  servants  in  a  "  private  dining-room 
which  seems  to  us  a  very  noisy  one  after  the  ship.      1  he 
floor  is  covered  with  oilcloth,  there  are  no  curtams,  and 
outside  there  is  always  going  on  a  racket  of  plates  and 
voices     Some  kind  of  steam-engine  thumps  underneath, 
and  carriages  rattle  down  the  street.     We  manage  our 
dinner  in  a  tolerably   English   fashion;  but  if  we  fol- 
lowed the  •'  mode,"  we  should  eat  in  a  great  room,  filled 
with   various-sized   tables,  with    a  large  "  bill-of-fare 
by  us  to  choose  from.     After  each  mouthful  a  familiar 
waiter  would  lean  his  hand  upon  his  knee,  and,  stanng 
into  our  faces,  ask  "  What  we  should  like  next  ?       Then, 
at  every  pause,  and  on  every  opportunity,  he  would  pour 
us  out  a  large  glass  of  cold  water,  and  place  it  ostenta- 
tiously before  us-this  even  at  breakfast,  when  the  sight 
of  it  makes  one  shudder.    Salt-spoons  are  unknown ;  you 

■jse  your  knife  instead.  ,    ,  ,  i 

Our  own  sitting-room  is  very  nice  and  comfortable. 
Everything  is  arranged  so  that  one  may  require  as  few 
servants  as  possible ;  and  this  is  lucky,  for  an  idiot  gen- 
erally answers  one's  bell,  and  is  merely  bewildered  by 

one's  order. 

There  is  a  large  public  drawing-room,  and  the  guests 

also  perambulate  the  passages  a  good  deal. 

Our  maids  enjoy  themselves,  as  they  dine  with  the 
company,  and  can  have  many  kinds  of  food,  while  they 
fill  their  heads  with  the  fashions.  Dent  gave  a  sigh  of 
relief  when  she  dressed  me  this  morning,  as  she  said, 
"  Well,  I  am  thankful  none  of  them  have  a  dress  like 
^{^jg  I .'  «  xhem  "  are  Americans,  who  are  all  in  a  sort  of 
uni^form  of  gray,  with  enormous  buttons.    I  was  amused 


CH.  VIII 

'   I   was 

s.  The 
c  waited 
r-rooni," 
p.  The 
lins,  and 
ites  and 
lerneath, 
lage  our 

we  fol- 
)i-n,  filled 
-of-fare  " 

familiar 
1,  staring 
"  Then, 
luld  pour 
;  ostenta- 
the  sight 
DWn ; you 

nfortable. 
re  as  few 
idiot  gen- 
Idered  by 

the  guests 

I  with  the 
,vhile  they 
a  sigh  of 
she  said, 
dress  like 
n  a  sort  of 
as  amused 


AUG.  1873  /'J!OC£SS/O.V  OF  SCHOOLS. 

ti[  lor  Halifax,  to  worry  the  Govt-rnor-Ofner-il  -     W 

'"  carriage,  al,  abo„<  and  ar,„„Kl  the  ci.;  '      '  " 

of  St.  John  ^     '        ^''  "*  ^'''"^'  '^^'^ 

ror::r:::r:s:::rr>;rr^" 

over.  '^  '  "^  presentations  were 

see  "i.rTl'tT^r'V  ^"'"■'  «  '•--'  '° 

ce  s.on  of  the  schools  came  to  the  door  of  the  hite 
and  we  stood  on  the  steps  to  see  them  ' 

so  Lit  it  ^^"'^  '"■"""^  "•'^'  but  the  crowd  was 

Ismail  ctr'  ""'^"""^  '"'•  ^^^"^  ^>'  ^«  ^^'^  through 
A  small  circle  was  formed  for  those  who  were  dres'ed 

quet.  the  other  children  had  to  stand  where  they  could. 


M. 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


en.  VIII 


ii8 

1)  made  a  speech  to  the  sea  of  heads,  which  few  of  the 

waves  heard   but  which  will  read  well,  1  lu.pe 

it  th;  e;enin,  carriages  were  again  ready,  and  we 
drove  through  the  town  in  a  procession 

Heing  part  of  the  procession  we  saw  little  ot    t 
the  e        when  our  carnage  stood  to  let  the  crowd  pass 
u  here  was  an   immense  stream  of  walking  lights 

"  nd  .  Ith  fire-engines  were  lighted  up,  and  ornamented 
w  h  rc^lths  and  flowers.  Some  of  the  horses  had  high 
::!:  of  roses  over  their  hacks.  'H--^^ ;-,;-; 
fectlv  tremendous,  and  received  us  heartih.  U  hen  we 
^^u'hehotel.wewenttoawindowonte^ 

story   to   look  down  upon  the  crowd,  and  thc>   sasv 

'"^7tA-We  had  a  long  drive  of  fourteen  miles 
to  ChieMustice  Ritchie's  house,  where  we  were  to 
unch  The  drive  was  through  a  beautiful  country,  and 
:  td  several  warm  greetings  on  our  way.  An  arch 
was  put  up  at  one  place,  and  a  bouquet  presented.  At 
unotl^r  p  ivate  house  the  gate  was  hung  with  f  owers. 
and  the  lady  stepped  out  with  a  seco.d  bouquet  for  me, 
while  a  third  was  brought  me  further  on 

We  had  lunch,  or  what  was  called  a  "  high  tea  ;  but 
there  was  no  tea-only  champagne.  ReUirning  home, 
we  found  several  bonfires  lighted  along  the  route^ 

We  reached  our  hotel  at  eight,  and  dressed  for  the 
ball  This  was  given  in  a  new  theatre,  and  .as  got  up 
•  a  great  hurry.'  The  fioor  had  to  ^e  laid  down  over 
the  pit,  and  the  decorations  to  be  done,  and  during  the 
d  7we  heard  that  it  was  not  nearly  finished,  and  that  it 
would  be  dull  and  wretched. 

It  was,  therefore,  a  pleasant  surprise  when  we  reach  d 
the  door  and  saw  a  brilliant  room,  the  «tage  end  with 
"Welcome  "in  gas-light,  .ver  two  ---•^;^^'"^^  ^^ 
floor  lined  with  ball-dressed  people,  the  boxes  end  the 


CH.  VIII 

,v  of  the 

and  we 

of  it  till 
)\v(l  pass 
g  lights, 
amentcd 
had  high 
was  per- 
^Vhen  we 
e  second 
y  saw  us 

een  miles 
were  to 
ntry,  and 
An  arch 
nted.  At 
1  flowers, 
et  for  me, 

tea  " ;  but 
ing  home, 
ute. 

2d  for  the 
^as  got  up 
Jown  over 
during  the 
and  that  it 

we  reached 

e  end  with 

chairs,  the 

es  end  the 


AUG.  1873 


I-REDKRICTO.V. 


119 


dress-crcle  filled  with  spectators,  draperies  of  red  and 
green,  flags,  plants,  and  cages  of  birds  (which  sang  and 
gave  a  rural  sontinient  to  the  entertainment),  and  a  very 
beautiful  string-band  playing  "Cod  save  the  Oueen  •' 
i^upper  was  in  the  green-room.  Tlie  ball  was  ve^'  sue 
cessful  and  amusing.  There  were  many  Americans  pres- 
ent ;  they  dance  in  quite  a  different  stvle  from  ours 

Sf'rJay,  2jd.-~\N^  felt  very  sleepy  v.hen  we  were 
called  this  morning,  hut  we  had  to  be  down  at  the 
steamer  at  ten,  and  could  n<.t  allow  ourselves  any  lazv 
indulgences.  ^ 

We  drove  with  the  Mayor  to  the  wharf,  and  were 
met  by  a  great  crowd,  and  there  was  much  wav:-r  of 
handkerchiefs  and  cheering  as  we  left.  Our  journey^'was 
up  a  splendid  river,  the  St.  John,  with  lovely  scene'ry  all 
the  way.  About  fiye  miles  from  Fredericton  we  were 
met  by  three  steamers  crammed  full  of  children  and 
people,  who  greeted  us  warmly,  and,  having  once  begun 
to  cheer,  felt  obliged  to  carry  it  on  the  whole  way. 

Mr.  Wilmot,  the  Lieutenant-Govc- oi  N..^  Bruns 

wick    met   us  at   the  landing-pla< ,       ,  uh   a  number  of 
people,  and  we  had  a  most  gra(  lous   reception  at  this 
;  the  ambitious  little  city,"  "  the  celestial  city,"  Freder- 
icton. 

We  dined  early,  and  went  to  the  Exhibition  Building 
where  the  address  was  to  be  presented.  It  is  a  very  flne 
building,  though  only  made  of  rough  wood,  distempered  • 
but  It  has  good  proportions,  and  is  very  large.  There 
were  at  least  .?,ooo  people  present.  The  school-children 
sang,  and  after  the  speeches  we  walked  round,  and  then 
got  into  a  carriage  and  drove  in  the  torchlight  proces- 
sion. The  engines  looked  beautiful;  but  my  pleasure 
was  somewhat  destroyed  by  my  dread  of  fire  The 
torches  were  paraffin  lamps,  and  the  war  in  xvhi.h  ma  — 
of  them  were  spilled  about  tiie  ground,  and  went  on 


iiA 


120 


M  Y  CAN  A  DIA  N  JO  URNAL. 


CH.  VIII 


l! 


I 


burning  there,  muslin  },'owns  walking  carelessly  close  to 
them,  made  me  fear  some  bad  accident.  Rockets  and 
Roman  candles  were  also  (lying  wildly  about. 

This  (iovernment  House  (where  we  are  staying  with 
the  Wilmots,  who  are  both  most  kind  to  us)  is  a  very 
good  one ;  the  river  passes  the  house,  and  a  very  pretty 
flower  garden  goes  down  to  it. 

Sunday,  24th.— i\  pouring  wet  day,  and  very  stormy. 
Wc  got  to  the  Cathedral  in  a  close  carriage.  It  is  rather 
a  fine  one,  and  is  quite  finished— strange  to  say !  The 
rest  of  the  day  we  spent  quietly,  the  greater  part  of 
the  time  in  our  rooms. 

Monday,  2j///.— The  people  of  Fredericton   had  ar- 
ranged a  picnic  for  us  to-day,  so  we  started  off  on  our 
business  directly  after  breakfast.     We  went  first  to  see 
an  interesting  settlement,  the  property  of  a  Mr.  (libson. 
Eight  years  ago  there  was  not  a  house  in  the  place; 
now  there  are  good  cottages  for  the  laborers,  fine  houses 
for  Mr.  C.ibson  and  his  sons,  a  very  ornamental  church, 
and  a  school.     He  has  done  everything  himself,  and  the 
place  is  quite  a  Happy  Valley.     His  business  is  lumber. 
His  old  mother,  who  left  our  neighborhood  in  Ireland 
fifty-fours  ago,  was  so  delighted  to  see  some  one  from 
<'  hmne."     Her  parents  having  objected  to  her  marriage, 
never  wrote  to  her,  and  I  wish  they  could  see  her  now, 
in  her  son's  fine  house,  surrounded  by  every  comfort 
that  money  could  buy  her.  her  granddaughter  playing 
ihe  organ,  and  her  son  so  much  respected  and  honored! 
After   this  visit  we  got   into  the  train,  and   with  a 
large  company  of  people  went  thirty  miles  up  the  new 
line,  and  half-way  back   again,  to  a    place  on  the  St. 
John    River,  where  an  arbor   of   evergreens  had  been 
erected,  under  which  250  people  lunched. 

A  band  played,  toasts  were  proposed,  and  all  went 
off  well,  in  spite  of  rather  dull,  cold  weather. 


CH.  VIII 


AUG.  1873 


GRAXD  FALLS. 


121 


In  the  evening  there  was  a  dinner  and  a  party  the 
pnncpal  excuement  of  which  was  that  Frc^^l  u.'d  ! 
young  lady  disappeared  for  more  than  an  hen  in  ,,' 
"■^■■nmated  garden;  that  her  parents  were  askinreverv 
o.>e  where  their  daughter  was;  and  that,  cons  "'  tiv 
al  eyes  were  fixed  upon  the  culprits  when  they  etur"  J 
Ired  has  had  a  great  deal  of  chatf  to  stuid  IIT 

We  were  told  that,  at  the  hotel  where  the  youn;r  hdv 
was  s  ayn,g,  other  young  ladies  remarked     luu  ^  h'v 

"r:.:;::^s;f-----'--o.on:;::^ 

changed  horsi  and  had "nc^     U'    ^r^,,  "'"    ^^ 

many  bouquets  1  received  to-day  !       '     ^  "^^^  ^  "^^  '^"W 
Wednesday,  2-7 th VW  li.,)  ..  c        ■ 

a.  .Hi,  ,u„c  Placed;:;:,;;  ;:i;:;-7,,:x:'.  T"  --'7 

cent  l)„nf,re»,  an  ,„i,lri.«  .,„|  ''■';'""""■  '■""I,  n,a„nifi. 
heard  ■•  Rule  H    ,''„,"    •■  , , '"  "=  *""'  *•"'"--•  "'  I'ed  we 

There  wa,  I,":":::';;. ,::  ?p;"j;  ,r'"f ''-^;"-- 

"rche,,      T„e  inn  was  kep.  ',„  I'N^.roT.'r.lS 


i'« 


I 


il 


tl  :, 

I 
I 


if 
i 

!     ! 
1 


122 


M  Y  CA  NA  DIA  N  JO  URN  A  L. 


CH.  Via 


lady,  and  was  perfect !     The  Grand  Falls  here  are  very 

fine. 

Thursday,  2S//i.—\\'c  started  at  eight  iiunctually  this 
morning,  for  we  have  250  miles  to  go,  and  drove  on  as 
before,  stopping  to  have  hinch  by  the  way,  and  sleeping 
at  a  little  French  inn.  The  family  got  ui*  a  dance  when 
we  hail  gone  to  bed,  and  we  heard  the  fiddle  going,  and 
our  servant  instructing  them  in  a  Scotch  reel,  during  half 

the  night. 

J'>t\/iiv,  2Qt/i.—\\Q  got  ui)  very  early,  and  drove, 
drove,  drove  on  ihrough  forest  nearly  the  whole  day. 
We  saw  one  great  fire  in  the  wood,  and  were  nearly 
choked  as  we  passed  through  it.  We  missed  seeing  a 
beautiful  lake  owing  to  the  clouds  of  smoke  hanging 

over  il. 

We  reached  Riviere  du  Loup  about  five  in  the  after- 
noon, and  got  a  tug  steamer  to  take  us  straight  over  to 

Tadousac. 

There  we  found  the  whole  party  of  children  in  their 
dressing-gowns,  just  going  to  bed.  The  five  elder  ones 
are  looking  so  fat,  and  .osy,  and  well;  but  my  baby  is  a 
mite  indeed ! 

Saturday,  jot/i.— Our  summer  tour  is  now  over,  and  I 
return  to  a  i)rosy  account  of  home  altairs.  We  have 
done  all  we  intended  to  do;  and  the  drive  of  250  miles 
in  four  days  was  a  very  pleasant  termination  to  our  tour. 
The  J)ruid  was  to  have  met  us  at  Rivitre  du  Loup,  but 
was  detained  by  storm,  and  only  reached  Tadousac  this 
morning. 


CH.  VIII 


are  very 


ally  this 
ve  on  as 
sleeping 
ice  when 
)ing,  and 
ring  half 

J  drove, 
lole  day. 
c  nearly 
seeing  a 
hanging 

he  aftcr- 
t  over  to 

n  in  their 
Uler  ones 
baby  is  a 

I'cr,  and  I 
We  have 
250  miles 
I  our  tour. 
Loup,  but 
Kisac  this 


CHAl'TKR   IX. 

'illK    I- AM.,    ,873. 

Tadousac:  Monday,  S^f^L-mhcr  ist-\  seized  upon  a 
fine  mornn.g  to  bathe  with  the  children.  It  is  rather 
ate  in  the  season  for  a  first  dip,  but  I  .unid  not  re.sist 
tryn,g  .t,  though  the  water  i.  at  all  tin,es  e.xtren.ely  cold 
here.  We  prepared  f  .  "^  bath  in  our  own  rooms,  and 
covered  with  waterj  ,aa  down  to  the  water.     My 

costume  .s  of  the  brightest  orange,  and  is  very  striking 
We  are  very  quiet  here,  and  U  very  busy,  lie  is  writ- 
ing the  whole  day  long. 

Friday,  j///._We  went  on  board  the  Druid  just  be- 
fore dinner,  last  night,  and  took  Nelly  with  us  for  a  little 
holiday.     The  night  was  rather  rough,  but  the  wind  suited 
and  we  reached  (,)uebe<-  early  this  morning.     We  found' 
Mr.  {;,  Urodrick  *  at  the  hotel,  and  1).  brought  him  up 
to  stay  with  us;  he  is  very  pleasant,  and  gave  us  much 
Kiiglish  news.     I  drove  him  to  the  Montmorency  Kails, 
and  just  as  we  were  on  our  way  to  the  Natural  Steps  we 
were  caught  in  a  heavy  shower,  and  got  rather  wet. 
These  steps  are  very  curious.    The  river  narrows  at  this 
place,  and  has  cut  a  regular  staircase  in  the  rock  tlirough 
which  it  makes  its  way.     D.  did  not  move  from  his  desk 
all  day  ;  he  was  up  till  two,  and  the  clerks  till  four,  ami 
the  steamer  had  to  wait  half  an  hour  this  morning  (Sat- 
urday) for  the  monster  dispatch. 


•  The  II.,.,.  (;.  C.  Urodrick.  now  Warden  of  Nf  crton  CoIK'tjc.  Oxfonl. 


124 


AfV  CANADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  IX 


i 


I'  ;i 


Fn'Jay,  121/1. — W-  jijavc  an  oiitiloor  afternoon  party 
on  the  platform,  an>i  were  anxious  about  the  weather, 
which  turned  out  to  be  perfectly  lovely.  The  amuse- 
ments consisted  of  a  band,  dancing,  a  bear,  and  my  chil- 
dren (who  all  arrived  in  the  morninj^)  to  be  looked  at. 
Hasil  was  a  splendid  sigiit,  and  had  the  air  of  Henry 
VIII,  as  he  sat  back  in  a  small  rocking-chair,  with  his 
sturdy  form  and  rosy  cheeks.  The  others  are  "ery  nour- 
ishing, and  the  "  tamil)  "  did  us  creilit,  particularly  as  I 
did  not  show  my  baby,  of  whom  I  can  not  yet  be  proud. 
Instead  of  her,  we  exhil)ited  the  Queen's  present  to  her 
godchild.  It  is  a  large  medallion,  with  Her  Majesty's 
head  in  raised  gold  in  the  center,  surrounded  by  rows  of 
diamonds,  pink  coral,  and  pearls.  On  the  back  is  en- 
graved, "  Laily  Victoria  Ale.xandrina  Blackwood,  from 
her  godmother,  Victoria  R." 

Saturday,  13th. — The  day  was  pouring  wet.  I  had  a 
visit  from  a  charming  lady,  a  Miss  Florence  Loes,*  She 
has  been  thoroughly  trained  as  a  surgical  nurse,  and  did 
nurse,  and  underwent  great  fatigues  (not  to  say  danger) 
in  th«i  Franco-Prussian  War.  She  wears  the  Iron  Cross, 
and  another  order,  which  only  three  ladies  possess. 
After  nursing  twenty-two  men  through  ty|)hus  fever  be- 
fore Metz,  she  took  charge  of  the  Crown  Princess's  Am- 
bulaiu-e  at  Homburg.  She  has  been  sent  out  to  visit  the 
hospitals  in  Canaila  and  the  States  ;  and  all  anti-women- 
working  people  ougiit  to  sec  her! 

Monday,  i^th. — I  took  the  children  to  some  athletic 
sports,  and  after  luncii  we  drove  out  to  the  Cemetery. 
It  is  a  very  pretty  one,  and  the  trees  are  most  of  thcnfi 
decorated  with  a  crimson  or  a  golden  branch — the  first 
touch  of  autumn 


I.-. 


•  Now  the  wife  of  the  Rev.  Daore  CmvM,  Rector  of  Sti  George  the 

Mnrlyr,  Ilolborn,  London. 


CH.  IX 

on  party 
weather, 
e  amiise- 
niy  cliil- 
)()ked  at. 
)f  Flenry 
with  his 
ery  lloiir- 
hirly  as  I 
[)(i  proiul. 
int  to  her 
Majesty's 
y  rows  of 
ck  is  en- 
od,  from 

I  had  a 
es.*  She 
',  and  did 
,'  danger) 
on  Cross, 

possess, 
fever  l)e- 
ess's  Am- 
)  visit  the 
i-women- 

e  atlilf'tic 

"cmetcry. 

of  them 

-the  first 


George  the 


SEPT.  1873 


co.vrLArrs. 


125 


mjrws,/ay,  ryth.-K  football  match  took  place  this 
afternoon.  The  Dufferin  Ch.b  were  dressed  in  bh.Cand- 
orange  jersey.s,  caps,  a,ui  stockings;  and  the  Ji  Uattery 
(the  C.tadel  soldiers)  wore  red.  Colonel  Fletcher  played 
on  the.r  s.de.  The  soldiers  were  somewhat  rough, 1, 
one  gentleman  had  his  nose  broken.  The  DuffeHn  Club 
won, 

Saturday,  2oth.~XW  Stadacona  Hunt  met  to-dav 
and  had  as  usual,  the  w<,rst  possible  weather.  I  dro^c 
out  w.th  the  chUdren  to  see  the  meet,  and  they  were 
amused  for  a  short  t.me  watching  the  jumping;  but  we 
felt  so  cold  that  we  took  ad  ,-antage  of  a  heaty  show^.' 
as  an  excuse  for  returning  home  very  soon 

Monday  22d.-\  inspected  two  convents  this  after- 
noon, wh.ch   1).  had  visited  without  me  last  year      The 
first  was  the  '.lion   Pasteur."     The  M.sses  Carron  a  d 
some  other  young  ladies  were  there  to  ,neet  us,  and  to 
ake  cnarge  of  my  A.  D.  C.     The  inspection  was  very 
long,     t.rst   I  was  introduced  to  all  the  nuns,  i„d  spe- 
c.aliy  to  t  e  Ir.sh  ones;  and  I  saw  the  novices  and  the 
school-chddren.  who  sang  and  ^ea.i  an  address;  then  wo 
passed  to  a  large  room  where  the  penitents  were  col- 
lec  ed,  and  observed  how  they  had  given  u,.  the  pom  s 
nd  van.t.es  of  the  worl.l.  for  the  most  unbel- omingM Ir 
poss.ble.     We  looked  at  the  beautiful  embroideries  and 
at  the  useful  work  the  nuns  do;  admiral  the  chapel  a 

Havinjr  thoroughly  done  the  "  Ron  Pasteur."  we  pro- 
ceeded to  the..(;rey  Si  ,crs."  who  take  chargeWohi 
Peope  and  orphan  children.     Here  I  .sited  t'hree. 

..  prett.iy-decorated  throne,  songs,  and  a  request  from 
the  youngest  child  nrr-smf  f^-  -.  u^.h-  -r  -  . 
V.ca.re  was  my  .spokesman  on  each  occasion.     He  we^U 


126 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


ClI.  IX 


round  with  me  and  made  little  exhortations — thus  reliev- 
injij  me  of  the  necessity  of  finding  something  to  say  to 
everybody. 

Tuesday,  2j(f. — Such  a  wet  day !  We  just  managed 
to  get  out  on  the  platform  for  half  an  hour,  for  a  game 
of  very  odd  football  with  a  brick,  with  the  children,  and 
had  to  give  up  all  hopes  of  dancing  there  in  the  even- 
ing. 

We  had  a  dinner  party,  and  then  a  '*  drum  "  ;  and  as 
the  balcony  failed  us,  we  opened  our  one  passage,  and 
the  young  ladies  promenaded  up  and  down,  and  irank 
tea,  and  cracked  crackers,  and  had  supper,  and  seemed 
to  bear  the  disappt)intment  about  the  dancing  very  well. 

U'ciiiifsday,  24th. — We  had  a  bride  and  bridegroom  to 
dinner.  They  have  been  married  six  weeks,  and  are 
taking  an  immense  tour,  on  their  way  to  Japan  and 
India.  1  am  quite  surprised  at  the  small  quantity  of 
clothes  she  carries  about  for  so  extensive  a  tour,  and 
one  comprising  so  many  climates.  Two  serge  dresses, 
one  "good  "  silk,  cut  stpiare,  and  a  black  silk  skirt  with 
a  white  "  top " :  with  these,  she  has  entered  into  the 
smartest  New  York  society,  and  is  going  round  the 
world. 

Saturday,  27///.— This  was  a  most  lovely  warm  day, 
and  the  weekly  Paper  Hunt  was  a  very  gay  affair.  About 
thirty  people  were  riding,  and  nearly  twenty  carriages 
following.  We  saw  the  jumping  veiy  well,  and  the 
country  looked  (piite  beautiful  with  its  autumn-many- 
colored  hills,  the  blue  river,  and  the  gay  villages  with 
their  shining  spires  and  roofs.  The  riders  found  the  sun 
almost  too  hot. 

Wrdnrsday,  October  ist. — In  the  afternoon  I  took  the 
children  out  to  see  a  collection  of  birds  made  by  Mr. 
I.emoine.  The  trees  in  his  place  were  lovely,  the  leaves 
being  now  of  the  most  brilliant  colors — some  trees  per- 


CH.  IX 

US  rcliev- 
to  say  to 

managed 
r  a  game 
;lren,  and 
the  even- 

' ;  and  as 
sage,  and 
id  urank 
J  seemed 
:ery  well, 
groom  to 

and  are 
ipan  and 
lantity  of 
tour,  and 
!  dresses, 
;kirt  with 

into  tiie 
)und   the 

arm  day, 
r.  About 
carriages 
and  the 
nn-niany- 
iges  with 
d  the  sun 

took  the 
le  by  Mr, 
he  leaves 
.zees  per- 


OCT.  1873 


y /SUVA'S. 


127 


fectly  crimson,  and  others  orange,  with  yellow  ones  and 
dark  green  lirs  all  mixed. 

find  .t  .snowmg;  but  the  day  cleared  up,  and  after  our 
^  -nner  the  young  ladies  and  the  '.  drum  -  general  y 
danced  out  of  doors  on  the  platforuK  We  h:fd  a  e  v 
n.ce  party:  the  dancing  amused  some,  and  the  Boston 
Qunuette  Club,  wiu.  are  here  now,  brought  their  inst 
men ts  and  played  beautifully  to  us  ;  we  had  supper,  and 
people  left  after  twelve  o'clock. 

a  d  smal  snowstorm  st.ll  going  on.     This  is  rather  early 

to  begn,  wmter,  but  we  hope  to  see  the  ground  once 

more  before  it  disappears  until  May 

JW.,.,^//.      A  very  wet  day  ;  "our  intended  visit  to 

the  Indians,  and  all  the  sports  of  the  week,  postponed 
Mr.  and  Mrs  Rothc  ry  *  arrived.  He  is  the  IJritish  Com- 
m.ss.oner  who  is  to  settle  the  f.shery  pan  of  the  Wash- 

ng  on  J  reaty.     Ii,s  wife.  George  Dallas  (his  secretarv), 
and  a  young  Mr.  Russell,  are  with  him.     They  hnuhe 
with  us.  ^ 

Tur.u/ay  ////.-Fred  «-ent  off  before  breakfast  to 
ram  for  the  race  which  he  is  to  ride.  He  has  scant 
iH.pes  of  w.nnmg,  as  he  walks  a  stone  over  the  proper 
ndmg  we.ght,  and  hi.s  horse  has  just  come  off  the  gr.'ss 
In  fact,  h.s  only  chances  lie  in  the  possible  misfortune  of 
others. 

Mr.  and  Airs.  Rothery  dined  with  us,  and  we  went  to 
the  Sergeants  Dance,  where  we  opened  the  ball  with  the 
Sergeant-Major  and  his  wife. 

n'edm's,/ay,  m.~l  visited  an  asylum  for  old  women 
anc    paid  a  morning  visit  to  the  Ursuline  nuns.     The 
chddren  were  so  astonished  when  a  dozen  cheerful  ladies 


■  The  late  Mr.  Uothery.  Commissioner  for  W-eck^ 


128 


AfV  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CM.  IX 


dressed  in  black  appeared  behind  a  double  grating  to 
talk  to  us.  Basil  and  Hermic  could  not  get  over  it  at 
all,  and  Nelly  seemed  greatly  amused.  The  key  of  the 
room  into  which  we  went  was  handed  to  us  through  a 
hole  in  the  wall,  so  that  nothing  could  be  seen  but  the 
hand  that  held  it. 

Thursday,  pth. — The  weather  was  so  beautiful  that  we 
could  not  tear  ourselves  away  from  the  "  home-vie\/," 
and  remained  on  the  balcony  all  day. 

In  the  evening  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  Admiral 
HHlyard,  and  twenty-four  others  dined  with  us,  and  we 
had  a  party.  As  the  night  was  perfect,  our  guests 
danced  to  the  light  of  the  moon,  and  were  much  pleased 
with  the  entertainment.  But  it  began  badly,  for  when 
the  band  was  wanted  to  play,  it  was  discovered  that  the 
men  were  all  asleep  in  bed,  so  there  was  nothing  for  it 
but  to  drink  tea  while  we  waited  for  them  to  awake 
and  dress. 

Friday,  lotJi. — We  were  startled  this  morning  by  fif- 
teen guns, — our  guns  saluting  the  (ieneral  (O'Grady 
Haly),  who  arrived  by  the  Montreal  boat.  We  sent 
down  the  carriage,  and  an  invitation  for  him  to  stay 
with  us. 

We  have  begun  to  prepare  for  our  ball,  and  I  am  try- 
ing to  solve  tlie  difliculties  we  have  to  encounter  in 
moving  from  Quebec.  All  our  servants,  plate,  etc.,  have 
to  be  at  the  ball  on  Tuesday  night.  Then  all  has  to  be 
packed  to  start  Wednesday  afternoon ;  the  servants  are 
to  get  to  Ottawa  Thursday  evening,  and  visitors  come  on 
Saturday.     Parliament  meets  on  the  Wednesday  after. 

We  went  to  sec  the  "  Stadacona  Races."  I  took  the 
General,  1).  rode,  and  the  jockey  (Fred),  of  course,  was 
on  the  course  before.  He  wore  a  lilac  jacket  and  cap, 
w  oighed  twenty-one  pounds  t  j  much,  and  his  horse  was 
nor    *  fit."     Theie  Weic  twelve  hurdles  and  seven  brooks 


CH.  IX 


OCT.  1873 

t"   jump. 


t^il.L   AT    THE   C/TADEr. 


129 


UMKc      Th.  .'^^'^•'"•'te  •  tl.rcw  Mis  rider  at   the-  first 

'tmc.      ihe  remainmg  three  IkuI  a  ^.nn\  race  and  tin 
end  was  n,ost  excitin.   Fred  corning  t,  a  very^cnri^  se 
ond.nspiteoralihisdisadvanta^s.     ^iX^t^^i 
f  ll>.      I  he  other  races  did  not  interest  us  greatlv       t 
the  weather  was  magnificent  t'^'it'),  but 

ben^et'^'t /'''■~'T''  ''''■''''''  '"«"-^->  ^he  H  Hattery 
at  e  f'  ;  ■'''  '"^'  "'^  ''""^^'^'  -^:  «"^'  ^'Hn  1  assisted 
at  the  first  meet-ng  of  the  "Clandebove  Football  C  •' 
-a        oys   under  twelve.     There  are  twenty  n.e,  d      s 

s>t.ciaai_\,  Archie  benig  president 

wea,h„  look  did ;;::,  •■■""  ""^  """•  ^i".  '"o 

company  „e  „„a,„e  ..,  n:^^ X^:^'''  ^'""'^  "- 


! 


■  i,: 


(I 


l 


130 


M  Y  CA  NA  DIA  N  JO  UAWA  L. 


CH.  rx 


wliicli  was  finislicd  oil'  witli  festoons  and  roses.  It  looked 
very  lij^^ht  and  pretty.  There  was  a  heavy  shower  at  si.x 
o'clock,  and  tlien  it  cleared,  and  everythinjr  went  off 
well.  The  platform  was  so  popular  that  it  ended  in  our 
havinj(  almost  too  much  room  in  the  ball-room.  'I'he  sup- 
per, too,  Mr.  I'attisson  manajrcd  very  well.  The  rcjom 
only  held  si.vty,  and  we  were  330;  hut  there  was  no 
crush,  and  the  relays  were  kept  (juite  distinct,  and  each 
sat  down  comfortably.  The  guests  stayed  till  2.30,  hav- 
injr  begun  to  dance  soon  after  nine. 

Wciinculiiy,  ijt/i. — We  took  a  farewell  walk  on  the 
beautiful  platform  before  going  down  to  the  boat,  where 
we  found  many  of  our  friends  waiting  to  say  good-by. 
The  Lieutenant-Governor  paid  me  a  state  visit  at  the 
Citadel. 

Montreal,  Thursday,  i6th. — We  had  a  comfortable  pas- 
sage to  Montreal,  and  were  all  glad  of  a  good  long  night 
on  board  the  boat.  To-day  D.  was  kept  extremely  busy 
seeing  different  people.  We  managed  between  two  in- 
terviews to  get  a  little  walk  in  the  streets,  and  at  one 
o'clock,  he  being  unable  to  come,  I  went  to  the  Geologi- 
cal Museum,  and  was  shown  part  of  the  collection  of 
fossils  by  Professor  Dawson,  which  I  enjoyed  very  much. 
After  lunch  we  had  to  start  off  immediately  to  take  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Rothery  over  the  "  Mont  Ste.  Marie  "  convent. 
The  nuns  had  only  two  days'  notice  of  our  intention, 
but  every  preparation  had  been  made,  except  white 
gowns  for  the  girls,  so  they  were  in  black. 

After  we  had  gone  over  the  house  accompanied  by 
the  Sisters,  the  Bishop  of  Montreal  (an  old  man,  with 
long,  white  hair),  anil  the  Archbishop  of  St.  Boniface 
(Manitoba),  we  were  shown  into  the  sallc  dc  rt'ccptwi}, 
where  all  the  young  ladies  were  assembled.  Here  we  had 
music,  and  a  little  piece  acted  by  the  "  Muses  "  and  the 
"  Graces,"  each  stating  the  reasons  why  she  was  specially 


\ 


\m 


I 


li 


CH.  rx 

It  looked 
wer  at  six 

went  off 
led  ill  our 

Tlie  sup- 
I'he  room 
ro  was  no 
and  each 
2.30,  hav- 

Ik  on  the 

)at,  where 

good-by. 

ut  at  the 

table  pas- 
ong  night 
nely  busy 
1  two  in- 
iid  at  one 

Geologi- 
lection  of 
;ry  much. 

take  Mr. 

convent, 
intention, 
jpt  white 

anied  by 

lan,  with 

Boniface 

ri'cepiioiiy 

-e  we  had 

and  the 

specially 


ocr.  1873 


OTTAWA. 


131 


M 


privileged    to  present   the   address  to    Flis    Excellency. 
1  h.s  had  of  course  been  composed  for  the  occasion 

a  1  the  chddreu  well,  and  the  house  looking  so  nice 
Many  nnprovements  have  been  made,  and  our  princi,.  i 
pas  gcs  have  had  new  crimson  carpets,  and  white  pa  nt 
on  the  doors  and  wails;  so  they  look  very  gav  and  smart 
After  al  our  travels,  home  looks  very  comfortable  and 
we  should  be  very  happy  but  for  political  anxieties 

mission  "^  '''""''  ^"  '"''""  ^^-  ^'''^  '"'''"'■^  "^  ^^^  <^°"^- 

_  Saturday,  iSth.-l  was  busy  all  <lav  getting  the  draw- 
;ng-roomto  look  Mived-in."  The  Rothervs  arrived  m 
the  evenmg.      The  weather  was  wet  and  bad 

Wednesday,  22d.-Y0.mgh,  we  had  the  Ministerial 
banquet,  and  were  thirty  at  dinner.  The  only  missing 
Mnusters  were  Dr.  Robitaille  and  Mr   Tilly 

rW,,^.    23d -\X^    dress'^d     for    the    ''opening" 
before  lunch-low  gowns,  feathers  and  diamonds,  uni- 
forms or  evening  coats-and  at  3.30  set  off  in  carriages- 
Mr.  and  Mr..  Rothery.  Mr.  Pattisson  and  I  in  one;  iLy 
Harriet  Hetcher,  my  three  children,  etc.,  etc..  in  others 
and  the  Governor-General  in  a  carriage-and-four  behind 
us      He   opened  a  bridge  on   his  way,  which  is  to   be 
called  the  Dufferin  Bridge,  and  then  came  on.  and  entered 
the   House  with  a   very   brilliant   staff-for  he  had  this 
year  a  number  of  officers  and  friends  in  uniforms  accom- 
panying lum.     The  Senate  Chamber  was  full;  numbers 
of  Iad.es  on  the  floor,  and  crowds  of  people  i„  the  gal- 
leries.    I),  read  the  sj^eech  in  French  and  in  English 

J^ruiay  24th.-Kt  last  we  have  a  lovely  day.  1  took 
Mrs.  kothery,  Mr.  Brodrick,  and  Mr.  Russell  to  see  the 
C  haud.ere  Falls,  and  we  also  went  over  a  lucifer-match 
manufactory. 

tiaturday,  2sth.~l  gave  the  prizes  for  some  athletic 


'r*^?i6R«!«ri»^gw*«;«' 


n  i' 


11  ^1    '  ! 


132 


MY  CANADIAN^  JOURNAL. 


en.  IX 


sports.  Mr.  Jirodnck  and  Mr.  Rothery  went,  to  a  Minis- 
terial dinner,  and  brought  lis  home  much  news.  Lord 
Roseber-  (who  came  to  us  to-day)  dined  with  the  Oppo- 
sition ;  I.  It,  althoujrh  they  sat  till  twelve,  they  never 
mentioned  the  great  fight  which  is  coming  off  on  Mon- 
day, and  about  which  they  were  all  thinking,  but  talked 
instead  of  Shakespeare  and  the  musical  glasses.  The 
Archbishop  of  Manitoba  (Riel  s  protector)  dined  with 
us. 

Monday,  27th.— Y\\it  great  debate  began;  but  I  did 
not  go  to  the  House,  and  I),  and  I  had  Rideau  to  our- 
selves. 

Tuesday,  2Sih.—\  went  to  the  House  to-day,  and  re- 
mained till  II  P.M.  I  heard  Sir  Francis  Hincks,*  Mr. 
Macdonald,  of  Tictou  (who  is  a  very  good  speaker,  but 
untrained),  and  a  Mr.  {;ias.s.t  It  is  supposed  that'  Mr. 
Blake  J  and  Sir  John  Macdonald  *  are  waiting  for  each 
other. 

Wednesday  and  Thursday,  29th  and  j-o///.  —  Our 
thoughts  and  time  still  occupied  by  the  debate.  The 
first  day,  two  speakers  took  up  the  whole  time. 

Saturday,  November  ist.—'\:\\p  v.eather  is  very  wretch- 
ed, and  very  English-wintery.  It  tries  to  snow,  and 
succeeds  in  sleeting  and  being  raw  and  dull. 

I  saw  people,  for  the  first  time  since  my  return,  to- 
day;  134  visitors  came.  I  had  Lady  Harriet  and  Mrs. 
Rothery  and  the  young  men  to  help  me,  and  the  after- 
noon was  pleasant'and  like  a  party. 

Monday,  j./.— Mr.  Brodrick  left  this  morning.  We 
(ladies)  went  to  the  House  of  Commons  at  three  o'clock. 


*  Sir  Francis  Hincks,  member  for  V.nncouver,  British  Columbia. 

t  Mr.  (ilass,  member  for  London  (city),  Ontario. 

t  Mr.  K.  Blake,  member  for  South  liruce,  subsequently  Minister  of 


Justicq  in  Mr.  Mackenzie's  Cabinet,  1.S73. 


*  The  Premier. 


f 


cir.  IX 

J  a  Minis- 
kvs.  Lord 
the  Oj)po- 
ley  never 
on  Mon- 
ut  talked 
ses.  The 
ined  with 

>ut  I  did 
u   to  oLir- 

',  and  re- 
:ks,*  Mr. 
aker,  but 
that  Mr. 
for  each 

//.  —  Our 
te.     The 

y  wretch- 
low,   and 

:turn,  to- 
.nd  Mrs. 
le  after- 

ng.  We 
i  o'clock. 


lumbia. 

klinister  of 
rcmicr. 


f 


¥ 


J 


NOV.  ,873     M^CDOA',l/.Ds  CABINET  KESIGSS.  ,33 

Before  the  recess  for  dinner,  there  was  a  little  scrmimaye 
over  H.s  Excellency's  dispatches,  and  at  the  end  of  this 
we  adjourned  for  two  hours. 

At  a  quarter  to  nine  Sir  John  Macdonald  rose  and 
spoke  for  r:"e  hours,  making  a  very  fine  speech,  full  of 
power,  lively,  and  forcible  to  the  end.  He  did  not  fail 
in  the  slightest  degree  while  speaking,  but  when  he  .sat 
down  he  was  completely  exhausted,  and  his  voice  was 
quite  gone.  Mr.  Blake  got  up  after  him  .,ut  a  lu)urned 
the  debate  in  a  few  minutes,  and  will  mush  his  oeech 
to-morrow.  ' 

Tuesday,  4th.~\   did   not  hear  Mr.  JJlaK';.      IT  spoke 
for  five  hours  too. 

Wednesday,  5th.~\  drove  into  Ottawa,  intending  to 
hear  the  speeches  and  see  the  division,  but  at  the 
Office  I  was  told  that  Sir  John  was  with  the  (iovernor- 
General.  As  the  House  would  not  sit  without  him  I 
remained  in  the  carriage,  and  soon  we  saw  Colon'cl 
I'letcher  taking  Mr.  Mackenzie  to  His  Excellency  Of 
course,  we  guessed  that  he  had  been  "sent  for"-  and 
the  groups  of  two  and  three  who  stood  about  turned 
their  heads  curiously  and  nodded  in  a  knowing  way 

^Ve  took  our  places  in  the  House,  and  Sir  John  got 
up   and  briefly   announced    thnt-    th«  n  ■     . 

rpcwrn<..«  'vl  """"^^^^  that  the  Oovernment  had 
resigned.  The  announcement  was  received  in  perfect 
silence.  i<-iic(.i. 

Ho.I^'.  ^PP««ition  directly  it  was  over,  crossed  the 
House  to  their  new  desks. 

Saturday,  ^.V.-This  is  the  family  half-holiday;  so 
af  er  dinner  we  went  down  to  the  ice,  and  exerted  our- 
selves to  learn  the  Dutch  roll-mother  and  children  and 
governesses  struggling  and  tumbling  about,  but  all 
making  great  progress. 

Monday,  ^./M.-There  is  a  regular  snow.stnrm  going 
on.     ^Skating  was  out  of  the  question,  so  we  went  out 


mtmm 


\' ', 


»34 


MV  CAXADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  IX 


to  toboj^gan.     The  snow    was  soft   and    loose,  and  we 
were   nearly  choked  aiul  buried  in  it  ;    but,  of 


course. 


the  children  liked  this  very  much. 


Tuesday,  .?j///.— We  were  inveigled  down  to  th 


e  ice 


in  a  biting  cold   wind,  but  were  too  much  blown  about 
to  learn  anything. 


Monday,  Diienifwr  /s/.—]).  had  a  party  of  Scotchn 


len 


for  curling  and  lunch  (St.  Andrew's  Day),  and  we  ilrank 
the  "  (^ueen  of  Scotland's  "  hcaltii.  This  was  the  open- 
ing of  our  new  Curling  Rink.  It  is  close  to  the  Skating 
Kink,  and  the  tobogganing  hill  is  on  the  other  side;  so 
we  have  (piite  a  nest  of  amusements  there. 

Il'<d//i'sday,  jd.~A\ixs  for  the  thaw  !— our  Rink  was 
just  right,  and  now  all  the  ice,  and  all  tlie  skating,  dis- 
appears !  It  is  in  a  terrible  state— all  over  Iimips  and 
bubbles,  with  dead  leaves  frozen  into  it,  whic  h,  as  you 
know,  burn  holes  in  the  ice. 

Saturday,  <^///.— Being  the  twelve  children's  half-holi- 
day, Saturday  has  now  become  a  weekly  festival.  We 
skated  all  the  afternoon,  and  after  tea  had  a  great  re- 
hearsal of  the  children's  i)lay.  Mr.  Di.von  exhibited  a 
magic  lantern,  too,  which,  though  only  i)artially  success- 
fid,  was  received  with  shouts  of  delight. 

Afonday,  .W/.—Thermometer  i.S°  below  zero.  The 
day  looked  didl,  but  we  had  a  most  delightful  skate 
on  the  Ottawa— clear,  smooth  ice,  and  any  amoiuit  of 
space.  I  found  myself  able  to  go  more  than  a  mile  as 
fast  as  possible  on  tiie  outside  edge.  The  children  en- 
joyed it  immensely. 

Monday,  /<;f/i,—\\  went  into  Ottawa,  and  came  back 
in  time  for  a  short  skate.  In  the  evening  we  had  some 
of  tlie  new  Ministers  to  dinner.  I  am  trying  to  become 
a  (]rit,  but  I  can't  (|uite  manage  it.  It  takes  ine  as 
much  time  as  the  out.  .de  edge  backwards,  I  sat  lie- 
tween  Mr   Muckeiuie  and  Mr.  (^'artwright  :  !  like  them 


m 


t 


k 


cit.  IX 


m 


t 


I 


DEC.  1873 

both,  and  the  latter 


CHRISTMAS. 


135 


IS 


Mackenzie   is   v 


very  talkative,  and  pleasant.     Mi 


cry   straightforward   and 


Scotch,  in   accent 

lim  sat  M.  Letellier  St.  Juste,  a   French  Ca 


nice,  and  ven 


:ind  in   looks.     On    tiie  other  siile  of 


then  came   Mr.  Vale,  from   Halifax,  and  tl 


I'rinie  Minister,  Mr.  Alnion. 
large  deaf-and-dumb  insti 


nad 
II 


lan,  and 


W 


le  Ilaligonian 
c  also  had  lilt;  head  of  a 


institution  at  JJelleville,  who  is  very 
anx.ous  fur  us  and  "  family  "  i„  ,,,  ,,,„,„  „,,.,^  ,„  ^^.^.  \ 

pantomnne  done  by   his  pupils,  and  thinks  a  journey  of 
SIX  hours  absolutely  nothing  for  the  purpose. 

Fruiay,  i^th.~\\^  attended  an  amateur  performance 
m  aui  of  a  charity.  It  was  very  good  indeed.  The 
firs  part  consisted  of  <•  waxworks  "  done  bv  the  beauties 
of  Ottawa.  They  certainly  have  a  taleiu  for  /„M„/..v, 
lor  I  never  saw  anything  more  perfectlv  still  than  they 
were-although  they  were  "  on  view  "  for  nearlv  half- 
an-hour  at  a  time.  Each  one  was  wound  up  in  turn, 
and  went  through  its  performance  admirably. 

Tu,-uUn^  .V'/.-I  drove  into  Ottawa  on  a  Christmas 
shoppmg  e.xnedifion,  skated  in  the  afternoon,  and  dined 
at  si.x,  as  we  had  to  g.,  and  give  prizes  to  I'rotestant 
schools  in  Ottawa.  The  n.om  was  very  hot,  but  the 
"exercises"  went  off  w.ll.  and  200  people  had  to  be 
nont  away  for  want  of  space.  Children  read  and  sang 
I),  received  an  address,  .md  replied  to  it,  and  we  did  not 
give  the  prizes,  ns  there  was  not  time. 

W'cdimday,  ^^///.— C.nwen  and  I'red  *  arrived  this 
morning,  both  looking  very  well.  Thev  found  me  busily 
arranging  the  Christmas-tree.  C-awen  began  his  skating, 
but  at  present  he  looks  very  fall  and  shakv  on  the  ice 

ThnnJay,  ^^fM.-Tiie  church  was  beautifully  deco. 
rated  for  Christmas. 


My   l.rotli.T,.  Taptnin    (',.   Rnunt,   H^.,-!!.,..,    !.,!..  -1.    j,_. 
Gunni.,  .iM.I  Capiiun  \\  Rowan  U.imiltt.n,  A.  I).  C.  '"       "'^""" 


iHI 


I3f> 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH,  IX 


Luncli  and  a    little  skating  filled  the  aftcrii 


oon,  and 

at  five  the  children's  Christmas  really  liej,Mn.  There 
were  ten  of  thcin  under  eleven  for  Lea,  and  very  pretty 
the  table  looked,  with  their  little  fair  heads  all  round  it. 

The  tree  came  next,  and  was  a  j^^reat  success:  every 
one  seemed  to  get  what  he  wished  for,  and  the  books, 
toys,  etc.,  will  be  thoroughly  appreciated  during  the 
week's  holiday. 

Saturday,  -.7///.— This  morning  we  attended  a  perform- 
ance at  St.  Joseph's  College.  The  house  was  beauliful- 
ly  illuminated  outside,  and  we  had  songs  and  addres.ses, 
and  a  little  French  play  acted  by  the  students.  It  was  a 
good  night  for  sleighing,  and  the  drive  home  was  pleas- 
ant. 

Wednesday,  J tst.~\\ti  had  our  first  skating  party  to- 
day, and  I  was  able  to  perform  the  outside  edge  back- 
wards and  forwards  (juite  well  enough  for  puDlic  display. 
About  seventy  peojjle  came,  but  there  was  not  enough 
snow  for  tobogganing.  After  the  out'loor  amusements 
ve  danced  in  the  ball-room,  and  I  think  all  enjoyed 
themselves  very  much. 


Clt.  IX 


CHAPTER    X. 


i 


OUR    SFXOND    SKAbON    AT    OTTAWA. 

T/iurs</it\\  Janiavy  /,   /.e^^.—I).    had,   unfortunately, 
a  had   c(.ld  and   licadachf,  and  so   I  was  ohlijrt.d  to  re- 
ceive the  gentlemen  of  Ottawa  l)y  myself.     Von  leintm- 
Iter  that  they   pay   visits  to  all  their  aajuaintaiiees  on 
New  Year's  Day,  and  that  every  'idy  in  the  land  remains 
at  home  to  receive  them.      Two  hundred  and  seventy 
came   to   see  me,  jjreeteil  me,  and  passed  through  the 
drawing-room  into  the  dininjr-room  for  teaor  cliam|)aKne 
—mostly    champa^Mie!      One    very    odd    man    apjieared 
whom  I  had  nev.r  seen  before.     He  said  to  me,  "  Ah, 
very  .sorry  indeed  to  hear  -iiat  Lord  Dulferin  is  ill ;  he  is 
such  a  K'reat  fellow,  it  really  would  be  a  pity  if  anything 
were  to  happen  to  him.  .    .    .    Do  I  speak  to  Mr.  Hamil- 
ton  ?••     Fred  ^jot  him  off  into  the  dininH:-room,  where  he 
continued,  "I  knew  Mr.  Ccmway  "  (our  other  A.  D.  C, 
whose  name  was  Cloulson)  "so  well  that  I  felt  I  knew  the 
orowd.so  I  thought  I  would  come  to-day.    Sorry  His  K\.  is 
ill;  he  is  such  a  good  fellow,  always  turning  up  e\ cry- 
where.     Awful  bore  this  sort  of  thing,  but  one  is  obliged 
to  do  it." 

I  have  been  busy  the  last  few  weeks  teaching  the  chii- 
dren  to  act  a  little  play,  to  be  performed  before  an  au- 
dience this  New  Year's  Day,  so,  directly  the  last  of  mv 
visitors  had  gone,  I  rushed  to  make  final  arrangements 
on  the  stage,  to  visit  mv  patient  and  gel  him  up,  to  dress 
myself,  and  to  dress  the  fairies. 


138 


^fy  CAXALVAX  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 


Every  member  of  our  two  families*  between  the  ages 
of  twelve  years  and  eight  months  appears  either  in  the 
play  or  in  the  hiNraux  whieh  come  after  it,  and  I  only 
wish  you  were  here  to  see  how  well  they  all  do  it  and 
liow  pretty  they  look  ! 

In  the  piece  they  rei)re  ,eh.  imps  who,  clad  in  the 
gayest  att.re,  are  invisible  to  the  n.,rtal  eve  the  moment 
they  put  on  certain  bright-colored  caps,  and  visible 
agau,  directly  tliey  take  them  off.  The  fun  of  the  play 
consists  in  the  way  in  which  they  are  supposed  n,  ap- 
pear and  disappear,  i^Iaguing  the  life  out  of  a  gigantic 
mortal,  who  either  can  not  see  his  tormentors  at  all 
or  whose  frantic  attempts  to  catch  them  when  he  does' 
only  lead  him  into  the  traps  they  have  prepared  for' 
him.  ' 

My  little  troop  e-Mered  fully  into  the  spirit  of  the 
plot,  and  were  so  delighted  with  Fred's  acting  in  the 
part  of  "(irumps,"  the  troubled  mortal,  that  they  were 
realy  holding  their  sides  with  laugnter,  and  there  cer- 
tain y  was  more  nature  than  art  in  their  representations 
of   the  mischievous  imps. 

'I'he  lahh'iiNx  were  ecpially  successful,  and  though  an 
eye  wasoccasuHially  opened  during  the  "  SIee|)ing  Beauty 
n  the  Wood"  scene,  and  then  consciei.Jously  shut  up 
again  with  unnecessary  firmness— thorgh  one  infant 
preferred  to  sleep  with  his  legs  in  the  aii  ,  another 
made  an  uncalled-for  announcement  in  the  miiklle  of 
a  tabluu,  r/>vr///— the  whole  performaiue  was  most 
charming  and  successful,  and  actors,  parents,  and  audi- 
ence  were  all  e(|ually  delighted. 

SiUiinfay,  jr/.  _  The  cold  has  diminished,  and    now 
there  are  only  ten  degrees  of  frost-which  is  nothing 
One  really  does  not  feci  cold  lialf  as  much  here  as  in 


'  Ours  anil  Coionel  Fletcher's, 


■I 


en.  X 


JAN.  1874      THE   IXSTITUTIOXS  OF  OTTAWA. 


139 


Enjjland.  The  house  is  warm  throughout,  clay  aiul 
night,  so  that  one  does  not  shiver  over  one's  drcssnig, 
or  dread  vcnturini;  out  into  the  passages,  or  crowd 
round   the    fires   in   tiie  rooms,  as   one   docs  at    liome. 

And  then,   wlun    one   wishes    to  go   out,  one  knows 

thanks  to  tradition  and  to  the  thermometer  —  exactly 
wliat  ought  to  i)e  put  on,  and  one  wraps  one's -elf  up  hke 
a  mummy,  antl  drapes  one's  face  in  an  indisj)ensable  and 
most  becoming  "  cloud,"  and  thus  defies  the  wealiier. 
We  had  a  delightful  skating  party,  'i'he  ice  was  lovely, 
and  while  numbers  of  graceful  performers  danceii  over 
it,  otiier  young  men  and  maidens,  to  say  nothing  <;f 
fathers  and  mothers,  were  sliding  down  hills  in  tobog- 
gans, children  were  digging  and  burrowing  in  the  snow, 
and  nurses  and  perambulators  added  a  homely  aspect 
to  the  scene.  Vou  can't  think  how  lively  it  looked— 
like  an  ant-hill  decked  in  brilliant  colors. 

When  it  got  too  late  for  outdoor  amusements,  we 
came  in  for  tea,  and  the  young  people  danced  for  an 
hour. 

Afoiufaw  5*^'  —  I'lit-'  tiiermometer  only  5^^°  '  'I'he  most 
unheard-of  thaw,  and  the  snow  almost  entirely  gone. 
We  were,  however,  able  to  skate  about  two  miles  up 
the  Rideau-a  very  rare  chance  here.  In  the  afternoon 
I  actually  drove  on  wheels  into  Ottawa,  to  begin  a  tour 
of  inspection  of  the  Institutions  therewith  Miss  Lees. 
We  went  first  to  the  Jail,  which  we  found  comfortable 
and  well  kept;  Miss  Lees  thought  it  the  best  she  had 
seen  in  Canada.  We  next  went  on  to  the  Protestant 
Orphan  Home,  a  small  house,  with  a  stuffy  slee|)ing  and 
living  room  for  the  babies.  A  better  hoit-c  is  much 
needed. 

Tuesdaw  6th.— Wt  drove  in  a  snowstorm  to  the  Crey 
Nuns'  Convei^*,  and  were  received  at  the  "Mother 
House  "—the  order  having  about  ten  establishments  in 


■*»mi<fmmimvi.sammm» 


'iif 


li 


ll      :i 


I    ji 


140 


MV  CANADIAiX  JOURNAL. 


CII.  X 


Ottawa,  of  which  th 


mil  nit 


is  is  the  head.     I  visited  the  "  ( 


oin- 


'ty,      and    the    "  I'ostulaiits,"    and    went    intc,    the 
c  lapei,  where  the  nuns  were  singing  beautifully.     From 
tins  house  we  walked  to  the  Hospital,  and  after  it  t<,  the 
Orphanage,  and  the  Refuse  for  the  Old.    All  these  Miss 
Lees  examined  as  well   as  she  could.     J!ut  she  lit  <•.  to 
turn  up  every  sheet,  and   to  peep  into  every  con.T,  and 
tins  IS  a  Kind  of  inspection  to  which  the  good  nuns  are 
not  acuistomed.     They   like  my  perfunctory  style  much 
better,  ami  I  am  amused  when  I  go  abcnit  with  her  to 
see  her  shppi,,^.  behn,<l  the  scenes  at  most   unexpected 
•"omc-nts.  and    surpn  u)>;  everybody   !>y   her  searching 
(luestions.  * 

\Vedncsu'ay,rth.~-\\\  .„  u-h.d  the  -Grey  Nuns"  to- 
day by  visiting  their  sch.,.ul  and  an  Knglish  Orphana-^e 
Miss  Lees  is  going  to  write  a  book  about  these  things" 
so  I  need  not  record  details. 

1-ast  night  we  kept  Twelfth  Night  by  practicing  the 
"Boston  Dip  "and  Badminton. 

T/uns.hn^St/,.~-n^^  weather  is  despairing.  It  will 
thau-,  and  even  condescends  to  rain,  which  in  a  C\,nadian 
January  .s  mean  !  Think  of  the  ground  being  visible' 
and  nw  skating!  and  umbrellas  up!  and  driving  on 
wiieeis ! 

There  was,  however,  a  sight  to-day  which  I  am  glad 
|;'  ''aye  seen.  After  the  rain  it  fro.,  hard  for  a  short 
'-"H'.  leaving  ropes  of  luautiful  clear  ice  hanging  from 
t  "•  telegraph-wires.  while  the  trees  seemed  to  be  the 
.IccoratuMKs  of  a  fairy  play.  Words  really  do  fail  to  de- 
scribe the  beauty  of  o„r  woods  while  this  "ice-storm" 
contmues.     There  is  a  transparent  sheath  round  every 

InTl'l  ,  nV'"'  ''^■''^'  particularly  pretty,  with  its 
s.na  I  and  well-known  rods  all  rased  in  clearest  crystal. 
^^•'"I^'  '"  tlu.  .listance  the  trees  seem  to  be  made  of  silve^ 
with  (la/./ling  jewels  on  every  bran,-!,.     It  reminds  mc  of 


JAN.   1874 


COXCERT. 


141 


M^  story  of  the  twelve  princesses  wl,„  used  to  disappear 
"t  n.glu,  and  uere,  after  n.uch  searelH^K^  discovered  by 
".e  owner  of  an  nnisil.le  cloak  to  fre.,uent  a  garden 
whose  trees  were  covered  with   precious  stones.      I  ,ke 

e    ,nv.sd>le    sold.er,    I    can    not    resist    break,n,    o, 

-chesand   takmg  them  home  ;   but,  unUke  h.s  mv 
diamonds  melt.  - 

Jf">-^'^y,  /cV/,.-The  skating  party,  which  ha.I  been 
rostponed  on  account  of  the  thaw,  took  place  to-dav,  bu 
resolved  .tself  nuo  an  nuloor  party.     The  voun-.  ia     ! 
came  .n  extra  smart  attire,  feeling  that  the^had  ml    g 

b  .me  of   them.    I    regret    to  say,  evidently  rejoiced    in 

he-  bad  weather  .     After   the  dancing  the  children  per- 

forn,ed  the.r  little  play  and  taNcau..  again  with  g  eat 

success.  K'^^'iL 

SaturJay,  /////-This  was  a  most  lovely  clay  for  our 
skatmg  party,  so  warm  (about  .0°  below  freezing-point) 
the  tobogganing  hill  in  perfect  condith.n,  and  the  ice 
good.  I  skated  the  whole  time,  only  sf.pping  occasion- 
ally to  watch  the  toboggans  come  down  :  once  Fred  was 
left  behind  in  the  michlle  (.f  the  hill,  and  rolled  to  the 
bottom;  another  time,  three  i^assengers  remained  in  the 
snow,  whde  the  fourth  sailed  on  to  the  bottom  of  the 
slide. 

Tuesday,  .V"//'— Thermometer  30°  below  zero  during 
the  p.ight— about  zero  during  the  day.  We  skated  a  lit- 
tie.  but  there  was  a  good  deal  of  snow  on  the  ice  \\. 
five  o'clock  the  children  were  all  readv  in  their  fairy 
dresses  to  act  their  play  to  about  f.ftv  of  their  contem- 
poraries. After  the  performance  they  had  tea,  and  then 
games  and  dancing  till  eight.  The  guests  were  many  of 
them  very  pretty,  and  all  very  well  dressed 


U'i'i/it,'s,/,i\\  iSth. U'e  have  !e 


concert  in  aid  of  our  little  church,  and  the 


nt  iiiir  bali-ronm  for  A 


morning  was 


iim 


mm  mmr^i  »i»  i  hubbbI 


142 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 


I'  1 


u 


occupied  in  placing  the  three  hundred  chairs,  and  in  pre- 
parinj;  the  staj;e. 

Tiic  first  part  of  the  programme  consisted  of  vocal 
music  i)y  amateurs.  Then  "Rosa  d'Erina  "  sang  four 
songs  capitally.  Three  very  pretty  tableaux  closed  llie 
entertainment:  Ihe  Death  of  Cleopatra;  the  Expulsion 
of  Hagar;  and  a  group  of  flower-girls,  Nelly  being  one 
of  them,  ("leopatra  was  very  handsome,  and  was  beau- 
tifully dressed.  1  think  they  will  have  cleared  fifty 
pounds. 

Saturday,  jTst. — Saturday  brings  its  usual  skating 
party.  The  day  was  very  cold,  and  we  cut  short  the 
outiloor  amusements,  and  had  a  very  successful  cotillon 
indoors. 

Mr.  Mackenzie,  the  Prime  Minister,  arrived.  At  the 
station  he  received  a  note  from  D.  asking  him  to  come 
out  to  us,  which  he  did  immediately,  and  stayed  for  din- 
ner. On  returning  to  Ottawa  he  found  he  hail  missed 
an  ovation,  which  had  been  prepared  for  him  after  his 
very  successful  elections.  I  believe  his  majority  will  be 
about  eighty. 

Montreal :  Monday,  February  2d. — We  left  for  Mont- 
real, and  had  a  long  day  in  the  train,  but  with  books, 
and  short  naps,  we  got  through  it  very  well. 

Tuesday,  jr/.— Soon  after  breakfast,  we  went  up  to 
the  Rink,  the  two  Misses  IJethune  and  ourselves  being 
the  only  privileged  persons,  as  it  is  shut  to  the  public  on 
account  of  the  fancy-dress  ball  which  is  to  take  place 
there  to-night;  we  had  i)lenty  of  room,  splendid  ice,  and 
a  most  delightful  skate. 

At  eight  o'clock  we  went  back  there  for  the  ball,  and 
took  our  places  on  a  raised  dais  at  one  end  of  a  great 
building  like  Westminster  Hall,  with  an  architectural 
roof  and  ornamented  rafters,  its  shiny  ice  floor  illumi- 
nated  by    a   thousand    lights.      As   sooii   us   the   band 


CH.  X 


FEU.  1S74 


MONTREAL. 


143 


changed  from  "  God  save  the  (^uecn  "  into  some  lively 
s  ™n,  we  sa^.^  from  the  far  end,  gay  fancy-dressed 
h^'ures  ghdn,g  hand-n,-hand  down  the  Ke,  and  passin.. 
-  ,n  coupler  till  at  last  the  whole  space  was  covered 

Red  R.d.ng. Hoods    etc.     J).  skated  in  plau>  clothe.'; 
only  looked  on  and  enjoyed  the  scene 

J^jt'T'"''  ■''"-''■    --ted    the    High    School,  and 
made  a  Latui  oration  there. 

Tuesday,  loth.-W^    had  a    band    at    the    Rink    this 
n.orn.ng.  and  skated  to  music.     We  danced  the  lance;: 

ualt^ed  and  some  "outside-edged"  to  the  "  lilue  Dan- 

I  must  tell  you  the  names  of  some  of  our  f.gures 
though  1  fear  they  won't  convev  much  to  you  We  e^^' 
c:ute  the  "Rose,"  the  "Shamrock,"  and  the  "Thistle"." 
he  Ransom  '  the  "  Lily,"  the  "  Snail,"  the  "  Serpent," 
a  Cham  of  "  e.ghts,"  etc.,  etc.  I  wonder  if  ever  you  will 
sec  a  performance  ? 

//v.//,,..,/,,,.  /,//,_,Ve  took  the  .r.iil  by  surprise  this 
mc  „„«,  and  ,n»pecte<i  i,.  The  won.o's  ,lcp..r„„e„.  is 
m  nsat.sfactory  but  as  a  new  female  prison  is  l,ei„,. 
.  t  le  can  l,e  sa.d.  We  foun.i  live  women  sleeping" 
"  .  .my  ,x.M.  a„,l  ,l,ree  in  a  bed  ;  and  we  saw  prisoners 
wah  u  rl.papers  ,•„„]  ornamental  ribb.ms,  and  one  with 
her  ha,r  mnch  dressed,  an.l  with  eurls  „,m,me,l  ,1  v 
..,K.n  her  forehead.     The  ,nen  were  n.uch  better  car^d 

After  dinner   Fred   Wirrl    Wr-  tu  ^ 

..      .  ,  ,  »>ar(i,   Mr.   I  hompson,  D   an(    I 

"-en    to  see  the  games  a.  the  Rink,  which  look  d  v  ry 

son,:',   m  irr::™ :- r."'""»  t  "-  '--■ "-" 

Unrr  I  ■      ■  exeitrng  and    amusing.      The 

barrel.races  went  off  with  ■•   .,t  spirit,  „„d  the  buys,  in 


U  1 


144 


A/V  CANADlA.y  JOURXAL. 


CH.  X 


i-M 


all  stajres  of  creeping  thnu'/h  br.t''V.aless  barrels,  roll- 
ing and  struggling  about,  iookcci  iike  strange  shell-fish. 
Mercifully,  none  were  hnrt,  for  it  must  be  a  dangerous 
game.     1  gave  away  the  prizes  afterwards. 

I  have  been  elected  a  member  of  the  Rink,  and  am 
the  only  lady  who  holds  that  proud  ptjsition.  •  '  ',0, 
1  believe,  the  first  wife  of  a  Governor-General  who  has 
ever  skated  here. 

Thiirsilay,  12th.— \).  and  1  left  early,  and  were  "seen 
off"  by  a  guard  of  honor  composed  of  the  students  at 
Magill  College  -a  fine-looking  rifie  regiment.  We  had 
Mr.  i5ridge  ;'  car,  and  traveled  in  great  comfort.  We 
found  it  v<',  3  cold  at  Ottawa.  All  the  children  in  differ- 
ent stages  of  old. 

Ottiucui :  Tuesday,  jyth. — There  was  a  very  exciting 
game  in  the  Curling  Rink  between  1).  and  Mr.  Cordon, 
a  Presbyterian  minister.  They  play  for  the  Club  prize, 
and  whoever  wins  to-day  has  to  play  another  member, 
and  so  on,  till  the  last  man  remaining  gains  "  the  horns." 
This  game  was  very  close,  "twelve  all,"  and  the  ne.xt 
shot  must  decide  the  winner.  We  all  came  in  to  watch 
the  last  strokes,  and  IJ.  got  "  two,"  and  so  won,  and  has 
a  new  antagonist  to  encounter. 

ThinsJay,  igth. — We  had  a  great  expedition  to-day. 
Our  party  filled  two  sleighs,  and  we  start.  1  at  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  anu  Irove  ihree  mi  <  along,  or 
rather  on,  the  Gatineau  river,  and  then  eighteen  miles 
throiigh  the  "  bush,"  enjoying  \.\\<^  winter  scenery.  It  was 
a  prettier  diive  than  I  had  e.\pected,  l)eing  :u<>re  open, 
less  shut  up  in  wood,  and  the  horizon  more  varied  than  it 
usually  is  here.  We  saw  the  Gatineau  rapid'  ;  ushing 
along  black-looking  through  the  snow;  -''so  something 
of  the  lumber-trade,  for  we  met  all  the  ;  >  s'-ighs  full 
of  wood  coming  to  market.  As  they  re  '  (led,  w-e 
had  10  make  way  for  Iheni,  and  on  twu  occasions  we 


i 


%   ...  .-.^" 


I 


CH.  X 


FEB.  1874 


A    WINTER'S  DRIVE. 


145 


met  ,n  most  awkward  places,  when  we  all  luul  to  ^^,  out 
and  hft  our  sle,,d,  sideways  on  to  the  hank,  and  once  we' 
had  to  take  out  the  horses.  Another  tinie  we  were  at 
le  top  of  a  hdl.  and  our  foe  wanted  us  to  back  down  it 
We  asked  .f  he  couid  not  back,  but  he  exclaimed  indur- 
nantly,  "  Why,  there  are  enough  of  you  there  to  l.ft 
that  cutter  of  yours  right  over  the  mountain  "-this  of 
the  great  famdy  sleigh  ! 

We  arrived  at  last  at  the  house  of  a  farmer,  the 
-wner  of  a  cave,  which  cave  was  the  end  and  object  of 
onr  expedition.  Here  we  lunched,  and  ,  n.  guided  hv 
he  farmer,  we  proceeded  on  our  wav  two  nules  alon-^  a 
lumber  .sn.-w  road,  very  narrow  and  bumpv.  We  kit  The 
carnages  on  a  lake,  and  clnnbcd  up  a  h.ll  to  the  nu.uth 
of  the  cave,  where  we  took  (,ff  our  fur  cloak.s,  and,  each 
takmg  a  lighted  can.lle,  entered  the  cave 

After  examining  a  part  of  it,  which  I  mav  call  the 
hall  and  ante-room  of  this  subterranean  mansion,  we 
proceeded  .hands  and  knees  through  a  very  low  pas! 
sage  to  the  drawing-room.  We  ladies  had 'grea  S- 
cjdty  wth  ou,  :>ettic<,ats.  especially  when  in  this  m- 
bled-up  posu.on  we  .,ad  to  cross  a  pool  of  water  o  . 
narrow  plank  and  ..  g.eatly  relieved  when  we  were 
able  to  stretch  ourseh.  s  upright  again.     New  peri  s  Jm 

1      1    1  "'"i-ii,   in  me    darkness,  ai)neared  fn 

lead  down  to  the  mi.ldle  of  the  earth,  r  t  1  vve  ve  v 
naturally  observed  to  them,  we  had  no,  dri'ven  twel 
nules,  and  crawled  <.n  hands  an.l  knees  to  the  spot  to 
be  deterred  by  a  small  difficulty  ;      ,  down  we  we  t    ^ 

lur^Orr^ 'T  7'"^  '' ^''^ '--"-^  "^  «^^"n^ 
s.on.  Of  course  the  place  requires  a  geologist's  eve  to 
appreciate  it  thorouLrh'v  If  ic  .,,,,,.  ,,r  ^^  ^^.^^^o 
even  iffpm.u  f      1       'i     •       ■   "■  "   "^-"  no;  i  won't 

cvtn  attempt  to  describe  its  origin 

n 


I 


"i-iMM«>WA'tm,W.MW','»iW'J-'M't»ilBMtM 


146 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


cir.  X 


We  came  out  from  our  crawlinjr  very  dirty  indeed, 
and,  returning  to  our  carriages,  drove  homeward.     Our 
slei-h  was  fust,  and  we  had  just  descended  a  very  steep 
hill   when  we  heard  a  noise,  ,nul  looking  i)ack  saw  the 
second  sleigh  stranded    in    the  middle  of  the  road,  its 
horses  galloping  madly  towards  us.    ( )ur  footman  rushed 
m  front  of  them,  and  caught  hold  of  their  bridles  just 
as  they  were  upon   us;  he   was    knocked  down  between 
them,  but   was  not  hurt.     The  gentlemen  all   got  into 
the  broken  sleigh,  and  fmally  arrived  safe  home,  though 
they   were   run    away   with    at    every    hill   on    the   way 
back. 

It  snowed  most  of  the  day,  and  at  the  end  of  our 
drive  we  looked  ideal  Canadians. 

Moinhiy,  .^j,/.-_There  was  a  very  exciting  curling 
match  to-day  between  U.  and  Hutchison  for  "the 
horns." 

1).  won  by  si.x  ]5oints,  and  will  now  have  to  encounter 
another  player.  The  boys  made  some  calculations 
afterwards,  in  which  they  proved  that  each  i)layer  had 
run  eight  miles,  had  thrown  f(Kir-and-a-half  tons  forty 
yards,  and  had  swept  out  the  Parliament  Buildings- 
pretty  .severe  labor  for  one  game ! 

Tuesday,  s^f/i.—Thii  "  Fred's  --for  we  have  no  less 
than  five  of  that  name  in  our  household— played  a 
match,  the  winner  to  be  the  "representative  member" 
of  the  new  "Viceregal  Curling  Club."  Brother  Fred 
won  it. 

He  and  Colonel  Fletcher  dined  with  the  Ministers 
"in  honor"  of  the  Dominion  Board  of  Trade,  and  Fred 
returned  thanks  for  the  ladies. 

Safurdiy,  .^W/.— Colonel  Strange,  from  Quebec,  and 
Mr.  Plumb,  M.  I>.  for  Niagara,  dined  with  us,  and  we 
had  an  "electric  evening."  I  don't  suppose  you  could 
have  one  at  home  :  but  here  by  rubbing  our  feet  on  the 


1 


If 


I 


cir.  X 


MARCH  1874      KUiCTRlCAL    EXPERIMENTS. 

cl  .cc  a  spark,  and  from  any  hot  metal,  such  as  the    ire- 
place,  we  jret  (juite  a  shock. 

Mr.  I'hunb  showed  us  a  very  curious  thin.^  We 
wen  uuo  a  dark  room,  and  rubbed  the  ins.deof  the  b-  k 
of  a  book  wuh  a  fur  glove,  and  n^stantly  the  gilt  u  n 
on  the  outside  was  illunnnated  by  sp.irks    s'      ,nt  tl" 

dajtmie.     He  discovered  this  accidentally  by  passiniri 
P.ece  of  fur  round  h,s  hat,  when  the  maker's  ^       '  „ 
peared  msale  u.  letters  of  light.     Then  we  tried  to    i.:, 
l>e  gas,  and  I  had  the   satisfaction  of  succeeding  three 
Umes  myself      I  hdd  a  p.ece  of  wire,  or  a  n::!^  i    '  ^ 
nd    ruboed   my  feet  on  the  carpet,  and   touched  thi 
>u.nc    ,  a    spark    was   emitte<l,   and    the   gas   instantly 
i^la-cl  up.     The  children  are  extremely  fond  of  chrr' 
mg  .U  some  unsuspecting  victim  with  a  linger  or  a  ^X 
whKh   instantly  emits  a  perfect  flash  of  lightning.     One 
day  I  bmught  the  baby  down  to  the  drawing-n>om.  and 
Fred  (who  had  just  been  rubbing  his  feet  preparatory  to 
trying  an  electric  experiment)  kissed  her  and  gave  her 
such  a  shock  that  she  cried  with  fright. 

Wednesday,  March  ^//^-The  ice  still  demoralised 
and  every  one  grumbling.  ISoth  grown-up  people  and 
children  find  "  walking  on  the  boards  "  a  sad  exchange 
tor  skating,  tobogganing,  and  curling. 

Friday,  ^///.-The  Ottawa  Curling  Club  came  and 
played  on  our  Rink  for  His  Excellency's  medal  Thev 
•  made  a  good  score,  and  have  hopes  of  winning  it  Mr 
f'.Imour  and  Mr.  Mackenzie  spent  the  afternoon  here 
and  curled  with  I).  The  Premier  brightened  up  very 
much  during  the  "roarin"  game." 

Saturday,  yth.-lx.  poured,  and  the  beginning  of  the 
afternoon  party  was  trying.  Skating  was  out  of  the 
question,  and  a  few  ladies  dropped  in  alone  ;  I  was  in 


!■■■ 


I 


148 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL, 


CH.  X 


despair,  but  at  last  the  tv;o  necessaries— men  and  music 
—arrived,  and  we  had  a  very  nice  little  dance  and  cotil- 
lon. Hermie  and  Basil  contribute  ^^reatly  to  the  amuse- 
ment of  the  company.  She  and  Hasil  talk  to  every  one, 
and  are  always  in  such  high  spirits,  that  the  lookers-on 
like  havinjj  them  to  play  with. 

Nowell  (D.'s  valet)  won  the  cup,  and  I  presented  it 
to  him  ;  it  is  to  have  his  name,  and  "  Presented  to  the 
Vicerejjjal  Curling  c:hib,"  etc.,  engraved  on  it. 

Tuesday,  lotli. — There  was  tremendous  excitement  in 
the  Curling  Rink  to-day— I).  l)laying  another  opjjonent, 
Mr.  Russell,  for  "  the  horns."  'J'he  game  was  very  in- 
teresting. 'I'hey  had  to  make  twenty-one  points,  and 
five  times  durnig  the  course  of  the  game  they  were  ties, 
I),  winning  finally  by  one— a  very  honorable  and  unex- 
pected victory,  as  Mr.  Rus.sell  is  the  "skip  "  of  the  Ot- 
tawa Club. 

Tut-sday,  ^y///.— There  was  beautiful  tobogganing  to- 
day. The  children  went  down  in  every  sort  of  way, 
double  and  single,  standing,  sitting,  and  lying.  Once 
they  tied  four  toboggans  together,  which  looked  like  a 
raft  covered  with  people— a  rescue  from  shipwreck. 

Friday,  s-^l/i.—h  day  of  much  ceremony.  Diamonds, 
lappets,  and  feathers  at  two  o'clock,  when  all  drove  to 
the  Parliament  Ihuldings,  the  C.overnor-Cleneral  in  car- 
riage-and-four,  and  I  in  a  (|uiet  brougham,  to  a  private 
entrance.  I  went  into  the  .Senate  Chamber,  which  [ 
found  full  of  ga\  ladies,  and  soon  we  heard  the  gunr. 
which  aimounred  His  Ivxcellency's  arrival.  We  all  stood 
up  to  receive  him,  as  he  came  in  jireceded  by  his  .Staff. 
He  sent  for  the  Commons,  and  the  new  Speaker  made  a 
little  speech,  and  the  President  of  the  Senate  replied  to 
it.  Then  T).  rc.ul  the  speech,  first  in  Kngiish,  then  in 
J'rench,  and  we  departed  as  we  came. 

On  my  return  I  dolleU  my  finery  until  after  dinner, 


I 


CH.  X 


APRIt  1874 


ES'GLISH    VISITORS. 


149 


When  I  dressed  up  again,  and  we  returned  to  the  Senate 
Chamber  to  hold  a  Drawing-room;  it  went  oil  very  well 
and  was  quite  a  brilliant  affair.  ' 

Satimiay,  28th.  — \Sq  turned  out  of  the  drawmg- 
room  to-day,  to  have  it  arranged  as  a  second  supper- 
room. 

The  conservatory  was  hung  with  Chinese  lanterns 
and  everything  that  was  possible  done  to  embellish  the 
rooms  for  an  evening-party. 

There  was  a  band,  tabhaux,  and  some  singing  in  the 
drawnig-room,  supper  m  two  rooms,  and  I  believe  people 
enjoyed  themselves. 

Sumh\\  j^(/t.—\\<i  had  such  a  nice  walk  on  the  Ot- 
tawa.  The  !)anks  were  lovely,  clothed  in  icicles,  and  ice- 
grottoes,  into  which  we  got,  had  been  formed  in  places. 
'I'hcy  were  supported  by  enormous  pillars  of  ice,  and  a 
frnige  of  large  icicles  shut  us  in. 

Ti,cs,/ayy3ist.~\  went  into  the  House,  expecting  to 
see  Kiel  take  his  seat.  There  was  great  excitement  out- 
side, but  he  did  nut  appear.  We  iieard  a  very  amusing 
debate  a!)oul  abolishing  the  sale  of  spirits  within  the 
precincts  of  Parliament.  We  were  very  busy  at  home 
preparm-  everything  for  a  full-dress  rehearsal  of  a 
selection  from  the  opera  of  "  Semiramide  -  and  the  little 
play  of  •'  One  Hour,"  in  which  I  myself  take  part.  The 
rehearsal  was  successful,  the  servants  making  ui)  an 
audience. 

Thunday,  3d  A/>n7.~m,  Charles  Kingsley*and  his 
daughter  are  staving  with  us,  and  we  took  them  over  the 
Houses  of  i'arliament.  and  had  Si.-  John  and  l.ady  Mac- 
donald  (me  day,  and   Mr.  and   Mrs,   Mackenzie  anotlier 
to  meet  them  at  dinner.  ' 


•The    Into    Rev.    C!mr!o«   Kin^Kk-y,  .uihnr  of  Wchlw.nni   ISuJ 
Hypatm,  etc. 


''fifif'iiisimvmmmm 


150 


MV  CAXADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  X 


i 


\m\ 


Saturday,  4th.-~\\^  looked  on  at  curling  to-day  and 
saw  I),  beat  the  "champion,"  Mr.  Gilmour,  twice  '  Dr 
(Jrant  dined  with  us,  and  he  and  Mr.  Kingsley  were  very 
hai)])y  over  j,reoI()gical  subjects. 

Juistcr  Sunday,  j///.-There  was  a  great  congregation, 
and  we  had  an  excellent  sermon  from  Mr.  Kingsley 
ai.propriate  to  the  day.  lie  does  not  stamn.er  at  all  i,,' 
preachmg.  The  gentlemen  say  that  in  the  smoking-room 
he  IS  most  amusing;  but  he  seems  shy,  and  is  therefore 
less  brilliant,  in  general  society. 

Tuesday,  rth.-\).    walked  'into    Ottawa,   and    in   the 
street  met  Mr.   Laurence  ()lii)hant,*  whom  he  asked  to 
come  to  us  at  once,  and  to  bring  his  wife.     He  is  very 
pleasant,  and  she   is  a  sweet,  pretty   little  woman,  very 
chatty.      Ihey  belong  to   a   curious  sect,  headed   by  a 
Mr.  Harris.      They  have  no  objection  to  talking  about 
>t    to    us,    but    she    tells    me    that    in    the    community 
tlicy  never  speak  of  religion,  that  they  have  no  church, 
no  services,  and  that  every  member  believes,  or,  rath- 
er,  disbelieves,   what    he    like.s.     Thcv    look    upon    Mr 
Harris  as  a  "moral   doctor,"  and  all  their  efforts  in  a 
"Kood"    direction    are    employed    in    c.uupiering   their 
own  faults  i)y  their  own  efforts— and  Mr.  Harris's  pre- 
scriptions; they  also  believe  that  their  prophet  actual- 
ly suffers  physical  pain  when  his  followers  offend,  ami 
that   they   know   when    they  do   wrong   themselves  by 
a    peculiar    sensati(m    in    tiie    throat.      Thev   consider 
themselves  bound   to  spend  all  they  have;  not  merely 
to   give    to    charitable    instituli«Mis,    but    to    distribute 
It  personally.     They  live  in  a  district  where  they  have 
farms,  and   the  members  all   help  each  other  as  they 
can. 


•  The  Intp  I.jnircnte  t)lii,|,.itii,  .uitlior  of  Tlu-  riicadilly  Papers 
etc.  ' 


en.  X 


MAY  1874  AMATEUR    THEATRICALS. 


151 


they 


FnJiiy,  iot/i.—\).  curled,  aiui  nearly  killed  Mr.  Oli- 
phaiit  with  the  e.xertion.  I  like  both  her  and  him  very 
much  ;  and  certainly  their  faith  in  what  they  do  beUeve, 
and  their  conscientious  performance  of  the  same,  are 
wonderful. 

Fru/,n',  /-///.—The  jrrcat  ball  jriven  by  the  citizens  of 
Ottawa  in  our  honor  took  place  to-ni^rht,  'Piie  dancinj; 
was  in  the  Senate  Chamber-a  very  handsome  room— 
and  a  new  floor  was  put  down  for  the  occasion.  1  sup- 
pose two  thousand  people  were  present,  but  there  were 
so  many  i)assaj,a's  and  i)romeiiades  that  thedancinjr  was 
not  too  crowded.  We  much  appreciated  our  hosts'  kind- 
ness and  hospitality. 

Moinhiy,  27t/i.~\\'G  were  pleased  to  see  in  the  morning 
paper  that  there  are  $900  (nearly  ^200)  over,  after  all 
the  ball  expenses  have  been  paul.  which  are  to  be  mven 
to  i;harities. 

!lWm-s,/,n;  -?y///,~In  the  eveninj,r  our  play  came  off 
and  was  a  sreat  success.  People  seem  to  listen  with  eyes 
and  ears,  and  to  be  <|uite  deliKhled.  'I'he  whole  com- 
pany was  jro<„|,  and  every  one  knew  his  or  her  part,  and 
it  went  smoothly  and  with  spirit. 

After  it  was  over  I  changed  my  dress  in  about  three 
minutes,  and  came  down  to  supper.  Stray  couples  walked 
about  the  corridors,  visited  the  conservatory,  and  hud 
what  is  called  "a  lovely  time," 

When  I  had  shaken  hands  with  the  "si.x   hundred." 

and  we  were  alone  awain.  we  had  our  supper,  of  which 

we  were  all  very  glad,  for  nctinK  makes  one  so  hunjrry  ! 

S„/un/.,y,  }f,n  j,f.-\).  and   Kred  went  (..it   huntintr, 

and  had  a  very  pleasant  run. 

The  children  tried  a  paper-chase.  Colonel  lletdier 
was  the  fox,  and  the  run  was  most  e.\citin)r.  the  '<  h<.iinds  " 
•hrieking  all  the  way,  and  hnving  some  dl-IiKhtfully  stifT 
timber  to  rlimi;. 


152 


AfV  CAA'^D/AJV  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 


;!( 


A  Parliamentary  (Imncr;  five  expected  guests  failed 
to  come,  and  left  a  great  yap  at  the  table. 

r/iurschy,  /.////.-The  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Nova 
Scotia  and  M,ss  Archibald  arrived  tr,  spend  a  fevv  days 
with  us. 

Lady  Harriet  is  expecting'  her  sister  and  uncle— a 
«:reat  excitement  in  our  small  world;  f„r,  though  our 
guests  are  numerous,  our  home-circle  is  small.  We  have 
very  pleasant  weather,  and  sit  out  a  great  deal,  enjoying 
It;  but  as  yet  there  are  no  leaves  on  the  trees,  and  no 
plants  bedded  out. 

FrUaw  j.V,— \\o  had  such  a  pleasant  day,  driving  in 
two  carriages  to  visit  Mr.  Gilmour's  place  on  the  (iati- 
neau  River,  and  to  see  his  sawmills,  etc.  Lady  Mary 
and  Mr.  Marsham.  who  arrived  on  Fritlay,  went  with  us. 
The  weather  was  line,  ami  the  river  verv  full ;  the  rapids 
were  magnili.ent,  and  it  was  very  interesting  to  see  the 
lumber  go  down  them. 

We  watched  the  trunks  of  great  trees  turning  and 
twisting  in  the  whirlpools,  passing  fr„m  one  current  to 
another,  dashing  down  waterfalls,  disappearing  in  the 
waves,  and  coming  up  again  on  the  brink  of  other  rapids 
We  saw  them  reach  a  place  where  a  number  of  men,  with 
poles  and  spikes,  stood   by  to   harpoon  and  mark   (l-e 
passing  monsters,  sending  those  stamped  with  a  "(J  "  in 
one  direction,  and  those  with  a  '•  I' "  in  another.     After 
thi.s,  a  further  rush  down  the  river  brought  the  logs  to  a 
calm  pool,  where  they  were  just  recovering  from  their 
excituig  voyage,  when  they  were  laid  hold  of  by  an  in- 
norent-Iooking  cogwheel,  up  which  they  marched  slowly 
and  surely  into  the  teeth  of  fourteen  thickset  saws,  which 
sent   them   m  pieces  on  a  further  sail,  down   a   small 
trouRh  of  water,  to  the  s.tack  yard.     In  addition  to  the 
almost  human  interest  of  this  tragic   performance,  we 
had  lovely  scenery  to  |o„k  at,  a  good  limch  to  cat,  a  nice 


ili 


MAV  1874 


THE   QUEEN'S  DlRrifDAY. 


153 


1- 


drive,  and  a  row  home  in  boats ;  so  we  enjoyed  ourselves 
miicli. 

Monday,  ^j///._The  (Jiieen's  birtlulav  I<ent  The 
morning  h.oked  bad,  but  we  dressed  ..urselves  ni.  and 
at  eleven  arrived  /n  fn.nt  of  the  Town  Hall,  where  the 
hremen  ami  engines  were  to  be  reviewed.  \Vc  lonked  at 
and  walked  round  them-the  rain  c,.min<r  ,inwn  a  little- 
listened  to  an  address,  and  then  proceeded  to  the  review- 
ground. 

The    Governor-Generars    Foot    Guards   looked   ex- 
tremely well ;  l)ut  the  weather  was  <!readful.  and  when'  I 
came  to  give  away  the  colors  ,t  poured  m  torrents,  so 
hat  the  feathers  m  my  i,onnet  stood  on  end,  and  I  h.ul 
to  lake  olt   my  veil   and   throw  it  away.     Vou  may  im- 
a^ine  my  mother's   feelings  when  I  turned  round  in  the 
"iHl.lle  of  the  deluge  and  found  that  Arehie  was  out  in 
danemg-shoes!     Wo  had  luneh  in  a  large  tent,  and  I) 
made  a  speech,  which  you  may  read  in  the  newspaper  1 
send  you.  *    ' 

IIW„rs,/,n;  ^^///.-VVe  made  an  expedition  down  the 
Slide  to-day.      D,  paddled  ins  canoe  to  the  foot  of  the 
(  haudicre  I'alls.     folond  I'leteher  rowed  there,  and  we 
took    two   carriage-loads,  with    five  ehildicn-.-.dl   in    -i 
Kreat    state   of   excitement.     \Vc    found    a   nuigniflcent 
<•'•'!)     prepared  for  us~(lags  and  green  arches  over  it  • 
and  when  we  were  all  assembled,  we  started  at  a  slow 
am!  stately  pace  on  our  journey  over  the  Slide  down  to 
the  Ottawa.     It  takes  three  waterfalls  to  reach  the  level 
of  the  river,  and  gomg  „ver  these  is  the  greatest  fun 
\\v  remain,.,!  ,.n  our  crib  for  some  time,  and  then  g,.t  on 
to  a  rait  for  tea.  which  we  drank   out  of  i.ns,  without 
milk  or  sugar;  and  we  ate  raft -made  brea.l.  whi,h  was 
excellent. 

J'n\An,  j^f/,.~\Vv  went  up  the  Khieau  in  a  carriage 
fur  ain.ut  civint  .Miles,  and  saw  the  Kails,  which  are  very 


^■^!^s^mmmsmmm& 


a^im-^. 


it 


154 


AfV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 


pretty.  Had  tea  there,  and  came  back  in  canoes,  D. 
rowing  me.  There  was  a  beautiful  sunset,  and  the  river 
was  lovely— the  scenery  much  more  English-like  and 
meadowy  than  it  usually  is  here.  There  were  some  rap- 
ids to  run,  and  we  ladies  got  out,  while  the  Colonel  and 
1).  took  their  canoes  down.  It  was  (luite  dark  when  we 
got  hdinc. 

Sati,nlay,3otfi.~i\^  it  was  a  lovely  day,  and  as  the 
mos()uil,..-s  are,  so  far,  very  harmless,  ha'd  tea  out  of 
doors.  We  carried  the  things  down  to  the  rocks,  and 
the  children  were  extremely  happy  attending  to'  the 
fire,  and  jum|)ing  about  at  the  edge  of  the  water.  'I'he 
two  families  were  present  —  ten  old  enough  for  pic- 
nics. 

Tuesday,  June  2ci.—\WQ  drove  about  twelve  miles  into 
the  country  to  the  borders  of  "  Meech's  Lake,"  a  pretty 
piece  of  water  inhabited  by  swarms  of  mos(|uitoes.  We 
drank  our  tea  in  a  cloud  of  smoke,  to  keep  off  the  tor- 
mentors, and  then  got  into  our  canoes  (which  had  been 
brought  here  in  a  cart)  and  explored  the  Lake  "  We  " 
means  the  Fletchers,  Lady  ALiry  Marshara,  I).,  and  my- 
self.  ^ 

Our  expedition  did  not  end  quite  pleasantly.     It  had 
been  arranged  that  we  were  to  get  into  a  boat  half-way 
and  row  home.     The  night  was  very  dark,  and  the  (  ur- 
rent  tremendou.s.     Presently  we  came  up  against  a  beam 
of  wood   stretched   across  the  rushing  river,  which  we 
knew  had  an  opening  in  it  through  which  boats  could 
pass;  but  in  the  dark  we  could  not  find  the  place.     The 
Colonel,  who  was  rowing  with  I).,  said  the  ladies  would 
have  to  get  out,  and  that  the  boat  must  be  lifted  over 
the  bar.    ( )h.  it  was  disagreeable  !    We  knelt  on  the  nar- 
n.w  plank,  with  the  rapid  stream  swirling  under  it,  and 
I  don't  think  I  could  have  done  it  but  for  a  fortu'nate 
peg  in  my  bit  of  plank  by  which  1  held  on,  and  which 


i 


"^ 


CH.  X 


i 


JUNE  1874 


EXCURSIONS. 


155 


gave  me  a  certain  sense  of  security.  Lady  Mary  was  so 
brave  :  she  made  no  fuss  at  all.  When  the  boat  had  been 
drajr^a-d  over  the  beam  we  got  into  it  again  ;  hut  we  had 
several  more  alarms  about  steamers,  rafts,  etc.  and  I 
was  thankful  when  we  got  safe  home  without  collisions 
or  further  accident. 


*l» 


CHAPTER    XI. 


Ml 


FISHING    ON    THK    ST.    LAWRKNCE. 

Quebec  :  Saturday,  June  6th.~\\^  left  Ottawa  yester- 
day-Archie, I).,  and  I;  Nelly  was  up  to  see  us  off  and 
looked  a  httle  melancholy  at  being  left  behind    '  We 
went  by  tram  to   Prescott,  and  had  two  hours  to  wait 
for   the   boat,  which  had    been  detained   by  fog       We 
feared  this  delay  would  disarrange  our  plans,  and  make 
us    late    for  the  night-boat   from  Montreal;    but  as  it 
waited   for   us,  we  made  our  journey  successfully,  and 
arrived    this   morning   at   delightful    Quebec,  where  as 
usual  we  met  with   the  most  friendly  welcome.     Pcoi)Ie 
always  seem  so  glad  to  see  us  here,  and  all  the  way  up 
the  town   faces  were  smiling  at  the  windows,  and  hats 
were  off  everywhere  ;  it  is  just  like  coming  home  !     In 
the  afternoon  Archie  played  in  afoot-bai.  match—"  'I'he 
Clandeboye"  against    "The  Rovers";    I  need  not  say 
who  won. 

n.  and  I  had  a  walk   in  the  town,  and  then  I  un- 
packed the  English    box,  which  has   just  arrived,  and 
which  astonished  me  with  the  new  fashions  it  contained 
I  can  not  yet  decide  whether  to  put  on  tlie  bonnets  for- 
wards, backwards,  or  sideways. 

Wednesday,  loth.—Wt  went  on  board  the  Druid,  and 
left  Quebec.    The  day  was  lovely,  and  as  we  went  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  the  <-oIoring  was  beautiful  everywhere 
We  passed  numbers  of  sailing-vessels. 

Friday,   /-?///.— Found  ourselves  in   sight   (if  Gas-)^ 


awa  yester- 

us  off,  and 

-hind.      We 

Lirs  to  wait 

fog.      We 
',  and  make 

but  as  it 
ssf Lilly,  and 
:,  where  as 
le.  People 
the  way  up 
<,  and  h.its 
home!  In 
tch— "  The 
h1  not  say 

then  I  un- 
rived,  and 
contained. 
)nnets  for- 

Onti(/,  and 
vent  down 
'erywhere. 

of  Gasp^ 


tSSSS&^ajssrnser"^' 


« 


r     ? 


^W 


Junk  1874 


THE    YORK  RIVER. 


157 


c 


this  ■nornin.^..     Net  a  ripple  on  the  water,  and  the  phice 
lookin^r  i.n-ely.     Mr.  Kcicn,  the  vivacious  harlu.r-master 
came  on  board,  presented  me  with  a   lar^^e   Indian  box 
which  had    been    made  for    me.   told  us   all  about  the 
salmon,  etc, 

1).    went    into    the  bush  to    sec    about    our    llshin- 
">x.     We  iiave  brought   with  us   the  pieces  of  a  little 
Dc'droom  and    dressin--room,   which  are   to  i,e  put  to- 
gether on   the  site,  which   I),  walked  ei^^hteen  nules  to 
select. 

'riie  night  was  very  bad-rain,  snow,  and  hail  We 
are  glad  to  be  m  harbor. 

Sunday,  /^///.-Rather  a  fine-kx.king  morning  l)i,t 
cold.  We  went  to  church  and  had  a  good  serm'on- 
short  and  plain.  In  the  afternoon  we  landed  on  the 
U.rk  side  of  the  harbr.r,  and  drove  along  a  good  road 

We  met  a  friend  on  the  way,  a  farmer,  originally 
from  Cavan,  who  has  cleared,  and  now  lives  upon,  thirty 
acres  of  his  own  land.  He  and  his  wife  have  added 
fifteen  to  the  population  of  Gaspe.  He  asked  us  up  to 
his  house,  which  was  very  comfortable:  a  large  sitt  n- 
room,  with  three  concertinas,  books,  etc..  in  it  ;  a  dininj-' 
room,  kitchen,  and  nice  bedroom  on  the  ground  floor 
and  everything  very  neat  and  clean.  The  view  from  his 
door— lovely. 

.  ,if ""'"'';  '5th.~Onx  two  rooms  were  taken  off  in  the 
middle  ot  the  night  to  their  destination  on  the  St.  John 
River,  and  I).,  Archie,  and  I  soon  went  after  them  We 
made  the  first  part  of  the  journey  in  a  "  wagon,""  then 
got  on  horses,  and  rode  at  a  iog-walk  for  three  hours 
when  we  reached  our  fishing-Dox.  Wc  gave  all  neces- 
sary direaions  there,  and  then  mounted  again  to  cross  to 
the  \  ork  River.  When  we  reached  Mr.  Reynolds's  camp, 
which  IS  situated  on  this  rushing  river,  I  got  Archie 
some  food,  and  then  the  poor  little  man  had  to  start 


'f'mF 


CH.  X 


.) 


APRIL  1874 


ENGLISH   VISITORS. 


149 


'■#-• 


«/ 


when  I  dressed  u't^  again,  and  we  Veturned  to  the  Senate 

Chamber  to  hold  a  Drawing-room  ■  it  wentoff  very  well 

-and  was  quite  a  Utilliaht  affair.  ' 

^•a/^r^a;.,^^//,.- We   turned    out   of   th6  draimg- 

foom  to-day,  id  have  .it  arra.>ged  as  a  second  supper- 
room.  ' ,  .'   ■:  ^ 

The  conservatory  was  hung  with  ChiTiese  lanterns 
and  everythmg  that  was  possible  done  to  embellish  the 
rooms  for  an  eve,ning-part)r.         • 

There  was  a  5and,  tablcaui,  and  some  singing  in  the 
drawmg-room,  supper  in  two  .,  •  u,s,  and  I  (relieve  people 
^njoyed  themselves.     •>  .  ' 

■      Sunday,  2gth.^\St  had  such  a  nice  walk  on  the  Ot- 
tawa.    The  banks  were  lovely,  clothed  in  icicles,  and  ice-   '■ 
grottoes,  into  which  we  got,  had  been  formed  in  places. 
They  were  supnbrted  by   enormous  pillars  of  ice,  and  a 
fringe  of  large/Icicles  shut  us  in.  ^     ,. 

r//«./^.vs  jA/._  I  went  in|o  the  House,  expectingJil 
see  Ricl  take  His  scat.     There  was  great'  cxctement  out-  ' 
-  side,  but  he  did  not  appear.     We  heard  a  very  amusing 
debate  about  abolishing  tlie  sale  of  spirits?  within  the 
,  precmcts  of  Parliament."  We  were  very  busy  at  home 
^  -preparing    everything    for    a    full-dress    rehc<^rsal    of   a 
selection. from, the  opera  of  "  Semiramide  "  and  the  ^ittle 
play  of-'<One  Hriur,"  in  which  J  myself  take  part.      The 
rehearsal   was  successful,   tl^e  servants    making    up  an 
audience. 

•     Thursday,  id  April. ~Ux:On;,x\t%  Kingsley 'and  his      . 
daughter  are  staying  with  us,  and  w«  took  t  lM.m  over  the 
Houses  of  .Parliament,  and  had  Sir  )o^n  artd  Lady  M«c- 
donald  one  day,  and  Mr.  and   Mrs.  .Mack-Muie  another 
,  tt)  meet  them  at  dinner,  .'-•  »■• 


^i 


Dalfa.   etc.  .  '>  '^    .  f 


Hypatta,  etc 


V:, 


y 


\'M 


*  .  V  N^ 


A\  \h 


*%jhf 


»♦• . 


sV- 


150 


Jfy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 

.Va/«rd'<y,  ^/^.^VVe  looked  on  at  cwling  to-day^'and 
saw  U  beat  the  "  ehampion,"  Mr.  GiJraoui-,  twice  '  I)r 
Grant  c^ined^with  us,  and  he  and  Mr.  King^Iey  were  very 
happy  over  geological  subjects.      4^  ^ 

Easter  .Sunday,  j//,.-There  was  a  great  congregation, 
and.  we  had  rf,i  excellent  sermon  from  Mr.  Kingsley 
appropriate  to  the  day.  He,  does  not  stammer  at  allin 
preachmg.  Jhe  gentlemen  say  that  in  the  smoking-room 
he  .s  most  amusing  ;  but  he  seems  shy,  and  is  .thexefore 
less  brilliant,  in  general  society. 

Tuaday,  jth.-VX    walked   into    Ottawa,    and   in  the 
street  met   Mr.  Laurence  Oliphant,*  whom  he  asked  to"^ 
come  to  us  at  once,  and  to  bring  his  wife.    'He  is  very 
pleasant,  and  she   is  a  sweet,  pretty  little  woman,  very 
chatty;      1  hey  belong   to   a   curious  sect,  headed  by  a 
Mr.  Harris.     They  have  no  objection  to  talking  alwut 
't    to  lis,    but    she    tells    me    that    in   .the    community 
they  never  speak  of  religion,  that  they  have  no  church, 
no  -services,  and  that  every  member  believes,  or,  rath- 
er,  disbelieves,   what    he   likes.     They    look    upon   Ml 
Harris  as  a  "  moral   doctor,"  and  all  the'ir  efforts  in  a 
"good"   direction    are    employed  in   conquering   their 
own  faults  by  their  own  efforts—drtd  Mr.  HarrisVpre. 
scnptions;  they  also  believe  that  their  prophet  actual- 
ly suffers  physical  pain  when  his  followers  offend,  and 
that   they  know  when    they  do  wrong   themselves  by 
a    peculiar    sensation    in    the    throat:      They   coiisider     ' 
themselves  bound   to  spend  all  they  have;  not  merely 
to   give    to    charitable    institutions,    but    to    distribute 
It  persbnally.     They  live  in  a  district  where  they  have 
farms,  and   the  members   all   help  each  other  as  (hey 
can,  '  . 


"He 


•»  The  late   Laurence  Ulipharit.  aliihor  of  TJ...  Y\yr'M\ 


lly  Pitl 


J£Bk 


CH.  X 


MAY  1874  AMATEUR    THEATR/HALS. 


151 


Friday,  JO/A.—D.  curled,"  and  pearly  killed  Mr.  OJi- 
phant  with  the  exertion.  I  like  both  her'and  him  very 
much  ;  and  certainly  their  faith  in  what  they , do  believe, 
and  their  conscientious  peffornianee  of  the  same  a^e 
wonderful.  '  •  ' 

/-r/V/r/v,////;. -The  great,  ball  given  by  the  citizens  of 
Ottawa  in  our  honor  took  place  to-iiight.  The  dancing 
was  in  the  Senate  Chamber-a  ve.'y  handsome  roonv- 
and  a  new  floor  was  put  down  for  Ihe  occasion.  1  s^p. 
pose  two  thousand  people  were  present,  but,  there  we/e  < 
so  many  passages  and  |)romenade.s  that  the  dancing  wis 
not  too  crowded.  We  much  appreciated/our  hosts' kind- 
ness and  hospitality. 

A/vnJay,:!y//i.-We  were  pleased  to  sf^l^hc, morning' 
paper  that  there  are  $900  (nearly  ^2o()   over,-  after  all* 
the  iKiH  expenses  have  been  paid,  wJiicli  are  to  be  given 
to  charities. 

nWu,sday,  ^^M._In  the  evening  our  play  came  off 
and  was  a  great  success.  People  seen)  to  listen  with  eyes 
and  ears,  and  to  be  quite  del.ghted.  The  whole  com- 
pany was  good,  and  e^;ery  one  k.iew  his  or  lier  part  and 
It  went  smoothly  and  with  .spirit. 

"  After  it  wa»  over  I  changed  my  dress  in  about  three 
minutes,  and  cMe  dowh  to^upper.  Stray  couples  walked 
about  the  corridors,  Visited  the  conservatory,  and,  had 
what  is  calle^l  %a.loAety  time." 

'When  I  had  shaken  hands  with  the  ''six   hundred" 
and  we  were  alone  again,  we  had  our  supper,  of  which 
.  we  ^ere  all  Very  glad,  f«)r  acting  makes  one  so  hungry  ' 
.SW«r^/v,  May  jd.^i).  and   Frt^d  went  out  hunting 
and  had  a  very  pleasant  run. 

The  childfen  tried  a  paper-chase.  Colonel  Fletchet 
was  the  fojt,  and  th<j  run  was  most  exciting.'the  "  hoiui#" 
'ilirn'kihg  fill  the  way.  and  haying  suuie  tfelightfriHy  stin 
timber  to  cUmb. 


-K 


152 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 


A  Parliamentary  dinner;  five  expected  guests  failed 
to  come,  and  left  a  great  gap  at  the  table. 

Thursday,  /^///.— The  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Nova 
Scotia  and  Miss  Archibald  arrived  to  spend  a  few  davs 
with  us.         '.  ^ 

Lady  Harriet  is  expecting  her  sister  and  uncle— a 
great  excitement  in  our  smaU  World  •  for,  though  our 
guests  are  nupierous,  our  Jiome-circlels  small.  We  have 
very  pleasant  weathtr,  and  «it  out  a  great  deal,  enjoying 
It;  but  as  yet  there  are  no  leaves  on  the  trees*,  and  no 
plants  bedded  out 

Friday,  2id.~\\'^  had  such  a  pleasant  day,  driving  in' 
two  carriages  to  visit  Mr.  Gilmour's  j^lace  on  the  Gati, 
neau  River,  and  to  see  his  sawmills,  etc.  Lady  Mary 
and  Mr.  Marsham,  who  arrived  on  Friday,  went  with  us 
1'he  weather  was  fine,  and  the  river  very  full ;  the  rapids 
were  magnificent,  and  it  was  very  interesting  to  see  the 
lumber  go^down  them. 

We  watched  the  trunks  of  great  trees  turning  and   ' 
twisting  in  the  whirlpools,  passing  from  one  current  to 
another,  dashing  down  waterfalls,  disappearing  in  the 
wjves,  and  coming  up  again  on  the  brink  of  other  rapids"" 
We  saw  them  reach  a  place  where  a  number  of  men,  with 
poles  and  spikes,  stood   by  to   harpoon  and   mar(c   the 
passing  monsters,  sending  those  stamped  with  a  "(;  "  i^ 
one  direction,  and  those  with  a  "  P  "  in  another.     After 
this,  a  further  rush  down  the  river  brought  the  logs  to  a 
calm  pool,  wher€  they  were  just  recovering  from  their 
excitmg  voyage,  when  they  were  laid  hold  of  by  an  in- 
nocent-looking cogwheel,  up  which  they  marched  silowly 
and  surely  into  the  teeth  of  fourteen  thickset  saws,  which 
sent,  them   in  pieces  on  a   further  sail,  down    a'  small 
trough  of  water,  to  the  stack-yard.     In  addition  to  the 
almost  human  interest  of  this  tragic   perf(.rmance;  we" 
-had '"'"•'• •     1     .      .  ..  »    . 


iy£i»-iiccxi6fy-tu-UH44-^^^<>o(j  hinch  to  eat,  a  nice 


-^  !■*?('$'.  t*-^  *^  (■ 


m^  »-^ 


MAY  X874  T/fE  QUE&irs  BIRTHDAY. 


153 


ourselves 


drive,  and  a  row  home  in  Wats;  so  we  enjoveti 
much.  ' 

Monday,  ^jM.-The  Queen's  birthday  icept.  The 
morning  looked  bad,  but  we  dressed  ourselves  up  and 
at  eleven  arrived  m  front  of  the  Town  Hall,  where  the 
firemen  and  ea^s  were'to  be  reviewed.  We  h.oked  at 
and  wa  ked  rou^them-the  rai,^  coming  down  a  little- 
Kstened  to  an  address,  and  then  pi-oceeded  to  the  review- 
ground. 

The    Governor-Generars    Foot   Guards   looked   ex> 
tremely  well ;  but  the  weather  was  dreadful,  and  when  I 
came  to  give  away. ,^e  colors  rt  poured  m  torrents,  so 
that  the  feathers  in  my  bonnet  stood  on  end,  and  I  had 
to  take  of(  my  veil   and   throw  it  away.     You  may  im- 
agine my  mother's  feelings  when  I  turned  round  in  the 
middle  of  the  deluge  and  found  that  Archie  was  out  in 
dancmg-shoes!     We  hadjuneh  in  a  large  tent,  and  I) 
made  a  speeGh,.%bich  you  may  read  m  the  newspaper  1 
send  you. 

IVidiu-sdny,  27th-.\\^  made  an  expedition  down  the 
de-tA-day.      I),  paddled  his  canoe  to"  the  foot  of  the  •• 
(haudiere  Falls.     Colonel  Fletcher  rowed  ther^  and  we   • 
took    two   cafriage-loads,  with   five  children-all   in  a 
great   state   of   excrtement.     We   found    a  magnificent 
cnb     prepared  for  us-flags  and  green  arches  over  it- 
and  when, we  were  all  assembled,  we  started  at  a  slow 
and  stately  pace  on  our  journey  over  the  Slide  down  to 
the  Ottawa.     It  takes  three  waterfalls  to  reach  thefevel     " 
of  the  river,  and  going  over  these  is 'the  greatest   ftm 
We  remained  on  our  crib  for  some  time,  and  then  got  an 
to^  a  /alt  for  tea,  which  we  drank   out  of  tins,  without 
milk  or  sugar;  and  we  ate  raft.-made  bread,  whic^h  wW 
excellent         ' 


Slide-tA-( 


titt-thr  Ridcaii  m  a  rarriage'' 


1    ,^ 


ii. 


for  about  ci^htmiJes.  and  saw  the  Falls,  which 


are  yery 


••'■'"Si*^"''' 


154 


Jtfy  CAJ^ADlAIf  JOURNAL. 


CH.  X 

pretty,  /  Had  tea  there,  and  came  b^cfc  in  canoes,  D 
roiRring/me.  Thererwas  a  beautiful  sunset,  and  the  river 
was  Icively-^the  scenery  much  mdi'e  English-like  and 
mea(|6wy  thaait  usually  is  here.  There  were  some  rap- 
ids tb  run,  and^we  ladies  got  out,  while  the  Colonel  and 
D.jook  their  dSnoes  down.  '  It  was  quite  dark  when  we 
got  home.  -^        ■ 

\  Saturday,  3Sth.^j^  it  was  a  lovely  day,  and  as  the 
mosquitoes  are,;  so' %r,  very  hai-nriess,  had  tea  out  of 
3or§.     We  carried  tJie  things  .down  to  the  rocks,  and 
ihe   children   were   extrem%.  happy  attending   to   the 
/fire,  and  jumping  about  ^  tfte  edge  of  the  water.     The 
/two   families  were  ^present  —  ten  old  enough   for  pic- 
nics. .  v-        -V""'    ■   '  ■        ,  ■'■■■'  ■     ■    . 

Tuesday,  June  2d.— We  drove  about  twelve  miles  into 
the  country  to  the  borders  of  "  Meech's  Lake,"  a  pretty  ■ 
piece  of  water  inhabited  by  swarms  of  mosquitoes  We 
drank  our  \ea  in  a  cloud  of  sittoke,  to  keep  off  the  tor- 
mentors, and  then  got  into  our  canoes  (which  had  been 
brought  here  in  a  cart)  and  explored  the  Lake.  "  We  " 
means  the  Fletchers,  Lady  Mary  Marsham.  1).,  and  my- 
self. ■  ■       ■ 

Our  expedition  did  not  end  quite  pleasmitly.     It  had 
been  arranged  tlrtt  we  were  to  get  into  a  boat  half-way 
and  row  home.     The,  night  w^s  very  dark,  and  the  Cur- 
rent tremendous.    Presently  we  came  up  against  a  beam 
of  wood  stretched  across  the  rushing  river,  whieh  we 
knew  had  an  opening  in  it  through  which  boats  could 
pass;  but  in  the  dark  we  could  not  find  the  place.     The 
Colonel,  who  was  rowing  with  D.,  .^aid  the  ladies  woiild 
have  to  get  out,  and  that  the  boat  must  be  lifted  over 
the  bar.    Oh,  it  was  disagreeable  !    We  knelt  on  the  nar- 
row plank,  with  the  rapid  stream  swirling  under  it  and 
I  don't  think  I  could  have  done  it  Ixit  for  a  foctiinat'e"' 
peg  la  my  bit  of  pUnk  by  which  i  held  On,  aM^  wTucir~" 


I 


t     ■> 


CH.  X 


1 


iV^  ^v 


JUNE  1874 


EXCUXSlpNS. 


155 


gave  me  a  certain  sense  of  security.  Lady  Mary  was  so 
brave :  she  made  no  fuss  at  all.  When  the  boat  had  been 
dragged  over  the  beam  we  got  intoit  again  ;  but  we  had 
several  more  alarms  about^teamers,  rafts,  etc..  and  I 

:  sSfe  home  without  collisions 


was  thankful  when  we  got 


or  further^aceident. 


I 


.<  ■* 


A 


\      ,      •   ,      -     u 

,41  V'      .  1       I^W     1 


f^B^B^smsmmam 


.1' 


>4 


i-^r^N 


'     CHAPTER   XI. 

FISHING    ON    THE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 

Quebec :  Safufnay,  June  tfM.^We  left  Ottawa  yester- 
day-Archie, D.   and  I ;  Nelly  was  up  to  see  us  off,  m 
looked  a  little  melancholy  at  being  left  behind       We 
went  by  tram  to   Prescott,  and  had  two  hours  to  wait 
for   the   boat,  which  haxl    beeq  detained   by  fog       We  V 
feared  this  delay  would  disarrange  our  plans,  and  make 
us   late    for  the  night-boat   from  Montreal;    but  as  it 
waited   for  us,  we  made  our  journey' successfully,  and 
arrived    this   morning   at   delightful    Quebec,  where  as 
usual  we  met  with    the  most  friendly  welcome.     People 
^always  seem  so  glad  to  see  us  here,  and  all  the  way  up 
<he  town   fafces  were  smiling  at  the  windows,  and 'hats 
•  were  off  every^ere  ;  it  is  just  like  coming  home  !  :  In 
tl^e  afternoon  Archie  plaVed  in  afoot-ball  match—"  The 
Clandeboye  "  Against    '' The  Rovers"-    I  need  not  say 
who  won.         *  jf  .         i 

*r).  and  I  had  a  walk   in  the  town,  and  then  I  un- 
packed the  English    box,   which  has   just  arrived,  and 
which  astonished  me  with  the  new  fashions  it  contained 
I  can  not  yet  decide  whether  to  put  oii  the  bonnets  for- 
wards, backwards,  or  sideways. 

IVednfsdt^,  loth.^VJ^  went  on  board  the  Druid  and 
left  Quebec.    The  day  was  lovely,  atfd  as  we  went  down 
the  St. -Lawrence  the  coloring  was  beautiful  everywhere      ' 
We  passed  numberg  of  sailing-vessels. 

/^r,««r,  /^M._-«tJTnTU  aurseives^"srgHt~^FGasp^ 


/-- 


.»       a 


\    ■•     ; 


.V 


■■I 


pVi^v?>5--»^  ' 


■HI' 


awa  yester- 

us  off,  and 

ihind.      We 

Its  to  wait 

fog.      We  \ 
*  and  make 

but  as  it 
jsfully,  and 
,  where  as 
c  People 
the  way  up 
5,  and  'hats 
fiome  !  •  In 
eh—"  The 
:d  not  say 


fe 


-f*- 


hen  I  UH' 
rivedj  and 
contained, 
nnets  for-, 

^fut<f,  and 
'ent  down 
cry  where. 


of  Gasp^ 


Z>^ 


''  h 


r^ 


/I 
i 


ir«it*"' 


.«P^S^^ 


June  1874 


Tm    YORK  RIVER. 


157 


h.s  mormng.     Not  a  ripple  on  the  water,  and  the  place 
looking  lovely.     Mr.  Kden,  the  vivacious  harbor-master 
came  on  board,  pret^ented  me  with  a   large  Indian  box 
wh.ch  had    been    lyiade  for    me,   told  us   all  about  the 
salmon,  etc.  •         'X  ■ 

box.  We  haveWught  with  us  the  pieces  of  a  little 
bedroom  and  dressing-room,  which  are  to  be  put  to- 
gether on  the  sit^,  which  D.  walked  eighteen  mUes  to 
select.  j 

The  night  wai^'  very  bad-rain,  snow,  and  hail  We 
are  glad  to  be  in  |iarbor.  ,,  ' 

Su,uhiy,  /^//..-[.Rather  a  fine-lookin^r  morning,  but 
cold.  We  went  |o  church  and  had  a  good  sermon- 
short  and  plain.  In  the  afternoon  we  landed  on  the 
York  side  of  the  t^arbor,  and  drove  along  a  good  road 

We  mefa  friend  on  the  way,  a  fanner,  (originally 
frT^  Cavan,  who  ^s  cleared,  and  now  lives  upon,  thirty 
acr,s  of  h.s  ow^  land.  He  and  his  wife  have  added 
.fifteen  to  the  p Julation  of  Gasp.^  .  He  asked  us  up  to 
his  house  which  jvvas  very  comfortable:  a  large  .sitting- 
room,  jv.th  three  foncertinas,  books,  etc..  in  it  ;  a  dining- 
room,  kitchen,  an^  nice  bedroom  on  the  ground  floor 

Mo^ay  isthLonr  two  rooms  were  taken  off  in  the 
middle  of  thecJht  to  their  destination  on  the  St.  John 
R.ver  and  D.,  Archie,  and  I  soon  went  after  them      We    ' 
m^de  the  first  p^rt  of  the  journey  in  a  "  wagon,"  then 
got  bn  horses,  ar^d  rode  at  a  jog-walk  for  three  hours 
when  we  reached  our  fishing-box.     Wc  gave  all  neces-' 


sary  directians  t 
the  York  River. 


-wlHeh,; 


vs  sTtiratep 
some  food,  and 


ere,  and  then  mounted  again  to  cross  to 


OT   this  rushing  river,   I  got   Archie 
!:hen  the  poor  little  nian  had  to  start 


^,  N      / 


s» 


_/ 


ft 


■  ^,    «<)  \ 


v^.  -  .0. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


// 


/!/ 


f/. 


I.U  |50     '" 


I.I 


1.25 


25 


1.4 


1.6 


W 


o^ 


^% 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

WIBSTIR,  N.Y.  1 4310 

(71*)  •73-4903 


^ 


o 


<\  <0v  ^\ 


I 


fA 


rsS 


M  Y  CA  XADIA  A'  JO  URN  A  L. 


cii.  xr 


! 


back 


was  vcr 


aRain,  and  only  reached  home  at  ten  at  nijrht.     Ik- 
y  proud  of   his   Ion;;  day,  which   prevented  his 


ackno\vk'(l;^nng  any  falij^u 

Our  host  is  so  pleasant  and  kind,  and  wc  had 
agreeable  dinner;  Colonel  McNeill  *  and  Mr.  Monck 
also  here.     Afterward 
th 


a  very 


s  we  sat  around  a  fire  outside. 


are 
and 


len  came  in  to  write  uj)  the  ^Mine-book. 


Titcs,ht\\   1 6th. —  It 


rained  early  in  the  morning,  |)ut 


was  sunny,  though  cold,  ^^x^x\n^  the  day.     I  fished  for  a 
short  time,  and  caught,  or,  rather,  hooked,  a  "  kelt  "—an 


uneatable  salmon,  whiih  has  I 


)een  in  the  river  all  tlw 


winter.    I),  caught  one  salmon  of  14  lbs.,  Colonel  McNeill 


two,  and  Mr.  Monck  two;  but  it 
bad  day's  sport. 


as  considered  a  very 


Thi 


s  is  a  beautiful  river 


tuinihers  o 


rai)id  current,  very  clear  water.     The  woods  h 


deal  of  birch   in  th 


em,  and  the  look-out 


open  than  on  most  of  the  rivers. 


f  pools,  a  very 
:»ve  a  ;.;reat 
is  much  more 


On  our  ret 


fo 


urn  we  had  dinnr-r.  camp-fire,  etc.,  as  bc- 


re.     I  have  such  a  comfortable  room,  with  carpet  and 


curtams 


U',\{n,-uh\\  ryf/i.~\).  fished  vij,'orously  all  this  very 
wet  day  with  no  result.  'I'he  only  ff)rtunate  person  was 
Mr.  ^^.nck,  who  br()u;,du  home  two  salmon,  .'6  and  27 


th 


le  (itliers 


lbs. 


those  "  unclean  "  fish 


caujrlit  kelt,  and  were  very  angry 


over 


/'/////, s, /,/!•.  /,W/.-\Ve  (elei^rraphed  last  week    to   Fred 


and  Dr.  Campbell  not  to  ( 


ome.  as  there  seems  no  cl 


lance 


of  the  nshinir  on  the  St.  John  bcKinniny  yet  ;  but  to-day 
we  hear  that  they  have  arrived.  Colonel  McNeill  and 
Mr.  Monck  have  most  kindly  Ronc  up  the  river  to  a 
distant  house  in  order  to  leave  room  for  them  here  as 


•  ^fninN(;l.ncrn!    Sir  J.,iu.  .McNeill,  V.  C,  K.  C.  H..  E-iucrry  to 
H.  M.  ihe  (Jnecii.  '       ' 


CII.  XI 

i«;lit.  lie 
eiitcil  his 

ad  a  very 
loiuk  are 
tsidc,  and 

niii;^f,  but 
lied  for  a 
clt " — an 
r  all  the 
1  McNeill 
•d  a  very 

s,  a  very 
c  a  ji^reat 
icli  more 

'.,  as  he- 
rpct  and 

Ills  very 
soil  was 
>  and  17 
;ry  over 

to  Fred 
I  ( lianre 
t  to-day 
(•ill  and 
cr  to  a 
here,  as 


JUNE  .874  FISinXG  A  7-    YORK  RIVER. 


Mr.  R 


rihly  wet. 


cynolds  insists  upon  h 


'59 

laving  them.    The  day  is  ter- 


Satuni,n\  .',v//._Fre(I  and  Dr   (' 

■ery  early,  having  left  the /;,v//,/ 
Ue  had  a  very  beaiitifuj  d 


river  had   risen  s< 


and  I  took  a  walk,  and  Fred 


niiicli  that  there 


imphell  arrived  here 
>t  5  A.  .M. 
ly  as  to  weather,  hut  the 


as  no  fishing.     I). 


self 


and  two  men  into  the  water. 
Mr.  Monekeamedown  from  his  I 


iip>^i;t  a  canoe,  and  .,ent  him- 


"II,  one  twentv-n 


lit'  and  the  other  twent 


!i<uise  with  two  salm- 


.V///A/,/r,  2ist.~\i   last  we  1 


y-two  j)ounds. 


can  not  he  considered  a  "mid 


li;>vc  a  fine  day,  though  it 


a  walk,  and  sat 


round  a  "sniud 


summer's  day."     We  took 


damp  wood,  wiiieh  smokes  and  k 


-that   is.  a  fire  of 


niosipiitoes  off. 


ccps  the  l)la(  k-ll 


ii's  and 


Mon(/i 


',t\\  22ii.~\ 


i"k'.     The  river  i; 


ice  weather,  i)ut  the  sal 


much  to(.  Iii^rh,  and  tl 


nion  not  ri> 


rapid.     I  went  down  to  the  po.d  where  1 


le  current  too 


th 


c  canoe,  and  walked  hack  I 


not  to  do  so  again,  lest  1  should 


>y  myself;  hut  I 


was  fishing  i 


n 


Tiu'uiity,  2j,/.~}\ 
so  far  at  Vork  River  : 


meet  a  hear. 


;iiii  advised 


ere  are  the  statistics  of  our  fishing 


Mr.   Reynolds,    five   fish,    weiul 


13  lbs. 


'Khing   23,    2,,   3^^^    ,0 


Colonel   McNeill,  twel 

*S.  27,  3^,  24,  20,  26,   14  II 


ve,  wei 


ghing 


24.  22,   II,   ,8. 


34. 


Mr,  Monck. 


15  If'^ 


seven,  weighing  25,   11,  26,  27, 


'7,   ij, 


Lord  I )„  three:   1.,,  ,.^.  ,0  lbs. 


I'Vfd.  tw 


So  f, 


<>:  31,  14  lbs. 


R 


evnolds  (• 


ir  we  have  not  been  fort 


mate,     Last  year  Mr. 


'"Jrlit  ten  fish  himself  the  first  day'l 
i^lits  were:  47.  .^7,30,  , 


out.     Their  respective  weigl 


20,   18,  p,  30,   10.  the  nvera«re  ! 


'    -    '  .!-»   .i«t    lu,   me  nver.age    heintr 
marvelous  in  the  way  of  fishhig,  and  I 


"f?   ?5   lbs.     Th 


lie  went 


•9. 

Is  is 


record  it  as  an 


i6o 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


cir.  XI 


interesting  fact,  thouirh  i  Uon't  suppose  you  will  appre- 
ciate it. 

TliuisJii\\2Stfi.—.\xi:\\\ii  arrixed  to-dav,  and  Mr.  Rey- 
nolds left.  I ).  had  at  last  a  yood  day's  nshinJ,^  and  came 
home  with  six  salmon:  26,  25,  14,  ,.3,  ,2,  ,0  lbs.  Dr. 
Campbell  caught  one,  23  l!)s.,  and  Kred  nothin),'.  The 
(lay  was  extremely  cold,  and  we  were  surprised  that  the 
fish  rose  at  all. 

Our  mail  arrived,  and  in  the  middle  of  his  salmon- 
tatchinjr  |).  sent  olt  dispatches. 

/'/7./,/r,  .'^///.— Fred  was  j^rjven  the  best  pool  to-ilay, 
and  I),  went  up  to  the  "Little  Salmcm  H(de  "  and  the 
"  Mat  Rock  "  pool.  I  walked  there  with  him,  a  distance 
of  about  three  miles  through  the  woods,  and  Archie 
went  up  the  rapids  in  a  canoe.  lie  and  I  then  looked 
(Ml  at  the  sport,  he  amusiuK'  liimself  between  times  by 
cuttin^r  down  trees  with  a  hatchet  and  by  feeding  .1  fire 
with  wood. 

D.'s  first  fish  was  a  very  lively  little  one.  which 
jumped  and  frisked  about,  and  finally  took  him  rij.,rht 
down  the  rapids.  It  was  12  lbs.  'l"he  .second  sulked, 
and  merely  kept  a  good  steady  pull  on  the  line,  keeping 
it  up  for  an  hour,  and  only  making  for  the  rapids  at  the 
last  moment.     It  weighed  23  lbs. 

Our  lunch,  which  the  men  provided,  consisted  of  lum- 
berman's fare:  bread  fricl  in  pork  fat.  and  tea.  We 
all  came  down  in  a  canoe,  the  stream  bringing  us  at  a 
great  pace. 

We  foe  id  that  Dr.  ("ampbell  had  not  even  seen  a 
fish.  Tred  caught  two,  and  having  just  finished  a  strug- 
gle with  a  twenty-six-pounder,  he  came  home  to  dinner 
in  very  good  spirits.  This  fish  was  already  gaffed  and 
m  the  boat,  when  it  jumped  out  again,  broke  the  top  of 
his  rod,  and  had  to  be  played  for  another  five  minutes; 
BO  that  it  was  a  miracle  he  saved  it. 


CIt.  XI 

)ii  will  api^re- 

aiul  Mr.  Key- 
ing, and  came 
,  lo  lbs.  Dr. 
<>tlliIl;,^  'I'lic 
iscd  that  the 

liis  salmon- 
pool  to-ilay, 
)le  "  and  the 
m,  a  distance 
and   Arcliie 
then   looked 
L'en  tunes  by 
ceding  -i  fire 

(Mic,  which 
>k  hini  ri;.,du 
:()nd  sulked, 
line,  keeping 
ra|)ids  at  the 

isted  of  liitn- 
ul  tea.  We 
k'ing  lis  at  a 

['vcn  seen  a 
hed  a  strug- 
le  to  dinner 
galled  and 
;  the  top  of 
ve  minutes; 


Jink  1874 


OCA'   C.I.)//\ 


161 


clothes,  there  ^w.re  two  ,e„  "  '"      "-"'-  ""r 

^" '-  ^--I'-ted  ov):  ::  , :;  "  •""  •"'•  ->•' "  >'-'.- 

^'"•<'Ugh  the  hush,  I,  uy  ,;''''';-'''^^  ''■''■  ^^''''''^ 
f-vnnnutcsaftcTthM-  1.  ''"'  ^''■"■'^■'""  "•'"<.  and  a 
"'^'Stream,  with  -,  It'tl        "'''"  '"'"'   ''"'"'"^   ''""" 

v^'^  ^••-'•'"HMcxeiii  and  M,-M;;n;r;:;"'V'' ;'"'"• 

"'•■''    the  raft  contained    ,1,  ""^  *""••""'"'•  ^'-nnd 

»■<■  niTc  M,„i,  af,^.,.  ,11  , 

""■- 'HI,  a„.i ,  „,dc.-i ;      ;'•"■'■  ■"""'■• 

,';"->■■ -.,,,,,•,;';';:;,;::;:'>•"■--■■■-".'-, 

TlH- „„■„  l,.„,   ,v,r     ,     V  ;"    "'""   »'—la.,l    i,. 

'-^  l'a.l.s  ,,„„     .      .,     :    .  """■  ^'■'"   '™l  "-!.■  .  ..,l„r. 

.iivi.i. ..'.,:;'„  :"'■■;;■"■•'"  ••';•» i™ „„„.,. 

':''"'■     TI„T,.  i/ ;     '  V        "';■"■''•  "''"'■  m"«|mt...,  „r. 

^'-iv..,. I  ^litur;;'';;::^';,;''''! ''■"'■' '"■•■'»''■''' 

i"  wl.i,.„  „„r  ,„c",:  1;;:;,;;" "-'" "'"'!.■  "...I,:,.,- 

^>Pn<'site  our  door    1  l.,.Mn..     i 

"— "■ c.,,av,.:;;,^  ";;,.'":-■ ;■■• <■ 

awav.  ^miujgo  to  siiiokt 


loKe  tlicni 


1 6: 


.vr  ci.wiD/.i.v  /ocA'XAr. 


en.  xi 


'I'lic    kit<lic 


II    is    ill    aiiolluT    IdLT-hou- 


(■   <in   tlic  (ithcr 


side,  ;iii(l  from  it 


we  sdoii  had  an  excellent  dmne 


Nouell  (|)."s  valet)  has  made  all  these  arr 


iii''cnicnts. 


and,  111   spite   <.f  many  bites   from   the   iintirin.i;   llies,   he 
works  away  with  j^reat  goud-hiunor  and  ..kill. 


If 


OIK  mr, 


.U,>iiJ,n\  jQffi.—'Vhv   Tirsl    CisI 


im)4'   on    our   own    river. 


The  lislu-rs  (h'ew  lots  for  the  pools,  and  ,\r(  hie  and  I 
went  to  see  D.'s  siicet'ss.  He  only  broti.tjht  two  home 
wlu'ii  we  rf'tiirnt'd  to  dine  at  two  o'clock.  The  others 
had  iif-t  seen  a  fish,  so  i  >.  and  iJr.  ( '.unr.heii   icsoivcd   lu 


July  1874 


DOMIXIOX  DA  Y. 


JTo  flown  towards  the  mouth  of 
ly  now  oil  their  way  up.      Ih 


163 


th 


e  river,  the  fish  bei 


in  which  th 


to  fish   in  a  hike  el 


ey  intended  to   sleep  t 


ere  is  a  little  h 


ouse  there, 


trout.     S(jme  of  these 


ose   by,  and   b 


"-ni«ht.     Arch 


ic  went 


e  ate  for  tea 


^"""^  'J'  iiiese  we  ate  fo 

IVeJnesJay,  July  /j/.—Anoth 


rought  home   fourtee 


n 


It  was  Dominion  I), 


;»y,  we  had  several  (] 


t^r  very  bad  day,  but, 


o'clock-    in    ,1,        f  ,  '    "'*-'>■     '''*''    ^'^'^ed   till   two 

^^^^^•,  '3.  M  lbs.;  and  Dr.  Campbelinve-.,,  „,,.,,,  ,^ 
T/iinsiiiiv,  2d. — D    was   mm   nf 

can,htfive-sa,nu>n!^Ct:    :^;,rH"^''^'''^"'' 
J'ome  when  he  cau.d.t  the  la  t   so  le  .h  r  'T  "'"^'"^^ 

it  down  to  the  house      I   wash  "'"'."''' '"  ^^'"«^ 

nshermen-s  return  to  din:^^;:T;;r""^'^^^"^ 
i"^-thD.han,i„,ontoa;:n::'^^;.?;:n^^^^^ 

c.Un,,andwesawthecreature  brought  as W^:^,::; 
"P  and  down  the  nool  wWK  ..  v!'    ^T..  ''^'^''""  ^''^ «" 


try  the  "  Silver  Doct 


pool  with  "King  ('off 


fish 


's  on  !     This  one 


'^r,     and  at  seve 


t^c.     and  then  wi 
"  o'clock   another 


13 


s'mpiy  tugs;  he  keeps  a  steady 


164 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XI 


pull  on  all  the  time,  and  I  do  the  same  by  him,  and  take 
care  to  give  hnn  no  rest,  but  wind  him  up  every  time  he 
attempts  to  lie  (juiet;  once  he  jumps,  and  they  say  he  is 
a  largo  one.     This  game  goes  on    fur  some  time,  and 
tiien  my  friend  ihmks  he  will  take  me  down  the  rapids. 
I  am   still   standing  in  the   ca:;oe,  but  keeping  firm   by 
pressing  my  knees  against  the  bar  across  it.     We  went 
down  half  a  mile  hand-in-hand  like  this,  and  I  began  to 
feel  that  it  was  a  question   which  of  us  would  be  ex- 
hausted first.     A  salmon-rod  with  a  fish  at  the  end  of  it 
is  no  joke !     I  began  "  to  wish  he  were  dead,"  and  to  say 
to  my.self  that  I  never  would  go  through  such  an  anxiety 
again,  for  the  fish   is  never  safe  till   he  is  in  the  boat. 
At  last  we  gaffed  him,  brought   him  safely   to  his  death, 
weighed  him,    and  found    him    twenty-six   pounds— the 
largest  caught  here  this  year:  so  I  am  very  p.-oudof  my 
success.    The  nameless  pool  is  now  the  "  Countess  Pool." 
Saturday,  .ft/i.—\  wet  morning  again.     We  packed  up, 
and  went  down  in  canoes  towards   the  Dnad,  fishing  on 
the  way.     The  salmon    would  not  rise,  and  we  had  only 
three  to  show  at  the  end  of  a  long  day.     We  left  oyr 
boats  in  the  evening,  and  drove  to  Gaspe,  where  we  got 
on  board  the  DruU,  after  saying  farewell   to  our  fisher- 
men, etc. 

We  meant  to  start  at  once,  but  there  was  a  fog  out- 
side, and  we  did  not  get  off  till  foui  in  the  morning. 

Tuesday,  yth.~K  fog,— and  the  Druid  ai  a  standstill 
all  yesterday,  ve  not  knowing  where  we  were  till  three 
oVlo(  k,  when  the  mist  rolled  away  suddenly.  We  anch- 
ored at  night  about  fifteen  miles  from  'Fadousac,  and 
came  in  there  early  this  morning.  The  children  were 
looking  out  for  us,  and  Archie  went  ashore  to  fetch  Nelly 
and  Terence  for  breakfast,  and  to  show  off  his  steering. 

We  landed  after  breakfast,  and  found  Hermie  and 
Basil  with  outstretched  arms  at  the  top  of  the  stair.s,  wait- 


JULY  1874 


THE  SAGUEXAY. 


165 


everywhere.  '"'^"'  ''"^'   ^'•'^vls  al,„ut 

/'W'/</f,  /(///.—After  hrP'.K-     . 

and    Nelly-^ancl    starte.l    n  ,  ^'''^\-'^^"-^''-".  o'Tselves. 
o'clock  we  stopped  to  fish  •^^'^^"^nay.      At   two 

and  we  were  ni;  :l;;  ::i:::,^;''-.  '-  the  w„,d  rose. 

'ove,;:::::tr;s::;.::;;;:j--^-"^sawa.ost 

i>^eous  masses  of  purple  'd  M  ^"'"'-'  '^'"'^  '"'"  ^-- 
Jfrounds.  This  ar„!  of  he  •'''"''  ^^"''  ^^'^^  l^ack- 
Sreat  Canadian  sights-  i  V  "'  '' ":"^''^''-''-^'d  one  of  the 
water  is  very  deep'ri.h't  p  ^  '  ^ '^  ";  ^'"'  ^-■'^^.  •''-'  the 
a"  the  san.e  Ik  .ht  wj' "''^;  ^"' ^'-' ''■''-»- 
I'herearetwoenormn.  """'"^'''-^^  rno„otonous. 

tliem.  and  we  hope  to  see  them  i    .         ""    ''"  '"'*  ''"'^'^^d 

r>.  and  Coh!;  J'h;;^  :  ^^;;"f--^  -  Haha  «ay.  and 

-'--fishin,  in^s^^drr^^r^irrr'^^'^ 

'-ved  later,  and  found  that  th  "■sk;^  h-  m'  f^'  '"'" 
•^Port.  AVe  were  able  to  watc  t  ^  a  j  '•'"  ''^■"''^' 
most  excitini?  and  terrlM.  n.  '''  ''*'''  ^^»"»e 

hooked  a  saLon  ,1  TT  T  ^"  '"'•"^'^^"  '  ^>- 
very  stron,  and  L  ^  .^r  ft"t  ''"  ""^^""  ^"^^^ 
an  hour  he  insisted  un'on       ''^''' '''^^^^'^  '""re  than  half 

on  .reat  wadi  ^  k   7"'"^^k''""  ^'"'  "'"''^-    '>•  "-• 
'^'^•d  thro„,.h     he  ''  '"''  '^""'^'  «"'•  -»n  "r  st.nn- 

the  foot  of'^ne  r  p  d  H    r"';  ""^''  ^''""^  «^— •     At 

^^^-nwerei:::!t^;,r^f:;\:^';^^'^-^^ 


whHwri;,;::jrr:;:;:i': -v-^-'a;h  at 


a  second 


he   salmon  and  srnt    h 


It. 


apid;  then    there 


"tn    off  down 
was  another   long  pause, 


1 


i66 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XI 


another  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  gaffmen,  the  hook 
came  out  of  his  mouth,  and  he  was  gone  I  However,  we 
bron-^ht  home  seven  salmon,  and  were  all  very  happy, 
and  very  hungry  for  dinner  at  nine  o'clock. 

Branches  were  being  planted  all  along  the  road,  in 
honor  of  the  Redman  Catholic  Archbishop's  visit.  He 
comes  here  once  in  five  years.  I),  was  able  to  present 
each  of  the  priests  with  whom  he  was  to  stay  with  a 
salmon,  which  was  very  acceptable.  The  Comet,  and  a 
splendid  Aurora,  appeared  for  us  to  look  at  after  dinner. 
In  the  night  we  start  again. 

Sunday,  i2th. — We  reached  Chicoutimi  this  morning. 
We  sent  a  note  ashore  inviting  ourselves  to  breakfast 
with  the  Trices,  and  when  we  were  dressed  found  Mr. 
Price  waiting  with  his  carriages  to  take  us  to  the 
house.  The  Prices  are  a  happy  family  of  four  girls  and 
six  sons,  all  unmarried,  and  all  living  together.  We 
found  their  house  charming.  As  you  enter  the  gate 
you  see  through  the  trees  the  beautiful  blue  water,  with 
large  ships  upon  it ;  and  the  tide,  when  high,  comes 
right  up  to  the  edge  of  the  parapet.  It  is  a  delightful 
summer  resilience.  They  always  have  a  large  party  in 
the  house,  and  have  lovely  rides  and  drives,  and  boating 
excursions  for  their  guests. 

They  gave  us  a  good  breakfast,  which  we  ate  rav- 
enously, enjoying  all  the  country  fare,  and  the  wild 
.strawberries  and  cream!  Afterwards  we  walked  to  a 
waterfall,  and  then  returned  to  our  steamer,  and  waited 
on  board,  while  I),  received  an  address.  When  we  left 
we  fired  two  guns  as  we  passed  the  Prices'  house,  sa- 
luted with  our  flag,  and  exchanged  pocket-handkerchief 
waves !  The  weather  is  fine,  and  we  are  enjoying  our 
sail  immensely.  • 

Before  we  left  Tadousac,  an  Indian  came  to  D.  and 
said  that  he  wanted  io  go  to  the  Marguerite,  a  iittie  way 


Jt!LY  1874 


MU/^A'AY  JiAV. 


167 


up  the  Saguenay,  and  asked  if  he  might  go  with  us-  D 

told  him  to  go  on  board  the  DruiJ  with  his  canoe,  and 

there  we  found  him  comfortably  installed  ;  but  we  passed 

the  Marguerite  and  many  other  "stations,"  and  at  each 

he  refused  to  get   out;  so  it   ended    yesterday  in   our 

brmguig  h.m  back  agaui.     We  were  much  amused  at  the 

Idea  of  h>s  coming  the  trip  w.th  us,  e.ijoying  good  fare, 

and   returning  home  again.     Jiut  when  we  came  to  ex- 

amme  h.m,  it  turned  out  to  have  been  a  misunderstand- 

mg:  he  wished  to  offer  his  services  to  D.  as  a  fisherman 

h.nkmg  he  was  going  to  the  Marguerite,  and  once  on 

board  he  was  obliged  to  continue  the  voyage. 

In  the  afternoon  we  passed  under  the  cliffs  '•  Trinity  " 
and  "  Eternity.-  and  went  quite  close  to  them.  Trinity 
r.ses  straight  out  of  the  water  ,,500  feet  high,  a  straight 
wall  of  rock.  I),  fired  at  the  cliff,  and  we  threw  stones 
without  bemg  able  to  hit  it ;  it  looks  so  much  neare.^ 
than  It  IS  in  reality. 

We  reached  Tadousac  at  nine,  and  Archie  was  on  the 
sands  waiting  for  us,  Terence  awake  in  bed,  and  the 
others  asleep  and  invisible. 

Mo»day,  rjth.-ln  the  evening  we  went  on  board  the 
nnad  hoping  to  sail  ;  but  there  was  a  V-r,  ,vhich  con- 
tinued all  night,  and  which  kept  us  at  an.  u..: 

Tuesday,  i^f/i.-We  could  not  see  our  house  when  we 
first  got  up,  but  the  mist  cleared  away  suddenly,  and  we 
immediately  prepared  to  start.  Then  there  was  great 
waving  of  handkerchiefs  from  the  balcony  to  the  steam- 
er,  and  from  the  steamer  to  the  family  on  shore.  About 
two  o  clock  we  reached  Afurray  I?ay,  and  went  ashore  to 
see  this  rival  .seaside  place.  We  took  a  long  drive  in 
two  carnages,  D.  and  I  leading  the  way.  and  the  Fletch- 
ers and  Lady  Mary  following.  We  had  beautiful  wcath- 
er.  anil   thnmrKif  tu^   „i —   _   • 


and   thought  the   place  quite  lovflv,     Th 


c   ground 


seems  to  have  been  cut  into  terraces  and  mounds'by  the 


1 68 


My  CANADIAX  JOUK'XAr.. 


c-n.  XI 


action  of  water,  and  there  are  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  M 

;iins,   and   some  very  picturesq 


ray  River,  th 


ic  mount 


ses  to  malce   up  the  landscape.     After  d 


nearly  three  hours 


tiful  aurora 


we  dined  on  hoard,  and 


and  at  twelv 


ur- 

ue 
riving    for 
saw  a  beau- 


e  w 


ourselves,  on  the  m,,rning  of 


e  started  agam,  and  found 


Wednesday,  ijt/i,  at  St.  A 


nne.     We  drove  off  early,  m 


two  g,gs,  to  .see  some  celebrated  falls.     The  drive  was 
n.ne  miles,  and   we  passed  wood-carts  almost  by  hun- 
dreds drawn    by   oxen  and    horses.      The  weather    was 
fine   but  not   clear,  and   we  did    not  see  the  beautiful 
v.ews    o  the.r  best  advantage.     At  the  end  of  the  dr.ve 
we  followed  a  woman  who  was  to  guide  us  to  the  Fall 
She  brought   us   up  to  a  pretty  little  one,  which  we  de- 
cKled  was  scarcely  worth  all  the  trouble  we  had  taken 
to  see  .t;  but,   happ.Iy,   I   had  been  told  a  great  deal 
about  the  St.  Anne  Fall,  and  felt  sure  this  co 'id  not  be 
the  r.ght  one.     We  questioned  the  lady,  and  as  she  ad- 
mitted that  there  were  some  "  little  -  falls  above  we  de 
ternMned    to    go    on.     The    walk    was   tremendm.s-up 
s-.ch  a  hdl,m   the  bush,  and   with  pouring  rain  coming 
down  upon  us.    However,  we  struggled  on,  and  were  re- 
warded  by  fuubng  ourselves  suddenly  in    front  of  the 
J-alls.     1  he  water  was  rushing  from  a  great  height  down 
a  narrow  gorge,  forming  six  great  steps  or  waterfalls 
each  one  with  a  still  pool  at  its  base :  so  that  there  were 
SIX  separate  falls,  and  yet  but  one  flow  of  water 

By  the  time  we  got  back  to  our  carriages  we  were 
very  tired  indeed,  very  wet,  and  very  ready  for  our 
lunch,  which  we  were  to  have  in  a  cottage. 

The  yacht's  cook's  mother-in-law  lived  on  the  road 
and  he  begged  to  be  allowed  to  give  us  our  lunch  there' 
Nowell  tells  us  that  when  he  and  the  cook  arrived  they 
found  the  poor  people  busy  with  their  summer  cleaning- 
the  man  had  two  cans  in  his  hand,  and  when  the  cook 


i 


JII.V  1874 


ST.  AANE. 


169 


suddenly  announced  to  him  that  the  Covernor-General 
was  coming  to  lunch  with  Inm,  he  dropped  both  his  cans, 
fell  back  mto  his  chair,  and  shrieked  "Jamais  '  " 

When  we  arrived,  we  found  a  Hag  at  the  gate  and 
one  on  the  house,  and  the  man  and  his  wife— he  not 
sixty,  she  seventy-two,  and  just  married  to  him,  en  sec- 
onJe  /wr^— waiting  to  receive  us. 

The  first  room  of  the  cottage  was  a  big  kitchen,  with 
a  good  cooking-stove;  and  the  room  behind  was  also 
very  large  and  very  clean.  In  three  corners  were  beds 
surrounded  by  chmtz  curtains  hung  from  the  ceiling' 
I  here  was  a  large  stove,  some  chests  for  clothes,  and  a 
cupboard  with  glass  door  containing  china.  A  table  in 
the  middle  of  the  room  was  spread  for  lunch. 

The  old  lady  talked  to  me,  and  seemed  much  amused 
at  our  havmg  so  many  people  to  wait  upon  us.  The 
cook  gave  us  an  excellent  meal,  ending  with  wilo  straw- 
berries, cream,  and  maple  sugar  !  We  soon  after  said 
a  warm  f^^^rewell  to  our  hosts,  and  drove  back  to  "the 
wharf.  We  ought  to  have  seen  a  church  at  St.  Anne 
celebrated  for  miracles  performed  there,  and  in  which 
about  one  hundred  lame  people  have  left  their  crutches- 
but  we  had  not  time  to  visit  it.  ' 

About  eight  in  the  evening  we  reached  Quebec,  and 
just  as  we  landed  the  most  awful  shower  I  have  ever 
seen  came  on,  accompanied  by  thunder  and  lightninir 
I  he  streets  were  literally  flowing  with  water,  and  every 
spout  was  spurting  forth  little  waterfalls. 


p 


CHAPTER   XII. 

ONTARIO    AM)    THE    LAKES. 

IfW;/..v/,n.,  2.V.-0ur  mail  arrived  at  Quebec  yester- 
clay  even.n^r,  and  as  soon  as  we  had  read  our  letters  we 
embarked  on  board  the  DruU,  and  bej-an  our  western 
tour.  We  arrived  at  Trois  Rivieres,  and  the  Mayor 
came  on  board  at  eight  o'clock  this  morning  and  took 
us  ashore,  where  we  found  awaiting  us  a  magnificent 
array  of  firemen,  some  in  helmets  and  plumes,  and  some 
in  tuli  Zouave  costume. 

We  drove  to   the  Town   Hall,  a   new  and  very  large 
room  for  a  town  numbering  only  9,000  inhabitants,  and 
there  we  had  an  address  in  French,  to  which    I)   replied 
iM  the  same  language;  then  we  went  on  to  the  Roman 
tathol.c  Cathedral,  to  a  House  of    Providence,  to  the 
Ursul.ne  (^.nvent.  and  to  the  English  Church,  at   the 
same  time  seeing  the  town,  which  is  very  prettv   with 
many  grass  corners,  some  fine  trees,  and  a  vorv'prctty 
square.     All  this  we  accomplished  bv  9..I0  o'clock,  when 
we  returned  to  our  steamer,  and  a' cannon  announced 
tliat  the  (.overnor-C.enera!  had  gone.      He  soon  after 
emerged  from  his  cabin  as  an  unofficial  tourist,  and  we 
sarted   Ml   three  carriages  to  see  the  Waterfall  of   the 
place;  it  was  twenty-four  miles  off,  and  we  had  to  be 
nack  at  7.,^,  so  wc  had  no  tmic  to  lose.     When  we  got 
to  It,  we  found  a  very  pretty  fall,  though  not,  I  think, 
qu.t-  worth  the  jm.rney.     Close  to  it  there  is  a  curiosity 
in  the  shape  of  an  enormous  hotel,  buried  in  the  bush, 


July  1874 


TOR  OX  TO. 


171 


whlh       '  ,"^   ''^^   '''''  '"  ''"''  "'"--"''  ^"J    into 

«h.ch  no   mortal  guest   has  ever  steppod-the  produce 

of  some  incomprehensible  speculation.     We  rowed  su 

miles  of   the  wav  hiri-    in      1  •        1  ,  •        ^'-^  ^'^ 

_     i"e  waj    Dack    in  a  big,  slow    thing   called   a 

RiviOrcs  ^""^  '"'''  ""'  ^-^^'-'-y^'S  and  returned  to  Trois 

a  nne'nf  T'  "'"'"  ""''  ^'  '  ""'"^'"  "^  >"""«  ''-^^'^^  -"d 
for  which  th""r'\"^'   ^vmptomsof  an   illumination. 

o<f^tarl>,   .n  order  to   reach  Montreal  at  a   particular 

/•////..</</,■,    .V'/.-We    traveled    by   train    as   far   as 
Kingston,  and  thence  by  steamer 

we  l^^'l  'f'r^''''  '  ^''""  "'^^^^  ""  I^-'<e  Ontario. 

guards  of  honor,  etc.,  to  meet  us.  but  found  only  the 
hotel-keeper  of  the  Queen's,  who  said  our  luggage  was 
m  our  rooms  (it  had  arrived  by  train  the  night  before) 
He  ushered  us  into  carriages  and  drove  us  to  his  ho" 
d.  where  we  found  very  comfortable  rooms  arranged 
for  us.  *' 

Colonel  Cumberland,  the  provincial  A.  I)  C    having 
made  all  arrangements   for  us,  we  did  not  even  know 
where  we  were  to  go,  but  it  now  turns  out  that  he  had 
engaged  rooms  for  tis  at  the  Rossin   House;  however 
a   friend    of    the    Queen's    telegraphed    to  the   propri- 
etor of  that   hotel,  and    he  came  to  meet  us,  carried 
off    our    luggage,   showed    us    into    the    Rossin    House 
carnages,  and    drove   to    his  own   rival    establishment 
Our  steamer  was   in  an   hour  earlier  than   it  was  ex- 
pected   and  Colonel  Cumberland  was  walking  up  and 
down   his  veranda  waiting  for  the  proper  time,  and  so 
missed  us. 

I),  received  an  addres.  of  ^.elcnme  ffom  ihe  Town 
Council,  and  walked  about    to   see   the    improvements 


"~r'*t*'^*^^-- . 


I 


172 


AfV  CAXADIAxX  JOURXAI.. 


en.  XII 


in  the  town,  and  at  five  we  had  tea  at  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor's. 

SitturJay,  :?.5-///.— Archie  joined  us.  Directly  after 
breakfast  we  drove  to  the  railway-station,  accompanied 
by  a  ),aiard  of  honor,  and  there  we  found  a  very  smart 
pih)t-enj;ine,  ornamented  with  flowers  and  branches 
and  flajrs;  a  second  one,  equally  ;ray  ;  then  a  .sort  of 
open  carriajre,  witli  a  canvas  awnins;,  with  red  pillars, 
and  jrreen  boujrhs  twisted  about,  and  bou(iuets  in  the 
lamp-stands;  ne.xt  this  we  had  a  very  comfortable  orili- 
nary  railway  carriage,  with  chairs  and  sofas,  but  when  we 
passed  stations  we  went  into  the  open  one,  and  .smiled 
sweetly. 

The  first  place  we  stopped  at  was  called  Newmarket; 
here  we  got  out,  and,  mountinjr  a  stand,  received  two 
addres.ses.  Then  we  jjot  into  carriajres,  and  drove 
throujrh  the  town,  Dassing  under  four  or  five  triumphal 
arches,  to  lay  the  foiiiuiation  stone  of  a  church. 

All  the  country  had  come  into  the  town,  and  almost 
every  house  had  decorations  and  people  in  the  window.s. 
I),  laid  the  stone,  upon  which  "  Straight  forward  "  was 
cnjrraved,  was  given  a  silver  trowel,  and  drove  back  to 
the  train. 

The  ne.xt  ceremony  was  lunch  at  Allendale,  in  a  very 
fine  station  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Simcoe.  It  is  the 
junction  for  Harrie,  of  which  it  has  a  lovely  view;  we 
went  on  there  in  the  train,  and  passed  under  a  fine  krch 
close  to  the  station  at  Harrie.  to  re(>eive  addresses  from 
the  corporation,  and  one  from  the  dergv  of  all  denomi- 
nations  in  the  place.  There  was  a  great  crowd,  and  all 
the  people  we  have  seen  to-day  seem  well-to-do;  so 
well-dressed,  and  (lourishing-looking. 

I  lere  we  left  our  smart  train,  and  got  into  a  "  special  " 
steamer,  in  which  we  had  the  most  delightful  voyage 
across  Lake  Simroe:  the  air  deliciou«,  and  thr  ^.-cnery 


CH.  XII 

Lieutciiant- 

rectly  after 
icconipanied 
i  very  smart 
d  branclus 
n  a  sort  of 
red  pillars, 
nets  in  the 
irtahle  ordi- 
•ut  when  we 
and  smiled 

vewmarket; 
'ceived  two 
and  drove 
B  triumphal 
ch. 

and  almost 
e  windows, 
ivard  "  was 
:c  back  to 

e,  in  a  very 
It  is  the 
'  view ;  we 
a  fine  arch 
L'sses  from 
II  denomi- 
k'd,  and  all 
to-do ;    so 

"  special  " 
Lil  voyage 
»c  scenery 


^'■^^'  '^74  OKILUA. 


beautiful ;  green,  clear  w 


'73 


a  very  distant  shore.     'Ihc  d 
was  perfectif)n. 

About  five  we  came  t 


Iter,  and  wooded   islands,  and 


;iv  war 


m,  but  this  traveling 


the  Narrow 


s,  wh 


an( 


')  a  very  curious  place,  called 
ere  the  steamer  passes  under  two  bridges, 


i  through  a  grass  cutting  ;  h 


HI  each  side,  it  is  nece: 


aviii 


g  only  a  foot  to  spare 


able  to  steer.     Just  bef 


sary  to  go  very  fast  so  as  to  I 


decorated 


with  flags  and  fillfd 


)re  we  got   here  four  st 


)e 


earners 


meet  us,  and  I),  and  I  stood  out 

ami  the  people  waved  their  handkerchiefs  and'chee 
then 


we  went  in  i)rocession  through  the  N 


With  people  came  out  to 

on  the  bows  and  bowed, 

red : 


we  came  in  sight  of  the  hotel  at  which 


arrows. 


loon 


ing;  It  is  built  on  a  promontory,  and 


we  are  now  stav 


in  the  bush  ;  th 


fount 


e  grounds  are  laid  out  with 


IS  a  sort  of  garde 


n 


:iins,   and    with   summer-houses    h 


water.     Having  got  th 


I-ake  Couchicl 

^\'e  passed  it,  however,  for  th 

Oril 
tl 


rough  the  Narr 


grass,  (lowers, 
iMging  over  the 


ows,  we  are  now  in 


'■"g,  and  this  is   the  Couchiching  Hotel. 


iia.     Some  Indians   in  can 


e  moment,  and  went  (»n  t( 


H-ir  nags  were  larger  than   their  1 

ept   making   furious  gesticulations  of  wd 


oes  came  out  to  meet  us 
'joats,  and  one  man 


drawn  saber 


come  with  a 


Oril 


five  arches— i 


la  gave  us  a  great  wel 


come 


there 


were  four  or 


mmense  erections— one  of  them  rather  dif- 


ferent  from  the  ordinarv  i)att 


wasornam.'nted  with  wheat,  and  with  tl 


pattern;  it  was  castellated,  and 


country,  stuffed— a  tl 


various  recesses.     Then  there 
and  good  wishes,   and   the  n 


cer  on  the  top,  birds,  f 


te  animals  of  the 


oxes,  etc.,  in 


oes 


peared,  having  been   inspired  1 


were  all  sorts  of  niott 
time    of  "  Killyleagh  "   ap- 


lielfast 


•y  an  old  shopman  from 


This  plj 


cc  is  on  the  edge  of  the  settled 


on  the  outskirts  of  the  gr.int  now 
It  is  most  flourishing.     We  d 


country,  and 
't  apart  for  emiKfants. 


rove  through  the  town,  and 


i 


it  i 


ill 


in 


i;4 


^/K  CANADIAX  JOUNArAI. 


CH.  XII 

received  two   addresses  on   -i   cfn.wi   •     .t. 
mad.,  our  way  to  the  hr.tfl.  ^leanicr,  and 

We  dmcd  privately,  and  afterwards  were  ceremoni 

to  bed.  ''"'^   "'^^  "'^"^   gladly 

W,/v,  ^rf//,._We  went  by  steamer  to  church  at  Oril 

of  it      Tf  u      '  "-  '^""'^'  ^'^  ask  for  a  conv 

an,,  br„,,«  u  ,„.„e  ..,„e  prcy  „„.  'nea,:  ,  '1  „'  i  t' 
i  red  had  been  miserable  since  we  'irriv^,t   i  ■ 

There  was  a  little  regatta  this  morning,  and    in  In 
<l'an  canoe-race;  I  ,ave  the  winners  of  this  1  st    he" 
prizes,  and  afterwards  we  stirtn,!  in 
I-ak-e  (:ou<:hichinr  ""■  '''''"^"  "^' 

calleci  Kim' "'1?  "!  ''"''""'  '''  ''''  '''  ^"^'-'  reserve 
i«ic   *vtsieyan  missionary  read  an  ad- 


i  hi 
if 


JULV  1874 


MUSKOKA   LAKE. 


175 


d  ess    o  wh.ch  D.  rephed  that  he  was  glad  to  hear  that 
h.s  ch.ldren  were  content,  and  that  it  was  the  intention 
and  endeavor  of  the  Oovernment    to   keep  faith  in  every 
particular  with  the  Indian  subjects,  in  whom  their  j^reat 
Alcnher,    the   ()neen,   took   also   a  special   interest,  etc 
hen  he  presented  the  cha-f,  iSenson,  with  a  History  of 
the  Holy  Land,  illustrated,  and  we  looked  at  the  babies 
who  were  being  carried  about  on  a  novel  sort  of  cradle' 
It  IS  a  flat  board,  on   which  the  child  lies;  at  the  top  of 
U  there  ,s  a  skeleton  hood,  which  can  be  thrown  back  in 
the  house,  while  out  of  doors  it   is  raised,  and  has  iien- 
era lly  a  shawl  thrown  over  it.     It  is  a  most  convenient 
cradle,  as  ,t  can  be  set  up  against  a  wall,  or  hung  up  on 
a  nail,  or  m  a  tree,  the  child  being  ,,uite  safely  tied  into 
't.     It  also  goes  flat  against  the  mother's  back  as  she 
walks  along. 

We  looked  at  the  plain  little  church,  and  went  into 
one  of  the  houses  and  distributed  pipes  and  beads,  and 
then  said  good-by.  They  sang  "  (W.d  save  the  Ou  en  •' 
-n  Indian.  These  are  the  Ojibbeway  Indians.  The  mis- 
s'onary.  his  wife,  and  two  nice  children  came  with  us  to 
the  ne.';t  place- Washago. 

waJlunchin?.  '  ''"'Tr'  railway-station.  hut  there 
was    unch  m  a  car,  an  address,  a  guard  of  honor  and  a 
foundation  stone  of  a  church  to  be  lai<i.     After    h!    we 
J,-t  into  carriages  to  drive  fourteen  miles.     We  st "pi 
twice  on  the  way-at  Severn  and  at  (Jravenhur    !^'n 
received  addresses.     At  each  place  where  this         .s     ' 
makes  a  speech,  instead  of  reading  a  formal  reply     When 
we  left  our  carriages  we  got  on  to  a  steamer  clvered  w 
ags,  and  steamed  along  a  lovely  place,  called  Musko  a 
Uav,  into  Muskoka  Lake,  and  then  through  a  most  curi- 
ous,  narrow  river,  in  which  we  twisted  and  turne<l  roui  1 

islands,  and  had  only  just  room  tn  j., „.:J         ' 

appeared  to  be  going  straight  asho^candlh;::";::;,::^ 


i 


i;6 


iVr  CAXADIAX  JOURXAL. 


if) 


CH.  XII 

«msWeri„g  ,|,at  oi>.|,,\,"  r  *""■"""  ""'"'"f'-lly, 

rciiiarka  >ly  neat  ami  linkl„.,i  i     ,  ""uses  here  are 

is  almost  emireVt' ■l;;;:;':'-'-'""'""''''  """  "-■  l>°P"la,i„„ 

When  wc  returned  to  the  stcim,.r  i  i     . 
w.th  a  very  c:harn.in,.  en.i^ra,         ,  "'  "'  '"^^'^^'^^ 

r..> .  and  made  u,,  <l,eir  ,„i,„|s  ,.,  ct„,c  I  ^ro   ',      '      "" 

fine  boys,  and  she  was  so  merr       „  ,     ,  h  \    "'" 

rajreoiK    Th,.^,  a  ,  .  '"'^'^'^>'  •'"<"  •''<»  nappy  and  cou- 

tin,",    we  IT  "'T'-';'-'"*'^  '"•■  themselves,  and  are  ,.et- 

I'l  .     As  we  passed  throngh  the  lock  between  the  two" 
i)-  stepped  ashore  to  soe-ik  f,,  fl,»  <•  ■  ^"' 

-ii-wed  i„  ,.ea.  has.J  M  "=,•": ';',';;; ;  ;-•  -"  -» 


July  11574 


SI-.T7LF.RS. 


scenerv   -.nri    .V'""-"''"^  ^"  ^^'"  you  particulars  „f  the 

up  a   f,rm,  recfivos  joo  acres  „f  f„rest  fr«      >. 
drove  a,.„„  .,  .„„.  ,,„„„  ,„  ^,„  ..^^^r.^Tlteirti:.': 

cf;'9-:;r;,: ::::  ::;'rr:  «.ri: 

TlK-i,  we  saw  a  Parisian  jeweler-ll,e  merries,  nnn  • 
He  was  lurned  i„i„  a  l,ar,|.w„rki„,,  farmer    an  I 

boys      Aga.n,  we  saw  a  Canadian  and  an   L'^n  sL,l 

-c, rock i,;  la;  ■ .  ^' : .ret'r;..;,;!':''*-''' '"-^ '- 

.ha.  ,.f  an  old  soldier  from  Mea.h,     Me  and  l,i    we  l" 
n...e  eh.ldren,  all  hean.ifnily  dressed  in  white  fro"     > 
as.e.  an  ,  n,   ,l,e  house,  one  wall  was  eovered  : 
"ooks.      I  he  man  was  lon.i  in  his  praises  of  ,he  eountrv 
and  would  advise  everyl.„,l.v  ■„  con.e  here.     The   J     fe 
of  .h,s  l,ne„f  road  is  n,„eh  more  Ihieklv  settled  tha,  we 

f-rr  ■  I,:.::.'" '■"•-™'~.u.,o„arto';"it"i: 

I'inally.  we  arrive.l  at   I'arry  Sonnil,  where  we  h„l 
addresses  and  arches,  and  a  ..sail  "  in  a  stean  ",", 
wc  went  on  board  .he  CNcora,  our  new  home  fur  a  fu,,: 


i 


178 


^fy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XII 

She  is  a  very  large  steamer,  and  was  formerly  a  oele- 
braed  blockade-runner  known  as  the  Letter  V  tl 
sh.-  has  stones  of  cabins  built  on  her  deck.     We  hav« 

:;Ld'r;;r'^--  — --^e.  .rthda,  so^;; 

Wednesday,  ^^M._U'e  left   Parry  Sound  early  in  the 

Nine  steamers  came  out  to  meet  us,  with  flaL^s  and 
passengers      They  turned,  and  followed  us  to  the  to    n 
ere  we  had  addresses,  and  arches,  and  a  drive.     Tu" 
■tie  g,ris  dressed  as  "  Britannia  -  and  "  Canada  "  stood 
at  the  corners  of  the  p,  incipal  arch 

wa>,  and  there  was  a  great  farewell,  with  cheering  and 
shr.ekmg  of  engines,  as  we  parted  company  ^ 

Our   ne.xt   destination   was    Owen    Sound      The  id 
dresses  and  arches  you  may  imagine.     The  feature  «; 

ad  post.lions,  an  outnder  in  uniform  in  front  of  us  and 
about  forty  vehicles  following  us.     We  drove  thrcngh 

Ihe  country  .s  very  beautiful;  the  finest  trees  we  have 

:z::h:;f '  ^-^  ^^^^^^^^-^  --^  ^-^-^^^  ^^^ 

We  returned  on  board  for  dinner,  and  during  that 

r/,«,, ,/,,,.,  j„,/,._,ve  went  i„io  Killarnc-y  (.he  Indru, 
name  of  eh.s  ,lace  signifies  "  here  is  a  cl™  „e  ■     t 
-.,l,.,l  „,,  a  very  narr.n,  passage  >„  reach  it.     Thi.. 
d,a,,s  „re  collected  on  ,l,e  wl.arf,  an.i  r,re,l  a    1  „ 
One  of  them  „,ade  a  speech  to  I.,s  Ex.,  «„pp,„g  Tl^^ 


1! 


CH.  XII 

rmerly  a  gcIo- 
•tter  //.  Now 
^•k.  We  have 
rthday,  so  he 

early  in  the 
ourselves  off 

ith  flags  and 
to  the  town, 
tlrive.  'I' wo 
nada  "  stood 

)ut  for  some 
hcering  and 

d.  The  ad- 
;  feature  of 
four  horses 
it  of  us,  and 
ve  through 
a  waterfall, 
es  we  have 
ike  than  is 

luring  that 
a  magniti- 
taking  in 
en  a  letter 

tlie  Indian 

'it'l  ").  and 

The  In- 

a  salute. 

ng  at  the 


jfi.v  1874 


MA  AV  TO  {  7.  /X  IXDIA  XS. 


179 


end  of  each  sentence  to  have  it  translated  into  English  • 
Us  reply  went  through  the  same  process.  \Vc  also' 
spoke  to  the  women  and  looked  at  the  church,  and  d,s- 
tnbuted  knives,  p.pes.  tobacco,  and  l,eads.  There  was 
one  funny  old  man  with  a  drum,  who  to.,k  to  dancini: 
and  smgmg  before  us. 

At  one  o'clock  we  came  to   another  Indian   settle- 
ment-Manitoulin.     The  Indians  here  seemed  verv  poor 
and  the  one  who  made  the  speech  spoke  much  'to  this 
effect:     MVe  are  glad  to  see  you  ;  our  wives  and  our 
chddren  are  glad  to  sec  you.  our  father.     We  have  come 
far  to  see  you,  and  have  brought  our  wives  and  our  chil- 
dren to  see  you;  and  we  arc  hungry,  for  we  have   had 
nothmg  to  eat."     I),  ordered  them  a  barrel  of  flour  and 
a  hundred-weight  of  pork.     When  he  replies  to  the   In- 
dians, they  give  a  deep  grunt  at  the  end  of  each  of  his 
sentences,  which  has  a  most  peculiar  effect. 

They   sometimes   give   me   presents   of   their  work 
which  I  immediately  pay  for.     At  this  last  place  there 
are  Kpiscopalian  and  Wesleyan  missi<,naries  ;  and  at  Kil- 
larney  we  saw  a  Roman  Catholic  priest,  who  came  in  our 
steamer,  greet  his  flock  in  a  very  affectionate  manner 

Ihe  evening  was  a  little  rough,  but  we  stopped  at 
Urucc  s  Mines  for  the  night. 

Friday,  j/.sA-At  si.x  in  the  morning  we  went  ashore  to 
see  the  copper-mines,  which  are  not  flourishing,  though 
the  ground  ai>pears  to  be  covere.i  with  the  mineral,  and 
we  picked  up  a  great  many  specimens. 

On  our  way  to  Sault  Stc.  Marie  we  passed  through  a 
very  beautiful  and  curious  place  called  the  Devil's  Cap 
I  here  are  a  number  of  islands,  so  close  together  that  li 
.s  impossible  to  see  the  way  between  them  till  you  come 
straight  opposite  the  channel,  and  then  the  view  down 
each  passage  is  very  pretty.  The  one  we  passed  thr-uurh 
seemed  only  just  large  enough  to  hold  our  great  steamer 


It 


i8o 


^rV  CAA-ADIAX  JOURXAL. 


TH.  XII 

'-i  i-  I 'he  IT  "'  """""""  ^^•■""'-'" 

'"  l;;:;'ts  to  see  a  Hu.lson's  Day  seflcme,,,.  '    '"  " 

wore  d,ess,„g  ,„eir  ehil.hen's  hair  n,uch  after  He^^a 
ner  „f  he  ,,,„„key,,  in  the  Zoo.  Those  are  ,l,e "owe 
class  of  liKJMns  we  have  seen 

Wand"wh?dH""""  "■'■■  '?"""  "■"■^'^Ivos  off  Miehipieo.en 
sand,  .h„  I    ,s  supposed  eo  be  very  rich  i„  a^-a,  .,.  |,„t 
all  .hose  on  ,l,e  surface  have  heon  already  picl'd  ,p   ' 

^^m)  keeps  the  Li^^luiu.usc  ^^■u■e  me  a  good  c.ne  and  -iko 
presented  us  with  three  splendui  ir.n.t  ' 

.J/W.,    ,V._.(),,  „,,t  stopping.phice  was  Nipigon 
AVe  passed  through  some  very  pretty  scenerv  in  .- 
to  it     lii,riw>-i  I        •        ^  l'''-^^}  sccner)  in  coming 

7       H  "T.ons-shapecl  lulls-and  anchored 

ver    wher        ""  '     'f  ""'""""  ^"  "^  ■""'""  <>'  '!> 
h  ,,    ,l,e  s.ore  and   make  purchases  for  o„    nshing 
„''";"-'■'"",  '■'^■"-■'""•"'■-knives,  blankets,  tin  plates 
n."Ss,  lookms-slasses,  .lies,  e,c.      There  we;e  a  good 


AUG.  1874 


CAMp/.vc  our. 


i8r 


many  Indians  sittinjr  about   and    I)   ,v,  1   .u 
one  „r.,  „„„  «„„/,  .„■„;.:         ./   ^  'T^'   '" 
tl.".K  »a,  ,„  pack  our  ca„.,e,.     We    .^j  „  '  l'      I"  ""' 
painted  white   uift,  rr„;        ,     ,     '*'"^^"\t-'-     Ours  was 

it  .ot  D.  and  'Lt      F,    ;i  r  Arch-  '1  ''''"'  =  "''  ^'^^ 
our  blankets.  I  gga.e   .r  d  t  -nf       n    ""'  ""'"''  ^"^^  ^" 

'      '•  '^'"«  iv\f)o  IS  lookinc- after    Arrlii^^    n     .   ■ 
W.lson  (our  guide),  Mr.  Dixon  (Arch    's  t       ,  '      7  "" 

canoe,  we  passed  ..^^  T  „    eri^rt:;:/"  •'"'"  ""^ 

made  quite  a  respectable  lake      Ve  ell        "'■"."••''<^'> 

«-.>li  a  rapid  rushing  pas,  it  w„i,  h  ,        f  P"'""'"'^- 

our  canipi„j.,,l.,,.,.    r  *=  "'""*>''"  niittht  he 

1114^111^  place  ,  so  we  jrot  ouf   anri  t  k 

and  very  s„„„  la„de,l  a  ro.hI  trout'  Th,        "^"  '°  "'*''• 
"'d.     Ulien  the  rest  of  .7  '"^  '"ur-ouiicc 

•hat  this  was  „:,";?L„S:;  --  -;i>,  .hoy  told  „s 
rapid  and  portage  agat      u      .  T  "'  '""'  '"  ""»»  "« 

campingjound    ittron      e,an'"':\j'""^r'-^' 

a,nll.riir;:;,::.;;^::['\-,''^-"'  '^"•■"  »•■-'■  i- 

"  oorner  in  it.     Coi:     '  Z^'u:T;""^f  \"  """ 
which  comes  out  of  hi,  earplt  h,j        ,     I!"';'    '""  "-"'■ 

and   Lady  Harriet      All  ,  u^'      ''  "'""■''  ''"'''^  '""■ 

„„,  H_    '  narnet.     All  the  other  gentleman   sVen  i„ 
0"=  large  ntar.uee;  and  the  men  have  three  more  tents! 


;i 


very  hot,  and  I  felt  the  sun  rithor         i  "   ""■''' 

who  seemed  very  n  ce   Lop  e      s         r  '^°''"'■'- 

acrossthe..er.ias:n!;r:;an^;:;i;:;!:r::r' 

i:^Lh:;;;u\:.;:;:t:-7--ner--;;^: 

river    to^^ethe        H  re      T  V"''"  ""'  '"^'^^  ^"""  ^^e 
fished.     On   one   "  e  o         "n    ""    "'''"   '^   ^"^'^^    ^"d 

end  of  his  rod  aJ-,,-1,-  .  ''  '^  ^f^"""  '^^  the 

Doctor  a.::ti^i:r  'Ze'V^^;;'r" '-'  --'  ^^^ 

thensh(of  which   thee   ar.  '  ^'■""'   ''''^^^"'^^ 

gorged  with  shad  fl  esTnd     ..r""''"\""^   '"^^^'^'^•>' 
baits.      Those    we   d  .V     V ,  '''"'"  ^"^  ""'"  ^'^''i^^te 

weight.     The  CO  ,k      h  ""'   ^'""^   ^""    ''-"^« 

up  a   f  enlace    tr         ''"*''"'     ''"'  '"'""  '''"^'■^  '-^"'^  ^^'^^^ 
cellent  dh^r       i    "'"r  ^'^•/^-•''^'-^  -  with  an  e.v- 

very  cin^Sr ^n^rr^' "-rr'^  ""^-'-^ 
-si^read  with  fir-bon.l  '      ,     .         ""^    "^    ''^^    ^^^^^    was 

'i.'^;;y.can.t;:st^in;:t:;::;;"^"^^^^^--'- 

■    ed     vard,  the   Doctor,  and  Captain 


% 


Al-C.  1874 


n 


PORTAGES. 


I  S3 


^Vilson,  went  off   to   see  I  .ke   V    •  ''  ^ 

«'-^ty  miles  lo„^^     u^  the   e       •    ''''^"*"'  ^^''^''^^h  is  al„.„t 

w^^'ch  w...  s-nall.  "  '""'''  '^  'O"  ihcr  luck- 

ThursJav    6th T      \ 

;-'^  a  poru,e.  and  a::iv:d  .u  the  V'"''     '''  ^'^^-' 
'"•■f   <'"e   j.st    before    lunch    ''^V    "'',""' "^'  '''  '''""''- 
^-^i'  appetites  as  wc  all   ,     ,  ;     ,,''"'    '''^^    "--   sec. 
cleared    every    p,ate       7-,u,s    ,,    '  "^^^  ravenous,  and 
-i^-^'",  everybody  carrvin'onut"'     '"''■'    "^^   -^'-'^"^ 
gentlemen  with  great   o'l  "^^'  "'"'  ^^"'-*  "^  the 

.^^''-•"we,ot\r;r;;T.f';;"'''"'-^- 

vva.t  some  ti.ne.  as   the  m  n   h  .         ^"'''"'^'''^  ''''  '''''^'   ^^> 
canoes  had   to  make  tuoT  "^'  '"  ""'"''y  ^^er   the 

into  the  canoes  :!T^.^T  ^'  '^  ^^■'•^"  ^  ^^>^ 
camped  at  the  .^,,exa„^cCT  ••":'?' "''^'^-  ^^'^ 
you  of  before-a  chirmin^  ^'     ''''"'^'-    ^  ^ave  told 

ter  than  at  the  cnft^^rr^l'  "/  '"'  "^'^'"^  ""  ^^  ^ 
-uld  see  Archie  catci  a  ,ou  "m  '  ''"""^'  '''^'  >'-' 
ashore  he  hugs  it  m  his  arm.  -i  '"  '"'''"'  '^"  ^^^^«  '^ 
^he  danger  of  losing  it  onTv  hi  ''""•'  '"  ^''""^-   "''''^ 

-ftered  greatly  in^""  'st  f'T  ""  '"^'-  ^'^  ->^'^ 
caught  one  tro.u,  and  then  we  f',  ''  ^"^  ^  --'^ 
at  the  camp-fire,  and  sk.pt  "'''  ''"•''^^'^'^  '^"'"^^'v^'^ 

Pot^i::d'%^;;[2kc:^^::^^;^;-' ^•;ts  ^-^  ^^^^^^c,  and 

^^<-'  '-ad  a  p.casant  v  .  ^'■''^  '"  ^'^^'  ^anoe. 

^oun.  her  beaut  f:i:raC^7         ^'^^' ^'^"--. -^1 
^numphal  arch  at  the  ton  of  !  ^^'^  ^^ception,  a 

^vreathsover  all  the  doo  ^  Id  !  '""^^^r'""'  ^"^  green 
'i^-^-  We  lunched  dev  It.  ^'"'' ^'"""^ '^^^  ^-''^"^c- 
-ash  after  four  nighu  of  '  '^  '""■  ^°  ^  tremendous 
-  little  extra  finery  as  a  react;  ^""^■""''  ""^'  ^'•^^>'cd  in 
Crauford,a  lady  who  had  '  n"'  """'  '"  ''"  "P""  ^^^«- 


Il'^ 


^'''eiih  butt 


er. 


a  jar  of  most  del 


icious 


]:'■!■ 


i 

'1 

-■'It 

t 

^^^^^^eI  ^' 

i 

^Hl 

HH!f 

i 

184 


Ji/y  CAXADIAA'  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XII 


It 


th 


is  six  o'clock,  and  \vc  ha 


c  t'V 


ve  just  sailed  awav ;  and 


er-roiigh  surface  of  I,akc  Superior  lies  bef 


I),  has  been  doing  several  portraits  of  Iiid 


ore  us. 


ians.     ']"he 
nes  are  curious,  and  we  made  the 


translations  of  their  iiar 

a(;(|uanuance   of   a  "  Xaughtv  little  W 

who  cries  with  Joy,"  and  of  •• 'l-he  Cloud  tl 


oinan,"  of  "She 


Siiiur,i,iv,  A't/t.~Vh 


lat  is  past, 
ere  was  a  fog  on  the  Lake,  so 


remained  at  the  entrance  to  it  all  ni-rht   b 


we 


in  th 


e  ni( 


)rning,  and  arrived  at  Silver  Islet  in  fo 


lit  got  off  early 


hours,  having  to  pass  through  a  d 


»iir  way  there.     The  island  itself 
nally  seventy  by  eighty  feet;  but  it  has  be 
increased  fifty-seven  times  that 


ur  or  r   e 

isagreeable  swell  on 

s  a  mere  rock,  origi- 


docks  built  all 


round  it. 


en  artificially 
size  by  breakwaters  and 


gan  to  work  the  mines,  but,  jrett 


A  Canadian 


company  first  be- 


sold  them  t 


o  a 


n  American  com|)anv,  wh 


getting  into  difiiculties,  they 


'"«:  a  great  deal  of  monev.      Th 


kee| 


ping  out  the  water,  as  the  "Islet"  onl 


above  the  level  of  the  Lake.     We 
mainland  in  a  tug,  and  saw  all  that  coul 


o  are  now  mak- 

ere  is  great  expense  in 

y  just   rises 


out  actually  going  down  the 


went  over   from  th( 


tl  be  seen  with- 


lik> 


patterns  in  a  sort  of  whit 


mine.    The  silv 


er  is  in  fern- 


of  the  undortak 


talks  of  going  honu-  tl 


ing  isa"Krew"  fr 


quartz.     The  "  Captaii 


oin  County  Down,  and 


his  mother  in  M 


lis  year  to  put  up  a  monument  t 


Yo 


ingor  Churchyard 


o 


u  see.  we  are  constantly  meeting  successful  people 


fr(mi  that  renowned  county 


We  |)roceeded  on 


Tape— high  basalt 


our  journey,  and  passing  Thund 


me 


ic  rocks,  in  |)la 


ler 


piece  of  scenery~g,,t  into  Thund 


at   Prince  Arthur's   Land 


res  very  precijiitoiis,  a 
er  May.     We  landed 


(Icr  a  very  hot  sun.     This  i 
years   old;    it    looked   very   pre 


injf,  and  received  an   add 


ress 


ex 


quite  a  new  town— four 
tty,  every  house   beinir 


corated  with  green,  and  a  (p.antitv  of  Ha^s  al 
pects  to  become  a  great  city.     I) 


us  about.     It 


went  out  for.'i  ilr 


i 


Al-G,  IS 74 


fXn/.IXs  AT  SUKBAXDOiVAX. 


185 


» »  e  asked  suiiic  irLMUl(H)..ti  .      r 

the  deck  and  looked   ■".'''""■-'"^"--^''■> 

youn,.  „.en  went  to  a  d       ;  ":;;'''-^  •^^'''^^        "-' 
very  much  '  '""^  ''"J^*>^'^  tiicmselves 

"■7';  "i.cre  „.  „„„,,..„  j'i  ' ,    '::;;;;;,"■;>:  -"'- 

I  >»<-ii,in  smaller  carrKiL'-cn      U'.. -.   .       /•  , 

■^a.u,.,«,,  ......  „.,  fuu,,/:,;,,, ";,:  „^:  «'>■  ■;-  ■7-. 

Stipend.  '  ''"'  ""'"■  aiimial 

They  were  more  savatrp  ffnn  fi, . 
fore,  and.  thon,h  n,os    of',,      'I  "^r"'    "'  "'"^  '^• 
they  had  some  svmntom  ,     '■"'''""  ••'"^'"-'«' 

Who  sat  ,.n  the  .'rmn  /',  ""'''  '""  '"^'^J'-i"^-men. 

v"y  much  .„  ,„',.,„  ;■„';;,,  "^  ""••;">'■  ■■■  «y 

pi|HS.  knivc,  „„,|,   „,  ,  „    VK^'-fK-,^  ""•111  vnlh  t.,l>a,v„. 

•>'  '..rch.baric,  w.,ici,  iu.,i,.;j.:: .;:,';'  ""•'"•""  "•-''•- 

inside.  ''^'^^'0  roomy  and  clean 


I: 

'I 


I 


1 86 


M  Y  CAN  AD/ A  X  JO  L'RXA  I.. 


til.  XII 


f' 


v'c  tlu;n  ^iA   \n\.o  a  lar^c  canoe,  and  were  tugged 


al)oul  the  Slicbaiidowan    I.ak 


wa 


y  of 


e,  a  very  i)lcasant  and  cool 


nio 


ving  about,  compared   to  tlie  carriage.     W 


er  nine  ;  so  we  dined  at 


did   not  get   back   to   tlie   sleeping-place,  which  we  had 
passed  on  our  way  here,  till   aft 
once,  and  went  early  to  bed.     We  slept  in  a  cottage,  and 
the  lletchers  in  a  tent. 

Tufsiiiiy,  ////i._\Ve  were  again  called  at  five,  and 
found  a  wet  morning— such  a  wet  morning  !  However,  we 
iireakfasted,  and,  hoping  for  the  best,dr( 
wagon  for  live  miles  to  the  borders  of  the  K 
River,  where  we  got  intc 
I  m 


)veinour  sliak 


y 


imanisti(|wa 


canoes  to  paddle  si.xtv  miles. 
ly  say  here  that  the  river  is  evidently  lovely,  and 
had  the  day  been  fine  we  should  have  enjoyed  it  im- 
mensely ;  but  the  weather  was  perfectly  awful,  a  thunder- 
shower  lasting  till  one  o'clock,  which  wetteil  us  to  the 
skin  long  before  that  hour. 

During  this  downi)our  we  had  to  get  out  of  the  canoes 
eight  times  to  make  jiortages,  and  you  may  imagine  how 
miserable    we    were    walking   through  narrow   path> 


s  in 


dripping  wooils,  our  clothes  heavy  with  rain  !  The  worst 
bit  of  walk  led  to  a  magnificent  waterfall,  which  was 
W(;ll  worth  seeing,  even  though  we  had  to  stumble  over 
rocjts  and  trunks  of  trees,  and  in  and  out  of  pools  of  wa- 
ter, to  get  to  it.  It  is  1 20  feel  high,  and  very  grand. 
At  one  we  lunched,  and  the  r.iiii  (eased ;  we  lit  a  f 
and  dried  our  cloaks,  but  of  course  could  do  iiothi 
to  our  boots  or  underclothing.  A  tlish  of  hot  pota- 
toes brightened  us  up.  and  we  got  on  pretty  well  till 
7..?o  p.  M.,  wlien  we  reached  a  place  where  a  steamer  w.is 
to  meet  us.     We  had  been  looking  forward  with  1 


ire, 


to  this  happy  termination  of  our  troubles;  but  wl 


got  there,  we  found  that   tlie  steamer  had 


onging 
len  we 


and  had  left  ten  minutes  bi'fore  I     W 


given  us  up, 


e  were  in  despair  at 


the  idea  of  a  further  ten  miles'  paddle,  but  the  ca 


iioe 


AUG     1S71 


SAC  IT  STE.   MARIE. 


187 


men  bore  it  with  great  jjood-humor,  and  immediately 
started  ulf  to  race,  by  way  of  enlivening  the  time,  and  it 
was  very  pretty  to  see  our  five  canoes  shooting  through 
the  water.  Our  patience  was  rewarded,  and  our  misery 
was  soon  changed  into  joy,  for  some  wise  friend  ..ent  the 
steamer  back  ;  and  when  we  met  her  we  were  comforted 
by  a  cup  of  the  l)est  hot  coffee  I  ever  tasted. 

We  had  promised  to  visit  an  Indian  Mission  on  our 
way,  and  so  we  did;  but  the  children  there  had  all  gone 
to  bed  when  wc  arrived,  and  so  we  just  peeped  at  their 
Iitt!t   l.irk  heads  as  they  lay  asleep. 

We  reached  the  Chicvra  about  nine,  and  took  off  our 
damn  things  at  once.  I  was  rather  ill  in  the  night,  but 
none  of  us  caught  cold  or  were  really  hurt  by  the  wet- 
ting. 

Thursday,  13th.— Wt  reached  Sault  Ste.  Marie  early 
this  morning,  having  made  a  quick  passage  from  Thun- 
der I5ay  across  the  terrible  lake.     Captain  Wilson,  before 
giving  up  his  post  as  guide,  took  us  down  the  rapiils  here 
which  are  very  long  and  exciting;  and  then  we  bade  fare- 
well t.,  him  and  to  the   Doctor.     We  have   like.l   them 
both  very  much,  and  they  have  been  a  great  addition  to 
our  parly,  so  wc  were  sorry  to  sav   good-bv.     Dr   King 
IS  an  Englishman,  but  has  joined  the  United  States  \rmv 
Ue  had  a  very  pretty  sail  down  Lake  Huron,  and  ar- 
rived  at   Mackinaw  late  in  the  evening,  anchoring  in  a 
little  harbor  which  only  just  held  us. 

/>/.%,  I4th,~\  delightful  voyage  down  I.akeMi.hl- 
Ran. 

Saturday,  /J///.~This  morning  we  came  in  sight  of 
Chicago.  A  tug  came  off  with  our  Consul  (Mr  War- 
wick)  m  full  uniform,  who  told  us  all  the  arrangements 
that  have  been  made  for  our  reception.  The  weather  in 
beautiful. 

We  lunched  early,  and  immediately  after  the  Com- 


;l 


X\ 


ill 


1 88 


J/K  CAXA/UAX  JOCAW'AL. 


ki  iwjji 


CH.  XII 

mittee  of  Reception  came  on  board.  The  President  of 
the  Committee  is  from  Cuiiiuy  Down  (Mr.  Dickson)  and 
his  wife  was  a  Miss  Reid,  and  was  at  Killyleagh  the  day 
of  our  marriage.  He  is  very  luippy  here,  andis  pleased 
at  being  so  well  acquainted  with  us.  Another  member 
IS  from  Killmchy  (more  County  Down). 

Wlien    D.   had   si)oken  to  all  the  committee,   «e  ad- 
journal to  the  immense  drawing-ro.mi  of  a  gigantic  hotel  ■ 
there  we  were   introduced    to   the    Mayor,  who   made  a 
si)eech,  to  which  His  Kx.  replied;  then  to  the  I'lesident 
of    the    ]ioard    of    Trade,   t(,   the    Presidents   of  the  .St 
George,  St.  .Andrews,  and  the  Caledonian  Societies,  who 
all  mades  peeches,  which  were  all  rei)lied  to;  also  to  the 
Governor  of  the  State ;  and  1  think  there  must  have  been 
more,  but  1  can  not  remember  them.    Some  unoflicial  in- 
troductions  followed,  and  then   we  got  into  the  first  of 
sixty  barouc^hes  to  drive  through  the  town.     We  saw  the 
extent  of  the   fire  of   ,871,  and  the  wonderful   wav   in 
which  the  city  has  risen  from  its  ashes;  also  the  effects 
of  a  second  enormous  fire  Inst  July:  streets,  churches, 
etc..  all  in  ruins. 

What  1  think  is  really  beautiful  here,  is  a  drive  by 
the  shores  of  T.ake  Michigan  :  the  water  is  a  lovelv,  deli- 
cate blue-green  color,  there  is  no  land  in  sight,  the  beach 
IS  charming,  and  the  lake  is  covered  with  ships  'I'his 
drive  forms  part  of  a  very  pretty  park,  in  which  there 
are  small  lakes,  zoological  gardens,  etc.,  and  lots  of  peo- 
plo  about,  in  carriages,  and  boats,  sitting,  walking  and 
picnicking~the  most  Hyde  Park-like  thing  I  have'seen 
oil  this  continent. 

Wc  next  visited  the  Waterwork.s,  which  are  enor- 
mous. 

We  passed  twice  under  the  river  through  massive 
tunnels,  and  saw  a  number  of  very  handsome  new 
streets. 


Ave.  1874 


CHICAGO. 


1   are  enor- 


realize 
s   on 


189 

The  Consul  sent  me  some  beautiful  flowers  and  fruit 

dont    attempt     much    description   of    Chicauo-a 

gUKe-book    and   statist.cs    would    be   recjuired       I Cn 

hardly  be  , eve  I  am  here,  and  shall  certa.nly  not  r 

Monday,  of  which  one  has  always  heard 

Mr   I^.kson  and  his  w.fe,  the  Consul  an<i  his  sister 

Tr^r'li    T    ■  ?'  "^'  '"   '^^^'"^"^   '^^  ^'-   '^'-^  '^ 
the  hotel  where  we  are  to  stay-the  "  Palmer  House  - 

It    IS  a  palace:    marble    staircases,   bn.ad    nass-urp« 
ha^uisomely  carpeted,  and   furnished  .JithcnLr^^^^ 
ofas   and    cluurs;    chimney-pieces  fron.   Italv,  in  lof  y 
00ms  also    beautifully   furnished;    pier  Klas::s-eve  y 
iuxury,    n.   fact.     Kach    bedroom  opens  into    T  sitt  "' 
room,  and   off   mine  there  is  a  bath-room  with  h  t     'd 
CO  d  water  la.d  on.    The  bedroom  has  velvet-pile  Lr      s 
with    Aubusson    patterns,    plain    crimson   curtains,   and 
ca.rs     such   as   I   wish   I  ha.l   in  n.y  drawing-room  at 
Clandeboye. 

When  we  arrived  we  were  presented  to  the  manager 
were  seated  in  a  comfortable  room,  and  were  "  elevated  •' 
to  our  flat.  The  manager  walked  along  and  talked 
amicably  to  ns.  Pointing  out  the  sitting-room  he  said, 
Ih-sis  the  young  gentlemen's  room";  and  then.  lay. 
'n«:  hold  (,f  I),  s  arm  with  both  hand.s,  added,  "  I  don't 
know  whether  you  are  to  be  counted  among  them,  my 

.SW,,r,  /<<//,.-.Such  a  breakfast !  No  wonder  Ameri- 
cans  despise  our  efforts  in  the  way  of  hotels.  lUing  out 
"»  the  Dominion,  we  arrange<:  to  have  our  meals  in  the 
Pt.blic  rooms,  so  we  went  into  breakfast  in  an  e.M.rmous 
hall,  and  sat  at  a  small  table.  There  were  two  smaller 
ro,,ms  olf  ,t.  fined  with  table.,  and  quantities  of  black 
waiters  to  attend  upon  the  people,  and  a  lengthy  bill-of- 


\A 


*  'f 


If 


**¥¥«*MX»w««»,M 


190 


^/y  CAXADIAX  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XII 


fare  to  select  from.     I  „„„  ,,y   t,,„  ,,„    ,,i 

crTf,','"  f"  h"'  "'"'7'"''  "'"'^'  "•''^-  '?«»  a„/„,„  ! 
try,    dii    or    tne   verv    hf^tf     -i.-.,)    ;» 

,        •  ^   very  Dtst,  and   It  was  amus  nL--  to  spp 

liow  It  was  all  managed.  ^ 

I  went  to  a  church  which  was  in  mourning  for  a 
b.shop,  and  we  had  a  curious  sermon  in  his  praise  His 
'-i-s  ry.  h.s  good  manners,  his  beautiful  Vre  h  "  e 
graceful  way  .n  which  he  could  pav  a  co„>p,i„,en  'e 
were  .  .  set  before  us  with  much  gesticulation  In  i; 
P.te  of  a  1  that  was  odd  in  the  description  of  him  we 
ece.ved  the  .mpression  of  his  having  been  a  really  ^Z 

wa    '^d     e'-  ".'  ""  '""  '"  church,  and  the  singing 
was     done     by  two  men  and  two  women 

Ihe    manager   of   the   Hotel    has    placed    the   most 
magnihcent    flowers    in    my    room     "with    hi« 
,„^.„t^..  ^     "'^'"'      «"»    his   compu- 

that  arinstTh'''^  '"'  ""'^  "'  "^  ^^'-^^""^'-'^  ''^''•--'y- 
inat  against  the  American  hotel  system-    -,n,l    r  »i,    i 

their    ladies   dress   well;    they   havtut^'^r^^^ 
knack  of  putting  on  things.     We  saw  .Lme  girls  i 
Park  with  the  commonest  untrimmed  harvest  hats  -    d 
hey  looked  smart  in  them  ;  black  or  gray  i    Impost ' 
■rely  worn,  but  the  simplest  materials'ar       ad     "and 
|>ut  on  in  a  successful  way.  ' ' 

All  'Ihi' r  "■"°"''  ""  "'"  '"'"  "-^  •  •"•^-  f"  a  little 
All  the  (.crman  p„,.„lati„„    were   out,  sittin.r   „„   ,,, 

«™s  ,  r„w,„B  ,n   boats,  eatin,.  their  dinners,  and  sL  d 

fine  elk  M  ,"""'''  "'  "  ''""'"'""  °f  »■•""■"»  ■■  t»o 

tme  elk,  a  small  hon,  two  gri..ly  boars,  two  buffaloes, 

The  drive  by  the  Lake  was  crowded  with  carriage. 


AUG.   1874 


THE  PALMER  HOUSE. 


191 


cocks'"'  '"  "°  """'"■  ^"^'  ''^5  n.en-scrvants,  and  ,8 
me  joints  are  on  hot   n  ates   with  fh»;r 

.-  before  ,,,e„. ;  .,,„!,„,:,::  r  :.•:",:'",;:,;:: 

he  wall ;  the  first  was,  •■  N„  servant  is  ever  tr,  tell  a  ie"t 

::'::.i:era;:r^"*'''^"-"'"'-^^----''""^; 
.no:i?;:^--:srtrc'^tr7"-; 

caldrons  for  son,,,  si.  l,ro,li„,  p,,^  f:  ...f    .f,™, 
one  for  mutton   another  for  veal,  etc., etc., and  places  ,,' 

cH,c.e      h,„,,^,,,.    ,-,--- 

rh';n".'i^[r:;:i:ir'' '"'"  -  ice.et,ph„ard"i„  ;h: 

,hJl'\"""""'""'"  •■"'  ^''^"'"  '^'■"P'-     »■•=  also  visited 
the    l,ake.roon-.,   where    excellent    hread    is   mide       h, 

;;;t'h:;::'''"-'-'-™'--«-::^::-:::; 

''laik  vc  vet.  but   ovpr\'   I^o^»      r  .1      ■ 

ffeous       Tl,  •   ■'         "^  ^'''"  ''""^^-  ■'^  most  ffor. 

Reous.       I  he   bar-room  is    very    lanre    -mrl    u.     . 

twelve  billiarcl.tal,les  in  it.     Tl  ev  Inv;  m      .  '"  .'" 

I'cious  lemonade  there   •  nd  l\  ?       \  '"'"'  ''"• 

'  "''^  J"^<  I'njov  nt'  it  when 
a  message  came  to  .say  the  "  Hoard  of  Trade  "  ^to  w      h 
I  had  not  .ntendcd  to  go)  did  expert  m..-/!.^' 
get  on  my  bonnet  at  once.  '     ~'  " 


1  ■■  ■ 


N' 


If 


W*%<ls,«u,ia(,«ii. 


192 


vI/K  CANADIAA'  JOUKXAL. 


i!  ■      ! 


CH.  XII 

now  address  y„' ■■     ,:.:;;:.:"     "'•  *-'""""•'  »■" 

^'.oouJus  :u,,:;"i  ::':;,;;''= '''"'"™-"<'« 

.l.e  H',"d'''rr;',":""'  '"  ""'."'■^"''  ''"^'"'^  Ho.el,  Where 

I'le  Hoard  of  I  rade  jrave  us  luncheon 

ment  be  ter  dnne,   or  with  more   taste.      A    ha.ul  was 

s^a^ned   ,n  the  passage,  which  played  .n;ocir:: 
Q^een,     and  other  music.      The  lunch  was  cold,   with 
the  exception  of  hot  turtle  soup  and  coffee 

1  l)e  table  was  T-shapcd,  and  we  sat  at  the  top   hav 
.no  one  opposite  us.     A  row  of  black  waite^st     d 

bu      ^'"^'"/T"-      ^^'''^    ^-'^    white   aprons 
black    a.l-coat.s  and  white  gloves,  and  looked  so    unny 

chl:      ''."'•"'""    "'''^^"    '^''^"^    crossed  over    their 
cheats;  when  a  signal  was  given,  they  all  marched  in  to 

St,>^varcr  tI'   '"^"  r  '^^'"'«^^'  ^'"^'  ^'--  ^^'  t'- 
•I Ivr  J  [  '  •^■'^li-nery,  into  which  a  pig  walks 

'»''^e  at  one  end.  and  .omes  out  a  ham  at  thn  \L.   Zl 


CH.  XIT 

als  conducted 
II  room  at  the 
but  what  was 
the  enormous 
with  people  ! 
them,  and  the 
silence,  said : 
Canada  will 
ite  unawares, 
to  speak  at 
outside,  and 
sinjr  through 
;  but  he  was 
-eived.     'I"he 
nd   then   the 
le  presented 
)rm,  and  we 

iiotel,  where 

n  entertain- 

^    band  was 

)d  save  the 

cold,   with 

le  top,  hav- 
iters  stood 
ite  aprons, 
d  so  funny 
over  their 
rched  in  to 

ove  to  the 
pig  walks 
other,  had 


AIG. 


1874 


just  stopped  work 


There 
I 


were  yards  full  of 


THE   SHOPS. 
^^  but  it  was  fully  explained 


njoyed  the  drive  there,  and  if 


(■')ws  waitin;;,r  to  be  sold. 


»93 

to  us. 


very  long,  the  drive  h 


it  had  not  been  so 


and  even  in  my  state  of  f, 


ome  would  have  been  deligh 


J  was  so 


surprised  to  fmd 


.    .  ightful, 

■'tigue  It  interested  me  much. 


"S  Of  broad  carriage-drive,  the  edg 


""le  miles  of  boulevards-tJ 


lat 


off,  trees  planted 


and  parts  fdled  with  fl 


on  either  side,  parts  of 


es  beautifully  finished 


villa? 


and 


streets,  i 


owers.     Then  there  are  b 


n  which  each   house  I 


't  park-like, 
't-*aiitiful 


of  hiwn  and  garden.  I  had  tl 
a  money-making  place,  and  d 
much 

place. 


las  its  own   bit 


"k'ht  of  Chicago  only 
'tl  not  expect  to   find 


spent  on  beautifying.    I  am  delighied 


as 

so 


with  it— th( 


I  iiad 


an  h 


to  receive  any  people  wh 


r^":!'.:^'"  "":"■"■"'->"  "™<i-sed 


man 


o  might  come  t 


afier  sent^  Lady  Harriet  and  me  bea 


for  the  occasion,  and  wh 
room  the  flowers  were  a  b 


en  we  went  into  his  d 


o  see  us.     'J'he 

utiful  bouquets 

rawing. 


covered  with  bou,,uets,  which  . 
each  lady  as  she  came  in  •  tl 


to 


over  flowers 


'»'if"l  sifflU.     One  table  was 
were  afterwards  presented 


;  tlie  cliimncv-ni 


pieces,  etc.,  all 


A  number  of  pcopl 


among  them.  Murdoch  bv  nam;,   h 
ago,  and  has  "  se 

since.     He  took  t 

ing,  and  seems  to  be  fl 


e  came,  another  Killyleagh 


e   only  left  t 


en   nothing  equal  to  it"  (KiUvl 
'>  printing,  about  which  he  k      ' 


lourishing. 


^•h  man 

en  years 

agh) 

new  noth- 


Tufsday,  /cW,,_i).  a„d  th 


early  to  see  the  "  V 


rairie, 


';i   expedition  with   the  Cons.d 
lops  of  the  town 


e  other  gentlemen  

and  I,ady  Harriet  and  I 


drove  off 


sh 


s  sister-in-la 


went 
w  <ner  the 


The  first  we  did 
amiable  man  showed 
It 


as  Field  c^'  Lighter,  wh 


us  ev 


IS  a  very  large  general  sh 


crything  fn^n  top  to  hot 


ere  a  most 


torn. 


-  yy  .«,^c  ^reneral  shop.     GInvp<!  nr«.  »„ 
a  musiin  dress,  vcrv  m„rl,  ,          ^""\es  are  To.f.  a  pair; 
'  ^'^  '""^'^  trimmed  with  imitnfinn   i 


mitation  laci 


^1 


'     i 


,  ...nJgSJ'*^'-  "-^-TOi-aJwtfc^' ", 


194 


AfV  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XII 


£?,o ;  and  the  making  of  a  plain  dress,  ^6,  which  is  n.,t 
cheap. 

Then  we  went  to  a  china-shop  (all  came  from  Eng- 
and),  and  to  a  toy-shop,  where  I  made  a  few  purchases 
for  my  family.  We  also  were  shown  a  confectioner'',  or 
"candy-shop,"  and  we  saw  the  picture  painted  in  Emr. 
land,  and  sent  by  the  "Graphic"  as  a  memorial  of  the 
Chicago  fire. 

Another  sight  was  very  curious.  People  here  often 
keep  their  own  money,  instead  of  putting  it  into  hanks 
and  we  visited  the  safes.  There  are  small  rooms,  the 
walls  of  which  are  lined  with  pigeon-holes,  each  having 
a  very  strong  door  and  lock  of  its  own.  Persons  hire 
these  boxes,  have  their  own  key.s,  and  sometimes  go 
twenty  or  thirty  times  a  day  to  use  their  money  I  adies 
also  hire  these  safes  for  jewelry.  The  outside  door 
weighs  five  tons. 

D.  enjoyed  his  visit  to  the  Prairie,  or  '<  Perairer  "  e«» 
they  call  it  here.  He  shot  one  "  chid  en  "-a  prkirie 
fowl;  the  others  nothing;  but  they  were  only  there  a 
short  time,  and  they  saw  the  country,  which  was  what 
they  wanted. 

On  their  return  we  dined,  and  prepared  for  our  de- 
parture.   The  hotel-keeper  again  presented  us  with  bou- 
quets  and   enormous    baskets  of  splendid    fruit       Mr 
Murdoch  came  to  say  good-by  to  his  Killyleagh  friends" 

^Ve  traveled  all  night  in  a  Pullman  car,  and  slept 
very  comfortably. 

_  Wahmday,  /p///._We  arrived  at  Detroit  this  morn- 
ing, which  seems  to  be  a  very  pretty  town.  I).,  Fred 
Ward,  and  Colonel  Fletcher  went  by  steamer  to  Windsor 
and  C  hatham,  but  as  they  had  to  return  here  I  gave  up 
the  expedition.  At  both  places  I),  had  verv  warm  recep- 
tions, and  Colonel  Fletcher  tells  me  he  made  excellent 
speeches. 


AUG.   1874 


DETROIT  AXD   S.IRX/A. 


T^ady  Harriet,  Fred,  and  I.  walked  about  t<,  l,,ok  in 
at  shop.v,ndou.s.  and  at  f.ve  o'clock  we  crossed  t  e  v  r 
in  a^steamer  to  meet  I),  at  Windsor. 

^' e  all    returned    toLrethcr    -in,i    ,.. 

"received-  at   Detro  n  ''''    '"^'^'""^^'-^"^'y 

foot   of  a   r.n.  ,  '       """"'■   '^"'^n^'"'   ^'^    the 

town      1 1  7;'"'"  ''''''  ^^"'"«  ■^^^^'■.^^'>t   ^'I'  the 

town  ,  It  was  crowded  with  neo|)le  tlairs  llvin,   f,- 
of  t!ie  hnnsnc  fU  l"^' "'^K^  ii\in«:  from  most 

01   the  houses,  there  were  companies  of  United  Sf.t 

troops.  fire-en,n,es,  police,  a  military  l.an<l  in  tls^^et; 
and  people  sutm,.  in  all  the  windows.  Ue  Iro  -e  ,' 
process.on   through   a  ,reat  part  of  the  tow,  /      "n" 

: L;"  h^     t  ""■"^'    "^-   ''•"^^"^'       "^^'-^    '-e  V 
tr"e   ■  th        T'^  "^'    ''"^^^^"   ^^•'^"   '•-">'^'   --VS  of 

ro.^^  a;rr  dX- : -;'-'-^ 

cessKjn  reached  completely  ..oundlh^^-irtr,!;::; 
and  the  ta.l  ,>f  it  meeting  and  passing,  each  ot  1  Ve 

retnrned  to  the  Town-Hall.  and'  there'we  ha      a    pee  I 
f  welcome  from  the  '•  ( ,rator  -  of  the  town,  an<l    )    ,"  , 
a  very  ,.K>a   reply.      Two  other  spee<  hes  foliowe 

express.,  te  warmest  friendsh.p  to  Kn,,and  a:  r.:! 
ada.  I  he  lown-Hall  was  illuminated.  After  dinnr 
some  sm^ers  came  and  serenaded  us 

T/unsJay,  2o//,.-.Th\s  mornin;,^  at  .S  .0    wc  l.ft   l^„ 
;-t,  and  ,ettin,  on  hoard   a  nLt  o;,^, '     ,  ^   ;    ^ 
steamer   went  down  the  St.  Clair  River  to  Sarn.a 

Mr.  Mackenzie,  the  Prin.e  .Minister,  who  con,es  from 
■'^  rn,a.  was  w,th  us.  and  we  had  a  pleasant  journey  thro  I 
lovely  scenery,  and  in  beautiful  weather  ^ 

Mr.  Mackenzie  was  evidently  very  an.xious  that  Sar- 
"  a   should    d.st.njruish    itself,    and    looke.I   verv  much 
pleased  when  four  steamer.s,  crammed  with  ;.      i;  ^ 
covered  w,th  fla.s  and  green  boughs,  came  out  to  mTet 

The  r.ver  here  joins  Lake  Huron,  and  is  at  this  point 


^•1 


tg6 


MY  CAXADIAX  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XII 


■; 


VH^ry   „,,rr„w,    Von    Huron,  an    America,,   town,    being 

straijrlu  opposite.  ^^cmg 

When  ue  arrived  at  the  wharf  we  found  a  pink-and- 
wh.te  pavhon  erected,  ornamented  with  festoons  of  red 
wh.te,  and  bine;  and  close  by  it,  on  the  one  side  a  very' 
lar^^e  stand,  upon  which  hundreds  of  people  were  s.ttin^'- 
on  the  other  side,  two  tents  carpeted,  and  arranged  fo; 
a  reception.      1).  as  usual  replied  to  two  addresses,  and 
hen  no  less  than  ten  were  read  to  him  by  chiefs  of  dif- 
ferent     ndian  tribes,  to  which   he  replied'in  one  speech 
hese    Indians  are   more  ciyili.ed   and   advanced   than 
hose  we  have  seen   lately,  and  speak  with  horror  of  the 
"disgustinjr"  war-dance. 

We  went  into  the  tents,  and  shook  hands  with  every 
one  who  came  by,  and  then  we  j,ot  into  carriages  to 
dnye  through  the  town.  Sarnia  (the  ancient  name  of 
Guernsey)  is  a  small  place,  but  there  was  an  immense 
crowd  m  It,  people  from  the  country,  and  a  trainful  fron 

The  nrst  arch  we  |,asse<l  thrmigh  had  a  picttire  „f  ,|,e 
Queen, .„  one  s,de,  anc,  one  of  ,,,,,,,  a, ,atn,  „,,,,,; 
the   othc.     As  we   passe.l   under   the   se,-ond    a   I  ,r.re 
c  eese  wa.  havered  into  the  earria.e,  as  a  pr    e  t      A 
one  house  a  h.tle  stand  was  erected  in  ,|,e  gartlen  c,  v 
ered  w.th  children,  who  cheorctl  and  wave.t  flag  '        , 
through  t  e  town  we  receive.l  the  warntest  wele.m.e. 

..e;!.",,  'h,  "■',"  """':  ^  "•"""'  '"  ""'«  "■  'he 
steamer    ,    the  railway-statmn,  over  wliieh  some  verv 

comfortable  bed,„,„„s  were  arranged  for  us.     >Ve  d  ned 

at  barnia  in  the  evening. 

I'ri.hy   .,..,y._We  ventured  on  to  Lake  Hu,„n  this 
".-rnrng  ,„  a  ,mall  .steamer,  and  were  punished  ft^  o 
e,„er,ty.     The  sofas  and  cha,rs  .lanced  about  the  cabin 
the  band  rushed  to  the  side,  the  reporters  sat  droof^^g 


CII.  XII 

town,    being 

a  pink-and- 
oons  of  red, 
side,  a  very 
kere  sitting; 
rran;4ed  ior 
jresses,  and 
liiefs  of  dif- 
one  speech, 
a  need  tiian 
jrror  of  the 

with  every 
arria^es  to 
It  name  of 
n  immense 
linful  from 

ture  of  the 
:  artist,  on 
d.  a    large 
esent.     At 
rden,  cov- 
lags.     AH 
I  come, 
les  in  the 
ome  very 
We  dmed 
ptu  dance 

uron  this 
d  for  our 
the  cabin, 
drooping 


Avn.  1874 


SAL7  -U  JA-A'.?. 


197 


J 


upon  the  stairs,  I  lay  on  tlie  floor,  and  we  were  all  glad 
when  at  four  o'ch.ck  we  landed  at  (loderich.  It  is  a 
very  prettily-situated  town,  on  a  high  bluff,  and  after  an 
address  we  mimediately  drove  round  it,  and  to  the  house 
of  our  host,  Mr.  Cameron;  and  about  live  o'clock,  some- 
what giddy,  and  not  at  all  hungrv,  we  sat  down  to  a 
great  luncheon.  W  hen  it  was  over,  we  again  took  to 
our  carriages,  and  drove  to  the  Town-Hall.  It  is  built 
in  the  center  of  the  Scjuare,  and  everv  street  in  the  town 
leads  to  it.  Here  we  held  a  sort  of  reception,  people 
passing  by  and  shaking  hands.  Then  we  went  on  to  see 
some  salt-works. 

In  searching  for  oil,  they  found  salt,  and  salt  of  the 
best  quality.  Salt  water  is  pumped  up  into  shallow  iron 
tanks,  which  are  heated,  so  that  the  water  evaoorates 
and  leaves  the  whitest,  most  sparkling  salt.  Of  course 
we  had,  before  leaving  these  works,  to  stand  over  gla.sses 
of  champagne,  and  1).  made  a  very  successful  speech  to 
the  guests  assembled  there.  Back  again  to  our  house 
Dress  instantly  for  dinner,  and  for  the  ball  which  comes 
after.  Dinner  is  my  greatest  trial  on  these  occasions, 
for  I  really  can't  be  hungry  so  often  in  the  day. 

After  it  we  went  to  the  ball.  The  Curling  Rink  was 
arranged  for  the  occasion,  and  was  verv  pretty,  and 
there  were  numbers  of  nice-looking  girls.'  Ileft  "before 
supper,  I),  directly  after,  and  the  boys  some  time  in  the 
morning.  On  our  way  to  the  ball  we  saw  some  fire- 
works and  a  candle  illumination  in  the  town. 

Sadnday.  2M~\Ve  had  to  breakfast  at  eight,  and 
leaving  our  kind  hosts,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cameron,  go  on 
oiir  way.  An  hour  after  starting  we  stopped  for  "  live 
minutes  "at  the  railway-station  of  Mitchell,  and  heard 
and  answered  an  address. 

The  ne.xt  stopping-place  was  Stratford,  which  town 
was  promised   "two   hours."     Here   there  was  a  guard 


198 


•'/)•   CtX^tD/AX  JOVRXAr.. 


CJI.  xit 


niifi  a  band  and 


crowds  f)f  |)C()ple,  t 


nrivc   sedately  round   the   t 
l;ir«:e  followinjr  of 


wo  addresses,  and 


own   with  four  ho 
('■arria;;rt.s.      Wc  went  int 


copahan,  a  Roman  Catholir,  a  I'resI 


rses,  and  a 
o  an   Kpis- 


f'van   Church 


when 


so   th 


lyterian,  and  a  ^V 


we  returned   to  the  stat 


:it    no   one    nii;Tht   be   jo 


es- 


•crnians. 


rented   by   some   ( 
ment-room,  and  left 
a«:ain  j^ot  into  our  tram. 
In  a  short  time 


W 


;il<Mis;  and 
">ii    an  address  was   pre- 
l"<»ked  into  a  refresh- 


everybody   else  at   1 


unch 


when  we 


m 


ent.     We  were  met  by  t 


we  reached   Herhn,  a  ( 


and  by  s( 
sashes,  \vh( 
i'lK^     -Mi   the  h 


'irie   horsenie 


K'  usual  number  of 


uTman  settle- 


preceded  us  into  the  t 


n    wearinj,r  ,ed,  whit 


carnages, 


o 


e,  and  blue 
wn.  with  a  band  plav- 


itanis  were  out.     'J'he  add 


""s;;s  were  decorated,  and  all  the  inhab 


awnm 


Mil 


to  make  h 
thmk   it   wa 


«  in   front   of  the   Town-Ilal 


ress  was  presented  und 


er  an 


self  hearil  by  a  lar^r 


^""1  '>■  spoke  so 


as 


:i  very  successful   visit.     A  ( 


e  part  of  the  crowd,      f 


club  sanjr  .<  Die  U'acht  am  Rl, 
C.ueljih  was  our  last  stat 


em  "  to  us. 


•  erman  ^lee 


Sunday.     Cuard  of  honor,  band 


ion.  and  re,stin;r.piace  fortl 


own 


Hall  (f. 


for  a  drive,  and  I 


our  o  cl()( 


•k). 


two  addresses,  lunch 


our  healths  drunk.     I) 


le 
in 


we  stay.     In  the  even  in  jr  we  d 


rame  up  to  Mr.  I.eman's  I 


went 
louse,  where 


see   the   illuminati 


rove  to  the  I'own-IIall 


I) 


rawm«-room.  which   we 


ions,  and   to  hold  a   fidl-d 


turn  we  had 


nt   off  very   well,     0 


to 


ress  sort  of 


innry,  for  we  mad 


i^npper;  and  this  time  we  were  real 


n  our  re- 


and  (lid 


le  mistakes  about  the  h 


V  ve 


ry 


ours  to-dav, 


not   eat  when    we   mi^rht,   and   then  could 


when  we  would.     I  have  a  most  ch 


not 


ev 


erythiuH:    so    prettv    and 


fuming'  bedroom  here 


lively  and  pleasant,  but,  not  1 
her  mother  docs  the  honors. 


nice,     '!"he   host 


ess  IS  very 
!)einjj  very  well  at  present, 


Sumh 


pretty  church.    V 


".'•  •?.?'/.— We  went  to  n  I 


fiiffc.  new,  and  rather 


''^^w''^  think  how  we  ble»»  the  Sundavf 


M 


Ave.  1874 


BRAXTIORD. 


Mo,nh,y,  24th.~\\\  l)reakfastccl  earlv.as  I).  I 


out  at    nine   to   drivf  over 
other    (luclph    sijrlus.       1 
c:k 


199 

lad  to  he 


oVloek,  when  I  joiiieil   hiiii  at   the  rail 


liad  only  a  >liort  ch.-,t 
on  the  wav 


a  inoilel  farm,  and  see  some 

remained    (|uiet    until   eleven 

wav-station.     \\c 


mce  to  go,  hut  stopped  three  limes 


We   first   arrived   at    I'reslon.   a   ( 
anil  heard  an  address  read  witl 
was  presented  with  a  native  suit  of  clothes.     (kIu  came 


ierman   settlement, 
1  jrreat  emphasis,  and   I). 


ext.and  our  ohjeet  here  was  to  visit  M 


Hom 

gets  them  adopted  hy  farmers  or  ij'laced 


iss  Ma(:|)hersun' 


e.*    She  hrin^rs  waifs  and  strays  out  to  Canada. and 


lu're  was  an  address  at  the  stat 


as  servants. 


drove  olf  with    Miss    Macpherson   to    her  H 


ion.  after  which  we 


oor. 


se 


orre.      'I'he 

and  looked  very  well  and 

oiti  gentleman  took    us  over  his  house  to 

leii  we  }4.>t  hack 


children   were  all  at  the  d 
iiealthy.     An 

•e  a  view  he  was  very  proud  of,  and  tl 
to  our  train. 


W 


e  visited    Harrisburjr,  hut    w 


next  day,  so  we  only  saw  a  fe 


ore  not    expected  til! 


real  stoppmjr-place,  and   there  wc  w 


w  people.     Hraiitford  is  our 


of  honor,  hoth  foot  and  h 


crowd 


W 


orse,  a  band,  and 


ore  met  hy  <^KVAX(h 


e   (Irov 


c  to  a  S(|uare,  where  the  addre 


a  very  j^^rcat 


ss  was 


I)ifsented,  and    then    to  a    school,  where    hundreds   of 
children  were  arraiijL^ed    round  the  1 


and    the  mistress  rciul  an  add 
make  much   reply,  as  we  liad  not  k 
iind  had  only  just    time  to  carry  out 


;iwn. 


They   sang, 
ress  ;    hut    I),  could    not 


nown  of   this  visit, 

our   projrramme. 

r  was  jrjven  us  for  lunch  at  the  hotel.     () 


Half  an  hou 

rooms  are  most   comfortable,  the  |)eopIc  wl 


ur 


live  in  them   liavinu  furnisi>ed  them  for  themsel 
"laving  turned  out  for  us. 
Lunch  over,  we  started 


!io  generally 


ves. 


and 


on  new  duties.     I),  t 


urned 


•  Viiit'  ante,  |i|),  1,  a. 


J,i 


200 


^fV  CAXAD/AX  jOilRXAr.. 


m 


f'H,  Xtl 

tlic  first  soil  ,.f  a  raihvav  and  I  In, I  •>    , 

address  Dn-scit.-.l  t,.  n,     •  '  "''''"'''   *"  f''^' 

••>,>      •IIIU     t\cnilLr;      some      -ir/Oi.... 

isdnli-i,  "'i-J'^iiiii^.     J),  from  Ills  siHxrlu'^ 

'•■^  "-'il)  Ixvnnnnjr  „„„.e  known  to  th.-  .wmmI  '  ,  ,  "^ 
rm'ive  l,im  better  and  better \s  V  '  '  '  '""'  "'^"^ 
vcTv  i.Ieasant  "'  ^''  ""'  ^"^  ''^at  is 

-Monn,,n;.;/,;;;rv;;;ri;;"'  ""■ '''''''•''■'''-■' 

n-mcnts  l,.f.,ro  „„r  early  llr     L    '  l      "'"V""  '"■  "'"" 
-Hl.hlc  ,l„„„  ,,,,.  f„,,,  I,       i   I       •        :"■'"  '"  "''"''  '" 


Ve  had  thirteen  mil 


us  tu 


1' 


CH.  XII 

of  a  yodiijr 
>lif(l  to  the 
n\n^  latlies, 
»y  roiicern. 
[)ii|)ils  were 
-•stiller.     \\'^, 

■  wlidle  (,{ 
turned  out 
(k'C(jratc(l, 
'laved  the 
•  lip,  and 
'  spi'c'ches 
and  they 
hI  that  is 

L'  Senate, 
party  of 

se  yoiir- 
It  it  is  to 
or  three 
wiiic  h  to 
lit  many 
luinied, 

ind,  fol. 
'•isit  the 
Nations 

<  luirch 
service 
Queen 
'aptaiii 
iiilcs  tu 


Air,.  1874 


77//-:   .S7.V   XAT/OXS. 


:oi 


irive,  and  at  the   entrance  to  tlie  Reserve  we  found  ar 


arch- 


TheSix  Xations'  Welcf.nie  "  o 


n  one  side,  and  on 


ions  are  yratitled  ;  conu'  a^^ai 


n. 


the  other,  "  Tlie  Six  Nat 

'I'here  was  another  arch  farther  on,  wl 

by   Indian  bands  and    Indian   iieople  ;  most  of  them  in 

I'!  tin 


UMc  we  were   met 


|)ean   clotiies.   l)iit  a   few   willi   featliers.    etc.     'I'l 


le 


inter|)reter   is  a  very  clever,  tine-iooi<in>,^  man,  and  he 
was  l)eautifullv  (h-csscd    in  well 


IIK 


1   t)reeches  of    dcersl< 


made,  tii,dit-litfin.i;  tunic 
in,   witli   silver  ornaments;    tlie 


sleeves  were  short,  fniished  otl  with  fr 


111^1'. 


and 


over 


the 


rest  of  the  arm  there  was  a  lon;r  jrauntiet  of  wampmn 
a  sloiicliy  black   felt    hat  linisiied   off  his  costume.     Ik 
looked  very  maKmficcnt  on  Imrsi'liack. 


Close  to  the  "  ('((unc  d    ll< 
a  ^^reat  crowd  of   Indians,  a 


>f  old 


luse  "  was  a  third  arch  and 
monjf  whom  were  .1  number 


warriors  "  «ot   up"  in  paint,  feathers,  etc.;    but 


these  adornments  are  no  lonj;er  natural  to  them,  and  are 
only  put  on  in  our  honor.  We  waited  in  the  Council 
Chamber— a  >(ood  room,  where  several  curiosities  were 
laid  out  for  inspection-^-and  when  ad  was  ready  we 
liassed  into  an  enormous  arbor  erected  for  the  occasion, 
which  was  filled  with  In 


W 


dians  and  other  spectators, 
e  sat  on  a  dais,  and    listened  to  an    Indian  speech, 


whi(-h  was  translated  to  His  V. 


\.,  who  replied  in  Mnj^lish, 


stoii|)m.Lj  at  the  end  of  every  sentence  for  the  interpreter 
to  |)ut  it  into  Indian,  The  words  of  the  lanyua^c  are 
very  lonjj,  and  the  Indian  sjnecli  took  twice  as  lony  to 
deliver  as  the  Knj^jlish  one. 

When  this  was  over,  the  old  chiefs  shook  Innds  with 
us,  and  there  was  a  jrrcat  rush  of  women,  many  of  whom 
presented  me  with  things.  One  pinned  a  little  silver 
brooch  into  my  dress.  She  was  a  verv  liaiidsome-look- 
iiiK  person,  and  wore  a  larye  straw  hat  and  a  jjrcat  cloak, 
underneath  whi(  h  one  saw  cloth  jraiters,  worked  in  beads. 


Th 


e  ncvt  ceremony  was  a  war-daiK  e,     Seve 


n  mea 


.202 


M  I 


li 


-''>'f./.\v//./^.Vyu6-^^-^^. 


Hf.  xir 


*TI,cOV.rfoK«,p„per  of  Toronto. 


"iip'Uiicd  it 
"fJians  then 
tt^'-'i,  and  We 

«:''l.\  who 
;ed. 

'ays  it  has 

'  Sfll.l- 

I  •iiiKitf'iir 
Laiisc"  the 
'"■ti.oriis, 
'>at,  with 

to  make 
e  calves, 

mother, 

>red  and 

■  nursed 

"H'  Was 

'I'liat  is 

to  the 

whole 
>iit  ex- 
tJinner. 
>••  He 
aiuln!, 

some 
th  the 
•e  tiie 
"  etc., 

The 
:.aiul 
Hall. 


AUG.   1874 


WOODSTOCK. 


203 


wiurh  went  oft"  very  well.      Hut 
we  "  work  our  passa;;e." 

W'tiluruiiiw  26tlt.~()'ii  at  9  a. 
to  Paris,  where  we  wer 


vou  se(i 


that. 


as  I). 


savs. 


M.  as  usual.      We  dn.M 


c  reeeived  bv  the    .'^lav 


I)t'(iplc,  and  drove  a  mile  and  a  half, 
the  railwav-station. 


or  and  the 


at  a  fi 


'ot's  pace,  to 


r 


!ie  town  is  prettily  situated,  and  it  tak 


from  the  ^ryi'sum  m  its  neij,dil)orhoo(l,  of  whicl 
piaster  of  Paris.    The  station 


IS  its  name 
1  it  makes 


rateii 


t  one  end  of  a  scpiare  was  the  |)latf 


cari)eted,  covered  in  with  tlajjs  and  I 
lands  and  bird-ea«;es,  and  all  the  t 
tl 

garlands.       Addr 


as  most  heautifullv  deco- 


orin,  raised. 


\\\ 


"K  with  jrreeii  ^'ar- 

t-'k'Kraph -posts  down 

ic   radway-sides    twined    with    Krwn  and   joined    with 


we  sh(/( 


fsses,  ot    eourse,    were    read,  ami   thei 


)k  liands  with  numbers  of  peoj 


with  a  woman  who  came  fr 


and  who  seemed  almost  mad  with  excit 


>lc  ;  amon;,r  others. 


ago, 


om  C'laniieboye  a  year 


cment  at  seeinjj 
us.  She  asked  to  Imss  D.'s  hand,  but  he  said,  "  I  ,,,u!d 
not  allow  a  lady  to  kiss  my  hand."  ••  Then  mav  I  kiss 
voiir  fare?"     D.  jr,,t  ,,1,1  of  this  embarrass! 


)y  saying,  "  Ladv  Dufferin  d 


stock 


tig  position 
oes  not  allow  that,"    Wood- 


was   our   ne.xt   destination.     'Ihe   address 


the  station,  and  we  d 


ro 


atuler. 


was  at 
ve  out  to  the  place  of  .Mr.  .Ale.\- 


senator,  where  a  ^ri-'at  piil)lic  | 


)icnic  was  jriven 


in  our  honor.     I),  had  to  reply  to  an  address  from  tl 


county,  and  to   return  thanks  for  I 


le 


lis  own   and  for  my 


lu-alth.  whi(  h  were  proposed  seiiaratcly  at  luncl 
by  a  farmer,  who  did  it  rather  well,  refe 


1 ;  mine 


rrinjf  to  William's 


speech  on  revisiting  Holland,  when  he  said  that  the  we 
come  would  have  been  K^reater  if  "  .NT.iry  had  l)een  with 


mp."     We  met   here  a  Soutl 


whom  we  had  kno 

the  three  pretty  Misses  Ale.vander 


icrn  Kfiitleman,  Mr.  Fea 


rn 


wn  eleven  years  ago  in  Kngland  ;  and 


'l"hen  on  to  Injrersoll.  a  small  town   wA\  .i.,,! 


pactly  built,   where  we   drcjve   throuKh  well-decorated 


'1      « 


Ml 


204 


AfV  CAX.U)/AX  JO  CAW 


■IL. 


fii.  .\tr 


streets,  followed  I 
Scliciol.     I 


th 


iiuer.s(;ll  jv 


'V  ^^u.inls,  firemen,  aiui  pconl 


ere  was  an  areii  made  of  elu 


Kreat   clieese-iiiak 


l>c'»|'lt',  to  the 
'"«  place,  and 


>";,^"(•heese,  the  makin^Mif  Canada!"     \\ 


procession  to  a  el 


ess  of  convertin;r 


'i"h(;  Sund 


leese-factory,  and 
new  milk   into  cl 


eses,  the  motlo  on  it  I 
e  drove  out  it 


)e- 


saw  the  whole  pro- 


eh 


'y  milk  has  to  be   used   for  1 


eese-makin-r  it  imist  I 


\\e  always  feel  jri^d  wh 


'e  (jiiite  fresh 


'eese  in  five  hours 
>iitter,  as   for   the 


town,  and  at   6.30   to-d, 


en  we  approach  our  si 


l>een   here  t 


'y  we   jrot    to    I.,,|h1 


eepmj,'-. 


wo   years   before,  but   tl 


on.     We  had 


warm  a  reception  as  if  this  had  I 
as  almost  dark  when   the 


It  u 


iver,  but  the  st 


addre 
reets  were  crowded,  and 


ducted  by  all  the  people  to  M 
tlie;ratewasa  beautiful,  ill 
rnished  with  the  prettiest 


le  people  gave  us  as 
)een  our  first  visit. 

ss-ceremony  was 
We  Were  con- 


'jor  Walker's  house.    Ov 


fu 


iiminat 


ed  arc  h. 


I  had 


ver 
a  room 


f 


iiniiture  I  have  ever  se 


pecMnens(,f  Canadian  rnaph 


an( 


en.     Mis.  Walk 


very  nice,  and  she  jLjavc  us  a 


er  IS  a  ( 


■erman. 


we  were  .so  thankful  to  her 


quiet  dinner,  for  which 


I),  had  t 


••^^•outtoa"conoert."and  found  that  h( 


was  expected  to  speak— for  tl 


Thursday,  27th.~\\ 


'"■eakfast    t( 


le  ninth  time  to-day! 
-'  were  routed  out  directiv  aft 


I'ark, 
we  held 


«:o    and    open,  and    name,  tl 


town 


and  then  we  proceeded  to  the    I 
■  a  reception  and  ate  lunch,     i 


,  and  there  were  about  one  tl 


er 

ietoria 

'wn-Ilall.  where 

t  was  jriven  bv  the 


room.     D.'s  health  was  drunk,  and  I., 
speech  in  reply,  and  we  got  off  to  th 


"'"sand  people  in  the 


le  made  a  very 


good 


an  h 


th 


our  we  arrived  at  St.  Th 


oina 


had  a  dri 


e   usual   reception   b 


ve,  and  saw  a 


:>iiothcr   railway-station,  wl 


and  were  taken   l( 

weie  introduced  to  heaps  of  peopi 

we  were  gelling  int 


e  train  by  1.30.     In 

«•      I  need  not  enter  into 

usiness— arches,  guards.     We 

ooden  railway-bridge, 


wonderful  w 


.  w lie  re  we 


o  our   carri;iir 


people;  and  then,  just  as 
-^^,  ....    Mau;f,  hurror- 


en.  xrr 

>ple,  to  the 
place,  and 
^'J  on  it  l)L'- 
'■"vc  out  ill 
whole  pro- 
(Ive  hours. 
;i-s   for   the 

'  sleepinjT. 
Uc  liatl 
rave  us  as 
■i'^it. 

iK'iiy  was 
vere  con- 
se.  Over 
id  a  room 
an  maple 
(leriiiaii, 
or  wliich 

that  he 

•y!  ■ 

;ly  after 
Victoria 
I,  where 
1  by  the 
e  in  the 
T  tfood 
30.     In 
tcr  into 
s.     We 

rre  we 

just  as 
Kjrror- 


AfG.  1874 


si.\rcoE. 


20: 


stricken,  exclaimed:  "  I'.ut  the   Iinul 


and 


liuich. 


I),  consentfd  to  run  in  for  a 


1  I   yon    must  come 
moment,  and 


Kot  thron-h  three  speeches.  On  the  return  to  the  car- 
nages'-olonel  Fletcher  says  tiie  Mayor  was  in  despair— 
300  or  400  dollars'  worth  of  lunch,  and  nobodv  to  "eat  it. 
He  had  been  there  fiftv-six  vear> 


(;overnor-(ieneral    before,  and 


never  come  l)ack. 


It  w 


and  never   received 
said,   "  I   know   von   wi 


11 


lon},a'd  to  eat  some  of  th 


;is  cpiite  touchin^^  and   f  really 


e  luncli. 


Sim 


coe  is  a  very  pretty  rural  to 


in  an  hour's  time.     It  had  mad 


wn,  which  we  reached 


c  i-reat 


ns — no  less  than  nine  arcl 


preparations  for 


ics,  ami  everv  iiouse  stre, 


ous 


with   fjajrs.  and  yards  and   yards  of   red  and   bl 
white    stuffs,     '{'he    Courl-ll 
ran{,red  with  a  covered  |)latf 
dress  was  read.     We  went  to   st 


iminjif 


lie  and 


e   was   very  prettily  ar- 
orm  outside,  wliere  the  ad- 


Campbell,  at  their  charmint:  littl 


:iy  with    .Mr.  and    Mr^ 


which  we  had  to  turn  after  dinner  t 


c  country-house,  out  of 


o  see  fireworks  and 


Illuminations,  and    to  be  intro<luced   to  people  on  th< 
aforesaid  platform.      In  the  nij^du  th 
caused,   I    fear,  by  these   h 
both  workeil  hard  till  two  in  tl 


ere  was  a  real  fire. 


onors   to    us,  and   the   Kreds 


iiul  helj 


le  iiiKht,  carryinjT  bucket; 


>iiijj  to  put  out  the  names.     When  I),  next  morn- 


>ng  expressed  his  re«:rets  that 


dent  should  hav 

politely  assured  him   that  it 

would  jrreatly  improve  the  t 


such  an  unfortunat 


e  acci- 


e  (K-curred  durinj,^  his  visit,  the  May 


or 


•as  a  very  good  tiling  and 


own. 


Fii(/iiy,  j.SV//.— We  drove  t 


the  schools  at  Sinicoe.     Th 

Welland,  we  stopped  for  addresses  f 


o  Waterford,  first  visit 


and  at  four  we  got  to  St.  Cat  I 


ing 

ere,  and  at  Dean's  Corner  and 

i(»m  the  counties. 


lerine  s. 


It  i 


ara,  and  is  celebrated  for  mineral  waters.     '|"| 


s  near  Niag- 


ve 


ry  pretty,  houses  and  trees  being  mixed 


le  town  is 
everywhere, 
he  arches  here  were  of  new  patterns.     One  repre- 
sented a  siiip  with  the  yards  manned,  and  a  large  boat, 


Tl 


i.    '  \{ 


.    m 


206 


I   n 


"'^^-'■^''^^^■^Vy.v,,.,,,, 


1  Ji 


•^"•-'^•t.  ".  one  place,  a  man    '',""■'•  ""''  ^^■''■"■'^s  tl,e 

'^'•'''^^'-t  arches  to  look        t''      ^^^'"->  ""  it.     The 
-'■>•  'ar^e-headed  tin    nair     •■'  T^-'^''  -ottoes'^ 
^^'----•'-donen/h:;"/^^^'-''-      '''-Koyr 
A  Platfonn  was  erectec     n  r?'  '''''^"  '''"'^-  '-vc'ly 

J^--.    -d|,.,.,,t    '     ''-Hdd,eofthen.Jj: 

/^^'  ^I'ove  slouly  throinrl,  ""  "'^'  ■'^^'-^''-'t. 

^^•'•/''^'t  was  ,.ven  l.y  the  t',u,    \      1-'/  ^^^'^''^^^  ^  d,n- 

J-'^-N    -'.ich    ucre    really    ;;';V' '  ^" '" ''^'^  ^^e- 

^^'"'-'.  and  .reat  l)<..u,uets  n^  ^    ^'      ''""^  •-»™«   were 

:^;'-'-P'ay.     Uh.i         :,;;:'-^^";-a.ulles-.,n.^:S 

;•;;'-.     ^-vlhaveha,      :;^;f:      '7'^'— ptio„ 
.^  I'ave  only  ^iy^„  "nte  all  this  at  once  so 

;"^-  -''"'J  of  all  the"  k  n  h^,,;  ''"^^'  ^-^"^-"^  of  all  ourdo- 

^-  -•-  the  short-ha "  rpo;7e:"r '"''  ^^'^■^--^"-- ; 

^':^'^""  "P  ^vith   the  description  St  ''  ''''''^"  ""^''^'^'  to 

■^"•'  ."'"-^^  for,n-ve  nie.        '  ''"^>'   ^'"*>^''t  to  write,  so 

"■-l-re  vv.vfr,,,,,  s,,  (■;,„,  ,;■'."" '"«  I'""  in  the  ,rai, 
°"  "'«■=  pier.,,  ,l,e,„"  ;     '^'""T  "''"'  "'  "  '"'i "K 


t'l.  Xll 

''•     One  was 

nl  across  tlie 
'ently  sittiii^r 
—^iliylea^rj, 
on  it.     'j-|,^. 

"lottoes  in 

■^'le  Royal 
lU'te  lovely. 
'''<i  niarket- 

^reen  and 

rcet. 

"i  -'Schools, 
'Pt-'ti  a  din- 
to  the  fire- 
rnis   were 
"  finished 
'■f^'-eption 
■  ^^"ce,  so 
"  our  do- 
ry where  ; 
liable  to 
^vrite,  so 

I  Works, 

he  train 

to  see 

irown  " 

X  built, 
topped 
to  let 
esting 
uchin- 
1  and 
ily  it 


i|! 


II  :f 


208 

and  the  weath 


^IfV  C.iXAniA.V  JOCj^x,ii_ 


CH.  XII 


this  part  of  the  count 

Afoiula 
crossed 


er  and  chmate  in  summer  are  deiightf 


ul  in 


rv, 


j/,»/._\Vc    left    Xiaj,rar, 


ake  Ontario  in  th 


I   "1    a    steamer,   and 


mau 


lie  chiel  excitement  of  this  trip 


e  most  lovely  weather. 


was 


.>lie  was  riishinjr  t<j  the   wait 


caused  by  my 


parcel,  when  the  steame 


r  went  off  without    h 


mg-room  to  fetch  a 


in 


ran  about  the  wharf  gesticulat 

manner.     \\\  pm   back   for  1 

>"  the  verge  of  hysterics.      1   kept  .saf 


had  had  time  to  calm  d 


er,  and  she 

g  ill   the  most  excited 

ler,  and  got  her  on  board 

y  away  until  she 


Hot 


the  St 


el  at  'I'oronto,  and   in  th 


own.     We  went    to  the  Queen 


reets  with   I). 


looked 


As  w 


e  w 


over  his  should 


"^*  "*^'  '"h  snouitier,  and  salt 

to  see  you   going  quietly   like   th 


into    conversat 


especially  about  ou 

1). 
was  r 


">n    with    us    respecti 


e  evening  I  took  a  walk  in 

ere  walking  along,  a  man 

It  is  (|uite  pleasant 

It,"  and   then   entered 


said. 


r  reception  by  the  .\me 


'1,^^    our   tour,   and 


who 


ind  Fred  went  to  a  theatre  after  d 
■ecognized,  and   received  with   cl 


ricans. 


inner,  where  D. 


were  in  the  midst  of 


leers.     'I'he  act 


agine  what  th 


a   tr 


e  noi.se  was  about 


ors. 


^4f'c  part,  could  not  im- 


Toronto:    Tuesday,  S,-pt, 


•inb 


gntta,  and  lunched  with  a  rille-club 


I.*/'.— I).  looked  at 


speech.     I  did  noth 


Th 


a  re- 


vith  Mr.  Howland.     He  h 


"ig  until  the  evening,  wh 


ere  he  made  a 


tile  dinner 


was  a   Southern    g 


was  rather  long,  it 


en  we  dined 
:is  a  nice  house,  and,  althouiih 


was  very  pleasant.    Tl 


wh 


>  sat  !)y  me.  and  told 


eiicrai.   with   one    leg  and 


tinguished  wom, 


me  his  wife 


lere 


one  arm, 


dre 


'"   '"   the  South,  as  she  had 


was  the  most  di 


11  under   five  years  old— t 


seven  chil- 


tiieni 

IVt'dnt'sday,  ^,/._I). 

to  give  away  the  medal 

at    the  Club,    and    made  (people"  say) 


wo  pairs  of  twins  a 


mong 


went  again  to  the  regatta,  and 
s  won.     In  the  ev 


Kood  speech  there,     The  hea 


ening  he  dined 
an    exceedingly 


rers  were  quite  enthusias- 


srrr.  1874 


If// 1 /BY. 


209 


t:c,  and  l)esidc.s  continual  cheers  during  the  speech,  they 
stood  up  and  cheered  tor  fully  live  minutes  after  he  had 
finished. 

In  speaking  of  our  tour,  I),  said;  "  Never  has  the  head 
of  any  (iovernment  passed  through  a  land  so  rei)lete 
with  contentment  in  the  |)resent,  so  pregnant  of  promise 


in   the  future.      I'roni   th 


e  northern  forest  bonier  huuh 


whose  primeval  recesses  are  being  pierced  and  indented 
by   the  rough-and-re.ldy   cultivation    of    the    free-grant 


settler,  to  the  trim  inclosiire  ami 


wheat-laden  townships 


that  smile  along  the   Lakes;  from   the  orchards  of  Ni 
agara  tf)  the  hur.  nig-grounds  of   Nipigon  ;  in  the  wig- 
wam of  the  Indian,  in  the  homestead  of  the  farmer,  in 

the  workshop  of  the  artisan,  in  the  office  of  his  emi)loyer 

everywhere  have  I  learned  'hat  the  people  are  satisfied: 
satisfied  with  their  own  individual  prospects,  and  with 
the  prospects  of  their  country;  satisfied  with  their 
(lovernment,  and  with  the  institutions  under  which 
they, prosper;  satisfied  to  be  the  subjects  of  the  0 
satisfied  to  be  members  of  the  Hritish  F 


)ueen 


inpire. 


77iur.ufii\\   j(/.— Hitlierto    we    have    bee 


lot. 


day  we  were  very  cold.     It   rained   a  great   deal,  and 
we  had  our  first  experience  of  this  sort  of  t 


our  in  wet 


weather. 

When  we  began  our  journey  again,  Whitby  was  the 
first  place  we  stopped  at.     Sold 
our  heads  .vhile  the  addi 
through,"  and  an  umbrell 


iers  held  a  tarpaulin  over 
ress  and   reply  were  l)eing  "got 


us. 


I'hen 


a-covered  crowd  stood  around 
we  got  into  a  carriage,  and  drove  to  a  plat- 

reii 
ions,  and  there 


form  in  front  of  the   High  School.     The  poor  child 

had  taken  great   pains  with  their  decorat 

were  V.  R.'s   and   I). 

the   walls,  and    child 

rain. 


in   every  pane,  and  garlands  on 
ren    in  white  standing   out    in  the 


Next  we  went  to  a  college  about  to  be  opened,     An 


2ro 


^^y  CAXADIAX  JOCRXAL. 


H  ! 


117 


in 


arch  at   the  entrance  was  verv  nr<.ffiK.    i 
'"  P'"^.  -"ite,  and  bh,e  sto  2nd  T^'    .^'"'"" 

^-■".nga  lovely  clea.rat,.n-,f  ,  "  '  ,  " ,  T  "' ''' 
"P""  them  !  Th,s  collej,^.  is  c.Ilc  .  ."  '^^  '"^""^ 
^^■"1   the  house  was  built   ,s,  ' '•^•f^^'^^ar  Castle. - 

^^> Resold.  ThereJ;:':,;r:r"^''^"r''"'^-^ 

tions  in  the  drawing-roon,  '''•  ^'"''  P^^'-^^'^a- 

i^ownianvilie    came    next  h„,    .. 

heavily  there  that  we   hurried  ,       *     ■    ''""    ''""'■'•"^'    '''' 

as  quickly  as  possible.  '""^'^   "'■■^■^"   ^^'^''"esses 

At  Port  Hope  the  rain  ceased      linr  -.    ., 
drove  up  here  I  conceived  .Will  "'"  ^''"^'•'•'•''^es 

vic'ed  for  us,  and   as"  e    ,  ,    '1'  '''  '"  ^'^^  ^"^^^  P- 

along  I  disliked  them  more  •    d       f' T   ""^""'"^-'-'^'y 

-turn   to  the  station.  tiis  J  "^    '  "^^^"^  "'"  '''"^ 

town,  which   is  vervnr.,  II      V    •       '""''^'  •'^eeing  the 

n,  and  she  was  knocked  do.n,  a„.l  killed  „n    I  e     " ! 

At  five  o'clock  we  reached  Coburff.  and  Ind  in  -,,1 

dress nr  twrv    t  «.u-   i  .  '^  "^  "U  aci- 

or  two,  I  thmk— at  the  ToivnHall      A  I),,„i„„ 

room  afterwards.     The  res,  of  the  evening   .oJen; 

to^.^^;,  was  „nempl„,ed.     We  are  in  a  most  ^ntfo'tTwe 


r^ 


'/,. 


CH.  xir 


''"'H'.  Children 
f'  t'le  top  of  it, 
L-  sun  had  shone 

■'(icncc.  hut  had 
,  and  prcsenta- 

ain  poured  so 
iiree  addresses 

■i  I  lie  carriages 
le  horses  pro- 
tinconifortably 
It-'  «-ct  out  and 
>e(l  seeing  the 
;ilso  missed  a 
the  Fletchers' 
soine  s])iritcd 
'St-',  a  crowd, 
1  f-'ict,  all  the 
made  me  ter- 
ions  through 

tr  "  (iod  save 

,^  on,  a  poor 
^■"-''1  tlv  first 
"t  he  pulled 
"11  the  spot, 
has  not  yet 

liad  an  ad- 
A  Drawing- 
,  wonderful 
-omfortahle 


SEPT.  1874 


^'V  /A'O.V-.V/.V£, 


FrfW, 


'<n\  ^///.— We  left  the  I 


by  train   for  half  an   1 
into  a  steamer. 


louse  at  8  a.  m..  and 


"""■  to    Kice   I.ak( 


211 


wi'nt 


wli 


ere  we  got 


R 


ice 


I,ak 


e  IS  verv 


cause  of  the  wild 


pretty  indeed,  and 


add  re 


Hast 


ss  on  the  \va\ 


nee  which  grows  there.      \»'e  1 


IS  so  named  he- 


lad 


one 


ing.> 


Th 


man,  and  told 


c   reeve    there 


IS  w^  passetl   through    ;he   lock   at 


nohl 


lis  he  had   been  wait 


was  a   most 


amusing   old 


eman  to  come  and  see  h 


"ig  tlftv  v-ears  f 


<»r  a 


'J'h 


im. 


e  final  object  of 


and  we   had   t 


our  expedition  w 


I  did 


o   go  a   short  wav 


'IS  an  iron  mine 


not  expect  to  care  the  1 


"1  a   train    to    reach    it 


so  many  untidy,  stony,  barren   pi 


cast  about  it. 


we  h 


ave  seen 


tliis  o 


ne  was  really  an  interest 


We  f 


ound  ourselves  at  th 


|) laces  called 
ing  sight. 


or  c 


;ivern   (these  Wf)rds  are  t 


c  top  of  an  cno 


mines;   but 


rmous  hole 


(le 


ep,  and  large  in  proport 


00   smal!   for   it),  ,40  feet 


as  tlav.     Tl 


le  m 


">".  perfectly  open,  and   liLdi 


low,  and  it  was  a  sort  of  th 


en  looked  like  imps  as  tl 


mg  one  sees 


mmiature,  in  a  fairy  play.     The  .sid 


ght 

ley  worked  i)e- 
presi  nted,  in 


IJiit,  alas!  the  coal 


Wh 


is  in  the  States. 


fs  were  walls  of  ii 


on 


en  we  returned  to  the  ste 


tied  to  its  side,  covered 
—in  which  lunch  was  laid 
it,  as  we   breakfasted 
The  man 


lUl 


m  with  green— a  (1 


er  we  found  a  barge 


and 


oating  arbor 


\  er 


:igers  of  the  m 


'•^^    730,  dnd    it 


y  glad   we  were  of 


was  now  past    2. 


cans,  and  we  were  th 
General   Fitzhugl 
our    hosts;    th 
Southerners. 


"i"s,  steamers,  etc.,  are  A 


eir  guests.     Colonel  C'hambI 
h.  with   their  wives  (two  sisters) 


meri- 


is 


ey    live   in    the   hotel,   and 


ind 
were 


are    cluirmini 


There  was  great 


turn,  as  a  bantpiet  and  a  ball 


inxiety  about  the  t 


beg 


inning  [  had  .said  I 


were  to  f 


ime  of  our  re- 
ollow.     From  the 


very  severe  sieges 

had  refused  when  I  found 


\vould  not  dine,  and  I  withstood 
pon    the  subject ;  but  I  was  glad  I 


we  did  not  reach  Cob 


iirg  till 


im'- 


f' 


;ii,  " 


I  u 
\  III 

N 


212 


^fy  CANADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XII 


7-30,  after  eleven  hours'  outing.  We  were  met  by  a 
torchliKd.t  procession,  and  as  my  carriage  was  drawn  by 
HUM,,  anti  not  In-  wild  horses,  I  enjoyed  it.  The  Urcnien 
presented  me  with  an  enormous  bouquet  as  I  got  out  of 
the  carriage. 

All  tlie  other  ladies  had  to  rush  home  to  chx-ss,  and 
I-ady  Harriet  ami  I  enjoyed  a  quiet  tea. 

\Ve  went  down  to  look  at  the  dinner-table,  which  was 
beautifully  arranged  (in  the  hotel).  It  was  shaped  K, 
represent  the  deck  of  a  yacht,  and  two  pillars  which 
supported  the  ceiling  of  the  room  acted  as  masts  the 
r'«kM'i«:  l)fing  proi)erly  arranged  from  hem.  There' w,s 
a  tiller  and  a  bowsprit-in  fact,  the  idea  was  completely 
carried  out,  and  in  front  of  I ).  stood  a  cake,  <.n  which 
was  inscribed  the  word  "  Foam."* 

!).'s  health  was  drunk,  and  the  company  were  de- 
lijrhted  with  his  reply,  which  brought  all  the  guests  to 
their  feet.  The  dance  was  in  the  same  room,  and  was 
very  pretty  and  sue,  ossful.  I  was  at  it  for  a  short  time. 
Satunhiy,  j///._.\t  our  posts  again  at  9  ,\  m  .\  ten- 
der farewell  to  Coburg,  and  a  warm  "  How  do  you  do  >  •' 
tt)  Itellcville. 

The  station   was   three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
town,  and   we  had  a   slow  march  all   that  wav.  and  all 
through  the  town  to  the  pla.e  where  the  addresses  were 
read       I  hen  out   to  a  great  institution  for  the  deaf  and 
dumb      The  building  is  on  a  fine  site,  and  is  most  airy 
and   cheerful.      The    pupils   were   collected    in    a   large 
room,  and  on   the   wall,   in   green   letters,  was   written 
Accept  our  silent  welcome."     Dr.  Palmer,  the  hea.I  of 
the  institution,  brought  forward  some  untaught  children 
just  arrived,  and  showed  us  how  he  began  to  teach  them 
so  as  to  give  them  their  first  ideas,     It  was  very  inter- 


The  name  of  the  yacht  in  which  Lord  D.  went  to  Iceland. 


to  ilrcss,  and 


ile  from  the 

ivay.  ami  all 

Ircsscs  were 

lie  deaf  and 

s  most  airy 

in    a   larj^e 

i'as  writtt'n, 

tlic  lu-ad  of 

[lit  rhildrt'ii 

teach  them 

very  inter- 


sEPT.  1874 


k'lXGSTO.V. 


213 


est 


ing  to  see  their  expressions  of  dawninp  compreh 


cn- 


sion.  Dr.  Pahiier  then  showed  us  other  children  in  va- 
rious sta^a's.  One  little  jjirl,  who  had  just  returned  from 
the  holidays,  haviujr  jrot  a  little  rusty  during  her  ab- 
sence, made  the  most  curious  faces  of  disgust  with  her- 
self when  she  made  a  mistake,  and  the  most  piteous  sort 
of  sound  between  a  laugh  and  a  cry. 

A  deaf-and-dumb  teacher  next  came  forward  to  show 
us  the  sign-language,  and  in  pantomime  told  us  a  story  ; 
It  was  a  wonderful   piece  of  acting.     He  afterwards  ( 


in 


th 


e  s 


;ime  way)  told  the  story  of  Christ  stilling  thest 


orm 


and  I  don't  think  that  the  reading  of  the  passage  could 
be  more  impressive  than  the  way  in  which  he  conveved 
the  narrative  to  us  by  signs.     1  thought,  when  he  1 


that. 


H'gan, 


coming  after  the  comic  story,  it  might  seem  irrev^ 


erent ;  but  it   had  a  most   s( 
I). 


s  s 


)lemn  and  reverential  effect, 
peech  was  interpreted  into  signs  as  he  spoke  it,  so 
we  saw  the  method  well.  No  word  is  spelled;  every 
sentence  is  in  signs.  'I'hey  all  "diil""(;od  save  the 
Queen  "  in  this  way  before  we  left. 

This  interesting  entertainment  made  us  unpunctual 
for  the  first  time  during  our  tour,  and  we  had  to  run  in 
and  out  of  Nfiss  Macpherson's  Home,  and  to  cut  Napa- 
nee  very  short  indeed,  so  as  to  get  tt)  Kingston  at  the 
right  time— that  is,  about  six  ;  and  after  the  address  we 
had  to  drive  some  way,  and  go  in  a  steamer  to  Mr.  '.'art- 
wright's,  where  we  stay. 


1   felt 


very   unready   to  go   back   to   Kingston  after 


dinner  to  hold  a  reception;  but   it  had  to  be  done,  and 
through  rain  and  lightning  we  returned  there. 


There  were  a  great  many  jieople  in  a  brilliant 


room. 


and  after  we  left  the  "  young  things  "  danced,  but  I  have 
ni>t  yet  seen  them  to  hear  about  it.  I  have  forgotten  to 
mention  iliui  brother  Krcl  left  for  England  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  3d. 


U  \ 


i! 


i 


2K 


^^y  CAXADIAX  joc/i 


VAL 


the  1) 


Su,i,f,iy^  d//i.-^K 


cir.  xir 


cJer  til 


'^'iitnning  of  tlic  Th 


'"^'ston  is  pretfil 


t't-'cs  here  and 


'^usancl  Island 


y  situated,  aliTK^st 


at 


the  Th 


had 


"iisaiid  Islands,  tl 


restin^r  is  deii^ditfnl. 


and 


Sitting  un- 


ivc  had  a  I< 


a  conijortabic  st 


'>  t"f  weather  be 


ively  j 


people  f(j||(,w 


vill 


"'^'  us.     When 


^'•""cr  all  to  oursel 


ng  b 


(Hirney  thronirh 


fautifnl.     W, 


t-',  a  hundred  small 


**"(-'  had  a  I; 


ly 


'■ow-buats  c 


vt's,  one  full  „f 
we  -ame  in  si^lu  „f  ]{,,,,.,.. 


.'^i^l't.     Uhen  we  land 


'"."••'"<'  a /lag.  and  it 


aiiie  to  meet 


horses 
continual 


was 
^'<'  we  gut  into  a  ca 


a  ve 


I's;  each 
ry  pretty 


«    sort    have    spoiled    my 


t-'xperienees    of    th 


"erves,  I  got  out.  and 
lambs;  th 


;  these,  however,  had  tl 


took-  a  lower  p|.- 


"t>si's  up  against  a  (] 


"-'  "lisfortune  t 


^*i  behind 


two 


really  delighted  to  thin'k 


'«•.  ai.d  shied  fearfully;  so  ] 


Mere  I) 


mad 


tliat  th 


0  a  s 


C"""t  of  our    recept 
"  I)u 


Peech,  in  which  h 


IS  was  my  last  driv 


o  run   (heir 


was 


nng  th 


e  SIX-  weeks 


"'"   'i'    di/Terent  ,,lac 


save  some  ac- 


t'lat    I   have  received 


'»>'  tour  ha 


es,   and   said 


twenty  addresse 


something   lik 


_s  occujiied.  J  belie 


ve 


<^f  content 


Ncverj  one  of  which   I 


f  «"'e  lumdred  and 


fi 


rst   t(.  last 


'"^•"^  '".valty.  and  kind 
"o   harsh,  d 


"eathed  a  spirit 


ness.     J„   f, 


'«  "'arred   the  jubilant 


ilut  the  d 


esjxmding,  or  discord 


rom 


^'"iiKTatuIati 


ored 


iiave  n 


^'"""":^'--'tions  with  which 


'US  of   th 


let,    f 

"It  note 

e  nation. 


It  would  I 


of    bt 


en   coM/iiied   t 


v^'t'  have  been  h 


on- 


th 


'e'  nnpossible  to  descril 


e  variety  of  ,he   t 


;>  '"ere  vocal  greeting 


tered 


'e*  cither  the  beaut 


graceful  and 


""  either  hand  al 


tapest 


I>ii-tuies(|ued 


ni'mphal  emblems  which  I, 
■  ""*-'  ""'■  way.     In  add 


ITS. 


V  or 


ave  glit. 
ition  to  the 


'■y.  '"'(I   |)rismat 


t"  window,   with   whici 


:^"'«"-^"  i'"is  of  evergreens.  (1 


';■  '■•'"•'pics  of  color  fr 


passed  uiid 


h  !h 


Restive 
of  sal 


er  a  number  of  || 


e  towns  Were 


arches,      '/'h 


'e  most  ingen 


'"11  window 
^'ay.   we  have 


f.  an  arch  of  whec! 


ere  was  an  arch  of  eh 


'"US  and  sug- 


^r  atj   arch  of  hard 


eeses,  an  arch 


ware,  stoves, 


SEPT.  1874  HOME  AGAIX  AT  OTTAWA 

and  pots  and  pans,  an  arch  of  sofas  cl 


215 


hold  furniture,  an 


th 


leir  picturfs(|iie  costumt;: 


arch  of  ladders,  ladt-n  with  fl 


(lairs,  and  housc- 


rcnicn  in 


of  boats  ;  a  Frcc-trad 


,  an  arch  of  carria),a's,  an  arch 


arch  of  children,  and  last  of  all 


<i  arch,  a   Protect 


lonists'  arch,   an 


but 


rather  a  celestial   rainb 


an  arch—no,  not  an  arch. 


o\v 


Indeed,  the  heavens  themselves  drc 


)f  lov 


cly  youn,i,r  ladit-^ 


infrecjuently  a  nia),nc  ch 


•ppcil  fatness,  for  not 


descend  into  our  car 

has  l)een  nearly  sniotherc^d   !)eneath  tl 

ranied   down    upon    her,  f 

with  tlower.-- 


icese  or  other  comestibles  wo'ild 
riage.     As  f,,r   F.adv  Duff 


erm. 


sne 


ic  nose;;avs  which 


or   our   i)ath   has  been  st 


rewn 


U'e  had 


a  recepti(; 


returned    to    the  ira 
where  there  was  a  char 
did  not  jjo  f-irther  than  tl  _  . 
the  same  way  at  (  arleton   I'l 
speech.     Two  Arinisters,  Nf.  T 


llie  \'ict 


oria   Flail,  and  tl 


len 


met  us  at  Smith's  I'al 
eame  to  the  station, 


''i.     V».c  stopped  at    Smith's   l-'allj, 

'liin;r  li(([^.  reception,  tliou;,di  we 

^ic  station.     \Vc  also  stopped  in 

"   ;icc,  and   D.  made   his  last 

■I'tellier  and    \\.  Fonrnier 


"kI  at  Ottawa  all  the  Minist 


rhey  arc  all  pleaseil  with  tl 


cess  of  the  tour,  and  delii,rhted  with  the  'I 


ers 


le  suc- 


A  n 


oronto  speech. 


ne  fi:nard  of  honor  met  us  at  Ottawa.     The  C 


ernor-Generars   guards  looked  splendid,  and 
t  olonel  was  satisfied. 


lOV- 


even  our 


hot 
the 


\\ 


ofii 


e  Jiavc  a  si«h  of  relief  when  wo  ^oi  home.     The 
|e  looked  so  nice:  a  cheerful   little  fire  (merely  for 
l""k   of   the   thin^r)   in    the   draw 
ft"  jrrown,  and  with  a  fine  ^lass  sid 


room  re-papered  and  new 


rawintj-room;   Fred's 
I'  to  it  ;  my  bed- 


•<'arpeted,  and  lf)okinK'  so  larjr,- 


after  all  the  vat 

quiet  so  charm 

train  in  the  m 

dress,  of  not  havinjr  to  visit  three  or  four  towns  befo.. 
^^e^rotobH  auaiti.andof  having  "got  through"  with 
flying  colors— delightful! 


K'l's  rooms  and  cabins  I  have  slept  in  ;  the 
Ilk',  and  the  idea  of  not  having  to  catch  a 
">'ning,  of  not   having  to  repiv  to  an  a.I- 


2l6 


^ry  C^XAD/.^X  JOi-A'X.,/.. 


en.  xir 

land  tV'duulL'^uKl  wf ''  ''^"^'7^'-'"^'  ^""'""el  Cu.nber- 
time.  '    "''  ^'  "^"ifratulated  each  other  all  the 

•'^f)  ended  our  tour  nf   ■«,         u-  , 

fciuu  01  a  rest  now. 


ill 


:i 


I 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


WINTKR    AND    SI'kiM;,    1874-75. 

Otta-.'ii:  TufsJav,  S,-/<t,- »„'><;■  /,-//,,._ We  f,penrd  the 
Dominion  Ritlc  Match,  anil  I  (ircdfiic  first  shot,  and  am 
said  to  have  made  a  I)uirs-eve-which  some  people 
won't  believe,  in  spite  of  my  havin^r  received  an  en- 
graved silver  tablet  in  commemoration  of  the  event ! 

S,i//,n/,iy,  0</,>/>rrj,/.—l).  went  out  hiinlinjr.  'phey 
iKid  a  very  good  drag  f„r  ..bout  twenty  minutes,  and 
lii"n  a  bagged  fox  was  let  loose;  but  he  sat  (piietly 
looking  at  the  hunt,  and  refused  to  stir  The  man  neat 
gave  him  a  kick,  upon  which  he  ran  at  him.  and  after 
him  with  open  mouth  ;  and  at  last  he  bolted  ii,t„  a  wood 
and  .so  was  altogether  a  faibire. 

S<,/un/av,  fo//,.~\\\'  have  received  invitations  from 
New  York  :  one  to  I).,  from  some  of  the  principal  men 
there,  inviting  him  to  dinner  on  M..ndav,  igth  ;  and  one 
from  Mr.s.  Wil.on,  asking  if  she  might  issue  invitations 
to  meet  me  on  the  same  afternoon. 

Aro„<An,  /j//r-We  set  off  on  our  journ.-v  to  Nt-w 
York,  leaving  about  tc  1  in  the  morning  and' traveling 
all  day  and  all  night  till  we  got  to  our  destination  th,' 
next  morning. 

nc-s</uy,  /^7///._\Vhen  we  arrived  the  town  looke.l 
gay  and  bright— so  many  creepers  and  trees,  and  bits  .  f 
gardens  and  lawns  :  but  tin.  day  wan  dull  and  cold.  We 
had  visits  from  some  people,  made  some  engagements 


1; 


I!    I 


218 


^"''  '""'^   'I  ffoou   walk   do 


^/KC./AWZ>/^^y^^^,^,^^ 


cir.  xnr 


sent   us  a  box  f, 


and 

wliicli 


'"■  "  -Madame  Ari;^ot 


t-'nj<)>'ed  it  much.     \\ 


'«  comfortable,  b 


'-'   are  at  the  IJre 


way.     A[r.   j, 
'<>  which  we 


'";-'  fire  are  $,8.50  a  d 


•  ""t  very  dear.      (> 


h)d;,r 


I) 


l"^  ^^'i"  '>e  ($5)  /-r  a  .1 


y.  arid  the  servants'  b 


uncan 
went, 

'OfTt  IIou.se, 
'^r  rooms  and 


'""^T  is  made  di 
•' l>nce  attached   to'eaci 


'»y  eacli. 


eat  in 
and  that 
more  "  will 


:'.i,^reeable  to  me  by  tl 


«:  "ly  soup,  t(j  know  tl 
">y  potato  cost; 


1  th 


'"S-     I  do  not  lik 


'oard  and 


'"«  the    pric, 


«:<>  d 


"wn  as  another  orde 


''at  my  share  of  it  is 
30    cents,  and    that 


'e  wr»u  Tiav- 

e,  when 

eents, 

'  some 


wi'^lies,  but  it  mak 
than  it  usually  is. 


■^   enables  one    to    be 


on  the  bill.     Sec 


t-'s  that  virt 


teonomical,  if 


ll'fi///t's  A 


some  en^rajrenient 
littl 


/^//i.~Mv.  s 


s  ar 


I't-'  even  more  disa^r 
;""  ^^'ard  called,  and  I 


one 
reeable 


slioppni^r,   wantin^r, 


parasol.     I  ^a 
with  a  little  sili 


e  made  with   him.     / 
;imon,ir   other  th 
or  a  vei 


bel 


In  tl 


found  th 


'e  afternoon  I 


asked  £6  f, 

^'r  at  the  handle. 


■y  ordinary  black 


leva 
«t'nt  to  do  a 

'".i,^S  a  dark 


one. 


St 


c-  distances   j 


•'^^'t  ""t  on  a  round  of 


reet,  which  is  mil 
and  pitied  himself 


'""lense.      I    |i.,(| 


to 


;;^J';vay.  and  I),  started  to  walk 


''"'  an  opera-box  <: 


^■^'ry  much.     In  th 


visits,  and 

8^0    to    74th 

there. 


'"^"ly    HIas. 
order.     The  h 


'l"h 


'\'^'"  "s,  we  took  the  Fletcl 


e  evening:,  liavin, 


t-'  perform 


liers  to 


wants  some  more  boxes 
had  was  very  open,  and  h 
i''ii«:lish  one. 


""^e  'shne.  thou«htoo! 


«^'-s    were  n,.,  of   the    I 


see 
atti 


and 


mo 


>arc-lookin;r.     j^ 


ad 


none  o 


0 


'^AffKuAn;  /f///,__'i'j, 


re  shade.     'Pbe  b 
f  t'le  privacy 


o.x  we 
of  an 


;«-"ed  by  Mr.  stuart,  ami 


is  evenin,ir  u-e  went  to 


tl)oronj-hly  American 
riie   (Jilded  .\ 


were  very  much 


piece  from  Mark  'I 


a  theatre 


l)y  a 


amused 


The  h 


waui's  novel  of 


v^uvk  s«.,„c,i  ;:s,,,,,;,ii;  pu.",!,"';"-  T'  '""• '""  "'^ 


hero 


ine 


OCT.  1874 


NEW   YORK. 


219 


shoots  her  false  lover  with  a  revolver,  and  the  last  act 
caricatured  a  Va-ikcc  court  of  justice,  with  its  appeal  to 
the  feelings  of  the  jury,  and  its  verdict  of  "Nut  (Juilty," 
though  the  murder  vvas  completely  proved.  The  prin- 
cipal actor  waij  excellent— Raymond  by  name— and  the 
w(nnan  was  g(,od  in  the  tragic  parts,  but  looked  much 
too  wicked  in  her  innocent  days  at  the  beginning  of  the 
play. 

Mr.  Stuart  told  me  he  made  /"zo.ooo  a  year  by  his 
theatre.  He  is  getting  up  Sunday  ccjncerts,  to  "  rJlieve 
the  loneliness  (;f  the  Sabbath  evening." 

Ladies  go  to  theatres  in  bonnets,  and  were  not  very 
smart  at  the  opera. 

I'rUay,  i6th.—\  saw  Sir  Kdward  'I'hornt  )n,  who 
called,  and  at  the  apjiointed  time  I),  and  I  started  for 
(leneral  Wilson's  li..use  in  74th  Street.  1  was  in  a  morn- 
nig  gown  and  bonnet,  but  found  my  h.)stess  in  a  low 
dress!  Everyone  else,  however,  was  like  myself,  and 
only  those  took  off  their  bonnets  who  (I  suppose)  looked 
best  without  them.  I  had  to  do  duty,  standing  at  the 
door  all  the  time,  and  shaking  hands  with  every  one,  for 
two  hours. 

Mr.  Sam  Ward  sent  me  a  most  lovely  bouquet  of 
pink  and  yellow  rosebuds  for  this  reception. 

Siitiiiiia\\  iytli.—-\Si:  drove  through  Central  Park  to 
Jerome  Park,  where  the  races  took  place.  We  were  in 
the  jockey  Club  stand,  opposite  the  Grand  Stand,  and 
the  horses  passed  twice  between  the  two,  so  that  we  saw 
both  the  beginning  and  the  end  of  the  race  very  well. 

Sir  J'ldward  Thornton  dined  with  I),  and  me.  and  we 
to()k  him  to  a  theatre  in  which  we  had  been  given  a  box. 
We  had  not  been  there  three  minutes  before  we  found  it 
was  such  a  piece  which  we  could  possibly  not  stay  to 
see.  Im;igi!,<j  tlie  history  '>f  the  temptati'on  and  fail  of 
man  in  burles(|ue  upon  the  stage ! 


t 


:i!:i 


If 


220 


''/Kr./.v^z?/^.vy^r/^.v^/.. 


•S////(/, 


en.  XIII 


',n\ 


t')-(iay:  littlest- 


/S//L-~\Ve  went  t 


ivice  and  much 


'!  ^"   ""satisfactory  church 


aiul  met  all  the  world  d 


Am 


ericans  are  better  d 


oin^r  the 


serm 
sam 


""■     I  walked  I 


A; 


lome, 
'  tTovvd,  the 


think  that  th 


ressed  than  we  are,  l,„t  I  tl 


(-'V  excel  our  best-dressed 


10  not 


appear  at  Ascot  or  (iood wood;  and 


tlu 


people,  such  as 


■""■;'■  »"  pretty.     We  Ji„„,   „:,    "  ,  "^■J'  ^":'  ";".  <"  n.y 
verv  ri,:l,.     Hi,  ,,.,.„,„  ^  .         ."';  ■"  "'^'enl,  an  ■  musl  be 

«t  was  removed,  the  dish  „f  f,  '^'^^^'^.'^^  -  -'t  each  course 
'"•'^cdatfora^ni^    1^^^^^^^ 

a-ithecoverreplacecl:  ;;;,;t^:.r'-  "'"'"'''^^' 
P-ture  ,.dlery  and  the  house.  ,  i"  ,d'\7r  "s.""  "" 
she  seemed   very  simple  and   natur  u       "  '^""'"■'- 

room  m  turn:  a  little  in  th.  ,i  ""   '''''   '"  ^'^»h 

-the  library,  a  reJ::r;r^:-^^^^^ 

^V'ile  in  her  bedroom,  etc      Th..     ."■''"""""' ^'  "^^'^ 

••^'»«  I  ^"Ppose  it  is  slept  in    but    t  d"'  "  '?'  '^'■^^"^'^"'' 
were.  '        '     "'  ''  ^"^'•'^  ""t  look  as  if  it 

There  was  a  lady  there  who   was   just  liL- 
t>onal  ^  ankee  on   the  staLa-      She  n  ''  ""''^*"- 

«he  had  told  her  husband  she  .0   1  '"""""•^■•'-  '''-'^^  that 

f-  hi-,  as  she  meant     o,;^^^^^^^ 

she  could.     Then  she  inf  .  •      *^''""  ■''  'P''^"'<  '^'^  ^'ver 

f"lnKuinert.rhe         td       '"^T.^'''^'''->^J^^^ 
«'-e  January,  and  th;;;^;:;     ,:;;:■-- --ySund.^ 

which  she  had  not  been  ill  <     sh  "^^'asion  upon 

'-/iomestictroubles.^;;;dh  rs;;:",r;n?'r'^"^^'' 

policeman  to  turn  her  cook  oMf   \         u  ''   ^"  ^^'^^  ^ 

got  so  far,  a  more  ftshi      ,  ''""''''•     ^^''^^"  ^he 

-i^;-pera..ton,e;t:n:;^;;-:';:r-''^-^-"'d 

^  eveninif  I  went  to  the  opera 


CH.  XIII 

iry  chiirrh 
'keel  hf)n]c, 
crowd,  the 

I  cio  not 
e,  such  as 
not,  to  my 
•Stewart,  a 

'  imist  he 
irble.  Ill 
tliree.  A 
<'lj  course 
<"c,  to  be 
L'  lielped, 

saw  flic 
tcwart — 

in  ea(h 
lort  time 
1,  a  Httio 
cautiful, 

as  if  it 

I'onven- 
'•st,  that 
n  black 
as  ever 
cheer- 
■>inulay 
n  upon 

to  tell 

«ct  a 
en  she 
would 

•aid  a 
opera 


OCT.  1874         DRIVE    TO   "SLEEPY  HOLLOW, 


221 


1:    II 


\.ith  Mrs.  Stevens.     It  was  "  Ruv   Hi 


is      a^raiti.  as 


Al- 


bani,  who  had  just  arrived,  was  too  unwell  to  siiijr  yet. 
C.  Vznaga  was  the  young  lady  of  the  party,  and  there 
was  a  stream  of  young  men  jiassing  through  all  the  tunc. 
No  one  seemed  to  dream  of  listening  I 

I>.  was  dining  with  thirty  gentlemen  at  Delinon- 
ico's ;  the  dmner  went  off  well,  and  there  were  no 
speeches. 

Tuesday,  20th. — I),  had  a  breakfast  given  to  him  by 
Mr.  Sam  Ward,  which  he  liked  immensely,  and  in  the 
evening  a  dinner,  which  he  also  enjoyed. 

Thursday,  23d.— Wo.  started  off  before  nine  in  the 
morning  to  a  railway-station,  where  we  were  met  by  Mr. 
Dudley  Field,  and  went  by  train  to  Tarrytown. 

There  a  coach-and-four,  driven  by  Mr.  Dudley  Field, 
Jr.,  awaited  us.  We  were  glad  to  see  the  country  ;  there 
were  pretty  villas  all  along,  and  a  capital  roail.  The 
view  ought  to  have  been  lovely,  but  a  fog  hung  over  the 
Hudson,  and  hid  its  opposite  bank.  We  returned  by 
road  to  Irvington,  where  we  saw  Washington  Irving's 
"Sleepy  Hollow,"  passed  in  front  of  Cyrus  Field's  house 
to  see  the  view,  and  then  stopjied  at  Dudley  l'"ield*s,  Jr., 
for  lunch,  or  rather  breakfast,  for  we  had  only  had  a  cup 
of  tea  before*  starting.  Every  one  was  very  kind,  and  we 
enjoyed  it  very  much  ;  then  we  drove  back  to  the  station 
and  returned  to  New  York. 

Friday,  2jd. — Another  country  day.  This  time  we 
took  the  ferry,  and  went  over  to  Orange  Valley,  where 
Mrs.  Yznaga  lives.  She  gave  us  Spanish  and  Cuban 
dishes;  the  first,  "gumbo,"  a  curious  gelatinous  soup, 
with  oysters,  chicken,  sassafras-leaves,  and  red  pepper 
in  it.  Then  a  dish  with  rice  and  tomatoes  in  the  mid- 
dle, grilled  chicken  and  fried  bananas  round ;  then 
various  sorts  of  light  pastry,  and  chiK-ol.-itf'  tn  flrink. 
We  returned   about   four  o'clock.      Our  paity  consist- 


1-'.      Ul 


in 


222 


^rV  CA.VADIAX  JOURX.^L. 


e(i  of  Miss   St 


Ilartc 
W 


evens,   Madame 


van    Hoffman 


ca  XIII 
and    Bret 


'^   dined   with    Mr 


and    Mrs.   J) 


'"id   Mrs.  M„rt 


"",  and   met   Mi 


Gen 


era! 


'lavl 


:;;r'f ;,-''"- '<a..<ioipi.  R 


.30,  as  wc  were  all 


or,    and   Consiiela    ^ 


.oh 


mson. 


"s   a  very  nice,  prett 


goin;T()n   („  f 


^"•'Sa.     We   dined   at 


first 


act  of    "I 


Alban 


iicia. 


y   dinner,  and 


'"-'  <'P«Ta.     They  gave 


we 


i,  wh 


and 


)nly 


ni 


,  who  sang   for  th 


t-'iijoyed   the   rest 


well  received,  and 


e  second  time  1 


'>-sed   the 
very  niiieh. 


Stitiiri/u 


Mr.  JJel 


T,    24th.~-\\ 


we  are  proud  of  h 


K're,  was 


s   ve 


gentleman   wl 


'"ont's  i)icture-ga!l 


^    went   with    .Mr.    I) 


^•'■as  a  C.'anadiai 


Ty 


went  with   Mr.  Hierstad 


1"   '«  rich,  and  coll 


'-''■y,  and  on   to  the  h 


uncan   to  see 


oLise  of  a 


wards  made  a  round  of  gall 


"•    to   see  his 


ccts  pictures.     D.  tl 


In  th 


eries. 


pictures,  and  aft 


len 
er- 


V 


Vo 

lad 


e    evening  we  saw  "J 


i"iff  -Man  '•  acted  I 
iL's  here  call  "a  1 


he    R 


Smith 


ove 


'aw 


ly  m 
25tfi.~\).  had  to  lea 


y  Mr.  Montague,  wl 


omance  of  a  Poor 


lorn  the  young 


""le  o'clock,  .so   we  di„cd 


ve  for  \\  ashington  hef 


peopi 


It  am 


used 


quietly   with   som 


I'liner  differed  from 


's  handsome  and 


'""'   '"  "''•'^^■'•ve  in   what  wav    tl 
one  we  should  give.     ThnV  1 


l^iit  their  table  was  I 


comfortabi 


e,  and  they  are 


ore 


e   very   nice 


licir 


louse 


ad  absolu 


itely 


=»'"ge  for  the  numi 


verv  rich 


of  ch 

^Ve  had   ovst 


nothingonit— Motabonb 


'er  oT  people,  and 


"la,  a  candle,  a  bit  of  food 


"'".  a  (lower,  a  bit 
so  it  looked  very  bare. 


ers    soup,  fish,   an  ,v//M',   cold   be 


av- 


compliment  to  the  Sund 
clotli  was  then  taken  off,  and 
sert-table  once  ag 


ef— a 


■an( 


s  a 


am. 


a   hot   pudding,     'n^ 
we  sat  at  a  mahogany  des- 


M(>nt/,n\  26t/i.---[) 


rived  at  si.v  in  th 


went  to  U'ashintrt 


to 
Th 


le  morning,  and  w 


on,  where  he 


='  niMet  sleep   in   his    train-bed,  wh 


's  just  settling  do 


ar- 


or 


"ton  had  rome  to  meet  h 


at  once.     Sir  Edward 


nn. 


en  he  heard  Sir  E. 


.gave  hini  a 


so  he  had  to  jump 
Clip  of  tea,  and  took 


OCT.   1874 


THE   XOA'MAL   SCHOOL 


223 


him  a  walk,  then  breakfast,  and  then  a  drive  to  all  the 
sights.  He  saw  the  President,  wiu,  was  very  civil  and 
called  upon  him,  and  Mr.  Fish,  and  then  started  for  Balti- 
more, where  he  slept. 

Tiu-sdiiy,  2jt/i.~\).  returned,  and  when  he  had  had  a 
cup  of  tea  we  paid  a  few  visits  in  dilferent  directions ; 
after  dinner  he  attended  a  political  meeting  at  Tammany 
Hall,  which  mterested  him. 

Wt'diifSiiay,  2St/i.—\\\    the    morning    Mr.  Cyrus  Field 
came  for  us,  and  we  went  to  see  the  Normal  Sc'ho(jl.     We 
sat  upon  a  platform  with  the  teachers,  and  at  nine  pre- 
cisely music  struck  up,  and    1,200   girls  marched  m,  and 
in  about  two  and  a  half  minutes  were  seated.     Of  course, 
this  can  only  be  done  by  the  most  perfect  arrangement,' 
and  is  quite   a  military  manoeuvre.     A   chapter  in    the' 
Bible  was  read,  and  a  hymn  sung.     The  President  got 
up  and  said :  "  Young  ladies,  I  present  to  you  the  Karl 
ol  I  )ufferin,  C.overnor-deneral  of  Canada,  and  his  Lady  "  ; 
and   1).   said   a  few  appropriate   words.     'I'he  President 
then    said:    ^' The  young  lailies  of  the  First  Section  will 
repeat  their  quotations";  and  one  after  another  a  num- 
ber of   girls  got  up,  and  repeated   something   they  had 
learned.     This  is  a  voluntary  e.vercise,  and  is  intended  to 
give  them  confidence  in  speaking  before  a   number  of 
people.     These  girls  are  all   being   trained  as  teachers 
After  this  a  chord  was  struck,  and  thev  all  rose,  and  to 
music  marched  to  the  various  class-rooms.     We  followed 
to  the  e.xercise-rooms,  where  we  saw  a  hundred  or  so  do- 
ing gymnastics.     Then  we  peeped  in  at  chemistry,  geol- 
ogy, drawuig,  ind  Latin  classes. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  a  common  school,  and  the 
children's  department  was  very  interesting.  'I'hcre  were 
1.150  collected  in  one  room,  and  thev  marched  in  at  a 
much  slower  pace  than  their  elders,  and  with  an  air  of 
solemnity  that  was  most  amusing.     The  second  half  of 


ij 


'   'I 

I  \\ 

\  si 


224 


My  CAA-AD/AX  JOU/fXAL. 


en.  xiii 


the  room  had  the  seats  raised   towirr!  fK«  .      , 

Leads  wc.,„  „„,;„;"; ,:::";  ,'"•■  t""'' ""  ■•■5° 
•he bis  b.,ys and  ;■;?'"'•:,,::' T ""■  "■'  ='» -" 

school  in  ,„..  „„,  |,!;if;,i;,;       ''"^  ■'"  ^'S-  ^'"Wren  a. 
"fee,  aiiu  uicii  1  realized  how  w-mfin,,  i   u    . 

of  speed.  '  "  "'"■  varieties 

Wlien  we  reached  „„r  des.i„ation_tl,e  Revere  H„„ 
«„.„„-,  ,es.ed,,n,.O.p,,,.,,n,is;aprj":n 

'M)|)ear  to  be  very  busy  i.ui  f.,II   nf  ,  ''''  ^"* 

houses  l„.,l:  o,„.    We  visited  Bunker's  HatulHr'     1 
ColleRe.     The  Metnorial   Hall   l,„i|e  ,  '  "''"■'"■'' 

'he  fortner   students  who  w  re       |  e   '        „'""n" ■■'■  "' 
where  the  vouno-  m.„  a-  ,  '    "'"   '^ar,    is 

saw  one  studel,?^  '  ■'""'  '"  ^■">'  h--""ls<""e.     We 

The,  :;  \,'';'r'^  ™7'  PI-™  -d  comfortable 

nice  oid.f,;:hiL,;.u-\^ ::";;.;;"  '"-^  "■"■ "- » 

^henHetoo.eo„.n.an:\:;';[l^::tir;;r;r'Th? 


,-l'^l 


CH.  XIII 

back,  and  a 
-cJ  the  scene 
'S  tlie  1,150 
vas  clapping 
We  also  saw 

t'iiildren  at 

'Jfhton  last 
fetch  him. 
i  sat  by  me 
ting  I  had 
rst  arrived 

)eds  them- 

I'he  engine 

"lore  like 

1  varieties 

:re  House, 
id  took  a 

the  town. 
Vork,  but 
vehicles. 
le   "resi- 
blic  gar- 
ly  good 
Harvard 
mory  of 
War,    is 
ne.     We 
fortable. 
im  in  a 
IS  living 
y.    The 


OCT.   1874 


BOSTON. 


225 


poet's  study  is  a  plainly-furnished  room,  with  a  large 
orange-tree  standing  in  one  window.  He  is  a  most 
charming  -.n.K  hnahle  old  nian ;  he  gave  me  one  of 
his  poems  as  a  souvenir  of  my  visit,  and  he  invited 
D.  to  dine  at  the  Club  dinner  to-morrow,  so  we  re- 
main for  that.  Just  as  we  were  going  out  of  the  house 
Ills  daughter  Alice  appeared,  and  he  intro  lu-  rl  her 
to  us. 

We  have  our  meals  in  the  American  fa-'ii-n  u  re, 
in  a  public  room:  there  are  numbers  ot  si..ill  tai  ies 
for  ten  people;  sometimes  we  are  alone,  -  r.K  umes 
there  are  other  people  at  our  table;  at  ever)  meal  the 
first  ceremony  always  is  to  place  a  glass  of  iced  water 
before  us. 

In  the  evening  we  w.ent  to  the  Hoston  Theatre— a 
fine  one,  with  spacious  entrance-hall.  'J'he  theatre  itself 
very  large  and  beautifully  decorated,  finer  than  anv  we' 
saw  in  New  York.  The  piece  was  "  Belle  Lamar  "  i 
story  of  the  War,  and  was  very  interesting  and  well'put 
upon  the  stage.  Here  they  have  a  farce  both  before 
and  after,  while  in  New  Vork  there  was  only  one  piece 
given  in  each  theatre. 

Saturday,  31st.  — W^  drove  this  morning  to  Dor- 
chester Heights,  and  to  see  some  more  of  the  city,  and 
at  2.30  I),  went  to  his  Club  dinner.  He  has  been  very 
lucky  to  be  here  for  it.  It  takes  place  onlv  once  a 
month,  and  he  met  at  it  Longfellow,  Lowell,  kmer.son, 
Dana,  Dana,  Jr.,  Holmes  (the  Autocrat  of  the  Breakfast 
Table),  etc.  They  have  all  promised  him  books  as  a 
remembrance  of  the  occasion. 

I  took  a  walk  in  the  town,  and  in  the  evening  D  and 
I  went  to  the  Museum  Theatre.  It  is  not  so  fine  as  the 
Boston,  but  it  is  uncommon  in  one  wav;  you  pass  through 
a  museum  to  it-statues,  pictures.  sUifTcd  animals,  etc. 
I  he  play  was  "  Arkwrighfs  Wife,"  bv  Tom  Tavlor-very 


Ml 


m 


226 


^fV  ^■t-y--tD/AAr  /oc^^y^t^ 


K'>'n\  iiulced.     '/'he  h 


cir.  xui 


all  tlif 


parts  were  well  (llicd 


^Su,u/,iY,  Noirmk 


eroi„e  was  p.e„ya„„  graceful, 


and 


we  could  )r^^^. 


•r  ls/.—\\\.  tried 


t'Tiicd  out  to  be  a  I 


^1  seat,  and  the  tliird 


two  churches  befo 


Old-I' 


we  attenij)ted  t 


'i^^l'sh  chapels,  and  th 


"iversalist  church.     I 


re 


"  enter 


very  slightly  altered,  and 


c  servi 


^'c  was 


'I'll 


's  service  is  intended  to 


a  sermon  upon  All  S 


t  IS  one  of  the 
our  /,ituri,ry 


"Pini<;ns  mav  be 


th 


and 


suit  everybodv.wh 


^■y  can  not  s 


'"  '"^"•>-  places  in  Canad 


aints'  Day. 
itever  their 


ha  /e  these  i: 


\Ve  d 


"PP'<rt  a  number  of  diifj, 
'•'vcrsalist  churcl 


;i  where 


nei;^rh|),,rh 


rove  afterward.s,  and 


ics. 


rent  .sects,  they 


ood 


^'■y  is  Knglish-look 
^V'e  had  to  d 


inir 


^avv  a  «:reat  deal  of  ,1,^ 
le  coun- 


_"e  Villas  are  very  pretty,  and  tl 


ever,  it  will  enabl 


e  at  foiir—Amer 


'can  .system !    I{o 


thirt 


een  h 


Moiiiiii 


loiirs'railwavt 


•'.  ^'/.—'I'he  d 


*:/'^  to  so  to  bed  early,  and 
>-'n<>rrow  to  Afontrea'l 


prepare  for 


than   I   expected 
We  had 


'y  passed  much 


.  and  we   real  I 


I  very  comfortal 


v  e 


""Jre  pleasantly 


"joyed  th 


pas.sed   through    I 


>'i'  compartment  t 


e  journev, 


M 


ountains  and 


'cautiful    scenery    ( 


'cut  meals.     ( 
•""cr.  but,  thank 


half 


^^'vcral  rivers),  and  had 
■cnerally  they  onl 


o  ourselves, 
^^'t'"i^'   the  (;reen 


y  wait  te 


an  h 


our. 


^  t<'  our  "hi^h  ofh 


two  most  exrcl- 
"  minutes  for 


ce, 


H 


!»r  to  relate  since 


•    they  yave  us 


•///—I  1 


''ave  had  nothin 


cpwortii  I)ix( 


""•  '■^'turn  here,  but  to-dav  I 


^'■'^^\\  Harriet,  to  tl 


".  who  is  Kta 


the( 


Four  h 


lor.ses  started  i 


"e  steeplechase 


y'"«:  wi  h  us,  hi 


V,  particu- 
took  Mr. 


'.  "IS  sun,  and 


'OVerm)r.(;enerarsChall 


,';  ';"^''  ^"^-e:  the  first  was 


was   that   of 


'jockey."     fii^i, 


a    man   of  fifty 


^'"^^e  Cup,  and  the  onlv  faU 


«even-rather  ok]    m   ,| 


lay  stiiffor :::  ;:;r:r'"r'"  ^'^  ^  i-^.  and ;;; 


ened  us;  but  h 


cconds  on  tht 


e  rid 


er 


Jfround  and  frij^rht- 


^'  tf"t  up  and  walked  about  all  th 


e  res?  of 


NOV.  1874 


"''  ^^raccful,  and 


OTTAIVA. 


227 


every  ,i.e  >:  ^^ZiJV^Z  "'  ',"'  "?'  '*'« 
W^,,  --/.-The  new  (General,.  Se.by  Smy,,,.  and 

clay.-'  'rhe'ii;:  r'  ::.c:';rv:,rr  '''v^ 

^.^.^^^  wh.ch  all  the  young  IacJ.es  have  been  prac 

Inilians  and  otl,er  ■■  „.i|,|  „„,„..     „  I  "  ""  "V 

•The  General  commamling  the  Cn„a,li«n  Mili.m^ 


228 


^fy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL, 


cir.  XIII 


unless  some  kuici  friend  assassinates  him.     I  was  thre.t 
cneclwUhaw,feforlHnUuuianUnhopesth"     S; 
c  H.S  su,,,.est.on  I  have  made  as  to  tl./appropri.ue  e 
of  .nak.ng  the  pair  stand  as  spectators  over  tl>'sk  tine 

T::::::t::ei::s'^^'"'''^^"^'"^^^'^^-'--'"^ 

materil    c^,    f      '  '"■""  ""'''  ""'"^  "'^^  ^^  '^e  same 
matenal   coals  for  eyes,  and  an  old  hat  on  his  head-  he 
•s  ei^riu  feet  h.^^h,  and  stands  ri.r|u  i„  ,„,•  wiv  hi        ' 
view  of  the   I'arhament    mulditu.s       "   the       '      '' T^ 
was  illuminated  with  red  and  g;i!;n  f.re  ""'"'"'  '" 

Tuesday,  December  i ::th '/'h,.r,.  ,..., . 

.1  ^  1  iiere  was  some  verv  pooH 

oboggan.ng  to-day.     The  new  slide  is  must  e?citl 

for.  the  natural   hill    not   hein.consi.ieredut^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
teep.a  «reat  addition  has  been   made  to  it.     A  ^ 

iS  •;;uitun"'•^^r^"''''^"'^"^^'^'«^--^- 
s  ;  ;  \  "  """"''  perpendicular,  the  toboj^^an 
sta  ts  at  a  rap.d  rate  down   it-and   its  oaupant   has 

t^^T  T  T  ^"'^"^^"^  "^  '"-^  -^"^'^  ^-  y 

r  ased.  To-day  the  wooden  part  of  the  slide  is  a 
shce  of  ue,  so  the  tobo^rgans  rush  down  it  at  a  tre- 
mendotis  pace.  «  nc 

/W,jr,  /.;V/,._Gwen  and  Katie*  arrived  about  five 
o  clock,  lookuig  extremely  well. 

C//m/;,.^.  A,,,  /.,,;/„,,  ^,-//„1a„  i^j^al  Christmas  Day 
-the  weather  lovely,  twenty  de^^rces  of  frost,  and  a 
)n«ht  sun.  The  children  had  received  presents  from 
the.r  governess  and  nurses  in  the  mornin^^  and  were  in 
Kreat  exc.tement.  After  breakfast  they  came  down  and 
we  .ntroduced  Nellv  a,  Uermie  to  a  dolls"  house  w." 
K-l.«hted  them.  Hallio  ha<I  dressed  a  number  of  inhab- 
itants  for  it,  and  it  is  a  (harming  toy. 

In  the  afternoon,  every  one.  except  me.  went  out  and 
had  a  very  pleasant  afternoon  skating  and  tobogganing. 

•  My  sisters. 


ved  about  five 


JAN.  1875  Cnil.DRE.^S   TABLEAUX.  ^, 

I  found  plenty  of  ,,vork  at  the  Christmas-trce.  wlmh  was 
ready  d.rectly  after  tea.    The  only  co,.,rtn,.ps  of  the  d,  ^ 
happened  just  a.s  the  ehiklren  were  iumpin/whh  e..c,te- 
mcnt  to  ,.,  ,n  to  see  it.     The  ,..s  went  out.  and  we  ha,l 
to  wa.t  more  than  half  an  hour  for  it  to  rea.ver      In  the 
mean  t.me  we  got  up  a  dwarf,  wh.ch  amused  then,     ,u,  h 
Ihe  tree  was  next   lighted   up,  and  was  greeted   with 
cheers.     The  r.fteen  children-the  eldest  deven  ye 
old-were   all   perfectly  delighted,  and   were  much   t'oo 
pleased  w.th  the  treasures  they  i,ad  received  to  feel  iu- 
c  ined  to  play  games  afterwards.     They  simply  sat  on 
the  floor  absorbed  m  their  new  possessions,  will,  s.ghso" 
perfect  happmess.     The  youngest  of  the  party  wat  o„o 
..the  happiest ;  she  ran  about  the  floor  pulling  a  sheep 
after  her,  and  looked  such  a  pretty  little  dear.     The  Z 
people  also  went  away  laden.     We  were  fourteen  at  din- 
ner, w.th  governesses,  secretaries,  etc.,  and  in  the  evea-. 
ing  we  played  games. 

/•//;/<,.•,  January  r.  ..sy^.-W.  were  more  or  loss  f,usy 
in  the  morning  makmg  the  arra.,gen,ents  for  the  chil- 

'  Thorn  -V"'  '""'  "•'°  '"  ''°   "'^  '''■  -^"  '  -- 
at  home     to  receive  visitors.     Wc  had  ., ,  gentlemen 

who  said  "How  do  you  do>-  had  a  .rl.,««  ,  f  ' 

cup  of  tea,  and  passed  away  ^'    ''  "^  ""'"^  ""^  ' 

We  refreshed  ourselves  with  a  little  tea  when  the  re 
c  Pt  ...  was  over,  and  then  I  dressed  for  the  evening 
and  helped  to  paint  the  actors.  ^' 

The  play  took  place   upon  a  small  stage  erected  in 
the  ante-room  to  the  ball-room.     M,-.  Hii,  :"r 
P.ece  and  painted  the  scenes.     •'  Pussy-cat.  Mew-.ne     " 
was  the  name  of  the  play,  and  it  went  of  ve  y  w    , 

•-I  .as  excellent  in   the  par.   he  uiulertook.^^^L^^^^^ 
«H1  .nade-up.  with  rcl  stockings,  red  knickerbockers  a 

hrowi.  l,Iouse.  and  red  wiLr     I-r.-.i  \y...., ^'  * 

magician,  in  a  dressing-gown  covered 'with  my Jl!;;^;;;;; 


I. 


1    1 


i  :k 


230 


^^y  C^A^^D/A.V/OUA'X^r.. 


CH.  XIII 

si),^ns.     Nelly  looked  very  nrertv  in      .  • 
^"K  a  crown  on  her  hc.d       \  '"  '''^''''^  ^"^ 

Ardne  was  a  prince    n^''^  T   "'"^'  '"   ''^'^  ^and. 

"  >ran  in  the  Mo""  rfd  n"'  "'"'^  =  '''^-'"-'  '^e 
all  the  oti,ers  in  th;  same  u-ll  '7"'  '  ""'^  '''^'^>'  =  ^"^ 
colors.     Terence's  fu?        '       "^  '"'"'^''"^  '"  ^'ff^Tent 

-.and,r:^;^;:\r:-;--^^-^^^ 

much  unproved  in  acting  since  1  .st  v  1  '"  '"''^ 

I'll..   /.//  -"'""-i.  last  \c.ir. 

'  "ill  dcscn,:  .r,™,''  """■»'■"•''  '--■™n,,.clf,„.„ich 
"ea.l.  her  .a.  ,hr,'        "    "'"  "','■'"'''  •«  "«  '"P;  be- 

»""  "■.-.»  c.,c„a::.u ':  z';:z:rv  '"^  ™"^^' 

tlieir  feet  in  his  rt-d  m.  P"^'t'<>n.      lercncc  lav  at 

"K|..e<.  up  „,.„  >.,„•■:„!'•*•-'■  t,  ■'"'■^  «- 

the  Kncounter.thrReultn"' ,"';■""  '"  '  ^— -"-'t : 
Victor.  ^'"'^'  ^"^'  '''"  Coronation  of  the 

ma.::ti;L^cti;^C,t;e:^^^ 

V  ine.  ■rutcncr,  and  won  a  cup  presented 

pi.r"'  nt,"  ;;t  :.":i"r '  """'■•  "-■'  »•=  ->--"  >>- 

■■"'or ,„.« *„H.ir   ,,,""*■"■'' ""' "">■  """py. ••.">! 

lil'le  pcple  left  *"'""  ""  '■'<l'',  »'l'™  ,l,e 

'on;;::;;:':;;-::;\-'];,r  r'  "■'  "-"-"• '  -p*-  -« 

"^Ve  had  not  left  Ottnu-i  t-~  n-"-  .       , 

'  •""  f^'inutes  before   the 


fiite  tarlatan  and 
a'ld  in  her  hand, 
^■t-r;  Terence,  the 
^  pink  fairy;  and 
ume  in  different 
■  tiiroiijrh  the  full 
All  have  very 

Kui  .o  be  behind 
ne  myself,  which 

painted  in  dark 
'ick  opened,  dis- 

silver  and  red. 

at  the  top  ;  bf. 
y  in  the  center, 
Terence  lay  at 
louped  beneath 
-■     They    were 
aby  amused  us 
f  the  pcrform- 
a  t'»iirnament  : 
^nation  of  the 

of  thecurling;- 
cup  presented 

-  repeated  the 
for  sixty.five 
•y  happy,  and 
'jlit,  when  the 


FEB.  1875 


CL'KUXG. 


train  came  to  a  stand,  and  all 


J31 


out.     By  their  exertions  we 
yards,  when  a  second 


our  sweepers  had  fo  jump 


K^ot  on  another  few  hundred 


This  kind  of  b 


stop  ctccurred. 


at  the  end  of  which 


usiness  went  on   for  near! 


time  the  Parlia 


y  an  hour. 


still  in  sijrht.    After  a  little  1 


ment  Build 


in^r^  uire 


m 


On  arrivnij^r  at  Montreal  we  found 


lowever,  matters  improved. 


ff  very  cheerful,  and 


our  rooms  look- 


which  those  marvelous  'adies* 


a  nice   little    supper    rcadv.   foi 


Tufsi/ay,  j6t/t.~\\ 


were  aj^aiii  quite  rcadv, 


Rink;  found  the  P.ethunes,  M 
and  a  couple  of  nice  Knjr'lisl 


e  started  at  eleven  o'clock  for'th 


i:'is  Campbell,  Mr.  M 


ax  we 


lows  we  passed  a   couple  of   h 
executed  a  brilliant  lancers 


J(lishmen.     With  these  plavfel- 


ours  very  i)loasantly.  and 


.\t 


2-.10  the  two  I'Ved 


liave  a 


k'ame  of  curlinjf,  prc|)arat 


Is  and  I  and   Xowell 


went  to 


le  oldest  members  of  the  M 


row  with  four  of  tl 
Club,  whose  united 
Sf)methin«:  like   350   years.     We  did 


ry  to  a  match  to-mor 


a^cs. 


I   b 


out  real 


elieve,  are  to  amount  to 
not  play  well,  and 
we  ended  by  winninjr  the  tw 


got  a  bad  beating;,  though 

last  ends,  the  latter  of  which  w 

girls  went  out  walking  with  Colonel  Fletcl 


o 


:is  an  end  of  four.     'Pj 


le 


and  the  other  two  young  men  I  h 


with 


s.  and  at  ten  we  went  to  the  ball,     I 


H-r,     Maxwell 
ave  mentioned  dined 


arge  square  room,  with  beautiful 


t   was  a  nice. 


q»'.-terie,  and  very  jolly.  (;,ven  looked  ,., 
I'kcd  her  dress.  As  you  may  suppose,  sh 
partners." 


music,  excellent 


par. 


very  well,  and  I 
e  got  lots  of 


M^on,l,n\  Frhruarv  rsf. Th 


was  the  opening  of  th 


e  great   event  of  the  day 


at  Ottawa,     'Phe  h 


0  new  theatre  here— the  first 


one 


iox  a  very  comfortable  and  con 
Tuesi/ay,  ^th.~\  great  curii 


ouse  IS  really  very  nice,  and  the  stat 


venienf  one. 


ng-match  was  played  be- 


•  My  lifters. 


232 


^/y  C.4A'AD/,Ar  JOUKXAL. 


CH.  Xl!i 


tween  our  club  and  the  Renfrew  Clnh   i 

sented  by  the  Caledo-uan  C    b      f       '   T  '  '"'^"'  P^^^" 

to  Renfrew,  and   four  :U;:^n^n::^:T^''^^««'^' 

w.nner  could  not  be  announced  t  I    the  Uv  >    "' ^  "'  ''' 

«ver.     The  two   i-reds   -.n,i    ^r    ""  t'^*^  ^uo  frames  w<Te 

went  early  to  ]<enfw  Cm  'r^^-  "^^^^  ^-^  ^xon 
-'cl  Robertson  wrr^;"';-';^^-^''''  ^'^-"«'  ^''etcher, 
.^ame  be;,an  at  ten    u      tl       h  '■'"'"""^^  ■^^^^-     '^  ''« 

'1  l>e  V.  R  c  C   were  "''    ^^  '''  ''''^  ''''  '"^'^^  ''-  '  s. 

telegraph  fhat  v.  Ren";  the^w  rc'ti  '^"  "^"  '"^^'  '^^ 

••ss:iis  r!  ~  "  ~^^^ 

-rried    Ministers    andl^^^l^JJ^'^-t'^"^  V'' 
was  expected  in  the  House  •  J I  ^'^^^  ''"'"^'"" 

^^'""er,  and  they  amnest  cd'Ri  I  7  "'""  '"  '^''''  ^^'^' 

-^■eks  old.  so  I  was  abie  tc7f  '  '''"^''^  *  '^  -^^'  ^ve 
representation  of  the  '  f  L  '""^"^^  ^^  ^'^^  -cond 
^'-"   ''-t  performance  hid  be  "'"'"''"  "'  ^^•'^'■^^'' 

It  i.^  an  operetta,  wriuen  by  Mr  ni'"'^"'":'^  ^"^^^'^^^"'• 
.^•^•11  by  name,  and  composed  b^  ^  ""i;;?;  "'"  ^'"^  "^"'^^ 
'"   Ottawa.     The   mus,      s  v    '  ^"'''  ^''^  "^^^-"'^t 

play  excellent ;  it  is  verv  ■'7"\P''<^tty  and    the  whole 

t'^i".  on  one's'own  s  a;e'     nd":  '"^, ''  '^'"^^  *""  '^  -- 
poser  must  have  been  sati^f  d  wi "m    "  "''^"^  *'>"''  -'"- 

san,.  and  looked  charmim  '"?"'  ^^''-  '^"^^"".  both 

J^-'-'-r.  u-as  quite  ,"";;'■•  "''  ''^  '^''"^^  '-"-'f.  Mr. 
I  asked  the  actors  to  keen  nn  ♦!,   • 


•  Lord  Frederick  IJlackwr 


Jiiirii   o/',t),   p_i _ 


VAL. 


CH.  ywi 


MAY  i«75  IfOAfE  ON  SHORT  LEAVE. 


\  for  a  medal  pre. 
r  "f  wurs  held  to  go 
(.\mie  here ;  so  the 
c  two  jrames  w^re 
l^aKcr   .iiid   Dixon 
,  Coionel  Fletcher, 
lained  here.     'J  he 
ly  for  three  iiouis. 
behindhai;ii.  but 
later  we  heard  by 
-s,  so  we  won  the 
irst  public  match 
le  to  dinner,  and 
he  evening, 
r-party  to-day— 
^  great  division 
t  off  there  after 
the  night. 
»y  *  is  now  five 
at    the    second 
eux/'of  which 
'cly  successful, 
hom  you  know 
s,  the  organist 
I'ld   the  whole 
'■""g  out  a  new 
tlior  and  com- 
>rsand  singers 
•  Angiin.  both 
e  himself,  Mr. 

'tn'ucs  during 
very  gay  and 

iry,  1875. 


233 


preiy.  the  girls'  colored  petticoats  and  high,  white  caps, 
and  i  ..  men's  bright-colored  clothes  being  very  elfective' 
iWdnesday,  April  2ist.~\\xcxit  was  a  severe  frost  last 
night,  so  we  determined  to  have  some  skating  on  the 
Curi.ng^Ruik— rather  late  m  the  year  for  my  first  skate! 
Sun,.'av,  2j///.— Baby  was  christened  by  'the  name  of 
Irederick  Temple. 

Tuesday,  May  /////.—We  leave  for  three  months' 
holiday  m  England,  and  had  quite  a  sad  parting  with 
the  seven  little  ones.  General  Selby  Smyth  met  us 
with  his  A.  D.  C,  at  the  gate,  and  at  the  station  therj 
was  a  crowd  of  people  to  wish  us  adieu  and  don  voyage 
The  day  was  lovely.  At  Montreal  we  were  met  by  (ien- 
eral  O'Grady  Haly,*  who  is  to  be  Administrator  during 
D.'s  absence. 

IVeJnesUay,  12th.— \  torrent  of  rain  falling  all  day 
We  left  Montreal  early,  and  spent  ten  hours  in  the  train, 
reaching  Quebec  about  six  in  the  evening. 

FrUay,  i^t/i—X  very  stormy  night,  slates  blowing 
about,  and  we  go  on  board  to-morrow  ! 

Saturday,  /j/Z/.—Such  a  dreadful  morning:  snow 
rain,  and  cold  wind  of  the  bitterest  description.  I)  sent 
to  beg  the  Mayor  not  to  bring  the  steamers  out  to  ac- 
company ours,  as  it  was  impossible  for  any  ladies  to  go 
'n  them.  The  Lieutenant-Governor  came  for  us.  and 
drove  us  down  to  the  Polynesia,,.  One  steamer  did  go 
with  us  for  a  little  way  with  a  band  on  board  They 
played  "  He  is  a  Jolly  Good  Fellow  "  and  "God  save 
the  Queen,"  and  cheered  us  when  we  parted.  This  was 
about  I  p.  M. 

At  three  we  stopped  suddenly,  and  on  .sending  out 
to  inquire  we  found  we  were  ashore!     We  got  off  soon, 


The  General  Officer  coipHiandin"  !!   Vf   F.r-.    •-  !>  •.•  u  ».•     i, 
Amei'ica. 


1 

'  m 

H 

1 

1  ■ 
(  ' 
|: 

i 

234 


I 


''''  ^^y^^f^A^  yOO^^^y^^, 


but  at  four  we  were  ctuct        •  "'  '"' "" 

;;-^  could  not  get  off  till  TuL^"  ^''"^  ^^^  ^^re  told 
'^"^  »'ght.     We  have  a  vervlT'  "'  '^^'°  ^'^'ock  in 
deck,  with  a  wa.n..:ate;Ttori    "''''  -ttin.-roon.  o 
-oking-roon,  in  which     .ehl: ''^"^  "^"  '" '^  ^'- 

^;Pes  of  getting  off  tHl  V;  '"^t^h^f "  '''''■  ^« 
the  boats  went  out  to  do  some  L  ^'^^"''''''-  One  of 
n^^  get  back  ;  another  was  se      ^  f  ""l  "''"'  ^^  -uld 

^'^h  a  large  proportion  o    an     "  ' '"^  "°^^ '^»'''. 

pose  when  we  do  get  off  t  2  J""'  '''  ^""^-     ^  -p' 

of  ice,  which  looked  very  p  '?;""  ?  ^^^^ted  a  field 
Some  small  pieces  floated  roun'.'"    '^'  '■"^>'  ^^'-''"?- 
h^  '"«"t  we  got  into  quit    a    hir^  '""''  ^"^  ^^^--^ 
'^  «toP-  ^      '  -^  ''"^'^  P^'-t  of  it,  and  had 

round    us-;o,ne,    dirt/b'oH",VT  '''^^'^  "^  '<^«  -'' 
-'^■^e.  and  all  rough  and  rigged       '^   ''"'"'    "''^^- 
deck,  a  ship  stopped  on  its  voyage  ^^"^^^  '-»"-  ^  wet 
"•es  H-e  find  on  this  May  day      4^  .   .  ""^  '^^  '''^^«- 
ba^•»^  to  move  slowly  through  th.  '^'^  ^'^'^^'^^   ^'^ 

"'■'""^'  employment,  that  of  w'!:     "^     ''  ^'^  '''  ''''^'^'■ 
"^"t  ••  we  were  in  cuttL  1    )        "^  "'"  ^''^^^  "  J^K^ger- 
this  field  of  ice     "  meL       '"""^  '^^  "^^^  'trough 
P'--.   i-t  as  a  kn ifT  '.Tt:;,;-^   through   g.eaj 
^onietimes  the  piece  resisted  „.^^   '  wedding-cake. 
^^  hj'd  to  push  it  slowT     fde  Lf'  '  '"'"■"  '^^^^^'  -'"d 

^/'^..Av.  ^oM._i  awoke  ,hT«''''  ''"'^  ^^'  ""• 
^'earing  the  vessel  cruncTun/"       '''   '"  ^^^   '""n, 
^-e  free,  but  in  a  fog      he  s  f'"!'  *'^  "^'  '-^^  ^-'  - 

As  soon  as  we  got  far    ..       T"''°'"  ^'^^^  '-»"  ^av. 
7""  of  the  ice.  and  win,  o"'     ""'^  "^  ^--^  ^he 
o^  a  .reat  deal  of  fog.  and^;:;  .^rnr"'^'''"^'  '"  '^^^ 


I^fl 


I  41 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

AN    UNEVENTFUL    SEASON    1875-76. 

FriJav,   October  22d.-l    sent  you  a  post-card    from 
Londonderry  telling  you  that  we  were  off  on  our  return 
to  Canada  after  our  holiday  at  home.     We  got  on  board 
on  a  very  disagreeable  evening,  but  we  thought  the  wind 
was  lessenuig,  and  that  we  should  probably  have  a  calm 
passage.     We  talked  of  seeing  land  on  Thursday,  and 
made  up  our  minds  to  reach  Quebec  at  the  latest  by 
Tuesday.     Thursday,  however,  found  us  very  near  Ire- 
land, in  a  regular  storm,  which  lasted  two  days  and  two 
nights,  during  which  time  we  scarcely  made  any  progress 
In  twenty-four  hours  we  only  made  forty  knots,  and  the 
Captain  said  he  had  never  been  so  delayed  in  his  life  be- 
fore    W  e  were  obliged  to  remain  below,  and  I  can't  tell 
you  how  dreary  it  was,  rolling  perpetually  for  two  davs 
and  two  nights  in  one's  berth.     Later  on  we  saw  some 
beautiful  icebergs;  and  now  that  I  have  seen  field-ice 
icebergs,  fog,  and  a  storm.  I  do   not  wish  for  any  new 
experience  of  life  at  sea.     We  go!  to  Quebec  this  morn- 
ing, and   found   the  weather  beautiful,  but   very   cold 
One  steamer,  which  left  the  Monday  before  us  arrived 
yesterday  with  her  bulwarks  washed  away,  and  having 
lost  three  boats.    Our  Prussian  received  no  damage  •  she 
IS  such  a  good  sri-boat.  ' 

The    General,    Lieutenaif     overnor    ,Ar     ^..^me    to 
meet  us,  and  our  landing  m  ..ns  lovely  place  was  very 


236 


^^CAN^-U^rjon^j,^^^ 


CK.  XIV 

pretty.     It  is  so  ca;    ,,„,      . 

d-.^  fee,  «,  exhilfr^.i,?;     y^'lZ'^  "'  '""''"'"  -" 

'he  hotd  ,.„,     They  ca^    ,     i^"""""*'  """  -e  at 
house.  ^  '■"""'  '°  lui'^h,  and  to  see  their 

Thurscia     2StIi      T  o 
t'eton  c-.I  ,r;n  camT ^1";'?'?'  '"'  '  '^'^'^-    '^^e  IJt- 

--•     -^-'-V  expecte  °t  n;r'th':'K  """  /'"  '^^^'^  ^'^ 
^  crown  and  train,  and  stilTth     ^  ^'"^^  «^  <^'-"ada  "  in 

^"-  '-  wiil  appear'in  fun  dress         ''^^  '''^  ^'^"^  ^"'"- 

^een  begun.    It  is  to  serve  the  nurn'  'T''"''''''  ^^' 
as  uell.  '^^  ^^^  purpose  of  a  supper-room 

Saturdav.  i^th i-p  _ 

to  give  a  fancy  ball,  and  TrrT"";^'^  I'"'^"  '"  '""^  ^^^^-" 
talk.  '  ^"^^  •'^'^^-ady  deep  in  niiUinery- 

Thursday,  i8th.~\\^  skit^rl   f 
year,  on  the  Rideau,  where  we  h. d      '"  ^'■''  "''"'  ^^'^ 
We  had  a  jirreat  din,,     !  '"^^^^  ^  P'^ce. 

u  a  ^reat  dinner  to-n  e  it  for  th«  ^     . 

Supreme  Court  (sixty-tw.      nest  J  .      '^^^^^'^  «f  ^he 

shaped  table  spread  in  tie  b.  ,  !    "  ""f  ''"'  ^  ^^--^^  T- 
.      Monday,  Decc.er  m^^^ZT,  ''''  '^• 
'ce  .imply  perfect.     We  hav     I^      ''  '"'^  '^^  ^''^'''""^ 
t«  teach  us  to  flood  it  proper,v   n    T  '"u'"  ^'■°'"  '^^"^••«-' 
structions  is  excellent.   ^^'      "^  '^'  ^^«"'t  of  h,s  in- 
Thursdav  nth      Tt,„ 

!;;-y.o..di«ttr?:or;re"  '"'^'-'- 
:;;;;;;;;|_;M»■ettydol,,dres.,edi,Mhesl^  ,;    /,'^^™- 


^'n 


DEC.  1875 


SATA  TING. 


m 


gown,  for  Victoria.     She  was  delighted,  and  carried  it 
about  all  the  evening. 

Saturday,  iith.—\St  asked  Miss  Kingsford,  Miss  Pat- 
rick, and  some  of  the  other  good  skaters  to  come  to-day 
that  we  might  practice  our  figures.  This  was  a  real' 
true  skat.ng-party,  with  no  temptations  to  toboggan  or 
dance,  and  it  was  very  pleasant.  We  worked  away  at 
roses,  double  roses,  thistles,  lil.es,  snails,  etc.,  and  then 
we  came  in,  had  some  tea,  and  talked  about  -the  fancy 
ball. 

Monday,  ?oM.— On  Saturday  we  had  the  same  people 
as  last  week,  hut  as  the  thermometer  was  about  20^  be- 
low zero,  skating  was  a  doubtful  pleasure.  Sunday  was 
still  colder,  and  to-day  the  weather  is  no  milder. 

Tiu'sdiv,  2ist.~.lh\xing  the  afternoon  a  sudden  and 
comfortabi  change  in  the  weather.  They  say  there  was 
a  jump  of  ^  in  the  twelve  hours;  and  certainly  it  be- 
came very  wa.in.  and  a  complete  thaw  set  in  after  a  very 
"cold  snap"  in.i  jd. 

Friday,  241  ■.—  i'he  ';now  is  quite  off  the  tobo;:.traning- 
slide,  and  the  Skatin;.;  ik  is  spoiled  for  the  present ;  but 
it  has  begun  to  freeze  .igain.  I  was  very  busy  all' day 
with  Mrs.  Hall,  arranging  the  Christmas-tree.  At  five 
o'clock  Gwen  and  Russell*  and  Fred  Ward  arrived. 
I'hey  met  at  Prescott,  Cwen  looks  extremely  well. 
During  the  severe  frost  in  Montreal  her  h-  t-water  pipes 
burst,  and  she  was  nearly  frozen. 

Saturday,  ^f///.— A  wet  Christmas  Day  in  Canada  !  We 
went  to  (hurch  under  umbrellas!  However,  it  cleared 
up  afterwards,  but  was  at  '  o  time  a  nice  day.  At  five 
o'clock  the  Littleton  children  came,  and  after  tea  the 
tree  in  the  ball-room  was  lighted  up,  and  the  shrieking 
"  brats  "  were  admitted  to  it.     The  tree  was  very  suc- 


*  My  sister  and  l.rothcr-in-l.iw.  Mr.  ami  Mrs.  Ru     r,  .Stephenson. 


■  If 


h  \ 


mm 


238 


^^  ^^A'^z;/^AV06./...^,,. 


^««s^ul,  and  really  looked  v 

J-^t  in  front  of  th'e  Tl  ro    .    7  '"^*''>'-     ^^  -as  placed 
-^''^•Pe  were  concealed  by      .       ?'""■'"  ^^^^'entricities  of 
^"d  g'ass  balls  and  i/?     "' ''^ '"'''">-^'oIored  cr.  ! 
f"d  -surro.ndedr      e  r  ''T'''  '"'^^  --H  p." ^n  ^ 

^^n.  bounded  b, ;  XX  ;:,;-^- --.  t.:x 

p".  presented  by  His  E.  to  d  '  ''""  ^""'-  '"bol 

-'»-''>■  one  for  n,e.     ^Vhc-n't  "  ll     7'"'  ^""'^^^-^ne  very 
'esu  sided  .e  be,an  to     .    ^     "  "^'""^"^  '^^  ^  ^^ 

"'^';  ^."-r  presents  '''"'"^'"  ^^P^ared  well  pleallj 

'/  I'diiesdav^  2nf/i 7-1 

;an.icipa,e  great  a™  s      J,  r,":'^"  '-  '")■  -p. 

mere  amateur  stae-e     Tl,^  '^  ^"'te  bevond  tli-.f   „f 

''  back,.™,,,,,,  of  ^:,  '^7-=  ■•"■"  ^'--ee.  and  a  ca  .^ 


0-       III 


Jan.  1876  MARRIED    VS.   BACHELORS. 

239 

Side  by  minor  fairies  of  the  female  sex,  while  two  male 
fairies  sit  in  cars  underneath.  This  is  the  last  scene  of 
the  play  and  while  this  gorjreous  sight  is  in  the  back- 
ground the  active  performers  in  the  piece  are  grouped  in 
the  front.  We  had  an  appreciative  audience,  filling  the 
room.  '  ** 

Tuesday,  iith.-K  very  important  curling-match  took 
place  in  our  rink,  between  the  four  "  Fredericks  -  of  the 
\.ceregaClub  and  the  four  "Jameses"  of  the  Ottawa 
Club.  Alas!  the  Jameses  won  by  one.  There  were  to- 
bogganing and  skating  after  lunch.  A  lovely  div- 
about  zero.  ^      "■ -^ 

^Vednesday,  /^//..-The  married  men  of  the  Curling 
C.ub  had  a  match  against  the  single  ones.  The  best 
bachelor  was  absent,  and  "  little  Campbell  "  (who  is  very 
short-sighted,  and  never  plays)  took  his  place.  He  was 
a  great  element  of  amusement ;  for,  in  the  first  place,  he 
made  by  accident  two  most  beautiful  shots,  then  he  fell 
in  front  of  a  stone  while  sweeping,  etc.  The  bachelors 
were  beaten  by  :8  to  ..  There  was  much  tobogganing 
m  the  afternoon,  and  a  frightful  upset,  Fred  and  Colonel 
Littleton  coming  in  with  their  noses  scraped  by  the  icy 
snow  upon  which  they  fell. 

Thursday,  /jM.-The  bachelors  determined  to  try 
and  regain  their  laurels  to-day,  and  marched  in  proces- 
sion to  the  Rink.  They  were  dressed  in  white  bLiket- 
coa  s,  wore  white  kid  gloves,  and  orange-flowers  in  their 
but  on-holes.     Their   fate  was,   however,  as  sad  as  yes- 

Monday,  lyth.-W^^  had  a  large  children's  y.xXy  in  the 
evening.     When  the  fifty-five  children  ai.a  their  mam 
mas  had  arrived  and  seated  them.selves,  "  Liule  Nobody  " 
began,    and   went   most   successfully  till   near  the  end 
when  in  the  middle  of  the  last  beautiful  fairy  transfor* 
mation  scene  there  was  a  fire,  which  might  have  been 


F 


f* 


240 


^fy  CAXAD/AN  JOURXAL. 


CII.  XIV 

'"-e  were  people  ru^lS;' ',':':;  :7r'  '-"-»•. 
Kreat  scrimmaire  aoim,  „„  }      nowinR,  and  a 

Lablo  queen  of  .  k      iri,.  '"^  "'""'  "'^  ""P^'-^- 

rose-ligh,  over  .he  scene    hnj'     ""'T  """'  ""'''■  ^ 

»■•■'»   spoiled,  and  tlu   au'.ho    a„d  Z"        ''"""  '''''"' 
tlieir  hands  a  lilile  carpenter  burned 

wri.;n.on.\,,e;?:r:r?,;r:;r'io',''"-";^'^" 
■^e  a  ver,  pren;^::^,;:' v:  z:::"'  -=  -"-'  ""^  -'" 

r//^,/,,,,  2j///._Spent  a  great  cleil  nf  r 

copied   for  the  sin,n-n.   u    Hri         .J  ^       "^'   ^^o  parts 
of  each  fi,.ure      Vou   ',v  ' '"   ^"'   "'  '''''■^>'  ^"''''^^ 

^iiffia,Ity  'of  arra^,!"  r^"""  ^'"'^  "'"^"•'^'""  -^^  the 

Fred  wL  dcTJhSde Ltr.  Tn'V"^  '"  ''"'^^^- 
of  it.  ^  ""^^ '  ^"'  ^  lielp-aiid  dream 

in.tr«';:::;::';:;;';r  -7  ^"<'«"ied  .„.  ™„r„. 

IH'ople  join      I  r  J  '         r'^'''*'  ^'"^  '"•■»^^'  the  elderly 


MARCH  1876       OPENIAG  OF  PARLIAMEXT. 


241 


Sunday, joth. — The  Comte  Louis  de  Turenne  arrived, 
and  we  took  him  a  snow-shoe  walk. 

Jfom/iiv,  j/s/. — We  all— I),  and  I.  the  Littletons,  the 
Freds,  and  the  Comte  de  Turenne — started  in  a  private 
car  for  Montreal 

IVfi/ncsdiiy,  March  ist. — A  very  stormy,  sncjwy  day, 
extremely  cold,  and  no  admittance  to  the  Kink.  In  the 
evening  there  was  a  fancy  dress  ball  on  the  ice.  Ihe 
Count,  the  Littletons,  and  those  who  had  not  seen  this 
before,  were  delighted  with  the  sight.  It  was  bitterly 
cold,  and  1  wai  glad  to  skate  a  little  in  a  domino.  I 
danced  a  set  of  lancers  and  some  other  things  with  I). 

Thursday,  2d. — Some  good  skating  in  the  morning, 
then  a  grand  lunch  at  Mr.  Ryan's,  which  our  three 
Fredericks  had  to  leave  early,  as  they  were  going  to 
join  the  fourth  Frederick  in  playing  against  four  Jameses. 
We  meant  to  go  and  see  the  game,  but  when  we  arrived 
at  the  door  of  the  Rink  we  met  our  party  coming  out, 
victorious  and  radiant. 

Saturday.,  4th. — Wo    left  Montreal    by   the   morning 

trani,  taking  with  us  the  Comte  de  Turenne  and  Cawen.* 

Tuesday,  jth. — The  Marcjuis  and  Marquise  de  Hassano 

arrived  t'^'s    'ternoon,  just  as  we  were  fmishing  a  labori- 

ous  rehearsal  of  part  of  •'  School." 

IVcdnt'sday,  SUh.—\  cold,  windy  day;  however,  we 
went  out  and  skated.  The  Comte  de  Furenne  is  work- 
ing hard  at  the  outside  edge.  The  Cabinet  dinner  took 
place  to-night,  and  the  new  Ministers  came  for  the  first 
time,  in  tiieir  uniforms.  The  dinner  was  in  the  ball- 
room, and  we  had  a  band  to  play  during  the  evening. 

Thursday,  gth. — In  the  morning  wc  had  some  skating 
and  curhng;  the  day  was  beautiful  anil  mild.  After 
lunch  we  went  to  the  opening  of  Parliament. 


My  brother,  Colonel  Gaweu  R.  Ilamihon, 


iff- 


i !  )i 


242 


MY  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL, 


CH.  XIV 

I>rawi„,.-room  afterwards.       "  ,c  '^      ,     '""'"^'  ""'  ^'" 
at  cne  before,  a.id  I  must  hnv  ,  '"''">'  I^'"""'''^' 

l)rawin«-roo,n  "''  ""^■''  "^'"^  ^^  ^  ^''"'^e  after  the 

the  nrst  two  acts  o'f  "s  ,1  '•"  f  ^"''"^"  -'  -'--sc.i 
Kimber  and  Miss  Vell.t  -^^'-y  ^"'^cessfully.     Mr. 

and   we  rehea-s.-d   fh«     .  "\'-"^>-'-'«^ht   singers   arrive,!, 
^  lenea.sea   the  sinirniP-  miirlriih...     i 

.r,j;' '■■•"■■•»-«=";;  ;:■:;;,- 

«<r..n  r.    •  "^^'^  '^^P^    telegraphing  from  Ottawi 

<- an  I  brnig  my  toboggan  '  •'  m  uttawa, 

ful  party      This  i«    , '       , '""  •'"''  '""'  "  "'on  success, 
lie  has  hcK    ,  ,   t "    J;  ■'>^"'^"'  ""^  """«■  "i'li  "«.  and 

-.r,;^-'^:. ---:-!;/ ->:;ryn^ 

iiinch  with  U.S.  "      '  ''*=  ''^*^^"  P''«yers  had 


MARCH  1876 


THEA  TRICALS. 


243 


\  e  dressed  for  the  fancy  ball  at  nine-all  onr  house- 
hold in  costumes  of  the  same  pcriod-a.ul  walked  in  pro- 
cession up  the  room.  The  dresses  of  our  guests  were 
beautiful,  and  there  was  great  variety  in  them  The 
sing.ng-dances  and  the  new  supper-room  were  nuul,  ad- 
mired, and  when  people  went  away  at  4  a.  m.  they  seemed 
extremely  i)leased. 

Satuniay,  ..jM.-It  snou  ed  hard-in  fact,  I  have  never 
seen  the  snow  round  us  su  deep.  The  Littletons  have  to 
be  almost  dug  out  every  day,  and  the  road  to  their  house 
IS  on  a  level  with  the  palings. 

Monday,  ^7///,_Tl,e  l-rench  members  of  the  Com- 
mons gave  a  beautiful  ball  in  the  new  Library  at  Ottawa 
to  which  we  went.  The  room,  an  enormous  round  build- 
mj?,  was  very  well  lighted.  1  believe  fifteen  hundred 
people  were  in  it,  and  there  was  no  crush  at  all  W'e  en 
joyed  it  very  much.  Numbers  of  people  wore  their  fancy 
dresses.  ^ 

Wednesday,  2(;th.~'X\y^  Comte  de  Turenne  arrived  for 
tlie  play.  The  actors  dined  early  in  D.'s  room.  Then  I 
went  to  dress  for  Mrs.  Jloneyton,  in  the  "  Happy  Pair  " 
Then  the  "  School  -  arrived,  and  began  to  dress'  in  one 
room,  and  the  men  had  another,  and  the  guests  came 
•rowding  in.  and  got  off  their  things  in  the  school-room 
and  there  were  painting  and  curling  and  excitement  going 
on  everywhere. 

Fred  and  I  began  the  performance  with  "A  Happy 
Pair."  and  had  a  very  warm  audience,  which  was  pleas- 
ant, "School"  is  a  very  difficult  piece  for  amateurs- 
hnt  I  must  say  that  it  was  an  unequivocal  success' 
hvery  part  was  wel!  (!..nc.  and  it  was  (piite  new  here,  s,, 
the  audience  liked  it  immensely.  I  was  reallv  surprised 
when  I  came  into  the  supper-room  to  see  how  hand.some 
"  looked,  and  If  certainly  \s  u  much  needod  addition  to 
the  house,  enabling  us  to  give  supper  to 


.!! 


17 


p|)er  to  a  large  party  at 


I  f 


244 


A/y  CAXADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XIV 

once.     Afterwards  I  went  into  the  drawing-room,  and 
said  good-night  to  all  the  beaming  crowd 

Tuesday,  Apnl  /////.-Such  a  lovely  day  We  nliv 
tennis,  walk,  lunch,  practice  .some  music,  drive  into  Ot 
awa,and  go  to  a  birthday-party  of  the  Littletons,  where 
there  was  to  be  a  magic  lantern.  I  took  si.x  children, 
and  Victoria  enjoyed  her  f.rst  party  immensely,  and  ap 
plaudcd  every  slide.  When  a  somewhat  undra,L  staiue 
oXiot'r  ••''''   '''"  "•'^'^'"''^^   ^hat  "  Hallie   would  pip 

MonJay,  ////.-(J^en.  Miss  Abbot,  and  I  drove  into 

ttawa  u)  the  morning,  and  after  lunch  walked  to  the 

nver  Rideau  to  see  the  ice  coming  down.     We  stood  for 

some  tune  watching  great  blocks  go  over  the  Falls,  and 

:     :7,  /"'""'"-:  ^  "^^i^^-  '-^  'i"le  way  off    but 

tlK  I. alls,  that  we  returned  to  our  original  place  and 
wlicn  we  got  there  found  that  a  new  bridge  imn "di^te  y 
over  then,,  upon  which  we  had  been  standing  a  fe  vS 

\vhtre  we  could  have  a  good  view  of  the  river  md  suv 

such  a  .W.,,.  and  heard  such  a  ....:;^  i/T  L     : 

here  was  great  excitement  on  the  spot-men  and  I Zes 

l::::^trs.r:::i^"^^-^^'"--^^^''-ouij:: 

yW</v,  A/ay  fm.-Thc  waters  of  the  Ottawa  ire 
su  feet  higher  than  they  have  been  for  vears.and  t  '  re 
much  more  ice  to  come  down;  there  are  (iood.s  everywhere 

rues.A,y,  MM.-The  weather  deserves  to  be  r  ro   led' 

or  ,t  rca  ly  was  fine,  bright  and  sunnv.  aiui  un   k      nv' 

Unj^  .^  have  had  before  this  month,  -iv  few  :ot  2 

we  able  to  appear,  but  they  are  not  .trong  enough 

cither  to  buzz  or  to  bite.  '""ikH 

/V/«^.v%.  >„.  /,/.__,03»  in  the  shade.     I  was  "it 

home,"  and  received  mv  visitors  i,,  ., „..i..„  ,    ^%  '^^ 

r,aiucij  ffom  four 


June  1876 


RIVER  PARTY. 


ing-room,  and 


245 


to  six,  when  it  was  cooler  and  very  pleasant.  They 
looked  at  a  jrame  of  tennis,  and  seemed  to  enjoy  the 
garden. 

\Vednf,day,  rfA.-D.   and   I,   Nelly,  the   Smyths,  and 
Littletons,  h-H    by   a  steamer  at  seven  o'clock   in   the 
morning,  and  landed   at  Buckingham   at  eight      There 
we  saw  a  lovely  waterfall.     The  river  Le  I.ievre  a  large 
tributary  of  the  Ottawa,  rushes  at  this  place  through  a 
ry  narrow  passage,  and   after  falling  a  few   feet  the 
incline  becomes  more  gradual,  but  the  water  tumbles 
over  r(,cks  and  stones,  and  looks  like  a  very  steep  rapid 
unlike  anything  I  have  ever  seen  before,  and  verv  beau- 
tiful.    This  sight   was   only  r„  passant.     Nelly  was  de- 
lighted, and  kept  up  a  fire  of  joyful  exclamations,  which 
helped  us  to  like  getting  up  so  early. 

After  driving  through  the  village  of  Buckingham 
which  was  gayly  decorated  with  flags  and  arches,  we  got 
out  at  a  wharf,  and  found  a  small  steam-launch  ready  to 
take  us  up  the  river.  We  had  twenty-five  miles  to  go, 
and  were  to  be  four  hours  doing  it.  There  were  some 
swift  rapids  in  the  river,  and  when  we  came  to  the  worst 
ones  we  were  told  that  the  steamer  was  too  heavily 
laden,  and  that  some  of  us  must  get  out.  We  had  a  good 
deal  of  trouble  landing  the  gentlemen,  I),  only  remaininj- 
with  us. 

The  small  engine  puffed  away,  but  we  made  no  prog- 
ress, and  we  got  very  frightened.  The  bell-rope  whi(  h 
the  pilot  used  for  giving  his  orders  had  been  burned 
through,  a  lace  curtain  havirg  caught  fire  early  in  the 
day,  and  when  he  called  out  his  orders  the  stoker  did 
not  always  seem  to  hear.  I),  tried  to  reassure  us.  but 
when  we  looked  out  and  found  that  we  remained  exactly 
HI  the  same  place-off  a  great  rock_we  ladies  were  in 

an  aironv  of  terror      'I'lii.M  tl.o  K,^,»  1 ._  t . 

.   "      -  •••-tit  utj^ai!  to  turn  round, 

and  the  gentlemen  on  shore  were  frightened  too  when 


11 


I.    « 


246 


MV  CAXAD/AAT  JOURXAL. 


M 


i.ir 


CH.  XIV 

they  saw  this  manoeuvre      'r'h«,r 

Nelly  and  I  were  both  in  tear     ami  T     i  ^       '  """" 
now  to  think  of  Xdly-     fa"    'th     t       "     "•"^'  '"'^^^"^ 

drownefi-     u  "'"    ^''^   •'^"   '^"'''•''1  t«^  be 

irr  "'^^^'-"^•'-"'■.  ^ve  turned  safely,  and  did  irc-t  to 

the  share  again,  a,>d  there  we  landed  .0  thu  t  .  .^ 

-■.  a„„  „  ,„.„r  ,0  see  .ho  I-.,,,  ,he  object  .t Z  e.'i^,,! 

The  walk  was  rougl,,  a.ul  we  had  some  climh.n.  a,„l 
»ome  steep  places  ,„  g„  down,  a,ul  there  we     i^^jf 

abou    half-way  down  the  Fall,  and  could  neithe    see    he 
X^'f.  "-  the   height  of  it.  but  only  the  thiek  "s   . 
't.     A  river  with  a  rapid  stream  passes  through  a  ve  y 
narrow  passage  here,  and    issues  like  a  wall  of  wa    r 
from  between  the  rocks.     I   UM   as  if  a  puff  of    w i  ' 
"«•«  t  topple  it  down  over  me.     We  went    ow      a 
ward,  and  saw  more  of  it;   it  is  very  hi^^^^^^^^^^ 

„  I-  ji. —  u^  found  that  everyUimg 


n 


JUNE  1876 


QUEBEC. 


247 


had  disappeared  from  our  basket.  Lucky  for  us  that 
driiiks  had  been  preferred  to  silver  spoons!  Xclly  and 
I  rather  dreaded  the  descent  of  our  friend  the  rapid, 
but  we  got  down  safely  in  three  hours. 

We  found  a  large  bonfire  burning  at  Buckingham, 
and  a  crowd  of  people.  There  we  got  into  the  carriages,' 
and  prospered  till  we  came  to  a  steep  hill  with  a  preci- 
pice on  one  side,  in  the  middle  of  which  our  horses 
jibbed,  and  when  they  got  us  well  to  the  edge  of  the 
"precipice,"  Nelly  and  I  escaped  through  the  window 
(a  large  one).  The  horses  were  led  down  the  hill,  and 
D.  reproached  us  for  leaving  him  alone  in  his  peril. 

It  was  rather  cold  all  day  on  the  water,  but  warm 
when  we  landed.  We  got  back  about  eleven,  very  tired  • 
but,  in  spite  of  all  our  troubles,  we  were  glad  to  have 
seen  those  splendid  falls. 

When  we  undertook  the  expedition  (invited  by  the 
owner  of  the  steamer)  we  did  not  think  it  would  take  so 
long,  and,  m  fact,  knew  little  about  it.  The  steamer 
has  only  been  on  that  run  for  a  few  weeks,  and  scarcely 
anyone  has  seen  thl^  Fall ;  but  I  think  it  is  a  most  mag- 
n.hcent  sight.  A  reporter  was  present,  and  it  depends 
I'PO"  what  he  thought  of  the  rapids  whether  other  peo- 
ple are  encouraged  to  go  or  not.  As  he  was  not  in  the 
boat,  and  had  no  friend  to  be  alarmed  about  on  board 
his  view  will  probably  be  cheerful. 

Monday,  /^M.-Packing  day!  Very  hot,  and  every 
one  meltmg  and  busy.  Boxes  and  bags  yawning  all 
over  the  house.     A  holi.lay  for  the  children 

Thursday,  rs^A.-Wc  started  earlv  m  the  morning 
bv  tram  to  Prescott,  there  got  into'  the  steamer,  and 
had  a  pleasant  voyage  to  Montreal,  where  we  changed 
from  one  steamer  to  another,  and  came  on  to  Quebec. 

Quebec:  Friday,  T6th.—\rn^ vd  earlv.  and  larujed  at 
eight;  tiie  Lieutenant-Governor  and  a' guard  of  honor 


!  i 


i 


f  fi 


248 


^/y  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


!    r 


CH.  XIV 

,    „  r   '  '"'■>'  ^"''  ""'I  »o  "W  not  go  „u,  (ill 

1    e'"i':f  d      Tt  '  """  '"''=<"  °^-  the  scene 
tlie  late  l.re_desolat,on  over  a  large  space. 

-WW^.,  /7,/,_n.e  „.e„t  to  see  the  temporarv  ic 
co.nmo.la.,o„  arranged  for  the  snfferers:  eharh  el', a  e' 
akcn  ,„  some,  and  drill-.sheds  and  barracks  ho    ",  ler, 
1  oor  people  who  have  lost  their  all  bore  the°r  m^ Irt 
unes   wonderful,,,    I    thonght.     Very  ho  dT^        „' 

he  evenmg  we  wen,  ,0  see  the  "  I!„sv  Ilees  '•  perform 
1  l«y  are  the  officers  and  soldiers  of  the  Hnatter  H 

represen.^^^^^^^ 

J/,W,n.    /j,//,._Three   strangers  dmed  with   us-   a 
rre^  man,  an  Austrian,  and  an   Englishtnan.     D    e„- 

Si  c '  7i:.^i ::::  ^-^'i  ^""'=' -^  -^  '^--p- 

■he  afternoon  '    """  '""  """"^  o'"  «=""»  i" 

came  on,  which  lasted  all  day  ™uer  showers 

nrost  beautifu,;: ,:;;':::  tt-  ■'"v™"'  "••" 

of  it  Innt^.J  1-u  ^^^''  '^"'"  the  stage,  at  the  far  end 
ot  't,  looked  l.ke  a  garden,  with  real  flower-beds  in  th. 
foreground,  and  a  painted  shrubbery  behind  ttt       ''' 

present.  K^"ery.     About  200  gentlemen  were 

D.  and  his  speech  were  immensely  wel!  received,  and 


Iren  waitin;? 
t  go  out  till 
he  scene  of 

nporary  ac- 
arities  have 
hold  others, 
eir  misfort- 
11  clay.  In 
»  "  perform, 
'attery,  and 
'trels,  sing- 

^'ith   us :    a 
n.     D.  en- 
European 
I  friends  in 

parade  on 
t'ith  the  n 
ne  medals 
was  beau- 
r-showers 

ve  a  great 
room  was 
le  far  end 
ds  in  the 
sm. 

hich  the 
-General 
"wn  the 
len  were 

ved,  and 


JUNE  1876  LORD  DUFFERLVS  SPEEUf. 


249 


he  spoke  very  well.     He  began  by  saying,  «'  I  can   not 
help  remembering  under  what  various  conditions,  in  how 
many  vital  emergencies,  at  what  supreme  epochs  in  its 
history,  durmg  the  last  300  years,  my  illustrious  prede- 
cessors must  have  had  occasion  to  harangue  the  citizens 
of  Quebec.     In  a  thousand  vicissitudes  of  fortune,  in 
perpetual  alternations  of  triumph  and   despondency— 
when  hordes  of  savages  were  lurking  round  your  pali- 
sades;  when  famine  had  prostrated  vour  strength,  and 
the  unaccustomed   rigors-  of  an  Arctic  winter  had   be- 
numbed your  faculties;  when  novel  forms  of  pestilence 
devastated  your  homes,  crowning  your  clergv  and  your 
sisterhoods  with  the  aureole  of  martyrdom;'  when  for- 
eign leaguers  as.saulted  your  independence,  and  hostile 
cannon  threatened  your  battlements— Viceroy  after  Vice- 
roy has  appealed  to  your  patience,  your  fortitude,  your 
charity,  your  patriotism;  and  never  once,   whether  in 
good  fortune  or  ill  fortune,  as  your  history  tells  us,  has 
the  appeal  been  made  in  vain."    At  the  end  he  proposed 
the  toast  of  "  Prosperity  to  Quebec." 

Friday,  2jy.— We  visited  the  SiUery  Convent,  and 
then  walked  into  a  place  belonging  to  Colonel  Rhodes. 
He  has  underground  gardens,  which  supply  flowers, 
mushrooms,  winter  salads,  etc.  The  Colonel,  who  enter- 
tained us  most  hospitably,  has  made  quite  a  name  for 
himself  as  a  practical  gardener  here.  The  view  from 
the  house  is  lovely. 

On  our  return  home  we  had  a  long  visit  from  the 
Bassanos,  who  were  delighted  with  our  platform.  After 
dinner  the  soldiers  had  some  very  good  theatricals. 

Sii/un/av,  24t/i.~\).  went  down  to  the  steamer  to  say 
a  few  words  to  the  Canadian  rifle-team,  now  starting  for 
Wimbledon. 

I  was  "at  home,"  and  the  lovely  morning  turned  into 
a  very  bad  afternoon.     Thunder  and  showers  and  wmd 


ii  I   !  tr  I 


'\:     i 

1     i? 

aii       ' 

i           'i 

250  AfV  CAA'ABfAJV  JOURNAr. 

came  on,  and  though  I  had  many  visitor,   th 
uncomfortable.     Some  fearer!  ,    y,    '"^"'^''''  ^^ey  were  all 
"ked  thunder,  and    o'L"!  7;  '"'^  ^i"?^^'  ^^^  •^'- 
horses;  and  1  sincerely  sympfi^^^^  ^^'^^ten  their 

from  ,t  saw  the  procession  of  Jean  13a  ,s  1  ";  *  '"^ 
the  town  on  the  way  to  the  (■  n  r  h  T  ''"V  ""^'^ 
festival  at  Quebec.  ^ '"'  '"  ^^^  g'-^at 

\Ve  .spent  two  hours  at  the  rrsnlin.  r 

'"«•  P--es   to   the  P.pd-te^he":        "m  7''"'  '"  ^'" 
them,   and    comment    ,'■''•    ^^-  t^'-^^Je  a  speech  to 

-hi^^hvoun,^:     '.2;r,  r  ^"^'-^^"-^f'-^   -y  in 
-anci,;,the'case::f^:N:;;^^':^,;;;:-''--^inent.in- 

h^^  her  handkerchief  to   tl^c        '     /"  '°"''""^  "•^^- 
ciown  the  river.  ''''■'"  ^'^''  ^^^^''^1  miles 

In  the  evening  we  .aT(»'i('f.H  o  ^ 
Jean  JJap.is.e  socletv       XTl^"""''^''  «iven  by  ,h= 

took  four  Children  iXtCuZ'  "'="""'•  ""^ 
ceive  ,„ap,e  s„„„r  thro,,;,,  .rC/''^"  "«^.  -^  <"  «■ 

"■e  e„i„,,d  .aili„/ea,:r    ,  Z'  b™   if'f  =  """  -""• 
'■refrory,  ,|,e  offiHal  wl,„  fur„i.  e,  2  "'"■     '^''■■ 

"'<=  "itli  a  kcv  and  „ i,h  ,  I  !  ,    "  '""'''•  P^sented 

'or  ™y  special  ..en';;,!  tl       I'  ^  IH;;;"^^  '-^on^h. 


Jfv  IS76    rfsm.^G  ON  THE  yo^A-  avfej, 

^'y^A.  251 

We  went  „p  to  ,t,  however-an  hour's  drive  inrl  fh 
hours  on    horseback-Archie   bein.   fL       f  ''^ 

really  enjoyed  th.s.  Our  servant  ^  .  "  ,^  ""'  ^''^^ 
look  very  nice,  and  afte     lunrh  '"''^'  "^'^  ''"'^ 

river;  b.^t  the  "news  waft  True^^t  1.7"  t"'  ''  "^'  '^^ 
too  "heavy."  We  returned  '  '"~''^'  ,"''^^'"  ^^'^^  much 
qu.toes.     Let  me  slv     t  n  ^  '"  ^''"ncr-and  mos- 

ever  present.  a::;ra::^,:;e -2,:::;:,;'^^-^'™- - 

a.^  f     4  ^   ^""^'  ^"^1  'It  eiffht  o'clock  J) 

and  P red  returned      I)    h  wi  ■      -       *>'"•"  ciock  i). 

jrril^P  fh«  ^  '-''"^'''^   "^e  -'ialmon  and  a 

grilse,  the  averap:e  weurht   of  th«     -1  ,    • 

tu„  1  vvci^uL   01   ine  salmon   be  nsr  21  li.^ 

the  largest  one  28  lbs      Frerl  ha.i «  ■  ^    **      ''•• 

onH  .,  I  had  one  salmon  of  26  lbs 

and  a  larg-e  trout  of  s  Ihc      u-        t  .  ' 

hooked  and  flu  J- ^  .         '^'"'""  ^^^^  been  foul- 

nooKed,  and  took  him  two  hours  to  kill 

not  brit  fish~^^'  '"  "'"^'  ''^^^^'"'  -'^  ^here  can 

the  l,mK  rule  rTI       •        ^  ™™'"K.  "nd  in  spite  of 
•ormenK  and  FreH       t"  '?  '"  "•"•  "■"■"  "'"- 

R".  one,  an  i  Fred  fie   Th   ?    '"  ''"*'     "'  '"'»  """= 
and  ail  ■„,.     „  er  .,  il„      u'"^=''  "'  "''  "»  '^  ">»- 

suggested  thrisM"''  "'''*  '^'''  ^"'^^  ^'-»«iJy.  he 
fc.s>-sLeu  mat  1  should  trv  mv  liirlr     \\r     t     .    ,  ,. 

after  breakfast,  and  thri  ?.,  ^'^ri  i       '     •' ""'^'^ 

brought  us  to  nnr  n^  r'l.r  ^"^^'^g  aou    waikmg 

«      "s  to  our  pool.     We  immediately  set  to  work. 


'^^.  h 


MAY  i87S  HOME  ON  SHORT  LEA  VE. 


233 


pretty,  the  girls'  colored  petticoat?  and  high,  white  caps 
and  the  men's  bright-colored  clothes  being  very  effective' 

Wednesday,  April  -?/j/.—There  "was  a  Severe  frost  last 
■night,  so  we  determined,  to  have  some  skating  on  the 
Curl|ng  Rink~rather  late  in  the  year  for  my  first  skate! 

Sundqy,  ^jM.—Baby  was  christened  by  the  name  of 
Frederick  Temple. 

^  Tuesday,  ^ay  //M.-We  leave  for  three  months' 
holiday  in#ngland,  ^nd  had  quite  a  sad  parting  with 
the  seyert  little  ones.'  General  Selby  Smyth  met  us 
M^ith  .his  A.  D.  C,  at  the  gate,  and  at  the  station  there 
was.  a  crowd  of  people  to  wish  us  adieu  a^nd  bon  voyage 
The  day  was  lovely.  At  Montreal  we  were  met  by  Gen- 
eral O'Grady  Haly,*  who  is  to  be  Administrator  during 
D.'s  absence.       * 

Wednesday,  lith.^K  torrent  of  rain  falling  all  day 
We  left  Montreal  early,  and  spent  ten  hours  in  the  train, 
reaching  Quebec  about  six  in  the  evening. 

Friday,  14th.— K  very  stormy  night,  slates  blowing 
about,  and  we  go  oh  board  to-morrow  f 

Saturday,  ,st^..-S,nch  a  dreadful  morning:  snow 
rain,  and  cold  wind  of  the  bitterest  description.  D  sent 
to  beg  the  Mayor  not  to  bring  the  steamers  out  to  ac-' 
company  ours,  as  it  Was  impossible  for  any  ladies  to  ga 
in  them.  The  Lieutenant-Governor  came  for  us,  and 
drove  us  down  to  the  Polynesian.  One  steamer  did  ^o 
With  us  for  a  little  way  with  a  band  on  board  They 
played  -  He  is  a  Jolly  Good  Fellow  "  and  ""  God  save 
the  Queen,"  and  cheered  us  when  we.panidr~THi^-was 
about  1  p.  M.  «,^ 

At  three  we  stopped  sudc_-.,^,  _. 
to  inquire  we  found  we  were' ashoVeV   We  got  off  soon, 


*  1  he  (i«ne«U  Officer  commanidihg  H.  Nf.  forces  in  British  North 
America  '^ 


fil 


in 


I' 

In..  • 


234 


cA.  xm 


the  night.  We  have  a  vei-v  1  '  T  '  *^  ^^°  ^'^'ocJc  in 
d-fc.  with  a  warm.:ater  ttov°  "'"^  -^^ing-room  on 
-n#ing.room,  in  whi  h  te  h,  "e    '^"'  "^^^  ^°  "  ^^e 

f  opes  of  getting  off  tilVT  m    at'^f "  ^^"^^-     ^^i' 
,       the  boats  went  outV  do  soniethin    '''^^"'^'''-     One  of' 
.^         not  get  back  ;  anothl  was  s^n    7  °'  '''^'''  ^"^  co.,ld 
-«>  a  large  proponK    o"  f " '"' ^'^^  "°- ^o^h. 
.       pose  when  we  do  get  off  1  Tj'^'^'  '''  ^^^ne.     I  sup- 

of  ice.  which  looked  very  tluyT  Tk'  "^'^^^  ^  ^^'^ 
Some  small  pfeces  floated  rou'd'"  ""^^y  evening, 

f'e,  night  we  got  into  quite  a  thiol'  "''''''  ^"^  ^""4 
■     to  stop.  ,  ^"'f^  a  th.ck  part  of.  it,  and  had 

.,      -unTt^lT^mTdU'T  "V"^^  P'--  of  ic^  all 

;  ^ite,  and  all  rough'i:^   'a^ed'^A?   '"^^^'    -'^- 

deck,  a  ship  stopped  on  its  vovL       ^^  '''^""  ""'  ^  ^^^ 

"res  we  find  on  this  May  day   Tr    1  ''^  ^^^  P'^^^" 

began  to  move  slowly  through  th.     "       ""^  o'^ock^ 

^atmg  employment"  that  of  w..  u     '"'■     ^'  ^^«  ^  f^C 
"«^t  "  we  were  in  cnftL     ""f  "'^'"S^^^e  great  "  Juggeri 

^his  fidd  of  ice     Some' mef  '"''"^  '^^  ^^^  ''^ -ugh  . 

sometimes  the  piece  resisted  u.'^''   *^^clding-cake, 
^«  had  to  push  it  slow7;tfde  Lr  ''''""  ''^^^^^'-"d 

^^«..«5y,,  .oM_j  awoke  ahnT  7'  '""'^  ^^^  on.v 
'rearing  the  vessel  crunch^'         "   ''^'^   '"  ^^^^  '"orn. 
^«re  free,  but  in  a  fog    thTst^"?  '''  "^'  ^^  '-  «5        ^ 

As  soon  as  we  j.ot  far     ''"'"■''°'-"  "lew  all  day       \ 

-orner  of  theiccand  wlntro^     '°"''  "^  turned  , he 


"Jf 


If' 


^  cii.  xiri 

fie  we  were  told 
two  o'clock  in 

5itting-room  on 
"ext  to  it  the 

eals  privately. 

es  stuck.     No/ 
'ater.     One  of 
ler,  and  could 
irtd  now  both, 
?one.     I  sup- 
hem. 

ghted  a  field 

osy  evening-. 

,  and  during 

't»  and  had 

es  of  ice  all 
nps,    others 
2r  all,  a  wet 
-  the  pleas- 
o'clock^«e 
fas  a  fafci- 

f'/ugger: 
ly  through 
^S^   great 
d'ng-cake, 
egree,  and 

I  get  on.v 
he   mori^, 
It  ten  w<^ 

II  day.       \ 
irned  the 
:,  in  spitgl. 


/ 


.CHAPTER  XIV.  • 

AN    UNEVENTFUL    SEASON    1875-76. 

■       Friday,  October  2 2d. -I    sent  you  a  post-card   from 
Londonderry  telling  you  that  we  were  off  on  our  return 
to  Canada  after  our  holiday  at  home.     We  got  on  board  ^ 
on  a  very  disagreeable  evening,  but  we  thought  the  wind  M 
was  lessenmg,  and  that  we  should  probamyshave  a  calm  ^ 
passage.     We  talked  of  seeing  land  on  Thursday,  and 
made  up  our  minds  to  reach  Quebec  at  the  latest  by 
Tuesday.     Thursday,  however,  found  us  very  "near  Ire- 
land, m  a  regular  storm,  which  lasted  two  days  and  two      '' 
nights,  durmg  which  time  we  scarcely  made  any  progress. 
In  twenty-four  hours, we  only  made  forty  knots,  and  the 
Captam  said  he  had  never  been  so  delayed  in  his  life  be- 
fore.    We  were  obliged  to  remain  below,  and  I  can't  tell 
you  how  dreary  it  was,  rolling  perpetually  for  two  days 
and  two  mghts  in  one'.s  berth.     Later  on  we  saw  some 
beautiful  icebergs;  and  now  that  I  have  seen  field-ice. 
•cebergs,  fog,  and  a  storm,  I  do  not  wiSh  for  any  new 
experience  of  life  at  sea.    We  got  to  Quebec  this  morn--       ' 
mg,  and  found  the  weather  beautiful, , but  very  cold 
One  steamer,  which  left  the  Monday"  before  us,  arrived 
yesterday  with  her  bulwarks  washed  away,  and,  having 
lofet  three  boats.    Our  Prussian  received  no  dAe  •  she 
>s  si|^  a  good  s^^oat  ^^   ' 

■The -Genex 


l^- 


meet  us,«and  o 


feUfenalil-Governor,   etc.,   came   to 
ding  at  this  lovely  place  was  very 


\ 


'^rmmm 


I:' 


.% 


•#"■ 


',^»i , 


''^AN  jOuajSTAL. 


r^ 


236 

pretty.  WmmS^^V      A 

welco^i^to  meet  us  at  Fathir  P^^'  '""  ^.^"^^^"-«  -^ 
stol.  on  the  way  anywhere  w'  ^^^'"«^  "^  "^^  to 
aftetnoon,  and  reach  OttaayJiBfiSL  ^^  ""^  ^°^^  ^^'^  ' 

.  W  come  out  with  us  I  pLee  ^^'r  t'"'^"'*  "^° 
:^rnet  Fletcher,  reached  Ot^!  ^°'^"''  ^"^  Lady 

f  e  hotel  there.     They  ca^^^  -"^  are^ 

"^use.  "^^  ^^"^^  t°  l"nch,  and  to  see  their 

*'fe.o„  childr;„  catl^oTeTTt'  '""  '  """■    «'  Li.. 

:  -ne.     They  expered. He-;'. h'e"' Kir"  ;'rf""'°' 
»  "own  and  train  and  «m  ...    f  *^'"S  "f  Canada  "  in 

•tae  -,ai„  app,a:'ir,„,rd'el'"''  "■"■^'  ^"""^  '"■"« 

been  begun.    It  is  to  servTth.  tennis-court  i|#^ 

as  well.        ,  '"'^^  ^'^^  P"'-P0se  of  a  supper-rooT 

-''""  to  ^^^t^S^!^;^rr  !r^  ''^^^ '"  '"^^  «--«on 

talk.  ^       ':  ^"^  ^'^^  ^J'-eady  deep  in  millinery- 

Thursday^  iSth.—Vf^   ikf^H    (         ,.  'I 

year,  6n  the  Rideau'  wfeeirK  J""      %^'''  ^'"^^^  this 
Wehadagreatiw     !    •^•^^'^'^^P^^^PJace. 

Supreme  Cou^JxT^o  !" f  I  '"'  "^^^-^^^  of  the 

#ce  simply  perfedT^  ha^Ilif '^^'*"'%  ^'^-^ff- 
•■^Jo  teach  us  tc.  Aoodlt  propi^^,i!f?^'^'^'^°'"  ^°'^-'    ^ 
structions  is  excellent    '  ^"^A  Result  of  h1ff„^* 

'^f  ff  a  box  directed  to  meW^^'^'''''  ^'  ^«v. 
S^^^P^^^^,  4resse<^|K,'^"''""^^*  *^°"- 


*  Lord  If athef 


!iartest  blue  velyet 


»-G,^Mr6r; 


^«=m6neI713Sp,l^^= 


nls. 


m-. 


DEC.  187s 


SKATING. 


237 


gown,  for  Victoria.    She  was  delighted,  and  carried  it 
about  all  the  evening. 

Saturday,  uth—ySt  asked  Miss  Kingsford,  Miss  Pat- 
rick, and  some  of  the  other  good  skaters  to  come  to-day 
that  we  might  practice  our  figures.  This  was  a  real' 
true  skating-party,  with  no  temptations  to  toboggan  or 
dance,  and  it  was  very  pleasant.  We  worked  away  at 
roses,  double  roses,  thistles,  lilies,  snails,  etc.,  and  then 
i#e  came  m,  had  some  tea,  andfWked  about— the  tancy 
ball.  v.- 

\  Mqnday,  2oth.-^On  Saturday  we  had  the  same  peopl^ 
as  last  week,  but  as  the  thermometer  .was  about  20°  be- 
low zero,  skating  was  k  doubtful  pleasure.  Sunday  was 
still  colder,  and  to-day  the  weather  is  no  milder. 

Tuesday,  .?/.f/.,^Durihg  the  afternoon  a  sudden  and 
^mfortable  chan|;e  in  the  weather.  They  d^jLhere  was 
^^  7^^  the  twelve  hours ;  and  ce^^ly  it  be- 
ll^ery  wWm,  and  a  complete  thaw  set  in  after  a  very 
Mnap '  indeed.  ' 
^J^nd^jjt/A. —The  snow  is  quite  off  the  tpAgganing- 
slide,  andlMpkating  Rink  is  spoiled  for  the  present;  but 
it  has  beguTtd-  freeze  again.  I  was  very  busy  all  day 
with  Mrs.  Hall,  arranging  the  Christmas-tree.  At  five 
o'clock  Gwen  and  Russell*  and  Fred  Ward  arrived. 
They  met  kt  Prescott  Gwen  looks  extremely  well. 
During  the  severe  frost  in  Montreal  h|pr  hot-water-pipes 
burst,  and  she  was  nearly  frozen. 

Saturday,  2sth.-^K  wet  Christmas  Day  in  Canada  !  We 
went  to  church  under  umbreUas !  ,  However,  it  cleared 
up  afterwards,  but  was  at  no  time  a  nice  day.  At  five 
o'clock  the  Lhtleton  children  came,  and  after  tea  th« 
tree  in  the  t^U-room  was  lighted  up,  and  the  shrieking 
"brats'^  -were  admitted  to  it.     The  tree  was  very  sue 


My  »i.ster  and  brother-in-law,  Mruuid  Mrs.  Ritpert  Steph. 


enson. 


iii&.  «(!.-«• 


y*  li^^ri^^^ 


238 


'r^^T": 


^^c^A^^z;/^^^^^^^,^^ 


-«ssful,  and  really  looked  v. 
J-tinfront.„ftheThrone      /T'^'"^-     ^'  -as  placed 
«hape  were  concealed  by  "pes  o^''""'  -^-'ncities  :'- 
a"d  glass  balls,  and  it  was    '         "J'^^'-^^'^'-^d  crackers 
f  "d  surrounded  on  the  fln       u"'"^  ^''^  «"^^11  Present 
-'•n,  bounded  by  a  pal  n/oT  ''/"^"  ^"-'  ^'^    "o  e 
^-o-«.     On  the  floor  were  afso  t'T'"^"^^^  -^'-g- 
f^-"s,  presented  by  His  Ex  to  d  ff  '       '  '''"  ^°"'-  tobol 
-ely  one  for  m.     When  tt  fir r"'  P-Pie-one  very 
'e  subsided  we  began  to  take  thel''''^''"^"^  ''^^  -  'it 
^    -  J^appy  to  say  the  ch,    rl'^  f;"// ^J ''^-ree,  and 
^'th  their  presents.  appeared  well  pleased 

^nd  Russell  S.ephenson^  Mactfl.:''':""  f>-.  F.  Ward 
Lietleton.     We  also  dre^  for  ,h         '  '^'■«'  ''"<'  Colonel 

.  lanticipate  great  atol  '"^"^''  '<>'  "y  cun 

""I  Owen  ^.tcl^g\l2TT  '"  "^""SM^s  Sleton 
very  excited  over  !Z     a„"d  k"'!  "'^^  ^  '"^y  -e  b    a" 

.    Sa/uriaj;  JVw  year's  n  ^''7— "le  ladies,  I  mean 

--;»  between  .welTe  ^^0^7^=    "--"    "- 
1  he  day  was  very  mid  ■  Z^  "'■<'»y-"5  gentlemen 

^^^^yratetaeweatHerwasdecidedi:r,;^S-;,^^« 

-fprre1j"ra:--w"r.-peopleandt.eir        ■ 
Nobody,"  written  by  Mr    n  '""  '''^•'-  P'ay,  "L.ttt 


^npporfea  on 'eaci, 


-'<K 


'/ 


^r^'*"'*'*  ^^^^re^D  VS.  BACHELORS^ 


239 


s.de  by  mmor  fairies  of  the  female  sex,  while  two"  male 
fa.nes  s.t  m  cars  underneath.  This  is  the  last  scene  of 
the  play  and  while  this  gorgeous  sight  is  in  the  back- 
fhrfrnn!  ^^^';;<^  P^^^ormers  in  the  piebe  are  grouped  in 
the  front.  We  had  an  appreciative  audience,  filling  the 
room.  '6  "'^ 

'  Tuesday,  itth.-K  very  important  curling-match  took 
place  m  our  nnk,  between  the  four  "  Fredericks  "  of  xhe 
V.cerega  Club  and  the  four  "Jameses"  of  the  Ottawa 
Club.  Alas!  the  Jameses  won  by  one.  There  were  to- 
bogganmg  and  skating-  after  lunch.  A  lovely  dav- 
about  zero.  ^        ^  ,. 

Iff^sday,  7^M._The  married  men  of  the  Curling 
Cub  had  a  match  against  the  single  ones.  The  best 
bachelor  was  absent,  and  '<  little  Campbell  "  (who  is  verv 
short-sighted,  and  never  plays)  took  his  place.  He  was 
a  great  element  of  amusement;  for,  in  the  first  place  he 
made  by  accident  two  most  beautiful  shots,  then  he  fell 
m  front  of  a  stone  while  sweeping,  etc.  The  bachelors 
were  beaten  by  18  to  ..  There  was  much  tobogganing 
in  the  afternoon,  and  a  frightful  upset,  Fred  and  Colonel 
Littleton  corning  in  with  their  noses  scraped  by  the  icv 
snow  upon  which  tjiey  fell. 

TAursday,   jjfA.-The   bachelors   determined   to  try 
and  regain  their  laurels  t^-day,  and  marched  in  proces^ 
s.on  to  the  Rmk.     They  were  dressed  in  white  blanket- 
coats,  wore  white  kid  gloves,  and  orange-flo.Wers  in  their    ' 
inmon-holes.     Their  fate  was. 'howe^r,  as  sad  as,yes- 

Monday,  s^^A.^W^  had  a  k^^ldren  's  party'  in  the 
even  when  the  fifty-fivripn  and   their  mam 

mas  h^d  arrived  and  seated  theifef^^,  "  Little  Nobody  " 
began,  and   went  most  succe5gfalj)r.jiir,3^  .g,^^^ 


when  in  the  middle  o7  the  last  beauTiful^aioTt^nsfor- 
mation  scene  there  was  a  fire,  which  might  have  been 


.:t 


Mil 

M 

;'  1 

K 

■  ■» 

r  ^ml 

■  ' 

-"d.e'u'ndeytl';  "T''"^  '°  a'tae-ligh,  held  a 
.>-e  „„,  ;e.p,,e  tl"'  "at^^rtUrr  '"™""^^ 

ne.  e^:?,  al  r^l    '™V--;«'  -"speech.   'na,i.^J 

rose-light  over  U,e  scent-h^ ,    /       """  """"'fo*  a  , 

»as   spoiled,  and  te  author  a°ndT"' ■'■''""'  ""'' 
■Iheir  hands  a  litlle  .  '!'"=afpe"'"  burned 

wn.i„go.;Krp::  r:t:r™^n-;'^'>-eb,er 

"e  a  ver,  prertilTe^;^!  [i::'-;-  -  -P^c.  .his  ».„    '  • 

.«.p«<(  W  .he  singing  laMe    .h„,*"""f  •  "°  """^ 
of  each  figure      V„,,  ^  ''"'"'""''.  'ha.  is,  thirty  copies 

difficuify  of  arrang  nra^TJ'"'  "'  ""'"'''"  """••■=■ 

.  Fred  Ward  doe.  .hf  a'rd    .  pa^-  STh:  ''^  "',  h^'""-       ■ 
•of  it.     •  '^  ".♦  '^"^  ^  hdp— aucJ  dream 

ingt:;^':^r^-J^^,'^-«- -decided  .his  .orn.-      '^ 
people  Vin      I  te,v  "I       f  -^t'  *'"  """''=  "^  "derly 

vep^'jch  a.i„rhtd!to';th:h^''hrsr''"-f  i 

I  intended  to  .aH  him  "'■"""  "'  "*' '""«  "<"". 

•his  came  1  e  „,!,,      ■■  "f "  "'  ""  "">«  P"""'    ^fte  ■  ' 


IHH^^Ml 


h*k 


f  ■• 


MARCH  1876       OPENING  OF  PAikUAMENT. 


f4I 


Sunday,  j6th.—-'Y\it.  Com^,  Loui§  de  Turenne  arrived, 
and  we  took  him  a  snow-^oe  walk.  *■   ' 

\^'i/<7««/ay,  j/j/.— We  a>I— I),  and  I.  the  Littletons,  the 
Freds,  and  the  Comtek  de  Turenne— started  in  a  private 
^wtor  Montreal       /  >>  >         '^ 

vVednesday,  Mar^ch  ist.-~K  Jtery  stormy,*  snowy  day, 
extremely  cold,  and  no  admittance  tO  the  Kink,  In  the 
evening  thefe  Was  a' fancy  dress;  ball  on  the  ice.  The 
Count,  the  Littletons,  land  those  who  had  not  seen  this 
"  ,  i)efow,  wef*  delighted  with  the  sight.  It  was  bitterly 
cold>*«nd  I  was  glad  to  skate  a.  tittle  in  a  domino.  I 
ilanced  a  set  of  lancers  and  some  other  things  with  D. 
Thursday,  2d.— Some  good  skating  in  the  morntng, 
^  theK  a  grand  lunch  at  Mj.  Ryan%  which- our  three 
^  Fredericks  had  to  leave  early,  as  they  were  gbing  to 
._^  joiia  the  fbuPth  Frederick„in  playing  against  four  jafmeses. 
W/  meanLto  go  and  see  the  game,  but  when  we  jtt-rived' 
,''^  «tftli^'  door  of  the  Rink  we  met-our.  party  coming  out, 
'  ;    .  vJctQriou^nd  radiant.  *  ,>'" 

VSa/urm',  ^M.— We    left  Montreal    by  the   morning 

W   train,  taking  with  us  the  Con^e  de  Turenne  aiidOawen.* 

.      *^^*"''*-^'  7''^— The  Marquis  and  Marquise  de  Bassano 

'■\Jii*'5^^«'  this  afternoon,  just  as  we  were  finishiog  a  labori- 

oUs-iipl»earsal  of  part  of  "-School."  « 

IVednesJay,  StA.—A.  cold,   windy  day;   however,   we 

went  out  knd  skated.     The  Comte  de  Turenne  is  work,- 

*  ing  hard  at  the  outside  edge'.     The  Cabinet  dinner  took 

place  to-night,  and  the  new  Ministers  came  for  the  first 

■*      time.  In  thei^   uhifoVms.     The  dinner  was  in  the  ball-. 

room,  ^A  we  .had  a  band  to  play  during  the  evening. 

Thursday,  pth.-Jix\ihc  fnorni»ig  we  had  some  skating 
and  ctfrl'ingi 'tKe  day  was  btautiful  and  mild.  After 
lufcK  we  went' to  the  opening'  of  Parliament. 


•  My  hrother,  CoJpncI  Gawcb  R.  ilamil|p»t. 

4: 


*' 


-^ 


Ik: 


242 


t 


1' 


r. 


i 


■  "*■■■ 

^fy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


K      ■     "• 


CH.  XIV 

rested,  as  we  hacfS  dine'at    et^'^.T:  t  '^^^^^^  ^^^  ^ 

I>rawing-room. afterwards         nem    aw  so'"""'  '""'^ 
at  one  before  and  T  m.'  /k  •''''  '"'''"y  P^op'e 

.  Drawingroo"  ^  '^^^  ""^"^  ^^  ^  ^^^^  ^^'er  the 

The^iSnTte^'^Jllte^t'-'^^P-^i".-- 
the  first  two  act.  of-Schoo         f """""--  -hearsed 

the    evenrng    the    other   twenTy  ei^ht  ' '"'  '" 

and   we  rehearsed   th.     .  "^^"^^^^'^^t   singers   arrived, 
waltz       y^^^'"-^^  ^^^  «'"&'"g  quadrilles,   laneers    and 
waltz.      I  he  lancers  went  beautifullv  an,    ,^.         \ 
very  pretty  .  Z^'*"'""'')'' ^nu   the  waltz  is 

ful  party      Th„  i    ir?    ,  ""■'""  '''"  "  ■"""  «"<^««- 
whi^h  „L  I':;;*:  '="'  -  -"  '-e  before  our  baU, 

will  be  very  pretlv      Th,  h  n  ^  ™"'"'  '"  """s, 

b=  l.a»  beguT.rlain   „'  '""^'"  ""^  ''"""'  *'"■  "'•  »"'• 
hi».i,ir  ntw  I  bJ".      "?'"'' "'"■'"■''ranee  of      . 
"•     "  Will  be  a  nice  thine-  in  ha«w.     tir 


S 


IKAKCH<l876 


THEA  TRICALS. 


had  a  great 
^assano  and  I 
>resen£  at  the 
many  people 
oriTious  nuni- 
ice  after  the 

)Guring  ram. 

ive  rehearsed 
isfully.     Mr. 

nner,  aud  in 

ers   arrived, 

laneers,  and 

■he  waltz  is 

T.  so  bright 
re  would  be     ' 
'm  Ottawa,  ♦ 

and  to  to- 
lookers-on, 
St  success- 
e  our  ball, 

'hite  tent, 
is  bearing 
I  its  walls, 
J  in  roses. 
Mr.  Bier, 
•  h  us,  and 
brance  of 
went  out, 
for  His 
lyers  hfl/| 


243 


.  We  dressed  for  the  fancy  ball  at  nine-all  our  house- 

,  hold  m  costumes  of  the  same  period-and  wglked  in  pro- 
cession up '  th'e  room.  The  dresses  of  our  guests  were 
beautiful,  and  there  was  great  variety  in  them  the 
smg,ng.dances  and  the  new  supper-roo'm  were  much  ad- 
'  m.red,  and  when  people  went  away  at  4  a.  m.  they  seemed 
extremely  pleased. 

■■;  Saturday,j,_^.^i,  snowed  hard~in  fact,  I  have  never 
seen  the  snow  round  us  so  deep.     The  Littletons  have  to 
be  almost  , dug  out  every  day,  and  the  road  to  their  house 
.  IS  on  a  level  with -the  palings. 

Monday,  ^///i.-The  French  members  of  the  Com- 
'  monsgave  a  beautiful  ball  ui  the  new  Library  at  Ottawa 
to  which  we  went.  The  room,  an  enormous  round  biiiid- 
mg.  was  very  Avell  lighted.  I  believe  fifteen  hundred 
people  were  m  it,  and  there  was  no  crush  at  all  We  en 
joyed  .t  very  much.  Numbers  of  people  wore  their  fancy 
dresses.  -^^^^  •' 

^''^"'•^'^•Iv.^pM.-TheComtedeTurenne  arrived  for 
the  play.     The  actors  dmed  early  in  I). "s  room.     Th«n  i     ' 
went  to  dress  for  Mrs.  Honeyton,  in  .the  "  Happy  Pair  " 
1  Wfen  the  "  School  -  arrived,  and  began  to  dress  i^,,  one     ^ 
room,  and  the  men   had  another,  and  the  guests  came   • 
crowding  in,  and  got  off  their  things  in  the  school-rbom    ' 
and  there  were  painting  and  curling  and  excitement  going 
on  everywhere. 

Fred  and  t  began  the  perforfeafice-wrth  "A  Happy 
Pajr,"  and  had  a  very  warm  audience,  which  was  pleas- 
ant. <'School"is  a  very  difl[ieult  piece  for  amateurs- 
Out  r  musl  say  that  it  was  an  unequivocal  success 
Every  part  was  well  done,  and  it  was  quite  neW  here,  so 
the  audience  liked  it  immensely     I  was  really  surprised 

;T  K.Vy"^'",^"^^*^  supper-room  to  see  how  handsome 
-  It  luukud,  and  It  tfiiamiy.is  A  much  needed-  additioiTuT"" 
,  the  house,  enabling  us  to  give  supper  to  a  large  patty M 


u    *   • 


v."' 


I 


j' 


:(■ 


244 


J^y  CAXADIAxV  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XIV 

once.     Afterwards  I  went  into  the  drawing-room,  and 
sa,d  good-n.ght  to  all  the  beaming  crowd 

Tuesday,  April  jith.-Snch  a  toveiy  day.     We  piav 

tenn.s,  walk,  lunch,  practice  some  music,  drive  into  Ot 

tawa.and  go  to  a  birthday-party  of  the  Littktons,  where' 

there^was  to.  be  a  mag,c  lantern.     I  took  six  children 

and  Victoria  enjoyed  her  first  party  immensely,  and  ap' 

Flauded  every  slide.     When  a  somewhat  undrap;d  statue 

wa^^^bued^  she  exclaimed  that  '<  Hallie  would  pip 

^  ^.«^a,,v7M._Gwen,  Miss  Abbot,  and  I  drove  into 
Ottawa  in  the  morning,  and  after  lunch  walked  to  the 
river  Rideau  to  see  the  ice  coming  down.  We  stood  for 
some  time  watching  great  blocks  go  over  the  Falls  and 
ten  «.ent  to  look  over  a  bridge  a   little  way  off;'  but 

the  i-alls,  that  we  returned  to  our  original  place    and 

utes  belTirHV'""^"''  '^'  been  standing  a  few  mm' 
utes  before,  had  been  partly  carried  away.  We  sat  down 
where  we  could  h,ve  a  good  view  of  the  river  and  Jw 
such  a  .W,/„^,  and  heard.such  a  cras.i^  0^^^^^^ 
hard  at""  T'  "'"'"^"^  °"  '""^  ^P"^— -  ^^^  houses 

^^ ir  :;r:s^"'  ^^^^^-^  --^^  -^-  --^  ^^ 

T/'ursJay,  May  ////i.^The  waters  of  the  Ottawa  are 

S.X  feet  higher  than  they  have  been  for  years.and  tlere  ! 

muchmore.cetocomed.wn;  there  are  floods  everywhere 

Tues^iay,  MM.-The  weather  deserves  to  be  recorded 

or  ,t  rcaly  was  line.  bHght  and  sunny,  and  unS^^^^ 

t.,/^^'''^/^'  >/»^  /x/.^io3'  in-  the  shade.     I  wa..  '>.t 
k^n.^,"  a..a  uvd^U  my  v.sUors  in  the  garden  £r!m  four 


u 


JuNri876 


RIVER  PARTY. 


24S 


r 


to  six,  wrhen  it  was  cooler  and  very  pleasant.  They 
looked  at  a  game  of  tennis,  and  seemed  to  enjoy  the 
garden.  - — - 

Wednesday,  7ih.-D.  apd  I,  Nelly,  the  Smyths^  and 
Littletons,  left  by  a  steamer  at  seven  o'clock -#-the 
morning,  and  landed  at  Bucki^jgham  at  eight  There 
we  saw  a  lovely  waterfall.  The  river  Le  Lievre;  a  large 
tributary  of  the  Ottawa,  rushes  at  this  place  through  a 
very  narrow  passage,  and"  after  falling  a- few  feet  the 
mclme  .becomes  more  gradual,  but  the  water  tumbles 
over  rocks  and  stones,  and  looks  like  a  very  steep  rapii 
unlike  ^ything  I  have  ever  seen  before,  and  very  beau- 
tiful. This-  sight  was  only  en  passant.  Nelly  was  de- 
lighted, and  kept  up  a  fire  of  joyful  exclamations,  which 
helped  us  to  like  getting  up  so  early. 

After  dfiving  through  the  village  of  Bucki^ham, 
which  was  gayly  decorated  with  flags  and  arches ^e  got 
out  at  a  wharf,  and  found  a  small  steam-lqunch  ready  to 
take  us  up  the  river.  We  had  twenty-five  miles  to  go 
and  were  to  be  four  hours  doing  it.  There  were  some 
swift  rapids  in  the  river,  and  when  we  came  to  the  worst 
ones  we  were  told  that  the  steamer  was  too  heavily 
laden,  and  that  some  of  us  must  get  out.  We  had  a  good 
deal  of  trouble  landing  the  gentlemen,  D.  only  remaining 
with  us.  , 

The  small,  engine  puffed  away,  but  we  made  no  prog- 
ress: and  we  got  very  frightened.  The  bell-fope  which  ' 
the  pilot  iised  for  giving  his  orders  had  been  burned 
thrdHgh,  a  lace  curtain  haVing*"  caught  ,fire  early  in  the 
day,  and  when  he  called  out  his  orders  the  stoker  "did 
not  alWaysi  seem  to  hean  D.-  tried  to  reassure  us,  but 
when  we  looked  out  and  found  that  we  remained  exactly  ♦  ■ 
m  the  same  pjace— off  a  great  rock—we  ladies  w«.ri>  in 
-airagony  or  terror.  Tben  the  boat  began  to -turn  round, 
and  the  genllen>eo  on  shore  were  irightcfie<i  too  when 


.' '  •«' 


'  ^J- 


246 


'.f 


s«^ 


^ 


MY  CANADIAN  journal: 


CH.  XIV 

•  thlT  "',">■'=='■=''  'hat  if  we  were  to  touch  a  rock  or 
the  br^ch  of  a  tree,  while  we  had  this  powerful  s,7eam 
broad.de  on,  we  should  be_^,opp,ed  over.    Bythis'tm" 

^.     u  ,   .      /'"^"ys  race,  the  tears  pour  ne-  dnwn 

as.  she   exclaimed,    "Oh'    it    «,iii   k       1^  """^  aown, 
d!-owned"     Rn„,  -  '^^  ^^  horirij!  to  be 

^.-era,s::r:;,-rr^5^-f.&^^^^ 
a-^SnrhTrV:?:;^'^---' -'-' -^i§ 

VXe  ha^d  all  lost  our  appetite  through  fright-and 
they  had  been  good-for  we  breakfasted  at Ifx.nd^t' 
was  three  o'clock  before,  we  landed,  still  treU  i'ng  and    ' 
had,lunch  on  the  shor,.     Afte.  that  we  had. 'o  wJlk  a 
^|e  and-a  half  to  see  the  Fall,  .he  object  of  ou^  Jl^j! 

The  walk  was  rough,  and  we  had  some  climb.ne  and 
some  steep  pUces   to  go  down,  and  there  w  "e  a  great 

r:e"feT;rT:^'^r'^^  that  after  our  ad':    . 
ure  we  felt  that  the  wate^falj  must  really  be  fine  to 

was  hat  we  could  not  see  the  waterfall  for  the  foam 
buut  really  was  a  splendid  srght.  and  perfectly  u2"i  ., 
any  fall  ever  saw  or  imagined.  We  stood  on  a  rJck 
about  half-way  down  the  Fall,  and  couJd  neither  see  tht 
breadth  nor  the  height  of  it,  but  only  the  thic^  ess  of  " 
't.  A  nver  w.th  a  rapid  ,tream  passes  through  a  vev 
narrow  passage  here,  and  issues' like  a  wall  of  wa  e^ 
fram  between  the  rocks.     I  f^U   as  if  a  puff  of   wild 

wis  IT  ''  '"""  ^""  '"^-     ^^  -"t  '-er  Z' 
wards,  and  saw  more  of  it;   it  Is.very  high  .nd  very 

,,u.^fr'.''Vr  ''':'"''""^  ^°  ""»•  boat,  and  when  w. 
virnd  fu,  iumcnuug-io  dr.nk  We  found  that  everything 


I' 


•i?      ' 


JUNE  i€l76 


QUEBEC. 


247 


had  disappeared  from  our  basket.     Lucky  for  us  that 
^  drinks  had  been  preferred  to  silver  spoons !     Nelly  and 
I  rather  dreatied  the  descent  of  our  friend  the    rapid, 
but  we  got  down  safely  in  three  hours.  ' 

We  found  a  large  bonfire  burning  at  iJuckingham  - 
and  a  crowd  of  people.  There  we  got  into  the  carriages,' 
and  prospered  till  we  came  to  a  steep  hill  with  a  preci- 
pice on  one  side,  in  the  middle  of  which  our  horses 
jibbed,  and  when  they  got  us  well  to  the  edge  of  the 
"precipice,"  Nelly  and  I  escaped  through  the  window 
(a  large  one)'.  The  horses  were  led  down  the  hill,  and 
p.  reproacl^ed  us  for  leaving  him  alone  in  his  peril. 

It  was  rather  cold  all  day  on  the  water,  but  warm 
when  we  landed.  We  got  back  about  eleven,  very  tired  • 
but,  in  spite  of  all  our  troubles,  we  were  glad  to  have 
seen  those  splendid  falls.  / 

When  we, undertook  the  expe^tion  "(invited  by  the 
owner  of  the  steamer)  we  did  not  think  it  would  take  so 
long,  and,  in  fact,  knew  little  abdut  it.  The  steamer 
has  only  been  on  that  run  for  a  few  weeks,  anH  scarcely 
anyone  has  seen  this  Fall ;  but  I  think  it  is  a  most  mag- 
nificent sight.  A  reporter  was  present,  and  it  depends 
upon  what  he  thought  of  the  rapids  whether  other  peo- 
ple are  encouraged  to  go  or  not.  As  he  was  not  in  the 
boat,  and  had  no  friend  to  be  alarmed  about  on  board 
his  view  will  probably  be  cheerful.  ' 

Mondaj,,  /^M.-Packing  day  !  Very  hot,  and  every 
one  melting  and  busy.  Boxes  and  bags  yawning  all 
over  the  house.;,  holiday  for^the  children 

nursJay,  /fZ/i.^We  started  early  in  the  morning 
by  tram  to  Prescott,  there  got  into  the  steamer,  and 
had  a^^easant  voyage  to  Montreal,  where  we  changed 
from  one  steamer  td  another,  and  came  on  to  Quebec 

(?tf^'^^^-v^^/-./rfjV/tf/i.-Ai^ived  earty,^riancfed  at" 
e.ght;  the^  Lieutenant-Governor  and  a  guard  of  honor 


1  't    /       '^    yr^?^ 


248 


'Jtfy  CANADIA]^ JOURNAL. 


*     CH.XIV 

fh^  r^  ^  "^^'  ^""  ^^  tl'tl  not  go  out  till 

the  late  fire-desolat.on  over  a  large  space. 

no/   T  ^■''  "^<^-^^^  ^-^nt  to  see  the  temporary  ac 
commodation  arranged  fnr  fho       «    -  ^'"F"rary  ac- 

taken  in  c.J   ^"^"5^5  f-""^  ^^^  sufferers:  charities  have 

PooV  n^     ,T\^"u  ^'■'"■^'^^^  ^"^  •^^"^-•'^  hold  oth  J 
-  Poor  peopleWho  have  lost  their  all  bore  their  misfoTt 

the  evening  ^e  went  to  see  the  "  Busy  Bees  "  r-rform 
They  are  the' officers  and  soldiers  of  the  B  BattS'  .  h 
-presented  on  thii  occasion  the  Christy^Mins  7^;;' 
>ng  songs,  etc.  ^"c.s,  bing- 

J/.«^^,   7p/^._Three   strangers   drned  with   us-   a 
Frenchman,  an  Austrian,  and  an   Englis'hman      D    en 

afternoon  '    '"'  ""  "^"^^  "'^  ^"^^^  '" 

the  EltnLdTa'f '  -^'^  '''''^'  ^'^"  "^«  ^  ^^^^^  - 
e  iisi9ianade-a  review  on  a  small  scale  with  the  R 

cirr,^  r.r.  y  '''''^^  ^  series  of  hfeavy  thunder-showers 

^  came  on,  which  lasted  all  day  '"wers 

'^'''^«'fl'',^/./._The  citizens  of  Quebec  gave  a  ^reaT 
dinner  to  the  Governor-General  to  niUt     -rf  ^ 

most  beautifully  arran^eriH  It  ^        ^^he  room  was 
of  it  looked  1  Lr^^'  ^^  '^^^^'  ^^  ^'^^  fa^  ^"d 

,  D.  and  his  spee.h:wrrc  immtu.cl>  wdt  rec<>ived,  a^id 


•\   ' 


JUNE  1876  LOJfD  D  UFFERIN'S  SPEECH. 


249 


he  spoke  very  well.     He  began  by  saying,  ''  I  can  not 
help  remembering  under  what  varidus  conditions,  in  how' 
many  vital  emergencies,  at  what  supreme  epochs  in  its 
history,  during  the  last  300  years,  my  illustrious  prede- 
cessors must  have  had  occasion  to  harangue  the  citizens 
of  Quebec.     In  a  thousand  vicissitudes  of  fortune,  in 
perpetual  alternations  of  triumph  and   despondency— 
•   when  hordes«f  savaged  were  lurking  round  your  pali- 
sades; when  famine  had  prostrated  your  strength,  and 
the  unaccustomed  rigors' of  an  Arctic  winter  had   be- 
numbed ^r  faculties  ;  ^when  novel  forms  of  pestilence 
devastated  ydur  homes,  crowning  your  clergy  arfd  your  ' 
sisterhoods  with  the  aureole  of  thartyrdom ;  when  far^ ' 
eign  leaguers  assaulted  your  independence,  and  Tiostile 
cannon  threatened  your  battlements— Viceroy  after  Vice- 
-    roy  has  appealed  to  your  patience,  your  fortitude,  yqur 
chanty,  your  patriotism ;  and   never  once,,  whether  in 
good  fortune  or  ill  fortune,  as  your  history  tells  us,  has 
the  appeal  been  made  in  vain."    At  the  end  he  proposed 
the  toast  of  "Prosperity  to  Quebec."  -^ 

Friday,  23d.— W^  visited  t|je  Sillery .  Con^fe,  and 
then  walked  into  a  place  belor^ing  to  Colonel  klodes. 
He  has  underground  gardens,  , which  supply  flowers, 
myshrooms,  winter  salads,  etc.  The  Colonel,  whp  enter- 
tamed  us  most  hospitably,  has  made  quite  a  name  foq  ', 
himself  as  a/ practical  gardener  here.  The  view  from 
^he  house  is  lovely.  ^ 

On   our  return  home  we  had  a  long  visit'lrom  the 
BassanOs,  who  were  delighted  with  our  platform.     After  ■ 
dinner  the  soldiers  had  soiqe  very  good  theatricals. 

Saturday,  24th.— T>.  wefit  dOwrt  Ito  the  steameMo  say  *' 
a  few  words  to  the  Canadian  rifle-team,  Viow  starting  for 
Wimbledon.  J^ 

_L  was  "  at  home,"  aft4  tfre  k^vglyfflornTqg-tOTmrd-TntTr- 

<«  very  bad  afternoon.     Thunder  and  ^howers  and  wind ' 


\L^-^  C  •      i  \  *.u 


% 


ym. 


r 


r      Si 

I 

'■  .■•I 

,    -4! 


^4 


^/'K  CAI^ADIAN  JOURNAL 


, _. .  CH.  XIV 

came  on,  and  though  I  had  many  visitor,  th 
uncomfortable.     Some  feared  for  tlT'      ^^  ""^'^  ^"' 
%cl  thunder,  and  some  tho  '  h>  i  m?''  '°'"'  ^'■^- 

ho^;andrsmcere,,s>;::f:;^,:,:r^^f- 

^^««''^7,  ^^M.-We   went  to  the  Mil  ^k      " 
from  u  savhe  procession  of  Jean  Bam  f.  }   '"^ 

the  town  on  the  way  to  the  ch u^r:h     '  ;";  rtV^^ 
festival  at  Quebec.  '  ^  "'^^ 's  the  great 

^ye  spent  two  hours  at  the  Ursulin.  n 
-ng  prizes   to   the.  pupil-teachers       rn,  T''"'  '"  ^'"■ 
them,    and   commented    upon   thV  r  '  ' 'P'^^*^  *° 

which  young  ladies  ar^  a, uded:  onr^''"'   "^^  '" 
stancing  the  case  of  <•  Nellie  Gram  '       ''''  ^""^'"^"^  i"-. 

We  returned  homp  in   r;,^^   ^      '  \ 
off  to  Montreal,  and  c;  "en  was  obi       T^""  "^'  ^"^^^" 

ing  her  han^rch.ef  To   tirchild  '     /' "'"^'""^  "-- 
«!■-  •  ^  children  for  several  miles 


down  the 
In  the 
Jean  Ba,. 
a  great  hqi 


re.7  1"'m    '  '""""'  «''"="  "y  -he 
«re  son,  ifle^A?:' Cnid"  '°  "^^  ^"^  «'-"^» 

crepa^r^'  r:td~tirer::i,tT  "r^r'-^  =^^^"  '- 

'ookfour  children  to  se     the   uH        '"""='"'•  ^"^ 

treat  to  them  ,„  visit  the  „„„,  Tn  ,  "  '^  "  ^''^^ 

.ce,ve  „,aple  sugar  ehrough  the  blrs  "^''  '""  ">'''■ 

<iay,a„deveo.thi„g„rbo'°V°''  '"  '"e  Z>.,„y,  a,„veiy 
We  enjoyed  siiling^^LK    '  Z'  ."""'""^'"'^  ^"^  ™« 

fort„„l^;fh  *^,^:7t!' W.  -  -■^-  O'clock.  „,os. 


^ 


,/ 


'tTO-mgrrbr  fishing. 


I 


/ 


■  t  rr?"^  ,i^)^iy  iippvM 


Jfiv  ,8,6      ^/W/*c  o^    ^^^    ^^^^  ^^^^^ 


'5' 

We  went  up  ,„  i,,  however_an  hour's  drive  and  ,h 

^o/ver;  l:.  *d  art^:r ::  we^n^t ,::  ^r 

ever^presen,  and  are'^^.e  ta:,era;,e   "'  "'™^""  ^'= 

been  invited  ,o  fah  a^d  whi!h  t  a";;  T     "  '"^^  ''^'' 
ours.     I  sat  all  dav  in    „  "'''"  "''"  '^1 

took  charg    ouZZ":T'°-""""  '""i"^'  Archie 

small  devfces  forkiflL  ?    "''"''J'''  ''"'''" '"  ^■''"°"» 
,„rf  IT   Z  ^  '!""='  »"<!  «  eight  o'clnrW  n 

and  Fred  returned.     I)    hM  r^„crU,  r      «"'  °  "^'fck  D. 

.ruse,  the  average  weighrortTe^tl^^n  "^  ^H; 
the  largest  one  .8  lbs.     Fred  had  ««  salmon  of  ..6    bs 

nooKea,  and  took  him  two  hours  to 'kill 
■  •>o't7f^:ti~\"  "'^  "'"''  "«-"■  -''  'h"=  can 

cnis.     ij.  and  Fred  went  to  ihe  York      n  tu;.  f 
got  one,  and  Fred  five      Th«  i  ^  ,•         ^'^  *""^ 

and  all  were  over   .ribs      It    ^^'     ''  ''^  "^^  ^^  •^^•' 

assembled  on  board  a  Jin   aM        t';"'  '"''  ^'^"  "« 
ner  till  nearly  ten        ^      '    ^^  "^^  ''"^  "°^  '^"'^«^d  d.n- 

had^f  ^afhT?'  "T"  P^^*  "^^^^  «^h  y-^erday 
M  oeen  caught  at  a  pool  called  Miller's  I  pnHin^       i 

as  D.  found  we  could  drive  over  Xr.  ^*"^^"^»  ^"^ 
suggested  fhnf  T  cK  "  ^^  °^^'^  there  quite  easily,  he 
tyft^,   1       w  "^^  ^''y  "»y  luck.    We 


brought  u.  to  ou"!.  fu^""'  ^""'"^  and  v;:rik;;i 

«:  t  u,  to  our  pool.     We  itpmediately  set  to  work! 


.'AJ   K^ 


I-  .i1 


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*. 


^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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110 


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Sciences 
Coipordtion 


4^ 


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as  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WHSTIR.N.Y    MStO 

(716)  S73.4S03 


^. 


^ 


252 


Ji/y  CANADIAN  JOURXAL. 


en.  XIV 


m 


:   \ 


II 


but  not  a  rise  was  to  be  got,  and  I  feared  my  expedition 
was  going  to  be  fruitless.  We  gave  up  tliis  "good" 
place,  and  went  lower  down  the  river,  and  I  very  soon 
had  the  pleasure  of  a  rise.  I  stood  up  in  the  canoe  to 
throw  the  fly,  and  sat  down  to  manage  my  rod  when  the 
fish  was  on,  for  it  would  be  no  joke  to  ups'-t  the  boat  in 
these  swift  rivers.  I  landed  my  victim  with  success,  and 
he  weighed  21  lbs.  I  tried  once  more,  and  caught  an- 
other 24  lb.s.  D.  and  I  then  had  lunch,  and  I  returned 
home  at  four,  while  he  fished  on,  and  brought  two  more 
salmon  home  in  the  evening.  Fred  was  fishing  higher 
up  the  river,  and  we  hoped  he  would  have  had  a 
good  day;  but  he  had  not  a  rise  till  five  o'clock,  when 
he  came  down  to  the  place  where  we  had  been  in 
the  morning,  and  immediately  had  three.  He  got  the 
third  on,  and  was  just  happy,  thinking  it  secure,  when 
his  reel  broke,  his  fish  went,  and  he  had  to  come 
home. 

We  had  a  very  jolly  little  dinner  when  we  met  again, 
and  enjoy  being  comfortably  on  board  after  our  experi- 
ences of  the  "  Hush." 

The  owner  of  this  river,  with  his  party,  caught  fifty- 
seven  salmon,  averaging  2.3  lbs.,  the  first  wei'k  he  was 
up  here ;  but,  hoping  for  more,  he  went  a  long  way  higher 
up  to  camp  at  the  "  Narrows,"  and  we  have  just  heard 
that  after  four  days  there  they  have  only  caught  three 
salmon.  Mr.  Reynolds  will  regret  this  expedition  when 
he  sees  what  good  fishing  we  have  had  close  to  his 
house. 

Wcdntsday,  ^ih. — This  was  a  lovely  day,  and  we  arc 
assured  that  two  or  three  days  "  of  this  "  will  set  our 
river  right.  We  went  ashore  "to  shop,"  and  1).  visited 
two  schools,  and  after  lunch  we  fished  for  "  Tommy 
cods."  We  all  sat  in  a  boat  and  fished  over  the  side. 
The  excitement  was  in  the  variety  of  the  game — sea 


JULY  1876 


THE   ST.  JOHN  RIVER. 


We 


toads,  blue   fish,  flat   fish.  Tommy  cods,  smelts, 
brought  home  a  bucketful. 

Sunday,  p///._We  went  to  church  in  the  morning,  and 
in  the  afternoon  took  a  most  lovely  walk.  The  weather 
was  beautiful. 

Monday,  loth. — This  morning  Fred  and  Archie  start- 
ed for  the  Bush,  and  D.  and  I  went  to  fish  the  lower 
pools,  intending  to  sleep  here,  and  to  follow  them  to- 
morrow. 

I),  went  on  foot,  taking  with  him  a  little  boy  to  act 
as  guide.  On  the  way,  this  boy  told  him  that  his  father 
had  been  drowned  two  months  ago,  about  twenty  miles 
up  the  river,  having  slipped  into  a  rapid  as  he  was  push- 
ing some  felled  wood  into  the  stream,  and  that  his  body 
had  never  bee.i  found.  To-day,  when  fishing  from  a 
canoe,  I),  hooked  a  salmon,  and  the  man  had  actually 
gaffed  it,  when  it  wriggled  over  the  stern  of  the  canoe 
back  into  the  water.  Knowing  that  the  salmon  was  a 
dead  fish,  X).  paddled  slowly  over  the  pools  below.  All 
of  a  sudden,  as  he  was  looking  over  the  side  of  the 
canoe,  he  saw  lying  at  the  bottom  of  one  of  them,  in 
about  fifteen  feet  of  water,  the  body  of  the  poor  man. 
It  was  in  the  same  condition  as  on  the  day  of  his  death, 
having  been  preserved  in  the  ice-cold  water. 

I  had  a  canoe  and  two  men  to  myself,  and  beg;  .1  the 
day  well  by  getting  several  rises  and  three  salmon.  I 
thought  I  was  going  to  do  wonders ;  but  salmon-fishers 
are  never  sure  of  an  hour's  «'  luck."  D.  came  from  his 
pool  to  meet  me.  with  four  fish,  and  we  landed,  and  were 
devoured  by  mosquitoes  during  lunch.  I  began  again. 
and  whipped  the  waters,  without  even  a  rise,  till  6.30. 
On  my  way  home  I  tried  a  new  pool,  and  got  fast  to  a 
salmon,  whit  h  gave  me  very  hard  work  and  the  greatest 
anxiety  for  half  an  hour,  for  we  were  on  the  brink  of  a 
very  iroublcsom*;  rapid,  and  I  wanted  to  keep  him  away 


254 


MV  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XIV 


from  that.  Then  some  parts  of  the  pool  were  very  deep, 
and  in  others  there  were  logs  and  traps  of  all  descrip- 
tions ;  so  that  I  never  felt  sure  of  my  fish  till  he  was 
landed  in  the  boat.  The  salmon  on  our  river  are  smaller 
than  those  on  the  York,  but  they  are  very  strong  and 
lively.  This  one  kept  rushing  off  with  the  line,  and 
jumping  up  in  the  air  so  far  from  me  that  I  could  scarcely 
believe  he  was  my  salmon.  D.  had  eight  salmon,  and  I 
four— a  great  day's  fishing. 

Wednesday,  12th.— \).  did  not  go  out  this  morning, 
and  sent  in  his  .stead  our  captain,  a  nice  old  man, 
who  has  never  caught  a  salmon  in  his  life.  He  re- 
turned at  two  o'clock  highly  delighted  with  a  twenty- 
Iiounder  he  had  landed,  and  which  we  have  sent  off  to 
his  wife. 

Mr.  Reynolds  and  Mr.  Middleton,  who  left  their 
river  to-day,  came  on  board,  and  had  lunch  before  em- 
barking for  Quebec.  Mr.  Reynolds  gave  us  his  score, 
which  I  copy  for  the  sake  of  those  it  may  concern  :— 


Salmon-Fishing  on  the  York  River,  1876, 

Salmon        Ihs. 
His  Excellency        ....      8 

Lady  nufTerin a 

C.ipt.iin  Hamilton  .  .  .  ,  fi 
Mr.  Molson  •  ....  14 
Mr.  Mitlcllcton        .        ,        ,        .50 

Mr.  Reynolds 29 

Mr.  Grant i 


»97 

45 

US 

326 

1,094 

37 


Average 

24* 

24J 
23? 
2lJil 
31}} 

37 


Total        ,   110    a,47o 
General  average,  about  32^  lbs. 

We  are  rather  afraid  that,  now  we  have  come  down, 
our  fish  have  g..ne  up  the  river. 

Saturday,  131/1,— \  went  up  the  river  with  D.  and 
Fred  to  ra^ch  trout.     D.  was  very  anxious  to  make  up 


f   \ 


CH.  XIV 

ere  very  deep, 
f  all  descrip- 
h  till  he  was 
er  are  smaller 
y  strong  and 
the  line,  and 
:ould  scarcely 
salmon,  and  I 

Ihis  morning, 
ice  old  man, 
life.  He  re- 
th  a  twenty- 
c  sent  off  to 

10  left  their 
h  before  em- 
us his  score, 
oncern  : — 


Average 
34* 

'41 

ailt 

a; 


come  down, 

I'lth  D.    and 
to  {fiakc  up 


July  1876 


ARCHIE'S  BIRTHDAY. 


255 


gnlse      When   we  returned   to   the  ship  we  dined,  said 
good-by  to  all  the  men,  and  started  for  Tadousac 

Monday  ijtft^-W^  were  in  sight  of  Tadousac  about 
one  o  clock,  and  immediately  shrieked  from  our  steam- 
wh.stle  to  report  ourselves  to  the  children.  They  came 
down  to  the  beach  to  meet  us. 

Tuesday,  /^V/;.-_We  keep  Archie's  birthday  to-day,  so 

a  haycart,  a  buck-board,  and  a  horse  were  ordered,  and 

.  and  I,  hve  children,  and   Mademoiselle  packed  into 

the  cart.     Archie  rode,  and  Fred,  Mr.   Dixon,  and  the 

provisions  came  in   the   buck-board.      We   drove   to  a 

place  where  there  is  a  small  waterfall  and  a  mill,  hmched 

there,  stayed  till  it  was  time  for  a  cup  of  tea,  and  th.n 

mounted  our  carts  and  drove 'Tound  the  Concession." 

i  he  buck-board  broke  down,  and  we  had  to  borrow  a 

cart.     As  the  road  home  was  very  rough,  the  fun  of  the 

expedition  consisted  chiefly  in  the  fearful  bumps  we  got ! 

All  our  plates  and  cups  were  smashed,  and  I  felt  much 


*  York  Rii\-r, 

H.    ^  Salmon 

IS  hxccllency g 

Lady  Dufferin [       j 

Captain  Hamilton (^ 

Total        .        .16 
Averagi',  i:^\  ll,s. 

St.  John. 

His  Excellency .^^ 

Caplnin  Hamilton ,, 

Lady  DiiHcrin        •....'.'  4 

Our  Captain ....                *  , 

Total        J         ,  ,jQ 
Average,  I7,«g  lb». 


lbs. 

11)7 

•15 

148 

3yo 


546 
217 

53 
30 

836 


w: 


*f  flj 


2;r) 


MV  CANADlA.y  JOURNAL. 


CH,  XIV 


IM 


bruised  and  shaken ;    but  th^  children   enjoyed   it   im- 
mensely. 

Thursday,  20///.— We  left  Tadousac  to-day,  and  had 
to  say  goou-by  to  Archie,  who  now  goes  to  school  in 
England— so  the  first  break  in  our  home  circle  is  made 
Parting  with  him  took  off  rather  from  the  distress  of 
parting  with  the  others ;  though  even  from  them  we 
shall  be  away  some  time.  We  left  in  a  great  shower  and 
thunderstorm,  and  had  to  anchor  some  hours  in  a  fog. 

Ottawa:  .1/t>//^av,  2.////.— Delighted  to  get  to  Rideau 
in  the  evening.  Found  the  weather  cool  enough  for 
fires. 

25th-2gth.—T)^^  week  has  been  spent  in  arranging 
for  our  departure  for  the  Grand  Tour.     A  great  differ- 
ence of  opinion  e.xists  as  to  what  we  shall  want  at  route 
Some  say  take  provisions,  others  say  don't      We  de- 
cided, however,  in  the  first  place,  to  have  a  box  made 
to  hold  plates,  cups  and  saucers,  knives  and  forks,  tea, 
salt,   etc.     Then  we  take   cases  of  preserved   meats,  a 
basket  of  eggs,  some  butter,  Devonshire  cream,  and  ja'm 
and  we  have  a  refrigerator  in  our  baggage-car.     So  we 
sha  n  t  starve,  as  we  can  add  our  own  delicacies  to  the 
tough  antelope  steaks  we  are  to  get  on  the  way. 

Mr.  Reynolds  has  taken  the  greatest  pains  about  our 
comfort  in  the  railway  carriages.  Fred  Ward  arrived 
Saturday  night,  so  we  are  now  ready  for  our  departure 


CHAPTER   XV. 

ACROSS  THE  CONXm.NT  ANO  A.ON.  T„  P.CP.C  COAST. 

Grand"'S/"-''-"'f~/  ""^  ""=8'"  "7  accoune  of  this 

::  ■:^;':o';f ::r'' -r-'^  "■"^''- '  "^^^^^^^^ 

amta  to  De  put  to  our  piles  of  lusr^raee  -i  hlr>.v  f.u 
UDon  us     Dr  r'-n^t      11    .       .  "ft>t.'*b<-.  'I  oiow  feu 

upon  us     jjr.  Grant  called  to  inform  me  that  Mr^  1  ifM 

I  went  over  to  see  her,  and  found  her  dreadfidlv  di« 
appomted,  but  a  little  comforted  by  the  f    n     ^^^^n 
.".  us  when  she  recovers.     To  me.^^^^^J:^^; 
as  a  party,  she  is  a  great  loss-she  is  alway    so  cheV 
and  so  ready  to  enjoy  everything;  ^  '''^' 

(nends  wl,„  c.-,mc  to  wish  us  "  rooj.by  ■•    fv,  h"      '^ 
whole  rull,„a„  ,0  ourselves,..,,,,  L  '    'nwin'rooJ:'." 

r.  t.,r,.r'^'ii  ^t't  """■•'■  -"-  "•"■''-'■» 

ton's    ,„  I  "^^        ''  '""''^  "'■■•'''  '"''"i's  Mrs.  I.ilile. 


>(!.,!:  ■ 


li.I 


258 


M  V  CA  NA  DIA  N  JO  URXA  L. 


CH.  XV 


live  in  it  by  day,  when  the  top  berths  shut  up  and  dis- 
appear, and  the  under  beds  turn  into  seats  for  four. 

At  Prescott  we  lunched  in  the  station,  and  then  re- 
turned to  our  "  house-upon-wheels,"  and  really  began  to 
live  the  life  that  is  to  be  ours  for  seven  days.  Here  I 
was  introduced  to  the  American  reporter,  a  very  nice 
young  man,  who  comes  with  us  to  give  an  account  of 
our  tour  in  one  of  the  New  York  papers.  During  the 
day  he  became  so  enthusiastic  over  the  delightful  pros- 
pect before  us,  that  he  made  known  to  me,  through 
Fred,  his  desire  to  invite  a  charming  young  lady  of  his 
acquaintance  to  share  his  enjoyment  of  the  trip,  assur- 
ing him  that,  if  only  I  would  lend  her  the  shelter  of  my 
name,  no  more  active  chaperonage  would  be  required 
of  me ;  and  that  her  mother — too  delicate  to  undertake 
such  a  journey  herself — would  be  perfectly  satisfied 
with  this  arrangement  for  her  daughter.  He  proposed, 
with  my  approval,  to  telegraph  at  once  and  to  arrange 
for  the  girl  to  join  our  special  train  at  some  station  on 
the  way. — Hard-hearted,  prim  Englishwoman  that  I  am, 
I  felt  obliged  to  discourage  the  scheme ! 

Our  next  amusement  was  our  five  o'clock  tea.  Mr. 
Reynolds  had  made  us  a  most  ingenious  "  portable 
kitchen,"  and  we  all  sat  and  watched  our  kettle  boil, 
and  were  extremely  particular  about  scalding  our  tea- 
pot, etc.  We  had  an  excellent  cup  of  tea,  in  spite  of  the 
watching  and  the  number  of  cooks ;  so  we  set  two 
proverbs  at  defiance  with  impunity. 

I  Have  a  comfortable  chair  (between  the  railway- 
couchos),  and  I  sat  in  it,  did  a  little  work,  read  and 
talked  till  eight,  when  we  reached  Coburg,  where  we 
had  supper  or  dinner,  whichever  you  like  to  call  it. 
The  evening  is  the  least  pleasant  part  of  the  day ;  the 
light  in  the  cars  is  not  sufficient  to  read  by,  and  we  do 
nut  always  feel  inclined  for  games. 


AUG.  1876 


CHICAGO. 


259 


fucsday  August  nt.-\S,.  ,,ept  pretty  well,  though 
often  awoke  for  a  moment  by  the  unusual  sounds  and 
shak.ngs.  Ue  crossed  in  our  train  to  the  American 
side  by  means  of  a  forry  opposite  Sarnia 

When  we  were  dressed,  and  our  carriage  turned  into 
Its  day  condition,  we  got  ready  our  breakfast ;  the  public 
had  theirs  at  Sarnia.  A  most  excellent  meal  we  had  • 
fresh-boiled  eggs,  which  Fred  Ward  supenntculed ;  tea." 
Mr.  Reynolds  s  home-made  bread,  our  own  butter  and 
Devonshire  cream,  potted  meat,  a  cold  chicken,  rasp- 
berries, and  jam!  We  enjoyed  it  all  vcrv  much,  which 
accounts  for  my  telling  you  so  much  about  it. 

We  were  so  warm  and  so  dusty  by  the  end  of  the  day 
that  the  sight  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  the  pleasant  fresh 
a.r  irom  It  as  we  passed  close  to  it  into  Chicago,  were 
very  delightful.  Crowds  of  people  were  bathmi.  and 
we  longed  to  join  them.  When  we  arrived  at  the  Palmer 
House  Hotel,  we  were  shown  into  the  most  gorgeous 
smte  of  rooms:  a  drawing-room  with  marble  statue" 
satin  curtains,  embroidered  chairs,  gold  and  carving  and 
P.ctures;  admmg-room  furnished  with  verv  prettv  ligh 

bath::::rrf\3:r:r'"^''^^v'^-^'^^'^^''"'- 

beds  in  it    f  ^  ""•  "■''''   ^'^'^   "'"liciue" 

beds  in  It,  for  a  dressmg-room.      ^\;  settled   iyto  these 
magnihcences  as  well  as  ^ve  could,  but  I  think  we  -atle 
agreed  with  my  maid,   who  said   that  at  the  end  of  a 

h^H     ^'^V'■"'    ""'    ^"^'    ""^    f^'^-'    '•■Hlinedto    be 
'  bothered  with  so  much  splendor - 

witJ^K^'l" ';  "'~'""^  ''""^  '''  ''■"^'■"•^'^  breakfasted 
t^.k  V'  r^"''"-^'"  ,,,,  ,,^.j,„^  Mr.  Palmer 
00k  a  tender  farewell  of  "  Mr.  and  Mrs."  Dufferin.  as 
I'e  called  us,  and  Mr.  Forrest  and  his  daughters  (old 
acquaintances)    also  saw  „s  off    and   T   ,s-v    J    \        \ 

to     Mr       Cf        T„U..       ....      ,..  '  '      '      ^^'*"    nninduccd 


to   Mr.   St.    John,    the    C.lobe    reporter.      Tl 


18 


le   Chica 


g« 


ii 

l! 

W 

■     :l 

i 

11 1 


260 


AfV  CANADIAN  JO  URXAL. 


CH.  XV 


ilrl 


morning  paper  speaks  of  me  as  "  Her  Royal  Nibess," 
and  says  that  I  do  not  wish  my  "  hubbie  to  go  and  see 
the  '  Nausty  '  man,"  Brigham  Young.  It  also  reports 
that  we  went  to  bed  early  to  "  save  gas,"  and  that  "  if  our 
money  holds  out  "  we  shall  go  to  the  Centennial. 

We  had  rather  a  pleasant  day:  it  was  less  dusty, 
some  of  the  country  very  rich  and  well  cultivated,  vine- 
yards to  be  seen,  and  nice  little  homesteads;  we  saw 
some  prairie  land,  and  in  the  evening  stood  outside  our 
car  to  cross  the  Mississippi.  There  is  a  beautifully  light 
bridge  over  it,  2,260  feet  long.  It  is  a  sensation  to  see 
this  river,  of  which  one  has  heard  so  much;  and  a  great 
river  can't  help  being  striking,  but  there  is  nothing 
grand  in  the  scenery  at  this  point. 

We  lunched  and  dined  at  stations,  Burlington  being 
the  principal  one  at  which  we  stopped.  After  dinner  we 
played  whist,  and  all  agreed  that  we  had  got  over  the 
day  very  well.  The  people  we  have  seen  traveling  so 
far  get  out  looking  very  dirty  and  crumpled,  and  one  is 
quite  tired  of  the  sight  of  brown  holland ;  every  one  is 
attired  in  it;  you  might  think  it  was  a  livery. 

Thursday,  3d.— Wit  had  a  very  bad  night—stopping 
so  constantly  it  was  almost  impossible  to  sleep— and  I 
was  not,  therefore,  in  good  condition  for  trying  the 
"  hotel  car,"  which  was  put  on.  There  seemed  to  be  an 
excellent  meal  provided;  but  the  room  was  hot,  and 
smelled  of  food,  and  I  longed  for  our  own  little  quiet 
breakfast. 

At  ten  we  reached  Omaha,  and  crossed  the  Missouri 
—such  an  extremely  mutldy  river,  it  excites  no  desire  to 
bathe  in  it.  Carriages  awaited  us  here,  and  we  drove  up 
to  our  hotel,  and  chose  our  rooms;  they  really  are  very 
good  for  this  last  point  of  civilization,  before  the  prairie 
begins. 

D.  and  I  took  a  drive  to  see  the  town,  and  we  sat  on 


AUO.I876  TIIE  PLATTE   VALLEY. 


,  and  v.-e  8.'»t  on 


261 
of  Omalia  arc  very  „e,v   ,vi,l    T,       """>:      "'<■■  ""'ee's 

an'::ti,^^^^^:;^'v^:-f;:"""-"i"^a„u„ad 

'!.  1  to  ,s,t   „,th   every  wimlow  „,,c!>,  an.l  vel  fresh 

Here.     »e  are  r,s,„g  all  .lay,  goi„K  sl„„ly  over  the 
Kocky  Mountains;  ,l,e  train  ,n„ves  at  an  easy  lor.  'f 

'y'Tir^r  '""""«'>"•  "■i">'  evervti;',r  We 
passed  throush  the  Watte  Valley,  the  rivr'  I'lat'e  run 
n.ns  at  some  distance  fron,  us  all  tiay.  The  ,  e  ,er  ii 
no  l,ea„t,r„l,  is  iutcrcstiu,.  a  srcat' sea  of  ,  ^'ry 
na  hut  w,tha„o„dsoil,a„d  ffiviu,.  one  an  extriordT 
roorinT..'"  "  ^^"""''"-"f  "-  country  and  o,  .l,e 
We  lunched  at  Fremont,  and  dined  at  .....nd  Island 

sTi::"^\'''T'""'f"'™""^'^'"''-'"'"i"'.^^^^^^ 

st.i  I..US.     My  Idea  ,s  that  it  is  excellent ;  the  renorters 
"■"1  my  n,aid  think  it  i,  disRus.ins.     This  di  fere  cc    , 

r;:;,:?^  7'*';"^r- » >■'"'  -'i-c  ^  n,:,;;  di 

tier,  jou  „.||  nnd  ,t  bad;  but  I  want  neither  meat  nor 
w.ue,  and  can  live  „„on  the  thiugs  winch  we  «et  Ud 

butter,  eggs,  fish,  an<l  ,ced  cream '-the  latter,  at  the 
most  unprom.sim-lookiug  stations,  rivals  Gunter,     We 


262 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL 


CII.  XV 


• 


generally  have  a  tal)le  restrved  for  us,  and  at  Fremont 
a  very  smart  negro,  with  a  beautiful  iieacock-feather 
fan,  brushed  the  flies  away  whih;  we  lunched. 

Saturday,  j/Z/.—We  slept  much  better  last  night,  and 
J  did  not  even  awake  when  we  were  stopped  l)y— the 
grasshoppers  !  They  get  on  the  rails,  and,  being  squashed 
there,  oil  them,  so  that  the  engine  can  scarcely  pull  the 
carriages  along,  as  the  wheels  don't  bite. 

When  we  did  awake,  we  found  ourselves  on  the 
Rocky  Plains,  a  delicious  wind  blowing,  and  not  bring- 
ing the  dust  to  us. 

I  got  out  at  the  station,  where  the  people  were  break- 
fastmg,  and  looked  about— a  scene  of  desolation  ;  and 
yet  when  we  look  back  from  the  train  it  does  not  appear 
so  desolate:  great  plains  of  dull-colored  grass,  broken 
up  by  rocky  mounds,  which  present  a  wiiite  api^earance 
to  the  eye;  in  fact,  a  part  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.    We 
have  risen  3,600  feet  since  we  left  Omaha,  and  I  suppose 
the  delicious  air  makes  everytliing  appear  amletir  de  rose. 
We  have  seen  flocks  of  cattle,  and  four  antelopes.     The 
curious  thing  is,  that  you  see  cattle  apparently  quite 
near,  but  on  consideration  you   realize   that  they  must 
be  very  far  away,  as  you  can  not  make  out  the  details; 
a  man  on  horseback  that  you  fancy  quite  clo.se,  looks 
like  a  stone  moving.     There  arc  no  trees  or  houses,  or 
any  object  by  which  to  judge  distances,  and  the  atmos- 
phere is  wonderfully  clear. 

This  is  very  like  being  at  sea:  the  wind  whistles 
round  the  car,  and  the  land  round  us  is  flat,  with  white- 
crested  waves  of  rocky  sandhills,  while  the  air  is  most 
exhilarating.  But  I  must  not,  under  its  into.Kicating  in- 
fluence, fill  up  my  journal  with  rhapsodies. 

We  lunched  at  Cheyenne,  and  were  met  there  by  the 
Governor  of  the  territory,  Mr.  'I'hayer.  There  is  a  large 
hotel  at   Cheyenne,  and  it  is  "quite  a  place."     After 


AfG.  1876 


TIIR  ALKALI  PLAIXS. 


263 


terest  of  tl.:  pla.n,  w.th  its  little  prairie  do^s  to  watch 
he  gophcrs-a  sort  of  .^round-s.purrel-and  an  occa 
sonal  antelope;  then  the  plain  broke  up  into  undulatnig 
h  lis  and  heaps  of  rock,  a  few  scattered  trees,  and  the 
magn.hcent  ran,.e  of  Rocky  Mountains,  with  patches  of 
snow  rehevMig  their  blueness,  in  the  distance.  Some  of 
t  .e  '.  heaps  of  rock  '■  look   like   ruined  castles,  foJtl  e 

b  oken  Altogether,  I  think  the  views  enchanting,  and 
I  breathe  the  a.r  w.th  pleasure.  At  Sherman  we  re:;ched 
our  h.ghest  point  (8,363  feet),  and  scon  after  leaving  it 
we  went  over  u  very  awful-looking  structure-a  sort  of 
skele  on  bridge,  w.th.n.t  a  parapet,  across  a  ravine 

Ihe  wmd,of  which  there  is  a  good  deal,  blew  off  the 
I'd  of  our  precious  kettle,  but  luckily  we  stopped  a  mo- 
ment after,  and  it  was  rescued. 

.SV/W<;v,  ^///.-The  scenery  early  in  the  dav  was  u-dy  • 
sandy,  desolate  plains-'' the  Artemisian  Desert,"  Tt  is' 
called,  or  "the  Alkali  Plains" 

Breakfast  and   lunch,  at   Evanston,  were  served  by 
John    Chuumen.-     They   wore   clean    white   blouses 
oose  blue  trouser.s,  and  stumpy  embroidered  shoes  the  ; 
long  p.gtads  twisted  round  their  heads  and  fastened  up 
T  e  r  He.ght,  the.r  dress,  their  ha.r,  and  their  singularly 
m.ld  expression,  make  tl.em  very  feminine  looking      It 
Evanston  there  were  some  very  Indian  Indians-hide- 
ous brown   squaws,  dressed  in  brilliant  rags,  waiting  at 
he  doors  of  the  railway  carriages  for  gifts  of  food  '  nd 

them      7  he  Colonel  set  up  a  coin  on  a  stick  for  them  to 

c  rk  off'/h  ttT"  ^f '  '"  "'^^'-     "^  ^'-  knocked  te 
cork  off  a  bottle  without  touching  the  bottle 

we  ler'ef '"!'".''  '°k'  f  '''*  ""''''  '^^^'"^  ^— '"" 
vvt  were  to  watch  with  "full  breath  and  anxious  heart" 


If 


fl 


264 


v'/r  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XV 


for  the  magnificent  scenery  now  about  to  burst  upon  us 
as  we  pass   through   the  Krlio  Canon,  or  valley       \c 
cordnioly,  we   sat  out  on  the  edge  of  our  baggage-car 
anu  if  we  were  a  little  disappointed  at  first,  by  the  even- 
ing we  were  well  pleased,  and   felt   that   we  had  really 
seen  a  most  curious  and  (part  of  it)  beautiful  place     We 
came  down  hill  through  the  valley,  starting  from  a  great 
upland  of  the    Uintah   Range  of  the  Rockv  Mountains 
I  he  railroad  seems  to  divide  the  countrv  into  two  parts 
for  on  one  side,  rising  imnicaiately  from  the  track    were 
green,  sloping  banks,  while  on  the  other  were  gi-antic 
hills  of  rough,  red  stone,  twisted  and  tilted  and  tumbled 
into   every   sort    of   strange  form-castles  and  pulpits 
monuments-all  kinds  of  devices  seemed  to  stand  before 
us.      We  remained   the    whole  afternoon   watching  the 
views  develop  as  we  passed  the  various  points  ;  the  beau- 
tiful part  was  when  we  distanced  the  details,  and  when 
the  green  and  the  re<l   and  the  curious  shapes  become  a 
broken  mountain  range,  opening  now  and  then  to  show 
us  miles  and  miles  of  mountain  and  plain  below. 

For  several  hours  we  had  a  little  stream  close  to  us, 
and  as  the  day  i)ecame  very  hot,  the  river  seemed  most 
refreshing,  ami  added  a  foreground  of  fresh  green  to 
the  magnificent  views  in  the  distance.  We  passed  the 
Tiir)usand  Mile  Tree— 1,000  miles  from  Omaha— and 
close  to  it  "the  Devil's  Slide,"  a  curious  geological 
formation  ;  two  natural  walls  of  rock  down  the  side  of  a 
'nil,  with  just  sufficient  room  between  them  for  "  Him  " 
to  slide  through. 

A  short  time  before  we  got  to  Ogden  we  came,  as  it 
were,  through  the  Rocky  Mountains,  passing  quite  close 
to  patches  of  snow,  and  looking  back  upon  a  very  much 
more  rocky  appearance  than  the  mountains  have  from 
the  other  side.  Now,  do  you  understand  that  from 
Omaha  the  country  gradually  slants  upward  towards 


^-  CH.  XV 

0  I)tirst  upon  us 
)r  valley.  Ac- 
^"'  bagjra|re.car, 
St,  by  the  even- 

wc  had  really 
^iful  place.  We 
ij(  from  a  jrreat 
:ky  iMoiiiitaiiis. 
into  two  |)arts, 
the  track,  were 

were  ffi^^rantic 
'(1  ami  tumbled 
-s  and  pulpits, 
:()  stand  before 

watciunjT  the 
iiits;  the  beau- 
ails,  and  when 
ijK's  become  a 

1  then  to  show 
below. 

in  close  to  us, 
seemed  most 
resh  jrreen  to 
^'c  passed  the 
Omaha — aud 
us  H:eol()gical 
I  the  side  of  a 
1  for  "  Him  " 

e  came,  as  it 
\^  quite  close 
a  very  much 
is  have  from 
id  that  from 
'ard  towards 


AUG.  1876 


on  D /CAT. 


265 

these   mountains,   and   tliat   the   railroad    mounts   to    . 
KMght  of  8  34.  feet,  after  winch  it  suddenlv  desce  ids' 
l^u  you  realue  that  now  the  nvers  How  thj  oth  "  t' 
and  that  we  have  crossed  the  (Jreat  Ran;;e  '  ^' 

An    .American   j^eneral   came   to   have   tea,  or  rather 
ced  water  ,n  our  car,  and  stayed  till  ue  reached  O.^den 
\      part    ron;  our   car  and   our   two  conductors  Iiere" 
1    e  ,a,ard  (as  we  should  say  in  ICn.huid)  and  the  port^- 
-by  name  and   by   nature   Mr.    llrown-belon,.  to  th 
part.cular  Pullman,  and  have  been  most  attentrve    o 
on    he  way;  but  the  lines  of  railroad  chan^.       ,,,  .„ 'J 
we  have  to  j;et  into  another  car. 

We  had  arran,.ed  to  sleep  at  O.^den,  and  on  arriving. 

fully  hot,  for  the  weather  ,s  very  warm.     The  village  is 

:usrTh;":''''^M^'"^'"^'''^^^^^''«'^^ '••'•---'- 

"'"sc         his  is  on  the  way  to  Salt   J.ake  Citv   and  this 

Pbce.  almost  full  <.fA...nuuis;  so,  of  course.\;C   Fed 
and  I  took  a  bttle  walk,  we  fancied  every  two  won  • 
we  saw  together  were  collea.ue-wives,  and  ev     y    ,    s 

:x:;rf;:::;;r^^^-^"^'^'----^--^'-^ 

roon^"?''  ^''r''"  '''''  ^^"■^>- ''"-  •''-'  --'-V  ..four 
roon     open,  and  so  .spent  a  tolerably  cool  ni.ht. 

A     t lie  ,„,rmn,.  we  sat  on  the  platform  of  the  station 

Oi.r  .Irivor  tavo   „s  m,„l,  i„f„rm.-,tion   ,•,,  ,v,.  „,.nt 
"l""K.  sh.nv.,!  „s  ,1„.  I,„„s.  .,f  ,,  hisl,„p  „,,„  „„.       .     ' 


ise 


le 

'Rh 


ved  JJriirh.i 


111  \' 


»<'und  that  the  Prophet  had 


'"5^.     'I'he  A 


if  ■■' 


■I'l '  • 
m  4 


mLTicaii 


married  a  relation  of  his,  for 


266 


A/y  CAXADIAX  JOVNXAL. 


CH.  XV 


on  hearing  his  name,  and  where  he  came  from,  lirigham 
Younj;  saiil:  "Oh,  I  nuisl  have  married  your  father's 
sister,  but  1  had  forgotten  all  about  the  family."  This 
reporter  thinks  no  name  bad  enough  to  apply  to  his  new 
relation. 

Ogden  has  no  time  of  its  own,  but  keeps  "  Kast '* 
time  for  one  train,  and  "  West  "  time  for  the  other.  A 
perpetual  sum  of  mental  arilhmetie  goes  on,  and  \vc 
were  constantly  forgetting  by  which  time  we  ought  to 
go,  and  trying  to  remember  whether  the  "left-hand 
clock  ■'  or  the  "  right-hand  clock  "  was  ours. 

We  left  in  the  evening,  and  found  our  new  carriage 
very  comfortal)le,  though  it  has  (mly  one  "  drawing- 
room."  We  sat  at  the  end  of  it— the  last  of  the  whole 
train— and  passed  by  moonlight  along  the  banks  of  the 

Salt  Lake. 

Tuesday,  Sll.  —We  are  going  through  the  Alkali 
riains.  and  the  dust  is  dreadful  :  a  large,  rt)ugh  dust 
covering  everything  in  a  second,  and  very  iiainful  to  the 
eyes.  As  I  write  this  my  paper  is  like  a  jiloweil  field, 
and,  the  wind  being  very  high,  one  can  only  see  a  few 
yards  for  the  clouds  that  surround  the  carriage. 

'I"he  only  thing  that  grows  on  these  .plains  is  sage, 
and  a  "  sage-bush  "  here  is  tlie  worst  name  one  can  apply 
to  anv  vegetable  growth. 

UWiiesi/(n\(^t/i.—\\'e.  got  up  at  six  this  morning  in 
California,  the  sandy  desert  changing  into  a  mountain- 
ous district  covered  with  i)ine  and  oak,  parts  of  it  laid 
bare  like  a  great  tpiarry  by  the  mining  for  gold.  As 
one  looks  l)ack  niion  the  country  through  which  one  has 
juHt  passed,  it  seems  perfectly  impossibl  that  the  rail- 
way should  really  have  made  its  way  through  such  ste«'p 
and  perpendicular  rocks,  whidi  sectn  more  I'ltteil  for  the 
^\|ni5,^  ,j;>v<'U'r  with  his  helpful  stick  than  fur  an  immense 
long  train  like  ours. 


2eps  "  Kast " 
lie  other.  A 
on,  and  \vc 
\vc  ou^ht  to 
.■    "  left-hand 

'S. 

new  carriage 
le  "  (h'awing- 
of  the  whole 
banks  of  the 


is  mnrninjj  in 
I  a  monntain- 
irts  of  it  laid 
for  KoU].  As 
whicli  one  has 

that  the  rail- 
ijrh  such  steep 

fitted  for  the 
"or  an  immense 


AIT,.  1876 


'ROCXD/.\G   CAPE  //OA'X. 


267 


'Ih 
Tliere 


«-'    point    of    interest 


IS 


IS 


;»   "p;»th   "  just   wid 


roiiiuiinj;    Cajie    Horn. 


e   eiioii'di   fnr  th 


round  a  precipitous  rock,  and  one  lo.,k^ 
upon  the  valley  far   heiieatii.     '11 
find  the  skeleton  bridj^c 
can  see  throuj-h  them,  and  tliey  niak 


e'   railway 


s  strai^^ht  down 
"^  is   very    t'lm.-   but    I 


s  very  tryinjr  t„  the  ner 


m.i,^  sides,  and  are 


from    the    ;^rn,iin(l.     Xowell 


so   very   weak-look 


ves  ;  one 
e  no  attempt  at  hav- 


m^,  and   so   hij^di 


wh 


en  he  kept  sayiny 


expressed    our   sentiments 


HkIu  bridj,M 
"  A  ver 
Th 


y  K'ood 


"  A  \ 

bridgt 


,  as  we  went  over  the  last 


ery  weak  brid 


Re, 


W 


very 


e  are  over  it. 


c  country  now  be,t,nns  to  look  rich  and  park-iik 


and   at    the    stat 
offered  to  us  at  t 
'I"he   Colonel 


"•ns    the    most    en( 
wo])ence  ajiiece. 
w 


P 
•  rmous   i)eaches  are 


as  talkin;;  to  a  cert 


train  yesterday,  and  we  hear  that  tl 


man  has  been  arrested  fo 
fi 


im  man  on  the 
lis  morning  the  .said 


r  murder.     He  and  otl 


re  to  Chinese  establishment,  and  shot  th 


lers  set 


pie  as  they  came  out.    'II 


e  wretched  peo- 


le murdered  were"onlv"CI 


so  It  is  supposed  that  a  small  bribe  will  get  tl 


nnese, 


le  assassins 


We  lunrhed,  very  badly,  at  (>)lfa.x,  where  tl 
grizzly  bear  at  the  station,  and  then  returned  t 


figes   for   a    hot,  dusty  afternoon.     11 
that  our  long  journey— of  nine  days— wa 
and   packed   up  the    things    i 
ready  for  our  arrival  at  San  !• 


lere  was  a 

o  our  car- 

owever,  we  felt 

s  near  its  end. 


n    our   "  liouse-on-wheelt 


Mr.s.  Littleton  tel 


rancisco. 


1  am 


so  so 


rry. 


egraphs  that  she  can't  come  at  all. 


Having  washed  off  the  dust,  am!  made  oursel 


smart  as  possible,  we  prepare  to  "land  "  at 
tion  called  Oak  lands.     Captain  Chat  field,  tl 


ves  as 
a  small  sta- 
le captain  of 


H.  M.S    7,;,.//,,,/,  Mr.  Hooker,  the  Kngli'sh  C,.nsul';  and 
Mr.  ^^alkem,a  Untish  ColumhinM,  c;,me  "on  board,"  and 

e  got   into  a  large  ferry. 


escorted  us  to  our  hotel. 


W 


2G8 


MY  CAXADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CIl.   XV 


steamer,  which  took  us  over  to  San  Francisco.  Our  ho- 
tel is  the  "  I'alace,"  and  is  enormous  ;  it  is  built  round  a 
court,  which,  by  the  way,  is  loaded  with  American  flags; 
there  must  be  at  least  five  hundred  of  them  hunj;^  about. 
Our  rooms  are  very  nice,  smart  and  clean.  We  took  a 
walk  while  our  baifjj^ajfe  was  beiiifj  brou},dit  uj),  and  looked 
at  some  shop-windows  ;  but  oh  I  it  was  so  cold.  1  had 
on  my  lij>;ht  "  train  "  jfarments,  and  the  wind  blew  throuj,di 
and  throujrli  me.     I    saw  many  ladies  in  furs,  and  have 

now  ordered  out   mine.     The  climate  is  treacherous 

that  is  to  say,  that  of  San  Francisco,  for  it  is  a  promon- 
tory, and  its  climate  is  ililTerent  from  the  rest  of  Califor- 
nia. Wo  went  home  after  seeing  some  second-rate  shops 
and  quantities  of  Chinamen.  We  shall  not  be  able  to  visit 
the  Cliinese  ([uarter  on  this  occasi(;n,  as  the  small-pox  is 
very  bad  tiiere. 

(Captain  Chatfield,  who  has  kindly  made  every  ar- 
rangement for  our  comfort  on  boartl  tiie  Amethyst,  dined 
with  us,  and  we  went  to  the  play,  and  saw  the  "  Oeneva 
Cross."  The  theatre  is  a  very  good  one,  and  we  enj()>ed 
the  play;  though  I,  at  any  rate,  began  to  feel  the  effects 
of  having  risen  at  six  and  traveled  day  and  night  for 
many  days. 

IVuirsJay,  loth. — Breakfasted  in  the  enormous  dining- 
room,  and  were  very  glad  of  a  fire  in  our  sitting-room. 
Received  visits  from  Mr.  Bradford,  the  artist  ;  Captain 
Chatfield  ;  and  a  lovely  basket  of  flowers,  with  "  Wel- 
come to  California,"  from  an  ok!  Nortli  of  Ireland 
friend. 

At  one  o'clock  1).  and  1,  the  Colonel  and  i'rcd  Ward, 
drove  off  to  see  the  sights.  We  went  to  Woodward's 
Oardens  to  see  the  sea-lions  fed,  but  were  too  late  for 
this,  and  so,  after  looking  at  an  aquarium,  we  resolved 
to  go  at  once  to  the  ClilT  House.  This  is  a  hotel  over- 
hangintr  the  Pacific,  and  js  a  great  resort  uf  the  peo[)le 


AUG.   1876 


s-'i-y  fA'Axasco. 


169 


here       1  o  ^ret  to  u  you  drive  thr„i„.|,  the  P-irl.  , 

which  has  been  reclaimed  from  h  ^1  '     •'^'''" 

"f   the    orimnal    deserf    U  '  ,  -'""'-''eap,  specimens 

^-•ery  morsel  f  eut  ,.'  /'^  ""^^''^"  ""  ^"  -!-• 
beautiful  road  has  i  m  t,  '"''V"^'^^'^^'  ^"  ^'--  «Pot ;  a 
arc  actually  growi  "  , ^  ■  '  "^'  ''''^^''^  ^'^^^  ^-ass 
'balcony   of    the    C   ff  ""l^'--"'sin,^  place.     The 

0-n.lchanmu^''\:;:::'-^-;;-';;^-e..c.hc 
jr-at  rocky  islands,  upon  which  .^^^^l'''''''' 
t"e  sun,  and  pelicans  stand  combin,.         t      r  f e    ,?'  '" 

I  counted  seventy-one  sea-lions  f,  *'''• 

some  were  dry,  and  of   •.   n ■  1  '  '"""  '''  ^•'"■^'J 

-re  still  wct'iookLr^mtr . :"  ^f  ^'  "'r^  "-'^'^^ 

very  like  tiKU  of  luun.  s  in     t^^^^^^^^^ 

ann.sin,  to  watch  them  climbmi;;;^-^"-^ 
">.',^  "1  and  out  of  the  sea  an,l  1' '''"^"^f^N  J"mp- 
fe^enerally.      The  pelicans    f'  '"•'"^■'"^'   them.selves 

takin,  headers  in/T  h!  iu  :"'  t^"  "^'"^  i''^-^  -^' 
clistance,  wluch  prevcm  J  our  s  "'1  '  '''''^"  '"  ^''« 
^Vc    lunched    at     his     u,  .  1  "^^  '''^'  '^'"^   ^'^w. 

oysters,  "Porter-^  so  :t'    "!:••"    f   -'^"-^-'    fare: 

'^ii^andevervwh    e         ::::;:'';'^''"^'--'eofa 
""r  drixer  "  beat  -  do    n  t  c\      '■'  ''""'^  '"■"■'^'  ^^^^ 

to  side  all     he   va        Mr'V;    '''r'''^"'"^^'^'-«-^<^ 
wood,  and  have     nrdi  ,  "  '""^^'^  *''^'-"  ''""t  of 

arcunulmills  for  pul  ^'^^^         P-c  sand,  and  there 

- -twelve  of  thi:rtr;r;;;n::  :;->-•- 

One  curious  thinir  here   i«  -         ^/"•^/•''- 
tlio  top  „f  ||,„  ..ill  „,,,  ,      ■.    ,'"""  '»  'I"  I'liKMic  „n 

« ...v.»i:.:e  >his  „„.,,,,,,,.,  „,„,  :  ^;  ;,;;^'-"P« 

liaa  an  odd  effect  carnages 


Jl 


ii 


270 


^fy  CAXADJAX  JOURXAL. 


cn.  XV 


(.cncral  McDowell,  the  hero  „f  I5ull  Run,  dined  with 
us,  and  we  took  liini  to  a  special  i)erformance  of  "  lirass  " 
in  our  honor.  We  had  a  ^^ood  box,  and  enjoved  that 
very  ridiculous  i)lay. 

iX  and  I  took  a  walk,  and  on  our  return  we  found  a 
most   stanch    old    man    fr.nn    Killvleagh.       He    is  con- 
nected with  both  our  families,  having  been  called  Hans 
after  D.'s  grandfather,  and  having  been  taken  on  board 
my  grandfather's  ship  when  he  was  thirteen.     It  is  ex- 
traordmary  how  he  remembers  everybody  of  that  day— 
the  very  old  times.     Me  put  me  tNrough  such  an  examina- 
tion as  to  my  great-aunts,  uncles,  and  cousins,  that  1  felt 
some  self-satisfaction  at  having  passed  it.     He  thought 
me  like  my  family,  but  said  the  ancestors  did  not  come 
out  so  clearly  in  Fred. 

This  man  has  been  mining  for  forty-five  years,  and 
now  declares  that  he  is  going  back  to  the  "old  place" 
to  buy  a  little  property  and  die  there.  I  dare  say  "  going 
Home"  IS  a  dream  of  his,  and  that  he  expects  to  start 
by  every  steamer;  but  the  gold-fever  is  difhcult  to 
shake  olf,  and,  even  if  lie  does  go,  I  fear  matter-of- 
fact  killylaugh  will  be  dull  after  years  of  Californian 
gambling. 

This  interview  ended,  we  had  to  begin  to  prepare  for 
departure.     The  gentlemen   had  to  get   into  their  uni- 
forms, and  there  was  great    agitation  over   a  missing 
bit  of  uniform,  and  a  frantic  rush  to  the  tailor  to  make 
HI)  the  deticiency.      We  breathed    again,  and  were   all 
gloved,  booted,  and  spurred,  the   luggage  and  servants 
gone,  when  I  peeped  into  His  Kx.'s  room,  and  discovered 
an  enormous  bath-sponge  unpacked  !     Fred  and  1  were 
m  despair  over  it ;    we    ungloved,    and    wrung  it,  and 
scjueezcd  it,  and  reduced  it  to  its  smallest  possible  com- 
pass, and  then  we  did   not  know  what  to  do  with  it. 
Could   I   in  state,  could  he  in  uniform,  carry  a  vulgar 


AUG.   1S76 


"'   -'/.    ^V.   AMETHYST. 


271 


sponge  np  into  .,J.;t;r      rC^^^^^^^^^         '■-""- 
and  carry  it  so-  "I,  m;„l„    ,        """>"'«■  s  lur  mat, 

i^  i«ing  nrcci  ••: ..  r,f„„t'. ",.;""  ^'"'  ^^  "'^'  •'""■■-^ 

"f  ••".  emiuy  c,a.    b  t!,H  ^ '''"'">■'"'■""■•  ^'■■"' 

find  for  it?"  '•  ""'"  ''""■■'■  1""™  can  we 

wither  i;™,Lr;;  ";■; ;;;;;;'-'  ■"-• -^  --0  «,isfied 

ruler  of  tie  Canadi-.n    i^       •    •  ""t  the  dcNpotic 

"'«l-furc„atat,,a„d;a„dX    ,      r™:;"'^'''''' 
to  a  vulvar  newspaper  parcel      I,  ,  """"" 

"'  Hie  fur  cat  a      „v  r      ",,  '"■■'"  ""^  -''eltcr 

re<:eive,l  with  rj  p  "t^T  "''■■''""  '"  ""'  '"'"'•  ""» 

'-I  With  care  b  .X  /.ctir"™'""  '"  "-'-".  was 
war  hoat,  and  was  ur  t  ,e  "r"''"^  """^'  '"""-"f- 
^hip  l.y  one  „f  hi  Xs  „  ""•'  '""  >"-"«c  ,„  the 
leave  it  lying  .nnocentiy-,'^;:":;,';,"';"  "T"'"  '" 
lency  stepped  .,„  b,,ard  .l,i  Z  I  ""  "''  '■•"='" 

veyed  to  the  proper  ..nar^c;:;;  '^     f'^,™ '\;"^ .- 

seamen.  ^  ^  ^'<-'    -Majesty  s 

^Ve  sent  two  nieii-sprvnnfc         ■ 

-  the  party  on  b.::c™:X.V'"'''r^^''"^^' 
I.  Colonel  Littleton,  the  Vn.Z^T'''  "  "" 
maid),  and  "John.-  '   '^''-^^  ''^ ''-'-bander  *  (n,y 

The  captain  has  talcon  -i  i...        i 
clivided  it  into  two      f        J'^'  '''^■^""■''  '"-^  ^■•■""•>'.  and 


Is 


2/2 


^/y  CAXADIAX  JOURXAL. 


cir.  XV 

an  ecuilateral  triangle,  that  a  small  angle  at  the  top  or 
Po  "t  ,s  my  mauls  room,  and  that  1).  and  I,  two  ron 
beds,  and  a  large  chest  of  drawers,  inhabit  t  e  bas  of 
he  saui  triangle.  Captain  Chatf.eld  has  been  m  kind 
n  makmg  everything  n.ce-pictnres  on  the  walls,  mu 
-vered  dressu,g-table,  etc.     We  remain  at  an  ho       i| 

mvS!^"''f  •"""'  """^^  ^""^^^^'^^  the  spirit  of 
n^  ream  i  U  appears  to  me  that  the  raciHc  is  i  nasty 
ocean.  I  g.,.  on  deck,  and  lie  and  sit  and  do.e  all  day  • 
the  men  ,ook  pale,  and  are  not  in  good  spirits  ^  ' 

than?'- ■'    ^V"   '''''''  ''  ^^'^'^  -  »-^i-  "c-ean 

ami    he     aptam  s  cabn.  the  least  nice  ,)lace  one  could 

I  '-bly  be  m      The  screw  thumps  and  vibrates  direc  ly 

nder  U.  and  the  pitching  is  longer,  and  in  it  one  has  to 

air  wh>ch  IS  so  very  trymg  to  the  inner  man 

JAW..r,  /^//;._Got  on  deck,  and  lay  in  a  cot  swung 
under  a  tent  of  Hags;  every  one  better,  but  not  we  1^ 

mys       h!:^  r,:Tf  •     '  l'^'''  ^--^  ^^"^  -^y  >'>-  about 
myself,  had  I  not  heard  the  Captain  say  that  we  "  shipped 

ffreen  seas     nearly  the  whole  wav  over;  so  I  feel  tl    t  I 

bad  a  r,ght  to  be  ill.     Mexande^  got  ;erv  n.t     ^  e 

by    he  screw  and   I  awoke  in  the  night  to'hear  her  cry 

"U  the  t  aptam  s  cabm.  1).  h,lped  her  in  there  and 
asjhe  (..pta  n  ciid  not  awake,  she  lay  herself  down  n 
tlie  door  under  his  cot  and  slept. 

rurs,/av,  /,-///.-Things  look  better.  I  dress  and  sit 
down  a,,  eat,  and  soon  begin  to  walk,  and!  L'k 
abou  w,th  pleasure.  We  coast  all  the  wav,  and  the  e 
a.e  strange,  dangerous,   isolated   rocks  sticking  up  oil 


AUG.  1876 


ESQUIMAULT. 


^71 


of  tlic  sea.      A  linn  f  ti,- 

miles)  betivcc.   V„,  ''  "'"'■■""'  '^^''"""el  (ten 

capped  ra„j-e  of  moi^'a!,:'  '  "'  '  ^'""'"'''  — 

l.as  no,  arrive.,,  and      ^  ayt"  a::..'";' '";'"  "^""'^■' 
sooner  than  we  were  o.vpeald  '"''"'>-'">"•  '"".rs 

l™t  very  deep     ,"  ,     '1      '  '*'""""  "'■"■'>'"-.  >ery  small, 

Pressed  with  :,;'„:;:: ;"," '"'""'  ""^  ""■"■  ^""-'y 

monntains  in  tht  ,  is  an  .,  ■"""  ""  '"'"'■  ""'""'^'1 

■I'he  eirlvn        "''"'"''■  '■■I'armnig  weather. 

."ai.  -eanterwhSch"^,;,  :.;;;:-•'>■  '""  """«  <>- 
sl>e  arrived  with  ,n,r  servn'  •  ''"""'■'•.  at  twelve 

"Hon.  I, Nowei,  d tirHr'c''",?.;:;"-;-:'-" ^' ""-■ 

to  His  E.vcelle„cv  •■  ,,,',  ■,''•'"''•■■ '^''''••''•■le-tamp 
should  have  dmel  I  ' r  *'  '"''  ""'"'''  I"-*',  as  they 
ceivetl  „y  thetL'e'ei';;""-^'  '"''  """"■  '-"  "'"'  - 

wcn?.7ro,;:b:':;' ;;.;,i';"^'"r,;'' '''"■'"""'"■«-« 

-..e.ashort-"-;^:--:;j-.a„d 

■'■-•arria,et':,,;:;:\:a  •■;:'i;;'„t''::'^":' «"' ■"'" 

«:rew  into  an  enormnnw   „  ^ 'ct„na.     We 

^'^at  city  (it  i    t      In  r   ^"T^^T   '^^•'"'■^  ^^'^^  ^-^-''^'i 
J    ""Iff  I's.     At   one  p„nu  aion;,^  the  route 


drcssej  arciicr.s,  siicli 


lit  from  the  wood 


a  party  of  ma-nifiecntiy- 


^is  you  have  /w/ seen 


off  th 


le  St 


age; 


274 


A/y  CW'ADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XV 


green-feathered  hats,  green  velvet  coats,  breeches,  b,V 
boots,  bows,  arrows-really  very  handsome-looking  peo- 
l^Ie.     They  formed  an  escort  tlie  rest  of  the  way      Far 
ther  on  we  picked  up  a  band  of  horsemen  with'red  rib 
bons  across  their  breasts-a  company  in  green-bands 
-some  mihtia-an  army  of  small   boys,  each  carryin.^r  ^ 
bright-colored  flag-my  "body-guard."     The  men  who 
wore  the  colored  sashes  saluted  in  a  curious  fashion    bv 
puttmg  the   hand   to    the   mouth.      \Vc  went   over   'two 
bridges,  both  ornamented   with  green  and  with  various 
flags  and  devices,  whence  we  saw  a  number  of  the  Indian 
canoe.s,  winch  here  are  shaped  like  gondolas,  full  of  peo- 
ple  and  covered  with  flags;  the  Indians  were  singin.r 
and  we  were  sorry  we  could  not   stop  to  look  at  them 
longer  and  to  see  them  nearer. 

Then  we  passed  through  the  Chinese  quarter  of  the 
town   and  saw  a  number  of  the  men  and  a  i^^^  of  the 
very  funny  little  women.    The  Chinese  put  up  their  own 
arches,  and  they  were  very  prettily  desij^ned  ;  thev  hung 
up  lanterns  in  some,  and  on  one  there  was  quite  a  house 
ful   of  httle  .mages.     When  we  entered  Victoria  there 
was  an  address.     U  replied  from  tiie  carriage.    At  pres- 
ent the  feeling  here  is  British,  but  anti-Canadian,  on  ac 
count  of  the  railroad,  which  can't  be  made  yet ;  .so  it  is 
not   all  plain  sailing.     We  were   told  that  on  one  arch 
here  was  written,  "Our  Railroad  or  Separation."     The 
Governor-General  was  obli.ired  to  refuse  to  ,,.o  imder  it, 
though  he  said  he  would  do  so  if  the  "  S  "  were  turned 
into  an  "R";  and  one  man  who  found  we  were  makinr. 
a  turn  to  avoid  the  street  with  the  obnoxious  arch  jumped 
about  as  If  he  were  mad,  and  when  he  met  us  above  the 
arch  he  jumped  again,  and  shrieked,  "Three  groans  for 
Mackenzie  I  " 

I  think  every  one  of  the  5.000  inhabitants  of  Vic- 
toria must  have  been  out  in  the  streets,  and  we  drove 


AUG.  1876 


VICTORIA. 


275 


at  a  foot's  nace  to  fiw.  r- 

been   lent  to   u.  a;""'"'''""?^  """-'* -'^ch  has 

two  hours  and  a  ,',f     "^  ^"^  "^'^  "^-■'■^" '  ''-  ^'-c  lasted 

cessK,n'pasIed''lKn)'t'  l"^""''  '''  ''""^  ^''^"^  ^^e  r,ro- 

reception  of  him      •      ,'  ;  ;'?*"^^  ^'^^'"  ^'"-  ^hcr 

looked  about.     'I'he'ho  s.   i  ''''■^■^".''>'  ^^'^''^  ^^<'"^%  and  ue 

bniiard-roon,  and  excelle,u\:r    Jr'Tr'"'  '^^^^ 
nese  cook,  who  is   I  <rriev,^  t,  ,'         "-  ''''''^  ''  <-"hi- 

cooked  for  six  vl,:^  V^  ^^'  '''''''^^'^^-^^Z 
'--'lystvle;AlS^^^^^^^^^^ 

comfortable  ort  of  L  s  '  "'""  '"""  ^  '^^'^  ^^  --y 
Chinaman  under  her  r  I^!";'  ''  '"''''"'^'^'  -^"  ^ 
'"an,  and  a  gardenerJh  t  r  '.''  '''''"'''  '  ^o^^^-'- 

to-day  that  I  will  ,;,;'.  V'  ''  '"  "'"'^'^  ^"  "^"^^ 
were  verv  tired  a  it'  ^'^T"'^'""  ^'-"^-'-"w.  ^\'c 
to  bed.     '  "'^'^^'  ^"^'  ^^-^'-^   ^^l-d    to  go   early 

In  the  evening  the  Chinese  quarter  of  fh.  . 
'"ummated,  and  all   their  houses  ''"  ^'^" 

went  in  just  as  they  lik.^     •  '  "''"""'  =  P'-^^P'e 

meats.  .  ^  '"^"'' ""^  ^^'^--^  S'ven  tea  and  sueet- 

arock.butVnUga::^;:^:r:-:^^--'^^"-;ton 

to  It  IS  the  want  of  water      Fv.  '      ""  drawback 

and  garden,  has  to  l^e  brou.^      V  "';'  '"''  ''"•  '^""^^ 
mi-ch  to  spire   -ind  M  ^       "  ^'"■'■^''  ^  •'^"  there  is  not 

windows  tSi':'vt!:;^:;;r"i^--^"p-  ^-nuh: 

ains,  a  little  wanting    ^tlrv•^"f;•'  '"'"^^^  '''^  "^"""^■ 
''■■^^h.     Mount  Bakef     .';."'  ?r''"^''  '^"^  ^"^tremely 

*  The  Hon.   Afr    Rirhnr  i.    h  ~  ^  ' ' 

I-ieutenant-Governor,  had  not'vof'.r^'  '■^■<-'n  only  recently  appointed 
^^  not  J ct  occupie<l  Government  1  lou.sc. 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XV 


i'.  interviewed  peoi)ie  ixum.  ten  till  five.  They  are 
very  anj^ry  with  Canada,  and  he  has  n.ird  \vori<.  About 
five  I  got  liua  to  come  and  talce  a  little  drive.  We  called 
on  the  Lieutenant-Governor — Mr.  Richards  — drove 
through  the  city,  and  as  our  drive  was  unofficial,  went 
under  the  obnoxious  arch,  and  round  the  "park,"  JJeacon 
Hill  ;  from  the  coast-road  there  is  a  very  fine  view  of 
the  mountains.  Captain  Chatfield  came  to  stay  with  us. 
There  is  a  bright  sun,  but  a  cold  wind.  It  seems  to  me 
a  trying  climate,  and  the  many  changes  of  temperature 
and  food,  and  the  long  journey,  have  rather  knocked 
me  up. 

Chief  Justice  Sir  Matthew  Begbie  dined  with  us.  He 
is  a  very  big  man,  very  amusing,  and  the  whist-player  of 
British  Columbia;  however,  on  this  occasion  1).  and  I 
beat  him  thoroughly.  His  mind  was,  I  suppose,  distract- 
ed, for  I  found  afterwards  that  he  had  planned  to  sere- 
nade us,  and  had  arranged  for  some  young  ladies  to 
come  up  at  9.30  to  sing  with  him  at  our  windows;  so  he 
was  all  the  time  listening  with  one  ear  for  the  sound  of 
wheels,  while  he  was  attending  to  the  trumps  with  his 
eyes.  At  last  D.,  who  had  just  gone  away  to  do  some 
business,  heard  voices  in  the  garden,  and  with  well- 
feigned  astonishment  rushed  in  to  tell  me.  We  brought 
the  singers  in,  and  gave  them  tea. 

yv. :/(/)',  iStJi. — We  had  a  dinner  for  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  and  his  wife.  The  other  guests  were  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Bunster  (he  is  the  Dominion  M.  P.),  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Roscoe,  Senator  and  Mrs.  Macdonaid,  and  the  local 
Prime  Minister,  with  his  wife,  Mrs.  Elliott. 

Saturday,  /gt/i.—\),  kept,  busy  till  within  ten  minutes 
of  dinner-time.  He  is  working -.^/y  hard.  At  five  o'clock 
I  ga  /e  hm  !ip,  and  took  the  Commodore  and  the  boys  a 
drive.     Wc     ,\it   to    the   Gorge.     The   roads  here  are 


good,  and 


ily. 


AUG.  1876 


OUR   CHINESE   COOJC. 


277 


In  the  evening  we  had  a  Drawing-room  at  the  Parlia- 
ment Buildings.  The  officers  of  the  rteet  helped  to  make 
a  brdhant  Court,  and  it  was  very  largely  attended,  and 
was  most  successful.  Six  Chinamen  came,  and  the-r 
names  greatly  tried  the  gravity  of  the  A.  D.  C.  who  had 
to  read  t!icm  aic^ud. 

AfonJuy,  2/'f.-~l  walked  for  an  hour  with  I).,  and  the 
whole  of  the  rest  of  the  day  he  was  shut  up  with  various 
people.  One  deputation  stayed  from  two  till  six.  I  was 
"at  home,"  and  the  Commodore  helped  me  to  receive  my 
visitors,  for  Fred  was  deep  in  invitations,  and  the  others 
were  with  D.  In  the  evening  we  had  a  dinner— Mr  and 
Mrs.  Trutch,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Crease,  Mrs.  Grey,  Mrs 
0'Reilly,the  Ministers  Smith  and  Vernon,  and  the  Mayor 
(Mr.  J.  S.  Drumniond). 

Tucsi/ay,  22J.— As  usual,  the   morning  was  spent  by 
D.  in  seeing  deputations  and  visitors  of  all  kinds. 

We  had  an  afternoon-party,  and  I  received  the  guests 
in  the  garden.  We  had  a  band  there,  but  in  a  very  short 
time  we  adjourned  to  the  house,  and  danced  D  was 
released  about  four  o'clock,  and  was  able  to  lead  off 
the  ball.  Six  Chinamen  came,  and  looked  on  with  great 
interest.  The  party  broke  up  at  5.30,  and  we  had  a 
dinner,  beginning  at  6.30,  and  had  afterwards  to  attend 
a  concert  held  in  the  theatre. 

JlWm-s^fay,  2jd.~l  have  just  received  such  a  funny 
visit.  Our  cook,  Ah  Sam,  has  been  lately  married  and 
said  he  would  like  me  to  sec  his  wife;  so  she  came  this 
mo  ;jng.  The  door  opened,  and  in  walked  a  Chinese 
lady,  dressed  in  black  satin,  wearing  bracelets  and  rings 
and  with  her  hair  wonderfully  done;  and  supported  by 
her  came  a  little  creature  with  a  baby  face,  who  evi- 
dently  could  not  walk  alone  on  account  of  her  tiny  feet 
her  hair  very  much  dressed,  and  ornamented  with  what 
appeared  to  be  a  cap  of  many-colored  cut  papers  ■  she 


i 


HI 


\m  y 


iif 


l'  t 


2;8 


MV  CAXAD/AX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XV 

wore  a  blue  tunic  with  embroidery  on  it,  black  satin  pet- 
ticoat,  bracelets,  and  earrings,  and  had  rings  on   her  bits 
of  hands.     This  was  the  l)ride.     We  got  her  into  a  chair, 
for  she  seemed  at  first  incai)abie  of  even  shaking  hands 
without  help,  and  for  some  time  she  appeared  to  be  on 
the  verge  of  tears,  and  half  covered  her  face  with  a  red 
sdk  pocket-handkerchief.     It  was  a  little  embarra.ss.ng 
or  us  all.     Ah  Sam  kissed  my  hand,  and  brought  in  a 
tray  full  of  presents:  two  packets  of  fireworks  (whr  a 
w.U   be  awkward   to  travel  with),  some  gimcracks  they 
use  m  their  churches,  a  Chinese  crpe  handkerchief,  and 
some   shell   frames.     We    looked  at  these  and   thanked 
ly'^oul   then   he  went  away,  and   we  began  to  talk  to 
the  bride,  who   by  this  time   had  somewhat  recovered 
She  was  really   a  very  pretty  little  thing,  with  a  bright 
complexion,  pretty  eyes  and  teeth;  and  she  answered  us 
very  nicely  m  ICnglish,  and  cpiite  understood  D.'s  j„kes 
as  to  the  respective  merits  of  her  hairdressing  and  mine 
I'oor  baby  that  she  is.  she  has  onlv  l)een  married  a 
week,  and  has  not  known  .Ah  Sam,  who  is  an  elderly  and 
very  ugly  gentleman,  much  longer.     When  leaving,  she 
kissed   rny  iiand,  and   then  made  a    set  courtesy  at  the 
door,  just  like  a  child  who  had  learned  its  lesson. 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  went  in  carriages  to  see  a  re- 
Ratta.  which  was  to  be  held  at  the  Corge-an  arm  of  the 
sea  which  spreads  out  like  a  small  lake,  narrowing  at 
each  end;  its  shores  are  rocky  mounds  and  wooded 
banks,  and  on  them  there  were  knots  of  people  in  every 
direction.  Across  one  end  there  was  a  string  of  flags 
which,  with  the  background  of  mountains,  wood,  and' 
water,  looked  very  gay;  a  number  of  boats  were  <|n(t,.d 
about.  an<I  arranged  in  three  groups  were  twentv  large 
canoes,  filled  with  Indians,  and  covered  from  siem  to 
stern  with  flags.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive  anything 
'nore  brilliant  than   the  scene  was,  with  a  bright  sun 


Ave.  1876 


/f£GA  TTA. 


279 

sinning  over  all.     As  soon  as  the  Indians  saw  th.  ( ;,.v 
en.or.(.enenUappn.achin.tl,eysetupanextra,.    1       ; 
how  ,  and  jumped  about,  stampn^g  and  clapping  ^ 

^Vegot  uuo  a  man-of-war's  boat,  and  mwed  about 
amcmg  them,  being  greeted  bv  each  set  with  f  Is     ' 
t-t.ons  and  acclamations.     There  were  ab.n,         ^^i 
people   m   each   canoe.     Most  of   them  had  tC^^" 
l>a.nted-br.glu  red  being  the  favorite  color.     S  L     -u 

a  streak  across  the  face,  others  patches  on  their  c^U 
1        .,        ,.  '^'Uiici  nc(i.       I  hev    also    wore   colnrf/l 

r»t"r,;,''"' "■''■■  "■">•--'-'-" -" 

TlHTc  wtTo  ,,cmc  exccllcm  races,  f„„r  „r  llvo  „f  ,h. 
rfie  .anoes  ,„  a  race,  tlu-  .non  rmvi„„,  „r  rather  Jl 
|llmK  w,.h  all  .l,oir  ,„i«l„_..„,|„y  strokes  a  „,i,  „  ^1 
leaving  quite  a  sea  behind  them. 

There  was.   too.  a   most  e.xciting  scjuaw  race.     \\c> 

owed   alongside  most  of   the  way.  and  saw  the  wonu., 

^vHl;  one  crew   consisted  of  rather  nice-looking  voung 

ones,  but  these  did  not  win.  ^ 

Many  <.f  the  s.p.aws  wear  hand.some  silver  bracelets 
and  a  certain  young  lady.  Amanda  by  nan.e.  has  pron.^ 
i^cd  to  try  and  |u-ocure  me  a  |)air. 

The  Commo.h.re  came  home  to  dine  with  ns,  and  we 
-  a  party.  U'e  were  obliged  to  d.sn.iss  ou;  guest! 
athe.  early,  as  we  en.barked  after  thev  left.     We  dmve 

t"WnmauIt.  and  when  we  got  into  the  boat  the  three 
rnen-of-war  suddenly  illnminate.l.     At  the  end  of  ea,h 
arc    a  blue- bght   burst   into  (lame,  and  everv  port  was 
I'yI'tcdnp:  there  were  also  .some  rockets         ' 

/W„r.  ,4tl,.-A   was  awoke  alx.ut   seven   bv   the 
tluimp,  thump  of  our  .crow,  and  fnund 
on  our  travels.     We  passed  tj 


We  were  again 


irou<'.h  the  C.eorgian  H; 


ly. 


WSOKS 


280 


A/y  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CII.  XV 


and  had  all  day  the  most  lovely  scenery.  One  part  of 
tlu;  lime  we  were  in  a  very  narrow  channel,  and  could 
almost  touch  the  rock  ow  one  side.  About  fcnir  we 
reached  Nanaimo,  and  anclKjred  in  its  harbor.  We  went 
out  to  fisii  for  salmon,  and  beini,^  unsuccessful,  we  stopped 
a  fishing-boat  to  ask  if  they  had  caujrht  anytninj^r,  and 
the  owner  immediately  introduced  himself  as  a  County 
Down  man.  He  ran  away  as  a  boy,  and  now  turns  his 
hand  to  anythinjr  here.  He  i)ointed  to  a  half-breed  fjirl 
on  board,  who,  he  saiil,  was  his  dau^^hter ;  adding,  "Of 
course,  she's  not  like  any  of  us,  but  she  is  a  very  tjood 
girl." 

Friday,  ^^///.—Directly  after  iireakfast  we  landed  at 
Nanaimo;  it  is  a  small  place,  but  the  inhabitants  gave 
us  a  very  kind  reception.  A  large  scpiare  place  was 
built  up,  and  decorateil  with  Hags  and  evergreens,  and 
at  one  end  of  it  the  school-children  were  placed.  I'here 
was  an  address,  and  then  a  song,  written  for  the  occa- 
sion, was  sung. 

We  went  to  the  coal-mine,  looked  down  it,  and  came 
on  board  our  ship  again. 

We  left  at  one  o'clock  and  proceeded  on  our  journey 
north,  reaching  Tribune  Harbor  in  three  hours.  'J'he 
gentlemen  rather  expected  to  get  some  shooting,  and 
directly  we  anchored  every  one  ajipeared  in  sporting- 
clothes.  !).,  the  Captain,  and  I  went  in  one  boat,  and 
landed  where  there  was  an  Indian  house.  The  inhab- 
itants promised  to  show  us  grouse  and  deer,  but  directly 
they  had  put  us  in  the  track  they  went  off  at  a  gallop 
with  their  own  guns,  and  we  sup|)ose  they  intended  to 
kill  a  deer,  and  to  bring  it  on  board  to  sell. 

We  tramped  on  through  the  narrow  path,  climbing 
over  lallen  trees,  our  only  pleasure  being  the  beaut ifid 
view  as  we  looked  over  the  bay  in  which  the  Aiiuthyst 
was  anchoretl.    When  sunset  was  app.'-uaching,  we  turned 


One  part  of 
I,  and  Could 
[jut  four  we 
)r.  We  went 
I,  we  stopped 
iiytniny,  and 
as  a  County 
JW  turns  his 
If-breed  ;j;irl 
Hiding,  "  Of 
a  very  jjood 


AUG.  1876 

back.     I),  and  the  C 


BUTE  LXI.ET. 


281 


three  grouse  rose,  the  first  we  had 
perched  ujjon  a  tree,  and  sat  tiler 


)mmodore  had  just  unloaded,  wh 


en 


seen.     One  of  them 
e,  so  we  said,  "for  the 


pot,"  and  the  CaiHain  loaded  and  shot  hini;  h 
was  lost  in  the  thick  shrubs   t 


owever,  he 


hi 


m. 


'l"h 


c  rest  of   the   jKirty  had  no   butt 


lere  being  no  dog  to  find 


they   were    much    pleased   with    themselves    for    I 
bought  some  fish  from  an  Indian;  they  found,  h 
upon  their  return  to  the  ship,  ih; 


cr  sport,  but 


lavmg 


owever. 


the  refuse  of  what  had 

and  tiiat  a  great  sii|)ply  of  better  and  cl 

hc>^\\  laid  ii 


ip,  that  they  had  purchased 
already  been  offered  on  board 


lieaper  ones  had 


SiUurday,  26//i.~\\\i    started    in    tl 


ni 


ight,  and   when   we  came  on  deck   in   tl 


found   oursel 


ves  in   lUite  Inlet.     Th 


ic    middle    of  the 
le  morning  we 


e  scenerv  here  for 


forty  miles  is  perfectly  lovely.     The   channel    bet 


th 

th 


e  outer  belt  of  islands  and  ll 


e  water  very  deep.     On  every  sid 


le  mainland  is  narrc 


ween 

)W, and 


ered  hills,  exhibiting  the  great 

outline,  and  some  of  them  capped  with  snow, 


e  rise  high  i)ine-cov- 


est  variety  of  fo 


rin  and 


Unfortunately  the  weath 


every  mile  we  went,  so  that  somet 
tops  of  the   mountains  for  a  fe 


ler  was  bad.  and  got 


mist  descended  upon  t 


Rot  worse 

imes  we  only  saw  the 

w  moments  before  the 


linte    Inlet  is  expected   to    be  tl 


icm  and  they  were  lost  to  vie 


w. 


Canailian     Pacific    Rail 


le  terminus    of    the 


way,  so    the    (loyernor-( 


aine  out  of  his  way  to  see  the  harbor, 
the  most  beautiful  green.     We  saw  several 


cascades   coming  down    tl 


leneral 
e  water  is 
glaciers  and 


I'h 


anch 
fish 


ored    we  set   out    to    fis 


jump  so  very  close  to  one  bef 


K'   mountains.      Directly    we 
ever   saw   so   many 


I    n 


' I'  ""  '"-'.>   ^""'»^'  10  one   Delore;  however   they 

woidd  not  look  at  our  tenipling  spoon.s,  and  we  <'aught 

rif  if  It  I  ■« .»  ^ 


nothin 


On  shore  we  saw  the  inost  pict 


was  an  fiuiian  wrapped  in 


ures{|ue  figure.    There 


a  scarlet   blanket,  and  with 


«mmm 


282 


A/y  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


\  ii  Ji 


CH.  XV 

conical  hat  on  his  head,  perching  upon  a  large  stone,  his 
arms  clasped  round  his  knees,  lie  looked  like  an  enor- 
mous rol.ni  redbreast.  \y  went  to  speak  to  him  and 
when  he  got  up  we  saw  that  the  red  blanket  was  al,n..st 
his  only  covermg.  He  produced  an  old  sock,  fr„m 
wh.ch  he  extracted  with  pride  a  written  paper,  signed 
by  an  l.nghsh  admiral,  which  informed  the  reader  that 
this  Indian  was  a  decidedly  bad  character,  but  that  he 
had  behaved  better  than  usual  on  some  i)articular  occa- 

SIOIl. 

He  was  in  the  act  of  making  a  "dug-out  "-  a  canoe 
carved  out  of  a  tree-which  lay  on  the  shore  in  its  un- 
'in.shed  state.  I),  looked  into  his  hut-a  miserable 
place  open  at  two  shies;  a  woman  and  three  cNldren 
and  a  quantity  of  dried  fish,  were  in  it.  We  gave  the' 
man  what  tobacco  we  had  in  the  boat. 

Smuhy,  27///.-..\nother  misty  and  rainy  day.  We 
had  a  very  nice  service  on  board  at  ten  o'clock,  with 
good  singing.  We  at  this  time  were  still  in  the  Sound, 
and  the  scenery  was  ve.\  r,ne.  but  for  about  three  hours 
<n  the  afternoon  we  were  in  the  open  sea,  and  there  were 
doubts  whether  we  .should  not  have  to  keep  out  to  ^ea 
f«.r  the  night,  to  avoid  a  very  nasty  bit  of  navigation  in 
the  dark:  i,ut  the  g„od  ship  ^//;/,//„,v/  went  verv  fast 
ami  we  h.id  the  pleasure  of  anchoring  at  eight  in  Safety 
ilariior,  and  having  a  (piiet  dinner, 

We  found  our  tender  waiting  us  here. 
Monday,  ^.W/.-We  started  as  usual  about  davlight 
•"><I  again  passed  through  narrow  channels  and  most 
bcautilul  scenery.  .At  ten  we  had  some  gun-practice, 
and  saw  shot,  shell,  and  case  hred  at  the  rocks  on  shore. 
I  he  latter  is  used  for  thing  at  boats,  and  as  it  leaves  the 
Kun  It  l)reaks  up  into  small  pieces,  an<l  powders  the 
water  all  over  with  scraps;  a  boat  coming  off  could 
scarcely  escape  being  hit.     The  sailors  equippinl  them- 


^ 


AlHJ.   1876 


MIirLACATLAII. 


283 


selves  for  war,  with  swords  and  j^.stols,  and  the  doctors 
l)rei)arc(l  for  i)roken  legs  and  various  wounds. 

We  arrived  at  our  anchorage  about  four  o'clock  and 
as  usual,  this  sporting  community  i)rei)ared  to  fish  and 
to  shoot.  We  were  surrounded  hv  steep,  high,  pinc- 
c-overed  hills,  so  Fred  Ward,  Mr.  Rowe,  and  a  half-breed 
determined  t<.  shoot  for  us  a  deer  or  a  bear.  Tho  Com 
•""'lore,  !).,  and  I  went  fishing,  but  another  boat-load 
made  for  the  little  river  before  us. 

The  bear-hunters  shot  a  goose,  the  large  boat-load 
caught  SIX  trout,  and  the  Commodore  and  1)  took  a 
tremendous  walk  through  the  bush,  and  succeeded  in 
.getting  to  the  top  of  a  very  pretty  waterfall,  which 
sto|)ped  the.r  farther  progress.  They  saw  tracks  both 
of  deer  and  of  bear.  It  rained,  and  1  remained  in  the 
l)oat,  and  did  nothing. 

r.u's^hjy,  .v//.-There  is  very  little  to  tell  of  to-dav 
for  the  weather  has  been  desperately  bad-pouring  rain! 
and  much  fog.  Wc  have  seen  nothing  in  the  wav  oj 
scenery,  and  had  it  not  been  for  having  our  tendc'r  to 
IMlot  us  mto  Metlacatlah,  we  should  have  spent  the 
">«lit  at  sea  ;  however,  here  we  are  safe  at  am  hor  1 
saw  one  little  sea-beast  to-day;  i,  jumped  clear  of  th- 
water  several  times,  and  showed  itself  plainly_a  sea- 
otter. 

Metlacatlah  is  one  of  the  most  successful  of  Indian 
ni.ss.ons.  Jt  >s  entirely  the  work  of  a  Mr.  Duncan,  who 
whe.i  hecame  here  found  the  Indians  in   a  most  savage 

/^/^tlfflflmt  II..         I..  !■  •  ^ 


condition.     Jle  has  lived  entirel 
i-egarded   by  them  as  their  fath 
liear  that  the  inlliience  he  h 


Is 


y   among  them,  and 
er  and  their  friend.     I 


done,  is  wonderful. 
^^'e  fired  a  can 


IIS,  and  the  real  gooti  he  I 


KIS 


can  came  off  to  see  us.     II 


lion  directly  we  arrived,  and   Mr.  I) 


iin- 


aiid  enthusiastic,  guud  a.iu  cl 


e  IS  vei-y  pleasant— bright 


Wl 


ever— quite  a  model  \\\ 


IS- 


wferoiijsi; 


(    ; 


!      i 


284 


MV  CAXAD/AX  jOURXAL. 


CH.  XV 

sionary  Coming  to  these  Indians  in  their  most  savaL^e 
and  debased  condition,  he  has  Christianized  and  civU- 
•>:ed  tliem  ;  he  has  not  only  taught  then,  their  religion 
and  the  three  R's.  bnt  has  hunseif  shown  them  how  to 
biM  d,  taught  them  how  to  trade,  to  mal<e  soap,  to  sin-.  • 
IS  h..r  ch.ef  magistrate,  and,  as  I  said  before,  thdr' 
father  and  friend. 

He  came  to  MetlacatUJi  from  Fort  Simpson  with  fifty 
Indums.   settmg  up  a  new  village  on   this  spot  ;    now 
here  are  e.^ht  hundred  living  here.    When  he  first  came 
the  Indians  were  some  of  them  cannibals,  and  all  ever- 
c.sed  the  most  horrible  heathen  rites  and  ceremonies, 
cssed  nj  blankets,   wore  painted  masks,  had  several 
■ves,  and  knew  no   law.     Now  Metlacatlah   is  quieter 
than  a  wh.te  village  of  its  .size;  the  Indians  themseh's 
are  pohce,  and   they   form  a  council,  which  settles  all 
tneir  iocai  matters. 

Arr  Duncan  amused  us  by  telling  us  how  he  once 
bought  a  schooner  to  take  furs  to  Victoria;  he  started 
as  Its  captain,  and  his  crew  were  Indians.  Neither  can- 
ta.n  nor  men  knew  anything  about  the  sea,  and  the 
voyage  is  a  „u)st  difticult  one,  and  .somewhat  long  for 
they  were  out  a  month.  *" 

U\ul,u'sday,  joth.-lt  was  delightful,  after  vestcrdav's 
ram.  to  find  a  lovely  morning,  and  to  .see  the  beautiful 
sc-enery  of  this  place  to  perfection;  but  I  must  tell  vou 

cTthh       ''"'   '""'  '"''''  ^"  ""'   ^'^^"'"^^'•"'»i?'-*''f  Mc^tla- 

We  started  in  boats  directly  after  breakfast,  our  Staff 
being  dressed  in  red,  to  please  the  Indians.  As  we  an- 
proached  the  shore  they  (the  Indians)  fired  off  two  can- 
n..ns.  and  when  we  landed  we  f,>und  a  very  respectable 
KiKud-of-honor  ready  t..  present  arms;  a  Imarded  place 
had  been  prepared  .u,  the  grass  for  us  to  stand  on  and 
round  It  were  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  vilhure 


Aur,.  1S76 


METI.ACATLAH. 


They  had  received 


285 


them  before 


"o  notice  of  our  intention  to  visit 


our  arrival  last  ni^^ht 


the   inhabitants  were  ab 


so  th 


t-'  greater  part  of 


were  „„i,.  „„.c„  ^.  ^1^::^"^^^  ^  -"  '-<= 
Mr.   Uimcan   presented  me   will,  a  silver   brirel,.f 

-i-rs.in":it,riL;t:/i:::; ;:  r:!^.'''^;;'''"' ''.'-^ 

was  shot  „ueside  his  d„„M„;he  til,::;"'-     "'"='"""^" 

ppglliii 

C  ,  I  ■  son  ,eacl,es  .he  «irls  ,uu|  .rains  .hen,  L  \„^ 
'"    ■  "'"  '"'  "•'"'•     "e  nex.  sa,v  .he  ••  Cuneil  R,   T" 
••"Hi  ,„  ,.  a  |,e.„li,,r  fireplace,  which  they  havl    „        »,' 
c«ta„es,  a,Kl  which  ,,  w,.„l.|  like  ,„  pn.'i,        le        , 

center  of  the  room,  with  .he  ,l,in„,ey  ,|ir,.et|y  over  it 

•r;:!::,r;:it!i."'r:;"  -:"  "^^  ■-" ™...es 


carry 


gymnastics  for  the  boys 


>usiness  of  the  place.     Outside,  th 


ere  are 


The  I 
painted 


'ris 


*>n  stands  opposite;  it  is  a  funny  1 


two  rooms,  tl 


Ihun  th 


ijlack  l)elovv  and  wliite  above.     I 
ic  "  bhick  "   pris(in   beiuL' 


le"  white."    (hi  th 


e  t 


y  little  tower, 

t  is  (hvided  into 

niore  diH^racciul 


"P  of  this  building  there 


IS 


f '   i 


mms 


2  86 


MV  CA.VAD/AX  JOURNAL. 


en.  XV 


a  stand  fc.r  the  band  !  The  Church  comes  next,  and  is 
quite  new,  Iiavin-  been  built  entirely  bv  Mr.  Duncan 
and  the  Indians.  It  is  ,20  feet  long  bv' 60,  and  is  50 
feet  h,i,di;  ,t  IS  made  of  cedar  and  cvpress,  and  is  I 
suppo.se,  the  only  building  of  the  kind  to  be  seen  any- 
where made  by  people  so  lately  savage.  It  holds  i  200 
people,  and  is  very  handsome  inside.  Of  course  it  is 
"lade  of  wood,  and  is  perfectly  simple,  but  the  propor- 
tions and  the  simi)licity  together  give  (juite  a  grand 
ettect.  '' 

Tiie  School  is  another  very  good  building,  and  round 
us  walls  there  are  te.xts  and  pictures.     The  pupils  all 
learn  to  read  English,  which  they  prefer   for  readin-  to 
their  native  tongue-their  own  words  are  so  very  long 
1  hey  translate  what  they  read  into  Tschimchyau 

At.  Duncan  has  succeeded  in  educating  them  up  to 
the  Idea  of  having  separate  bedroom.s,  and  houses  to 
theuKselves,  mstead  of  living  five  or  six  families  together 
<>>  one  room;  and  the  first  of  his  new  houses  has  just 
been  put  up.  We  went  into  it,  and  were  received  bv  the 
master  and  mistress;  the  former  presented  me  with  one 
of  the  masks  they  used  to  wear  in  their  dances  The 
house  was  very  nice,  the  floors  and  part  of  the  walls 
covered  with  a  kind  of  native  matting 

After  making  the  tour  of  the  village  we  returned  to 
•;:  1'  ''^'"'•-»-       ■■I'c    people   collected  round,  and  .sang 
('od  save  the  Queen,-   and  some  English  songs,  and 
then  a  song  about    .Mdlacaliah.  composed  bv  Mr   Dun- 
can, and  set  to  the  air  of  "  H„„ie,  Sweet  Home  "•  also 
some    English    and    Tschimchyau    hymns.      An    Imlian 
then  read  an  address  in   English,  and  the  chiefs  signed 
.t  m  our  presence.     D.  replied,  Mr.  Duncan  taking  down 
his  si)eech,  and   translating   it   afterwards.     He  speaks 
their  language  perfectly,  while  many  Englishmen  only 
learn  a  jargon  called  Chinook,  which  is  a  sort  of  "  pigeon 


ALT,,  1876 


FORT  SI  MP  SON. 


287 


«-l.o  may  have  sickness  a,„„„«  Uk-,,,  ,„         '  T 

put  "l>  a  saw.n.ill,  ami   1  tl.mk   1     '1  ,  ""  '''■" 

n-kos„ap;,,,e,;ac,e,.sus„\,  ',::,'''?"'"■;- 
»  piece  the  width  „f  a  (l„irer  ■  Tl  is  „  ,  ''  ""  ''"' 
"-king  a.  prese,,.,  and  t he  ,.,d       C       ^ t"""''-  '^  ""' 

;o  .he  sh,p  a,u,  asked  f„t  s„a,.,  n;",?,:;'  ,:;"';: 
-^ -then.  stat,o.,  .r  Bntish  .,„:;:  :;rL;;;: 

We  went   there  in   r)ur  tender    thn    /j      / 

is  most  beautiful.  ^ '^^  view  from  the  Fort 

Unfortunately,   the   (Jovernor    of    the   Fort    nul    tl 

.e.ate„„t.;ea::ii-:,r--::;^-...... 

<■  10    ,,:ii„„  ,  -'         "'>»-,   lOOK   Us  tliroMfrh 

the   village,  where  we  saw   for  the  fust  tim..  c 

p..ie!'''n™,':'.^:™,r  °r ,""  ^""-  "■••■'  ■■'"  ™—  i-o 


on   Its  breast  a 


wings   spro.uj  out,  niul 


on 


ear 


aked  baby  or  imp;    undcrnc 


wni 


ith 


K  and 
was 


288 


MV  CANADIAIV  JOURNAL. 


% 


iJj :  I 


CH.  XV 

nailed  a  long  cloth  apron  ornamented  with  buttons 
Another  j^ole  had  a  dog  at  the  top  and  a  queer  face 
carved  below.  These  poles  are  said  to  cost  the  Indians 
about  ^300  apiece— that  is  to  say,  they  will  give  away 
blankets  to  that  amount  for  the  privilege  of  i)utting 
one  up.  ** 

We  went  into  some  of    the  houses ;  they  consist  of 
one  very  large  room,  with  the   square  fire  in  the  center 
the   rafters   being   made    of   the  most  enormous  trees' 
His  Ex.  spoke  to  the  Indians,  and  they  made  a  reply 
which  Mrs.  Morrison  (who  is  a  half-breed)  translated 
_      We  had  a  very  short  time  to  stay  here,  and  were  soon 
m  the  Douglas  again,  on  our  way  back  to  Metlacatlah. 
Mr.    Duncan    and    Mrs.    Collinson    dined  with  us.     An 
Indian  chief  came  with  them  in  order  to  present  D.  with 
the  hat  his  father  used  to  wear  in  the  feasts  and  dances. 
It  is  three  feet  high,  made  of  strips  of  thuja-bark  plaited 
together,  and  jointed  so  as  to  sway  about  with  everv 
movement  of  the  dancer.    The  man  valued  it  very  much 
and  Mr.  Duncan  told  us  that,  although  he  has  known 
him  for  years,  he  never  saw  the  hat  before.     He  says 
many  of  the  others  had  presents  ready  for  us,  but  we 
had  not  time  to  go  to  the  houses. 

Thursday,  jyj/.—We  were  to  have  started  at  day- 
break, but  there  was  a  thick  fog,  which  only  lifted  at 
9.30;  after  that  the  day  was  beautiful,  and  we  had  a 
splendid  passage  over  to  Queen  Charlotte's  Islands.  I 
suppose  this  is  the  wildest  place  I  shall  ever  be  at.  It 
is  solely  inhabited  by  Indians,  and  as  yet  there  is  no 
missionary  among  them;  but  Mr.  Collinson  is  coming 
here  from  Metlacatlah. 

We  anchored  opposite  a  village  which,  in  the  distance, 
looked  like  a  forest  of  bare  |)()les.  These  poles  are 
heraldic,  and  are  the  monuments  to  chiefs  that  I  told 
you  of  before.     ICvcry  house  seems  to  have  one— and, 


SEPT.  1876  A    TRADIXG  SETTLEMENT. 


289 


as  I  think  I  said,  they  are  hi-hly  valiied-as  symbols  of 
rank.      Some  are  carved   the    whole  way  up  with  v,ro. 
esque  figures  and  faces,  some  are  painted  ;  and  in  many 
houses  the  door  is  a  part  of  the  pattern  of  the  pillar 
and  IS  an  oval  hole,  through  which  you  see  the  pictur' 
esque    Indian    figures    appearing.      When    a    man    dies 
h.s  friends  destroy  his   house,  leaving   the   framework 
and  the  pillar,  and  make  a  little  hut  for  the  dead  body 
to    he   in,  with   a   blanket    nailed    before    it      We      ivv 
one  with  two  canoes  outside,  ready  to  take  the  owner 
across  the  ''silent  lake."     On  one  house  were  two  fig. 
dcntly'    '  '"'   ''"''  '"''   ^'■"^'^-^'^^^^-'"i^^ionaries  ev^- 

Friday  ScptnnU-r  /./.-D.  and  the  Commodore  started 
at  SIX  m  the  morning,  with  some  Indians,  to  try  and  get 
a  bear,  but  they  saw  nothing.  The  Freds  and  I  went  to 
a  httle  trading  settlement,  where  an  American  is  buying 

shore     t.'     /'''"'  T'"'  '"    '"^^^  '^"^    '^-'"^^  ^^°"^  ^'^e 
shore  ,  the  day  was  lovely  and   warm,  and  we  had  great 

fun  bargaining,  buying  silver  bracelets  and  carved  bowls 

from  them.     They  have  a  market  at  Victoria,  and  ask  a 

good  dea  ,  but  the  American  knew  what  we  ought  to 

ff.ve  ;  and  when  we  came  back  to  the  ship,  and  exhibited 

our  bracelets  to  an  Indian  who  was  trading  here,  he  did 

not  seem  at  all    pleased,  and    would    not  let    me  have 

another  bracelet  which  I  wanted  so  cheap.     It  was  so 

amusing  on  board  to  see  all  the  buying  and  selling  g.nng 

biscuit",""  f"""^  ""  ^'"^hes,  soap,  tobacco!  anci 
b  sc  uts  bemg  exchanged,  while  hideous  faces,  painted 
black  or  red,  looked  up  from  the  canoe. 

The  people  here  all  .seem  to  paint  their  faces,  and 
tley  wear  blankets,  which  they,  unfortunately,  buy 
wlute    so  that    they  are    generally  very    dirty-looking' 


is  rather  sorry  now  that  he  did 


of  ihc  fun  li 


ere.     lie  returned 


not  stay  aiul  see  mn 


at  2  I'.  M, 


and 


re 
we  are  off 


tyjMg 


290 


M  Y  CANADIA  X  JO  URXAL. 


cir.  XV 


again.     You  may  sec  by  my  writing  that  the  screw 


work 


IS  at 


Saturday,  ^,/.— We   liad   beautiful 


able  to  enjoy  th( 


weather,  and 


rough.      A  fog    this 


evening;  but  the  night  wa 


were 

s  somewhat 


whetl: 
ha 


er  we  could   g(j   on  at   all, 


s  mornnig,  and    manr  doubt 


s  as  to 


or  w 


heth 


er   we   s 


ve  to  go  out  to  sea-a  very  unpleasant  prospect 
'  just  turned  back,  when  we  met 


had 


Doug/t 


hould 
We 


'as,  and,  as  she  dr, 


show  us  the  wav.     W 


iiws  less  water,  sh 


our  little  friend,  the 


e  were  off  Yhwca 


wanted  to  pass  between  it  and   th 


e  undertook  to 
uver  Island,  and 


came  on 


e  mainland.     'J'he  fc 


)L'' 


very  thick,  and  we  lost  sight  of  the  Doi/o/as 


and  stopped   again  ;  then  th 


we  were 


e   mist  suddenly  lifted. 


immediately    able   to  go  on   at   full   sijeed 


and 


great  delight  and  relief  t 


o  us  al 


There  are  two  th 


dians.     One  is,  that  at  Metlacatlah 
creasing  in    population,    whereas 
they  are  diminishing  in  numb 
I  told  you  about  the  hid 


ings  I  forgot  to  say  about  the  Ii 


they 


are  rapidly  in- 


m 


women  have  their  lips  .stuck  out,  by 


old 

of  wood,  which   are  put  in  when   th 

changed  for  larger  bits  as  th 


most    other  places 

ers.     Then,  I  don't  think 

eous  way  in  which  many  of  the 


times  the  tablets  are  the 


means  of  pieces 

ey  are  babies,  and 

ey  grow  old ;  so  that  some- 


as  such.    In  the  case  of  too  hot 
upon  this  convenient  dumb- 


e  size  of  a  spoon,  and  are 


usee 


the  mouth  when 
lower 


cool 


a  morsel,  it  is  laid  down 

umb-waiter,  and  is  tipped  up  into 

Other  women  have  a  hole  in  the 


p,  through  which  a  silver  pin  appears;  th 


movable  ornament 

The  fog  this  morning  detained 
found   it  impossible   to  get  to  the  harb 


IS  IS  a 


us  so  long  tliat  we 


had  intended  to  stop  the  nigbt ;  so  it 
termined  to  anchor  in  Alert  B 


did.     We  had  an  h 


or,  in  which  we 

v.'as  suddenly  de- 

ly,  which  we  accordingly 


landed    to   see    the  Ind 


!0ur  to  spare  before  dinner,   so 


we 


ian  village  there.     We  found 


SEPT.  1976 


ic  screw  is  at 


ALERT  BAY. 


2gt 


great  number  of  people,  sitting  in  front  of  their  houses 
-large  bu.ld.ngs,  with  whitewashed  fronts.     The     w'e  e 
wrapped  ,n  blankets,  with  handkerchiefs  t.ed  roundup 
'cads.     \\e  walked   straight   through   them  to  the  hst 
-use    wh.ch  was  the  ch.efs.      Ch,    the    smell  -      Th 

ritd:7'^^''''^"-'""^'"^'-'-'"^'"^'-^a 
rner  it,  and   uhen  we  went  in  we  found  a  great  square 
room,  with  fires  in  three  corners,  and  three  set    of  " 
pie  sitting  round  them.     In  the  center  was  a  wooden  r!' 

w:  weiur't'"''*"^  ^"  '^'^ '-''  '^^  -"--^  -^-- 

\Ve  ^^ent  up  to  one  group  and  saw  the  chief,  who   how- 
ever appeared   to  be  stupid;  and  his  son  was      ing  o" 
US  back  playing  an  accordion.     The  other  peop      were 
eating  berries  and  flour-and-water  round  the  fire     they 

tTdt  ::?.'"  rf^' '"''''  -^^^^^^-^  --hiter. 
ested    n  us     hough  they  had  fired  off  two  cannon  on  our 

arrival,  and  had  whitewashed  their  houses  on  the  cin  ce 
of  our  coming.  cnance 

The?ind'l'"   T''-  '"'  ''''''  ^°""   ^-^P'-"-^   it  all. 
ihe.   had  been  having  one  of  their  most  savage  orcnes 

and  had  been  singing,  dancing,  and  feasting  fuf  ix  fays 

lh.s  very  morning  their  "  medicine-man  "had  b  en  out 

IVTT'^'  and  in  his  tantrums  had  bitten  sk:;:! 

pie.     On    these   occasions   he  rushes  out  of   the  house 

naked   and  all  the  people  are  bound  to  run  a      y     b  t 

caught   they  stand  still  to  be  bitten,  as  they  c'o   sk    ; 

t  a  great  honor.     The  trader  said  :  '.  If  you  had  come 

u-o  hours  sooner  you  would  have  seen  the  most  terrible 

ase  of  savage  life  -;  but  I  don't  think  we  shou       for 

the  moment  the  man-of-war  came  in  sight  thev  quoted 

il  maif  to  :'^  '^""'^"  ^^"''^'  ^"'  ^''"^^'^^  ^^-'  -^i 
cine-man  to  escape  into  the  woods 

Dr.nk  is  at  the  bottom  of  much  of  the  misery      In 
Canada  there  !«  =>  r,n^  ..f  <^.--   r         ,,.  ^^     ^" 


there  is  a  fine  of  $500  for  sell 


•iians,  but  here  they  get  it  from  Amer 


iii«'  spirit  to  la- 


•i,( 


30 


ican  traders. 


292 


AfV  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XV 

Sunday,  j./._We  had  a  lovely  day,  and  after  morning 
service  went  through  the  last  danger  on  this  route-the 
Seymour  Narrows.  There  are  several  whirlpools  formed 
by  a  rapul  tide  in  tliis  very  narrow  channel,  and  an 
American  man-of-war  was  lost  in  them  not  long  a-,. 

We  anchored    in   Tribune   Harbor,   and  took  a    nice 
walk  over  the  cliffs,  returning  in  time  for  dinner 

Monday,  ^///.-This  is  the  last  day  of  our  voyage  in 
the  Amethyst.  ^ 

When  we  arrived  at  Hurrard's  Inlet  we  saw  the 
R<Kket,  and  the  sight  of  her  told  us  that  our  mail  was  in 
Not  havmg  heard  for  a  long  time,  we  were  all  delighted' 
In  the  evening,  by  another  steamer,  two  more  mails  ar- 
rived, and  when  I  went  to  bed  I  had  quite  a  headache 
from  readn,g  letters.  I  had  forty  myself-so  many  from 
the  children,  etc. 


i 


f 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

BRITISH    COLUMBIA,    CAUKORMA,    AN„    THE     SAI,T     T.AKE 

CITV. 

7'«««'«;,  .9.//m/v,-5M.__The  repose  of  a  sea-life   is 
over;    posts  and    tcieKrams.  addresses,  replies    a    he 
bands  and  salutes  are  alive  again  ' 

Almost  before  we  had  finished  our  breakfast  we  were 
hurned  uUo  boats,  and  put  on  board  the  ^..,/.7and  ' ! 
her  we  steamed  along   for  an  hour,  reading  ^  U;eew 
n  the  papers.     T.ater  we  got  into  boats  and  canoes     nd 
landed  in  the  bush,  where  we  went  to  see  a  gr"' tree 
cudown.     Our  time  being  short,  our  host,  Mr.^R  ^    ? 
•    cl  chosen  a  tree  near   the  water,  and   he  made  many 
''P'  log.cs  fonts  small  size;  but  as  it  was  .,o  feet  hit"i 

ancUbout  six  feet  in  dimeter,  we  thought  L:^^^^^^ 
It  had  been  partially  cut  through,  and  we  stood  by  to 
see  ,  s  overthrow.  Two  men  were  working  at  it  Thev 
stood  each  upon  a  spring-board,  on  either  side  o  tie 
t  ee.      I  hese  boards  were  narrow  planks  s.uck  into  holes 

part  of  the  runk  ,s  too  hard  to  repay  the  labor  of  luuk- 
'"J?  through  it) ;  the  spring-board  gives  the  workman 
great  power  with  his  axe.  workman 

In  about  ten  minutes  the  monster  began  slowlv  to 
end   o  one  side,  and  then  a  crashing  and  a  grca     In  d 


WW— 


294 


MY  CAXADIAN  JOUKXAL 


cir.  XVI 


I  I 


J 


Wc  set  off  again  in  our  boats  to  the  Antfi/ivsf,  where 
we  had  a  Imuh  still  more  hurrifd  than  the  i)rcakfast. 
Tile  /)oui^r/as  towed  us  in  tlie  ship's  boats,  and  as  we  went 
very  fast,  and  the  water  was  full  of  pieces  of  limber,  we 
had  quite  an  exciting  voyage,  trying  to  avoid  a  blow 
from  one  of  these. 

We  landed  at  a  wharf,  and  got  into  carriages,  which 
took  us  eight  miles  over  a  corduroy  road  through  the 
primeval  forest.  Our  destination  was  New  Westmin- 
ster, and  when  we  arrived  within  the  precincts  of  the 
city  we  were  met  by  the  Mayor,  a  guard  of  honor,  and 
a  band,  and  passed  under  arches  decorated  with  flags. 
There  were  some  very  pretty  devices,  and  two  rather 
amusing  ones.  D.'s  motto  was  very  happily  combined 
with  the  great  political  question  of  the  day— "  which 
route  the  Pacific  Railway  is  to  take  "— "  Per  Vias  Rcc- 
tas.  The  Eraser  Valley."  Another  had  "  .Speed  the  Rail- 
way "  written  upon  a  board,  above  which  a  little  train 
moved  along  as  we  passed. 

Wc  had  a  sliort  way  to  drive,  and  turned  up  a  grass 
hill,  at  the  top  of  which  a  series  of  platft)rms  were  ar- 
ranged, covered  in  witli  flags,  and  decorated  with  ever- 
greens;  the  view  over  the  Fraser  River,  the  town,  and 
the  distant  mountains  was  (piite  beautiful.     The  whole 
town  was  out,  and  there  was  l)esides  a  great  assembly  of 
Iniiians.     After  various  varieties  of  white  men  had  pre- 
sented addresses  and  been  replied  to,  and  after  numbers 
had  been  shaken  hands  with,  we  looked  down  the  hill, 
and  saw  a  mass  of  Hags  marching  up ;  the  bearers  of 
these  gay  !)anners  were  all  Indian  chiefs,  or  great  men, 
followed  by  a  set  of  Indian  Vnlunteers,  who  had  got  them- 
selves Info  a  very  smart  blue  uniform,  and  were  com- 
manded by  the  owner  of  an  old  red  coat  and  a  pair  of 
epaulets.    The  chiefs  formed  into  a  circle,  while  the  army 
remained  in  a  column,  and  stood  facing  liie  platform. 


SEPT.  1876      A    SPEECH  IX  MAXY    TOXGUES. 


295 


I),  went  down  and  shook  hands  with  the  chiefs,  and  then 
returned  to  the  phitform  and  listened  to  the  speeches  of 
four  of  them,  every  sentence  of  each  bein^r  translated 
by  an  interpreter  into  Knglish. 

When  it  was  his  turn  to  reply,  I),  spoke  one  sentence, 
which  was  taken  up  by  five  interpreters,  who  each,  in 
turn,  put  it  into  some  new  Indian  tonjjuc.  The  process 
was  lonjr,  but  it  was  interesting.  These  poor  people 
have  been  waitinj,^  here  for  the  Governor-Cleneral  for 
nearly  three  weeks,  and  have  taken  great  pains  to  get 
themselves  up  for  the  occasion, 

There  was  lunch  m  a  tent,  and  after  it  we  walked 
down  to  the  river,  and  saw  three  very  good  canoe-races. 
One  set  of  boats  had  twenty-one  Indians  ir  each.  At 
six  o'clock  we  made  a  move  to  go  to  the  steamer  up.jn 
which  we  sleep.  On  our  way  wc  passed  under  a  Chinese 
arch,  and  got  out  of  the  carriage  to  speak  to  some  of 
the  people  about.  After  parting  with  the  officials,  we 
a-rused  ourselves  in  our  own  fashion,  and  seeing  a  great 
sturgeon  at  a  fishmonger's,  we  went  in  to  look  at  if  he 
showed  us  more  than  a  hundred  salmon  he  had  in  store, 
and  asked  us  if  wc  should  like  to  see  some  caught  that 
night;  which  invitation  we  accepted. 

I),  had  a  long  talk  with  various  gentlemen  on  bus], 
ness  before  dinner.  After  it  we  stood  on  the  roof  of  our 
drawing-room  on  the  steamer  to  see  a  most  beautiful 
torch-hght  display  by  the  Indians  in  canoes.  Wc  steamed 
up  a  little  way,  and  then  back,  the  canoes  following 
their  torches  looking  very  brilliant  in  the  darkness  and 
reflected  in  the  water.  Some  men  on  foot,  also  with 
torches,  ran  along  the  banks,  and  the  town  was  illumi- 
nated. Before  the  lights  disappeared  there  was  cheer- 
«ng,  and  "(lod  save  the  Queen." 


After  this  wo  retired  int 


o  private  h^fr,  and 


nriW^ri  m 


,\ 


to  go  out  fishing,     (,'onductcd  by  our  friend 


the  ftiih' 


296 


MY  CANADl AX  JOURNAL. 


Ill  I 


CH.  XVI 

monger,  Mr.  Herring,  we  got  into  a  boat,  Mrs.  Herring 
coming  with  us  to   do   the  iionors.     We  followed   Mr. 
Herring,  who,  in  a  second  boat,  put  down  a  great  net 
which  we  saw  him  take  in.     We  caught  six  fine  salmon 
and  a  sturgeon,  and  it  really  was  great  fun.     When  we 
landed  we  walked  under  the  Chinese  arch  again    and 
were  amused  by  their  lanterns,  which  had  little  animals 
gomg  rou.id  and  round  inside,  jumping  and  moving  their 
legs_so  cleverly  managed.     Sir  Matthew  Begbie  joined 
us  here,  and  goes  with  us  for  some  way.    All  glad  to  iret 
to  bed.  ^ 

WeJncsJay,  6th.~0\xx  steamer  started  at  night  up  the 
Eraser  River.  She  is  a  stern- wheeler,  and  has  capital 
ac'ommodation. 

The  scenery  of  the  Fraser  is  lovely.    I  am  quite  tired 
of  wntmg  this,  and  it  is  impossible  to  convey  an  idea  of 
the  luxe  of  beautiful  views  there  is  in  this  country     Un- 
til A-e  reached  Vale  the  only  event  of  the  day  was  to  \.c 
cabeu  out  to  .see  some  magnificent  one.     A\'e  stopped  a 
few  minutes  at  Hope, a  charming  little  place,  and  got  to 
our  destinati.,n-Yale-in  the  afternoon.     A  coach-and- 
SIX  (in  which  we  travel  for  a  week)  took    us  up  to   Mr. 
Oppenheim's  house,  where  we  are  to  sleep.     On  the  way 
we  stopped  to  receive  a  Chinese  address,  written  on  pink 
paper,  and  an  Indian  one.     The  decorations  were  won- 
derful  for  such  a  small  place;  the  most  original  being  a 
live  horse,  which  was  placed  in   the  way,  with  a  cloth 
over  11,  on  which  wa*  written,  "  (lood,  but  not  iron,"  in 
allusion  to  the  celebrated  railway. 

Tlic  (•ppenheims  had  a  bancpiet  for  us,  cooked  by  a 
Ircnchinan  fn.m  Victoria-very  good,  but  so  plentiful 
that  Nowell  managed  to  suppress  some  dishes  behind 
the  scenes. 

Mrs.  Oppenheim.  though  French,  is  like  a  motherly 
English  woman,  and  I  liked  her  very  much=    'J'l.ev  have 


Si;Pi.  1 8  76 


THE  FRASER  RIVER. 


297 


a  very  nice  house  and  no  children,  but  have  a  nephew 
living  with  them,  and  I  was  so  surprised  when  I  asked 
her  what  profession  the  young  man  was;  she  said  "a 
blacksmith."  He  did  not  dine  with  us,  but  with  the 
servants,  who  did  not  know  who  he  was  until  my  maid 
discovered  his  photograph  hung  up  in  my  bedroom. 

Thursday,  yth. — After  breakfast  we  started  on  our 
journey.  Unfortunately,  it  rained  on  and  off  all  day, 
but  except  that  the  views  would,  most  of  them,  be  pret- 
tier in  sunshine,  the  wet  was  not  sufficient  to  damp  our 
enjoyment.  Just  before  leaving,  an  Indian  woman 
brought  me  a  pin  made  of  a  gold  nugget. 

We  set  off  in  a  large  carriage,  which  held  six  inside 
and  three  on  the  box  ;  the  servants  had  gone  before  us, 
and  I),  and  I,  the  Commodo.e,  the  Chief  Justice,  the 
Colonel,  and  the  Freds,  went  in  this  coach,  drawn  by  four 
horses.  We  had  forty-four  miles  to  drive,  and  the  road 
is  a  wonderful  i)iece  of  engineering  ;  a  wall  of  rock  on 
one  side,  and  a  great  precipice  upon  the  other,  almost 
the  whole  way,  with  every  now  and  then  a  sharp  turn 
round  some  fearful  bluff,  where,  looking  forward,  the 
road  seemed  to  end,  and  there  was  nothing  but  the  river 
to  be  seen,  a  hundred  feet  below.  We  were  following 
the  Kraser  all  day.  The  river  itself  is  muddy,  but  very 
rapid,  with  mountains  almost  precipitous  on  either  side. 
It  was  very  curious  to  see  the  little  Indian  fishing 
establishments  on  the  way.  Wherever  there  was  a  rock 
rising  a  little  above  the  water,  there  you  were  sure  to 
see  a  scaffolding,  ujion  which  were  hung  rows  and  rows 
of  dried  fish,  and  near  it  a  sort  of  spring-board  jutt  ig 
out  into  the  water,  upon  which  a  man  stood  over  he 
stream,  and  dipi)ed  a  net,  shaped  like  a  snow-shoe, 
into  it ;  we  saw  one  man  bring  up  a  large  trout,  and 
cheered  him  from  the  carriage.  Another  curious  thing 
we  saw  was  a  sort  of  house  in  which  liic  liidians  winte.. 


1      i 


298 


My  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


i.     :     \ 


\\ 


cn.  XVI 

A  large  hole  is  cut  in  the  ground,  and  covered  over  with 
a  round  roof;  in  the  top  of  this  there  is  a  hole,  through 
^^h.ch  a  notched  pole  .s  stuck,  and  by  this  the  people  go 
dovvn-and  through  it  the  smoke  comes  up 

We  lunched  at  a  place   called   Boston   Bar,  and   D 
took  several  portraits  of  Indians  there.     They  were  a 
chfferent  type  from  those  we  have  seen  before :  instead 
of  very  fat  faces,  they  have   thin   ones,  and   large,   but 
not   coarse,  mouths.     As  we  approached  our  camp  we 
saw  a  most  beautiful  mountain  view  ;  down  the  sides  of 
he  prec.p.tous  hills  there  were  streaks   of  light  green 
the  rest  bemg  very  dark  f.r ;  light  clouds  of  mist  float' 
mg  about,  and  the  river,  far  below,  flowing  rapidly  a  2 
We  got  out  at  one  place  to  look  at   Hell's   (ate   wherJ 
the    Eraser    rushes   through  a   verv   narrow   pas        W^ 
passed  several  teams   of  si.xteen  o.xen.   and     ome  w    h 
twe  ve  mules,  drawing  two  wagons  fastened  togethe" 

Uhen  we  arrived  at  our   sleeping-place   which   h„? 
b^nar^nged   by  Captain   Layt<!n.Vvi,^«:tm' 

abovi.h  '"  '''   ^'"   '''^  ^'^'^  ^'f  -   ''"'.  800  feet 

above  the  r.ver,  and  when  we  walked  up  the     ittle  n'th 

made  to  them,  we  found  a  large  dining-room    e      'ct 

peted.  the  walls  hun,  with  chintz,  and  ornamen^e    \   th 

green;  and  out  of  this  my  bedroom,  flttcd  with  every 

luxury  !     (nuside  the  dining-room  a  row  of  ten    e .    Z 

Zl^lT  '"'^'""' '" ''''''  '"-^"^^  '-^  '-"-■  ^'--- 

work  r''  7"''"-'""'  '"  ^"'■"'"^'  '^'^  Chinese  cook  is  at 
Hork  at  ano  her  i.re.  and  a  lovely  view  lies  before  us 

^ery  glad  of  the  good  dinner  we  had.  After  it  we  sit 
round  the  f.re ;  the  Indians  joined  the  circle,  and  as^ed 
a  stone  pipe  from  one  to  another 

I  have  retired  from  the  f.re  to  write  this,  but  it  is 
nnpossible  to  do  justice  to  the  day  so  hurriedly,     i  have 


SEPT.  1876 


AN  /XD/AX  £SCO/?T. 


299 


not  mentioned  a   waterfall,  perfectly  straight,  down  an 
enormously  high  cliff.     The  road  really  is  rather  awful 
and  I  got  great  credit  for  my  courage  in  driving  over  it' 
/'ru/ay,  J///.-\Ve  breakfasted  in  our  spacious  camp 
at  seven  o'clock-to  the  tune,  alas '  of  a  pattering  r.,n 
-and  in   half  an   hour  set  off  on  our  drive.     The  riin 
kept  on  all  day  more  or  less,  the  weather  luckily  beiiu^ 
least  wet  at   the  most   important  moments.     The  roid 
was,  I  thought,  rather  worse  than   before,  being  equally 
precipitous  and  narrow,  and  much  softer  and  more  slin. 
pery-looking.     Before  we  reached  Lytton  we  met  a  great 
assembly  of  Indians,  who  had  built  an  arch  close   to  a 
li  tie  church  they  have  there.     There  were  about  500  of 
whom  300  men  and  women  were  on  horseback;  numbers 
of  foals  were  following,  and  the  neighing  and  excitement 
among  the  horses  was  as  great  as  that  among  the  men. 
An  Indian  had  met  us  about  three  miles  from  the  town 
and    said,  "Tayee.'-    (chief).      .'Yes,-    was    the    reply' 
from  our  carriage,  and  .,ff  he  started  on   his  way  to  tell 
them  we  were  coming.     Such  a  motley  and  picturesciue 
assembly:  every  .sort  of  color  an<l  dress;  curious  caps 
made  of  handkerchiefs  tied   on  in  every  possible  waV ' 
fur  caps,  made  apparently   of  a  whole  animal,  though 
some  were  merely  a  strip  of   fur  tied  round  the  head  • 
and  every  face  a  study.     The  women  rode  astrifl..  but 
had  a  blanket  so  neatly  laid  over  the  knees,  and  tucked 
into  the  stirrup  at  each  foot,  and  sat  so  well,  and  were 
so  much  at   home   on    their  saddles,  that   thev  looked 
charmmg.     Sometimes  there  were  two  on  a  horse,  and 
many  a  mother  and  child  sat  together  on   one       The 
men  s  saddles  were  often  a  good  deal  ornamented 

The  missionary  read  an  address,  and  "  (lod  save  the 
gneen      was  sung  in   Indian.     We  visited  the  church 
and   shook   hands  a  good  deal,  an.i  then   rode  on   the 
troop  after  us.  to  Lytton,  where  U.  ordered  beef 'and 


J 


-If]        n 

1:       : 

-.1  > ! 


300 


MY  CANADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XVI 


Mi   i 


flour  for    he  Indians.     Here  the  whites  had  an  address 
and  an  arch,  and  we  stopped  a  few  moments 

After  we  left  it  the  Indians  followed  f<,r  some  wav 
and  we  handed  out  tobacco  to  the  women  whTJ  e 
nearest,  young  and  old  being  glad  of  it 

Vou   can't  think    what   a  pretty   sight   it  was !     We 
ere  two  large  coaches-and-four,  and  a  great  procession 

after  u  .  1  he.r  horses  are  very  small,  but  very  good 
ave  plenty  of  work,  and  are  never  ill.  J.st'before 
lunch  we  met  another,  smaller  troop  of  horse-men  and 
women  ;  one  girl,  with  a  yellow  handkerchief  on  her 
head,  was  very  tall,  and  looked  very  handsome  as  she 
rode  along. 

We  have  now  left  the  Fraser  River,  and  are  on  the 
Ihompson.     I  nu.st  tell  you  about  some  Indian  graves 
we  .saw  on  the  way.     One  was  a  lean-to  shed,  under  which 
tlie  body  or  bodies  were   laid,  and  in  front  of  the  grave 
were  three  tin  pans;  outside  the  shed,  facing  the  road 
stood   three   wooden    figures,  a   man   and   two    women 
dres.sed  up  m  the  clothes  of  the  deceased.     On  a  tree 
close  by  hung  a  quantity  of  horse-skms.     When  a  man 
d.es,   h,s  friends  eat  a  few  of  his  horses,  and  hang  up 
he.r  skms,  so  that  he  may  ride  upon  them  to  the  Happy 
i^and.     Another  grave  we  saw  was  surrounded  by  a  pal- 
'ng,  .ns.de  of  which  was  a  figure  of  a  woman,  dressed,  a 
small  cross  by  her  side.* 

We  arrived  at  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cornwall's  house  after  a 
twelve  hours'  drive,  and  in  a  pouring  rain,  rather  tired. 
I  am  sorry  to  say  Mr.  Cornwall  is  not  at  home,  having 
most  unfortunately  had  a  very  bad  accident  on  his  way 
here  to  prepare  for  us.     His  horse  shied  on  the  road  over 


*  We  heard  afterwards  that  these  figures  had  had  new  cotton  dressc. 
put  on  them  \\\  our  honor. 


cotton  dresses 


SEPT.  1876  A    CAVALCADE   OF  INDIANS.  3^^ 

Which  we  have  just  come,  and  he  went  over  a  precipice 
happUy  ,n  one  of  the  least  dangerous  places  to  be  fiund 

rolIeHH ""''•.  'T''  '''   '^'^'  "'"'^   his    companion 

rolled  down  twenty-five  feet,  and  escaped  with  a  few 
scratches.  Mr.  Cornwall  had  to  be  taken  back  to  Vic- 
toria to  have  th.  leg  set.  Mrs.  Cornwall  has  a  very 
young  baby,  and  her  brother  and  sister-in-law  are  help- 
ing her  to  do  the  honors.  They  have  made  D.  and  me 
very  comfortable  in  their  house,  and  were  most  kind. 
1  he  rest  of  the  party  are  lodged  elsewhere 

Saturday,  gth.-W^  left  the  Cornwalls'  before  10  a  m 
and  agam  embarked  in  our  coaches.     At  last   the  sun 
shone  upon  us  and  we  were  able  to  dismiss  from  our  minds 
all  thoughts  of  umbrellas  and  waterproofs.     The  country 
here  .s  very  curious:    there  are  low   hills  and  rolling 
Pla.ns  wh.ch  to  a  stranger  look  barren,  but  which  really 
suppor   catt  e  al   the  year  round,  and  certainly  produce 
he  be  t  beef  and  mutton  I  ever  ate.     One  carries  away 
romth.s  d.stnct  the  idea  of  a  great  sandhill  of  a  yeN 
lovvsh  tmge,  cut  into  terraces,  valleys,  mounds,  and  ap- 
parently  carved  all  over  by  ancient  watercourses      CoTd 
it  be  ungated,  the  land  would  be  very  valuable;  but  as 
.t  |s  there  .s  scarcely  any  cultivation,  and  the  only  crop 
.  bunch  g,ass      Though  it   produces  such  good  beef,  ? 
can     tell  you  how  many  acres  it  requires  to  feed  one  cow 
and  the  an.n.al  has  quite  a  walk   to   take  between  one 
tuft  of  grass  and  another. 

We  had  not  left  our  starting-point  long  when  all  the 
ors  o    t  e  ran.bow  on  horseback  appeared  before 
and,  w.th  shouts  and  drums  and  neighing  of  horses,  we 
were  surrounded  by  a  cavalcade  of  Indians.     The  next 
Half-hour  was  one  of  the  greatest  exc.tement.  '  I  n  ve 
saw  anythn,g  so  delightful  as  the  sight  of  these  men 
women,   and    children,   waving   their  'flags.   X^oTJZk 
iuais   gahup.ng   up   and    down    the    low    hills,    around 


302 


MV  CAXADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVI 

us,   While    our    two    coaches    drove    steadily   alonjr   the 
road.  e>       >- 

Some  of  the  figures  were  most  interesting  to  watch 
Ihere  was  one  man  with   a  square  drum,  which  he  beat 
as  he  galloped  along,  his  legs  keeping  time,  and  his  body 
danc.ng   on    the  saddle.     The  chief  was  a  remarkabl^ 
handsome  old  man,  with  a  majestic  air  and  a  fine  seat 
on  horseback.     He  wore  a  red  uniform,  and  the  whole 
costume  was,  strange  to  say,  complete,  and  unspoiled  by 
any  vagary  of  his  own  taste.     Another  wore  a  blue  coat 
deer-skm  leggings,  and  a  fur  cap,  and  carried  a  scepter 
mounted  with  silver.     Several  women  had  babies  before 
them,  and  bigger  children  tied  on  behind;  and  you  may 
.magme  how  the  baby's  head  wagged  as  its  mother  gal- 
loped along!     The  people  ride  splendidly,  and  I  did  so 
enjoy  seeuig  them  scampering  over  the  ground. 

After  much  cantering  and  skirmishing  we  arrived  at 
an  mn  and  a  shop,  where  we  got  out  of  the  coach  to  speak 
to  the  people,  and  to  buy  them  flour,  sugar,  and  tobacco 
_       Ihese  Indians  are  very  bright  and   intelligent-look- 
ing.     \\e  shook  hands  with  a  great  many  of  them,  and 
particularly  admired  the  "  British  General  "-the  hand- 
some  chief  I  told  you  of.     I  looked  to  see  if  the  babies- 
heads  were  all  right,  and  I  found  one  poor  old  lady  who 
had    been  galloping  along  in  this  furious  fashion  with 
her  hand  and  arm  swelled  with  rheumatism.     I  got  her 
a  warm  shawl  at  the  store.     The  whole  assembly  fol- 
owed  us  a  mile  or  two  farther,  when  they  collected  on 
tlie  top  of  a  small  hill,  waved  their  flags,  and  disappeared 
Four  of  them_a  woman  and  three  men-came  on  the 
whole  .     -    - 


Aft 


way  to  the  Lake. 


passing  through  arid  plains,  we  suddenly  came 
upon  a  glassy  sheet  of  water,  into  which,  and  out  of 
which,  the  river  Thompson  flowed.  We  got  on  b( 
steamer,  and  as  usual  found  every  comfort  and  1 


got  on  board  a 


uxury 


SEPT.  1876 


ICAMLOOPS. 


30:; 


onThetfb^  "'•  f"'""^  '"  ""  ^"^'"^'  '^"^'^^  «f  Poetry 
on    he  tables,  rock.ng-chairs,  and  jrood  beds 

aL^t?     r,  • """    ""''    '"^'   '^^    ^he    river    we    saw  a 
quant  ty  of  wh.te  men  and   Indians  on  horseback,  and 
us    as  we  were  gouig:  to  land   our  attention  was  called 
to  the  other  bank  (we  had    got    into  the    Thompson) 
where  about  five  hundred  wild  horses  were  being  drive 
down  to  the  water.     D.  landed,  and  drove  up  ,n  a  car- 
nage-and-four  to  a  platform,  where  he  found  me  (I  hav- 
ing walked   up)  and  some  other  ladies.     The  platform 
was  close  to  an  arch,  and  the  carnage  was  surrounded 
b>  all  the  people  on  horseback.     I  was  presented  with  a 
bouquet  by  a  young  lady  who  had  been  a  school-girl  at 

and  uncles  hve  here,  and  our  meeting  was  quite  exciting 
I  here  were  addresses,  etc.,  and  D.  went  a  short 
drive,  and  then  returned  to  the  steamer,  where  the  In- 
dians followed  him,  and  stood  on  the  banks  chanting  a 
sort  of  psalm.  *" 

A  deputation  kept  His  Excellency  for  some  tmie,  and 
Ah  Sam  (our  cook)  got  so  impatient,  and  so  fearful  that 
his  dinner  would  be  spoiled,  that  in  spite  of  everyone  he 

to  go       ""  ^""^^  ^"^'""  '  ''"  ^''"^'  "'  ^  '^'"^  ^"  ^he  people 

I  must  tell  you  that  a  lady  at  Kamloops  was  warned 

n  a  dream  to  give  me  a  beautiful  pin,  made  of  a  nugget 

(rmt  the  one  I  mentioned  before),  which  she  accordingly 

W<,,,  7o./.-_We  had  prayers  before  breakfast  in 
the  cabin,  and  soon  after  steamed  across  to  the  opposite 
shore  to  visit  the  Indians.  ' 

There  was  rather  an  interesting  "  Tow-wow."  They 
have   h.id   a    hinfl    — : ■       .,  .  Ancy 


seri 


k^e  had  a  land    griev 


ance   in  this  province,  which 


ous  to  them,  and  they  set  it  before  the  G 


IC 


overnor- 


^    1 


304 


My  CANADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XVI 


General  in  a  very  grave  and  dignified  manner.     They 
seemed  ])leased  to  have  the  opportunity  of  seeing  him, 
and,  although   he  made  them  no  promises,  I  thinic  they 
felt  that  they  had   secured  a  friend  at  court.     The  con- 
versation over,  D.,  Fred,  and  Colonel  Littleton  mounted 
some  of  the  Indian  horses  in  order  to  visit  the  Reserve 
and  although  they  did  not  fmd  the   Mexican  saddles  at 
all    comfortable,    they   enjoyed   their   ride   very   much. 
"  Louie,"  the  chief,  showed   them  all  his  carrots,  onions^ 
potatoes,  etc.,  and,  once  the  "  Pow-wow  "  was  over,  be- 
came very  cheerful,  and  made  them  gallop  along  at  a 
great  pace. 

They  returned  for  lunch,  and  afterwards  rode  again 
on  the  Kamloops  side  of  the  lake.  D.  got  a  long  way 
up  the  hill,  and  had  a  good  view  of  the  country,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  party  walked.  Mr.  Dewdney  and  Mr. 
Vernon  dined  with  us. 

I  must  tell  you  a  story  of  Ah  Sam.  Captain  Layton 
had  slept  on  shore  last  night,  but  as  we  start  very  early 
to-morrow  he  wished  to  have  a  cabin  in  the  steamer,  so 
he  said  to  Ah  Sam :  "  You  take  your  mattress,  and  put 
it  on  the  floor  somewhere,  as  I  am  going  to  sleep  here 
to-night."  "  Oh,"  says  Ah  Sam,  "  me  workee  hard,  Cap- 
tain Layton  no  work ;  me  want  good  bed ;  if  Captain 
Layton  get  in  first,  he  have  it ;  if  me  g-t  in  first,  me  have 
It."  So  at  nine  o'clock  the  whole  saloon  was  disturbed 
by  the  snores  of  Ah  Sam,  who  retired  very  early  indeed 
to  make  sure  of  keeping  the  bed.  He  is  a  great  char- 
acter, and  always  takes  his  boots  off  in  tne  coach,  lest 
he  should  be  made  to  walk  up  the  hills. 

Monday,  iit/t.—l  was  awoke  by  the  stern-wheel,  which 
is  immediately  behind  my  cabin,  and  which  shakes  one 
more  than  any  screw.  We  were  starting,  and  about 
seven  we  stopped  at  a  place  where  most  of  the  party 
landed  to  shout ;  the  steamer  weiu  on,  and  the  Commo- 


L^M 


CH.  XVI 

ner.     They 
seeing  him, 

think  they 

The  con- 

in  mounted 

le  Reserve, 

saddles  at 
cry  much. 
)ts,  onions, 
s  over,  be- 
along  at  a 

rode  again 

long  way 

y,  and  the 

:y  and  Mr. 

in  Layton 
very  early 
teamer,  so 
s,  and  put 
leep  here 
lard,  Cap- 
f  Captain 
:,  me  have 
disturbed 
•ly  indeed 
eat  char- 
oach, lest 

eel,  which 
akes  one 
nd  about 
the  party 
;  Commo- 


SEPT.  1876      DOfV.V   THE    TIIOMPSOX  RIVER. 


m 


305 


dore  and  I  breakfasted  at 


ine,  and  went  out  fishing  at 


Savernagh's  Ferry,  in  the  Thompson  River.     The  trout 
wv^re  only  just  beginning  to  rise  when  the  steamer  whis- 
tled for  us,  and  we  had  to  go  back.     The  s 
had  a  beautiful  walk,  and  brought  home  fi 
brace  of  the  "  sharp-tailed  gro 
our  morning  very  much. 


e  sjjortsmen  had 
ve  and  a  half 
ise,"  and  we  all  enjoyed 


We  embarked  at  noon  in  our  coach,  and  parted  with 
the  Chief-Justice  at  Cache  Creek, on  his  way  to  Cariboo 
I  then  got  on  the  box  (or  "  fore-top,"  as  we  call  it,  having 
just  come  from  the  Amethyst)  to  see  Mr.  Tingley  drive  • 
this  was  an  easy  part  of  the  road,  so  I  thought  it  a  good 
place  to  take  a  front  seat. 

We  got  to  Mr.  Cornwall's  at  six,  and  all  dined  there 
I>.  and  I  remaining  to  sleep.  We  had  a  most  lovely 
day.  ^ 

Tuesday,  i2th.-\\^  got  away  early;  a  beautiful 
bright  morning.  On  the  road  we  met  many  Indians  and 
gave  away  much  tobacco  and  shook  hands  a  good  deal 
The  old  ladies  are  so  animated;  they  shake  both  hands 
before  you,  talking  all  the  time,  and  r,,minue  the  mo- 
tion with  head  and  hands,  when  -  give  them  tobacco, 
saying,  or  rather  making  a  noise  like,  "tu-choo." 

At  Lytton  we  caught  up  the  second  coach;  some  of 
the  passengers  had  felt  the  heat  so  much  that  it  made 
them  sick,  but  we  did  not  mind  it  at  all.  D.,  the  Colo- 
nel, and  the  Commodore  stopped  and  bathed  in  the 
Thompson.  We  are  returning  the  same  way  we  came 
and  are  enjoying  the  beautiful  scenery  in  the  fine 
weather.  Having  plenty  of  time  to  spare,  ana  passing 
one  of  those  fishing-stations  I  told  you  of,  we  scrambled 
down  the  bank  to  see  the  man  at  work.  His  implement 
was  like  a  very  long  landing-net,  and  he  stood  on  the 
most  rickety  little  spring-board  pK-.tform  over  the  rush- 
mg  stream,  and  put  his  net  into  the  water,  drawing  it 


■;:ij 


3o6 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVI 


down  stream  as  far  as  he  could  reach  ;  when  he  felt  a 
fish  in  it,  he  let  go  a  string,  which  allowed  the  net  to 
run  down  the  frame,  and  to  shut  up  the  fish  in  a  regular 
bag.  Our  gentlemen  tried  to  do  it,  but  they  nearly 
tumbled  into  the  river,  and  could  not  manage  it  at  all. 

I  again  got  on  the  box,  and  drove  over  the  worst 
piece  of  the  road— such  awful  turns,  and  such  a  preci- 
pice at  the  edge  of  the  narrow  road!  It  certainly  re- 
quires good  driving,  and  the  coachman  has  to  work  hard 
all  the  time.  We  reached  our  camp  at  si.x,  and  in  an 
hour  were  at  dinner  and  a  splendid  camp-fire. 

Wednesday,  ijt/i.—i  got  up  at  six  to  look  out  at  a  cu- 
rious effect  of  fog.  We  are  about  800  feet  above  the 
river.  The  morning  was  bright  and  lovely,  all  the 
mountains  clear,  and  an  extensive  view  lay  before  me; 
but  when  1  looked  down  at  the  Fraser,  instead  of  its 
muddy  stream  I  beheld  a  beautiful  river  of  soft  cloud  ! 
This  layer  of  fog  must  have  been  200  or  300  feet  thick, 
as  we  could  tell  by  the  trees  on  the  banks,  and  it  was 
the  prettiest  thing  I  ever  saw  in  the  way  of  mist. 

We  had  a  very  successful  journey  back  to  Yale,  and 
D.  and  I  sat  on  the  box  for  the  last  hour  of  the  way. 
The  driver  and  all  the  Yaleites  were  delighted  that  we 
had  enjoyed  the  trip,  and  were  not  frightened  ;  and  the 
coachman's  testimony  to  my  courage  during  the  perilous 
drive  to  Kamloops  was  "  that  I  hadn't  a  scare  in  me." 
We  drove  down  to  the  steamer  Jioyai  City,  and  had  the 
Oppenheims  to  dine  with  us. 

Thursday,  14th.— '\\\q  stern-wheel  awoke  us  about  6 
A.M.  It  gives  the  most  odious  motion  to  the  steamer. 
About  eleven  we  got  to  Now  Westminster,  which  I), 
thinks  should  be  the  terminus  of  the  new  Pacific  Rail- 
way, and  the  Mayor  came  on  board,  and  presented  nie 
with  photographs  of  all  the  arches.  The  Commodore 
left  us  here,  and  wc  went  on  a  iiiiie  farther  to  join  the 


SEPT. 1876 


VICTORIA. 


307 


Douglas,  upon  which  steamer   I    have  been  scribblinj? 
this.  * 

We  had  a  very  smooth  passage  of  about  twenty  miles 
to  Victoria,  where  we  found  it  raining  heavily.  This 
only  made  our  drawing-room,  with  its  fire  and  lights 
look  more  than  ever  comfortable  after  all  our  traveling- 
and  then  the  delight  of  finding  a  mail  waiting,  and  a 
nice  quiet  hour  for  reading  our  letters  ! 

Friday,  /j//..--Fred  Ward,  who  is  "  housekeeper.-  has 
ordered  up  the  prisoners  from  the  Penitentiary  to  "  pluck 
chickens"  for  the  ball;  it  is  the  custom  he^e,  and  this 
morning,  when  we  walked  into  the  ball-room,  we  found 
SIX  prisoners,  with  chains  to  their  legs,  and  an  armed 
man  standing  over  them,  polishing  the  floor. 

D.  was,  as  usual,  shut  up  with  some  argumentative 
Victorian  till  4.30  p.  m.,  when  I  got  him  out  for  a  little 
drive,  and  we  walked  home. 

Saturday,  /(^//..  _  After   lunch    we  went   to   a   rifle- 
match.      His   Ex.  gave  away  his  medals,  and   we   saw 
sonie  -company"  there.      The   Commodore  joined   us 
and  we  walked  home.     In  the  evening  we  attended  an 
amateur  concert. 

Monday,  /cf///._Prisoners  all  busv,  preparing  for  the 
ball.  Fred  brought  the  head  gardener  into  the  drawing, 
room  to  give  him  some  duections  about  flowers  and 
was  about  to  take  him  to  the  dining-room,  when  he'said, 
"leant  leave  that  man  here;  he's  a  convict."  There 
was  a  storm  last  night,  and  the  weather  looks  bad 

We  visited  the  High  School,  received  an  address, 
and  replied.  D.  presented  some  medals  for  competition 
which  were  unexpected,  and  gave  great  pleasure.  We 
then  called  upon  the  ex-f.overnor,  Mr,  Trutch,  to  see 
h.s  mother,  an  old  lady  of  seventy-seven.  who  is  dving 
to  come  to  the  baJK  but  can  not  get  her  dortor'.s  per 
mission  to  do  so.  I  rested  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  seven 
01 


308 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURXAL, 


CH.  xvr 


■  f 

If 


t  n 


m  I  i  I 


we  had  a  very  merry  little  dinn 


was  a  rumor  that  tlie  great  Ah  Sam 


er  in  a  small  room.    There 


th 


was  drunk,  and  that 


lie  supper  would   be  very  bad;  but  the  dinner  was  all 
right,  so  we  felt  some  hope.    'I'he  guests  were  invited  at 
8.30,  and  soon  after  nine  1).  and  I  came  down  to  open 
the  ball.     'J'he  room  is  a  very  nice  one,  and  we  had  had 
all  the  windows  taken  out,  and  a  sort  of  corridor  tent  of 
canvas,  lined  with  flags,  put  up  the  whole  way  round  the 
outside,  which  added  greatly  to  the  available  space.     I 
must   say   I   enjoyed  the   ball   very  much,  and  I   think 
every  one  else  did.     \\c  all  danced  from  9.30  till  three 
without  intermission,  and  as  fathers,  mothers,  daughters 
.'Hul  sons  are  all   eiiually  dancing-mad   here,  and  as  we 
iKid  a  great  number  of  naval  officers,  and  were  in  our- 
selves  an  element  of  novelty  to  the  Victorians,  and  they 
were  new  to  us,  there  was  a  great  deal  of  spirit  in  the 
ball.    When  every  one  else  had  gone,  we  had  .some  more 
supper  and  a  talk  ;  the  former  was  very  good,  and  Ah 
Sam  had  been  maligned. 

Tiu's^iay,  iQtli.~\\^  breakfasted  at  eleven,  and  had  to 
start  immediately  after  for  the   Ks(|uimauU  Dockyard- 
the  Commodore   '  cut   on   first,  and   received   us  there 
with  the  officials  belonging  to  it.     I),  was  to  drive  in  the 
first  pile  of  a  new  dry  dock ;  and  when  this  ceremony 
whH-h  was  performed  by  the  aid  of  steam,  was  accom' 
plished.  we   went   over  the   stores,  and   then   to   lunch. 
The  croquet-ground  was  covered  in  with  sails  and  flr.gs 
and  the  tables  were  laid  on  it.     Our  health  was  drunk,' 
and  D.'s  reply  was  very  successful,  containing  a  little 
chaff  about  the  way  in  which  he  has  been  shut  up  every 
and  all  day  with  the  male  i)ortion  of  the  population  of 
Victoria— which  amused  them  immensely. 

When  ail  was  over  we  went  to  see  the  Rocket~vi  gun- 
boat— and  then  drove  home,  the  Commodore  returninff 
to  the  Atit^fh-^sf^  ° 


1'       t ' 


SEPT.  1876 


SAA'  m A  A' CI  SCO. 


from 


yra/nrs<fay,  ^o///._Si,ch  a  day  of  labor  !    D 
-  7  A.  M.  preparing  for  a  very  importa 


309 

fery  busy 
1  ,        "      •         .=       -    -    .-.^  ■■.■|)ortant  snccch  •  at 

eleven  the  deputation  can.e,  and  he  spoke  till  .'  ,„  .  t'hen 
lunch,  and  off  .0  the  Cathedral  to  attend  the  chris  en  n^ 
of  a  baby-.,  frcderiok  Ten.ple  Cornwall."    -ihen  ,"0 

a  pubhc  p,cn,c  on  Deacon  I there  were  numbers 

people  there,  and  we  stayed  an  hour,  and  said  go  d-  y 
to  all  we  knew.  Fred  and  I  then  came  on  board  the 
Atnet  ivst,  and  I)   wpnt  h-if-i-  f^  n 

fh  .t  .1;  V  ^°  f'overnment  House  to  see 

hat  the  speech  was  ready  for  the  press.  Some  mistake  had 
been  made  n.  reporting  it,  and  he  found  it  in  such  hope- 
less  confus.on  that  he  did  not  get  away  till  quite  late,  miss- 
.ng  the  dmner  on  board,  and  half  the  ,)erformance  which 
was  g.ven  for  us.  Th,.  fficers  had  got  up  some  songs  and 
g  ces  and  afterw  we  had   some  Christy   Minstrels, 

which  were  ver;  .ng. 

Thursday^  ^y.^.-The  morning  was  lovely,  and  D.. 
havmg  finished  ins  business,  was  able  to  enjoy  himself: 
Ihe  Commodore  took  me  for  a  row,  and  he  went  on 
board  the  Dou^Uu,  where  there  was  a  party  to  see  us  off. 
A\e  started  at  twelve,  accompanied  by  the  little  steamer, 
and  had  much  waving  of  handkerchiefs  before  parting 
with  her.  '  ** 

I  regret  to  say  that  I  was  not  able  to  appear  at  din- 
ner, and  that,  one  !,y  one,  tho.sc  who  sat  down  disap- 
peared from  the  table.  We  had  a  very  rough  night,  and 
naif  the  officers  and  sailors  were  ill. 

The  mail  steamer  Dakota  started  an   hour  after  us 
bent  upon  beating  us.  ' 

Saturday,  -?j,/.-Heautiful  weather,  and  all  decidedly 
better.  - 

San  Franmco:  Sunday,  ^.////.-Anchored  at  7   a  m 
and  have  won  the  race  against  the  Dakota.    We  stayed  on 
Bnarr,  ,or  chunh,  and  then  said  u  temporary  "  good-by  " 
to  the  ship  and  her  officers,  and  came  ashore  to  the  hotel. 


P 


i 


i^jj 


3IO 


AfV  CANADI^iN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVI 


Monday,  2^^th. — At  twelve  o'clock  we  went  on  board 
the  Amethyst  a^ain,  the  ward-room  officers  having  asked 
us  to  lunch  win  them.     They  are   all  so  civil  and  kind, 
and  received  us  most   hospitably;  we  are  sorry  to  part. 
After  our  farewells  were  made  to  our  hosts,  we  set  off 
again,  accompanied  by  the  Commodore,  on  another  little 
expedition.     General  McDowell  met  us,  and  we  went  by 
train    with  him  southward  for  an  hour;  at  the  station 
we  had  a  carriage-and-four,  and  drove  to  the  house  of  a 
Mr.  Mills.     This   w^as  to  show   us  a  Californian  home; 
and  certainly,  after  passing   through  the  sandy  hills,  it 
was  refreshing  to  come  upon  a  little  oasis  of  brilliant 
green,  and    tropical   plants.     The    house  was  as  nice  a 
show-house  as  I   have  seen :    some  good   pictures,  and 
bedrooms   really    liveable   in,   in   spite   of    magnificent 
monograms  in  the  center  of   each   pillow-case.     All  the 
country  round  looks  burned  up,  and  yellow  and  sandy, 
while  the  place  itself  is  fresh,  green,  gay  with  flower-neds, 
and  dignilicd  by  very  handsome  evergreen  oaks  and  enor- 
mous bay-trees.     We  had  to  hurry  away  from  it,  and  get 
into  our  carriage,  to  drive  to  Mr.  .Sharon's. 

It  was  too  late  for  us  to  see  the  grounds,  but  I  am 
now  in  a  position  to  tell  you  something  of  a  Californian 
merchant's  home,  and  society. 

The  house  was  built  by  a  certain  Mr.  Ralston,  and  on 
his  death  it  became  the  property  of  his  partner,  Mr. 
Sharon,  who  was  a  miner,  has  twice  been  a  millionaire, 
and  twice  has  lost  all,  this  being  his  third  enjoyment  of 
a  great  fortune.  He  owns  a  gigantic  hotel,  another  al- 
most as  big  in  San  Francisco,  a  large  house  in  town,  this 
country  place,  and  a  big  house  at  Washington,  not  to 
mention  various  little  mines  and  railways ;  and  he  is  here 
considered  as  the  merchant-prince  of  'Frisco. 

We  vere  shown  into  the  hall,  which  at  first  gave 
the  impression  of  a  small  house,  though  opening  into 


SEPT.  1876 


A    CALIFORNIAN  BALL. 


311 


large  corridors;  it  seems  as  though  originally  there  were 
two   sitting-rooms,   and    that   a    hail-room  and  supper- 
room,  a  place  for  the  dancers  to  llirt  in,  and  a  cf)rndor 
had  all  been  added.  ' 

Everything  opens  into  everything,  -vith  sliding,  muf- 
fled windows;  and  nothing  is  imi)osing.     The  ball-room 
IS  a  good  room  and  pretty,  but  the  nicest  feature  of  the 
house  is  a  sort  of  sitting-room  upstiiirs,  on  to  which  the 
bedrooms  open.     We  were  immediately  taken  there,  and 
told  not  to  dress  for  dinner  (our  servants  had  brought 
on  our  ball  things) ;  so   we  were  soon  down  again,  and 
were   introduced  to  the  company   in   the   house.      The 
guests  are  General  Sherman,  a   very  pleasing  man,  and 
Mr.  Cameron*  and  his  daughter,  a  ladylike  and  hand- 
some girl.     General  McDowell  does  most  of  the  honors, 
and  he  marshaled  us  in  to  dinner,  I  going  with  our  host, 
Mr.  Sharon,  a  very  quiet  little  man.     I  told  him  I  liked 
h'3  hotel,  and  I  tried  to  look  as  if  $i4,ooo,ooo,ooo-a 
sum  he  named— conveyed  a  definite  idea  to  my  mind. 
There  was  no  plate,  no  ornament,  no  china  on  the  table, 
no  luxury  whatever  here.     No  tabic  could  have  looked 
less  wealthy,  and  the  dinner  itself  was  simple.     I  only 
saw  part  of  it,  however,  for  I  was  sudden  I  v  told  to  go 
and  dress,  and  accordingly  off  we  ladies  weiit  to  prepare 
for  the  ball. 

The  ball  guests  were  coming  by  train,  and  nothing 
was  done  until  they  did  come,  which  Wc's  an  hour  and  a 
half  after  I  was  ready,  so  Mr.  Cameron  gave  me  an  arm. 
and  walked  me  up  and  down  the  corridors,  and  sat  me 
down  occasionally,  and  took  me  uj)  again  and  round 
again. 

The  train  did  at  last  arrive,  and  with  it  the  company 
•—ladies  first.     I  observed  a  great  latitude  as  to  the 


ii 


•Mr.  Cameron,  at  that  time  Minister  of  War  in  the  United  Sulet. 


312 


My  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVI 


A 


Style  of  dress  worn.    There  were  low  dresses  and  square 
dresses,  velvet,  merino,  morning  silks,  and  regular  ball- 
gowns;  every  one  seemed  to  appear  just  as  they  pleased 
1  here  were  girls  who  would  have  been  pretty  but  for 
the  paint   and   powder,   which  was  laid  on  thick,   and 
sprinkled  over  the  hair  just  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
spoil  It.     I  asked  some  one  afterwards  whether  she  con- 
sidered that  paint  was  de  n^ucur  here,  as  I  saw  it  was  so 
much  used,  and  she  told   me  it  was   used  by  girls  to  a 
great  extent.     I  said,  "  Do  they  acknowledge  that  they 
pamt  ?••     She  said,  "  Not  paint ;  powder."      There  is  no 
deception  about  it,  however,  for  it  is  thick. 

The  dancing  is  different  to  ours-the  square  dances 
an  improvement,  I  think— much  more  lively,  and  much 
delightful  courtesying  and  bowing  going  on.  I  danced 
the  opening  quadrille,  and  was  much  amused ;  the  band- 
master stood  close  to  me,  and  called  out  the  orders, 
"  Ladies  '  chain,  set  to  partners,  cross,"  etc.,  in  a  loud 
voice.  The  waltzes  are  slow,  and  there  is  a  particular 
way  of  holding  your  partner,  which  I  don't  admire. 

There  was  no  tea-room  ;  the  only  refreshments  were 
for  the  gentlemen-a  large  bowl  of  punch,  brandy,  gin, 
and  champagne ;  the  table  was  in  one  of  the  recesses  of 
the  corridors,  and  the  men  sat  and  drank  and  smoked 
there.  At  twelve  Mr.  Sharon  came,  and  told  me  it  was 
time  "for  lunch,"  and  I  went  with  him  into  the  dining- 
room,  to  the  top  of  the  table,  where  .i  small  round  one 
and  a  chair  were  placed  for  me ;  the  others  stood.  The 
only  ornamentations  on  the  table  were  sugar  ships. 

Everyone  was  most  kind  to  us,  and  Mr.  Sharon  took 
USUI  his  carriage  to  the  train,  in  which  we  returned  with 
the  rest  of  the  company  to  San  Francisco.  When  we  got 
into  our  carriage  at  the  station  we  had  a  good  laugh. 
It  was  a  large  sort  of  coach,  but  four  was  the  number 
intended  to  be  inside.     "We  sat  three  on  a  seat :  D.,  the 


SEPT.  1876 


GIVING  A'AMES. 


313 


Commodore,  and  I  on  one,  and  three  people  opposite  to 
us,  when,  to  our  astonishment,  an  extra  bench  was  put 
down  between  us,  and  two  ladies  came  in  and  sat,  one 
partly  on  His  F:x.'s  knee  and  partly  on  the  bench';  the 
other,  after  trying  my  lap,  happily  moved  on  to'  the 
Commodore's. 

At  Mr.  Sharon's  my  maid  met  some  Clandeboye  and 
Bangor  people;  one  maid-servant  told  her  she  should 
go  home  as  soon  as  she  could  s^U  out  her  "Stocks  "  at 
100.     She  had  benight  in  at  18,  and  now  they  are  85. 

Tuesday,  26th.  — Mitx  breakfast  Fred  Ward  and  I 
went  to  church  fur  the  purpose  of  standing  as  godfatlier 
and  godmother  to  Francis  Ward's  babv,  who  was  born 
the  day  we  reached  'Frisco. 

When  we  met  the  baby  in  church  her  name  was  not 
chosen;  but  they  wanted  one  to  go  with  Mav,  and  when 
I  suggested  Muriel  tiicy  were  delighted;  so  Muriel  May 
she  was  called.  I  held  her  the  whole  service,  and  as  she 
was  awake  I  Lad  to  nurse  her,  and  to  do  the  "  goose- 
step,"  all  the  time. 

Mr.  Miller,  navigating -lieutenant  of  the  Amcthvst 
came  to  lunch  with  us,  and  brought  the  charts,  in  order 
that  we  might  choose  some  anonymous  places  to  which 
we  might  give  names.  Vou  will  be  interested  to  hear 
that  future  maps  will  show  the  "  Dufferin  Range  "  and 
the  "  Countess  of  Dufferin  Range  "  of  mountains.  "  Duf- 
ferin  Island."  "  Chatfield  Island,"  "  Hamilt.m  Cape  " 
"  Littleton  Cape,"  "Ward  C>e";  and  Mr.  Miller  is  to 
be  immortalized,  too. 

There  are  "  no  end  "  of  mountains. 


had  no  names  befo 


re. 


and  the  ranges 


We  asked  our  rejiorters  to  dine  with  us,  and  they,  our- 


selves, and  the  ("ommodore  had  a  most  doli-iiif|,| 

ing.    D.  and  I  quite  agree  we  would  1 

journey  for  the  sake  of  seeing  the  Chinese  Theatre. 


even- 
lavo  cnnuj  th.rj  wlioje 


» 


314 


My  CANADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XVI 


.'   f 


We  went  there  with  the  necessary  appendage  of  a 
policeman,  and  had  a  box  next  to  that  of  Generals  Sher- 
man and  McDowell.     The  theatre  itself  is  quite  unorna- 
mented,  and  is  what  some  people  might  call  dirty;  but  I 
am  too  much  pleased  to  be  critical.     The  pit  was  quite 
full  of  Chinamen,  as  was  the  gallery,  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  place  set  apart  for  women,  where  about  fifty 
ladies  sat.      Our  boxes   were   opposite  to  them.      The 
stage  ran  right  across  the  theatre,  and  was  innocent  of 
side-wings  or  scenery.     There  were  two  doors,  with  a 
curtain  in  front  of  each;  the  band  sat  between   these 
doors,  and  the  actors  played  in  front  of  the  musicians. 
The  two  ends  of  the  stage  seemed  to  be  used  as  sitting, 
rooms  for  any  one  who  chose  to  "  walk  up." 

I  don't  know  whether  you  are  aware  that  a  Chinese 
play  is  not  an  affair  of  hours,  or  of  days,  but  of  months, 
and  that  you  can  have  about  six  hours  a  night  of  it  as 
long  as  it  lasts.  We  went  for  half  an  hour,  and  stayed 
two,  and  even  then  we  left  most  reluctantly. 

The  music  is  of  the  bagpipe  order,  but  not  so  loud, 
and  D.  was  charmed  with  the  minor  key  and  the  bar- 
baric tunes.  It  went  on  almost  the  whole  of  the  play, 
one  musician  at  a  time  taking  a  smoke  and  a  rest,  while 
the  actors  performed. 

When  we  arrived  the  stage  was  occupied  by  a  com- 
pany of  aristocratic  Chinamen,  and  it  was  evident  that 
an  important  council  was  being  held.  The  councilors 
were  magnificently  dressed  in  gold  and  embroidered 
satin  and  various-shaped  head-dresses,  and  their  man- 
ners were  splendid.  The  acting  u,e  might  consider  stagey, 
but  It  seems  to  suit  the  dress  and  the  people,  and  it  was 
delightful  to  see  them  walk,  or  move  their  arms,  and, 
above  all,  sit  down— they  did  it  with  such  an  air!  One 
gentleman  wore  two  enormous  drooping  feathers  in  his 
hat,  which  he  twirled  ju-   as  if  they  were  mustaches. 


SEPT.  1876 


THE   anXESE    THEATRE. 


315 


I  here  was  a  discussion,  partly  sung,  between  the  digni- 
taries, and  I  "guess  "  that  there  was  rebellion  going  on 
for  when  they  rose  the  party  divided  and  went  out  at 
separate  doors,  returning  again  with  soldiers  under  their 
respective  leaders. 

A  fight  then  took  place,  with  a  pirouette  between 
each  blow.  The  soldiers  were  plainly  dressed  (black 
Chinese  tunics  with  sashes),  but  their  chests  were  bare 
and  in  the  second  part  of  the  performance  one  gentle- 
man showed  so  much  of  his  manly  bosom  that  I  really 
thought  that,  in  his  ardor,  he  would  get  out  of  his 
sleeves. 

After  these  political  scenes  the  drama  became  more 
domestic,  and  a  lady  (a  man  dressed  as  such)  came  on 
She  had  the  most  modest  of  manners,  and  a  great  affecta^ 
tion  of  refinement;  she  begged  her  husband  not  to  join 
the  war,  but,  in  spite  of  her  prayer  and  that  of  his  mother- 
m-law,  he  went,  and  then  the  story  began  to  resemble 
that  of  "  Faust." 

Having  torn   ourselves  away  from   the  theatre    we 
went  to  the  cafe  opposite,  which  had  lanterns  hung  out- 
side.    We  found  music  and  gambling  going  on  upstairs, 
and  a  few  women  and  men  about,  who  instantly  offered  us 
chairs,  and  began  to  speak   English  to  us.     They  asked 
If  we  would  have  tea,  and  as  we  "  would,"  they  took  us 
into  an  adjoining  room,  laid  a  table,  and  all  collected 
round  us  talking.     Tlie  tea  was  delicious,  drunk  without 
cream  or  sugar  (the  latter  they  greatly  object  to),  and 
we  had  also  ginger  and   sweetmeats.     The  women  came 
behind  me,  and  touched  my  things,  and  were  especially 
interested  in  the  jet  on  my  cloak.     We  saw  opium-pipes 
and  water-pipes,  and  looked  at  the  women's  nails;  and 
the  men  laughed  and  said,  in  allusion  to  their  length 
"  They  lazy,  never  do  anything."    We  offered  to  pay,  but 
"  No,  no,  we  treat  you  " ;  so  we  effected  an  exchange  of 


.    f 


I 


3i6 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


I.  XVI 


~:  f j  M  1 


cards,  and  are  to  have  and  give  photographs.     D.  shook 
hands  with  a  lady,  who  instantly  hid  her  face  and  fled. 

Our  guide  next  took  us  to  see  the  "Joss  House,"  or 
Chinese  church.      We  passed    through  a  dark  passage, 
and   mounted  a  winding   stair  outside  a  house,  till  we 
reached  the  top  story,  where  we  found  the  place  of  wor- 
ship.    We  saw  it  by  the  light  of  two  candles  and  three 
night-lights  burning  in   front  of  idols.     It  is  not  at  all 
imposing,    being   small,  and    crowded    with  things;   no 
seats,   and    very    little    standing-room.       The    "  altar " 
stretches  across  the  building,  and  is  occupied  by  three 
miserable  gods  in  separate  divisions  ;  a  few  gimcracks 
are  placed  near  them— offerings  from  their  worshipers. 
The  only  thing  at  all  handsome  is  a  beautiful  piece  of 
carved  wood,  gilt,  which  evidently  portrays  an  allegorical 
subject,  and  which  stretches  in  front  of  the  entrance- 
door,  and  partially  screens  the  idols. 

This  ended  our  last  day  at  San  Francisco,  and  to- 
morrow the  return  journey  begins. 

We  said  good-by  to  the  Commodore  (Captain  Chat- 
field,  R.  N.),  who  has  been  very  kind  to  us  on  board  his 
ship,  and  a  very  pleasant  addition  to  our  society  ashore. 
You  will  see  that  I  was  not  bewildered  with  the  mag- 
nificence of  San  Francisco,  and  was  surprised  when  Mr. 
Cameron,  a  Cabinet  Minister  (but  a  man  who  has  not 
been  to  Europe),  told  me  that  when  he  was  asked 
"what  he  thought  of  San  Francisco,"  he  replied,  "I 
think  nothing;  I  am  simply  da/ed."  Of  course  the 
town  is  wonderful,  because  it  is  built  on  impossible  sand- 
hills. Chicago  is  to  me  much  more  splendid  and  mag- 
nificent;  but  in  reply  to  this  opinion  I  am  told,  "Oh! 
but  then,  so  far  West !  " 

Wednesday,  ^////.—We  had  to  leave  the  hotel  at  San 
Francisco  early,  and  to  cross  in  a  ferry  to  the  railway- 
station,  where  we  found  our  Pullman  ready  for  us ! 


SEPT.  1876 


SALT  LAKE   CITY. 


1^7 


The  day  was  very  warm  and  dusty,  and  the  grizzly 
bear  at  Colfax  looked  nitensely  miserable  with  the  heat 
He  received  grapes  thankfully.    Enormous  bunches  here 
are  to  be  had  for  five  cents. 

rW^^,^^V//.-On  the  Alkali  Plains;  weather  pleas- 
ant, but  the  acrid  dust  disagreeable  to  the  eyes 

Friday,    2<^th.-^\^  breakfasted  at  Ogden,  and    said 
good-by  to  1-red  Ward  there,  he  being  the  first  deserter 
from  our  party.     Then  we  started  for  Salt  Lake  City 
1  he  journey  of  two  hours  is   a   very   pretty  one.     Salt 
Lake  was  m   s.ght  almost  the  whole  way,  and  was  of  a 
deep,  bright  blue;  while  on  the  other  side  of  the  carriage 
the  hills  were  red  and  orange  and  brilliant  yellow  au- 
tumn  having  already   put    the   sumach    plant  into' her 
gorgeous  livery.     We  had  arranged  to  dine  at  the  hotel 
and  to  sleep  in  the  raihvay-car  ;  but    I  mav  tell  you  at' 
once  that  the  mosquitoes  took  possession  of  it  early  in 
the  evening,  and  that  we  accepted  our  defeat,  and  spent 
the  night  at  the  Gentile  Ho^el,  which   is  the  very  best 
lor  food  I  have  been  in  on  this  continent. 

The  city  is  certainly  a  wonderful  creation  The 
streets  are  very  broad,  so  that  the  tramway  which  runs 
down  the  middle  of  each  one  does  not  interfere  with 
ones  carriage-wheels.  At  the  side  runs  a  little  open 
stream  of  rapid-flowing,  clear  water-a  most  refreshing 
sight  in  a  naturally  very  dusty  place.  Green  trees  grow 
a  ong  the  banks  of  this  artificial  ditch,  and  the  watering 
of  the  arid  plain  is  the  greatest  work  the  Prophet  has 
performed. 

As  we  drove  from  the  station  to  the  Walker  House 
we  passed  a  pretty  villa,  with  a  garden  and  lawn  and 
fountain  m  front ;  and  this  afterwards  proved  to  be  the 
house  of  our  friend-that  is  to  say,  the  gentleman  to 
whom  we  had  brought  a  letter  of  introduction.  D  and 
I  went  there  later,  and  found  a  good  farmer  kind  of  man 


i 


318 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVI 


living  in  this  fine  house.  A  wife,  a  daughter,  a  friend, 
and  a  son  came  into  the  room,  and  I  became  very  im- 
patient when  I  found  that  nothing  but  European  wars 
ai  trifles  of  that  kind  were  to  be  talked  of;  we  could 
not  even  make  out  whether  our  host  was  a  Mormon  or 
not !  At  last  I  managed  to  suggest  to  D.  that  we  "  really 
must  be  going,"  and  then  our  host  asked  if  we  wished  to 
see  the  Tabernacle,  and  if  we  wished  an  interview  with 
Brigham  Young;  this  last  honor  we  declined.  D.  de- 
clares that  it  made  me  quite  irritable  even  to  be  in  his 
vicinity,  and  I  think  it  did. 

Our  friend  drove,  and  a  nephew  of  his  wife's  wei  t 
with  us  to  fetch  Fred  and  the  Colonel,  and  when  some 
bright  particular  Mormon  star  passed  the  carriage  stopped, 
and  D.  was  introduced.  The  gentlemen  jumped  out  for 
these  presentations,  and  it  was  when  left  alone  for  these 
few  seconds  that  I  picked  up  some  scraps  of  information. 
Her  Ex.,  in  a  violent  hurry,  to  young  man :  "  Hem — , 
is  Mr.  J.  a— gentile?"  Young  man,  smiling:  "No, 
but  I  am."  Second  opportunity:  "Has  Mr.  J.  more 
than  one  wife  ?  "  "  No  ;  she  is  my  aunt.  "  This  may  be 
called  an  evasion,  for  I  find  that  he  had  two,  and  has 
eighteen  children ;  but  the  second  lady  died,  and  the 
daughter  we  saw  was  her  child. 

I  was  introduced  to  a  few  people  too,  and  met  George 
Q.  Cannon,  an  M.  C,  a  polygamist,  an  apostle  (he  is 
buildinjj  a  very  fine  house  for  some  favored  lady) ;  and 
Olson  Pratt,  the  man  who  led  the  Mormons  to  the  Prom- 
ised Land,  and  who  is  one  of  the  cleverest  of  the  apostles. 

The  first  thing  to  be  seen  was  the  Tabernacle,  in 
front  of  which  a  temple  of  granite  is  being  built.  The 
service  will  be  held  there  when  the  congregation  is 
small;  but  it  seems  to  be  intended  principally  for  church 
ofiices  of  different  kinds,  and  I  suppose  they  will  have  a 
new  Endowment   House  in  it,  for  the  place  in  which  the 


SEPT.  1876 


MORMOX  BUILDIXGS. 


319 


marriages  are  now  performed  is  a  miserable  little  build- 
ing. 

The  Tabernacle  is  a  huge  and  hideous  edifice  with  a 
great  flat  dome.  There  is  no  support  to  the  arch  inside, 
of  which  fact  the  Mormons  are  proud.  It  holds  i2,ooJ 
people,  and  .ve  found  it  decorated  with  garlands  and 
hanging  bunches  of  flowers.  There  is  an  enormous  or- 
gan, which  we  heard  played  ;  and  from  Brigham  Young's 
pulpit  you  can  see  every  seat  in  the  vaf  .  ■  -ular  room. 
The  acoustic  properties  are  perfect. 

We  next  visited  "  Zion's  "  co-operitive  sto: ..  a  very 
large  place;  indeed,  the  shops  of  the  i  .v- a  ap^e  r  to  me 
to  be  remarkably  good.  Amelia  (Brigha.:  '3  most  power- 
ful wife)  was  in  the  shop,  but  unfortunately  we  did  not 
know  it  at  the  time,  and,  being  with  Mormons,  we  were 
not  told  any  gossip.  Our  driver  took  us  past  the  Ame- 
lia Palace,  a  fine  house  which  Brigham  is  now  building 
for  the  favorite.  Opposite  to  it  is  the  Lion  House 
where  she  and  other  ladies  now  reside,  and  the  Beehive' 
also  the  abode  of  the  Mrs.  Youngs.  ' 

A  wall  is  built  in  front  of  this  harem,  so  it  is  only 
when  the  various  gates  are  open  that  a  peep  in  is  to  be 
had.  The  only  real  evidence  of  polvgamy  to  be  seen 
by  the  stranger  is  the  multiplication  of  doors  to  a  gentle- 
man's house;  the  Mormons  are  certainly  shy  of  the  sub- 
ject with  "  gentiles,"  and  only  say,  "  That  is  Mr.  Cannon's 
house  ";  "  that  is  another  house  of  Mr.  Cannon's." 

We  visited  the  Theatre  and  the  Town-Hall,  and  then 
returned  to  dine  at  our  hotel.  I  believe  our  one  friend 
here  is  a  ''  wet  "  Mormon,  and  at  his  house,  where  we 
spent  the  evening,  we  only  met  one-wifed  men  The 
Governor  of  the  State  and  his  wife  went  with  us,  and 
on  arnvmg  there  we  found  every  one  sitting  in  a  circle 
close  round  the  walls  of  the  room.  Vve  took  our  places 
in  this  very  stiff  row,  and  I  kept  mine  all  the  time      D 


«i  >» 


I  1 


320 


A/y  CANADIAN-  JOVRN^iL. 


CH.  XVI 


managed  to  lift  his  chai 


\      Mi 


littl 


r  and  to  change  his  position  a 


e.     'I'here  were  some  officers  of  the  U.  S.  A 


rmy,  and 


some  of  our  host's  two  families,  also  a  Mr.  H.,  whose 
daughter  has  just  married  one  of  the  sons;  the  parents, 
when  they  found  their  children  had  been  to  the  Endow- 
ment House,  showed  their  want  of  faith  by  carrying 
them  off  to  a  registry  office,  and  insisting  upon  their 
going  through  a  legal  marriage.  Miss  H.  has  only  one 
father,  but  she  had  four  grandfathers.  'We  had  Mormon 
fruit,  Mormon  cake,  and  champagne,  handed  round  by  a 
Mormon  daughter  of  the  house. 

Our  hostess  was  quiet  and  rather  melancholy-looking 
—the  shadow  of  a  possible  colleague  over  her;  she  has 
not  been  out  of  the  town  for  twenty-two  years,  though 
her  daughters  have  been  to  Europe,  and  go  to  New 
York  ;  I  suppose  Mormon  husbands  think,  "  where  igno- 
rance is  bliss,"  etc. 

Saturday,  joth.—Wa  Iiad  to  leave  very  early  in  the 
morning,  and  were,  as  our  hotel-keeper  playfully  re- 
marked, ".sent  off  with  fireworks,"  the  illumination 
being  the  burning  of  a  rival  inn.  The  whole  roof  was 
on  fire,  and  the  goods  were  being  thrown  out  of  the 
window. 

We  breakfasted  at  Ogden,  and  then,  in  our  comfort- 
able  "  house-upon-wheels,"  began  to  ascend  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

Si/iKfav,  Octflhfr  Tst.~\\.  was  difficult  to  believe  that 
this  was  Sunday,  for  when  we  "rrived  at  Cheyenne  all 
was  bustle  at  the  railway-station,  and  in  the  town  the 
shops  were  open.  The  only  Sabbath  "  look  was  given 
to  the  place  by  the  laziness  of  the  men,  who  sat  about 
and  drank  beer.  The  "  West  "  seems  to  me  to  be  very 
careless  in  religious  matters,  and  the  only  church  we 
could  discover  in  this  town  was  a  Roman  Catholic  one. 
We  and  our  two  cars  were  left  here. 


!:!f 


orr.  1876 


HOTEL   AfAXXE/is. 


32r 


we  knew  of  the  quiet  night  at  Cheyenne.     It  is  an  unin 
terestm.  town,  surrounded  bv  mountains        t  h,s  sol" 
good  shops,   and   is  planted  all   over  with     r'h      t^ 
green   poplars;    but    we  found    twenty    our    1 
much  to  spend  in  it.  twent>-four    hours    too 

little'nolilr^f  '''  '^"'"'^^esting  character,  it  has  its  own 
tie  political  excitements,  and  a  torch-light  procession 
o     Democrats  marched   past   our   hotel  this   e veni   " 
while  a  Republican   one  formed  close  bv,  and  se   o      m' 
the  opposite  direction.     It  is  w<>nderful^  ow  the  e  nvl 
processions  are  managed  without  collision 

turns  out' to"h"'"  "''  !"'''  '"'"  "^  ">'  "^  ^'  --^'^  -'"^ 
turns  out  to  be  a  great  hunter ;  he  offers  to  take  D   and 

n-ic  across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  ' 

One  f  ms  into  very  bad  manners  at  these  hotels     The 
d.nner  is  before  one  in  little  dishes,  and  one  dips  a  fork 
•nto  each  d:sh,  and   take,  bits  of  tins  and  of  that  in      e 
same  plate,  and  uses  one's  knife  promiscuously  for  s 
'^..tter  and   the  whole  dinner.     The  cloth  isV  L' 

room  that  is  bewildering.  The  .service  is  excessively 
slow  an  .t  .s  useless  to  try  and  get  anything  from  any 
waiter  but  your  own.  At  Cheyenne  we  had  a  most 
sympathetic  black,  who  said,  with  the  utmost  i^Z; 
hat  he  was  so  .sorry  -  when  we  expressed  an  inability 
t^o^eat  any  more;  wc  almost  over-ate  ourselves  to  oblige 

I  saw  numbers  of  negro  men  and  womenonhor.se. 
''a  k  to-day.  and  there  was  a  white  lady  riding  about  in 
a  pea-green  habit.  *" 


We  heard  of 


mines  n  week  before  with 


a  young  man  who  mrr'.?'  '•? 


ri:    liciri    the 


1,900  lbs.  weight  of  gold,  worth 


n 


322 


M  Y  CA  XA  DIA  .V  JO  URN  A  L. 


CH.  XVI 


about  16^.  an  Dunce.  He  had  an  escort  of  twenty  men, 
to  each  of  whom  he  paid  $200  (;^'4o).  We  were  shown 
a  nugget  weighing  about  145  ounces. 

Tuesday,  jd. — We  were  very  gla-'  to  leave  Denver 
this  morning.  D.  had  a  tallc  with  the  hunter,  who  is 
known  as  Oregon  Bill.  He  gave  us  his  photograph,  in 
which  he  is  depicted  with  an  Indian  scalp  hanging  from 
his  belt. 

We  traveled  through  the  ugliest  country  it  is  pos- 
sible to  conceive  :  a  flat  plain,  without  the  sn^allest  vari- 
ation in  it  the  whole  day.  Our  only  excitement  was 
seeing  a  calf  dragged  along  by  a  las.j,  and  numerous 
prairie-fires  at  night,  illumirating  the  landscape  in  every 
direction. 

Wednesday,  4th. — The  country  still  ugly,  though  when 
we  got  to  the  Missouri  a  few  trees  and  some  castor-oil 
plants  were  to  be  seen.  I  think  we  found  this  almost 
the  longest  day  of  our  tour. 

Thursday,  j///.  ~  Arrived  at  St.  Louis  early,  and 
found  that  it  is  the  day  of  the  year  to  be  here— the 
best  day  of  the  Great  Fair.  The  town  and  hotels  are 
crammed,  and  some  residents  good-naturedly  turned 
out  to  give  us  their  rooms.  We  found  two  mails  await- 
ing u.s,  and  after  reading  them  went  off  to  see  the 
show. 

There  is  a  very  fine,  uncovered  amphitheatre,  where 
we  saw  trotting-horses  and  four-in-hands ;  a  band 
played,  and  the  seats  all  round  the  course  were  filled; 
there  must  have  been  30,000  people  there,  and  crowds 
outside  and  all  throu^,!!  the  grounds.  It  is  a  great  holi- 
day here. 

1),  took  me  a  walk  through  the  town,  which  is  one  of 
the  nicest  I  have  seen  in  the  Slates— solid-looking,  and 
with  very  handsome  residences.  The  hotel  is  very  good 
and  comfortable. 


OCT.  1876 


TOROXTO. 


323 


side  ;  -  ;f  7  ^  ''''  '^-  ^"^"'-^  '^''^^  -d  «^-^  out- 
e  1  d  o  "  "  'r™'"  ^'^  ^"^^  l>rid,.eovcr  which 
uc  had  to  pass.  It  oro.s.ses  the  Mississippi  and  the 
M  ssoun  the  tvvo  having  joined  into  one  muddv  iv 
Ilie  bridge  ,s  built  on  three  piers  and  is  \  1 /r 
wonderful  piece  of  engineering  ^^^^  t),  ""^^ 
way   .s  over  the  bridge,  the  ra.lwav  throu,     7^L 

^'n  a.h     .  but  It  IS,  of  course,  really  very  strong 
Ue   read  pur  newspapers,  and  I  went  for  the  thi-J 
t-e  through  all  my  letters  !     Letters  are  nev      lore 
an^recated  or  spelled  through  than  when  one  Is  trr. 

S.^furJay,  ///.-Soon  after  breakfast  we  crossed  the 
St,  Ua,r  n.  our  train,  on  a  large  boat  built  for  the  p 
pose,   and   being   now   in   Canada   the  .-Grand   To'r 

!>•    and  I    spend    Sunday  at    Toronto-    nn   \t      , 


1 


i 


•• 


'    Vi 


LHAPTER   X7II. 


ll  - 


OUR    FIFTH    WINTER    AND    SUMMER    IN    CANADA. 

FnWay,  tjth  October.— \\\^  "  Grand  Tour  "  being  over, 
I  quite  forgot  I  had  still  to  keep  up  a  journal,  and.  sud- 
denly remembering  it,  I  find  myself  at  the  end  of  a  week 
with  no  notes,  and  the  necessity  of  remembering  how  I 
have  spent  the  time.  We  arrived  at  Toronto  last  Satur- 
day night,  r-id  were  very  hospitably  received  by  the 
Macdonalds  at  Government  House.  I  liked  them  all 
very  mucli. 

On  Sunday  O.  and  I  weni  to  church  in  the  Cathedral, 
and  in  the  afternoon  a  few  |)i()ple  came  to  see  us— Lady 
Macdonald,  old  Mr.  Chapman,  etc.  The  Rowlands, 
Mowats,  Colonel  Cumberland,  and  Mr.  Crooks  dined. 

On  Monday  morning  I  had  to  be  up  at  5.30,  to  catch 
my  train  to  Montreal,  and  I).,  whom  I  left  behind, 
started  at  eleven  en  route  for  Philadelphia.  In  spite  of 
our  recent  long  tour,  Ale.<ander  a.  '  "  wth  thought  this 
the  longest  journey  we  ever  made.  We  got  to  Montreal 
at  9.30,  Mr.  Mackenzie  having  been  with  me  as  far  as 
Prescott.  Russell  met  me  at  the  train,  and  I  found 
Gwen  in  her  own  house,  looking  very  well,  and  all  her 
surroundings  so  pretty  and  comfortai)le.  Gwen  and  I 
spend  quiet  mornings  together.  One  afternoon  we  went 
a  lovely  drive  up  the  mountain.  We  visited  her  chief 
friends,    having    tea   with    Miss   de   Rocheblave*  and 


•a  Freiich.C«imilian  Indy  who  has  very  many  friends  in  LnglanJ. 


NOV.  1876 


TOM    THUMB. 


325 


Mrs^^^Stephens,*   and   driving  with    Miss  Allen   to   the 

We  breakfasted  early  this  morning,  and  1  left  bv  the 
train  tor  (Ottawa. 

FrUay,  2oth.~Uso    days    of   Indian    summer  •    s„rh 

lovely  weather.     We  drove   in   the  afternoons    a'nde 

ma.ned  .n  the  garden  till  five.     The  Counc.l  and  Mn.il 

ers  are  makmg  arrangements  to  give  D.  a  grand  rece,,- 

t.o,.  on  h.s  return  ;  we  expect  hin,  on  Monday  or  'I  ues- 

Tuesday,  ^^///.-Sunday  was  wet  and  gloomy  aeiin 
and  so  was  Monday,  on  winch  day  D.  returnee       V2 
aldermen  went  to  meet  him  at  a  station  thutv  mile    o 
•'.Hi  when  he  arrived  at  Ottawa  there  was  a  plat  onn   a 

ormg    h.m   to    the  Government    House.      The  chiMren 
ere  very  happy  listening  to  the  guns  and  wa  c 
e  four  grays  and  we  all  stood  at  the  door  to  re^eu^ 

the  Governor-General.  '^*-tive 

He  was  so  surprised  at  the  sltrlif  ,.<•  i,-     1    1 

-h.rc^nandLproved.::;i;i:;;L'vi;f;L^^ 

ater  m  the  evenmg  Nelly  dressed  up  in  the  most'  a  tis 
t.c  manner  as  the  "  Queen  of  .Sheba  ' 

nednesday,  Nmrniber  /^/.—The    Count   H«    t 


I 


iii 


Lady  Mount-Stephen.  one  of  my  sUtfr 


my  Mstfr's  best  and  kindest  friends 


326 


A/y  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVII 


!'■  I 


spectators,  who  were  mostly  children.  The  dwarfs  did 
some  little  jtlays,  one  having  a  man  in  the  part  of  a 
"mischievous  monkey"  m  it,  who  once  made  a  da^ii  at 
our  box,  and  was  received  with  shrieks. 

The  Littletons  dined  with  us,  and  the  Count  told  us 
funny  stori<:s  al)out  his  tour.  Tht  breather  i-^  very  bad 
^almost  pitch-dark,  and  wet. 

Sunday,  sth. — We  were  surprised  when  wt  got  to 
church  to  have  the  sermon  first ;  it  was  explained  in  the 
evLuing  that  this  was  a  hint  to  people  who  came  i.tte; 
and  it  was  rallur  unfortunate  that  en  this  day  it  hap- 
pened that  the  Governor-General  was  two  or  three  min- 
utes late,  and  of  course  he  could  not  imagine  what 
had  happened  when  tx:  found  us  in  the  middle  of  the 
sermon. 

Tuesday,  igth  December.  —  The  children  did  their 
Christmas  shopping.  I  think  it  is  the  event  of  the  year 
they  like  Mie  best,  and  they  each  go  with  a  few  shillings, 
and  with  a  list  of  about  sixteen  people,  for  whom  they 
expect  to  buy  handsome  presents. 

Christmas  Day,  /.T-^.— The  children's  voices  are  heard 
very  early,  rejoicing  over  presents  they  have  received 
from  their  nurses. 

'1  he  whole  family,  except  the  absent  .\rchie,  dined  at 
our  lunch,  Haby  and  Victoria  for  the  first  time.  The 
Littletons  came  to  tea,  and  there  was  a  roiuid  table  with 
ten  very  happy  faces  at  it.  Then  came  the  tree,  which 
looked  very  brilliant,  and  gave  universal  satisfaction. 
Kvcry  one  seems  to  have  got  just  what  they  wanted,  and 
the  clamor  of  musical  instruments  resounding  through 
the  house  ever  since  sounds  cheerful,  if  not  pretty. 
When  the  pleasures  of  the  tree  were  exhausted  we  had 
snapdragon,  and  then  a  "  Yorkshire  wassail-bowl,"  in 
which  we  all  drank  Archie's  health  with  cheers. 

Sunday,  j/j/.— Gwen's  baby  was  christened  to-day. 


CH.  XVII 


Jan.  1877 


TORONTO. 


327 


Monday,  Jamiary  /,  iSjy.—X  hard  day.  At  ten  the 
children  rehearsed  their  play;  at  twelve  His  E.x.,  the 
A.  D.  C.'s,  and  J,  having  dressed  ourselves  smart,  sat  for 
tuo  hours  receiving  all  the  men  in  Ottawa. 

Exhausted  by  two,  we  lunched,  and  I  then  packed 
oft  my  famdy  to  bed.  promising  faithfully  to  call  them 
at  iour. 

At  three  a  servants'  children's  party  commenced,  and 
nime  joined  them  for  tea  ;  after  which  thev  acted  a  little 
play  with  great  success, 

Friday, 3th.~\  had  my  annua!  children's  partv  to-day 
Seventy-eight  of  them  came  at  five,  and  mothers  besides 
After  the  play,  whicl,  was  acted  again,  there  was  tea  • 
two  long  tables  down  the  <lining-room,  and  one  outside 
for  the  grown-ups.  The  magic  lantern  came  next,  and 
then  we  cleared  away  the  chairs,  and  the  children  danced 
about,  and  amused  themselves  very  much. 

Saturday,  6th.-\S^  had  a  skating-party,  and  final 
representation  of  the  children's  play,  "  Fifine,  the  Fisher 
Maid,"  which  went  off  extremely  well.  They  like  the 
appreciativeness  of  a  grown-up  audience. 

Victoria  was  very  funny:  she  would  run  on  to  the 
stage  and  exhibit  her  shoes,  bracelets,  etc.,  to  the  spec- 
tators;  at  last  I  had  to  draw  her  back,  as  she  was  tak- 
ing the  interest  uH  from  the  real  performers.  When  the 
curtain  was  drawn  up  again  at  the  end,  she  came  for- 
ward and  made  a  very  nice  little  courtesy,  and  said 
"CJood-night,  everybody." 

There  was  a  scene  in  the  plav  in  which  all  go  down 
to  the  bottom  of  the  .sea.  I  managed  this  by  having 
green  tarlatan,  upon  which  fishes  were  pasted,  drawn  up 
s  owly  in  front  of  the  children  to  a  certain  height  above 
their  heads,  showing  the  depth  of  the  water, 

Toronto:  Wednesday,  10th.— Wq  left  Ottawa  f-.r 'i,.. 
ronto  yesterday,  on  the  most  lovely  Canadian  morning, 


'  If 


tt 


II 


328 


MV  CAXADIAN  JOUKXAL. 


CH.  XVII 


I:  T'  M 


to  Stay  with  the  Macdonalds.  After  lunch  to-day  we 
set  off  for  the  Town-Hall,  and  had  an  address  from  the 
Mayor  and  a  reply  from  His  Ex.  This  was  the  one 
about  which  one  of  the  aldermen  said,  when  discussing 
the  question  of  our  reception,  and  the  expense  of  it,  that 
"  a  nice  little  speech  from  the  Governor-General  would 
cost  nothing." 

People  were  presented  to  us  after  it,  and  then  we 
went  to  tea  at  the  Macphersons".  There  was  a  very 
pleasant  dinner  of  thirty  people  here  in  the  evening. 

Thursday,  iith.—l).  and  I  went  to  the  Mechanics' 
Institute  to  receive  an  address.  A  ball  given  in  the 
evening  was  very  nicely  managed,  and  handsomely  done. 
We  received  the  guests  with  Mr.  and  Miss  Macdonald, 
and  then  walked  through  the  room  to  the  dais  prepared 
for  us.  I  sat  there  most  of  the  evening  talking  to  differ- 
ent people,  and  His  Ex.  danced  everything  till  early  next 
morning. 

Friday,  i2th.—\i\.er  breakfast  D,  and  I  visited  the 
rooms  of  the  Art  Union  Society  of  Toronto,  and  in  the 
afternoon  we  went  to  the  Curling  and  Skating  Rink, 
where  an  address  was  read,  to  which  he  replied  in  very 
happy  terms.  They  presented  him  with  curling  stones 
and  brooms,  and  me  with  a  beautiful  pair  of  skates. 

I  skated  a  little,  and  D.  curled.  He  had  a  dinner  at 
the  National  Club,  and  made  a  very  amusing  speech. 
Alluding  to  his  duties  as  a  constitutional  governor,  he 
likened  himself  to  "the  humble  functionary  we  see 
superintending  the  working  of  some  complicated  mass 
of  chain -driven  machinery.  This  personage  merely 
walks  about  with  a  little  tin  vessel  of  oil  in  his  hand, 
and  he  i)ours  in  a  droji  here  and  a  drop  there,  as  occa- 
sion or  the  creaking  of  a  joint  may  require;  while  his 
utmost  vigilance  is  directed  to  no  higher  aim  than  the 
preservation  of  his  wheels  and  co."?.  frorrs  the  intrusion 


CH.  XVII 

to-day  we 
from  the 
s  the  one 
[iiscussing 
of  it,  that 
:ral  would 

I  then  we 
IS  a  very 
;ning. 
[echanics' 
an  in  the 
lely  done, 
acdonald, 
prepared 
to  differ- 
:arly  next 

sited  the 
id  in  the 
ng  Rink, 
d  in  very 
ig  stones 
ates. 

dinner  at 
J  speech, 
ernor,  he 
we  see 
ted  mass 
i  merely 
Ills  hand, 
as  occa- 
while  his 
than  the 
intrusion 


FEB.  1877 


OTTAIVA. 


329 


of  dust  ^^vvV.,  or  other  foreign  bodies."  The  "Grits" 
be.ng  the  party  now  in  power,  this  joke  on  their  name 
was  much  appreciated. 

^.'^TT'T"  '"■■■'■""=  ''''''  '^  ^«  much  wind 
we  teel  it  more  than  at  Ottawa 

W,n.   ^/.-Hefore  church  we  visited  the  Sundav- 

dra  .    After  >t  we  drove  out  to  see  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G^owski 
m   the.r   pretty  hou.se;    then   lunch   here;  and   after  k 
J  red  and  I  drove  out  with  Mr.  W.  Howla  d  to  the  Gen 
eral   Hosp.tal.     It  is  a  very  Hne  one.  and  we  went  a  1 
over  It,  and  on  to  tea  with  Mrs.  Rowland 

Afo,nhy,   /,-//, _^^•e    fo.^   ladies-Miss    Macdonald 

t  at  th?;-:';'  "^>'-^^'^-^'-^  ^--.  the  gentlentr  e' 
•ng  at  the  Club  dmner  g.ven  to  His  Ex.,  where  he  made 
another  important  speech. 

rw.,,  .^//._such  a   lovely  day  at  last.     In  the 
afternoon  there  was  a  very  pleasant  little  skating-partv 

s  e  Arrah  na  Pogue  at  the  Theatre.  When  the  play 
was  over  we  drove  back,  changed  our  dresses,  and  lent 
off  to  he  rail  way-car,  where  we  meant  to  sleep.  We  re- 
ma.ncd  in  the  station  all  night,  but  there  uL  such  a 
"oise  that  we  could  not  sleen  and  in  h,  , 
started  for  Ottawa.  '  '  '"  '^"'"'"^  ''^ 

r/uosday,  February  m.-h,  the  afternoon  I  attended 

'  rs  eVr  "  ':""'^'  ^^^■'  '°"^^^'  -^y  handsome. 

1  he  Speech  was  a  rather  long  one 

In  the  evening  we  had  a  very  large  Drawing-room  in 
tf^e  Senate  Chamber.  There  must  have  been  Soo  pres- 
entations, and  the  room  got  quite  crammed.  ^ 

somfnr"-'''  ''''—^^''^  »'^^  «"  evening  rehearsal  of 
some  plays  we  are  getting  up,  and  all  the  actors  r.-.,.e  to 
cime  first,    (jr  course  ther.  were  several  things  to  be  im- 


^^v^- 


330 


AfY  CAI^ADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CM.  XVII 


proved  :  the  gas  did  r  »{:  ofo  oMt  >  len  it  should,  etc. ; 
but  by  working  han'  we  got  it  dU  right. 

Friday,  i6t/i.~\.\i-  had  the  dress-rehearsal.  Both 
pieces  were  immciiseiy  successful.  D.  was  delighted; 
the  dresses  capital,  and  in  "  Our  Wife  "  very  prettv. 

The  "  Loan  of  a  Lover  "  came  first,  Mr.  Kimber  and 
his  sister  doing  the  principal  parts,  r.  J  a^i.i^  them  ad- 
mirably. Colonel  Littleton  and  I,  Mr.  Brodie  and  Mr. 
McLean,  did  the  smaller  parts.  The  songs  were  all  well 
sung,  and  we  put  in  a  few  additional  ones.  The  two 
Freds  looked  very  magnificent  in  "Our  Wife."  Fred 
Ward  acted  extremely  well ;  his  part  is  most  amusing, 
and  si;itrd  him  exactly.  Mr.  Kimber  was  at  his  very 
best ;  indeed,  we  had  a  very  strong  cast  for  the  whole 
play. 

Saturday,  iyi/i.~A  rehearsal  of  "The  Scrap  of 
Paper  "  after  lunch,  and  then  a  skating-party.  There 
was  no  snow  on  the  top  of  the  slide,  and  consequently 
no  tobogganing ;  and  it  was  too  cold  for  much  skating, 
so  we  began  to  di;nce  early. 

Wednesday,  2Jst.~~T\\e  day  of  our  theatricals.  The 
weather  is  beautifull,  almost  too  warm.  Great  misfort- 
unes happened  to-day.  Miss  Lea,*  who  is  staying  with 
us  to  do  a  picture  of  me,  took  h  irtshorn  by  mistake,  and 
nearly  choked  herself.  Then  D.  got  a  bad  headache; 
and  at  seven  we  had  no  r^as  at  all!  I  was  in  despair. 
The  order  was  given  to  i  ollect  all  the  candles  and  lamps 
in  the  house,  and  our  cook,  who  was  preparing  a  supper 
for  400.  was  left  in  sudde';  u,.;kness.  His  wife  was  iiri- 
ous,  and  of  course  a  couple  of  lamps  had  to  be  returned 
to  him.  You  may  imagine  my  feelings:  al)  ''  c  pas.sages 
and  dressing-rooms  in  a  miserable  light;  lor  by  vxght 
o'clock  only  a  glimmer  of  gas  had  arpfi      The  stage 


Mr 


mna  i.ca  yiz>. 


MARCH  1877 


THE  A  TRICALS. 


331 


was  lighted  up  with  candles,  which  dripped  over  us.  and 
had  to  be  replaced  between  each  scene.  It  was  so  de- 
pressing. 

People  declared  they  were  deUghted  ;   and  certainly 
they  did  not  mind  the  want  of  gas  half  as  much  as  I  did 
At  the  end  I  felt  much  more  tired  than   usual,  owing  to 
the  worry. 

Wednesday,  March  yth.—l  have  forgotten  to  say  that 
on  Friday,  the  2d,  there  was  a  great  curling-match  be- 
tween our  Club  and  J3elleville  for  a  medal ;  it  was  very 
exciting,  the  V.  C.  R.  being  behindhand  at  first ;  but  we 
finally  won  by  two  points.  We  have  tu  play  once  more 
before  we  can  keep  the  medal 

Satunuy,  /(V/;.— .Such  a  magnificent  day.  The  trees 
sparkle  like  diamonds,  and  every  twig  and  branch  is  en- 
tirely cased  in  ice.  Against  a  bright  blue  sky  they  are 
too  lovely.  A  large  Parliamentary  dinner  in  the  even- 
ing. 

Wed>>,^day,  14th.— D.   went   into   town,  and  after  he 
got  out  o.  the  sleigh  he  slipped  upon  the  icy  pavement,  and 
fel   veryhe:    :ly  on  a  step.     Some  men    picked  him  up 
and  put  h. a  .,.  his  feet;  but  he  could   not  stand,  and' 
fel   agai,,,      1  hey       en  carried    him   into  a  shop,  where 
he  lay  on  the  floor  .   r  quite  twenty   minutes  before  he 
could   recover  his   breath   at   all.     Two   doctors  came 
and    bandaged    him    up    tight.       They    said    no     bones 
were  broken ;    but    he   was   very   severely   bruised   and 
shaken,  and  m  the  evening  suffered      reat  pain   if  he 
moved. 

Ofcour.se  he  had  to  go  to  bed,  and  he  mi.ssed  the 
"Scrap  of  Paper";  it  went  off  very  well,  and  people 
were  delighted  with  it.  They  were  so  interested  in  the 
story,  and  they  thought  every  one  very  good  in  their 
parts.  There  were  no  hitches  at  a!! ;  the  only  drawback 
was  D  's  absence. 


332 


MV  CAXADIAX  JOUKXAL. 


CH.  XVII 


n  I  * 


i-r-Ml 


Friday,  i6i/i.—l).  very  poorly  all  day,  and  quite  un- 
able to  move.  Colonel  *  and  Mrs.  Hewitt  came  for  the 
large  military  dinner  which  we  gave.  There  were  fifty- 
four  at  dinner,  and  the  i  oom  looked  very  well.  D.  so 
disappointed  to  miss  it. 

H'cJueuiay,  2  J  si. — About  ii  p.m.  Mr.  Brodie  drove  up 
to  say  that  he,  (leneral  Smyth,  his  son,  etc.,  had  been 
burned  out,  and  had  lost  everything— two  theatrical  suits 
for  Saturday  into  the  bargain  ! 

Saiuniay,  2./i/i.—\\'e  had  the  last  performance  of  the 
"Scrap  of  Taper."  D.  was  able  to  be  at  it,  and  in  the 
house  we  had  the  Stephensons  and  Hewitts.  There  was 
a  very  large  audience,  and  the  piece  was  a  great  success. 
Between  the  acts  we  had  some  very  good  singing  and 
playing. 

Monday,  Aprii  joi/i.—l^.  and  I  were  the  recipients  of 
a  great  honor  to-day.  'I'he  cabmen  of  Ottawa,  having 
benefited  by  the  gayeties  at  Government  House  this 
winter,  got  up  a  testimonial  and  an  r.ddress  for  us,  which 
they  presented  themselves. 

They  came  at  two  o'clock— fourteen  very  respectable- 
looking  men.  They  read  an  illuminated  address,  and 
then  presented  D.  with  a  handsome  stick  with  a  gold  top 
and  inscription,  and  me  with  a  silver  card-case,  on  which 
is  inscribed  :  "  Presented  to  Her  Excellency  the  Countess 
of  Dufferin  by  the  Hackmen  of  the  City  of  Ottawa,  as  a 
token  of  esteem.     April,  1877." 

When  the  presentation  was  over,  D.  showed  them  the 
house— our  sitting-rooms,  etc.— and  gave  them  dinner 
in  the  ball-room.  Directly  the  wine  was  poured  out  they 
all  stood  up  and  drank  the  Queen's  health. 

Saturday,  May  i2i/i.—\\e  left  home,  D.  on  his  way  to 


*  Colonel  Hewitt,  R.  E.,  at  this  time  was  Commandant  of  the  Mill- 
tary  College  at  Kingston,  Ontario. 


t  of  the  Mill- 


MAV1877  DISTIXGUISHED    VISITORS. 

Philadelphia,  and  I  to  pay  a  visit  (with  Fred)  to  Gwen 
a     Mont^aL     ^^'e  had  Mr.   Reynolds's  car,  id  .^^ 
w.th   D   at   Prescott.     We  had  four  hours   to  wa  t    but 

Saturday,  yp//.._After  a   very   delightful   week  with 
-ven,  Fred  and   I  returned  to  Ottawt  to-da^and  th 
baby  can.e  down  to  see  us  of,  as  .erry  and  .'niable  a^ 

Monday,  2ist.~ln   the  evening  Fred    the   T  ifM.f 

and  I  walked  to  the  Reynoldses'  nn.i      .  ^''"'^*°"-^' 

of  ♦!,   •    1  ^cynoiases  ,  and  sat  out  on  the  stens 

at  thc.r  house,  watch.ng  the  procession  on  the  wat  r  in 
honor  of  the  new  Pope  (Leo  XIII).  There  were  a 
q-nt.ty  of  canoes  with  torches,  wh.ch  were  v    y  ;      tv 

nLed       1    r"",'"'"'^   '^""^^^  '"   ^--  --""-- 

d    the     fne""       'T  '"'''"'   "^  ^"J">-^   ^'^   -^Ik 

house)  "'"   ''""^    """^'^^''^'^   (^'^^    Reynoldses- 

Tuesday,  22d.-D.  arrived  from  New    York  at    i  ,0 
and  we  spent  the  afternoon  out  of  doors 

Mon'dir"'  ■^"'   "'""'"    """''  *   ""'  '"    '"'^   ^'^ 
r//«/-.</^,v,  ////.-Before  lunch  an  assembly  of  eccle- 
s.ast.cs  arrived:  "His   Excellency  the   Apostolic  Dele, 
gate  to  Canada,"  the  Bishops  of  Ottawa,  Newfoundla  d 
and  Prmce  Edward  Island,  with  all  their  acolytes 

The  first-named  is  Bishop  Conroy,  of  Ardagh,  and  is 

Itr?  ^  ^'  '"'^  ^"  ''''"'''  ^-^"^^^'-^  -^"-  '"  tlis 
a  quantity  of  „.st.tut.ons,  he  came  with  all  the  others  to 
d.n    here,  and  he  and  his  chaplain  remained  the  night 

\Ve  d.ned  in  the  ball-room,  and  were  aI>out  fifty-five 
peo^ple-Mm^,^^^   Supreme  Court  Judge'  etc 

*  The  present  Ambassador  at  Mndrid,  Sir  FranciTru^T^^i^.  ^ 


II 


I   / 1*1 


I  i 


334 


MY  CA  XA  D/A  X  JO  URN  A  L. 


CH.  XVII 


The  Delegate  has  been  feted  and  worked  so  much  in 
Canada,  that  he  seems  to  be  longing  for  privacy  and  rest. 
FriddY,  Sth. — The  Bishop  was  off  at  7.30  to  have 
Mass  in  town ;  he  returns  to  lunch,  goes  back  to  hold  a 
Icvde,  and  then  dines  here. 

Tuesday,  gth. — All  the  last  week  we  have  had  most 
delightful  weather,  and  not  a  mosquito  to  destroy  our 
pleasure. 

We  left  Ottawa  to-day  and  had  to  be  up  early,  and 
to  breakfast  soon  after  seven  Tlie  children  were  all 
dressed  in  time  to  see  us  off  Our  traveling-party  con- 
sists of  Nellie,  Fred,  ourselves;  Mr.  Johnston,  who 
comes  as  far  as  Montreal ;  and  Colonel  Stuart,  whom  we 
take  with  us  in  the  Druid  for  a  few  days.  We  leached 
Prescott  at  ten,  and  then  got  on  board  the  river-boat 
and  spent  a  very  pleasant  day,  the  weather  being  de- 
ligiitful. 

The  Druid ds  nice  and  comfortable  as  usual.  Nellie 
sleeps  in  tiie  cabin  next  to  us,  antl  originally  intended 
for  my  maid.  Fred  and  Colonel  Stuart  have  the  two 
cabins  in  the  forejiart  of  the  vessel. 

Wednesday,  2ot/i.—\Wc  g(,t  to  ()uel)ec  directly  after 
lunch,  and  as  soon  as  I),  had  dismissed  the  guard  of 
honor  we  went  to  the  Citadel,  and  returned  to  dine  on 
board  the  Druid.  Dinner  being  over,  we  again  started 
on  our  journey. 

Gasp^ :  Saturday,  2jd.—k  fine  but  cold  a, id  windy 
day.  1),  and  Fred  went  off  for  a  little  fishing,  and 
brought  back  two  salmon  and  three  trout.  D.  was  the 
lucky  one.  The  men  say  we  are  a  week  late  (always 
the  case  with  salmon-fishing!  ) ;  so  we  shall  have  to  go 
up  and  live  in  the  bush,  instead  of  in  our  comfortable 
ship. 

Monday,  ^j///.— Mr.  Reynolds,  Mr.  Middleton,  and 
the  Molsons  earne  to  sec  mc  in  the  afternoon,  and  altcf 


Junk  1877 


FISHIXG. 


335 


dinner  D.  and  I  went  over  tu  their  yacht.  They  expect 
to  sail  in  the  morning,  and  are  leaving  the  fishing  j,,  ,Iis- 
gust  Mr.  Reynolds  has  only  caught  five  fish,  and  Mr. 
Middleton  nine. 

'I'he  only  lucky  person  has  been  Colonel  McNeill  • 
he  got  thirty-three  salmon  in  the  York,  and  last  night 
there  came  a  letter  from  him  to  sav  that  he  had  just 
reached  the  Metaped.ac,  and  in  one  evening's  fishing 
caught  four  salmon,  averaging  2()\  lbs.  in  weight. 

Tuesday,  26/A.~D.  anu  Fred  have  gone  up  to  the 
house,  so  we  shall  not  see  them  till  we  get  to  them  to- 
morrow. Colonel  Stuart  is  fishing  down  here,  and  will 
dine  on  board. 

U'rJm-sdaw  -'-''/'.—All  the  morning  preparations  for 
our  departure  were  being  made,  and  at  two  o'clock  we 
got  oil.  We  drove  in  a  buggy  for  two  hours,  and  then 
K:(.t  on  to  horses.  We  only  go  at  a  foofs  pace,  but 
Nellie  enjoyed  it 

We  arrived  at  five  o'clock  at  the  camp  and  found  the 
river  very  low,  but  the  water  beautifully  clear.  We  had 
a  good  account  of  the  fishing.  Tuesdav  afternoon  D 
ca-ight  SIX  salmon  and  I-rcd  four,  and  yesterday  1> 
caughr  four  and  Fred  six  ;  besides,  thev  have  several 
trout.  .  elhe  and  I  welcomed  them  home  about  eight 
o  clock,  and  saw  the  fish  displaved  on  the  rocks;  then 
we  dined,  and  sat  at  the  camp-fire  till  bedtime  Nellie 
amused  herself  making  •«  smudges."  and  filling  saucers 
with  moss  and  violets. 

The  flif-s  arc  not  so  bad  as  usu.il  this  year. 

Satun/,fy,so(;,.-U.\  morning's  fishing  produced  three 

salmon,  and   Fred    came    home  with    two.  and   thirteen 

beautiful  trout.     After  lunch  we  again  went  out  in  the 

'-anoe.     At  one  moment  f  was  to  be  seen  standing  on  a 


small  rock  In  tb. 

and  D,  on  a  chair,  which 


middle  of  the  fiver,  Nellie  upon  another, 
we  had  brought  with  us  and 


'    ii 


336 


MY  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVII 


planted  in  the  stream.  We  were  all  lashing  the  water, 
but  were  most  unfortunate,  and  only  brought  home  one 
trout  between  us. 

Tuesday,  jd  Ju/y.—l  went  out  with  D.,  and  while  fish- 
ing for  trout  had  quite  an  adventure  with  one.  I  hooked 
him  at  the  same  tmie  that  I),  had  on  a  salmon.  I  w;is 
standing  on  a  small  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and 
had  neither  landing-net  nor  salmon-killer  with  me,  as 
D.'s  man  was  to  bring  the  net  to  me  when  I  wanted  it. 
The  salmon,  however,  wished  to  go  down  the  rapid,  so 
I).,  his  men,  and  his  canoe,  had  to  pass  under  my  rod. 
and  between  me  and  my  trout.  When  I  had  tired  the 
fish  out,  the  difficulty  was  to  capture  him;  but  I  man- 
aged to  get  him  on  my  rock,  and  to  unhook  him  ;  and  I 
had  another  on  before  I),  came  back. 

He  had  arranged  to  go  far  up  the  river  and  sleep,  so 
he  started  off  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  after  lunch  Nellie 
and  I  went  out  with  Fred,  As  the  salmon  would  not 
rise,  we  both  fished  for  trout,  and  had  great  fun.  To 
our  surprise,  on  returning  horue  we  found  D.  ;  no  fish 
had  arrived  so  far  uji  the  river,  so  of  course  lie  did  not 
stay,  and  we  arranged  to  go  "  out  "  to-morrow. 

llW//fsd(iy,  4tli. — All  busy  packing.  D.  stayed  at 
home,  and  I  went  out  for  an  hour,  and  caught  ten  trout 
—one  T^\  lbs.,  and  the  others  smaller.  I  fish  with  a 
beautiful  little  bamboo  rod  which  with  the  reel  only 
weighs  si.\  ounces. 

It  was  a  lovely  day ;  I  was  quite  sorry  to  leave  our 
camp,  as  I  enjoyed  it  very  much  this  year,  and  we  were 
less  troubled  with  flies  than  usual,  Wp  had  the  Captain 
to  dine  with  us,  and  started  immediately  after  dinner. 

Thursday,  ^th.—k  beautiful  day,  and  a  lovely  sunset 
and  double  rainbow.  "  A  rainbow  at  night  is  a  sailor's 
delight,"  so  we  hope  it  will  be  very  fine  to-morrow,  when 
we  ought  to  reach  Tadousac. 


I 


CH.  XVII 


JUNE  1877 


7  A  DO  USA  a 


337 


Friday,  ^///.-Arrived  about  eight  in  the  morn'nLr-  a 
most  beautiful  day,  the  chiltlreii  all  well,  and  enjoying 
the  seaside  very  mucli.  We  sat  out  on  the  balconv,  and 
walked  on  the  rocks. 

Siou/ay,  /j///._We  have  spent  a  very  pleasant  ten 
days.  The  weather  has  been  lovely,  and  we  have  sat 
out  the  most  of  the  day.  We  were  able  K,  bathe  oc- 
casionally, although  the  water  is  always  very  cold  here 
— quite  icy. 

D.  drew  a  good  deal,  and  had  finished  some  very  nice 
sketche.s,  which  yesterday  met  with  a  sad  mishap      We 
went  on  a  fishing  expedition   np  the   Saguenav,  taking 
he  (Mllespies  with  us  in  the  Druid.     We  breakfasted  on 
board,  and  then   ha<l   a   very  pleasant    voyage   of  two 
hours  to   the   fishing-grounds.     When    we  got   back    I) 
found  he  had  left  all  his  sketching  things  and   finished 
drawings  below  high-water  mark  at  the  fishing-place     He 
sent  a  man  in  a  canoe  to  look  for  them,  who  found  them 
soaked  and  spoiled.  ' 

_  We  are  now  returning  to  Ottawa  to  prepare  for  a  tour 
in  Manitoba,  to  which  we  are  all  looking  forward  with 
great  pleasure. 


ill 


\i  11 


I 


CHAPTER  XVI 1 1. 


THE    NOKTHWKST, 

Monday,  July  joth.—Wtt  left  Ottawa  this  morning  in 
good  spirits  and  in  smartish  clothes,  which  we  put  on 
for  the  guard  of  honor  and  the  friends  who  come  to  see 
us  start.  Once  really  off,  we  arrayed  ourselves  in  cooler 
and  more  suitable  traveling  garments. 

The  day  was  not  so  hot  as  we  expected,  and  when  bed- 
time came  we  all  acknowledged  that  the  time  had  flown. 
The  maids,  who  are   traveling  more  luxuriously  than 
any  ladies  on  board,  grumble  at  having  to  sleep  in  the 
ordinary  Pullman.     Nellie  and  I  have  a  cabm  together. 

Tuesday,  j/j/.— The  train  behaved  in  an  extraordinary 
manner  during  the  night.  It  rushed  along  at  a  furious 
pace  for  a  couple  of  miles,  pulled  up  with  a  frightful 
bump,  stopped  to  shriek,  went  on  again  after  three  or 
four  jerks,  and  in  this  way  kept  us  thoroughly  awake 
for  what  appeared  the  whole  night,  but  was,  I  suppose, 
less  than  half  of  it.  I  felt  a  little  the  wor.se  for  the 
night's  shaking,  but  a  good  breakfast  in  our  own  car 
and  an  hour  spent  outside  of  it  in  the  fresh  morning  air 
quite  revived  me. 

We  had  such  a  dusty  day:  five  minutes  sufficed  to 
cover  tables,  sofas,  our  faces,  hands  and  hair  with  the 
dirtiest  powder;  and  it  was  (|uite  useless  to  wash,  for 
we  became  as  bad  as  ever  immediately  after.  We  were 
gn  glad  wh?n  %-e  arrived  at  Lake  Michigan,  and  fell  the 


AUG. 1877 


Sr.  PAUL, 


339 


the  dust  of  the  ra.Iway.     We  had  an   hour  at  the  hotel 
and  .turned  to  our   Puil.an  n.ch  the  better  folTur 

Wednesday    August   ^sf.-W^  had   rather  a   pleasant 

^v.  cros^d  a  ve::-;:: -;:i -^^ 

of  the  Mississippi,  on  which  the  town  is  built  ^ 

nnH^/  T  ''""""  ^  '^"'^"  gentlemen  came  on  board 
and  too  us  to  the  hotel  in  carnages;  and  we  enjoyed 
a  night     on  shore     very  much  indeed 

r^«r.^.z>-   ^,^.„we  breakfasted  at  8.30,  and  almost 
d.rectly  after  held  a  little  reception.     A  g  eat  numbe 
of  gentlemen  were  presented  to  u,  and  t£n     ne^d 
a  speech,   to  which    I),   replied.      They  told   me  after! 
wards  they  were  .'more  than  delighted  "  with  his  «<  re- 

Tim  affair  was  scarcely  over  when  I  was  hurried  off 

I)^  and       (.eneral  Johnston,  and   Mr.  Rice  went.     They 

had  been  for  many  years  in  Congres,.  and  was  a  person 
to^whom  every  one  appealed   for  every  sort   of 'infor" 

The  second  carriage  contained  General  Terry  and 
the  Littletons.  General  Terry  .s  the  officer  who  was  in 
command  when  General  Custer  attacked  the   Indi  , 

N:;.iruieii^^^..'^^''v---'-«^'^>'-^^'.^^i;^ 


an.i!  mnrc  -rentleme 


^^ -•  ""^=  ""Mc  •;eiuiemcn. 
Wc  drove  to  Minneapolis,  through  a  flat 


aj 


country, 


il'.:i 


, 


1 


340 


A/V  CAXADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  xvin 


sometimes  bush,  sometimes  prairie,  and  sometimes 
beautiful  cornfields.  Minneapolis  is  younger  than  St. 
Paul,  the  latter  being  about  thirty  years  of  age  ;  it  is, 
I  think,  more  llourishing-looking,  and  the  residencies  in 
the  town,  each  surrounded  with  lawns  and  flower-gar- 
dens, look  charming  and  comfortable.  The  hotel  where 
we  lunched  is  a  very  fine  one. 

We  soon  set  off  again,  and  went  to  see  the  St.  An- 
thony Falls.  They  consist  of  a  series  of  rapids  and  an 
artificial  "slide";  the  water  was  wearing  away  the 
rock,  and  the  hand  of  man  has  intervened  to  keep  it 
in  check,  and  to  prevent  the  lumber  interests  being 
injured  by  Nature.  Then  we  went  over  a  flf)urmill, 
the  flour  here  being  a  great  spi'cialitt'.  This  mill  turns 
out  a  thousand  barrels  a  day,  some  of  a  peculiar,  very 
white  quality,  which  makes  the  most  delicious  bread; 
it  contains  the  most  nutritious  parts  of  the  wheat,  and 
is  made  by  a  newly-invented  process;  but  I  will  not 
attempt  to  describe  this,  any  more  than  I  have  the 
engineering  works  on  the  river. 

Into  our  carriages  again,  and  off  to  sec  the  Minne- 
haha Falls.  "  From  the  waterfall,  he  called  her  '  Minne- 
haha •— '  Laughing  Water.'  "  The  season  has  been  very 
dry,  and  there  was  very  little  water  coming  over  the 
Fall ;  but  I  am  very  glad  to  have  seen  it,  as  Longfel- 
low's poem  is  one  of  my  earliest  recollections.  When 
we  refurnctl  to  our  carriages  we  changed  company  a 
little.  (leneral  Terry  came  with  us,  and  we  went  with 
him  to  the  Fort 

It  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  very  high  cliff  at  the 
junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Minnesota.  As  we 
drove  into  th(^  court  formed  by  the  barracks,  we  were 
saluteti  by  soldiers,  and  found  the  troops  and  the  band 
arranged  (what  an  unmilita'-y  expression!)  on  the  grass, 
looking  Mj  >{ay   with  their  uniforms  and  colors..  The 


CH.  XVIII 


AUG.  1877 


THE  FORT. 


34  r 


band  played,  and  we  walked  about,  and  then  the  officer 

duced  to  h.s  sister  and  to  another  lady,  and  through 

torti  ication,  looking  over  the   rivers.     It   was  cover..H 
overhead,   and   there  was  a  balustrade  rou  d  i      ,     . 
me.ited  with  flags.     Such  a  pretty  place!     We     n  ""d 

r::;^:";." '''  "^'' '''''-'-'  -'>  ^-^  ^-^-n;  the 

VVhen  we  left  we  crossed  the  Mississippi  in  a  sort  of 

wirl t'tr''^'  "^-^  "^''^  ^"  ^"   ^-^'-d^  -      o  - 
wards  by  the  current  of  the  river   itself  •  the  flu  lu.n. 

-  pulled   in  a   slanting   direction,  so  IL     le  t 

We  reached  St.  Paul  about  eight  o'clock,  said  good- 

t'MVRU'd''"^  ^"'— --^d  were' introdTed 
Ih     tt      \    7^    ''''  ^''°  ^PP^^^^^  ^"  be  very  nice 
seeing  here.     Neihe  came  home  in  tremendous  snints 
In  her  carnage  there  was  a  doctor,  who  had  laid  hi'ns    f 

an      M 'rr   '""•  '^"^  "'^«-  ^'-  ^"i"ks  verT'.  wittv'' 
and  delightful.     At  the  Fort  she  was  much  interes"    '.t 

acb    ,^.  ."-^'"'^''  f'^'^^   he  at  any  rate  was  all  rieht   she 
asked  h.m  to  show  her  the  gent;,  man  with  the  w  o^en 
leg-     He  replied  that  he  was  the  one.  and  in  her  c  nfa 
s.onse  could  only  ...ink  of  asking  .im  if  it  hurt      ," 

nempt  was  made  to  induce  I),  to  speak  to  the  crowd- 
but  he  declined.     Every  one  has  been  so  kind  and  avii 


Frit}. 


here ;  we  have  enjoyed  our  d 
—We  left  the  hotel 


and  once  more  got  into 


ay  very  much, 
early  in  the 


I  "fir, 


morn 
ur  train.     We  journeyed  on  all 


If! 


I 


MY  CANADIAN'  JO URA' A L. 


CH.  XVIII 


|!  li  .  I 


(    \ 


ti  I 


day,  throtish  swamps,  lakes,  and  prairie-lands.  In  the 
evening  we  went  thrcnigh  some  burning  woods.  They 
must  have  been  on  fire  in  about  a  hundred  places,  but 
the  flames  had  not  yet  joined  together  into  one  devastat- 
ing sheet. 

Saturday,  4th. — I  was  awoke  by  the  most  disagree- 
able bumping  and  jolting,  and  soon  discovered  that  we 
were  off  the  line.  It  took  us  two  hours  and  many  shak- 
ings before  we  got  on  again.  We  were  now  traveling 
through  the  flattest  of  flat  prairies,  very  ugly  and  very 
green.  About  ten  o'clock  by  the  new  time — for  our 
watches  are  called  upon  to  change  their  opinions  as  to 
the  hour  at  every  place  we  get  to — we  found  ourselves 
at  Fisher's  Landing,  and  the  steamer  ready  to  take  us 
up  the  Red  River. 

We  have  to  leave  our  house-upon-wheels,  and  to  em- 
bark upon  the  boat,  which  friendly  hands  have  decorated 
with  flags,  wreaths  of  leaves,  and  flowers.  She — the 
steamer — is  a  stern-wheeler,  such  as  we  had  on  the 
Fraser  River ;  she  draws  very  little  water,  and  certainly 
has  an  extraordinary  passage  to  perform.  The  river, 
which  to  all  intents  and  purjioses  is  the  Red  River  (ihe 
first  few  miles  it  is  called  the  Red  Lake  River),  is  very 
muddy,  very  narrow,  and  extremely  sinuous.  I  can 
scarcely  convey  to  you  an  idea  of  the  extraordinary 
manner  in  which  it  twists  and  turns  itself  about :  think 
of  a  braiding-pattern,  or  of  a  zigzag  path  up  a  very 
steep  hill ;  or  imagine  sailing  through  hundreds  of  small 
ponds  all  joined  together,  the  second  being  concealed 
by  the  curve  of  the  first,  and  you  may  form  an  idea 
of  it. 

I  can  only  tell  you  that  we  go  from  one  bank  to  the 
other,  crushing  ami  crashing  against  the  trees,  which 
grow  down  to  the  water-side;  the  branches  sweep  over 
the  deck,  and  fly  in  our  faces,  and  leave  pieces  behind 


CH.  XVIII 


ids.     In  the 

)ocis.     They 

places,  but 

ne  devastat- 

st  disagree- 
red  that  we 
many  shak- 
•  w  traveling 
ly  and  very 
le — for  our 
nions  as  to 
id  ourselves 
to  take  us 

and  to  em- 

e  decorated 

She — the 

lad  on   the 

id  certainly 

The  river, 
I  River  (ihe 
•er),  is  very 
us.  I  can 
traordinary 
)0ut :  think 

up  a  very 
ids  of  small 
f  concealed 
rm  an  idea 

hank  to  the 
rees,  which 
sweep  over 
eces  behind 


II    ''^ 


I; 

'r'l. 


AUG.  1877 


THE  RED  RIVER. 


343 


them.     I  had  just  written  this  whe.i  I  gave  a  shriek  as  I 
saw  my  ,nk-bottle  on  the  point  of  being  swept  overboard 
by  an  mtrusive  tree;  and  D.'s  hat  was  knocked  off  his 
head  by  it.     The  consequence  of  this  curious  navigation 
«s  that  we  never  really  go  on  for  more  than  three  mni- 
utes  at  a  time :  we  run  against  one  bank,  our  steam 
shut  off,  and  in  some  mysterious  manner  we  swing  rou 
till  our  bow  is  into  the  other;  then  we  rebound,  and  go 
on  a  few  yards,  till  the  sharp  curve  brings  us  up  against 
the  side.     Our  stern  wheel  is  very  often  ashore,  and  our 
captam  and  pilot  must  require  the  patience  of  saints      I 
old  you  when  the  last  branch  came  on  board  •  well   I 
have  been  writing  as  fast  as  possible  since,  and  now  ^e 

t'hL'w  "r  ""/'''  '''"  "^'^  •  ^"  >'°"  "^^y  --'ly  believe 
that  we  travel  seventeen  miles  for  two  that  we  make 

and  were  it  not  a  lovely  day,  and  had  we  not  a  delicious 
come.  '  ^^^  ""'  ^""^""^"  '"'^h^  ""^  b^- 

We  were  told  at  St.  Paul  that  we  should  be  eaten 
w:th  mosquitoes;  that  no  oil,  no  veils,  no  gloves  0 
leggings  would  keep  out  the  devouring  monsters  •  fan  v 

are  able  to  sit  gloveless  on  deck  and  write 

We  breakfasted  early,  and  were  hungry  for  a  one- 
o  c  oek  lunch,  which  was  more  elegant  than'substanti" 

most'::LT     lf"f'  '''''''""^  ^"^  '—am  t 
most  attractive  dish  to  be  procured.     I  hope  dinner  will 
be  more  suited  to  our  appetites 

Rivl-  itTf'7''/"'  '-'   "^^^   '^   ^'-   "R^d  Lake 
is  on  V  t'wl.      T        ''  '''  '''''''  ^^°"^^h  ^he  distance 

he  Red  River  itself,  we  found  the  stream  wide  enough 
for  us  to  go  straight  down  it,  less  sinuous,  but  quite  as 

muddy    and    uninterestinrr       Trp-    i 

,  '-'to        « recs    cuiiic  down   to   Ih* 

waters  edge,  and  one  can  see  nothing  beyond  themj 


li 


)■    m 


rn.- 


CM.  XVII   ^     ' 

1 

3  mUch^in   ,  , 
:y  and  rest. 
;o  to    have     . 
,t9;  ij'o.ld  a  *       . 

>'^  ;   ■,  ,  ,  .V  ■_  . 

had  most  ■  :  '. 
iesti-oy  our'^ 


eafiy,  and 
ni  were-  ^11 
jarty  Qpn- 
ston,  •  who 
,  whoni  we 
^e  reached**; 
river-boat 
being  d^- 


i 


w< 


ertie 
'  intended; 
J  the  n?o 


/-:i 


nd  windy  ♦, 
^ing,  ami 
.  w^s  Hi  6^ 
e  (adwrays 
avp  to  go 
niortahle 

itbn,  and    ^ 
md  aftlf 


■   ^ 


jiwV 


iuNE  1877 


«v 


FISHING. 


"335 


dinner^,  and  I  went  over  to  their  yacht.    They  expect 
to  sail  in  the  iporning,  and  are  leavihg  the  fishing  in  dis- 

-  w'i;,  ^'■•'^^y^o'^'s  has  only  caughlfive  fish,  and  Mr 
Middleton  nine.  • 

The  oniy  lucky  person  has  been  Colonel  McNeill- 
he  got  thif^y-threfe  salmon  in  the  York,  a«d  last  night 
,  there  came  ^vietter  from  him  to  say  that  he  had  just 
Reached  the  Metapedi^c,  and  in  one- evening's  fishing 
cauglit  four  salmon,  averaging  29J  fbs.  in  weight 
■  Tuesday,  26th.^\^.^,r,d.\\t.A  have  go^e  up  .0  the 
house,  so  we  shalj^  not  see  them-  till  w,^  ^et  "to  them  to- 
morrow. Colonel  Stuart  is  fishing  down  here,  and  will 
dme  on  board. 

,/r^;/;^.^,^v,  ^7M:-A11  the  morning  preparations  for 
our  departure  were  being  made,  a*id  at  two  o'clock  we 
got  otf.  .  W«  drove  in  a  buggy  fc/r  two  hours,  and  then 
got  on  to  horses.  We  only  g(/,.at  a  foot's  pace,  but 
Nellie  en  jo  j"^  it,-  \-  " 

We  arrived  arfive  o'clock  at  the  camp  and  found  the 
river  very  low,  .but  the  water  beautifully  dear!.'  We  had 
a  good  account  of  the   fishiijg.-    Tuesday  afterncx.n  D 
caught  SIX  §#mon  and    Fred    four,    and   yesterday    I)   ' 
caught  four  and  Fred   six;,  besides,  they  have  several 
trout.     Nellie  and   I  welcomed  them  h^me  about  eight 
.0  clock,  and  saw  the  fish  displayeH  on  the  rocks;  then 
we  dmed,  and  .sat  at  the  camp-fire  till  bedtime.     Nellie 
amused  herself  making  "  smudges,"  and  filling  saucers 
with  moss  and  violets, 

Thp  flifi&are  not  so  bad  as  usu^I  (ihis  year. 

.W^o^,  joM.-p.'s  morningi^ftshing  produced  thre«: ' 
salmoWr  _^nd  Fre^   came   home  with   two,  and  thirte«w'-    ' 
beautiful  tfout.,*  After  lunch  We  again  went  out  in  ths 


tjanoe.  '  At  00^  mometit  I  was  to  be  seen  standi 


t)g  on  a 


».H^i   rock  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  Nellie  upon  another, 
and  D.  op  a  chair,  whjch^  we  had  brt,ught  -with^u.  and 


f    '' 


,'.' 


m 


-^> }, 


■"':'""  '■"' '  \i\\i 


fcg,.£&T.^X-^-^.4.,^3^    ^.  ^ 


^^S^^  ..-t~S5l' 


;  e 


B 


^ 


336 


MY  CANADIAA;  JOUHXAf  qH.xviY 


planted  i;i  the  sf ream.  We  were  all  lashing  the  waterj 
but  were  most  unfortunate,  and  only  brought  home  one 
trout  between  us. 

Tuesday,  jd  ////y.— I  went  out  with  D.,  and  while  fish- 
^  ing  for  trout  had  quite  an  adventure  with  one.  I  hooked 
him.  at  the  same^  time  that  D.  had  on  a  salmon.  1,  was 
standing  on  a  small  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  rii'er,  apd 
had  neither  landing-net  nor  salmon-killer  with  me,  as 
D.'s  nian.  was  to  bring  the  net  tome  when  I  wanted  it. 
The  salmon,  ho\Vever,  wished  to  go  down  the  rapid,  so 
D.,  his  men,  and  his  canoe,  had  to  pass  under  my  rod. 
and  between  me  and  my  trout.  When  I  had  tired  fhe 
fish  gut,  the  difficulty  was  to  capture  him;  but  I  man. 
aged  to  get  him  on  my  rOck,  and  to  unhook  him  ;  and  I 
Ijad  another  on  before  D.  came  back. 

He  had  arranged  to  ^o  far  up  the  river  and  sleep,  so 
he  started  off  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  after  lunch  Nellie 
and  I  went  out  with  Fred."  As  the  s^mon  would  not 
>ise,  we  both  fished  for  trout,  and  had  great  fun.  To 
our  surprise,  on  returnirtg  honie  we  foi^nd  D,  ;  no  fish 
had  arrived  so  far  up  the  river,  so  of  course' he  did  riot 
stay,  and  we  arranged  to  go  "  out  "  to-morrow.  ' 

IVeduesday,  4th. — All    busy^packing.      D.    stayed   at  , 
home,  and  I  went  out  for  an  hour,  and  .caught  ten  trout 
— one   3^J  lbs.,  and  the  others  smaller.      I  fi&h  with  a 
beautiful   little' bamboo  rod  which    with  the   reel  only 
weighs  six  ounces. 

It  was  a  lovely  day;  I  was  quite  sorry  tb  leave  our 
camp,  as  I  enjoyed  it  very  much  this  year,  and  we  were 
less  troubled  with  flies  than  usual.  We  had  the  Ca|)tain 
to  dine  with  us,  and  started  immediately  after  dinner, 
Thursday,  sth.—Kht3iW\\{\x\  day,  and  a  lovely  sunset  . 
,,and  double  rainbow.  "  A  rainbow  at  night  is  a  sailor's 
delight,"  so  we  Hope  it  will  be  very  fine  to-nii^frow.  when 


i 


CH.  xvn 

the  water, 
t  home  one 

i  while  fish- 
.  I  hooked 
ion.  -J,  was 
e  riter,  afid 
k^ith  me,  ag 
wanted  it. 
le  rapid,  so 
ler  my  rod. 
J  tired  fhe 
3ut  I  man- 
liim  ;  and  I 

id  sl-eep,  so 
nch  Nellie 
would  not 
t  fun.  To 
).  ;  no  fish 
le  did   riot 

^•^        ■ .  .  "    - 
stayed   at  , 
t  ten  trout 
i&h  with  a 
reel  only 

i  leave  our 
d  we  were 
le  Ca|>tain 
dinner, 
e\y  &uriset 
>  a  sailor's 
row,  when 


JUNE  1877 


■h\. 


TADOUSAC. 


t^in 


Friday,  <5//i.-Arri vecf  about  eight  in  the  morning  •  -a 
most  beautiful  day,  the  children  all  well,  and  enjoying 
the  seaside  very  much.     We  sat  out  on  the.b'aleony:  and    , 
walked  on  the  rocks. 

-        Sunday    istA.-^t  have  spent    a  very    plea^am^-tcn 
days.      The  weather  has  been  lovely,  and  we  have,«at 
out  the  most  of  the  (Tay.      We  were  able  to  bathe  dc- 
casionally,  although  the. water   is  always  very  cold    here  * 
—quite  icy.  . 

D  drew  agood  deal,  and  had  finished  some  very  nice   / 
sketches,  which  yesterday  met  with  a  sad  mishap      We  ■ 
went  on  a  fishing  expedition   up  the   Saguenay,  taking  .. 
the  G.llespies  with  us  in  the  Druul     We  breakfasted  on^"^" 
board,  and   then  had  a' very  pleasant    voyage   crf^  two   ■ 
hours  to   the   fishing-grounds.     When   we  got  back  "D 
found  he  had  left  all  his  sketching  things  and   finished 
drawings  below  high-water  mark  at  the  fishing-place     He 
sent  a  mart  b  a  canoe  to  look  for  them;  who  fbund  then! 
soaked  and  spoiled.  ^  ' 

We  are  now  returning  to  Ottaw.  to  pfepare  for  a  tour 
in  Manitoba,  to  which  we  are  all  looking  forward  with 
great  pleastire.  1 


''i>l 


i^                                ( 

-'^ 

''       0 

,     r  ^ 

t 

t 

:*\ 

n 

^         » 

\        -     , 

1 

f 

* 

-/  , 

■              • 

i 

■■   • 

— — f — 

* 

1 

L   i^B 

^ 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 


\ 


THE    NORTHWEST. 

Monday,  July  joth.-^Ne:  left  Ottawa  this  mornfng  in 
good  spirits  and  in  smartish  clothes,  which  we  put  on 
for  the  guard  of  honor  and  the  friends  who  come  to  see 
us  start.  Once  really  off,  We  arrayed  ourselves  in  cooler 
and  more  suitable  traveling  garments. 

■      -Thfe  day  was  not  so  hot  as  we  expected,  and  when  bed- 
time cajne  we  all  acknowledged  that  the  time  had  flown. 
,  The  maids,  who'are   traveling  more  luxuriously  than, 

any  ladies  on  board,  grunible  at  having  to  sla^p  in  the 
ordinary  Pullman.     Nellie  and  I  have'k<:abitfTogether. 

'r««</a>',j/j/'.— The  tfain  behaved  in  an  extraordinary 
manner  during  the  night.  It  rushed  along  at  a  furious 
pace  for  A.  couple  of  miles,  pulled  up  with  a  frightful 
bump,  stopped  to  shriek,  went  on  again  after  three  or 
four  jerks,  and  in  this  way  kept  us  thoroughly  awake 
If,   /  fo''  what  appeared  the  whole  night,  but  was,  I  siippose, 

less  than  half  of  it.  I  felt  a  tittle  the  worse  for  the 
night's  shaking,  but  a  good  breakfast  in  .our  own  car 
and'an  hour  spent  outside  of  it  in  the  fresh  morning  air 
quite  revived  riie. 

We  had  such  a, dusty  day:  five  minutes  suflficed  to 

coyer  tables,  sofas',  out  faces,  hands  and  hair  with  the 

dirtiest  powder;  and   it  was  quite  useless  to  wash,  for 

we  became  a3ba"(j[  as- <>Ver  immediately  after.     We  werp 

Td  glad  wh^nX*  arrivedaFXake  Michigan,  and  felt  the 


i.-* 


r;:S  ;: 


^4»t  '  <*"*!*■" 


AUG.  1877 


sr.  PAd£ 


339 


..     the  d.s,  of  the  railway,     We  had  »  hour  W<hnm!f 
a„^^  ..„ed  .0  o..  P.„„a„  .„.H,  .he  be:U-L'?ui 

of  the  M.ss.sMppi,  on  wh.ch  th'e  town  is  buik  '  ^ 

«nH  .'  V^  ''^'' u"  ^  ^°'""  gentlemen  came  on  board 
and  took  us  to  the -hotel  in  c"arr,iages  ;  and  we  er^oved' 
•       a  n.ght  "  on  shore  "  very  much  Weed  ^"-""^^^^^    - 

dire^vl^'  "^Z^l  "^"^^  ^8.30.  and  almost 
.      du-ectly  after  held  a  little  reception.     A  great  number 

a  speech:   to  wh.ch    D.  replied.      They^told  m»5  after 
wards  they  were  " more  than  delighted"  witM^s^": 

This  affair  was  scarcely  over  when  I  was  hurried  off 

iJ.  and   r  General  Johnston,  and  iVIr.  Rice  went      Thev 

were  bpth  pleasant  men.  citizens  of  this  town  ;  th.  litter 

.     had  been  for  mahy  years  in  Congress,  and  was  a  p  V  o„ 

t.^ whom  evefy  o,e  appealed,  fpr  every  s6tt  -of  '121 

_  The  second  carriage' Contained"  CTen^ral  Terry  »t,d 
the  Littletons.  -  General  Terry  i^  the  officer  who  It^t 
command  when  General  CUsL  aU«cked    hi  Inln         " 

i^««H<j,  Hie  A.  jj.  C.'s.  and  Mow  gtjitlfemen. 

Wff  drqvc  to  Mianetpoli,,,  through'  a  flat  country,     ' 


^\  . 


■V>^A 


340 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XViil 


HI- 


sometimes  bush,  sometimes  prairie,  and  Sometimes 
beautiful  cornfields.  Minneapolis  is  younger  than  St. 
Paul,  the  latter  being  about  thirty  years  of  age ;  it  is, 
I  think,  more  flourishing-looking,  and  the  residences  it) 
,  the  town,  each  surrounded  with  lawns  and  flower-gar- 
dens,'look  charming  and  com^rtable.  The  hotel  whe^ 
we  lunched  is  a  very  fine  one/"* 

We  soon  set  off  a^gain,  and  went  ^0  see  the  St.  An- 
thony Falls.  They  consist  of  a  serllg^f  rapids  and  an 
artificial  "  slide " ;  the  water  wa^  vi^earing  away  the 
rock,  and  the  jjand  of  man  has  intervened  to  keep  it 
in  check,  and  to  prevent  #he  lumber  interests  being 
injured  by  Nature.  Then  we  went  over  a  flour-mill, 
the  flour  here  being  a  great  sp<'cialit('.  This  mill  turns 
out  a  thousand> barrels  a  day,  some  of  a  peculiar,  very, 
white  quality,\  which  makes  the  most  delicious  bread;, 
it  contains  the  most  nutritious  parts  of  the  wheat,  and 
ife  made  by  a.  newly-invented,  process;  but  I  will  not 
attempt,  to  describe  this,  any  more  than  I  have  the 
engineering  works  on  the  river. 

Into  our  carriages  ag^iin,  and  off  to  see  the  Minne- 
haha Falls.  "  From  the  waterfafl,  l^e  called  her  '  Minne-  - 
haha  '— '  Laughii^g  Water."'"  The  season  has-been  very 
dry,  and  there  was  very  little  water  coming  over  the 
Fall;  but  I  am  very  glad  to  have  seen  jt,  as  Longfel- 
low's poem  is  one  of  my  earliest  recoHections.  When 
w«  returned  to' our  ca|fJ4J?^s  we  changed  company  a 
Jitlje  General  Terry  canie  with  us,  and  we  wertt  with 
him  to  the  Pdrt 

■it  is  beautifufly  situated  on  k  very  high  cliff  at  the* 
niaction  4f  the  Mississippi  and  the  Minnesota,     As  we 
^foVe.tntO  the  court  formed  by  the  barracks^  We  were' 
saltited  by  seldiers,  and  found  the  troopg  and  the  band 
»rr^ns;ed  (what  an  unmi4itarv  ftXprpssinn  f)  on  the  gr.^c,r, 


looking  so  gay  with  their  uniforms  and  colors..  The 


Hi^Ha^H 


AUG.  1877 


THE  FORT. 


341 


band  played,  and  we  walked  about,  and  thenth,>  nffi 

,Tt  ''"''  '°  ""o"'"  lady,  and  throuirh 

fottmcauon,  looking  over  the  rivers.     I,   „as  covered 
overhead,   and  there  was  a  balustrade  rou"  d  h  Irl, 
n,e„ted  with  flags.     Such  a  pretty  place      We  '^3 

ZW^:  ""  .^°°''  ^'^'""'"^  ^i'  -"  'ook.nnt 'the 
When  we  left  we  crossed  the  Mississippi  in  a  sort  of 

Ta     P„' ed  i'n  '"T"'  "'  '"^  "^"  '"^"  ■•  ">=  flat-boat 
was  pulled  m  a  slantmg  direction,  so  that  the  stream 

We  reached  St.  Paul  about  eight  o'clock,  said  good 

to  Mr  R,ce  s  daughters,  who  appeared  to  be  very  nice 
girls^the  only  ladies  Ve  hav«  k.h  "     ^"^^  "'^^^ 

•seeing  here      Nellie  Jam.  h  *".  «PPortunity  of  , 

Tn  h„.  .  ™®  ^""'^  '"  tremendous  SDirit«i 

o  t  rr'''\''''''  "^^  ^  ^'^^^-^  -ho  had  laid  hi'  ^f ;". 

out   to  amuse  her,  and  whom  she  thinks  very  <' witfV 
and  de   irhtfa!       Af  fi,^  r    .    .  '""k>>  very     witty 

:;a:in7d:j^rthrhVa?"' '-' "'°'''  ^''^™-^ 

attemnr  '"^P"^/'^  -^"-^  serenaded  by  a  b«nd^and  an 
attempt  was  made  to  induce  D  to  sn^afc  f«  ^ana  an 
but  he  declined^  Everv  on!  u  ^V^^*"'  *"  '^^^^  ""*d; 
to  he  K     "^""^"^     ^'Very  one  has  been  so  kmd  and  civil 

J^r,<i^y,.J^ZZWc  left  the  hotel  early  in  themornm..    ^. 
and  once  more  got  into  our  tr^.n     w    •      ^"*'"'°'^""?«.  '" 

Koi  into  our  tram.     We  journeyed  on  alj  * 


. ,     A  .«  ,  ..«|.  H'    -    It 


342 


MV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVIII 


I- 


day,  through  &Wamps,  lakes,  and  prairie-lartds.  In  the 
evening  wb  went  through  some  burning  woods.  They 
must  have  been  on  fire  in  about  a  hundred  places,  but 
the  flames  had  not  yet  joined  together  into  one  devastat- 
ing sHedt.         , 

Saturday i  4th. — I  was  awoke  by  the  most  disagree- 
able bumping  and  jolting,  and  soon  discovered  that  we, 
were  off  the  line.  It  took  us  two  hours  And  many  shak- 
ings before  we  got  on  again.  We  were  now  traveling 
through  the  flattest  of  flat  prairies,  very  ugly  and  very 
green.  About  ten  o'clock  by  the  new  time — for  our 
watches  are  called  upon  to  change  their  opinions  as  to 
the  hour  at  every  plac€  we  get  to — we  founff  ourselves 
at  Fisher's  Landing,  and  the  steamer  ready  to  take  us 
up  the  Red  River. 

We  have  to  leave  our  houjse-upon-wheels,  and  to  em* 
bark  upon  the  boat,  which  friendly  hands  have  decorated 
with  flags,  wreaths  of  leaves,  and  flowers.  She — the 
steamer— -is  a -*  stern-wheeler,  such  as  we  had  '  on  the 
Fraser  River;,  she  draws  very  little  water,  and  certainly 
has  an  extraordinary  passage  to  perform.  The  river, 
which  to  ail  intents  and  purposes  is  the  Red  River  (the 
first  few  miles  it  is  called  the  Red  r|ake  River),  is  very 
muddy,  very  narrow,  and  extremely  sinuous.  I  can 
scarcely  convey  to  you  an  idea  of  the  extraordinary 
manner  in  which  it  twists  and  turns  itself  about :  think 
of  a   braiding-pattern,  or   of  a  zigzag  path  up  a  very 

l^steep  hill ;  or  imagine  sailing  through  hundreds  of  small 
ponds  all  joined  together,  the  second  being  concealed 
by  the  curve  of  the  first,  and  yqu  ma,y  form  an  idea 
of  it. 

•I  can  only  tell  you  that  we  go  from  one  bank  to  the 
other,  crushing  and  crashing  against   the  trees,  which 

Jgj^yy  dawa  to  the,  water-side^  tlifcJ3raiiche& -S-W^sep  .Qver— 


the  deck,  and  fly  in  our  faces,  and  leave  pieces  behind  j 


C 


■MBi^^a^—i 


CH.  xvni 

;.  In  the 
Is.  They 
laces,  but 
devastat- 

disagree- 
d  that  vfe, 
any  shak- 
traveling 
and  very 
—for  our 
ons  as  to 
ourselves 
)  take  us 

id  to  em* 
lecorated 
She — the 
1  on  the 
certainly 
he  river, 
.iver  (the 
),  is  very 
I  can 
Lord.inary 
It:  think 
p  a  very 

of  small 
oncealed 

an   idea 

ilk  "to  the 
es,  which 
egp.  -Oyer,,. 
;s  behind  * 


■i 


iHi 


(     e 


\ 


t 


t 


/■ 


'\ 


/■ 


''■'TSf/'^lf^  9W 


AUG.  1877 


T/f£  RED  RIVER. 


\ 


t 


343 


them.  I  had  just  written  this  when  I  gave  a  shriek  as  I 
saw  my  mk-bottle  on  the  point  of  being  swept  overboard 
byanmtrus.ve  tree;  and  D.'s  hat  was  knocked  off  Ins 
.  head  by  it.  The  consequence  ofthis  curious  navigation 
IS  that  we  never  really  go  onJ|Uore  than  three  min- 
utes at  a  time:  we  run  againUfne  bank,  our  steam  is 
Shut  off,  and  m  some  mysterious  manner  we  swing  round 
till  our  bow  is  into  the  other;  then  we  rebound,  and  go 

2e'T  'n"^"'  ''"  '''  '^"'■P  ^"^^^>>g«  "s  up  against 
the  s.de.     Our  stern  wheel  ,s  very  p/fen  ashore,  and  our 

captam  and  pilot  must  require  the  patience  of  saints      I 

told  you  when  the  last  branch  came  on  board-  well   I 

have  been  writing  as  fast  as  possible  since,  and  now  ;e 

are  ashore  on  the  other  side ;  so  you  may  easily  believe 

that  we  travel  seventeen  miles  for  two  that  we  make 

a.r^I  don  t  kno^ow  bad  our  language  might  not  be- 

We  were^told  at  St.   Paul   that  we  should  be  eaten 
^.th  mosqu.toes;  that  no  oil,  no  veils,  no  gloves   no  " 


leggmgs  would  keep  out  t!^  devouring  monsters;  fa^^cj! 

find  tflere   are  none,  and  that   we 


our  delight,  then,  to 

'  '  ... V— V      ttit      nunc, 

are  able  to  s.t  gloveless  on^deck  and  write, 
n'  ,^?  ^^'^"^/^^^^d  ^-^ly-  and  were  hungry  for  a  one- 
o  dock  lunch,  which  was  more.elegant  than  substantial 
S^rdmes  were  the  p'^c.  </e  r^sis,an,e,  and  ice-cream    he 
Tnost  attractive  dish  to  be  procured      T  LT ^  ,? 

be  more-suited  to  our  appetS^    "^^       ''''"  '""'''  "^" 

Rivl!^.  r'f  "^'- '^''^^   "^^^   '^  ^he   "Red  Lake 

^Zy  L^:^T  """  ''  '''''''  ^^°"^h  the  distance 

heRLfifr  vT/°'"'  '"  P°'"^-     ^h^"^^  reached 

or  us  fo^r      1  '7' '^""^  *'^^  stream  wide  enough 

^^  to  go  straight  down  it,  less  sinuou.,  but  ^jte  as 


^^s>T«  ""''"'"'^^""ffv    TT^ees  come  dowfTto  the 
waters  edge,  and  one  can  see  nothing  beyond  them; 


1 


r..a^-aagc- 


: 

J  '.'             -  .    • 

".    * 

V 

■   ., 

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33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WHSTIR.N.Y    I4SS0 

(716)  •7a-4S03 


344 


MV  CAXAD/AJV  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVIII 


Wiii 


\\  I 


behind  stretches  out  the  prairie,  and  every  now  and 
tlieu  we  were  just  able  to  sec  how  thin  the  screen  of 
trees  really  is  between  the  river  and  tlie  plains. 

Alas!    alas!     towards    evening    tlie    mosquitoes   ap- 
peared, and   bit   us   liorribly.     At   dinner  (a  very  good 
one)  we  weie  eaten  while  eatnig,  and  were  very  glad  to 
leave   the   lighted    saloon,   and  sit  on   the  bow  of  the 
steamer  in  the  air.     The  night  was  very  dark,  and  the 
river  looked  gloomy  and  mysterious,  and  we  sat  there 
and  watched   the  black   retUctions  in  the  water.     Our 
steamer   whistled,  and  in   the  distance  we  lieard  it  an- 
swered.     Slowly   we  turned  a  point  and   saw  another 
boat  approaching  us.     It   lt)oked  beautiful  in    the  dark, 
with   two   great    bull's-eyes,   green   and    red   lamjjs  and 
otiier  lights  on  deck,  creeping  towards  us;  we  stopped, 
and  backed  into  the  shore,  that   it   might  pass  us.     It 
came  close  and  fired  off   a  cannon,  and  we  saw  on  the 
deck   a  large   transparency  with  the  words  "Welcome, 
Lord   l)ulferin"on    it,  and   two  girls   dressed   in    white 
with  flags  in  their   hands;  then  a  voice  sang  "Canada, 
sweet  Canada,"  and  many  more  voices  joined  the  chorus, 
and  they  sang  "  Cod  save  the  Queen  "  and   "  Rule,  Bri- 
tannia," and  cheered  for  the  Covernor-Ceneral  as  they 
began  to  move  slowly  away,  and  he  had   only  just  time 
to  call  out  a  few  words  of  thanks  before  they  disappeared 
into  the  darkness. 

It  was  very  striking,  and  we  scarcely  recovered  from 
our  surprise  and  bewilderment  before  the  thing  was 
gone. 

Sunday,  i;th. — There  was  a  very  heavy  shower  of  rain 
this  morning,  but  happily  it  cleared  up  before  we  reached 
Pembina;  there  the  American  troops  were  drawn  up  to 
receive  us,  and  we  went  ashore,  and  up  to  the  Fort, 
where  we  saw  four  ladies  and  some  inameuvres,  and 
spent  about  an  hour.     A  little  way   farther,  and    wc 


I    H 


CH.  XVIII 

:ry  now  and 
he  screen  of 
iins. 

(squitoes  ap- 
a  very  good 
very  glad  to 

bow  of  the 
lark,  and  the 
\vc  sat  there 
water.  Our 
heard  it  an- 
saw  another 
in  the  dark, 
J  lainjjs  and 
we  stojiped, 
pass  us.  Jt 
:  saw  on  the 

"  Welcome, 
ed  in  white 
ijj  "Canada, 
J  the  chorus, 

"  Rule,  Bri- 
eral  as  they 
ly  just  time 
disappeared 

overed  from 
:   thing   was 

ower  of  rain 
;  we  reached 
Irawn  up  to 
<)  the  Fort, 
I'uvres,  and 
er,  and    wd 


AUG.  1877 


THE  FJiOXT/KN. 


345 


^t'm''';r;^' '•''"' ""^^'^'-^-^--^ianterr. 

-everyprettya;:he!^:^Ue^Lr!:^^'''^'•^"'' 

.no^ecnhemalldown^UefounrpJo:;;::^^ 
Fci  on  It,  at.d    tlags  all   round  it     1   v..r..  1 

of  honor  (m.lit.a)   anri   -,   /  '     ^''"''^  ^'"^''^ 

Someof  til       V  ■'■^'  '"■^'"«"'  '^"^'^'^  ^"''ians. 

bomt  of    Me  latter  were  n,  red  coats,  some  in  blankets 

cune   wUMKunted   faces,  feathers   n,   the.r  ha'^^S^^ 
n.cdak,  etc. ;  others  were  more  cjuietlv  got  up    but    U 

U  c  walked  dow.,  an,!  looked  at  the  women  and  chil- 

sacred.  Ihe  lust  described  then,  as  very  happy  and 
Pn.sperous,  the  second  named  some  grievance  to  be  re- 
uressed. 

U  also  spoke  to  the  Mennonites  (Russians) :  thev  are 
KCttu^g  on  very  well,  and  want  to  have  n,anv  n^orV.  of 
tl'c.r  people  out  here.  I),  e.xplained  to  them  that  as  far 
as  we  are  concerned  we  should  be  verv  «lad  to  h  ,ve 
tl.cm.  but  that  it  was  in,p..ssible  for  us  to  take  any  steps 
f  l>nug  then,  from  the.r  own  homes.  They  are  very 
Kood  settlers,  and  in  ad.lition  to  the  virtues  of  sobriety 
:"Hl  '"dustry  they  add  the  advantage  of  bring.ug  money 
•  nto  the  country.  ' 

In  the  afternoon  we  had   prayers  on   board,  and   the 

jrentlemen    bathed    ,n    the    Red     River;    they    seemed 

•'   enjoy   ,t    very  much,   and   stayed    in    so    io„g   that 

l>e  moscpmoes  on  shore  found   us  out,  and  came  on 

uourtl. 


w 


reach  Win 


e  were  stationary  all   ni^hl.  a 


s  we  did   not  want  t 


nipcg  till  a  reasonable  hour  in  th 


n 


e  morning. 


I 


346 


.)/>■   C.W'ADIAX  JOURXAL 


CH.  xvui 


At  five  o'clock  the  gentlemen  got  up,  and  went  out 
duck-shooting,  and  shot  four  birds. 

We  have  been  very  comfortable  on  board,  though 
our  sleeping-cabins  are  extremely  small,  and  there  is 
scarcely  room  to  turn  round  in  them. 

We  heard  Nellie  describe  her  papa  to  a  girl,  who 
asked  her  to  point  out  the  Governor-deneral,  as  "  the 
gentleman  in  the  chimney-pot."  She  was  very  anxious 
to  get  Colonel  Littleton  to  tell  her  the  Kreemason 
secrets,  and,  failing,  saiil,  with  a  sigh  of  relief,  "Well,  I 
dare  say  when  women  get  their  rights  we  shall  know 
them." 

My  only  difficulty  is  in  keeping  her  at  all  smart  on 
these  occasions,  for  no  sooner  is  she  dressed  than  she 
visits  the  coal-hole,  or  clinil)s  into  some  untliought-of 
place,  and  returns  to  me,  each  of  her  exploits  marked  by 
stains  and  smudges. 

Monday,  6th. — We  left  our  anchorage  early  in  the 
morning,  and  came  in  sight  of  Fort  Garry  about  ten 
o'clock.  The  Red  River  appears  to  divide  the  town  in 
two,  but  we  left  it,  and  turned  into  the  Assiniboine, 
round  the  corner  of  which  we  found  the  wharf.  We  hao 
two  hours  to  wait  before  landing.  Some  people  came 
on  board  to  see  the  Governor-General,  and  he  arranged 
for  me  to  start  half  an  hour  before  him,  and  to  go  to 
the  City  Hall,  where  we  ladies  sat  till  the  noise  of  banda 
and  shouting  announced  his  arrival  in  a  carriage-and- 
four. 

The  town  of  Winnipeg  is  rapidly  increasing,  and  to- 
day, with  its  decorations  of  transplanted  trees  and  flags, 
it  looked  gay  and  pretty.  A  very  large  number  of  peo- 
ple assembled  round  the  platform,  and  came  along  the 
streets  with  I).,  and  some  very  handsome  arches  had 
been  put  up.  Addresses  were  read  and  answered,  the 
soldiers  inspected,  and  then  I  got  with  D,  into  the  car- 


AUG.  1B77 


wi.vxiPEa. 


347 


Hage,  and  dr„v=,„..sl,v„   Heights,".. here  «  are  .0 

-.'j'^^f^.:^-:---^---^oa. 

tenant-Governor   Mr    Morric  ,  I  he  Lieu- 

nJ'n'l-  ''•''u'""  ''  ^  '"""8^^'  ^"d   lent  to  us  bv  Mr 

's  really  too  far  away  to  enterfiin  'n     n       T         "'" 
china,  or  the  knives  and  fork     wherewi  h  t  "\^'" 

or  a  dinner  '  '  ^^^'"""^'^^  '«  &'ve  a  ball 

.i.etr.r;'Ktrt;".t.:„';';  ir":  f  ^  •" "  '- 

i,aitwa>,  Which  forms  a  n  re  oI<I.fTthi,.„„^ 
court  in  front  of  the  house.  old-fashioned 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  a  "  Parlor  Kntertainment  " 
-J-  ongs.  speeches,  and  change  of  costumes-  "n-H 


track  on  the  prairie,  and 


'<>m  the  town.,     'r.i. 


-'3u  is  a  sort  of 


we  soon  found  that  we  were  off 


I       1! 


s% 


348 


MY  CANADIA.W  JOURS'AL. 


CH.  XVIII 


I  r 


li.*:! 


it.  We  asked  the  other  carriage  to  go  first,  and  the 
driver  replied  that  he  had  no  lights  ;  our  man  said  his 
lamps  dazzled  him,  so  finally  the  other  carriage  did  go 
first.  It  took  us  over  an  hour  to  get  back,  and  if  the 
four  other  nights  on  which  we  have  to  go  into  Winnipeg 
are  dark  or  wet,  I  don't  know  what  we  shall  do. 

Wednesday,  8lh. — We  had  a  visit  from  an  Indian.  He 
was  sent  by  a  chief,  who  lives  twenty-si.v  miles  away,  to 
ask  when  the  Governor-General  would  visit  him.  The 
messenger  was  a  fine-looking  man.  His  hair  was  long, 
and  he  wore  a  fillet  round  his  head  with  eagles'  feathers 
fastened  into  it.  He  had  a  red-cloth  tunic  embroidered 
with  beads,  with  quantities  of  ermine  tails  hanging  down 
from  all  the  seams,  each  tail  sewn  into  the  center  of  a 
circle  of  beads.  Round  his  neck  he  wore  a  large  neck- 
lace of  bears'  claws,  moccasins  on  his  feet,  and  European 
trousers,  which  were  generally  hidden  by  a  large  blue 
blanket,  which  he  pulled  round  him  in  very  graceful 
folds.  We  had  rather  a  long  talk  with  him,  and  gave 
him  some  breakfast;  he  ate  a  few  mouthfuls,  and  then 
asked  for  paper  in  whicl;  to  wrap  up  the  rest.  Mrs.  Lit- 
tleton asked  him  about  his  religion.  He  said  lie  had 
none — that  the  Indians  were  here  from  the  Creation, 
that  there  was  one  Great  Spirit,  but  that  he  found  "re- 
ligion "  cost  money,  and  so  it  was  better  not  to  have 
any.  He  was  given  a  jiound  of  tea,  one  of  tobacco,  his 
passage  home  in  a  steamer,  and  an  order  for  some  pro- 
visions on  the  way. 

We  drove  into  Winnipeg  to  see  some  games,  and  were 
silting  on  a  platform,  and  rather  enjoying  ourselves, 
when  the  most  desperate  shower  came  on.  Our  cover- 
ing was  soon  soaked  through,  and  we  bundled  into  our 
carriage  as  (juickly  as  we  could,  but  not  before  we  were 
very  much  damaged  ;  feathers  out  of  curl,  dresses  dirtied. 
The  people  were  wonderfully  good-tempered  ;  the  whole 


i-I 


CH.  XVIII 


AUG.  1877 

crowd  seemed  to  b 


ST.  BOX /FACE. 

e  in  a  fit  of  laughter,  and  it 


ing  to  see  some  holding  a  bit  of  sail 


349 


was  amiis- 


)ver  them,  soldiers 


^.Uh  wheelbarrows  on  their  backs  for  shelter,  and  others 
s.tt.ng  under  the  shade  of  a  big  drum.  One  sergeant 
went  about  i„  the  funniest  way,  holding  a  bit  of  wood 
over  his  head,  and  pretending  he  could  not  see  from 
imder  it.  Hai)pily,  we  had  not  to  go  into  town  again  in 
the  evening.  Mr.  Campbell  dined  at  Winnipeg,  and  lust 
h.s  way  on  the  prairie  coming  back;  he  got  up  to  his 
knees  in  mud,  and  at  last  made  for  a  light,  and  got  a 
shake-down  for  the  night  in  a  farmer's  cottage 

T/iursJay,  j^Z/i.-We  started  off  after  breakfast  to  vi.it 
the  Archbishop  on    the  other  side  of  the  river    at  St 
Honiface.     He  and  his  clergy  received  us  at  the'palace' 
where    two    addresses    were    read.      Then    we   saw   the' 
church,  and  went  on  to  a  convent. 

The  Grey  Sisters  have  about  thirty  children  under 
their  care  ;  in  these  thirty  there  are  representatives  of 
eleven  different  nationalities.  Each  child  had  a  little 
flag  with  "  Welcome  "  written  in  her  own  tongue  upon 
.t.  here  were  Canadian  French.  Knglish,  Irish,  half- 
breeds,  and  different  Indian  tribes. 

The  weather  was  really  nice,  and  we  sat  on  the  bal- 
cony untd  It  was  time  to  dress  for  the  ball  at  Govern- 
ment House.  We  were  asked  at  nine  o'clock  and  went 
punctually,  but  ••  in  honor  of  us  "  the  other  people  were 
late,  and  we  stood  about  for  a  long  time  before  the 
dancing  began.  A  fine  room  had  been  put  up  for  the 
occasion,  and  everything  went  off  very  well 

Ail  the  ladies  were  well  dressed,  and  the  dancing  as 
at  Ottawa  or  London.  .Six  years  ago,  at  a  ball  here, 
ladies  would  have  come  in  moccasins,  and  danced  noth- 
■ng  but  the  Red  River  jig.     This  state  of  society  would 


iiave  had  some  charm  fo 


rapidly  the  place  grows,  and  ho 


r  lis,  but  the  rhanire  sh 


(iws  ho 


w 


i 


h      I 


fill 


w  quickly  outside  ideas 


350 


A/y  CA.y AD/AX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  xvm 


f4 


make  their  way  in.  The  jig  was  danced  for  us;  it  is 
exactly  the  same  as  an  Irish  jig.  The  supper  was  good 
and  the  table  prettily  decorated  with  flowers  The  fruit 
had  to  be  imported,  as  none  grows  here  yet.  'Ihe  Ro- 
man Catholic  and  English  bishops  both  came  to  the  ball 
for  a  few  minutes. 

The  drive  back  was  very  dark  in  spite  of  a  fine  dis- 
play of  lightning  on  the  horizon.  The  second  carriage 
drove  up  against  a  post,  and  broke  a  spring,  and  Cap- 
tarn  Smith  had  to  jump  down  every  now  and  then  to  see 
if  we  were  on  the  road,  and  the  driver  kept  "  wishing  he 
was  at  home." 

Friday,  wt/i.—We  held  a  reception  at  the  City  Hall  at 
three  o'clock.  It  did  not  last  very  long,  but  as  we  had 
to  attend  a  concert  in  the  evening  we  decided  to  dine  at 
the  hotel,  and  not  to  drive  out  to  Silver  Heights.  The 
hotel-keeper  insisted  upon  giving  us  our  dinner  free. 

Mrs.  Littleton  and  I  went  over  the  Fort,  and  through 
the  Hudson  Bay  Stores.  The  shop  is  a  very  good  one 
and  I  purchased  a  hat  for  my  rough  expeditions,  and  a 
jacket  of  white  caribou-skin,  embroidered  in  silk  by  the 
Indians.  We  also  saw  the  furs.  The  room  full  of  buffa- 
lo-robes smelt  horribly;  but  I  bore  it,  being  determined 
to  see  all  I  could.  I  believe  the  smell  is  not  altogether 
from  the  skins,  but  is  mixed  with  the  odor  of  the  Indian 
camp.  Another  place  was  full  of  various  skins:  wolf, 
grizzly  bear,  cinnamon  bear,  foxes  of  all  sorts,  etc 

The  concert  was  "classical,"  and  its  great  merit  was 
the  shortness  of  it. 

Nellie  spent  the  afternoon  at  the  Government  House 
where  there  are  three  children,  but  she  dined  with  the 
grown-up  people,  and  enjoyed  herself  very  much. 

^^/z-i/zv/m-, /////.—There  were  races  to-dav  at  Huffalo 
Park,  and  happily  the  changeable  climate  did  not  spoil 
them.     They  were  held  in  a  large  piece  of  prairie,  walled 


CH.  XVIII 


AUG.  1877 

in  by  a  stout  pal 


LASSO/XG. 


we  had  a  capital  stand  in 


paling;  numbers  of  people  were  th 


r  seeing  evervthi 


35' 
ere,  and 


ng. 


I  he  races  we-e  the  least  interest.ng  part  „f  the  ner 
hZT'  '.r'"  ""'  ^"'  '''""  "vet  f„r  ,  ,     n^^- 
P'  1  ng,    and  every  one  went  as  fast  a,,  he  cnf.l 
»nat  we  most  enioved  seeintr  u-n  = 

wild  cow.     He  rode  bea^tifnlT  f  "  ''''"'"«^  ^ 

h^r  t,  beautifully,  and  sent  the  lasso  round 

up        heL  he  r;  f  "■"  °"  ""  '"''■  ""'""  '"  «" 
"F-      i  nen  ne  let  her  vn   hnf  !«<•♦  »i      i  , 

h«r  K  J  *   '  '^"  ^'^^  'asso  fastened  to 

wfsted'lt  .  :""'  ^°  ""'°  ^'^^  ^-^  -hich  was 

hemlnH  ""^  ^"'  '^'  P^°P'^  ^^^hered  in  about 

them,  and  as  soon  as  the  cow  was  loose  there  was  such 
a  stampede !     She  knocked  over  two  men,  but  they  we 
not  hurt,  and  there  waa  great  laughter  ^ 

wildne"'  thfs"""  ""  ""  ^'^  '"'''  *"  '  '''''  "f  «emi- 
selves  lit  H,  ""'  ""^""'  "'^'"'  ^"  -h-'''^  them- 
le       h^v  sho^^^^  """'  ""^  '-"'-'  ^'-^  to  be  lassoed 

lest  they  should  turn  savage.     We  were  surprised  to  see 
how  fast  they  could  run,  and  how  well  thev  could      mn 
or  their  big  heads  do  not  give  them  a    ^rra    i      Z' 
pearance.  ^  a<.iivc  ap- 

J-""/V.  /^M.-Went  to  church,  and  arrived  there  in 

me  to  escape  a  tremendous  storm  of  rain.     I  neve  saw 

suchachntate..  one  may  be  wet  through  on  the  fines" 

started,  nt'a  c      Ht^"l,''."'^".'^  '""'^  »h"  w. 


ot  a  cloud  in  the  sk 


nevertheless.  I  took  my  waterproof  and 


y,  and   such  a  hot  s 


un 


i  , 


umbrella,  and 


352 


A/y  CAXADIAX  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XVIII 


sure  enough  the  clouds  gathered,  and  a  thunderstorm 
came  on  with  rain  !     We  were  received  in  an  arbor  erect- 
ed for  the  occasion,  an  address  was  read,  and  I  fired  a 
shot,  which  was  off  the  target,  but  which  was  marked  a 
bull's-eye,  and  then  the  match  began.     In  two  or  three 
minutes  after  we  had  been   baked   in  the  sun,  the  rain 
came  on,  and  we  had  to  retire  into  a  large  shed,  where 
we  lunched,  and   D.  replied  to  a  speech  proposing  his 
health,  and  then,  as  the  rain  continued,  we  drove  home. 
In  the  evening  we  had  a  visit  from  eight  or  ten  In- 
dians, who  came   to  dance  and  sing  before  us.     Their 
faces  were  most  elaborately  painted,  and  they  came  up 
the  road   uttering  the  most   extraordinary  cries.     The 
men  were  fine,  good-looking,  and  tall,  of  the  Sioux  na- 
tion.    They  all  came  over  from  the  States  fifteen  years 
ago.     They  had  feathers  in  their  hair,  and  we  are  told 
that  each  white  feather  represents  a  white  man's  scalp 
taken  by  the  wearer,  and  a  colored  feather  stands  for  an 
Indian's  scalp.     When  they  reached  our  door  they  sat 
down   on   the  grass   and   hung  their  drum  upon   some 
stakes  they  brought  for  the  purpose;  then  half  of  them 
sat  down,  and  the  others  danced  round,  while  the  sitters 
beat  the  drum,  and  the  whole  company  shouted.     They 
kept  this   up  for  a  few  minutes,  and  after  a  little  rest 
began   the  same  thing  over  and  over  again.     We  dis- 
missed them  when  we  had  seen  enough,  but  D.  promised 
to  go  to  their  camp  in  the  morning. 

Tuesday,  14th.— \\q  had  to  leave  home  immediately 
after  breakfast,  as  His  Kx.  had  to  lay  the  foundation- 
stone  of  a  ladies'  college.  On  our  way  we  stopped  at 
the  Indian  encampment,  one  large  half-covered  tent, 
with  twenty  men  and  women  sleeping  in  it.  The  men 
did  not  seem  to  have  completed  their  toilet,  and  were 
still  putting  on  their  feathers,  and  having  their  hair 
plaited.     There  were  some  new  devices  on  their  faces. 


CH.  xvni 

thunderstorm 
n  arbor  erect- 
and  I  fired  a 
as  marked  a 
two  or  three 
sun,  the  rain 
:  shed,  where 
roposing  his 
drove  home, 
ht  or  ten  In- 
e  us.  Their 
hey  came  up 

cries.  The 
le  Sioux  na- 
fifteen  years 
we  are  told 
man's  scalp 
tands  for  an 
)or  they  sat 

upon  some 
lialf  of  them 
e  the  sitters 
ited.  They 
a  little  rest 
n.  We  dis- 
I).  promised 

mmediately 

foundation- 
stopped  at 

vered  tent, 
The  men 

t,  and  were 
their   hair 

their  faces. 


Al 


■c.  1877 


OA'    THE  PRA/RfE. 


353 
l!:Zr'  ''""  ^""^  ^"^•'^"  ^"^  ^'^^^^  --^  then  we 

srhZY    h'^"^  f   ^"''"^'^   ^-^"^   •«  building  a   g.rls' 
school.     He  .s  already  the  head,  and  ent, re  manage     of 
a  very  successful  college  for  boys,  and  afteHl  e       'ua 
ceremon.es  attendant  upon  laying  a  stone  we  dro 
see  ,t      A  very  n.ce  set  of  boys  received  us  at  the  door 
and  showed  us  into  the  house,  which,  f,>r  this  roun  " 
;s^^™ash.oned  one.     It  .s  on  U.  ban.lTu:^ 

The  Bishop  gave  us  hnich,  and  then  ne  returned  in 
.he    ote,  at  Winnipeg,  where  we  dress  for  the  ba  ,  :h.e„ 

by  the  citizens  to-night.  ^ 

We  dined  with  the  Governor,  and  were  escorted  to 
he  ball  by  a  torchlight  procession.  The  Citv  Hall  w  ! 
beaut.fully  decorated,  and  a  large  supper!ro:m  wa^b 
for  the  occasion,  and  made  to  look  like  a  tent  with  red 
whue,  and  blue  material.  The  room  and  floo  \"^;;; 
good,  the  ladies  well  dressed  inrl  fi.«  .  .  '1^'^^^'^ 
successful.  '  ^"^  '''^"''^  ''^'"S:  most 

on  tl!;t^'  ^-^"^  "^^-^  '^-'  -  -^y  P'easant  day 
on  the  pra  rie     We  managed  to  shake  off  our  sleepiness 
after    he  ball,  and  to  be  quite  readv  for  an  ea  h  '  a" 
.an     r  got  into  a  small  phaet<,n,  Mrs.  ■  :  deto  .\>      ' 
and  Alexander  into  an  ambulance  wagon,  and  or  th  le 
ge-Ulemen  mounted  their  horses,  and  of^  we  w         w   h 
a  tventy-eight-stone-weight  gentleman  in  a  bul^v  to 
Se  Birhop.r'cl"^  "^r^  "'""'^^^^'  and^lr'r;.! 

is  flal  VZT  "''  '"  •'^  ^"""  ^"^  ^-"^  '^"--.  -el 

eemed  to  hn'  l''l''^"'  '^  ^"  '""''"^^y  ^^^^  ^^^  h;rses 

^'lu      I'T"!"^:?  ^^'""^  -  through  it.     It 


peculiar  smell,  and  th< 


fP   ic  a   ApMrvUt^..} 


I;  ■• 


•t.  and  one  begins  to  feel  the  freedom-ofi^'he 


air  upon 


■savage  rais- 


I  i 


354 


My  CANADIAN  JOURNAL.  CH.  xvm 


m 


ing  one's  spirits.  We  drove  in  this  way  for  three  hours 
(the  servants  following),  our  only  adventure  being  the 
fall  of  Captain  Smith's  horse,  and  his  narrow  escape  of 
being  run  over  by  the  ambulance. 

Have  I  told  you  that  we  are  bound  for  the  Peni- 
tentiary  at  Rockwood  .>  The  building  is  erected  on  "  the 
big,  stony  mountain,"  which  is  really  only  a  rise  of 
eighty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  prairie.  It  is  lime- 
stone rock,  and  descends  quite  suddenly  on  the  other 
side— like  a  precipice— back  to  the  great  plain-level. 

When  we  got  within   half  a  mile  of  the   place,  we 

were  met  by  some  gentlemen,  who  said  they  wished  us 

to  arrive  in  a  vehicle  peculiar  to  the  country— namely,  a 

Red  River  cart.     These  are  made  entirely  of  wood,  and 

this  one  was  ornamented  with  boughs,  and  was  drawn 

by  eighty  oxen  !     D.  and  I,  Mrs.  Littleton  and  Nellie, 

got  in,  and  our  eighty  beasts,  each  conducted  by  a  man 

with  ribbons  round  his  hat,  began  to  move  off.     It  was 

such  fun,  and   looked  so  very  pretty  and  picturesque. 

Sometimes  an  ox  would  become  a  little  troublesome,  but 

he  was  soon  brought  to  order,  and  I  felt  like  a  barbarian 

princess  as  I  drove  along  in  this  carriage  of  primitive 

magnificence. 

We  passed  through  a  beautiful  triumphal  arch,  made 
of  grain,  with  a  spinning-wheel,  plow,  and  other  agri- 
cultural implements  on  the  top  of  it.  D.  here  got  out, 
and  answered  the  address,  and  then  we  returned  to  our 
triumphal  car,  and  drove  on,  attended  by  a  crowd,  to 
the  doors  of  the  prison.  A  very  handsome  arch  had 
been  put  up  about  a  hundred  yards  from  it,  and  fifty 
yards  nearer  to  the  house  was  another  :  these  two  were 
connected  with  chains  of  green  rope,  hung  from  poles 
with  flags  on  them,  and  a  new  road  ran  between  the  two, 
which  is  the  f^rst  part  of  a  road  to  Winnipeg.  I  was 
asked  to  open  it,  and  was  presented  with  a  spade.     I 


CH.  xvin 

r  three  hours 
Lire  being  the 
row  escape  of 

for  the  Peni- 
;cted  on  "the 
ily  a   rise  of 
-.     It  is  lime- 
on  the  other 
ain-level. 
he  place,  we 
ey  wished  us 
y— namely,  a 
of  wood,  and 
d  was  drawn 
I  and  Nellie, 
.ed  by  a  man 
'  off.     It  was 

picturesque, 
blesome,  but 
i  a  barbarian 

of  primitive 

1  arch,  made 
other  agri- 
;re  got  out, 
jrned  to  our 
a  crowd,  to 
ne  arch  had 
it,  and  fifty 
!se  two  were 
from  poles 
een  the  two, 
peg.  I  was 
a  spade.     I 


AUG.  1877  ROCK  WOOD  rEXlIEXTIARY. 

emptied  some  earth  out  of  a  smart  httlc  barrow    .nd 
then  we  all  went  in  to  lunch.  "-iriow.  and 

Our  hostess  is  a  half-breed    ladv     orettv    -..ul 

<>a.sts.  In  l„s  speech  1).  „,U1  t|,e„,  i|,„t  |,e  „„,,|,  ,,„ 
ferred  g„„,g,o  jail  i„  a  car,..,  leaving  i,i„  „„,"""" 
After  this,  „c  walked  „„  the  prairie,  f,  breathe  the 
<iehc„„.s  a,r  and  l„..Ked  at  the  snake.h„le,  whe"  Mrs 
Heds,,n  ,,„d  „,e.  they  had  kdled  ,,.„  snakes  in  three 
da,  s  n,  the  sprtng  :     „  seen.s  .„  be  a  re„de.v„„s,  wh e  e 

••Old.     He  l„„ked  at  the  prisoners'  garden   but  «l„.„   r 
prop™^t„l,,.,k  at  the  prison,. as\.d  all'':;.;::;: 

We    were    dreadfully   .sleenv    onrs.-Iv..  . 

actinllv  in  ti.^  s'ce]))     oursehes,    and    were 

actuall)  in  the  enjoyment  of  "  fortv  winL-^  "  ;., 

:;;:::r^;-;:r^t:-di::f --"-"- 

II  ■      *  11c  j,uaruians  or  the  nemtpnt  nr.r 

had  arranged  some  fireworks,  and  we  sat  u,  on  t       "    ir  ' 
watching  them  until  bedtime  ' 

Thurs^iay,  i6th.~\,  eleven  o'clock   lr..t  night  there 
was  the  most   beautiful  cloudless,  starlit  skv,  b  t      w  ! 
awoke  by  a  ternfic  thunderstorm,  peals  of  thunder   'n' 
flashes   of   v.v.d  lightning.     The  driver  of  one  of'  ou 
-.ons  was  knocked  down  by  the  shock  of       eta 

rci;:f-:;--— --e.meac;::^ 
^  swollen,  but  the  m^d"^^r too;: ::: :;: 

We  breakfasted  at  eight,  and  went  over  the  building 

'::r'"u;c;;'^:tr'^"'^^^^"^-^'^'--'^"'- 

fourteen  nl'  ?  "   '..     .^"^>' ^■^'^---- ^  ^here  are 


'■ells 


teen  officials  to  fourtee 


m 


are  not  nearly  so  good  as  th 


n  prisoners.     The  wome 


n's 


24 


le  men's,  and  I  felt  the 


356 


MY  CAXADIAX  JOURXAL. 


.!L« 


CH.  XVIII 

more  sorry  fur  this,  as  the  one  inmate  was  a  wretched 
lunatic. 

We  said  good-l)y  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hedson  and  drove 

nff  over  the  prairie   a«ain.     'I'i,c  storm   had  passed,  and 

the  day  was  lovely.     About  two  we  reached  St.  Andrews 

one  of  the  oide.st  settlements   in  the  provinee.     It   is  on 

the  banks  of  the  Red  River,  and  is  verv  prett.lv  situated 

Ue  found  an    arch,    or    rather    bower,    there.' made    of 

branches,  Hags,  and   colored  cloths  ;  the  platform  inside 

It  was  circular,  so  all  the  pet, pie  could  see  us.     J),  replied 

to  the  address,  and   then   we  shook    hands   with   every 

one,   and    Nellie   and    I    were   presented   with   bou(]uet's 

in  pretty  Indian  "  roggins."     A  very  good  lunch,  on  the 

teetotal    principle,  was  given   us,  and  our  healths  were 

drunk    in    water.      Two   mottoes   in  the  luncheon-room 

were,  '^  Kit  Atumiskalinanr  which  means  "  We  welcome 

you,"  in  the  C'ree  language;  the  other  was— 

Native,  or  English.  Canadian  we. 

Teuton,  or  Celt,  or  whatever  we  be, 

We  aie  all  of  ns  loyal  in  our  welcome  to  thee. 

The  young  lady  who  presented  me  with  the  bouquet 
made  me  a  long  speech  in  Cree.  trembling  violently  the 
while,  and  a  girl    in   the  school  who  read  a  poem  of  wel- 
come was  almost  speechless  with  fright.     Then    I   gave 
tlie  prizes  at  a   ladies'  school,  and  after  this  we  got  into 
our  carnage  again,  and  drove  five  miles  more  along  the 
banks  of  the   Red    River  to  the  "Little  Stone   Fort  " 
where  we  slept.     A  very  sad   thing  happened   here  last 
Dominion  Day  (July  ,st).     Owing  to   the  explosion  of 
some  gunpowder,  five   children    belonging   to   the   Fort 
were  killed,  and  our  hosts,  Mr.  and  .Mrs.  Flett.  lost  two 
so  they  are  very  depressed.      I    hope  our  visit   and   tlu' 
conse.pient   bustle  and  change  may  do  the  poor  woman 
good. 


CH.  XVIII 

s  a  wretched 

>n  and  drove 
I  passed,  and 
St.  Andrews, 
Lf.     It   is  on 
tily  situated, 
'c,    made   of 
tform  inside 
.     iK  replied 
with    every 
til   bouquets 
uneh,  on  the 
lealths  were 
K'heon-room 
\e  welcome 


to  thee. 

lie  bouquet 
iolently  the 
[)em  of  wel- 
len  I  j;ave 
we  jrot  into 
2  alonjf  the 
;one  Fort  " 
I  here  last 
<plosion  of 
I)  the  l-'ort 
t,  lost  two, 
it  and  the 
Dor  woman 


AUG.  1877 


l/rrLl-    STOXE  FORT. 


rhis  is  one  of  the    Huds..irs  I 


357 


a  fortified   place.     We   all 


!ay  stores,  and  is  (luite 


have   had   anoth 


enjoy  the   air  s 


th 


1.S  out  on  the  balcoii 


er  very   pleasant    da  v.      I    hav 


'<»  niuch.  ami 


pared.     We   ha 

are   not   such  a 


y,  while 


e   written 


ve  ()ur  own   took  and   pro\ 


our  rooms  are  beinjr  pre- 


dra 


winfr,    Nellie  dim! 


n   invasive  armv   a^ 


everything,  the  otl 


"iig   uj)  evervwhere   t 


isions,  so  we 
We  appear.     I),    is 


It 


aft 


IS  a  v 


liers  walking  about  .se 


ery  restful  evening  after 


"   lodk    into 
I'ii'K  the  sights. 


J'^rUay,    i?th.— 


\\ 


our  journev 


er  breakfast,  and  started 


e    Kot    into    our 


w 


a'-'tns    directly 


beautiful 


weather. 


on  our  way,  I       icing  in  th 


Wh 


SI 


en   we   had    gone   al 


gns  of  festivity  :    (I 


■lout   five  miles 


Indian  warriors  dancing  in  t 


iik^s  Hying,   and 


we  came   to 


sounds  of  music. 


ing  their  own  e.xtraordinarv  si 


"ic  to  the   band,  and  ut 


look 


m«:  creatures;  most  of  tl 


•""ts.     'I'heywereci 


ter- 


irioiis- 


so  covered  with    paint   that  thev  look 


i^n  legs  were  naked,  though 


had  h 


is  legs  of  a  dull  white  col 


ed  clothed.     One 


spread  over  them.      Another  had    black 
•'pper  man  was  variouslv  dressed  •  eith 
or  colored   pieces  of  .joth.   „r  shawls 
lieads  had  feathers    stuck    al)out    them 
were  elaborately  painted.     'II 


or.  with  large  black  bandj 


stri 


pe: 


The 


er  a  cottnn  shirt 


tion   I  saw  was  a  large  gre 
i"»  up  a  man's  cheek,  and  1 
chief 
iett 


ere   worn  ;   the 

and    the   faces 

'e  most   striking  decora- 

en  caterpillar,  painted  crawl- 


los 


er. 


were  the  coat  which  I  described 


'11R  itself  in  his  eye.     'Jht 


and  which  he  had  then  lent 


to  you  in  a  former 


when  he  sent  him  to  ask 


to  one  of  his  follow 


band  of  breth 


lis  to  come  and  .see  I 


ers 


and 
dian 


ren  are  pagans  (from 
are  not   very  go„(|   friends  with    the  (I 


s  we  are  on  our  way  to 
Fr(iim  th 


him.     This 

economical  motives), 

iristian  In- 


see. 


We    went    wl 


e  place  wiiere  we  met  this  sfi 
wly,  foll(,wed   by  tl 


town  of  Selkirk,  to  the  pi 


ange  assembly 
ie  crowd,   through  the 
ace  where  another  large  arch 


35« 


MV  CA A' AD/AX  JOURXAL 


CM.  xvm 


surmounted  l)y  railway  impIenuMUs,  was  erected;  for 
this  is  the  sjjot  where  the  ;,^reat  I'acillc  Railway  is  to 
cross  the  \Ki:K\  River;  then  we  ^ot  on  to  a  |)latform, 
and  had  an  address,  anti  looked  at  all  these  Indians! 
and  went  thrcnij^rh  the  regular  business  of  presenta- 
tions, etc. 

We  next  drove  on  towards  the  Indian  Reserve,  and 
at  its  entrance  were  saluted  !)y  a  lar^e  deputation,  who 
came  to  welcome  us  there,  (^ne  was  a  splendid  man 
with  a  larj>e  necklace  of  feathers,  bare  lejrs,  and  squares 
of  beaded  cloth  gracefully  coverinjr  the  rest  of  his  body. 
He  had  in  his  hand  a  standard,  like  a  ^i^autic  hand- 
screen  ;  it  was  a  lonjj  pole  with  a  stiH  fringe  of  feathers 
the  whole  way  down  it,  and  red  cluth  .settin;,'  it  off  as  a 
trimminjr. 

We   stopped  for  lunch  soon  after  this,  and  spent  a 
couple   of  hours   very   pleasantly   sittinjr   about    on   the 
Urass,  before   we  walked  on  to   the   j,nand    "  I'ow-wow  " 
place.     The  chief  is  called   i)y  the   unromantic  name  of 
"  Henry  Trince,"  and  is  a  ;rentleman  in  a  fine  red  coat, 
and  with  two  enormous   medals  on   his  breast.     He  re- 
ceived us  in  an  ar!)or  platform,  and  ^ave  I),  a  very  pretty 
a(hlress,  which  he  answered,  each  of  his  sentences  beinj; 
translated.      This  over,  the  chief  asked   to  speak,  and 
then  he  made  a  lonj,'  oration,  tellinjir  all  his   j-rievanccs. 
I),  told  him  to  write  them  down,  and   send   them   to  him 
on  paper.     We  went   into  the  school,  and   heard  a  hymn 
sunjr  and  saw  a  canoe-race.     We  walked  all   round  the 
camp,   to    visit    the    women    and    children.      'I'he    little 
babies  have  their  h'jrs  pai  ked  in  dry  moss,  and  are  then 
tied  u|)  ii,i,dit  in  a  sort  of  l)ack-board.     I).  h„l  two  ^^uns 
and   two  watches  to    present   to  chiefs,  and  on   his  own 
l)chalf  he  ^'ave  four  bullocks  for  a  feast,  so  we  left  them 
all  in  «;oo(l  spirits,  while  we  had  a    pleasant   thive  back, 
geltiiiff  to  Stone  i'uik  at  si.x  uVlock. 


CM.  xvni 

LTorted  ;  for 
.ailway  is  to 
a  platform, 
fsc  Indians, 
if   prcscnta- 

Icscrvc,  and 
itation,  who 
iliMidid  man 
and  sc|iiaros 
of  liis  body. 
;antic  liand- 
of  feathers 
it  off  as  a 


Al-G.  1S77 


CAMPIXG  OUT. 


359 


Saturday,  /.W/.— We   |,ad    a    I 


Stone   l''ort 


on;,'    drive    li 


•  >nit'    Iroin 


noon. 


and  ^r,,t   to   bilvcr  Hcijihts  in  the  aft 


cr- 


at  W 


Stin,/ay,  /<^///.— Ihe  iJishopof  R 


iipcrt's  Land  preached 


iiinipe^:.  and  came  l)ack  to  hnu  h  with  us. 
AfonJay,  .'o///.— Another  expedition  !     The  first  tl 


we  heard  thi 


;'  mornm;r  was  tlie  soiuul  of  rai 


imj; 


^•e  «<>t  lip  the  day  looked  most  uni 


n,  am 


1  wl 


KM 


we   started   about   ten,  the   f( 


Littleton  and  h 


drawn  !)y  four  horse> 


\V 


iromismj;  ;  however, 

)ur  gentlemen   riilin;,',  Mrs. 

le  ambulance 


er  maid.  Nellie  and   I   in  tl 


three  hours,   wl 


e  Kot  on  very  well  for  the  first 


Our    hor 
wheels   of  ou 


UMi    we   came  to   some    fearful 


swamps. 


ses    i)lunKa'd    throui,di     water    and    mud.     the 


r  carria^re  sinkin;(.    first  on  ( 


)iie  side  and 


then  on  the  other;  two  or  three  times  the  horses  in  the 


carts  sat  d( 


wn  in  despair,  and  once  th 


ev  s 


unk 


so  deep  m 


the  mire  that  the  whole  caravan  had  to'stop  and  help  to 


pull  them  out.     'I'he  rain  came 


was  thunder  jjrowlinjr  overhead.     .Mtojjether  it 
a  nice  day  for  campin;j:  out.     W 


destination  at  t 


on  in  torrents,  and  there 

was  rot 

e  ex|)ecteil  to  reach   our 


adventures  in  the  I 


wo.  and  to  lunch  there,  but  owinj;  t 


o  our 


oJk's  we  did  not  jfet  there  till  ( 


we  were  all  wet  and  famished.     The  I 


or  had  arrived  bef 


ive,  and 
ieiitenant-(iovern- 


tea,  which   revived   us;    then   tl 


ore,  and  he  j^Mve  us  shelter  and  some 


ic   rain   cleared   o 


made  up  a  nic  e   fire,  and   thinjjs   be^an   to   look    1 


Our  cook  had  been  in   th 


II,   we 
letter. 


had  been  over  his  knees  in  water 


e  mctst  unfortunate  cart,  and 


the  moment  ii 


most   of  the  (lav.  but 


e  arrived  he  lit  his  lire,  and  mad 


e  us  a  ihn- 


ner  of  good  soup,  mutton  chops,  and  potatoes.     It  was 
next  discovered  that  three  tents  had  been  left  behind— 


three  out  of  six  ;  however 


out  them.     1).,  Nellv,  and  I  had 


we  mana^'ed  very  well  with- 


.1  I. 


«!  another  (our  maiil-.  t 


one  tent,  .Mrs.  F.ittleton 


turns— mine  came  last  time),  and  the  th 


ake  the  expeditions  in 
rcc  yt-'utlcnitu 


36o 


Ml 


MV  CAKADIAX  JOUKXAL, 


cii.  xviri 


tl 


•t-'   third.      We  had   strctdier-bed 


and  blankets  on  th 


S    with   Iniffalo-rob 


cm,  and   dry  hay  on   ihc   W 


-re  really  very  ..n,rortab,e^,^r  :;;;,;;:  :,^ 
ear   water,  half  river,  half  swan,,,  and  as  tx  ca     I 
-'-  .  water,  and  nnlk,  we  shall  return  here  for    "the 
nijrlit  on  (Hir  wav  baek       I    r.ti,  ,-    i        .        •        '"'"^"^'^ 
>lH.seb.,,.sa«.in  I  '    '''""'   •■'"""•'  """"«'' 

■/>'«./,,,,  ^/./.-We  were  a»„kc.  rath.r  t-arlv  l,v  the 

stvu,,  In  ,  as  1  an,  vc-ry  much  afraid  „f  htr  hein,,  uvt-r- 
re  I  .,„  ,h,s  cxp.,li.i„„.  I  have. .sist  „„„„  this     T  ,e 

:  ::;:,;:"",:"""-"'^-  "■■'  ^""- '•"■' "-  -' '.^ 

settkmun      l„ur  „f  ihcsu  men  met   us  „„  h.,rsebaek 
some  way  fr„„,  their  farn.s,  a.„l  r,„ie  l,ef„re  „s  thr.Z,' 
e,r  Reserve.    \„„  km.w  that  the  Me„„„„i.es  have  ef 
nss.a   „r  c„„se,ent,„„s  reascns,  i„  the  same  ,va  ■  tha 
Mey     e  ■    the.r   native   h.n.l,  ,.„n,any,   an.l    settle, 
K"ss,a,  heeanse  they  will  n,„  liKhe,  and  these  ,w„  e„u„- 
.  -  re„„,re  that  their  snhjeets  sh,„„d  serve  in  the  army 
I  he  Menn„n,tes  are  m„st  desirahle  i,nn,i„ranls  ■  ihev  re 
am  .  e,r  he,.  „erma„  eharaeterist.es,  art  hard-w   rki,  ;" 
"  .est,  ,„l,er,  s.n.ple,  hardy  people :  they  hrin„  ,„,.„ev  in-' 

'"  "•;■  '■ "■■>■•  ""'I  «"  ««tle  in  a  w.o.lless  plaee  w  h  i, 

,"""";"  "'■"•■'^'  »■ '■    N--si,y  (in  Knssia   h     't     ^ 

hem  t„  make  a  peeuliar  fnel-cakes  „f  ma , are  miL 

w,t     straw     which  is  kept  a  whole   year  to  drv 
"Kl.'.v.  and   which  looks  exactly  like  t„rf;    wi  1,       i^ 

•hey   «e,  thro„,h   the   Ion,-   Cana.lia,,   winter   with 

are"; ,;;;     ''";•■■ """'  "■""'"»•'  ""•  '■"•"-,. .] 

are  I.ntheran,  ,„  which  for,,,  „(  religion  thev  add  the 
ynakcr,'  non-figh.ing  doctrine.    They  dre«  in  the    la 


cii.  xviri 

l)iiffal()-rol)cs 
lioor,  so  we 

nj,'  ^aoiiiui  is 
we  can  get 

'■  fi»r  aiiotlicr 

'in;,r  tlir()uj,rli 

early  by  the 
p,  c'oiivcrsa- 
I  some  (iiffi. 
:I<>.\   hour  of 
bt'injr  over- 
'1  this.     'I'he 
It   the  wiiul 
cverythinjr 
Mciinonite 
li'Tseback, 
lis  throujri, 
.*s  have  left 
e  way  that 
settled    in 
■  two  coiin- 
1  the  army. 
s;  Ihcy  re- 
il-workinjr^ 
money  in- 
ace,  which 
lias  taiijfht 
ire,  mixed 
dry   thor- 
with   this 
r   without 
man,  and 
'  add  the 
tile  plain- 


Kvr. 


1877 


MEXXOX/TE   SE  TTI.EMEXT. 


361 


est  and  least  decorative  fash 


l)irth  to  their  ;,^raves,  t 
■fs  fi, 


"»ii  ;  the  women,  from  th 


If  lip  their  heads  i 


eir 

n  colored  hand- 


1-  -■•-■■   ..v.iw.-i  III  1  uioreo  nand- 
^erduefs  fastened  under  their  chms,  an<l  wear  dark-rol- 
ored  stuU  ^^owns,  the  baby's  bein^^  made  after  the  same 
fashion  as  .ts  mother's.     The  men  shave,  and  wear  black 
stocks   round  their  thn.ats.     Partly  in  consequence  of 
this  unbecomms  costume,  all  the  ,,eoi)le,  men  and  wom- 
tMi,  are  plain.     One  hundred  and  twentv  families  arrived 
in   Canada    three    years    a^n,    and    set'tled   on   this  bare 
pra.r.e  one  autumn  .lay.      Kor  a   week    they   had    not   a 
roof  to  cover  them,  and   slept    un.ier  their  carts;  then 
they  dujr  up  the  sods,  and  with  them  made  rude  huts  in 
which  they  lived  through  one  of  our  lon«  and   severe 
w.ntcrs.      Ihis  i.s,  therefore,  their  third   vear  here-and 
now  I  will  tell  you  how  we  find  them  situated 

Ue  drove  about  five   miles  through    their    Reserve. 

■ch  IS  ei,d,teen  miles  square,  and  in  so  doinj,  passed 

rcn.,h  five  or  six  villages  of  farmhouses;  thev  are  not 

n  strcet.s,  each  house  beinjf  surrounded  bv  land      The 

verv'HuT.'""r''.  "''''    ""'">'    '^""t/ ^""f^^^    with 

ic      hay  thatch,  the  walls  wooden,   but  covered 

"■th    plaster.     Next    to    and    openin^^    into    the    livinj;- 

'•""se  IS  a  large  building  in  which   the  cattle  spend  tlu. 
winter.  ' 

Kverything    looks    very    neat;    home-made   w<,oden 

l-^;-.   'lowers    in    the    windows,   nice   gardens,   etc 

J''|'<h  family  ,s  given   ,60  acres  of  land,  and  the  wav  in 

^^-  •'>•'•  they  work  their  farms  enables  them  to  do  so  very 

advantageously.  ^ 

Supposing  there  are  twenty  families  in  a  village,  they 
P"t  an  the  land  togetlK^r.  aiul  nKirk  otit  the  chfferenl 
spots  w.ch  are  best  suited  to  particular  crops;  thus,  all 

':'r*:r"'i^:'"r^'''''''-'-^^'''-i"am.ther. 


and  so  on.     Each  man.  how 
of  each   crop,   and    has   h 


ever,  worK 


s  his  own  sha 


re 


IS   proht    to   hi 


inself.     Their 


'(i 


362 


My  CAXAD/AX  JOCRXAL. 


CM.  XVIII 


cfuirch  is  most  simi)le— pi 


and 


"')  ornament  anywhert 


pie— plain  deal   f„r 


Ills  witlifMit  |)ack> 


After  drivinj^r  tli 


a^Lfes,  and  passiii;;r  th 


rou^rh  these  prosperoiis-Iook 


fore 

of  it  at   1 

witli 


lis  on  tlic  open  pra 


rolled)  great 


corn-fields,  w 


w\<^  vil- 


t'  saw  he- 


•ist    700  people,      'rii 


TIC  an  arbor  erected  and  in  f 


'Peciniens  of  iluir  U 


c  men  stood  ( 


«:rown  from  R 

•Jh 

lice. 


II  ss 


irm  produce  liefore  the 


ront 


'II  one  side 


f  women  on  the  oth 


"an  seed,  from  Canad 


111,  corn 


lit'  l)al)ie! 


cr  side  showed  th 


III  seed.  Ila.v,  etc 


and 


arbor  were  three  girls,  with 


cliildren   were  out  t 


•ir  garden  prod- 


00. 


ht 


offer   ns 


ads,  and   trays  with   gla 


e  handkerchief 


In   tl 


s(Jme   Russian   t 


sses  in   their  hands,  read 


le 
s  on  their 


cr  our  cold  drive.     The  arl 


aft 


»itli   garlands  of   || 
with 


ea,  w 


hid 


V  to 


li   was  most   refresh 


WYJ 


)or  was  very  |)rettily  hung 


owers  and   bunches  of 


I'"PP'es,  and   there  were  tables  all 


corn    mi.xed 


tie  Cliristmas-tree 


round  it,  and  lit- 


(»erm 


:»n  lines  of  wel 


">'   wliich   hung  bouquets  with 


ni 


ost    charm 


come  wrapped  round 


some 


nil 


y  done.     Afr.    MesiH-l 


each,  thewhoh 


iigent,  who  arranged  the  whole  of  th 


pcler,  the  Me 


niionite 


with 


lis,   and    acted 


IS    interpreter.       The    ,M 


IS  immigration,  was 


most  learned  man  read,  and    Mr.  H 


ennonitej 


very  nice  address,  and  I),  replied 


espeler  translated,  a 


«litcd    them  greatly.     Th 


III  a  speech  which  d( 


anything  pleased  th 


cy  never  cheered,  but  wh 


sion  to  their 


em  they  lifted  th 


en 


eir  caps.     In  a! 


peculiar  tenets  he  said :  "  Vou  h 


to  a  land  where' you  will  fmd  th 


are  to  associat 


and  conten 


c  engageil    indeed    i 


jieople  with  who 


;ive  come 


li'iik'  with  foes  whom  it 
ergies  to  encounter.    Hut  those  f( 


n   a 


m  yon 


ffreat   struggle, 


requires  their  best 


iiman  blood 


men,  nor  will  you  be  called 
your  hands  with  h 
your  religious  feelin 
you  as  recruits  and 
tlie  brute-forces  of  1 


en- 
ow- 


k's. 


'he 


)es  are  not  vour  fell 

pon  in  the  struggle  to  stain 

-—a  task  so  abhorrent  to 

war  to    which    we  invite 

IS  a  war  w.iged  against 


comrades 


lature:  but  tho.se   fo 


rcea   wiii   wel- 


CH.  XVtH 

ivitlif.iit  backs, 

iis-Iookiiijr  vil- 
(Is,  we  saw  bv- 
-d  and  in  front 
'd  on  one  siile 
>rc  them,  corn 
seed,  flax,  etc. 
garden  prod- 
too.      In  the 
hiefs  on  their 
nds,  ready  to 
'St  refreshing 
I'rettiiy  hung 
L'orn    nii.xed 
Hi  it,  and  Jit- 
:ts  witli  some 
ch,  the  whole 
e  Mennonite 
gration,  was 
Mennonites' 
translated,  a 
fi  which  (le- 
1.  but  when 
's.     In  aliu- 
have  come 
1  whom  yf)ii 
It  strugj^rie, 
it'ir  best  en- 
■oiir  feilow- 
glo  to  stain 
)h()rrent  to 
we  invite 
fed  against 
s  will    wei- 


Al'c; 


1877 


/■//A  ■^/f:.vxo.v/r£s. 


363 


—for  we  inte.ul  ,  '""l^"^'"-      't  is  a  war  <.f  ambition 

he  ocvi         1  "'  ^''  '""^'^'■'^'  ^^^-^''^  ^'thwart 

ineoctan;  the  rollnu'-  nrairic  will  hi,.- 

e  tr"d In  one    word,   beneath   the    lla-^  whose 

lokJs    now    wave     ituiv,.    ,.  ■,,  "^    "iiosc 

^^'-'  ^^■''"^'^'''  '■"""d,  and  muttered  a  few  !-,m,.  c 
senten<t's   -ii,,)  ...  ''""^  <'ermaii 

e.temxs.  and  „c.ro  as  s,,„cl,lcssly  pohlc  as  «  n,„l.l 

liiiliU 

m^K        It  .as  very  pleasant  sitting  by  the  lire  and  see- 
■ng  the  people  enjoyn,,.  their  coffee  on  the  grass       A f  ' 
-  •>"-  and  a  half  spent  here  we  walked    o  .;.,,; ,'" 
'iuarter  of  a    mile  o,r.      Son.e  won,en  showe     [i^L^ 

--ntly  we  saw  hreworks  rising  from  the  other  .amp 

'tsp  ndej  to  by  a  distant  cheer,  and  one  line  of  "He  is 
a  jolly  good  fellow."  ''"-  '^ 

nonitts  ,s    hat   the  «:reat  |)roportion  of  those  here  -ire 

">""^  Hhat  a  «:ain  they  are  to  this  country  in  threr- 
.ears    o  have  eighteen  .sc,„are  miles  of  ^  "  "" 

t'V  such  peo|)le ! 


ot  country  settled 


364 


MY  CAXADIAX  JOIRXAL. 


h!f         i    - 


CH.  xvm 

IVednesday,  22./.~Our  camp  is  o„  ^uud  ^unmd,  and 
we  all  slept  very  ccmfortahly.  and  Inn.^er  than  we  did 
tie  first  n,«ht.      We  were  packed  np  about  ten.  and  set 
off  t„  dru-e  through  some  more  villaj,a's.     Mr.  Hespeler 
took  us  mto  one  house,  and  showed  us  the  domestic  ar- 
ran,.enu-nts.     The  only  fault  to  find  with  these  is  that 
the  stables  open  mto  the  living-rooms.     The  inhabitants 
will  gradually  leave  off  this  nasty  plan,  but  it  is  their  de- 
votion to  their  cattle  which  makes  them  wish  to  have 
them  so  near.     The  village  herd  and  the  village  school- 
master are  the  only  two  paid  laborers  in  the  Mennonite 
vmeyard  :  the  clergyman  receives  no  pay.     School  is  not 
kept  during  the  three  summer  months. 

We  reached  our  new  camping-ground    early    in    the 
day.  and  the  gentlemen  went  ouf  shooting;  thev  got  a 
'"■xed    but  not  a  good  bag-prairie  chicken,  snipe,  plo- 
ver duck,  and  a  bittern,  the  latter  quite  delicious  to  eat 
n    he  evening  we  sat  over  our  camp-fire,  and  Mr.  McKay 
to  d  us  some  very  .nteresting  stones  of  his  life.     I  must 
•ntroduce  h,m  to  you,  for  he  is  (to  use  a  very  Yankee 
expression)  the  ''  boss  "  of  our  party.     He  arranges  ever  ! 
tlnng  for  us,  provides  the  horses,  carriages,  te' ts,  bed^. 

The  Hon.  James  McKay,  M.  P.  (in  the  local  Parlia- 
mc.t),  has  been  a  mighty  hunter  in  his  day,  but  as  he 
"ow  weighs  330  lbs.,  he  leads  a  quieter  though  still  a 
very  active  life  He  has  a  pleasant  face,  and  is  y  rv 
cheery,  and  a  thorough  "  good  fellow,"  but  so  enormous  r 
IMS  curious  to  see  him  filling  up  his  buggy,  and  driving 
on  before  us,  steering  us  through  the  bogs,  and  making 
s>gns  to  our  driver  to  avoid  danger  on  the  way  His 
boy  o  eleven  rides  on  a  pony  with  him.  and  promises  to 
De  as  large.     I  never  saw  such  a  fat  boy 

Fr.f  ;■  n'^,'-'  ".  '  ''-'"^■'^'■^^d.     His  parents  had  some 
French  blood  mt  hom,  ,-,nd  he  speaks  the  three  languages, 


en.  xvm 

d  ground,  and 
r  than  we  did 
It  ten,  and  set 
Mr.  He.speler 
e  domestic  ar- 
I  these  is  that 
he  inliabitants 
t  it  is  their  de- 
wish  to  have 
•illage  school- 
he  Mennonite 
School  is  not 

early  in  the 
;  they  got  a 
:n,  snipe,  plo- 
licious  to  eat. 
d  Mr.  McKay 
life.  I  must 
very  Yankee 
'anges  every- 
,  tents,  beds, 

local  Parlia- 
y,  but  as  he 
ough  still  a 
and  is  very 
J  enormous ! 
and  driving 
and  making 
■  way.  His 
promises  to 


AUG.  1S77 

but    1   |)el 
one  thumb, 
several  other  verv 
he  and 
there 


WIXXIPEG. 


it-'ve  he  talks  Jnd 


3^5 


and  besides    th 


ian  at  home.       He  has  I 


ost 


's  gunshot  wound  he  has  had 


"arrow  escapes  of  his  life.     ( )ne  d 


an  Knjriish  gentleman  killed 
wasaba^r.     Mr.  McKav  .shot  f 


man  three;  but  what 


feat  is  that  h 


our, 
seems  to  me  th 


with  a  las.so.     Hl- 


e  once  killed 


bea 


had 


a  mother  and  tw 


seven  grizzly  bears  : 
and  the  English- 
e  most  wonderful 


r  came  towards  hi 


"<->  giin  with  him 


lasso  over  her  head,  and   t 


ni  on  her  hind  paws;   he  tl 


)  young  cubs 
md  the  great 


pulled  her  o 


he  killed  the  cubs 


ver  on  her  back 


rninghishor.se  quickly  aw 


an 


d  St 


irew  the 


'''y. 


H 


too. 


rangled  her  ;  then 


e  said  he  thought  nothing  of 


black  bear  with  a  I 


g  of  It,  as  he  had  killed 


;isso  when  he  was  fourt 


thi 


Jemmie"   (his   fat   boy)    ,s  al 


een  years  old. 


igs  off  the  ground  when  h 


ways  i)racticing  pjckin 


le  IS  on  horseback,  with 


g 


„■        .      t  ■■---..  ..V  i.T  \n\  iiorseoack    with  -» 

ew  to  future  e.xcellence  with  the  lasso.  Mr  \  cK.v 
l^nows  a  great  deal  about  the  Indian.s,  and  it  wa  ve' v 
■"terestmg  to  hear  him  talk  of  them  ^ 

Thursday,  2j./.-.\v,  u.d  about  twentv-flve  miles  to 
<ir.ve  home,  and  as  we  got  a  good  deal  shaken  we  uere 
very  t.red  at  night  and  ready  to  go  verv  t'rWu\^ 

after  reaching  Silver  HeiLrhts     Tl  '  """^ 

1,  ,      ^   ^"^er  ntignts.     i  he  vounger  La'ntlemfn 

however,  having  gone  to  Mr  Xfrk'-.v-c  ,  >>'''"'emcn, 

selves  by  trying  to  learn  the  Keel  River  jig. 


s  had  some 
■  languages, 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

MANITOliA. 

Saturday,  Au^^^ust 2s//,.-Urs.  Morris  and  her  daughters 
Umched  with  us,  and  we  had  a  visit  from  an  American 
1  rofessor   who  has  come  here  to  study  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  "hopper."     As  I  have  not  a  jjreat  deal 
of  personal  interest  to  tell  you  about  to-dav,  I  will  try 
to  mstruct  you  in  Manitoban  zoology  and  ^^Uomology 
^ou   have  of  course  heard  of  the  grasshopper  plague 
which   devastates  this   country  year  after  vear       The 
creature  is  s.m])ly  a  hideous  grasshopper,  but  he  comes 
<n   such  extraordinary  numbers  that  he  literally  clears 
all  before  him-crops  of  all  sorts,  bark  of  young  trees 
leaves,   buds,   flowers,  window-curtains,  ladies'  dresses' 
Nothnig  escapes  his  great  appetite  and  ostrich-like  pow- 
ers of  digestion.     He  flies  into  your  face,  he  climbs  up 
your  garments,  he  sits  upon  your  food,  he  ''.-ts  you  walk 
i>P«>n   h.m.  drive  over  him,  slay  him  by  thousands,  but 
st.l    he  forms  a  th.ck  covering  over  your  palings,  and 
darkens  the  air  with  his  devouring  presence.     He  has 
hut  one  merit-no,  two  :  he  does  not  bite  you,  and  (if 
you  can   make  up  your  mind  to  eat  him)  the  Professor 
declares  he  is  good  to  eat. 

The  creature  is  supposed  to  he  brought  here  by  one 
"prevailing"  wind  and  taken  away  bv  another  For 
two  years  (after  fourteen  of  annual  visitation)  the  peo- 
ple here  have  had  a  rest  from  him.  and  the  crops  are 
iiourishing. 


her  daujfhters 
an  American 
manners  and 
a  jrreat  deal 
ay,  I  will  try 
entomology. 
op])er  plague 
year.      The 
lilt  he  comes 
terally  clears 
young  trees, 
lies'  dresses, 
ich-like  pow- 
le  climbs  up 
;ts  you  walk 
ousands,  but 
palings,  and 
ce.     He  has 
you,  and  (if 
lie  Professor 

here  by  one 
other.  For 
m)  the  peo- 
le  crops  are 


AUG.  1877 
The 


/XSECT  LIFE, 


1(^7 


common  fly  is  a  great  nuisance  too.     We  call 
h.m  the  "house-  fly.  but  he  also  swarms  on  the  prairie 
He   wakes  us  m  the  morning,  assists  at  our  breakfast 
worries  us  while  we  write,  and  makes  himself  thoroughly 
objectionable,  as  a  fly  well  knows  how  to  do. 

In  speaking  of  the  mosquito  I   must  change  mv  l)ro- 
noun,  for  the  Professor  declares  that  it   is  only  the  fair 
ladies  who  bite.     She  is  a  real  plague  in  this  a.untrv,  In.t 
we  are  fortunate  enough  to  have  escaped  her  ainu,;;t  en- 
tirely.    An  Englishman  came  out  last  year  for  pleasure 
but  after  three  days'  journey  into  the  land    he   turned 
back,  finding  only  pain,    and  literally  defeated    by  the 
attacks  of  the  mosquitoes.     1  am  told  that  thev  often 
kill  animals  by  choking  them,  and  that  when  so'  killed 
a   great    ball    of   mosquitoes    will    be    taken    out    of    J 
cow's  throat.     This   may   be  too  interesting  a   fact   for 
you    to    digest:    stay-at-home    people    are    so    incredu- 
lous. 

Cows  and  horses  have  even  a  more  fearful  enemy  in 
what  IS  called  here  the  -bulldog."  but  what  we  rail  'the 
"horse-fly."     They  really  do  kill  h<,rses  by  the  irritation 
they  cause.     Mr.   McKay  told  us  that  bv  scrapng  his 
hand  along  the  back  of  his  horse  he  has'  taken  off  one 
hundred  and  seventy-three  at  once  (d(,n't  smile  !) ;  and  he 
described  to  us  the  mane  of  a  horse   standing  on  end 
with  the  crowds  of  flies  in  the  hair,  one  on  the  top  of  the 
other  all  struggling  for  blood.     These  nasty  things  come 
nuo  the  houses  too,  later  in  the  year.     I  am  very  happy 
to  add  that  the  Professor  says  that  blood  is  inju'rious  to 
all  these  creatures,  and  that  they  are  punished  when  they 
give  way  to  their  unhealthy  appetites. 

There  are  no  rats  and  no  earthworms  in  Manitoba 
but  there  are  squirrels  which  come  into  the  houses   and 
I  am  told  that  mice  are  plentiful,  and  are  particularly 
tond  of  making  a  nest  in  one's  best  gown. 


;! 


'I: 


^/y  C.  t  \ADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XIX 


of  burden,  and  one 


Oxen  are  much  used  as  bea 
i>t<i»  ik  /<*w  mules. 

Mouuuy  ^7//._The  gentlemen  went  out  shooting  for 
the  whole  day,  and  came  back  well  pleased,  though !hey 
were  unable  to  f.nd  half  the  b.rds  they  shot!  It  c' me  on 
to^pour  .n  the  evening,  and  they  lost  one  good  hou^" 

^Ve  ladies  lunched  with  the  Morrises,  and  met  Mr 
Macpherson  and  Mr.  Campbell,  who  hav;  come  all    he 
way  here  by  water  (three  weeks  in  canoes);  we  are  go 
.ng  .ner  part  of  the  same  route,  so  they  were  able  to 
g.ve  ..  ,ome  hints.     Mr.   Macpherson  d.d  not     i  e     t 
nd       ree  weeks  of  pork  and  canoe-made  bread  made 
h.m  ,11.      I  hey  fortunately  had  lime-juice  with  them 

Tuesday,  2St/,.~\\^  drove  through  rather  a  pleasant 
country,  a  wooded  prairie,  making  tur  way  tot  r        1 
nmpeg  R.ver,  and  did  twenty-nine  miles  in  the  dav 
Our  camp.ng  ground  is  on  the  banks  of  a  winding  stream 
and  we  were  ju.st  settling  down  when  we  heard  that  one 
o     he  horses  had  fallen  into  the  river.     We  went  to  look 
a     the  poor  brute,  floundering  up  to  his  neck  in  nu.d 
he  was  getting  very  much  exhausted,  and  we  were  al 

vt  th  t  T  '"  ^''  '"""^  ""^-     ^•'""^'^-  "-f-tune 

was  th  t  a  cart,  conta.n.ng  the  men's  food  and  bedding, 
bro.,   down  on  the  way,  and  did  not  arrive  till  very  late 
and  a  th.rd  that  my  maid  is  ill.     .She  has  been  so'fo    a' 


rr,   20/t.—A\e\am\ 


nks  everything  verv  horrid 


er   is    still    very   ill,   and 


ps    nasty;  she  touch 


camp-beds  too 


r  fit 


ger.s,  and  makes  a  fa 


es  everything  with  the 


e  rrally  is  ill, 
'-  i>.ie  i,  ,vell. 


ce  over  everything 


and  I  hope  she  will  like 


this 


'■■  CH.  XIX 

urden,  and  one 

)iit  shooting  for 
2d,  though  they 
ot.  It  came  on 
le  good  hour's 

,  and  met  Mr. 
2  come  all  the 
0 ;  we  are  go- 
'  were  able  to 
d  not    like   it, 
e  bread  made 
with  them, 
ler  a  pleasant 
y  towards  the 
:s  in  the  day. 
inding  stream, 
leard  that  one 
;  went  to  look 
leck  in  niud ; 
we  were  al- 
ave  him,  but 
?r  misfortune 
and  bedding, 
till  very  late; 
een  so  for  a 
e  has  a  fear- 

ery  ill,  and 
mp-beds  too 
ing  with  the 
r  everything 
will  like  this 


AUG.  1877 


Sr.  AXDKEll'S. 


369 


^^e  expected  to  go  through  a  number  of  swamps   but 
the    weather  has  been  so  dry  that  happilv  there    were 
none    to  speak  of.     We  had  n<,t  gone  nio're    than    two 
ni.les    when    a    whole    cavalcade    of   horsemen  met    us 
1  hey  wore  red  sa:shes  across  their  shoulders,  and  rode 
on  Indian  saddles,  much  embroidered  with  beads     There 
was  one  l.ttie  boy  on  an  enormous  horse,  which  nearly 
puhcd    Imn  off   when   it   attempted  to  eat,  which  it  d,d 
often.      I  he  horses  are  not  trained  much,  and  have  very 
hard    mouths.     These    riders    were    French  half-breeds, 
and    looked    very   Indian.     They  rode  beautifullv.   and 
galloped    by    us    for  over   two   miles,  firing  a/.v/-./.-^ 
every  few  mmutes.     When   we  got  near  to  St.  .Andrews 
we  found  that  the  people  had  made  an  .mpromptu  avenue 
of  trees  fully  a  mile  long,  and  at  the  end  of  .t  an  arch 
decorated    with   arms   and  welcomes.     This   settlement 
looks  very  flourishing  and  well  cultivated.     The  people 
read  a  French  address,  and   D.  replied  in  the  some   lan- 
guage.    Then  an  English   one  was  read,  and  answered 
After  this  we  went  on.  accompanied  for  some  way  bv 
our  cavaliers,  and  after  they  left  us  we  halted  and  had 
lunch. 

About  five  o'clock  we  reached  our  camping-ground 
having  driven  thirty  miles,  and  having  had  one  little  in- 
terval of  prairie-shooting  on  the  wav.  When  the  horses 
were  unharnessed  we  all  set  to  work:  the  gentlemen 
pitched  the  tents,  -..-e  picked  up  sticks,  and  made  two 
f^re-.  and  then  I  made  four  beds,  and  plucked  a  duck 
for  dinner !  This  meal  was  highly  appreciated  bv  us  all, 
and  we  sat  round  the  fire  and  listened  to  some' of  Mr. 
McKay's  stories.  The  gentlemen  were  made  verv  angry 
by  hearing  that  at  seven  in  the  morning  a  bear  was  seen 
quite  close  to  our  camp!  The  men  thought  of  telling 
them,  but  did  not,  and  it  was  so  close   thev  could  easily 


ave  got  It.     Was  not  !hat 


provoking 


•'^^rx^M.- 


370 


A/y  CAXADIAX  JOL-RXAI.. 


en.  xix 


Th 


e  prairie-fowl  shooting  is  very  odd.     The  bird 


s  re- 


e    sportsman,  and 


main    in    the  j^rass    (|uitc  ch)se  to   tli 
stare  at  him  till  he  makes  them  get   up.  and   then  .some- 
times they   flo])  down  again   before  any  one  can  shoot. 
Vesterdav,    th 


ruthlessly    shot  down    sat 


e  mother  of    the   brood  which   had    1 


)een 


look 


calling    for  her    young,  and 


ing  about  (]uite  close  to  us. 


ThursJay,  j(V//.— Traveling    on   the    Da 


A  hot  day,  and  the  road  dusty  and  e.vtreniely  rougl 


wson    route. 


\\i 


were  very  tired  by  two  o'clock,  when 


e  stopped  at  a 


sort  of  half-way   house  to  rest   and    have    lunch.     Th 
orwegian,  with   live  children— four  most 

)y,  seven  days 


hostess  wa 


a  N 


ch 


irming,  pretty  little  girls,  the  fifth,  a  bal 


'Id !     She,  poor 


woman. 


for  us,  and  to  make  Hags      Sh 


got    uj)    to  decorate    her 


e  seemed  s 


uch 


room 

person,  and  she  wept    bitterly  when  we  left.     Df 

she  was  very  weak,  and  she   I 

and  was  glad  to  see  so 


;i  nice 
course 


are  not  good,  as  her  husband    is   del 
seem  to  get  on.     They  are  just 


Pern  I 


)nia   Mountains,  where  thev  h 


ives  in  a  very  lonely  place. 

me  one  to  speak  to  ;  her  i)ros|iects 

elicate,  and  does  not 

going  to   move   to  the 


of   160  acre 
farm 


s.      Neither  h 


ive  taken    iiji  a  far 


m 


f  nor  she  knows  anything  of 


iMJJ,  and  when  they  reach   the    place  thev  will   h 


to    build    a    house. 
Fred 


W 


ave 


erica.     The  other  child 


e    named    the    Norwegian    !)abv 


yard,  with  .1    piece  of  stone   f 


ren  had  made  a  t 


rain  in  the 


and  boxes  for  carri 
for   tickets,    which 
which  everybodv.  ent 


or  an    engine,  snow-shoes 


lages,  etc.     When  I). 


saw  it    he  asked 


one  child   instantly    produced,    and 


erin 


bought. 


lu-y    immediatelv    took  th 


g  into  the  spirit  of  the  g 


ime, 


0    money   to  their 


mother,  and   we    were  able    to   please  them   with 


little  ncckl 
is  the  father 


■t's  we   had  for  the  Iiidi 


some 


:iiis.     Johann   Nord 


s  name. 


Duri 


"C  the  afternoon-half  of 


through  a  h-j,  f,j.g^  {jyj  ^_j  -j 


our  journey  we  passed 


osc  enough  to  the  actual 


CH.  XIX 

Tlie  birds  re- 
sportsman,  and 
nd  tlicn  sonic- 
onc  tan  shoot, 
hich  liad  been 
cr    young,  and 

Dawson    route. 
L'ly  rough      We 
;  stopped  at  a 
i    lunch.     The 
en — four  most 
l)y,  seven  days 
decorate    lier 
ed  such  a  nice 
t.     ()(   course 
■  lonely  i)lace. 
lier  prospects 
and  does  not 
move   to  the 
I'M    up  a  farm 
■i  anything  of 
hey  will   have 
wegian    baby 
;i  train  in  the 
',  snow-shoes 
V  it    lie  asked 
■oduced.    and 
of  the  game, 
iney   to  their 
n  with  some 
fohann  Nord 

?y  wr  passed 
to  the  actual 


AUc;.  1877 


//    ••COA'DfA'oy    KOAD. 


bla/e  to  be  very  mud 


1  annoved    by  tlu 


not  get  to  our  camping-ground  t 
some  new   e.\i)eriences,  for  th 


■^niokt 


W 


371 


e  (11(1 


'II  SIX,  and  then  we  had 
ere  was  no  water  and   no 


food  for  the  horses.     We  had  to  dig  for  the  f 
Mr.   McKay    tried    to    tak 


ormer. 


and 


bett 


e   his    horses    somewhere    for 


cr  grass,  i)ut   they  would   not   leave  tl 


they  hoped  to  find  co 


le  c.irts,  where 


ni. 


'Jhi 


scenery  at  ail. 


s  part  of  the  country  i 


s  wooded,  and  there  is 


no 


U 


e  are    in    Keewatin    now. 


council,  and  has  not  a    I.ieut 

though  .Mr.  .Morris  is  what  is  called  the  ".Ad 


't    is  governed    by    a 


enanttiove 


riior  o 


f  it 


s  own, 


/'■//,/, 


'.',  J"/>A— JJefore   luncl 


ministrator. 


miles,  and  as  tht 


1  we  did  about 


seventeen 


rest  m  the  middle  of  the  d 


i:  road  was  rough  we  were  glad  of  thi 


IV. 


Wl 


len  we  started 


wc   were   told    that    we   had   only  nine   miles   to 
tliought  we    should    baye   such    an    easy  afteri 


ag.iin, 
go,  and 


proved  a  very  hard 


•lie.     We  had   lly 


and    a    road    made    with    rough-li 
When  first  made  this  sort  of  •>-■—■ 


ernoon. 
f 


It 


e  miles  of  swamp 


cwn    trunks    of    t 


rees. 


agreeable,  but  when  time  ha 


Ring  of  the  ambulanc 
scribed  I 


perpetual  bridge  is  not  dis- 
s  Worn  furrows  in  it  the  jog- 


w, 


igon   upon  It  is  not   to  be  di 


W 


luMi   we   had  lieen   knocked   about 


coult!   bear  we  got  out  and  walked 
i>ut  almost  our  whole  journey  w 
and  as  we  had  to  go  at  a  fiiotV 
tiguing. 


as  much  as  we 
a  coujile  of  miles; 
IS  over  corduroy  road 


pace.  It  was  very  fa- 


din 


As  you  may  guess,  a  "cordur 


gnagian  imitation  of  the  material 


oy"  road   is  a   Hrob- 


tlc   boys,  and   wh 


foni  by  rough  lit- 


away  altogether,  wh 


en   an   occasional  "cor<r'  has  bn.k 


en  another  has  got  I 
as  the  horse  jnits  his  foot  on  it 


round 


"pon  end  as  the  wheel  louci 


en 

oose,  and  turns 

or  when  it  stands 


not  pleasant  to  driv 

25 


H-s  it,  the  cor(biroy  road  is 
f  many  miles  over  !    In  consecpience 


•* 


372 


A/y  C.IXAD/AN  JOCA'AAL. 


C».  XX 

of  ..iir  sl„w  pr„j;rcss.  it  was  ,,uite  dark  when  we  reached 
our  cami..ii^-gr„u.ul,  and  the  couk  did  nut  arrive  till 
half-past  seven. 

.Vr/////</,/).,  S,f(nn/,rr  ist.  'I^en  or  twelve  miles  of  roiKdi 
road  brought  us  to  the  North-West  Anule,  where  we 
fmnul  a  beautifully  decorated  steamer  on  the  Lake  of 
the  Woods. 

There  were  a  few  Indians  about:  one  who  is  alwavs 
called  "Colonel  Wolseley."  because  he  was  guide  to  Sir 
(.arnet,  on  the  Red  River  Ivxpedition. 

We  had  KH.t  up  at  si.x  in  order  to  do  o„r  steamer  vr.v- 
agebydayh^du;  but  our  horses  wandered  away  in  the 
niKht,  and  it  took  some  time  t<.  catch  them,  so  that  it 
was  one  o'clock  before  we  ha.l  done  the  twelve  miles 
and  packed  our  thing's  into  the  Ix.at.  We  had  to  part 
with  Mr.  McKay  here,  and  to  put  ourselves  into  the 
hands  of  twenty-si.x  canoe-men.  Thev  all  came  on  board 
at  the  North-West  Angle,  whic  h  is  a  morsel  of  the  United 
States  mixed  up  with  our  land. 

We  had  such  a  pleasant  afternoon  in  the  steamer 
The  Lake  of  the  W..ods,  about  whi(h  we  had  heard 
nothing,  proved  to  be  quite  lovely  ;  islands  innumerable, 
rocky  and  wooded,  a  great  variety  of  shapes  and  sizes." 
sometimes  far  away,  and  sometmies  so  dose  to  thj 
steamer  as  (piite  to  darken  it.  We  lunched  and  dined 
on  board,  and  did  not  land  until  it  was  dark,  and  the 
setting-up  of  our  camp  was  most  dimcult.  We  could 
only  get  three  tents  up.  and  I  had  to  be  one  of  four  in 
mine,  so  we  were  rather  crowded. 

I  found  that  we  were  close  to  the  house  of  one  of  our 
Ottawa  brides,  who  has  come  out  here  with  her  husband. 
She  was  a  Miss  Ashworth,  and  he  a  Mr.  Lellf)wes.  We 
went  up  to  see  her.  and  found  her  very  happy  nnd  clieer- 
ful.  She  has  one  neighbor  nine  miles  away,  and  a  second 
eighteen  niiies  off. 


CII.  xx 

hen  wc  reached 
nut   arrive  till 

'  miles  of  rouj^h 
!«;'(-',  where  we 
'n  tlie  I.ake  of 

who  is  always 
is  guide  to  Sir 

r  steamer  voy- 
d  away  in  the 
leni,  so  that  it 
'-  twelve  miles, 
\'e  had  to  part 
•Ives  into  the 
anie  on  board 
1  of  the  United 

the  steamer, 
ke   had    heard 

inniiinerai)le, 
les  and  sizes, 

close  to  the 
led  and  dined 
lark,  and  the 
L  We  could 
me  of  four  in 

of  one  of  our 
her  luisband. 
i-llowes,  We 
)y  nnd  checr- 
;ind  a  second 


SEPT.  1877 


T/IE  U'/xxz/v-o-  A'/r/-/?. 


573 


Sufi,/ay,  2,/.—\\c   had  such  a  pleasant  day  after  once 
we  had  got  into  our  canoes  and  were  well  started,      rhe 
weather  was   lovely,  and  the    River  Winnipeg  beautiful 
We  have  two  large  and  two  small  canoes.     'I'he  first  big 
one  carries   I),  and  Nellie  and  me,  and  eight  men,  ami  a 
good  deal  of    luggage;    the  second,  Colonel  and   Mrs. 
Littleton,  and  eight   men.     The  first  small  one  had  the 
two  A.  D.C.'s,  .NOwell,  and  .si.v  men;  and  the  other  small 
one  held   three   servants  and   si.v  men— that   is  to  say, 
there  ought  to  be  si.x    men   in  the  two  small  ones,  but 
f^-u  left   us,  so  our  servants  take  it  in  turns  at  the  pad- 
dles.    We  were  most  comfortable,  and   lav  back  reading 
and  looking  at  the  scenery,  and  occasionally  doing  a  lit- 
tle sleeping.      Sometimes  the  men   sang    the   Canadian 
boat-songs  which  sound  s„  delightful  on  the  water  and 
sometimes  they  cheered   themselves   up   bv   ra.  ing  the 
other  canoes.      Our  tents,  luggage,  and   provisions  are 
distributed  over  all  the  boats.      In  the  middle  of  the  div 
we  landed  to  lunch,  and  at  fn-c  we  stopped  <.n  a  piece  ..V 
ground  where  Sir  (Jariu-t  Wolseley  and   his  troops  once 
camped.     Nellie  and  1  had  a  nice  bathe,  and  returned  to 
fmd  our  camp  full  of  activity  ;  our  twentv-f<.ur  men.  and 
four  gentlemen   and   three  servants  hard  at  work  <  hop- 
P-ng  woo.l.  putting  up  tents,  mending  canoes,  cooking 
dtuners,  an.l  making  be.ls.     The  latter  is  a  most  impor- 
tant oftue.     !  he  bed-maker  gets  a  cpiantity  of  drv  grass 
and  small  branches  of  fir,  which  arc  laid  one  o'ver  the 
other  .so  as^  to  form  a  spring  mattress.     A  buffalo-robe 
goes  over  that,  and  then  blankets  „,/ ///u/um 

Ue  had  dinner  of  hot  s<M,p,  curry,  stewed  beef,  duck, 
and  prairie  chicken,  and  a  blueberry  pudding,  our  cook 
liavmg  g„t  up  early  to  pick  the  blueberries.  The  soui. 
;;l^:i/"!^:^^^^'''^-<'''--   tins,  the  game"  has 


been  shot  on  th 


done 


so  wel 


e  way,     Mtmsieur  Hcsriin. 


Wh 


our (no 


k,  ha* 


tl: 


en  we  were  driving  he  used  to  arri 


vc 


374 


AfV  CAXAD/AX  JOUKAAL. 


CH.  XIX 


m 


sometimes  lon^r  after  tis,  wlic-n  it  was  (|uite  dark,  and  in 
five  minutes"  time  he  would  be  hard  at  work,  and  our 
dmner  well  under  way.  Mr.  M,  Kay,  who  is  a  great 
traveler,  said  he  never  saw  a  man  wlio  could  produce  a 
dinner  so  expeditiously,  and  get  his  things  i)acked  up 
again  so  cjuickly.  In  addition  to  this,  he  is  always  in  a 
good  humor,  and  in  the  daytime  now  he  paddles  away 
with  a  beaming  countenance. 

Strange  to  say,  though  on  the  banks  of  a  splendid 
river,  we  have  no  good  drinking-water,  and  are  obliged 
to  suck  it  through  a  .sort  of  baby's-bottle  lilter  !  Jn  the 
matter  of  drink  we  are  badly  off ;  we  have  brought  no 
wine,  so  as  to  lessen  our  luggage;  we  have  no  nnlk  (ex- 
cept  |)reserved  milk),  and,  as  I  said  before,  good  water 
IS  hard  to  get.  Tea  is  our  principal  beverage,  but 
without  milk  it  is  not  very  nice.  We  also  have  choco- 
late (which  makes  us  thirsty). 

Moiuhiy,  ^,\/.  — rp  at  six  ;  lovely  morning  ;  tlie  gentle- 
men  bathc'l.    and  we   got   off  on  our   travels   l)y    8  ^„ 
We  had  another  delightf.il  day.     We  made  two  i)ortagesi 
andac  the  end   of  the   senmd  we  lunched;  a  waterfall.' 
which   we  escaped    by  our  portage,  was  really  a   verv' 
pretty  and    important  one;    and   after   lunch    we  went 
over  such  an  exciting   rapid  :    it   was  a  great  dip,  the 
other  part  of   the   water   being  (i-jto   smooth,  and   we 
seemed  to  slide  over  it,  and  then  to  plunge  into  a  stormy 
sea.  the  canoe  gallantly  rising  to  the  waves.     At  this 
one  there  were  great  cries  of  "  Back  water  !  "  and  cner- 
getic  signs  made  to  the  canoes  behind  us  to  avoid  a  cer- 
tain   r(nk  on  the  way.     Later  on  wo  had  another   very 
exciting  descent,  where  the  stream  carried  us  at  a  fear- 
ful pace  sharp  round  a  rock  ;  we  were  all  covered  with 
water-prcv.fs.  and  some  of  the  canoes  shipped  a  good 
deal  of  water. 

The  scenery  i»  beautiful :  the  W 


ipeg 


loo 


ks 


CH.  XIX 

te  (lark,  and  in 
work,  and  our 
who  is  a  jfreat 
)uld  product'  a 
nijs  packed  up 
is  always  in  a 
L'  paddles  away 

of  a  splendid 
nd  are  ol)li;rcd 
(liter!  In  the 
ve  broujrht  no 
■e  no  milk  (ex- 
re,  good  water 
l)everaj,^e,  but 
')  have  choeo- 

ii  ;  the  ;,'entle- 
vels    by    8..?(>. 
two  portages, 
i ;  a  waterfall, 
really  a   very 
nch    wc  went 
jreat  din,   the 
lotli,   and   we 
into  a  stormy 
vc's.     At  this 
■  I  "  and  ener- 
1  avoid  a  ccr- 
another   very 
us  at  a  fcar- 
rovered  with 
pped  a  good 

KcUloni  looks 


SF.Pi.  1877  /•///,•   ..;/7//7/.;   /)0(;  .U/SS70.V." 


375 


I-kc'anvcr.  In,t„rarlyalwaysl,kea  iovelv  lake  f„ll  .,f 
'>landx  ihcy  are  mcky  and  wooded,  and  sonietunes 
here  are  Meej,  precipu  e.  of  ro<  k.  The  foliage  .s  vaned 
(■>"l  all  p.ne),  and  the  delightful  weather  helps  to  n,,ke 
It  all  charniing. 

We  ramped  at  hve.  and  the  u.ual  husv  srenes  were 
enarted.  I  watched  the  way  the  nu-n  kneaded  the.r 
bread,  and  then  1  madeah,af;  they  use  a  Httle  baking- 
P-v>ler.  and  pour  the  water  actually  into  the  sack  of 
'""'■•''"''  *'"  ''1'  the  kneading  in  the  top  of  if  then 
they  spread   the   dough   ou,    in    a  frying-pan.   and' put  it 

"'",7  Y'""^  ''"■•  -^  '''''^'  '"'"  ^'"-^  "^  -'^-  -  the 
result,  lennnuan  soup  is  another  <,f  their  d.shes,  and 
••^•al.v.t  ,.  no,  at  all  IkhI,  an.l  it  is  verv  (excuse  the 
w.H-d)  ••hllinj,."  ,vhi.h   is  a  great  advantage. 

it  is  W(.nderful  h,,w  quickly  these  men  put  up  our 
tents,  especially  as  they  have  to  cut  down  trees  to  make 
r.K.m  f,.r  them.  I  don't  think  thev  were  half  an  h.,ur 
getting  then,  up  to-night.  lighting  all  the  fires,  and  un- 
IMcking  all  the  things.  lia.  h  crew  has  its  own  cook 
aiul  mess. 

We  stopped  at  a  small  Mission  we  saw  on  th.  wav 
tn  .get  some  milk.  It  is  called  the  "White  Do^r  yu'^'. 
Sinn."  .ind  ,,  h.iif-hreed  clergyman  lives  ther,..  His  wife 
lias  been  ill  a  year,  has  never  seen  a  do,  tor.  and  is  now 
oil  her  back  in  a  birch-bark  tent,  where  she  thinks  .he 
lias  mot-.-  air  than  in  a  house.  I  went  in  to  see  her:  she 
can  speak  Knglish  a  little,  but  did  not  seem  to  have 
riH.re  comfortable  surroundings  than  an  Indian.  \\\- 
were  sorry  we  had  no  d,„,or  will,  us  to  ':el|.  the  poor 
Hiin,g.  and  such  cases  n.ake  one  realize  the  hardship  ,,f 
living  in  these  lonely  parts. 

r/nx,An,  ^//,.-   Thv  weather  and  the  delights  of  our 


loiirncv    h 


da 


th 


vs. 


I 


e  sanie 


is  on 


tht 


ast  two 


il 


:r. 


le  only  events  were  the  view  of 


one  most  lo 


vely 


I 


m 


n 


'li'i 


'lil : 
ill' 


w 


i 


i 

Pli 


37^> 


MY   C AX  AD/AX  JOURXAL. 


rn.  XIX 


walt-rf.-ill,  .intl  snine  line  rapuls.  At  the  fall  tlic  nvcr 
\va>  ahoiil  half  a  mile  widf.  ami  the  fall  strcti  lied  liie 
whole  way  aciDss.  It  is  really  an  enoinicjus  rai)ul,  tnil 
(■\(  ept  ill  hei;;ht,  it  is  one  of  the  finest  \\aterfall>  I  have 
seen,  \\\'  porla^a'd  across,  and  ;4<it  into  our  canoes 
a,i,Min  at  the  foot  ot  it. 

There  was  one  rapid  which  I  >.  went  down  Imt  would 
not  allow  me  to  try,  as  there  was  some  danj;er  that  one 
iniL;iit  he  swept  into  .i  whirlpool  antl  upset;  but  all  llie 
canoes  i;ot  safelv  llirout;!)  it. 


KAr    I'oKlAi; 


We  have  just  campi-ii  at  a  porta,i;e  for  tlu'iii.uht.  We 
landed  at  one  side  of  an  island,  and  the  canoes  and  all 
our  ^iiods  wt're  (  arried  to  the  other  side  of  it  ;  there  \vc 
found  ourselves  (to  use  .i;e()K'';U''i'i';'l  lan)j;uaj>e,  witliout 
reallv  stiulyinjs'  the  points  of  tlie  compass)  "bounded 
on  tlie  north"  by  a  waterfall,  tlowinjj;  from  us;  on  the 
soutli  bv  a  i;reat  rapid  and  a  wood  ;  wood  on  the  east,  and 
an  island  lillin.i,^  up  tlu'  space  Iietween  tlii'  Rapid  and  the 
lall  on  the  west.  To-morrow  we  liave  to  rov,-  across 
the  little  basin,  and  iiortaH;c  to  tlie  bottom  of  tiie  I'all. 

Tliis  W'!nnii)e,i;  surjiasses  all  rivers  1  iiave  ever  seen, 
beinii  so  much  more  lieautifi.l  than  the  other  iar;;e  rivers 
and   lakes    1    liave   been    on.      We   enjoy   our    days    ini- 


CII.  XIX 

ill   thf   river 

retched   llic 

IS  rapid,  but 

rfall^  I  liavc 

our  taivoes 

11  Init  would 

j;er  that  one 

l)Ut  all   the 


leui^ht.  We 
noes  and  alt 
It  ;  tliere  we 
ia},a',  without 
s)  "hounded 
11  us  ;  on  tiie 
I  tlie  east,  and 
Lipid  and  the 
o  row  across 
.,f  the  1-ali. 
\H'  ever  seen, 
.■r  lar;;e  rivi'rs 
lur    davs    iin- 


SKPT.  1877 


KJ/'fDS. 


1:7 


menstdy,  and  are  sorry    \vc  have  only  two  more  of  this 
dcH;^rhtful  life. 

I).  IS  so  inilustrious  alx.ut  drawin;^';  he  has  made  a 
(piantity  of  pretty  sketches. 

//V,///,-.v,/,/r,  j///._l  tried  to  describe  to  you  the  situ- 
ation of  our  campinjr.jrround,  and  I  hope  I  made  it  clear 
that  we  had  just  to  cross  a  small  bay  to  the  head  of  a 
waterfall,  and  to  portage  there,  j^ettin^^  into  our  canoes 
again  at  the  l)ottom.  'Ihe  crossing  was  very  exciting, 
for  we  ajiproached  the  Fall  as  if  we  were  just  going  over 
it,  and  at  the  last  moment  we  turned  into  an  eddy,  which 
swept  us  into  a  (juiet  landing-place. 

I-rom  the  bottom,  these  great  rapids  are  really  beau- 
tiful ;  they  appear  like  one  great  wall  of  water,  stretch- 
ing the  whole  widtii  of  the  river,  and  divided  into  four 
I)y  islands  covered  with  trees. 

After  we  got  into  our  boats  we  had  a  very  short  way 
to  go  before  reaching  another  i)ortage,  and  here  the 
rajiid  went  round  two  sides  of  an  island,  and  we  got  in 
at  the  cpuet  side  (the  third),  and  came  round  to  the  front 
of  the  Fall,  wiiere  we  could  look  up  at  it.  The  weather 
continues  to  be  perfectly  lovely— a  bright  sun,  not  too 
warm,  and  everything  is  so  gay  ind  pleasant. 

The  third  portage  we  made  was  about  three  cpiarters 
of  a  mile  long,  but  we  could  not  see  the  danger  we  es- 
caped until  we  were  some  way  from  it;  then  we  looked 
back  on  a  very  fine  fall.  At  the  fourth  portage  we 
crossed  an  island  which  divided  an  immense  rapid,  and 
came  to  a  place  which  looked  worse  to  go  down  than 
anything  1  have  hitherto  seen  ;  the  two  rapids  met  here, 
and  there  was  such  a  l)uhbling  and  iK.iling  that  the  un* 
instructed  eye  could  not  see  the  way  out  of  the  diffi- 
culty.  We  apjieared  to  start  straight  for  a  great  hole, 
and  then  to  i)e  borne  away  from  it  by  a  back  current, 
and   I   was  very  glad  when   I  found  myself  safe  at  the 


I'f 


AfV  CA^ADIA.^  JOURXAL.  CH.  xix 

bottom,  and  when  we  landed  at  a  very  pretty  camping- 
ground.  -■  i     & 

Indians  have  put  up  on  a  post  the  skull  of  a  bear  to 
show  .uher  Indians  that  they  have  killed  bears  here  and 
we  have  taken  the  teeth  as  souvenirs  of  the  place 

We  came  down  another  long,  rough  rapid,  and  then 
down  some  pretty  little  ones,  and  stopped  rather  early 
to  camp,  because  the  place  was  so  beautiful  we  wished 
to  stay  at  it. 

It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  IJirch  River,  which  here 
flows  nito  the  Winnipeg;  and  the  two  are  flowing  in 
c.pi)osite  directions  round  an  island.  There  are  five  or 
MX  other  islands  in  .sight,  but  the  ground  itself  is  not 
very  good  for  camping  :  the  rock  shelves  into  the  water 
and  we  have  to  cut  places  in  the  wood  behind  for  our 
tents. 

Thursday^  6th.~\\^  have  been  going  down  quite  a 
Cham  of  ra|)ids  this  morning,  and  have  had  five  portages 
one  after  the  other.  At  the  bottom  of  each  we  looked 
up  at  what  this  country  calls  "  rapids,"  but  what  any 
other  would  dignify  by  the  name  of  waterfalls.  Some 
of  us  came  down  one  that  really  was  a  precipice;  there 
was  a  descent  of  (p.ite  four  feet,  almost  perpendicular, 
so  that  our  canoe  slanted  headforemost  down,  and  then 
rose  lightly  on  the  waves, 

The  whole  afternoon  we  had  a  fair  wind,  and  sails 
were  improvised  in  each  canoe;  with  them  we  went  very 
fast  through  the  water,  and  landed  at  five  much  nearer 
to  Fort  Alexander  than  we  had  expected  to  get.  On  one 
side  of  us  there  is  a  roaring  rapid,  and  another  one  lies 
I)efore  us,  for  to-morrow  morning.  My  tent  is  in  a  most 
picturescpie  spot :  I  am  in  an  arbor  of  trees,  and  1  look 
across  the  lovely  little  bay,  and  down  the  river— sum- 
mer lightning  enabling  me  to  see  the  view  everv  now 
and  then.     Nellie'H  tent  is  behind  mine,  and  she  rejoices 


CM.  XIX 

etty  camping- 

1  of  a  hear,  to 
ears  here,  and 
e  place. 
l)icl,  and  then 
rather  early 
ul  we  wished 

r,  which  here 
re  flowing  in 
:re  are  five  or 
itself  is  not 
ito  the  water, 
hind  for  our 

own  quite  a 
five  portages 
h  we  looked 
lit  what  any 
falls.  Some 
:ipice;  there 
.'rpendicular, 
vn,  and  then 

id,  and  sails 
e  went  very 
nuch  nearer 
!;et.  On  one 
lier  one  lies 
is  in  a  most 
,  and  1  look 
river — sum- 
r'  every  now 
she  rejoices 


.SKI'T.  1877 


J-OA-r  .i/./:x.i.v/)/:a'. 


379 


in  the  noise  of  the    I'all.  v.  h„h    .he   tl,ink>    a   .leli-htful 
lullaby. 

/v/;/</r.  ;///.--\Ve  linished  all  mir  camping  uith.mt  hav- 
ing had  a  drop  of  rain,  but  this  morning  the  sky  looked 
gloomy,  and  ue  had  our  waterproofs  readv  to' pnt  on 
We  g..t  up  at  si.v.and  had  only  a  cup  of  ch.-Vnlate  and  a 
l)iscu.t.  so  that  ue  might  get  off  (piicker  ;  f.,r  when  we 
have  a  more  elaborate  breakfast  we  have  to  wait  so  long 
while  the  dishes  are  l)eing  washed, 

The  cnsetpience  of  „ur  frugalitv  was  that  we   -ot 
over  "  the  long  portage"  by  ,S..5o  ;   and  verv  long  it  u"is 
more  than   three  (piarters  of  a  mile,  hillv  and   slippery 
ground,  and  hard  for  the  men  to  carrv  the  heavv  canoes 
over.      I'his  day  we  made  five  portages,  and  as  'the  rain 
did  come  on  a  little,  and  as  the   skv    was   cloudv    they 
seemed  more  tiresome  than  usual.     .\t  one  of  th'e  port- 
ages a  canoe  fell,  and  an   immense  hole  was  made  in  it- 
I  he  men  set  to  work  and  mended  it  tpiickiv  :  thev  got 
balsam-root,  with  which  they  sewed  the  birch-l)ark'over 
and  over,  and  then  with  rosin  thev  covered   the  stitches 
up,  and  the  canoe  was  ready  for  the  water  again 

There  was  only  one  shower  in  the  morning,' but  as 
ue  were  approaching  Fort  .Alexander  in  the  afternoon  it 
began  to  rain  pretty  hard.  The  sight  of  their  destina- 
tion set  the  men  a-singing,  and  we  had  all  sorts  of  boat- 
songs,  and  rowed  our  four  canoes  up  to  the  .piav  t,.  the 
triumphant  tune  of  "  Kn  roulant  ma  boule  " 

(lunshots  were  fired  off  from  various  cottages  on  the 
banks  as  w.  passed  them,  and  when  we  landed  we  found 
arches  i)repared  for  us  to  pass  under. 

The  hostess  at  this  fort  is   the  daughter  of   Mr   and 

Mrs    Flett,    of   the  Stone   Fort;  her   husband    is  a   Mr 

Mackenzie,  and  she  has  one  dear  little  bov.  and  a  babv  " 

\\e  had  expected  to  meet  our  .steamer  here,  bi.t'.i 

has  not  arrived,  so  Mrs.  Mackenzie  is  going  to   let   us 


liv. 


3Ro 


AfV  C.iy.lD/.lX   /OTA' X.I/.. 


(II.  XIX 


camp  in  luT  lioiisc.  As  it  is  raiiiiiij.;'.  il  is  vt-rv  |ilcasant 
t<i  be  uiultT  a  roof,  ami  \vc  enjoyed  a  (  up  of  lea  with 
"real"  nnik  very  much,  tliouj^h  certainly  we  have  not 
l)een  able  to  complain  of  our  food  on  tiiis  expedition;  it 
has  !)een  excellent,  and  it  was  for   the  first    time   vester- 


INDIAN    (JRAVK    AT    KURT    AI.KXANUKR. 

day  that  we  had  to  do  witiiout  bread,  and  take  to  sailor's 
biscuit  instead. 

S<r/t/ri/ii\\  Sf/i. — A  ^reat  disappointment  awaited  us 
this  mornin),^ — the  unaccountable  non-arrival  of  our 
steamer.  She  ()iij,dit  to  have  been  v.aitiny  for  us  days 
aj^jo,  and  we  are  shut  np  here  imtil  she  does  come. 
'I'here    is    neither    telej^raph    nor    other  comnr;p,ication 


with  the  outer  work!,  and  we  wonder  how  we  shal 
tiine." 


kill 


(11.  XIX 

ry  iilf;i>aiit 
if  t(.'a  with 
c  have  not 
pt'ditidii  ;  it 
iiiic   vfstcr- 


SEPT.   1877 


//A-  IXDIAX   GRAVE. 


381 


„'  to  sailor's 

awaited  us 
val  of  our 
for  us  (hiys 

Iocs     COIIH'. 

iirMiication 
siuill  "kill 


Wc  went  to  visit  the  house  of  an  Inciiaii  who  farms 
on  a  neighborinj,^  reserve,  am!  f<,un(l  there  the  old  Chief 
to  whom  I),  jrave  a  watch  at  St.  Peter's,  and  a  few  of  his 
friends.  The  house  is  very  well  built,  but  it  has  only 
one  room  ;  and  I  hear  that,  however  lar^^e  their  families 
may  be,  the  Indians  have  not  yet  begun  to  wish  fur  mure 
accommodation. 

I),  looked  about,  found  fault,  praised,  and  gave  good 
advice  and  a  parcel  of  tobacco.  We  wound  the  fhiefs 
watch  for  him,  showed  him  how  to  wear  it,  and  coi  versed 
with  his  brother,  who  is  a  pagan,  painted,  and  les  civil- 
ized, but  a  very  jolly  old  gentleman.  He  is  trying  to 
build  a  house,  but  finds  it  much  •  more  difficult  to  make 
than  a  wigwam  ";  and  if  the  truth  were  told,  he  would 
probably  consider  it  less  comfortable  when  finished. 
The  Chief  told  His  K.x.  that  ;>e  was  "  very  hungry  "  (they 
all  say  this),  and  I),  said,  "and  I  am  starving,  my  steamer 
has  not  come  in,  and  I  have  eaten  all  my  provisions"; 
upon  which  the  Chief  laughed  immensely,  and  was  cjuite 
satisfied. 

\\'e  visited  a  curious  grave — a  coffin   raised  far  from 
the  ground  on  four  posts. 

Thus  did  we  spend  the  day,  and  we  were  just  going 
to  sit  down  to  dinner  when  in  walked  Mr.  Cami)!)ell, 
carrying  a  mail-bag!  Of  course  we  thought  our  steamer 
had  come.  But  no  ;  he  had  started  in  her,  but  she  ran 
ashore  in  a  fog,  and  after  vainly  trying  to  pull  her  off, 
the  Captain  sent  him  on  to  tell  us  of  his  misfortune.  It 
is  indeed  a  great  disappointment  to  every  one  concerned. 
The  steamer  has  been  done  up  for  us,  and  in  her  we 
hoped  to  go  round  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  to  get  into  the 
Saskatchewan  ;  now  this  appears  to  be  impossible,  and 
we  shall  have  to  hug  the  shore  in  canoes,  and  shall  not 
be  able  to  do  the  Lake  or  the  Saskatchewan  at  all. 

Mr.  Campbell  came  in  a  tiat-bottomed  boat  with  two 


382 


Af  y  CA  i\A  DIA  X  JO  URN  A  I.. 


CH.  XIX 


men,  and  had  a  vt-ry  adventurous  journey;  one  day  he 
was  blown  fifteen  miles  out  of  his  course,  and  had  j^'reat 
difficulty  in  landin;r.  He  slept  under  his  boat  at  nij,dit, 
and  once  a  tremendous  thunderstorm  passed  over  him. 
I  believe  he  really  was  several  times  in  danger  of  being 
upset,  there  was  such  a  stronjr  wind. 

'I'here  is  just  a  chance  that,  as  the  wind  blows  in  the 
rijjht  direction,  the  Coh'illc  may  get  off  her  nnidl)ank  ; 
but  we  shall  not  know  that  yet.  We  have  had  such 
beautiful  weather  the  last  twenty-four  hours  that  we  re- 
gret the  loss  of  our  steamer  immensely,  and  I  am  sure 
the  Captain  will  be  almost  distracted.  'I'he  reporter 
who  was  to  have  joined  us  in  her  would  not  face  the 
flat-bottomed  boat ! 

Simday,  ^///._We  were  all  up  and  ready  for  break- 
fast at  seven  o'clock,  and   by  nine  we  had   said"good- 
by  "  to  the  Mackenzies,  and  had  packed  our  canoes,  and 
started  afresh  on  our  way  to  Oimla  (the  Icelandic  settle- 
ment).    We  had  made  up  our  minds  to  "  rough  it  "  in 
the  way  of  provisions,  anil  looked  forward  to  a  possible 
diet  of  pemmican.     Ugh!     And   we  were    bearing  our 
disappointment  in  the  most  Christian  manner,  and  were 
cheerfully  reading   our   papers,   and   paddling  along  in 
our  four  canoes,  when  a  cloud  of  smoke  appeared  on  the 
horizon,  and  a  cry  of  "  The  steamer !  "  rose  simultane- 
ously from  all  the  boats.     There  she  wa.s,  off  her  mud- 
bank,   and  on   her   way  to  meet  us.     We   soon  got   on 
board,  and  we  found  her  most  comfortably  fitted  up.     I 
must  confess,  when  I  first  saw  her  at  Winnipeg  in  her 
working-dress,  that,  with  every  desire  to  make  the  best 
of  everything,   my   heart    sunk    a    little   at    the  idea  of 
spending  si.\   days    in   her.     Now  she    looks  very  nice; 
she  has  been   repainted,  and  the  hold  has  been    turned 
into  a  beautiful  dining-room.     It  has  been  entirely  lined 
with  green  I)aize,  while  the  companion  ladder  is  clothed 


1  w 


CH.  XIX 

one  (lay  he 
id  had  j^rcat 
)at  at  iiij^^ht, 
1  over  him. 
cr  of  bciiij^ 

jIows  in  tlie 
nuidl)ank  ; 
L-  had  such 
tliat  we  re- 
J  I  am  sure 
le  rep(jrter 
lot  face  the 

for  break- 
laid  ''good- 
canoes,  and 
mdic  settle- 
ugh  it  "  in 
)  a  possible 
learing  our 
r,  and  were 
g  ah)ng  in 
ired  on  the 

sinuiltane- 
ff  her  niud- 
on  got  on 
tted  up.  I 
peg  in  her 
e  the  best 
lie  idea  of 
very  nice; 
;en  turned 
tirely  lined 
■  is  clothed 


SKPT.  1S77 


fOA'T  AUiXAXDER. 


383 


m  red.  and  she  has  altngcther  a  most  cheerful  and  com- 
fortable appearance.     The  gentlemen  sleep  in  this  .saloon 
On  deck  we  have  a  sitting-room,  and  out  of  it  are  two 
cabms,  with  two  berths  .n  each.     There  is  another  nice 
large  cabin  for  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Littleton. 

When  we  came  on  board  we  found  a  little  Icelandic 
n.aid-servant,  on  her  way  to  Mrs.  Mackenzie.  .She  could 
only  say  "yes"  and  "no,-  and  her  principal  lugga.^e 
consisted  of  a  tlower-pot  with  a  geranium  growing  ""in 
It.  She  went  on  to  Fort  .Ale.xander  in  our  canoes  We 
took  a  tender  leave  of  all  our  men,  who  were  greatly 
delighted  with  a  little  e.xtra  pay  I),  gave  them.  They 
were  a  most  good-natured,  friendly,  shabbv  lot  ;  and 
each  day  their  clothes  got  more  and  more  ragged,  but 
at  Fort  Ale.xander  one  or  two  new  shirts  and  cai)s  made 
their  appearance. 

I  think  our  own  clothes  are  rather  in  the  same  dis- 
reputable condition  ;  for.  what   with  dragging  one's  self 
through   the  bush,    sitting  by   camp-fi-es,   having   holes 
burned  in  ,me's  gowns,  lying  or  sitting  on  one's  hat  and 
never  having  one's  boots  cleaned,  one  is  conscious  of 
being  rather  uncivilized-looking  when  one  re-enters  so- 
ciety.    I   have  been   happy  in  the  knowledge  that  after 
this  journey  my  gown  need  never  appear  again,  and  that 
a  mir.fortune  more  or  less  is  a  matter  of  no  importance 
I   bought,  too.  at  a   Hud-son's  J?av  store,  a  man's  soft 
gray  felt   hat,  which  turns   up  or  down,  and  accommo- 
dates   Itself    to  every   ray   of    sunshine;    the  rain    may 
P<n>r  upon   ,t  with   impunity,  and   I  can   lean  back  upon 
It,  so  that  wearing  it  I  suffer  no  economical  pangs     The 
old  gown  is  gray,  and   I  have  one  new  navv-blue  ser-e 
in  which  to  encounter  natives;  and  this  is  all  the  finery 
1  could  pack  into  the  canoe. 

Nellie  also  has  a  dear  old   frock  and  hat.  and  on,- 
good  one  in  a  bo.x  for  grand  occasions;  but  she  can  not 


'1 


I; 


384 


A/y  C.tX.ID/.tX  JOUAW.II.. 


Cll.  XIX 


Ml  i 


have  anything  of  ht-rs  on  for  two  minutes  without  its 
meeting  with  some  serious  accident;  the  glory  of  her 
smart  frock  has  been  sadly  marred  during  the  two  days 
upon  which  she  has  worn  it. 

Of  course  we  have  fresh  i)rovisions  on  tlie  C'/tHI,;  so 
the  pemmican  diet  is  posti)one(l  for  a  time.  The  re- 
porter has  met  us  liere  again. 

JAW,/r,  JOt/t.~['\xii  h.ngest  day  I  have  spent  for 
some  time. 

Lake  Winnipeg  is  so  hirge  we  were  out  of  sight  of 
land,  and  the  Co/r,7/,-  is  a  terril)le  ship  for  rolling  Jn 
this  fine  weatlier  slie  rolled  all  day,  and  even  when  we 
anchored  at  night  she  went  on  swaying  from  side  to 
side. 

rursday,  /////.-We  started   again  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and   landed  at  eight   o'clock  on   the  shores  of  the 
Saskatchewan.     'Ihere  is  not   very   much   to  .see  at  this 
particular  spot :  trees  on  each  side  of  the  river,  two  large 
wooden  houses  at  the  wharf,  and  .some  groups  of  Iiulians 
sitting  about.     'I'hey  had  put  up  decorations,  and  fired 
off  their  guns  as  usual.     Mr.  McTavish,  one  of  the  Hud- 
son's May  Company,  came  to  meet  us,  and  took  us  two 
miles  across  the  portage  on  a  tramway  laid  down  since 
July,  and  the  first   railway  in  the  Northwest.     The  car 
was  most  gorgeously  lined  with  colored  blankets,  and 
when  we  got   out  of  it   we  jumped  into  spring-carts,  in 
which  we  (bd   the  unfinished  |)art  of  the  railway.     Dur- 
ing the  drive  we  saw  some  views  of  the  river,  and  went 
to  the   Hudson's   Hay  Company's  store.      We  then  in- 
spected a  new  steel  steamer,  and  lunched ;  and  I  put  in 
a  rivet  in  the  last  bit  of  the  railwav.  ,ind  was  presented 
with  the  hammer.     We  met  here  Mrs.  Ilon.pas,  wife  of 
the   Hishop  of  .Athabasca,  and  offered  her  a  passage  in 
our  steamer,  which  she  was  thankful  to  accept.    She  has 
been  traveling  a  montii  to  get    here,  and  her  journey 


.<HW«*4S«N 


CII     XIX 

without  its 
lory  of  her 
iic  t'.vo  days 

;  Coh'ilh\  so 
.'.     The    re- 

sj)ent    for 

of  sij^rlit  of 
■oil  ill};.  Jn 
n  when  we 
»m    sitie  to 

I  the  morn- 
)res  of  the 

see  at  tins 
',  two  larjre 

of  Iiulians 
,  ami  fired 
f  the  Hud- 

olv     US    two 

own  since 
i'he  car 
nivets,  and 
K-carts,  in 
■ay.     Dur- 
and  went 
■  then  in- 
id  I  ])Ut  in 
presented 
IS,  wife  of 
iassa)^e  in 
Slie  iias 
r  journey 


SEPI.  1877 


THE   SA  SKA  TCI/E  WAX. 


385 


from  an  opposite  direction  mak'es  us  feel  as  if  we  had 
not   penetrated   so  very  far   into   the  country  after  all 
Uealso  visited  Mrs.  .Math.sson.  a  half-l.reed.' wlio  LMve 
us  some  pretty  specimens  of  her  w..rk.     And  then  came 
the  event  of  the  ,iay_our  descent  of  the  (Irand  Rapids 
ot  the  Saskatchewan   in  a  *•  V„rk  "  j.oat.     The  "  York  " 
's  a  very  iar^e,  lieavy.  wooden  ix.at.  whicl,  holds  ai.out 
twenty  people;  and  the  rapids  we  went  down  are  four 
miles   lon;,r.     They  are  simply  e.xtremelv  rou;,rh  wat.r 
a'ul  wc   f.nind   them   more   sea-sicky  and    less  exciting 
than  the  Winnipt-jr  River  rapids. 

I.i  our  ahsence  one  of  our  servants  ^ot  a  ^^ood  In-ar- 
skm  fr<.m  a  man  who  killed  the  animal  last  night  •  he 
saw  another  hear  there.  I,ut  we  have  no  time  to  go  after 
't.  Ue  hshed.  hut  though  we  saw  a  man  witli  a  great 
barrowful  of  beautiful  "white  fish"  fresh  out  of  the 
water,  caught  nothing  ourselves.  Colonel  Littleton  got 
three  pike  in  the  morning.  I),  saw  an  Indian  chief,  and 
gave  him  a  gun. 

_  We  started  off  on  our  journey  h.une  ahout  five 
odock,  and  looked  forward  with  dread  to  Lake  Win- 
nipeg. 

//V,/..,v,/.;v.  ,..//,.     We  had  a   very  good  night,  and. 

t.ll  be  ter,  a  heautiful  day.  so  we  enjoyed  our  vovage 

VNc  talked  to   Mrs.  iJompas  and   heard   iur  missiom'ry 

cxpenences.     She  lives  in  a  place  where  she  never  has 

mdk  or  i)u  ter   i>read  only  three  ti.nes  a  week  (as  flour 

"•«ts^.5  a  i,ag).  and  fresh  meat  very  rarely-pork  an.i 

IH-mmican  being  her  chief  food  ail  the  vear  round.     No 

simit   IS  allowed  to  be  sold  in  the  .Northwest,  so  •' the 

p  easures  of  the  bottle  "  are  also  denied  the  inhabitants 

ol  these  distant  regions. 

in  the  middle  of  the  day  we  went  nsliore  to  see  some 
Indians.  The  Chief  was  such  a  funnv  old  man.  He 
gave  wonderful 


ii 


expression  to  his  one  remark. 


repeated 


386 


A/y  C.iXADIAX  JOUKXAt.. 


en.  XIX 


in  a  variety  of  ways  while  I),  was  sijeaking  to  him  ;  all 
he  ever  said  hcinjr  "  Ah  !  "  "  Kh  !  "  "  Ah  !  "  "  Kh  !  "  but 
one  understood  his  gratitude,  his  wonder,  his  assent,  and 
all  his  I'eelinjrs.  perfectly  well  each  time  he  emitted  the 
soiuHJ.  The  receipt  of  a  ^\\\\  evoked  a  very  well-satis- 
fied "Ah!"  but  the  mention  of  pork  and  flour  brought 
forth  an  enthusiastic  "  Kh  !  "  and  a  shout  from  his  i)eople. 
Thursday,  /jt/i.—^  \.  m.  :  Rollins;,  rolling,  doors  bang- 
injr,  ju^s  upsettinjr  all  the  morninj;;  „o  more  sleep  to  be 
had,  and  the  melancholy  news  that  it  is  (|uite  impossible 
to  land  at  (;imh>  to  jrreet  us  when  we  feebly  struggle 
down  to  breakfast. 

(Jimla  is  the  Icelandic  settlement  which  I),  must  see, 
and  the  alternative  before  us  is  either  to  roll  about  at 
anchor  until  the  wind  siiifts,  which  it  mav  do  in  a  day 
or  two,  or  to  go  all  the  way  to  the  Stone  Fort  to  coal,  and 
return  to-morrow  (always  provided  the  wind  changes). 

1).  thought  the  first  alternative  was  out  of  the  (|ues- 
tinn  for  me,  so  we  settleil  to  come  to  the  Stone  Fort— 
and  here  1  am. 

Once  safe  in  a  house,  with  the  memory  of  the  rolling 
fresh  upon  me,  I  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to  seven 
hou.s  more  to  (limla  and  seven  back  again;  so  Nellie, 
Mrs.  Littleton,  my  maid,  and  I  remain  here  for  thJ 
night,  while  I ).  and  the  gentlemen,  having  arrived  here 
at  two,  started  back  again  at  five. 

They  will  get  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  before  it  is 
dark,  anchor  there,  and,  if  they  can  land,  go  on  to 
(limla  in  the  morning. 

It  has  been  such  a  dreadful  aiternoon— pouring  rain, 
and  two  fearful  thunderstorms.  I  shall  have  to  give  you' 
a  second-hand  account  of  ( limla.  1  am  very  sorry  not 
to  have  seen  it,  but  the  iWrt7/f  is  such  a  lively  little 
steamer  in  rough  water  that  I  dreaded  fourteen  hours 
mofc  uf  hcf ! 


CM.  XIX 

to  liiin  ;  all 
"Kh!"  but 

assent,  ami 
cmitic'd  the 
y  well-satis- 
lur  l)r(iii>;lit 
1  his  people. 
Joors  baiiy- 

sleep  to  be 
'  impossible 
)ly  struggle 

).  must  see, 
ill  about  at 
-lo  in  a  day 
io  coal,  and 
ihanges). 
'f  the  (|ues- 
Diie  Fort — 

tlie  rolling 
id  to  seven 
so  Nellie, 
re  for  the 
rived  here 

lefore  it  is 
go  on   to 

iiring  rain, 
o  give  you 
sorry  not 
ively  little 
een  hours 


SEPT.  1877 


GI.\fLA. 


2^7 


i 


We  have  telegraphed  for  horses,  and  hope  to  U'ave 
this  to-morrow.  Meantime.  .Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mctt  are 
makmg  us  very  comfortable. 

I),  left  with   a   very   bad  headache;  he   was  up  and 
clown  all  night,  saving  all  <.ur  go.,,!.  fr..m  being   thing 
about  the  cabin,  so  1  was  n..t  surprised  that  he  had  one 
We  landed  Mrs.  Honipas  at  the  house  of  .Archdeacon 
Cowley,  where  she  is  going  to  spend  the  winter. 

/>/;/</,■,  /7//,.-()ur  carriages  arrived  verv  earb-  i,, 
the  morning,  and  we  were  able  to  start  befor'e  no.m  in 
the  ambulance,  or,  as  my  maid  calls  it,  the  "rund.le- 
tumble  machine." 

Wc  had.  during  the  next  six  hours,  a  real  spe.  imen 
of  Red  River  mud.  Imagine  driving  twentv-five  miles 
over  a  field  of  clay  soil  whi,h  has  just  been'  harrowed, 
and  you  may  accpiire  some  n<.tion  of  the  way  in  which 
our  wheels  were  clogged  with  mud.  and  the  hor.ses'  tails 
weighted  d,.wn  with  great  balls  of  it.  Ilappilv  it  was 
fine  overhead,  and  we  got  "  home  "  at  five. 

We  had  .six  mail-bags  to  ..pen,  and  were  busy  till 
dmner-time  reading  our  letters.  The  housemaid  cooked 
for  us,  and  we  enjoyed  the  cpiiet  evening  after  all  our 
traveling. 

S,tturif,i\\  /j-M.—Such  a  pouring  morning  !  We  arc 
so  glad  to  be  safe  at  .Silver  Heights. 

His  Kx.  got  to  Gimla  yesterday.  He  spoke  to  the 
Icelanders,  and  said  in  his  speech  :  "  The  homesteads  I 
have  visited  seem  well-built  and  commodious,  and  are 
certainly  superior  to  any  of  the  farmhouses  1  renumber 
in  Iceland  ;  while  the  gardens  and  little  clearings  win,  h 
have  begun  to  surround  them  show  that  y,>u  have 
already  tapped  an  ine.\haustible  store  of  wealth  in 
the  rich  alluvial  soil  on  which  we  stand."  He  then 
welcomed  them  to  bin  rn„ntry.  saying.  "  It  is  a  country 


;*' 


in  which  you  will  find  yourselves  fr 


eemen,  serving  no 


3«8 


^fV  CAXAD/AX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XIX 


overlord,  and  iK-in^:  no  man's  men  but  your  own  ■  each  " 
master  of  h,s  own  farm,  like  the  Tdalmen  and  I'.onders 
of  old  days  "  ;  and  concluded  with  tluse  words-  "I 
trust  you  will  continue  to  cherish  for  all  time  the  heart- 
stirrmg  literature  of  your  nation,  and  that  fr..m  jjen- 
eration  to  generation  your  little  ones  will  continue  to 
learn  in  your  ancient  Sa^as  that  industry,  ener^ry,  forti- 
tude, perseverance,  and  stubborn  endurance  which  have 
ever  b^'en  the  characteristics  of  the  noble  Icelandic 
race.' 

The  gentlemen  arrived  this  afternoon,  but  the  serv- 
ants did  not  get  through  the  mud  till  late  in  the  even- 
ing. 

Sunday,  i6ih.-<su  cold  !  W  c  are  thankful  for  a  fire 
and  shiver  at  the  thought  of  „ur  camp  to-morrow. 

Church  in  the  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon  a  visit 
from  eight  men,  three  ladies,  and  two  children -all 
Americans  from  St.  I'aul,  who  have  come  here  f(,r  a 
trip,  remaining  only  two  days,  and  ."o„,inj.  i,,  f„r  bad 
weather. 

They  brought  me  all  sorts  of  messages  from  the 
ladies  of  St.  I'aul,  who  regretted  so  much  tlu.v  had  „,.t 
seen  me  there.  They  ,Iid  m.t  know  I  should'  be  at  the 
Reception,  and  when  they  heard  1  was.  they  "felt 
badly,"  because  they  had  not  come  to  it 

Mo,ulay  lyth.-W^  .lid  not  manage  to  get  off  oui 


so 


selv 


es,  and  our  baggage,  till  after  t> 


we  started  in  the  ambulanr 


•o  o'clock  ;  but  then 


e,  and  with  all  th 


ing-horses  and  wagons,  the  only  differe 

cession  being  tl  at,  instead   of  the  portly  form  of 


McK 


:iy,  we  had  a  clerk  of  his  i 


e  usual  rid- 
lice  in  our  pro- 
Mr. 


e    reached    the 


n  our  guiding-buggy. 


driven  to  it  across  the  | 


camping-ground   at    five,    h, 


iving 


ou 


r  mattresses  did  not  arrive,  and  at  fi 


>rairie;  but  our  provisions  and 


had  absolutely  nothing  to  eut.     On  tl 


rst  we  thought  w( 


oser  inve.stjg.ation, 


L. 


CH.  XI.X 


SEPT.   1877 


A    LEATlfFK   LODGE. 


•our  f)\vn  ;  each 
en  and  JiDnck-rs 
CSC  words  :  "  I 
time  the  heart - 
Jiat  from  ^en- 
ill  continue  to 
•,  t-nergy,  forti- 
ice  wiiich  have 
ol)Ie    Icelandic 

1,  but  the  serv- 
tc  in  the  even- 

vful  for  a  fire, 
morrow, 
ternoon  a  visit 
children  —  all 
ne  here  for  a 
I'k'  i"  for  bad 

gcs    from  the 

they  had  not 

HI  1(1   be  at  the 

they  "felt  so 

'  «-et  off  our- 
)ck  ;  but  then 
the  usual  rid- 
-  in  our  pro- 
form  of  Mr. 

five,  having 
•ovisions  and 
c  thought  we 
nvcstigalion, 


3'^9 


.^3f<.und  that  the  cook  iKul  a  few  scraps  wuhhun.  and 
ot  them  he  made  us  a  capital  dinner. 

Instead  of  a  beit-tent  we  tried  a  leather  "  |o,|j;c-  "-in 
-t'uT  words,  a  rcK^ular  Indian  teut-the  chief  merit  of 
which  IS.  that  m  u  you  are  able  to  have  a  «ood  tire.     We 
watched  the  men  puttin^^  .t  up.     There  are  thirteen  lon.^ 
stuu    poles.      Jhree  are  fed  to.^ether  at  the  top.  and  are 
.fted  up,  and  spread  out  at  the  bottom  ;  ei.dit  others  are 
hen   fitted  round  these,  so  as  to  complete  the  circle  at 
the  bo  torn,  and  to  form  a  frame  for  the  leather  cover- 
'"K.      Iwo  c.rners  of  a  large  sheet  of  leather  are    at- 
acht'd  t(,  two  more  poles,  and  with  these  it  is  lifted  over 
the  skeleton  frame-work;  these  two  p.des  also  work  the 
chimney  apparatus. 

The  tent  is  quite  open  at  the  top.  but  ,he  two  flaps 
of  kaer  regulate  the  draught.  Ue  had  a  good  fire  l., 
Ko  to  bed  by.  and  to  .Iress  by  in  the  mornin-  but  ue  let 

•t  go  out  at  night.  The  provisions  arrived  late  m  Ju- 
evening. 

_  Turuiay^  rm.-.\\\^  j.„t  up  earlv.  and  werc^  breakfast- 
;.;|;  wh-  Mr.  McKay  arrived.  We  cheered  his  . Intl. 
'H.t  1  am  sorry  to  say  he  brought  the  Littletons  a  tele- 
Rram    r        p     ,,,^ 

that  they  had  better  return  home 

ur.ulh'7/n, ''"■''•  '''""''"^  ^^  '^"-- -'•'  -I'   tele. 

'M  till  t<. -morrow,  and  the  chihj  mav  be  better 

\\  I-  were  a  long  time  packing  onr  wagons  and  ( at<  h- 

.nRmir  horses;  but  at  last  we  started,  and  had  an 
c.  over   the  prairie.     I>.  had  a  headache,  caused,  he 

mks.bytheextr.neIybadwMerwehadtodri,klast 
*,ht.     It  recpiire,!  no  microscope  to  show  the  a   imals 

"t  Of  course  we  filtered  it.  but  F  don't  think  it  was 
P-ss,ble  to  make  it  wholesome.  When  we  reached  our 
i"nrheon-piace   I),  lay  down,  and  with  a  good   fire  wc 


390 


^/y  C.IX.tD/AX  JorA'X.IL. 


<ll.  XIX 


k'"t  a  little  wa 


nil. 


\n\.Uir. 


lie  sun  is  bri^rht,  but  the 


wind 


IS 


'I'lic  after 


our  canipmjr.jrrouiKl    I 


"""M  was  e(]ua:iy  cold,  and  wli 


fu  we  reached 


as  (|UK 


kly 


was  jrlad  to  j,a.t  lhe"h.d«e"u|, 
as  possible,  that    I),  nii^rht   ^..-t   to  bed.     He 


was  very  feverish,  and  had 


//  tdllCSiii 


n: 


house  so  hut  th 


f'^//t.-~l    f 


a  terrible  headachi 


outid    the    fir 


e    Ml    niv 


■ath 


IS  mnrnni^r  that  I  had  u,  let  it  burn  d 


cr 


l)ef()re   I   could   dress  at    it.      |) 


own 


start  in  the  anil)uhi 


i-ak( 


nice  with    us.      We  d 


was  better,  and  able  t( 


where   we   saw   ()uaiitities   of 


rf)ve  past  Shoal 


rrow-ducks  stand 
our  way  lay  lhrouj,di  jir 


geese  and  of  Lirj^^e 


"iJ,'  upon  pieces  of  rock   in  the  wat 


cr ; 


iftcr  a  drive  of 


uric 


oak-coppice,  and  marsh,  and 


houses  here  and  there,  tl 


seventeen   miles  we  bej-an   t 


o  see  fa 


rm- 


rinally  a   little 

which  we  looked  out  on  I.ak 


ere.  then  a  Hudson's  liav  st 


a' ion,  and 


«"tta;re,  at  whiih  we  stopped,  and   f 


Tl 


e  Manitoba. 


roni 


le    cottajre    is    Mr.   M(  K 


rooms,  in  one  of  which  on 


ly's.      It   consists   of   1 


wo 


the  other  eaten.     We  pitched  all 


1-  dinner  will  be  cooked,  and 


House. 
U 


our  tents  close  to  tl 


111 
le 


liile  waiting  for  the  w 


down  to   the   Lake,  an 
sea,  with  no  land  to   I 
wide  at  this  port.      The  si 
and  Nellie  am 


igoiis  to  arrive,  we  walked 


enormous  sheet  of  water,  like  a 
)e  seen  across  it.     It  is  fifty  miles 
lore  is  a  lieautifu!  sandv  beaili 


used  herself  with   the  shells      |) 


little   lunch   felt  well    enough   to  go  out   f 

look  after  some  ducks.     Captain  Smith  brough't'  1 


ifter 


or  an  hour  to 


i)itt 


en.,  a  plover,  and  three  ducks,  but 


loiiie  a 


anything. 


no  one  else  got 


Tftutufaw   2oth.~'\\\ 
ih 


ranoes  this  morning,  and  Nell 


e    gentlemen   went    off    in    f 


U 


'e  and   I    rem, 


e   visited   the    Hudson's    Hay  store,  wl 


was   very  civil    to  us;   sli 


(uir 
lined  alone, 
lere   Mr.  Clark 


Jus  garden,  ami  afterward 


owed   us  his  bears,   his   d( 


s  sent  me  a 


quantity  of  How- 


^-  CM.  XIX 

but  tlu'  wind  is 

when  wc  rc;uii«'(l 
tlu'  "lodjre  ••  „p 
:<■■{  to  l)cd.  He 
idaclie. 
in  Miy  leather 
ft  it  burn  down 
tcr,  and  al)lc  to 
ove  past  Shoal 

0  and  of  larj^^e 
<  in  the  water; 
and  marsh,  and 
'1  to  see  farm- 
!ay  station,  and 
'pcd,  and  from 

onsists  of  two 
cooked,  and  in 
s  close  to  the 

ive,  we  walked 
f  water,  like  a 
It  IS  fifty  miles 

1  sandy  I)each, 
s  I),  after  a 
for  an  hour  to 
Diitfht  home  a 

one  else  got 

t  (>(i  in  four 
nained  alone. 
re  Mr.  Clark 
irs,  liis  dogs, 
ntity  of  Mow- 


sept.  1877 


lAJsTE   MANITOBA. 


391 


ers   from   it.     The  sun   shone   brightly,  and  it  was  very 
Jileasant.  ^ 

The  sportsmen  got  home  about  seven  oVloek  U,s 
Ivx.  i8  head,  Fred  lO,  Captam  Smith  17,  and  Mr  M,  Kiv 
25-  '  ^ 

They  had  several  sorts  of  duck,  plover,  l),ttern 
grebe,  and  coot.  They  .saw  over  a  thousand  duck  bu^ 
they  were  diffic.dt  to  approach.  I),  savs  the  shooting 
was  very  pretty  and  curious.  Thev  paddled  to  a  sort  of 
marsh,  where  there  were  gigantic  rushes  fornimg  streets 
lanes,  and  squares  of  water.  About  these  waterwavs 
they  went,  trying  to  get  quietly  up  to  the  duck  ;  but  the 
birds  were  very  wild. 

After  dinner  Mr.  Clark   and   an    Indian   agent   came 
over  from  the   Hudson's  Hay  store,  and  sat  bv  our  fire 
Mr.  Clark  has  lived    here  nine  years.      He   has   not  one 
single  neighbor  or  companion,  and  is  unmarried. 

Mr.    McKay    described   to  us  how    i,e    shot  sixteen 

swans  here  last  April.     He  had  an  enormous  tub  made 

for  himself,  which  he  sunk  into  the  ice;  he  had  it  filled 

with   hay,  and  surrounded   with   rushes.      As  he  wciirhs 

twenty-eight  stone,  he   must   have  looked   funnv  in   his 

tub.      In  front  of  him   he   placed  a  stuffed  swan,  and 

there  he  sat,  and  shot  the  live  ones  whi.l,  came  to  look 

at  It.     He  remained  there  all  day,  got  frightfullv  chilled. 

and  was  ill  for  fifty  days  with  rheumatic  fever- the  firs 

ailment  he  ever  had. 

The  wind  began  to  rise  in  the  evening,  and  at  night 
the  no.se  m  our  tent  was  dreadful  ;  the  wind  whistled  in 
at  the  hole  .n  the  top,  and  the  chimney  flapped  about. 
I  hen  an  enormous  d<.g  crept  in,  and  alarmed  me  I 
beard  a  rustling,  and,  looking  up.  saw  a  black  creature, 
which  I  took  for  a  man;  I  spoke,  and  the  creature 
rushed  out  of  the  tent  in  such  a  rapid  manner  that  I 


knew  It  must  be  a  dog.     I  told  I).,  who  d 


36 


eclared  I  was 


.)/>'  CAX.U)/AX  JOVRXAL. 


CH.  XIX 


'''■'^am,n^:  but    .n  a  short  time  a<,ain   I  saw  this  j,reat 

annual,  ancl  a,,a,n  fn^htc-ne,!  hun  w.th  mv  voire  (Inehan 
cio;,-  arc-  very  shy.  l,ut  savage  ,f  yen  ch'.n't  su<cec-(i  in 
fnghtnun,,.  thc-m)  ;  then  I  got  up  and  barru-adc.I  the 
door  of  my  tent. 

Next  morning  a  howhng  was  heard;  so  D.  at  last 
believed  I  was  awake,  and  got  n^  too.  and  assisted  in 
mak„,g  the  flapping  oilcloth  door  a  little  more  service- 
ab  e.  Ue  had  evervthing  we  possessed  piled  upon  the 
end  of  .  to  keep  it  down.  The  no.se  in  the  tent  was 
louder  than  that  in  a  gale  of  wmd  at  sea,  and  ti,ere 
was  so  nnich  draught  we  had  to  wrap  up  our  heads  as 
It  we  were  out  of  doors. 

FnJay,  ^/./.-Mr.  AFcKay  has  a   terrible  headache, 
and  there  is  too  much  wind  for  tl 


Jng  IS  put  a  stop  to,  which 


tain  Smith  have 


walked  out  to 


tiling  in  the  marsh  close  I 


)V 


ne  canoes,  so  the  shoot- 
is  annoying.      Fred  and  Cap- 
see  if  they  can  get  any- 


TI 


10  wind  fell,  Mr.  McKay  lost  his  headache,  and 


gentlemen  went   ofT   for  the  aft 


shooting  is  called  here, 
great  deal— the  birds 


crnoon's  "hunt in; 


'I'hey  diti    not    bring    back 


the 
as 


rusl 


Iff.     A  number  of  the  birds  thev  si 


were  .so  wild  ;  twenty-six  the  total 


;o 


les. 


t  were  lost  in  the 


Sdtiadaw 


ui.—Wv  I 


inpr.  and   after   lunch 


cit   our  encampment  this  ni 


^niifh    went 


eon    Mr.  McKav.  D, 


orn- 


out 


and  Captain 


Smith  tossed  up,  and    Fred  I 


looting    again.       Fred    and    Cant, 


\\n 


U'e  (I 


'St  the  place  in   the 


canoe. 

ler  an 

is  not  even  a  shrub  near  it, 

ong  grass,  on  a  small  piece  of  hi'diish 


love  on   to  the  camping-place,  which   is  rati 
uninteresting  spot.     There 
^\\(\  we  are  in    I 

ground  surrounded  b^  swamp.  We  can  hear  the  sports- 
men  s  shots,  and  see  an  immense  number  of  ducks  es- 
caping, and  flying  over  us.  Fred  has  gone  on  foot  to 
see  what  he  can  fet. 


en.  XIX 


saw  this  ji^reat 
y  voire  (Indian 
on't   MKcccd   in 

barricaded   the 


so  D.  .-It  last 


and 


assisted  ii 


c  more  service- 
I)iicd  upon  the 
in  the  tent  was 
st-a,  and  tliere 
p  our  heads  as 

ibie  Iieadache, 
«,  so  tile  shoot- 
Fred  and  Cap- 
y  can  get  any- 

clachc,  and  the 
"  hiintin.n-,"  as 
bring  back  a 
y-six  the  total 
-Te  lost  in  the 

lit  this  niorn- 

,  and  Captain 

and    ("a[)tain 


in   tl 


ic  canoe. 


I  is  rather  an 
shrul 


)  near  it. 


•e  of  highish 

ar  the  sports- 

of  ducks  es- 

le  on  foot  to 


SEPT.  1877 


PORTAGE  LA   PRAIRIE. 


W 


it>y  came  bark,  having  ;^rcatl 


393 


I^-ff"t   nineteen   bir  Is   ;    %•  I  rT'"'   "        ''''''' ^^^^'• 
Sunday,  2jd.^\s^  ,,^j  i„ 

J7---y  to-day,  but  the  shooting  ve  ter^ vVen\  '  T'l 
«  i'ttic.  Ue  lunched  close  to  the  h'  T  "'  ''^'"'^ 
surveyor,    who    brourhf  ""''  "^  ''  ^'•^^^^VM^ 

butte;.and  w^vS  ^s  nfr'Vr"'"'^  '^^^^^-^^'- 
estabhshed  hm.sel    1  n  ,  o  '"'^'^^'"-     "^'  '^'"^^ 

camped  about  fo  o  c  d  ?  T"'  "'  ^""-'  '"'^-  ^^'^ 
of  seeing  ColoneLu  ,  '"""  ^'^  '^^  '''-^"^^ 

Littleton  has  ^  e  hon  rT\"  "^  ^^"^""''^  "^-  '^'-• 
letters  also  arru  d  In     w  "'  ^■'"'  "  ^^^'"--     «- 

cIro;f:;ng^:;^^;-;::i^^-V'alf-past    eight,    an 
Portage  La  IVairf^      T  '"      ''""'^"^   ^'^'^  ^-'"«  ^o 

bands  of  pain  ed  Indi  n  '"'  ?7  "''""  ''*"^'  '''"  -'^'--. 
ics  ••     UV     r  '  '"'' '"  '""^^  procession  of  "  bue 

d'not  ee t:;;  h""  'T  '"  '"^'--  ''.-n'  a  - 
old  ladv^r  "le  7"  "'  '"''  '"'"'^'  ^^'^  -^«'  the 
her  bread  as  cT'h,  '"""  '""'  '^^'^  ^""--  ^te  .p 
her  rich  tl^  H^';^J:Zr1  ''''''^  '''''  '^^^ 
great  interest  and  pride  1  ^  ""  ''''"''"'  '"  ^^'^- 
a  market  they  .l^^t  r?:;L I'oT:  ?;'  '  T'  '''' 
-  Railway  .neon.  .ntn^lCU:::::^^ - 

.ro::;^r;l-:r:^^:S-  -He  Indians,  and  .e 
peg.  and  on  the  uav  home  '  '  "■'^'  ^^  ^^■'""'■ 

broidered  wiiS  sold  r; ::  r' "' ''•^^'"^^- -• 

the  stripes  off  his  t  ouse  t     u  ^^'-"-t^s,  and  then 

withaLen  ,.J.I    !'':.' '."'^''^'  *'»"  "'^J  friend  of  his. 


(blank 


green  wreath  on  his  head,  .-ind 


ct,  Nero  fash 


ton),  nudged  hi 


rapped  in  a  toga 


m,  and  egged  h 


im  on 


394 


AfV  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


t.  XIX 

to  a.lci    dollars   to  his  original   prices.     The  man  had  a 
beautiful  pipe,  which  he  would  not  sell. 

Tucs^hn,  .>,-///._j!efore  startin.tr  this  mornin;,^  ,ve  re- 
ceived an  address,  and  were  introduced   to  a  .luantitv  of 
people  at  High  JUuffs;   but  we  were  on  our  wava-.un  by 
iKilf-past  nine.     We  drove  till   lunch-time  along  a  good 
road,  and  through  a  beautiful  farming-country.     Bv  the 
way,  a  farmer  told  me  yesterday  that  they  built  no  barns 
here,  because  it  would  be  impossible  to  have  them  laree 
enough  to  hold  their   grain  !     There  is  a  great  deal   of 
natural  wood,  the  country  is  flat,  and  the  soil  very  rich  • 
the  only  -  ifs  "  the  agriculturists  have  here  are   "  if  "  the 
"  hoppers  ■•  don't  return,  and  "  if  "  the  railwav  does  come 
—then  they  will  be  millionaires.  '  ' 

We  camped  at  Houses  to-,nght,  and  I  think  the  only 
interesting  feature  of  the  plac-^  was  the  water      Just  as 
Nelly  was  about  to  drink  off  a  tumblerful,  she  saw  that 
It  was  full  of  large  and  lively  animals.     Colonel  Littleton 
who  had  not  looked  into  his  before  he  drank  it,  felt  verv 
uncomfortable.      I    think    that,     throughout    our  whole 
journey,  water  has  been  our  greatest  difficulty;  though 
we  have  always  had  "water,  water  eyerywh;re,"  there 
was  generally  "not  a  drop  to  drink,"  unless  yot^r  filter 
was  at    and.     The  settlers  seem  to  get   accustomed  to 
It,  but  It  w-ould  have  made  us  very  ill,  I  am  sure 

Wednesday,  26th.-Kx.  twelve  o'clock  to-day  we  reached 
Silver  He.ght,  and  our  Journey  is  virtual!  over  We 
haxe  all  enjoyed  it  very  much,  and  are  weP  and  much 
sunburnt  after  si.,  weeks  of  almost  constant  open  ar 
Our  good  luck  u.  weather  has  been  e.xtraordinar/;  there 
was  only  one  smgle  night  that  we  were  driven  fr^m  our 
camp-fire  by  rain.  The  bad  weather  always  seemed  o 
come  the  days  that  we  had  a  roof  to  shelter  us,  and  this 
mornmg  s  dnve  was  cold  enough  to  make  us  glad  that 
our  camping  out  is  over.     Our  leather  Indc^as  -er-- 


^-  t.  XIX 

'riie  man  had  a 

mDrninj;  we  re- 
"  a  <iuantity  of 
ur  way  ajj^ain  by 
:  alonjr  a  good 
Kintry.     Jjy  the 
S  built  no  barns 
ave  tlieni  large 
L  great  deal   of 
soil   very  rich  ; 
e  are,  "if"  the 
ivay  does  come, 

think   the  only 
■ater.     Just  as 
.  she  saw  that 
onel  Littleton, 
ik  it,  felt  very 
ut    our  whole 
culty;  though 
-^ where,"  there 
iss  your  filter 
iccustonied  to 
in  sure. 
ay  we  reached 
ly  over.     We 
2II   and  much 
int    open  air. 
linary;  there 
ven  from  our 
^s  seemed  to 
r  us,  and  this 
us  glad  that 
!ge  was  very 


SEPT.  1877 


WIXXIPEG. 


393 


comfortable,  though  a  little  smoky;  but  a  stove  in  the 
hall  and  an  open  fire  in  the  drawing-room  of  Silver  Heights 
are  not  unwelcome  luxuries. 

The  evening  was  frightfully  wet— such  pouring  rain, 
as  if  to  make  us  thoroughly  appreciate  our  house. 

Mr.  Mills  and  .Mr.  Pelletier  (two  of  the  Ministers  who 
have  been  traveling  here)  came  to  see  us,  and  were  un- 
able to  look  upon  my  extreme  sunburntedncss  without 
remarking  upon  it. 

Thursday,  2;///.— Most  of  us  vent  into  town  to  pay 
bills  and  arrange  various  matters  connected  with  our 
departure.     I  called  upon  the  Morrises. 

There  are  such  swarms  of  beautiful  birds  about  the 
fields  and  roads.  In  the  distance  they  all  look  the  same 
like  small  crows;  but  near,  there  is  great  varietv! 
I  here  are  orange  breast.s,  and  crimson  breasts,  red- 
brown  heads,  two  or  three  colored  feathers  in  a 'wing 
and  all  the  rest  of  every  bird  black.  Thev  must  do  a 
great  deal  of  harm  to  the  gram,  one  would  think. 

Friday,  2Sth.-\y.  and  the  other  gentlemen  went  out 
shooting,  and  had  a  very  su<rc^>tul  afternoon.  The 
bag  was  seventeen  plove;,  four  prairie-chickens,  one 
snipe,  one  duck,  one  goose  (shot  by  Fred),  one  musk- 
rat,  and  one  skunk  !     There  is  variety  for  you  ! 

Mr.  McKay  and  Mr.  Donald  Smith  dined  with  us 
The  former  gave  NHIie  and  me  two  buffalo-robes  and 
he  has  presented  D.  with  the  most  magnificent  horns  I 
ever  saw. 

Saturday,  jp//,.— Last  day  at  Winnipeg.  We  said 
good-by  to  Silver  Heights  soon  after  breakfast,  and  drove 
through  Fort  Garry  and  across  the  Red  River  to  a  place 
where  D.  and  I  each  drove  in  a  spike  in  the  Canad.. 
Pacific  Railway,  the  first  line  in  this  part  of  the  wo-ld 
The  chief  engineer  had  gone  to  trv  and  get  the  locomo- 
live  there  in  time  for  us  to  start  it,  but  unfortunately  it 


U    I  ! 


i' 


396 


^/y  CAXAD/AX  j0Uf!XAL. 


en.  XIX 
could  not  be  nianaircd      Mr  ui.w^i,      i  /  , 

crossed  the   ruer  a^ain,  and   drove   to  the   Ci     "  u     I 
■        where    a    a'>yru,,rr    was    given    to    the    f  '     !       ' 

eral.  *"  "    "'^    <^")vernor  -  Cen- 

His  speech  at  it  was  very  jrood   infl   th. 
present  were  very  much   pleaL  wh h  n  77^ 

about  three  (urirf,.r.     f       V  ^'"^  '"'''•'^e  for 

listen  w'n '   r ::  ir'  r";'  '"-'"^  ^^^--^  •<> 

si/e         t   r  n  •      '"^  '''  ^''^  ^"'"^  '^^■-^  <'f  the  ^reat 

-cofthe])oa.nH.,and,speakin,ofthisPronnce! 

"From    its    geographical  position,  and  its  necnli-,r 

Fir- :i~:3:  ir  ES3 

iNoNa  Scotia,   her   Laurentian    lakes  and    valleys    corn 

tl  .         r  '  '^"''"  Kuropean   kingdoms,  were   but 

t  K-  ves nbules  and  ante-chambers  to  that  til    the. 

confound  the  ar.thmet.cof  the  survevor  and  theveri.icH 
';''->fthe  explorer.     It  was  hence' that,  cun,    g     er 
St  ach.evements  as  but  the  preface  and  prelude  tt 
future  exert.ons  and   expanding  destiniel,  she  to^k  a 


CU.  XIX 

(the  engineer) 
opened  in  Knjr. 
r-st  line  in  the 

t^d  the  Roman 
ter,  and  tlicre 
i(i  girls.  We 
fie  City  Hall, 
)vernor-  Gen- 

the  company 
He  spoke  for 
le  seemed  to 
at  deal  at  the 
I  of  the  great 
lis  Province, 

its  peculiar 

as  the  key- 
iiices  wliich 
•  I'acific.     It 

woods  and 
s  and  unex- 

un ex pec  ted 

he  Canadas, 

ibrador,  and 

alleys,  corn 

lore    exten- 

s,  vvere  but 

"  then   un- 

isions  alike 

he  verifica- 

iinting  her 

liide  to  lier 
ii^   f I.   _ 

■•••       -.wr,     a 


SEPT.  1877 


UP    THE   RED  RIVER. 


397 


fresh  departure,  received  the  afflatus  of  a  more  imperial 
inspiration,  and  felt  herself  no  longer  a  mere  settler 
along  the  banks  of  a  single  river,  but  the  owner  of  half 
a  continent;  and  in  the  amplitude  of  lior  possession,  in 
the  wealth  of  her  resources,  in  the  sinews  of  her  material 
might,  the  peer  of  any  power  on  the  earth." 

I>.  had  two  addresses  after  lunch,  and  about  four 
o'clock  we  got  to  the  hotel,  and  received  people  till  five 
saying  "  good-by  "  to  all  who  came.  Then  we  went 
over  to  the  Morrises',  and  had  a  cupc.f  tea;  after  which 
Nve  got  on  board  the  A/in>n:s,>t,i,  and  started  on  cnir  re- 
turn journey  amidst  much  firing  and  shouting  and  wav- 
ing  of  adieus. 

One  dear  okl  member  <.f  rarliament  (who  came  as 
Falstatf  to  our  fancy  ball)  was  (piite  overcome  by  the 
Krief  of  parting  with  us.  and  almost  fell  into  the  water 
because  he  would  coninuie  his  parting  speeches  until 
the  gangway  was  partially  removed. 

We  were  very  sorry  to  say  farewell  to  Mr.  Mc- 
Kay, whose  substantial  figure,  in  his  well-known  bug- 
gy, was  one  of  the  last  tilings  we  saw  as  we  steamed 
away. 

We  felt  very  tired  m  the  evening,  for  this  had  been  a 
hard  day. 

Su„J,iy,jof/,.-\'h,.  Afinnrsota's  screw  shakes  so  much 
that  1  lind  great  difficulty  in  writing  at  all;  but  as  we 
travel  straight  through  to  Ottawa.  I  think  it  better  to 
defy  It,  rather  thati  wait  till  I  arrive  there. 

There  is  a  cinnamon  bear  on  board;  a  tame  pig 
which  answers  to  the  namo  of  Dick,  and  a  dog  The 
bear  sometimes  hugs  the  pig,  and  the  dog  rushes  to  the 
rescue.  Some  one  tied  a  bun  to  the  pig's  tail  to-dav 
which  the  bear  perceived,  and  seized  ;  but  while  he  waJ 
leisurely  arranging  himself  to  enjoy  it,  the  pig  H^i?.fd  it 


V\ 


and  ate  it 


up. 


■  Ti  ; 


398 


AfV  CAXAD/AX 


JOVR.XAL. 


Clf.  XIX 


Monday,  October  /s/.—St 


Red  River,  we  reached  (Jratid  Forks 
arrived  at  lisher's  I.aiuiing  in  the  night. 


"ling  up   the   monotonous 
s  at  two  o'clock,  and 


No. 


Tuesday,  2d. — \\ 


2  of  the  Canada  Pacific  Rail 


e  went  ashore,  and  saw  th 


n'peg  with  a  train  of  railway-trucks,  and  it  Ts  to  be 
tlie      Lady  Dufferin." 


e  engine 
way;  it  is  going  to  Win- 
called 


We  St 


U  W/iesdav,  jd. — W 


irted  at  three  o'clock,  and  si 


to  g 


e  reached  St.  Paul. 


ept  in  the  train. 


n  and  dine  at  the  hote:,  which  mad 


and  had  time 


in  the  j(;urney.     The  Milwaukee  Rail 


us  an  additional 


free  of  e.xjjcnse,  to  C'h 

to  see  the  banks  <jf  the M 

we  had  left  the 


f  a  very  nice  break 

way  Company  gave 

us  off  on  their  line, 

icago,     \\  c  came  this  way  in  order 


car  here,  and  .sent 


Thursday,  4th. ~\\' 


river  when  we  trot 


issi.ssippi,  but  unfortunately 


noon,  went  to  see  an 

the  Palmer  M.nise,  and  left  at  iii 


«:ot  up  in  the  morning, 
arrived  at  Chicago  in  the  after- 


exhibition  g(,ing  on  there,  dined  at 


Friday,  5///.  _\\ 


ne  in  the  evening, 
e  crossed  the  .St.  Clair  at  Detroit,  and 


arrived  that  evening  at  Toronto;  the  Macd 


nu 
wh 


mber  of  other  peonl 


lonalds  and  a 


lie  we  had  our  tea 


people  met   us  there,  and  sat  with 


us 


Sa/urdav,  61). J 


>uring  the  night  we  reached 


ton.  and  sh-pi  (juietly  in  our  car  till  tl 


Kin 


gs- 


f'lrectlv  after  breakfast,  w. 
Mrs.  Hewitt.  Sir  E.  Selby  Snivtl 
and  w 


'le  morning,  when, 
were  met   by  Colonel   and 


eiit  olf  at  once  to  inspect  th 


It  is  beautifull 


young  institution,  and  I) 
visited   the   Fort,  but    I 


y   situated,  and   is  a 


and  a  guard  of  honor, 
e  new  Military  College. 


yerv  (1 


saw  all  the  drill,  etc.     Ik-  th 
ent  straight   to  the   Hewit 


"'Use.  as  tlie  wind  was  bitter,  and  I  had 


oiirishing 


en 

ts' 


cold 


on  my  journey 


<  aught  a  little 


rhe  Hewitts  gave  us  a  lunch, 
o'clock  on  our  way  to  Ottawa,  wh 


dren  well  and 


in 


great  spirits. 


and  .sent  us  off  at  t 
ere  we  found  the  chil- 


wo 


CH.  XIX 


i   rnonotonous 

0  o'clock,  and 

\v  the  engine 
going  to  Win- 
is  to  becailed 

1  the  train, 
iiul  had  time 
^ry  nice  break 
(>mpany  gave 
"H  their  litie, 

way  in  order 

infortiinately 

morning. 

in  the  after- 
cre,  dined  at 
■ening. 

Hetroit.and 

)nalds  and  a 

sat  with  us 

(^hed  Kings- 
-ning,  when, 
"olonel  and 
rd  of  honor, 
ary  College, 
flourishing 
L\  Me  then 
»e  Hewitts' 
ik'lit  a  little 

'<  off  at  two 
id  the  chil- 


, 


J 


CHAPTER  XX. 

OUR    LAST    SEASON    AT    OTTAWA    AM)    MONTRF-At.. 

Of/awa:  Sumiay,  .V>r/,/Av  .^M.__Ti,,re  was  a  bad 
shock  Of  earthquake  in  the  night.  I  am  sorry  to  say  it 
d.d  not  awaken  me;  but  several  people  in  the  house  got 
up  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  and  there  are  accounts 
ol  It  m  all  the  newspapers. 

MonJay,  r  ■  .  .,0,^  j^t/,.~\\c  went  into  town,  and  did 
a  quantity  ui  Cnrj.tmas  shopping,  and  on  our  return 
found  that  i  .e.l  Ward,  John  Petty  Ward,  and  Price  Plack- 
wood  had  arrived.  I  was  also  verv  busv  most  of  the  day 
gettmg  the  Christmas-tree  ready;  it  is  alwavs  a  long 
business.  I  have  it  in  the  middle  of  the  ball-room,  with  a 
little  red-baize  platform  round  it,  and  then  a  green  carpet 
forming  a  s(|iiare.  on  the  floor  round  that ;  on  the  platform' 
and  carpet  all  the  heavy  things  au"  put,  and  the  display 
this  year  is  gorgeous. 

Christmas  Day,  /,V77,_We  had  such  a  "  Merry  "  Christ- 
mas.     I  must  tell  you  about  it. 

In  the  morning  we  finished  the  tree,  and  then  we  went 
to  church.  'I'hc  c  hildren  were  very  an.xious  to  kill  time, 
so  after  lunch  we  skated  on  the  river  till  past  four.. •(lock! 
Then  we  had  tea,  and  at  half-past  five  I  gave  the  order 
to  light  up.  .Mr.  Dixon,  the  governesses,  all  the  Little- 
tons, and  our  guests  were  present.  The  displav  of  pres- 
cnts  was  grand,  Vict.»ria  was  hoarse  with  screaming 
over  hers,  and  every  one  was  pleased.    Archie  (who  is  at 


li 


Sf^-iatmm'Kr.. 


400 


MY  C.  XADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XX 


home  from  Eton  for  tlic  holidays)  was  deliglUed,  and  in 
a  great  stale  of  excitement  all  day.  We  were  twenty- 
one  at  fi  uier,  and  had  some  dehghtful  music  in  the 
evening. 

New  Years  Day,  iSjS.—\\.  five  I  began  to  dress  my 
chicks  for  their  play  ;  but  before  that  I  went  down  to 
the  servants*  hall,  wliere  all  the  children  of  the  place 
were  having  their  tea;  the  servants  had  decorated  it 
beautifully. 

Then  I  pr  iceeded  to  the  luittiiig  of  finishing  touches 
to  the  actors.  The  piece,  "  Fifine.  the  I'isher  Maid," 
went  off  admiral)ly,  and  every  one  was  delighted.  The 
fleneral  ami  his  son,  Mr.  Dixon  and  Mr.  Higginson  dined 
with  us  afterwards 

Wediiesiiay,  January  -?,/.  — Skating  on  our  Rink  for 
the  first  time  this  winter. 

T/itirsaay,  jd.—Wa  went  into  Ottawa,  and  skated  on 
the  Rink  tiiere.  Some  gentlemen  had  gallantly  provided 
a  band,  and  we  danced  the  lancers  and  other  figures,  and 
enjoyed  \l  much.  W'e  are  still  driving  on  wheels;  but 
the  Ottawa  is  at  last  frozen  over. 

This  is  the  day  of  the  children's  party.  I  had  tea  for 
grown-up  people  in  the  recess  off  the  corridor,  and  for 
the  children  in  the  dining-room.  The  guests  were  all 
quite  delighted  with  the  play,  and  as  it  lasted  from  five 
till  seven,  were  hungry  enough  to  enjoy  their  tea.  After- 
wards they  had  a  great  romp  in  the  ball-room. 

A/i>fi,/ay,  7///.~-ln  the  morning  we  went  and  skated  in 
town,  and  although  it  was  extremely  cold,  we  danced 
our  lancers  and  other  figures,  and  enjoyeil  ourselves 
very  much.  At  lunch  the  gentlemen  were  full  of  tobog- 
Kaning,  although  the  slide  was  not  quite  ready.  There 
was  a  good  deal  of  fun  and  chaff  ibout  it.  and  they  soon 
went  out,  and  at  once  decided  to  go  down  four  on  one 
toboggan.     There  was  so  much  louse  snow  that  the  per- 


CH.  XX 


iglitecl,  and  in 
were  twenty- 
piusic  in  the 


n  to  dress  my 
ent  down  to 
of  the  place 
decorated   it 

■hing  touches 
isher  Maid," 
ij;hted.  The 
jgiiison  dined 

ur    Rink    for 

id  skated  on 

itly  provided 

r  fipfiires,  and 

wheels;  but 

I  had  tea  for 
idor,  and  for 
jsts  were  all 
;ed  from  five 
tea.  After- 
m. 

nd  skated  in 
,  we  danced 
d  ourselves 
j11  of  tohojr- 
ady.  There 
>d  they  soon 
four  on  one 
that  the  per* 


FEB.  1S78 


OTT.lll'A. 


401 


son  steering  the  toboggan  was  blinded,  and  they  came 
again>t  a  tree,  and  J.  1'.  Ward  was  seriously  hurt.  Fred 
rushed  up  to  the  house  for  brandy  and  assistance,  and  in 
a  short  time  they  carried  him  up.  The  doctor  gc»t  here 
in  half  an  hour,  and  found  his  leg  broken  and  his  side 
much  bruised,  lie  suffered  greaily.  U  is  so  unfortu- 
nate; he  was  enjoying  everything  ^.o  much,  and  now  his 
whole  winter  is  spoilt. 

Of  the  other  three.  Trice  was  stunned  and  bruised, 
Fred  knocked  and  bruised,  and  Ired  Ward  tiie  least 
hurt. 

Monday,  *'<W/.— .\rchie  and  Terence  left  us  on  their 
way  to  school  in  Knghind.  Mr.  Higginson  went  with 
them  to  New  \'ork.  We  all  miss  them  so  much,  and 
spent  a  miserable  day.  In  the  evening  we  got  letters 
from  them  written  in  the  train. 

TliutsJa\\  jnt. — Katie  and  1  went  into  town  am!  had 
a  delightful  skate.  Mr.  Haycock  hail  had  a  jiole  put  up 
in  the  Rink,  from  which  depended  a  number  of  ribbons. 
The  daniers  '^tood  roiuid  it,  and  each  one  held  a  ribbon 
in  her  hand;  then  we  went  round  ;>nd  round  to  music, 
as  in  the  last  figure  of  the  lancers,  the  ribbons  being 
lifted  over  and  under,  so  th.it  gradually  they  got  plai  cd 
round  the  pole.  Then  we  stopped,  turned  round,  and 
going  in  the  opposite  direction  unplaitei!  them  again. 

A  great  number  of  skaters  had  collected,  and  we  had 
a  very  amusing  morning-party. 

F»iiiii\\  February  .W/.—The  day  of  the  opening  of 
Parliament.  If  was  very  fme  weather,  but  we  had  to  go 
in  carriages,  not  in  sleighs.  The  Senate  Chaml)er  was 
full,  and  looked  very  handsome:  the  ladies  well  gnt-iip, 
the  judges  very  splendid,  etc.  Having  dressed  in  our 
finery  so  early,  we  were  sotnewhat  tired  on  our  return, 
but  after  tea  we  h.-id  to  i\v^%%  aga'n  for  dinne^'-  and  the 
Drawing-room,     A  thousand  people   passed— a  steady 


im 


402 


My  CAXADIA.W  JOURXAI.. 


CH.  XX 


Stream  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter-so  nianv  courtesies 
were  exhausting. 

Monda:,  //M.-We  left  Ottawa,  a  jjreat  party,  to  stay 
at  Montreal  as  guests  of  the  Citv.  The  only  two  left 
behind  were  Cis,*  who  is  ill,  and  Mr.  J.  P.  Ward,  who  was 
to  get  up  for  the  first  time  to-day.  Mr.  Bierstadt  and 
Mr.  Hayes  go  with  us.  The  latter  is  the  son  of  the 
President  of  the  United  States. 

We  reached  Montreal  at  six,  and  met  with  a  splendid 
reception.  The  i)lace  was  crowded,  and  there  was  much 
cheering,  a  lovely  bouquet  for  me,  an  address  to  I)  and 
a  drive  through  the  crowd  with  four  hor-cs  to  the  Wind- 
sor Hotel,  the  bells  of  the  town  ringing  out  a  welcome. 
We  arc  by  way  of  opening  this  new  hotel— the  Wind- 
sor. It  is  a  very  fine  one,  and  the  Reception  Committee 
were  awaiting  us  in  the  gorgeous  drawing-rooms-  in 
reply  to  their  words  of  introduction,  I),  told  them  that 
the  humble  rooms  at  Government  House  would  not  be 
able  to  contain  him  on  his  return. 

Our  dinner  was  very  good,  but  a  long  time  being  al- 
lowed for  digestion  between  each  course,  we  retired  be- 
fore the  pudding,  and  found  Owen  waiting  to  take  the 
gentlemen  on  to  a  ball. 

Tucuhn\  i2th.-~\).,  I,  and  a  certain  proportion  of  our 
party,  lunched  with  Mr.  McKay,  a  dear  old  gentleman 
who  has  spent  his  hard-earned  wealth  in  building  a  great 
deaf-and-dumb  institution,  which  he  to-day  presents  to 
the  City  through  the  C.overnor  (leneral. 

After  lunch  we  drove  to  the  Institution,  our  sleigh 
being  escorted  by  a  troop  of  cavalry.  The  building  was 
ornamented  with  flags,  and  was  full  of  people.  There 
were  prayers  first,  then  addresses,  and  an  inspection  of 
the  rooms. 


•  My  Kister-in-Uw  (Mn.  Rowan  HamUton). 


J 


CH.  XX 

any  courtesies 

party,  to  stay 
only  two  left 

'arc!,  who  was 
Bierstadt  and 

le  son  of   the 

ith  a  splendid 
ere  was  much 
L'ss  to  I).,  and 
■<  to  the  Wind- 
It  a  welcome. 
;1— the  Wind- 
)n  Committee 
ij(-ro()ms;  in 
Id  them  that 
vould  not  be 

me  being  al- 

e  retired  be- 

;  to  take  the 

)rtion  of  our 
d  gentleman 
Iding  a  great 
'  presents  to 

1,  our  sleigh 
l)uilding  was 
iple.  There 
ispection  of 


FSB.  1878 


MONTREAL. 


403 


Afterwards  we  went  to  the  Villa  Maria  Convent, 
where  a  very  striking  scene  was  presented  to  us.  Turn- 
ing in  from  the  cold  and  the  daylight  (it  was  a  snow- 
stormy  day),  we  found  ourselves  in  a  brilliantly-lighted 
room,  full  of  young  ladies,  saw  a  gorgeous  display  of 
flowers,  and  heard  sounds  of  music — "  (iod  save  the 
Queen  "  played  upon  harjjs  and  pianos,  and  sung  by  nu- 
merous voices.  All  the  girls  wore  black  dresses  for  the 
Pope's  death  (Pius  IX),  but  they  had  white  lace  bibs  and 
cuffs,  broad  sashes  of  colored  ribbon  over  the  shoulder, 
and  in  their  hands  long  sprays  of  artificial  flowers.  The 
hall  is  a  very  large  one,  and  all  along  the  walls  were 
rows  of  girls;  at  the  hxmX  of  the  room  a  rising  bank  of 
the  pupils,  and  in  the  center  three  platforms:  on  one  the 
pianos,  on  the  second  five  harps,  and  on  the  third,  1). 
and  I. 

We  had  a  good  deal  of  music  and  six  addresses- 
two  in  Fr.-nch  and  two  in  Fnglish,  and  two  from  little 
girls,  who  presented  bouquets. 

When  we  got  home  we  had  to  dress  for  dinner  and 
a  ball.  The  latter  was  given  for  us  in  a  very  fine  dining- 
room  in  this  hotel.  There  were  2.000  people  at  it,  and 
it  was  in  every  way  a  success.  We  entered  the  room  in 
a  procession,  and  D.  danced  everything,  while  I  "did" 
a  few  squares,  and  was  introduced  to  numbers  of  ladies. 
Everything  went  merrily  till  4.30  a.  m.,  when  we  retired 
to  bed.  Katie*  enjoyed  this,  her  first  ball,  very  much, 
and  danced  everything. 

Wednesday,  ijth.—W'c  went  to  M'Gill  (\)llege,  and  at 
the  gates  the  students  met  us  and  dragged  us  up  to  the 
door.  Happily,  no  one  was  hurt,  though  these  volun- 
teer horses  were  constantly  falling,  being  dragged  by 
the  rope,  and  half  driven  over. 


404 


Afy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL 


jiiij 


CH.  XX 

1  was  taken  up  to  the  Hall,  where  I  waited  the  arrival 
o  the  new  LI..  1,.,  f.r  I),  was  down  in  the  library  hnnjr 
clo  hed  ,n  cap  and  gcwn.  The  students  soon  lilled  the 
hall  completely,  so  that  U  was  unpossible  for  His  Ex  to 
get  through  it,  and  he  had  to  be  brought  bv  a  back  stair 
and  appeared  through  a  trap-door  on  the  platforn.,  where 
the  learned  sat. 

The  address  and    reply   were  in    (]reek,  and  I    was 
listennig  in   a   vacant  manner,   when    I   saw  the  Greek 
scholars    smiling    at    me.   and    1    found    that   the  word 
Countess    had    been   introduced  into   the  harangue       I 
came  in  for  a  share  of  glory  also  when  the  students  pre- 
sented me  with  a  very  handsome   silver  bouquet-holller 
made  on  purpose  for  me,   with  Canadian  and  English' 
symbols    the  arms   of  the  College,   and  an    inscription 
engraved  upon  it.     After  a  speech  from  the  president, 
tl  e   new  graduate  signed   the  register,  was  handed  his 
diploma,  and  was  called  upon  for  an  address 

I  suppose  a  learned  and  serious  speech  was  expected  ; 
but  T).  surprised  his  audience  by  a  few  light  and  airy 
sentences,  and  I  don't  think  I  ever  heaixi  him  speak 
more  ef  ect.vely.  He  had  not  thought  of  anvthing'par- 
t.cular  to  say,  and  did  not  wish  to  enter  into  a  serious 
speech  about  nothing;  and.  as  it  turned  out,  his  in" 
promptu  jokes  were  much  better.      I  had   one  or  two 

the' titatre''  ""  "'^  '''"''"'  ""^  "^'''  ^'"""  ''^  ''''''  ^° 

The  house  was  crammed,  and  presented  a  most  brill- 

an    spectacle.     The  piece  was,  in  its  way,  unicpie,  for 

^  ^^as  made   the   excuse   for  a  grand  military  display 

Th  re  were  at  least  one  hundred  and  sixty  artillerymen 

on    he^t'"'"     ,'  "'"'"  "'"^'^"^^^  i" "rod,  exhibited 
n    Is  age  as  about  to  embark  for  India.    The  steamer 
th  Its  funnel  was  ,n  the  background,  the  bands  plny.d 
the  regiments  march.  ,  on  board;  five  horses  at  a  time 


J 


CH.  XX 

ted  the  arrival 
;  lil)rary  being 
ioon  filled  tlie 
for  His  Ex.  to 
y  a  back  stair, 
atforin,  where 

s  and  I  was 
w  the  Greek 
lat  the  word 
harangue.  I 
students  pre- 
iiqiiet-holder, 
and  English 
II  inscription 
lie  president, 
^  handed  his 
s. 

as  expected ; 
:ht  and  airy 
i  him  sjieak 
nything  par- 
ito  a  serious 
>iit,  his  im- 
one  or  two 
■  we  went  to 

1  most  briil- 
tiniquc,  for 
ary  display, 
irtillerymen 
^1,  e.xhibitcd 
"he  steamer 
nds  played, 
s  at  a  time 


FE3. 1878 


MOXTREAL, 


405 


came  on,  one  ridden,  the  others  dragging  the  gun-car- 
nage.  All  was  done  in  regular  military  fashion,  and  it 
made  a  splendid  .scene.  This  was  got  up  for  us  by  the 
\olunteers,and  it  was  most  successful.  We  did  not 
leave  the  theatre  till  midnight,  and  then  were  dragged 
by  the  snow-shoers  of  Montreal  to  the  hotel.  Our  two- 
legged  steeds  wore  a  very  picturesque  costume,  and  were 
very  lively  horses  and  most  cheery  companions.  "To 
bed,  to  bed,  said  Sleepy  Head." 

Thursday,  j^i/t.-W^  bad  to   leave  early   to  drive  a 
long  way  out  to  the   Sacred   iieart  Convent.     Jt  is  one 
of  the  most  exclusive  of  the  nunneries.     When  we  got 
there  we  were  received  by  the  ladies,  many  of  them  very 
charming  women.     The  I.ady  Superi<,r  is  an  Italian,  and 
very  clever  and  plea.sant.     They  gave  us  a  cup  of  hot 
coffee,  and   then  took   us  into  the  room  where  the  chil- 
dren   were  assembled.     It  is  a  long,  narrow   room   the 
walls  covered  with  white  and  gold.     At  the  far  end  of 
the  room  was  a  stage  with  rustic  arbors  on  it  and  quan- 
tities of   flowers,  and  on  it  was  performed  an   original 
musical  operetta,  in  whi(  h  all  the  flowers  took  part   and 
which    ended    in    the  '•  Rose  "    carrying   a    magnificent 
basket  of   flowers   to   his    Ex..    each  of   her  attendants 
holding  a  ribbon  attached  to  it. 

When  this  was  all  over  we  were  shown  the  house, 
and  the  fine  chapel  where  the  girls,  with  white  veils 
thrown  over  their  heads,  marched  two  and  two  up  the 
aisle,  stopping  for  a  second  at  the  altar,  and  then  on  to 
their  places,  where  they  knelt,  filling  all  the  center  part 
of  the  church,  the  colors  of  the  painted  windows  lighting 
lip  their  white  figures,  and  coloring  them  with  a  rainbow 
liRht,  which  looked  very  beautiful.  The  organ  played, 
and  there  was  some  very  good  singing,  the  last  thing 
bemg  a  sort  of  grace,  for  after  leaving  the  chapel  we 
went  straight  to  lunch.     There  was  a  large  party,  and 


/I 


4o6 


A/y  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XX 


the  nuns  did  the  honors.     They  helped  to  wait  upon  us, 
and  at  tlie  same  time  talked  to  us  so  pleasantly. 

Driving  home,  we  went  up  the  mountain — that  is  to 
i^ay,  through  Mount  Royal  I'ark.  It  is  only  just  made. 
The  road  winds  up  to  a  great  height,  and  the  views  from 
it  are  lovely.  It  will  be  a  very  beautiful  drive  to  have 
so  near  a  city. 

This  evening  there  was  the  banquet,  and  I  am  sure 
no  Governor  of  any  kind    jver  received  a  more  magnifi- 
cent ovation  than  this  at   the  end  of  his  term  of  office. 
The  dinner  was  in  the  great  ball-room.     There  was  one 
long  table  down  the  side  of  the  room,  and  ten   others 
across,  holding  in  all  three  hundred   and  fifty  people. 
The  first  thing  of   which  I    can    tell   you   from   personal 
experience   was  my  own  entrance.     I   went  in  with  my 
sisters  and  a    few  other    ladies    to    hear    the    speeches. 
When    I  came  in,  every  one  stood  up,  most  of  them  on 
their  chairs,  and  cheered  me  for  so  long  that,  after  ac- 
knowledging their  greeting  repeatedly,  I  sat  down  be- 
fore silence  was  restored.     Sir  Francis  Hincks  was  the 
chairman,  and  of  course  the  Queen's  health  came  first, 
and  was  enthusiastically  received.     As  a  special  compli- 
ment, D.  ne.\t  proposed  the  health  of  the   President  of 
the  United  States  (Mr.  Hayes),  his  son  being  present. 

The  toast  of  the  evening  was  the  signal  for  most 
tremendous  cheering— the  gentlemen  stood  on  their 
chairs,  and  waved  handkerchiefs  ;  and  when  D.  spoke, 
almost  every  sentence  was  followed  by  the  greatest  ap- 
plause, and  all  the  amusing  part  by  roars  of  laughter. 
Nothing  could  have  gone  off  better  or  more  brilliantly 
than  this  banquet  did,  and  I  wish  I  had  lime  to  give 
you  a  better  account  of  it. 

Friday,  i^th.—W^  had  to  be  at  the  Curling  Rink  at 
10.30  to  play  a  great  match— the  Viceregal  Club  against 
the  Three  Rivers— lor  the  Caledonian  medal.    The  game 


I.  CH.  XX 

0  wait  upon  us, 
isantly. 

tain — that  is  to 

[)iily  just  made. 

the  views  from 

drive  to  have 

and  I  am  sure 

1  more  magnifi- 
term  of  office. 
There  was  one 
md  ten  others 
d  fifty  people, 
from  personal 
ent  in  with  my 

the  speeches, 
jst  of  them  on 
that,  after  ac- 

sat  down  be- 
lincks  was  the 
1th  came  first, 
special  compli- 
e  President  of 
;ing  present, 
gnal  for  most 
:ood  on  their 
hen  D.  spoke, 
e  greatest  ap- 
•s  of  laughter. 
Dre  brilliantly 

time  to  give 

rling  Rink  at 
1  Club  against 
al.    The  game 


FEB.  1878 


OTTAiVA. 


407 

was  an  e.xceedingly  close  one,  but  alas  !  we  lost  by  one 
po.nt.  The  Rmk  was  beautifully  decorated,  eren  the 
.ce  being  covered  with  designs;  and  our  side  plaved  very 
well,  though  it  was  beaten.  ' 

I    skated  for  an    hour,  and  hurried  home  to  lunch 
and  to    dress  for  a    reception  we  had  at  three      'Ihat 
over,  1  had  the  Chief  Justice  to  tea,  and  then  got   ready 
for  a  dinner.     In  the  evening  we  opened  an  exhibition 
of  pictures  of  the  Art  .Vssociation  of   Montreal,  and  D 
announced  that  Mr.  Jiierstadt  was  going  to  present  the 
Society  with  a  picture.     The  hall  of  the  hotel,  in  which 
the  exhibition    was    held,   is   an   immense   ,,lace  with   a 
marble  lloor,  and   looked  very  splendid,  filled  as  it   was 
with    gayly-dressed    company.       .Some  of   the  princloal 
people  came  to  our  room  afterwards. 

Saturday,  /^M._Our  week  of  ovation  is  over,  ana 
this  morning  we  started  for  home.  Gwen  and  her  dear 
little  baby  came  to  breakfast,  and  at  ten  we  were  off, 
hrst  of  all  to  visit  an  iiuiia-rubber  manufactory  and  a 
cotton  manufactory,  and  then  to  the  station,  where  there 
was  an  address. 

On  the  way  to  Ottawa,  by  a  new  line  of  railway  D 
had  at  least  one  address  at  every  station,  sometimes 
three-and  I  generally  got  a  lovely  bouquet  We  were 
very  kind!y,  and  indeed  affectionately,  received  every- 
where,  and  the  whole  country  seemed  to  turn  out  to 
greet  us.  A  number  of  gentlemen  came  part  of  the  way 
home  with  us.  Lady  Sykes  and  her  brother  are  staying 
here.  ^     * 

I  thought  it  best  to  finish  the  happy  part  of  my 
Journal  first;  but  there  has  been  a  drawback  to  my 
pleasure  in  the  week.  While  D.  was  dining  on  1  r.daj- 
and  just  before  I  went  in  to  hear  the  speeches,  I  received 
a  telegram  to  say  that  Basii  had  scarlet  fever.  He  is 
going  on  extremely  well,  but  of  course  I  shall  be  very 
27  ' 


m  ! 


408 


A/y  CAXADIAN  JOU/iXAL. 


CH.  XX 


anxious  until  I  know  whether  this  horrid  disease  spreads. 
'I'hc  other  children  are  separated,  but  they  were  with 
hini  when  he  first  fell  ill.  His  room  is  in  the  center  of 
the  house,  and  the  iscdation  is  not  as  perfect  as  I  could 
wi>h.  Here  we  are,  with  Cis  in  bed,  Mr.  Ward  laid  up 
with  a  broken  leg,  sea  let  fever  in  the  house,  and  visitors 
on  the  top  of  all  this  who  "  are  not  in  the  least  afraid." 
Katie  remained  at  Montreal  with  Clwen  . 

Ikit  for  these  domestic  misfortunes  our  week  at 
Montreal  would  have  been  an  uncpialified  pleasure.  We 
found  everywhere  so  much  personal  affection  and  kind- 
ness, and  were  in  every  way  so  magnificently  received, 
that  nothing  could  have  been  more  delightful  tlian  it 
was. 

Monday,  March  4th. — Mr.  Harvey  *  dined  with  us,  and 
we  had  music  in  the  evening.  Russell  and  he  played  the 
violin,  and  Mr.  J.  P.  Ward  sang  the  "  Lost  Chord  "  to  us. 
He  has  a  most  beautiful  tenor  voice.  He  has  only  just 
recovered  from  the  tobogganing  accident. 

Sunday,  lotli. — Mr.  Ward  fell  ill  to-day,  but  we  were 
not  at  all  alarmed  about  him  till  the  evening,  when  the 
doctor  told  us  his  illness  was  most  serious,  and  that  there 
was  no  hope.  He  was  told  so,  too,  and  immediately 
settled  all  his  affairs  and  wrote  a  letter.  I  went  to 
see  him  in  the  evening.  He  was  perfectly  calm  and 
happy. 

Tuesday,  12th. — Mr.  Ward  passed  away  this  afternoon, 
having  lingered  all  Monday,  exhibiting  always  the  most 
wonderful  patience,  resignation,  and  thoughtfulness  for 
others.  I  was  with  him  when  he  died  ;  Fred  Ward  sel- 
dom left  him.  The  anxiety  was  terrible,  for  on  Monday 
afternoon  we  were  given  a  ray  of  hope,  soon  to  be  de- 
stroyed again. 


*  Of  Ickwellbury. 


L.  CH.  XX 

disease  spreads, 
they  were  witli 
in  the  center  of 
rfect  as  I  cuuld 
.  Ward  laid  up 
.ise,  and  visitors 
e  least  afraid." 

i  our  week  at 
jileasure.  We 
[tion  and  kind- 
ently  received, 
ightful  tiian  it 

led  with  us,  and 
d  he  played  the 
:  Chord  "  to  us. 
e  has  only  just 

y,  but  we  were 
n.ing,  when  the 
and  that  there 
d  immediately 
it.  I  went  to 
:ctly  calm  and 

this  afternoon, 
Iways  the  most 
ightfulness  for 
""red  Ward  sel- 
'or  on  Monday 
soon  to  be  de- 


AHRIL   1878 


OTTA  IVA. 


409 


T/iurufay,  14th. — He  was  buried  early  in  the  morning; 
none  went  to  the  funeral  but  those  who  knew  him,  and 
had  been  with  him  here.  He  was  a  very  great  favorite 
with  us  all,  and  this  has  been  a  great  sorrow  to  us. 

Tuesday,  April  2d. — We  put  off  our  farewell  gayeties 
as  long  as  we  could,  but  to-day  we  resume  our  social 
duties.  I  spent  the  day  nursing  my  voice,  driving  out, 
and  looking  over  my  parts;  at  six  we  dined,  and  our 
plays  began  at  a  (juarter  to  eight. 

"Sweethearts"  came  first,  th;ii  ''I^cw  Men  and  Old 
Acres  " ;  and  at  the  end  an  epi)  -gue — .1  larewell  L).  had 
written  for  me  to  speak.  No  o  le  knew  anything  about 
it,  not  even  my  fellow-actors,  so  rhat  it  v  ..s  a  great  sur- 
prise. The  worst  of  it  was,  that  it  aUe  the  audience  so 
melancholy  that  the  evening  ended  tearfully. 

Thursday,  .////.— Gwen,  Russell,  the  Baby,  and  Miss 
Abbott  arrived.  Muriel  is  very  pretty,  and  a  dear  little 
thing  in  every  way. 

Friday,  j//;.— Our  last  play  here.  We  had  an  enor- 
mous audience,  and  both  "  Sweethearts "  and  "  New 
Men  "  and  the  epilogue  were  greatly  appreciated.  They 
certainly  went  off  well,  and  every  one  was  delighted  ;  but 
all  were  sad  to  think  that  we  were  having  our  last  party 
here,  and  I  know  I  feel  miserable  about  it. 

Monday,  c?///.— Fred  Ward  left  for  England— a  signal 
of  our  approaching  departure,  for  we  shall  have  left  this 
when  he  returns  to  Canada.  I  hate  these  symptom?  -  f 
our  waning  existence  here,  I  have  enjoyed  it  all  so  much. 
His  departure  makes  also  the  first  break  in  what  has  been 
a  very  happy  fainily  party. 

Saturday,  ijth. — In  the  morning  we  drove  into  Ot- 
tawa to  see  an  enormous  map  of  Canada,  prepared  for 
the  Paris  Exhibition.  We  also  looked  at  models  of  the 
Welland  Canal, 

Hearing  that  the  House  had  been  sitting  all  night, 


u 


iJiiii 


410 


A/y  CAXADIAX  JOUKXAL. 


CH.  XX 


and  was  likely  to  sit  all  day,  we  determined  to  come  in 
again  in  the  afternoon  to  hear  what  was  going  on. 

The  Opposition  were  talking  against  time,  to  pre- 
vent a  division  being  taken  about  some  Quebec  affairs 
(the  Governor  having  dismissed  his  Ministers)  until  Mon- 
day, as  the  political  meetings  among  the  French  are 
generally  after  Mass  on  Sunday,  and  they  did  not  wish 
to  have  the  defeat  of  their  motion  announced  to  the 
congregations. 

Last  night  there  were  singing  and  cock-crowing  and 
all   sorts  of  nois(;.s,  and  when   Mr.  IMumb  was  siieaking 
another  member  got  up  and  said  he  was  interrupting  the 
music.      When    we   went— Gwen   and   I,   Mrs.   Littleton, 
and  the  Colonel— a  Member  was  speaking,  merely  to  fdl 
up  the  time.     He  read  out  of  a  book,  and  gave  us  the 
title  in  full  several  times,  and  said  it  belonged  to  "his 
hon.  friend  the  Member  for  Niagara";  and  then,  when 
noise  was  made,  he  said  he  feared  hon.  members  had  not 
heard,  and  so  he  would  repeat  what  he  had  been  saying 
or  reading.     Singing  began— "  Auld  Lang  Syne,"  "  En 
roulant  ma  bonle  "—cock-crowing,  and  all  sorts  of  noises 
and  fun,  while  the  entertainment— as  far  as  I  heard  it- 
ended  with  the  ^L'lrs(■llaisc,  beautifully  sung  by  a  musical 
M.  P.     When   I    got   up  to  go.  what  do  you  think  hap- 
pened ?— the  whole  House,  both  sides,  stood  up  and  sang 
"God  save  the  Queen,"  and  then  cheered.     Of  course  I 
got  out  as  quickly  as  I  could.     We  were  told  afterwards 
that  we  had  been  as  "sugar"  to  the  House;  that  they 
were  just  getting  very  cross  when  wt  came  in,  and  that 
our  presence  put   them   in  a  good   humor— very  good 
humor,  as  you  may  perceive.     They  were  expecting  to 
sit  all  night,  but  at  si.\  Mr.  Mackenzie  consented  to  ad- 
journ, on  condition   that  the  division  should  be  taken 
early  on  Monday. 

We  had  a  Parliamentary  dinner  that  night,  so  when 


CH.  XX 

led  to  come  in 
oing  on. 
time,  to  pre- 
Qiiebec  affairs 
Ts)  until  Mon- 
e  French  are 
y  did  not  wish 
junced  to  the 

:-crowinj;  and 
was  speaking 
:erriipting  the 
[rs.  Littleton, 
merely  to  fdl 
i  gave  us  the 
nged  to  "  his 
k1  then,  when 
ibers  had  not 
1  been  saying 

Syne,"  "  En 
orts  of  noises 
i  I  heard  it — 
■  by  a  musical 
•u  think  hap- 
I  up  and  sang 

Of  course  I 
d  afterwards 
e;  that  they 

in,  and  that 
— very  good 
expecting  to 
ented  to  ad- 
Id  be  taken 

iht,  so  when 


APRIL  1878 


FA  RE  WELL   ADDRESSES. 


4" 


I 


be  able  t 


was  in  the  House  I  instituted  in(]uiri 


o   com 


me. 


Thirt 


es  as  to  who  would 
e.     On   my  return  a  telegram  followed 


y  will    not   be  able   to  dine 


Imner  moved  into  the  small  d 


so  I   had  tl 


le 


from  fort 


y  to  sixteen.    Soon  after  another 


iiiing-room,  and  cut  down 


mej 


-iessage  came 

to  say  the  House  had  adjourned,  which  was  agitating- 
but  only  thirteen  guests  arrived,  so  our  table  was  al' 
right.  We  had  a  pleasant  little  dinner— Mr  Macphe  - 
son,  Mr.  Campbell,  Mr.  Ikinston,  Mr.  Odell,  and  the  old 
Mr.  Glasier.  who  went  awav  from  our  theatricals  ••  be- 
cause he  did  not  come  all  the  way  down  here  to  see  a 
h)t  of  love-makmg."  Mr.  Ryan  an<l  the  Deputy  Sergr  Mit- 
at-Arms,  Major  Smith,  were  also  there. 

Tuesday,  i6t/,.~l).  received  the  address  presented  to 
him  by  both  Houses  of  Parliament.     We-Gwen    Nellie 
and   I-went   to   the  Senate  Chamber,  where  our  scats 
were  just  in  front  of  the  Throne,  Ministers'  wives,  etc 
behind.     I  found  it  a  very  melancholy  ceremony,  and  it 
gave  me  a  nervous  headache. 

Afomiay,  22,/.— Wi^  began  our  last  fortnight  of  gay. 
eties.  (Iwen  and  Russell  *  are  alroadv  here,  and  Miss 
Abbott  and  Miss  Scott  arrived  to  take  part  in  two  con- 
certs. Miss  Abbott  has  stayd  with  us  before,  and  is 
very  nice,  and  a  great  musician.  Miss  Scott  is  very 
pretty  and  nice,  and  sings  and  plays  well.  They  both 
live  in  Montreal 

We  also  began  to  say  "farewell."     I),  and  I  went 
into  town,  and  in  the  Supreme  Court  spent  an  hour  and 
a  half,  saying  goodby  to  the   members  and   senators 
Mr,  Kimber  and  Mr.  Fleming  dined  with  us,  and  we  had 
music  in  the  evening. 

UW„r.u/ay.  24f/i.—\\c  had  our  last  "  Good-by  "  at  the 
Supreme  Court ;  and  in  the  evening  we  had  our  last  big 


Ml 


¥\ 


Mr.  ind  Mr»,  RiuwH  Stephenson. 


SS*to**te,, 


J 


V. 


B  » 


H 


412 


AfV  CAXAD/AX  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XX 


dinner.  The  table  formed  three  sides  of  a  square,  and 
we  had  over  seventy  people.  After  the  ladies  left  the 
room  a  senator  (Mr.  Vida!)  <go\.  up  and  proposed  my 
health;  he  sent  round  to  ask  I).  i(  he  might,  and  he  did 
not  lilce  to  refuse.  We  had  si''f,Mnjf  after  dinner,  and 
I'>cd  told  us,  when  he  saw  the  party  off,  they  were  de- 
lighted with  their  evening.  They  said  they  had  left  a 
man  in  the  Mouse  to  talk  against  time,  and  had  prom- 
ised to  he  back  at  nine ;  but  they  did  not  leave  till 
10.30. 

Fn\/ay,  26th. — In  the  evening  we  went  to  sec  C  har- 
lotte  Thompson  in  "  Jane  Eyre."  She  is  not  a  handsome 
woman,  hut  so  good  an  actress  th-t  she  makes  you  (pute 
forget  her  face.     Her  voice  is  very  pretty. 

Siiturddv,  2jth. — (;ur  concert  took  place  this  after- 
noon, and  was  most  successful.  The  music  was  really 
lovely,  and  people  seemed  delighted.  In  the  evening 
we  went  to  see  Miss  Multon  ("  East  Lynne  "). 

Tuesday,  joth. — I  have  organized  .t  l)azaar  incur  ten- 
nis-court to  pay  off  the  del)t  on  our  little  church,  and  wc 
began  to  arrange  it.  The  carpenters  put  up  the  shields 
on  the  walls  of  the  tennis-court  and  set  the  tables.  We 
carried  down  all  the  things,  and  some  ladies  from  New 
I'-dinburgh  came  to  help,  so  that  when  we  locked  up  for 
the  evening  everything  was  ready,  and  extremely  pretty 
it  all  looked. 

Wednesday,  M,ty  /,v/._Will  the  weather  be  fine  ?  That 
is  what  we  are  an.xious  about;  it  pours  all  the  morning. 
I),  is  arranging  a  I'icture-dallery  in  the  ball-room,  to 
which  the  jjublic  will  be  admitted  upon  payment  t)f  35 
cents.  Every  p.-nting,  water-color,  engravingor  photo- 
graph which  we  possess,  whether  in  a  book,  a  portfolio, 
or  a  frame,  is  exhibited  here,  and  in  addition  we  have 
borrowed  two  very  Hne  paintings  of  Mr.  (lilmour's.  An 
orange  ticket,  35  cents,  admits  the  juveniles  of  Ottawa, 


CH.  XX 

f  a  pqiiare,  and 
;  ladies  left  the 
J  proposed  my 
;ht,  and  he  did 
;cr  dinner,  and 

they  were  dc- 
they  had  left  a 
ind  had  prom- 

not   leave  till 

t  to  sec  C  har- 
lot a  handsome 
akes  you  rjnite 

ice  this  after- 
sic  was  really 
n  the  evening 

e"). 

aar  in  our  ten- 
;'hurrh,  and  we 
up  the  shields 
le  tables.  We 
ies  from  New 
locked  up  for 
tremely  pretty 

l)efino?  That 
1  the  morninjf. 
hall-room,  to 
laynicnt  of  25 
^viuj^or  piioto- 
)k,  a  portfolio, 
ition  we  have 
iilmour's.  An 
ies  of  Ottawa, 


MAY  1878 


J^AXCy  fi.'IZAAF. 


413 


and  many  of  the  old  people  too,  to  the  mysteries  of 
•'Punch  and  Judy."  which  Mr.  D-xon  and  Mr.  JJrodie 
perform  most  adnurably. 

We  were  putting  finishing  touches  to  ourselves  and 
to  the  tables  till  the  last  moment,  and  happilv  the  rain 
cleared  elf,  and  the  afternoon  was  lovely.  In  the  garden 
we  had  the  Guards'  band,  and  a  large  "tin  full  of  small 
parcels  tied  up  with  string.  Near  this  stood  two  lovely 
ladies  (Miss  Grifhn  and  Miss  Scott),  w;  h  fishing-rods  in 
their  hands;  for  ten  cents  you  were  allowed  to  try  your 
luck— that  is,  to  take  the  rod  and  fish  for  aparcel.'and 
this  became  so  popular  an  amusement,  both  for  oid  and 
young,  that  it  went  on  all  three  afternoons,  and  made 
much  money. 

Miss  Mary  Mardonald  Fold  flowers,  and  various  young 
ladies  had  raffle-papers  to  fill  up.  Miss  Macdona'.d  and 
Nellie  had  the  principal  stall,  and  I  was  kept  busy  at  my 
table  answering  questions,  seeing  to  raffles,  etc.  '  There 
was  so  brilliant  an  account  of  the  first  performance  of 
"  Punch  and  Judy,"  that  I  went  to  see  the  second  ;  but  I 
had  not  been  long  i.,  the  room  wh-n  I  heard  some  one 
say,  "There  is  a  fire!"  And  we  did  have  a  marvelous 
escape. 

A  smell  of  gas,  a  lighted  candle—and  flames  appeared 
through  the  lloor !  Mothers  shrieked  ;  but  in  a  few  sec- 
onds the  hose  [-.ut  out  the  flames,  and  no  damage  oc- 
curred, except  to  the  unfortunate  author  of  the  disaster, 
the  man  with  the  candle,  who  burned  his  hand.  In  the 
confusion  a  lady  threw  her  arms  round  Fred,  and  said  : 
"Oh  my  children!  my  children!  my  husband  is  in  the 
Public  Works  Department;  what  shall  1  do?"  etc..  etc. 

The  buying  and  selling,  the  music,  the  raffles,  the  tea, 
the  fishpond,  all  go  on  merrily. 

Friiiay, .?//.— The  weather  was  bad  yesterday,  and  we 
had  to  keep  indoors,  which  was  a  great  loss  to  our  pockets. 


414 


Af  V  CA  .VA  n/.i  X  JO  Uf;XA  L. 


CH.  XX 


\f\ 


Botli  Wecinesd 


av 


though  I  don't  think  I  eve 


and  yesterday  I  enjoyed  very  much, 


found  it  im|)ossible,  from  m 


r  was  so  busy  in  mv  life,  for  I 


attention  off  bazaar  business  f 
day  was  harder  work,  and  not 
raffle  all  the  thi- 


orning  till   night,  to  tak 


e  mv 


or  one  moment.     The  third 
so  amusing.     We  had  to 


s,  and  fewer  people  came,  and  it  was 


wet;  but  at  the  end    ve  had  an   auction  fo 
hour,  which  at -used  people  nuch. 


r  aiM-.'it  an 


It, 


The  thing  was  a  gr.at  success.     Everybod 
and  instead  of  my  modest  anticipations  of  makinirWoo 


y  enjoyed 


I  think  we  shall  clear  more  th 


they  had  never  been  t 


an  $2,000.    Kverv 


one  >aid 


o  so  honesi  or  so  pleasant  a  ba 


zaar. 


and  they    proved  theii   sincerity  by  coming  every  da. 
while  it  was  open. 

I  am  going  to  pay  off   the  debt  on  our  church  (for 

give  the  surplus, 


which  I  got  up  the  bazaar),  and  shall 

and  the  things  left,  to  tlie  Protestant  Orphan  Asyl 

Ottaw-i,  which  is  very  badly  off. 

Thursday,  j?/"//.— Parliament  was  prorogued  to-d 


urn  in 


Fn'tfiiw  rrt/i. — Thi 


ay. 

s  mornuig  we  had  an  exhibition  of 


the  i)hon()graph.     Two  men  brought  th 


vention  for  us  to  see.     It  is  (juite 


is  wonderful  fn- 


dt  r  which  you  turn  with  a  hand  I 


a  small  tiling,  a  cvl 


in- 


e,  and  which  you  place 


on  a  common  table. 

We  were  so  amazed  whei 
iron  speak  that   it   was   bar'   to  Relieve  there    was   no 


we  first  heard  this  bit  of 


trick!     Hut  we  all  tried  it.     I-  cl 


I),  made  it  talk  (Ireek,  the  Colonel 


sang  "Old  Obadiah, 


ang  a  French  song, 


and  all  our  vocal  efforts  were  repeated.  As  long  as  th 
same  piece  of  tinfoil  is  kept  on  the  instrument  you  can 
hear  all  you  have  said  over  and  over  again  ;  anil  the  in- 
ventor will   soon   have  completed  a   flat  instrument. 


hich 


in 


you  will  be  able  to  put  in  old  sayings  of  yours,  or 
of  others,  and  hear  them  again.  You  may  imagine  how 
susceptibic  the  needie  is  when  I  tell  you  that  the  first 


L. 


CH.  XX 


MAY   l«78 


THE    GEXERA!.    HOSr/TAr.. 


4t5 


1^ 


t)yed  very  much, 
in  my  lit'e,  for  I 
slit,  to  take  my 
itnt.  The  third 
ig.  We  had  to 
ime,  and  it  was 
n  for  aijont  an 

ybody  enjoyed 
of  makins$6oo, 
Kvcry  one  .-aid 
t-asant  a  bazaar, 
ling  every  day 

ur  church  (for 
t'e  the  surplus, 
ihan  Asylum  in 

gued  to-day. 
1  exhibition  of 
wonderful  in- 
tliing,  a  cyiin- 
lich  you  place 

ird  this  bit  of 
there    was    no 

)ld  ()l)adiah," 
I  I'rcnch  song, 
Vs  long  as  the 
ment  you  can 
1 ;  and  the  m- 
instrument,  in 
[s  of  yours,  or 
'  imagine  how 

that  the  first 


time  that  D.  spoke  into  the  machine  he  spoke  too  loud, 
and  tore  the  tinfoil.  The  last  performance  was  for 
I),  to  say  something  which  should  be  repeated  by  the 
machine  to  a  public  e.xhibiiion  in  Ottawa  in  the  evening. 
When  I),  had  fmished,  it  was  repeated  to  us  (by  the 
machine),  and  was,  we  hope,  again  delivered  with  good 
effect  in  the  evening. 

We  are  scattering  for  a  few  days.  Nelly  goes  to 
Niagara  with  the  Littletons.  To-morrow  morning  D. 
goes  to  Toronto  for  an  exhibition  c^f  pictures,  and  I  to 
spend  a  week  with  Clwen  at  Montreal.  Then  we  all 
meet  at  Montreal  for  a  Review  on  the  (Queen's  birthday. 

'I"he  house  is  full  of  packing-cases,  and  everything 
bare  and  miserable-looking,  and  I  am  very  glad  of  a 
rest  and  a  holiday. 

Montreal :  Monday,  2o//i.—ln  the  afternoon  Gwen 
and  I  walked  to  the  General  Hospital,  where  the  Grey 
Nuns  have  old  people,  orphans,  and  foundlings.  Wo 
went  over  the  whole  institution,  which  took  us  fully  two 
hours,  and  were  very  graciously  received  by  the  Sisters. 
They  admitted  us  to  the  cloistered  parts,  and  we  saw 
their  foundress  lying  in  state  Her  body  is  covered 
with  wax,  and  the  sight  is  not  at  all  ^rhastly— if  you 
could  think  it  was  only  a  wax  figure.  'I'he  superior 
gave  me  a  very  handsome  book,  a  biography  of  the 
foundresi. 

'I'he  Hospital  will  be  enormous  when  the  l)uilding  is 
finished  ;  it  now  holds  over  700  inmates. 

riiutsday,  2j(/.  —  ll.,  Fred.  Colonel  Littleton,  and  Dr. 
Grant  reached  Montreal  this  evening,  and  came  up  to 
tea  at  Gwen's  liouse. 

/>/(/</ V,  .v/^'— The  Queen's  Birthdav.    a    most   suc- 
cessful   day.     The  weather   was   exactly   suited  to  the 
occasion  :  not  too  hot,  not  di!.«itv.  not  wet.  but  b!i<?h 
and  sunshiny.     The  Review  began  at  11.30,  and  Gwen. 


-tfy^iiiMt". '  J».i. 


■1 

n, 

4 

It 

1 
i 


4if-" 


MV  CAXAD/AX  JOURXAL. 


<~H.  XX 


R  ssell.anrl  I  drove  up  to  the  (Irand  Stand  at  that  t,m. 
Ihe  roads   were   full  of  carriages  and  people  waik^n^' 
and  the  effect  was  quite  Derby-like.     I  n^ve    saw  su.  h';' 
crowd  ,n  Canada      The  f,e,d,  the  tree,  the  .de  i.rlh 
mountain     were  covered   w,th   spectators,   well-dressed 
smart  look.ng  people,  and  all  ,n  the  best  ^f  hulrr    ' 
There  were  about  3,00c    froops,  :.,ui   the  Governor, 
General  and  h.s  '.brilliant  S,aif  -  rode  down  the  ranks 
stopping  opposite  to  a  company  of   U„ii.d  States  Vo  ' 
mneers.  who  b.d  ...e  to  take  part  in  the  procccdin;  ' 
to^mako  a   htt.e   speech,   welcoming  thenA.     ranaS,' 

followed.      I..vorybo,Iy   was  delighted   with  evervthin.r 
and  what  cou.dvonwi.h  for  more'     The  horses,    S 

by    he  Ma,l..d  those   m  the  carnages  behaved  ad^ 
ab  y.  though  Gwen  and  I  never  could  get  up  a  pc  e  t 
fa.th  m  ours.  .:,nd  were  much  alarmed  bv  the  banSs    ,nd 
tne  squdxs.  which  were  to  be  heard  at  in'tervals         ' 

ye  next    hurrie.I    through  a  little    lunch,  and    pr,,- 
ceecled  ,0  the  Lacrosse  ground.     I),  .-as  ther    pre  eiUed 

-  anaddressanda..crosse/^.ndwe.sawu.::  V 
P'-ey, games.  Then  we  rushed  back  to  the  hotel  to 
Irop  I  .  f„r  a  great  military  l,anquet.  which  began  at 
hotH  t  T  '-'t  C-vcn-s  house,  and  returned  to  the 
hote,  to  pick  up  the  gentlemen  on  our  way  to  the  the- 

^cd  ,n.      It  was  a  very  pretty  sight,  all  the  guests 
being  ni  uniform. 

„,„*','"?''''■•'■:"'-"■'""'  '  l<-"  M„„tre,-,l  ,-,1  ,  A.  „  and 
>    I.  t  "l..nd   ri,„e,„„  a.,d  D,-.    G..,„  ,,J„^^  ,„  J  .' 

say  Good-by     ;  and  as  the  day  was  lovdy  we  sat  ou- 
on  the  grnss.     It  was  very  hard  to  say  ••  Good-by  "  tc 


z. 


CH.  XX 


tnd  at  that  'imp. 
people  waikinp,, 
ever  saw  siu  h  a 
the  !,ide  of  the 
■s,  wril-dress'-i. 

of  humors. 

the  Governor- 
own  the  ranks, 
"cl  States  Voi- 
le proceedings, 
-m  1.     Canada, 

a  sham  battle 
ith  everythin|r, 
3  horses  ,  Iddcn 
behaved  admi- 
-t  up  a  pc,  feet 
the  bands,  and 
rvals. 

nrh,  and  prn- 
liere  presented 
saw  two  very 
'  tlu'  Iu)tel  to 
lic-h  l)ejL:an  at 

iirncd  to  the 
ly  to  the  the- 
went  up  and 
ill  the  guests 

at  9  A.  M.  and 
■  urned  to  Ot- 

It  home"  to 
ly  we  sat  cut 
od-by  "  tr    .: 


MAV  1S78 


FARElVEI.r.    TO   OTTAIVA. 


41: 


many  kind  friends.     I  h 
to  go  through. 


ave  two  more  of  these  farewells 


Sunda\\  2d. — We 


last  time,  and  in  the  aft 
Nellie,  Freddie,  and  Vict 
the  stone  put  up  to  J.  P.  Ward 


ent  to    our  little  church    for  tl 


If 


ernoon   I),  and    I   drove  with 
oria   to  the  ( "emetcrv,  to   sec 


Irisli    cross.     O 


s  mcmorv. 


It 


is  a  small 


n  our   return    we  f(nMul    Dr.   (Iraiif  he 


can't  bear  to  say  "  Good-by,"  and 
every  day. 

Thursdav,   6th. — \\ 


comes    here 


ncarlv 


e   went    into   town,  where   an  ad- 


icre  was  a 


dress  was  pre.sented  at  the  Town   Hall.      11..  _ 
large    guard    of    honor   and    crowds   of    i)eople.      Th 
building  is  a  new  one,  with   a   fine  hall,  wh 


received. 


ere  we  were 


The  Mayor  read  the  add 


ress,  and  when   that  and  tht 
answer  were  over  we  shook   hands  with  all   th 


e  people 

who  liked  to  come  up.  Then  we  went  out  on  the  bal- 
cony, and  an  alarm  of  fire  was  sounded,  that  we  might 
see  the  engines  at  work. 

D.   then  addressed  the  guard  of  honor  (Governor- 
General's  Foot  Guards),  and  we  drove  away  amidst  !..ii.l 
cheers.     We  were  shown  a  full-length   picture  of   I) 
excellent  likeness,  painted  bv  order  of   the  Gov 


an 


for  the  Parliament  Jiuildings. 

I  am  sure  I  have  told  you  before  h 


ernment 


ow  much  Fred   is 


liked   here,   and  what   a  popular  A.  I).  ('.  he  has  1 
Well,  as  a  proof  of  their  ai)preciation   of  his  unfail 
kindi 


)een. 


ini 


less    and    courtesy   during  the  last 


SIX   vears. 


Canadian  friends  have  presented   him  with  a  hand 


us 


sil 


ccdented  honor ! 


some 


ver  tray,  teapot,  urn,  cream-jug,  etc.— quite  an  unpre- 


Fn'diiv,  yth. — T  oft   Ott 


awa, 


and  be  at  the  boat  bv 


*e  had  to  get  up  early 


seven.     It   was  trying;  first  we 


had  to  say  goodby  to  all  the   people  about  our  house, 
and  then   at  the  wharf  we   found  many  friends.     The 


•^  #, 


4i8 


MY  CAXADIAX  JOIRXAL. 


CH.  XX 


•  I ;  f 


!|      I 


large  guard  of  honor  was  d 


rawr 


'"  "P  on  the  top  of  the 
chff,  and  at  the  water's  edge  were  the  friends. 

A  number  of  young  men— the  bachelors— were  wait- 
ing for  me  on  board  with  a  bouquet  and  silver  holder  • 
then  the  ship  began  slowly  to  move  awav,  and  there 
were  long  cheers  and  waving  of  handkerchiefs  till  we 
were  out  of  sight.  Ottawa  looked  lovclv  as  we  left 
and  never  shall  we  forget  our  happy  six  years  here  and 
our  innumerable  friends. 

We  had  to  change  at  Grenville  into  a  train,  and  there 
say  a  few  more  good-bys.     After  half  an  hour  we  got 
mto  another  steamer,  which  took  us  to    Montreal      At 
several  of  the  small  places  we  passed,  crowds  had  col- 
lected  to  give    us  a  parting  cheer.      At  Montreal  the 
steamer  was  full   of  people,  all    come  to  say  good-by 
and  to  see  an  address  presented.     This   was  from  the 
Curlers,  and  with  it  was  given  a  beautiful  colored  photo- 
graph, with  a  view  of  Montreal,  and  portraits  of  our- 
selves and  many  other   people  we   know.     It  is  an  oil 
picture,  and  is  a  most  charming  remembrance      D    re- 
pi.ed;  but    in  the  middle  of  the  ceremony  the  galleries 
began  to  creak,  and  the  crowd  had  to  get  out  of  them 
(luickly. 

Saturday^  cf///.— Up  very  early  to  see  the  children  ofT 
to  England.  We  breakfasted  on  board  the  Quebec 
steamer,  and  went  in  a  tender  to  the  Allan  s  s  Scandi- 
navian.  The  Bishop  and  Mr.  Dobell  are  on  board  and 
It  was  a  lovely  day  for  starting  ;  but  it  was  very  sad  see- 
ing all  our  flock  go-and  now  we  have  half  left  Canada 

Dufferin  and  I,  Mr.  Reynolds  and  Mrs.  Littleton  went 
on  board  the  Druid,  and  are  now  on  our  way  to  Gaspd  • 
but  we  shall  not  be  ourselves  till  we  have  slept  upon  all 
the  partings  of  the  last  two  days.  It  has  been  so  de- 
lightful in  Canada,  and  never  again,  I  fear,  can  we  hone 
to  be  surrounded  by  so  many  true  and  kind  friends. 


CH.  XX 


the  top  of  the 
ends. 

)rs — were  wait- 
I  silver  holder  ; 
'^'ay,  and  there 
'rchiefs  till  we 
?ly  as  we  left, 
years  here  and 

rain,  and  there 
1  hour  we  got 
Montreal.     At 
owds  had  col- 
Montreal  the 
say  good-by, 
was  from   the 
:olored  photo- 
traits  of  our- 
It  is  an  oil 
ance.     D.  re- 
the  galleries 
out  of  them 

e  children  off 
the  Quebec 
1  s.  s.  Scandi- 
•n  board,  and 
very  sad  see- 
left  Canada, 
ttleton,  went 
ly  to  Gasp^ ; 
lept  upon  all 
>  been  so  de- 
can  we  hone 
friends. 


CHAPTER    XXr. 

THE    KASTERN    TOWXSH.PS    AND    LAST    I.AVS    IN    CANADA. 

Tuesday,  June  /////.-Everything  we  do  now  seems  to 
be  mipressed  with  that  horrid  word  "  last  "  •  here  we  are 
at  (lasp^  for  the  last  time,  enjoying  our  iast  f.shing, 
cru.sing  for  the  last  time  in  the  old  Druui,  and  mentally 
saying  "good-by  "  to  many  a  pleasant  thing  which  has 
become  a  habit  to  us  during  the  past  six  years 

VVe  arrived  early  in  the  morning,  and  even  before 
breakfast  there  was  an  evident  e.vcitement  on  deck  and 
I  could  hear  through  my  skylight  as  I  dressed  "yarns" 
of  the  forty-pounder  the  Colonel  had  lost,  and  of  the 
smaller  fry  he  and  Sir  F.  Graham  *  have  killed  I  elected 
to  remam  at  home  to-day,  but  Mrs.  Littleton  went  with 
Mr.  Reynolds  to  stay  a  few  days  with  him,  and  to  join 
her  husband  on  the  York. 

Fred  and  D.  went  to  the  lower  pools  of  our  river, 
which  they  can  fish  from  the  Druici. 

I  am  left  in  possession  of  "  Tinker,"  Fred's  devoted 
fox-terrier.  No  blandishments  of  mine  affect  him-  he 
chooses  to  sit  in  sackcloth  an  J  ashes  until  his  master's 
return;  he  shivers  in  the  ante-room,  will  not  be  warmed 
by  my  fire;  will  not  even  eat  the  mutton-chop  I  present 
him  with,  and  makes  me  feel  rather  small  at  my  signal 
failure  to  gain  his  confidence. 


1:1 


420 


A/y  CAXAD/A.V  JOURXAL. 


CM.  XXI 


H 


U'ednesdiiv.  ist/i.—  R,;:  u  all  night,  the  river  rising. 
And— as  I  tci,  the  gentlemen  to  cheer  them— there  are 
fourteen  h,.'irs  to  be  spent  in  doing  nothing!  I  divide 
my  day  into  hours  of  eating,  working,  reading,  writing, 
and  walking  on  deck.  So  I  hope  to  answer  all  my  let- 
ters, to  braid  Victoria  an  elaborate  '  .  '.,  and  to  be  well 
read  in  the  history  of  theA\^f  of  Independence  before  I 
go  to  Boston. 

'i'he  afternoon  was  fine,  and  I),  sketched,  and  some 
vtrv  important  telegrams  came.  I  had  a  cipher  one  to 
do,  which  took  me  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  that  made 
a  hole  in  the  fourteen!  There  is  a  riot  at  Quebec;  the 
soldiers  out,  the  ringleader  shot,  and  many  people 
Wounded. 

The  Littletons  arrived  when  we  were  at  dinner,  and 
we  spent  a  pleasant  evening  hearing  of  their  adventures 
and  playing  whist.  Sir  Frederick  remains  with  Mr.  Rey- 
nolds. 

Thursday,  /j///.— The  steamer  which  was  to  take  the 
Littletons  uvay  arrived  unexpectedly  at  5  a.  m.,  and  they 
had  to  pack  aiid  go  off  at  once. 

1).  and  Fred  went  out  fishing,  and  brought  home  only 
one  salmon  eai  h ;  Fred's  wa-.  a  beauty,  weighing  29  lbs. 

When  D.  came  home  he  settled  for  us  u)  go  up  to  the 
bush,  as  the  fish  have  left  the  'ower  part  of  the  river. 
This  was  just  .:  "ngev ,  when  got  a  telegram  from 
Quebec  asking  him  to  have  a  British  regiment  sent 
there,  so  D.  thinks  He  had  better  return  at  once.  The 
fires  are  lighted,  coal  taken  o.\  board,  and  by  two 
o'clock  in  the  night  we  are  off.  CJreat  \\\\\  be  the  d:,c.p- 
l)ointment  to  the  men  we  employ  '-  ■  c  when  they  come 
in  the  morning  and  find  u^  --one.  Btfore  starting  we 
sent  off  numbers  of  tele.!-/  s  id  the  clerk  of  the 
office  said  his  "head  felt  v.  bai  He  seldom  has  so 
much  work  to  do  at  quiet  Gu.pc. 


L.  en.  XXI 

he  river  rising, 
hem — there  are 
hing!  I  divide 
eading,  writing, 
iwer  all  my  let- 
,  and  to  be  well 
ndence  beiore  I 

ched,  and  some 
"x  cipher  one  to 
and  that  made 
at  Quebec;  the 
many    people 

;  at  dinner,  and 
leir  adventures, 
;  with  Mr.  Rey- 

vas  to  take  the 
A.M.,  and  they 

ight  home  only 
eighing  29  lbs, 
-o  go  up  to  the 
irt  of  the  river, 
telegram  from 
regiment  sent 
at  once.  The 
,  aud  by  two 
I  be  the  d;,^p- 
len  they  come 
re  starting  we 
;  clerk  of  the 
seldom  has  so 


JUNE  1878 


QVLBEC. 


^21 


gl' 


Friday,  /^///.— Such    lovel 


y    weather,   the  sea  lik 


lass,  and  covered  with  fishing  boats.  We  stopped  liid 
bought  over  sixty  cod,  some  of  them  very  large,  for  two 
dollars. 

Saturday,  /j///.-At  Father  Point  we  received  a  tele- 
gram  from  Dent  to  say  tiuit  all  our  rooms  were  filled 
with  soldiers,  beds  on  the  floors,  etc.  We  made  up  our 
mmds  to  stay  on  the  Druid. 

Sunday,  i6//,.~\\c  found  on  our  arrival  at  Ouebec 
this  morning  that  most  of  the  soldiers  had  left.^so  we 
went  up  there  and  found  everyll  ;g  tidy  again.  There 
IS  still  one  regiment  here,  and  the  officers  are  filling  the 
rooms  we  intended  for  Gwen. 

Dent  had  to  provide  for  sixty  officers-give  them 
blankets,  towels,  etc.;  so  I  don't  know  what  they 
would  have  done  if  she  had  not  been  here.  She  kept 
uem  .n  great  order,  too,  and  insisted  upon  their  replac- 
>n-r  a  pillow  which  had  come  to  grief  in  a  bolstering 
m.  ,  h.  "^ 

\\<  had  an  escort  of  cavalry  to  come  up  to  the  (Ita- 
del     i.n.     Everything  seems  quiet  for  the  present 

he  not.     J        lay  was  muggy  and  wet,  and  in  the  uLdU 
there  was  a  severe  thunderstorm 

Monday,  /,v/,._D.  was  very  busy  all  day,  and  in  the 
evening  we  duK-d  at  the  Lieutenant-Governor's.  I  sa! 
between  him  and  M.  Joly,  the  Prime  Minister;  and  on 

Jeat'd     :  °'  I'"  "^^  '  P'"^^^"^  "^^"-     '^''-^  talk  d 
a  great  deal,  and  were  very  amusing.     It  was  a  large 

d.nner.     Ue  had  the  military  chiefs  who  distinguished 
themselves  in  the  riot,  Su    N'arcisse  Belleau.  Mr.  Irvme 
and  several  more  of  the  political  celebrities  here 

li^ednaday,    /pM._There   was   a   review  of  "the  8th 
.J  A  f--'''''^  ""  ^"^  i^^^planade.     It  was  fine  and 

sunny,  and  the  r.   iment  gave  great  satisfaction  to  the 


I '    i  *■■ 


in 


t  ■ 


t 


422 


My  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH    XXI 


on 


military    lookers-on.     I),    complimented    them,  and 
their  return  to  barracks  they  were  disbanded. 

Thursday,  20th  -We  had  a  very  pleasant  expedition 
to-day.  Starting  in  the  Druid  about  lunch-time  we 
went  over  to  the  Island  of  Orleans,  where  we  drove'in  a 
carnage  lent  to  us  by  a  "  Habuan."  The  views  from 
the  island  are  lovely. 

Friday,  2ist.~\\^  slept  on  board  and  started  early  in 
the  morning,  reaching  St.  John,  a  town  at  the  other  end 
of  the  island,  by  breakfast-time.  We  were  not  expected 
there,  but  the  Druid  was  seen  in  the  distance,  and  by  the 
time  we  landed  every  cottage  had  hoisted  a  flag  or  a 
tablecloth,  and  people  were  at  every  door  bowing  and 
smding. 

-\fter  out   drive  round  this  end  of  this  pretty  island 
we  found  more  preparations   had  been  made:  two  men 
had  got   themselves  into  red  tunics,  and  seven  or  eight 
young  ladies    had    guns,   and   fired  an    impromptu  and 
amateur  feu  de  joic.     They  also  had  bouquets  ready  for 
us,  tied  with   white  ribbon  ;    mine  had   written  upon   it 
"  For  Lady    Dufferin,    in  remembrance  of  her  visit  to 
St.  John."     The  cur^  said  if  he  had  only  known  before 
we  should  have  had  all  the  country-people  in  to  greet  us. 
Quebec:   Saturday,  22d.—A\.  three  o'clock  we  went  to 
the   House  of    Parliament,  where   addresses  were   pre- 
sented to  I),  on  his  approaching  departure ;  he  replied 
and  both  addresses  were   read  in   French  and  English' 
The  room  was  very  full,  every  one  having  come  to  see 
the  ceremony.     The  speeches  in   Parliament  upon  the 
address   were    extremely    flattering,    and,  coming  from 
both  sides  of  the  House,  are  very  gratifying. 

Sunday,  2jd.—\\e  had  some  diflRculty  in  arranging 
our  journey  to  Boston-to  which  city  D.  has  been  in- 
yited  in  order  to  receive  a  Doctor's  degree  from  the 
University  oi   Harvard-so  as  to  arrive  there  on  Men- 


L. 


CH    XXI 


tliein,   and    on 
ded. 

sant  expedition 
lunch-time,  we 
;  we  drove  in  a 
["he  views  from 

started  early  in 
t  the  other  end 
e  not  expected 
nee,  and  by  the 
ted  a  flag  or  a 
or  bowing  and 


.  pretty  island, 
ade :  two  men 
seven  or  eight 
npromptu  and 
I  nets  ready  for 
ritten  upon  it 
f  her  visit  to 
known  before, 

in  to  greet  us. 
"k  we  went  to 
ses  were  pre- 
e ;  he  replied, 

and  English. 
%  come  to  see 
ent  upon  the 

coming  from 

in   arranging 

has  been  in- 

ree  from  the 

here  on  Men- 


LADV    DUFKEKIN. 


JUNE  1878 


B0S7  0.V. 


:.fyt 


4-3 

'lay;  It  would  take  lwcnty-fn„r  hours,  an.l  tlK-rc  wctc 
""trams  on  Sunday.  U  .  talkcl  of  .Mnn;:  up  to  Mont- 
real .n  tlK..  yjna,/,  but  as  that  u.uld  hav.  ,  ost  the 
(-vc.rnnK.nf  /:,oo.  wc  ^avc  .,,.  the  ulra  ;  and  yntuv  uas 
rewarded,  .or  the  mail  steamer  arr.vn.,.  an  express 
l.au)  had  immediately  to  be  sent  oil.  So  u.  hnished  our 
I'ack.n,,-  and  went  in  that.  |..  and  I  ha.l  an  exeellent 
"'«IU  in  thetran,,and  reaelud  Montreal  at.Mv  in  the 
mormnjr. 

JAW,,,.,  .v//,._n,  ,.^,,,,1  ,^^,^i„  ^,^  ,,j,^^,  ^^_^  ^^^^^ 

to    l)OSt(Jll.  ^ 

The  railway  passes  through  a  i  nelv  <ountrv -rivers 
and  mountains  and  fertile  valleys-and  we  a;riv<.,i  at 
.n.ston  late  in  the  evenin,..  We  were  met  at  the  station 
l.y  Mr.  W.nthrop.  who  had  just  been  assi.stinj,^  at  rather 
a  n.elanrholy  dinner-a  gathering  of  the  survivors  of 
iHselass  at  ndlet^e  llfty  years  ago  ;  the  heavy  hand  of 
lime  had  of  course  committed  fearful  ravages  m  the 
l-alf-century,  and  I  only  wonder  anvbodv  was  al,le  to 
lime  at  all. 

He  dr.  ve  us  out  to  Iplands,  which  is  about  a  .piarter 
of   an   hoar  from    Boston,  in  a  suburb  called   Il-ookline 
Our  ho.sfs  family  con.sists  of  Mrs.  \Vintlu.,p,  his  daugh-' 
t-r.  and  an    invalid    daughter  of   Mrs.  U  inthroi.'s.     We 
hud  tea,  and  were  then  glad  to  go  to  bed. 

r//rj</,nw,-///,  —  Immediateiv  after  bieakfast  there 
were  prayers  in  the  hall,  win.  h  is  long  and  narr..w  g.ung 
right  through  the  house,  with  a  door  at  ea,  h  en.l  int.. 
tlu-  grounds.  The  walls  are  wooden,  and  ,  ..vered  with 
PKl'ires;  there  are  tables,  b.mks,  bnst.s.  an.l  br..nzes 
about,  and  it  makes  a  very  nice  sitting-r.,.,m.  On  one 
Hde  isthedining-n.om.  an.l  on  the  other  the  drawing- 
room,  and  another  small  mom. 

At  eleven  we  went  (or  a  drive  in  the  neighbf)rho,.d- 
a  very  pretty  neighborhood   it   is-villa  after  villa  sur- 
38 


J? 


?  1 


m 


lyi 


fit 


''  ( 


li 
J' 


;'  'f 


424 


J/r  CAXAD/AX  JOURXAL. 


cn.  vxi 


rounded  hy  plots  of  ;rr;iss  and  i^^irdcns  open  to  the 
road.  'Mien  we  hinclied,  and  then  came  what  I  call 
the  American  part  of  the  day.  I  hail  had  an  idea  of 
sitting;  out  in  the  j^arden  anil  of  walkinjr  in  the  j^roinuls  ; 
hut  as  I  came  out  of  the  dininj;-ro(»m  I  was  told  that  1 
must  rest,  and  tlial  dniner  was  at  six.  I  was  led  there- 
lore  ui>  to  my  room,  ajrain  reminded  of  the  dinner-hour, 
and  shut  up  there  for  the  remainder  of  the  day.  Hav- 
ing a  nice  book,  I  reconciled  myself  to  this  un-KnglisU 
way  of  spendinj^  the  afternoon. 

At    dinner    I    sat    between    Mr.    Winthrop    and 


T,()nj;fcIlow,  with    Mr.  Dana  on  the  oti 


Mr 
im 


ler  side  of  h 
Wendell    Homes  and   Mr.  I'arkman  oi)posite  ;  the  (lov- 
ernor  of  the  State,  the  Chief  Justice,  Mrs.  Amory    Mrs 
M 


ason    (formerly    Sumner's    wife),    .Mrs.    I'erki 


ns,   our- 


selves, and  younjf  Mrs.  Winthrop,  formed  tiie  part} 

In  the  eveniiijif  there  was  a  reception,  an 
number  of  dislmjruished  people. 


(1  we  saw  a 


/ / \'(fnt'Si/(i\\   26 tit.  —  Til 


IS    niorniiiH-    I),    drove    with    ai 


officer  in  a  carriajje-and-four  to  the  State  House,  where 
he  met  the  C.overnor,  and  at  ten  went  with  him,  escorted 
by  lancers,  to  the  College  (Harvard). 


We  ladies  did  not  leave  the  house  till  ten,  and  tl 


len 


some  the- 


went  to  Harvard,  and  took  our  seats  in  a  hand 

atre,  immediately  opposite  to  the  platform,  where  all  the 

University  celel)rities  sat. 

I'here   were   nine  orations;  after   which  tl 


le  classes 


came   uj)  one    by  one,  listened  to  some  words  in  f.atii 


from  the    Presitlent.  and  were  handed  a  1 


)inulle  of  de- 


grees,  which  were  re-distributed  afterwards.  When  I), 
received  his  he  was  j^reatly  cheered.  W(;  were  allowed 
to  peep  into  the  line  hall,  where  the  party  (Xoo)  lunched; 

;ike  a  little  speech;  he  did 


m 


D.  was  there,  and  had  t( 

not  get  back  till  six.     We  went  to  Mrs.  Kliot's  (the  wife 

of  the   rfetsident  of  Harvard),  and  had  a  ladies'  Uinch. 


!t'ns  open  to  the 

:inic  what  I  call 
had  an   idea  oi 

:  in  the  Kr*>i'ii(is  ; 

i  was  told  that  1 
I  was  led  thcie- 
the  diimcr-hoiir, 

f  the  day.  Mav- 
this  un-lOiiyiisli 

ithn.p  and  Mr. 
icr  side  of  iiiin  ; 
)()site  ;  the  (iov- 
Irs.  Amory,  Mrs. 
<  I'erkins,  oiir- 
(i  the  party. 
)n,  and  we  saw  a 

drove  with  an 
te  House,  where 
th  Jiiin,  escorted 

ill  ten,  and  then 
I  handsome  tlie- 
ni,  where  all  the 

liieh  tlie  classes 
words  in  I..uin 
I  bundle  of  de- 
irds.  Wlien  I), 
e  were  allowed 
•  (Hoo) lunched ; 
speech ;  he  did 
Kliot's  (the  wife 
a  ladles"  lunch. 


JUNE  187S 


y/    X/:il^  /LVUL.LVD  HOME. 


4-^5 


.Sh 


e  IS  very  pretty  antl  ni(  e.  am 


1  I 


iron 


I   drove   home   wnh   .Mrs.  W  inll 
cemetery  tilled  with  beautiful  plant> 
yy////,v,/,/r,  j-///._I   spent 
e  with  Mrs.  U'inthrop  in  the  aft 


enjoyed  it  very  miu  h. 


tl 


'lough  a  very  line 


a   very  (uiiet  dav,  lak 


iriv 


w\x,  a 


oration 


another    Uiiuh,    with     an 

speeches    were    not    reported,    but    I 

amusing  and  good. 


eriiooii. 


I). 


went  to 


before     it. 
hear  his   wa 


he 


s  ver 


/•>/</< 


fei: 


</)■,  J.V///.— I),  and  I  went  to  breakf, 


ow. 


lit 


ami 


his  dau'dit 


er, 


selves,  were  the  party,      l.ongfell 


1st  with  Long. 
;i   Mr.   (ireeii,  and  our- 


and  kind. 


and  gave  me  a'  1 


ow   was   very  pleasant 


ni  which  he  wrote  mv  nam 


caving  a  copy  (,f  ■•  Rcranu 


He  told  us  of  a  letter  he  received  fr 


"111  a  ladv.  ask- 


ing f..r   his  autograph,   ami  suggesting   that   lu-  ■sl„,„|,| 


copy  her  one  verse  of  that  1 
"  Itreak,  break,  breal 


ovely  poem  of  his  heeii 


miiiLr 


W 


t'  got   back   to  I'plands  at  el 


started  on  a  very  long  drive  t( 


even. 


ind   soon  afU'r 


>  see  .Mr.  .\(la 
ister  in   London  at  the  time  of  the  W 


Mil 


nianv  frii'iids  tl 


Ills. 


If  was 


II',  and   made 


lerc 


Ii( 

has  I 


lives  ni    a  (harming  old-fashioned   I 


iv^^w  added  to 


in  everv  ilirection 


ago  he  i)uilt  a  library  in  the  garden,  which  i.  a  ( 
with  .something  verv  (piaint  about   it.     'I'l 


louse,  ivlii(  h 
UKl  ,1  few  vears 


iiic  room. 


bor( 


ers  in  the 


lere   are  Ix 


and  I'lnglish-Iooking. 
Mr.   .Adams   has  fi 


garden,  and  everything  is  old-fashioned 


ve 


New  Englander.- 


J^ons,  all   doing   well;    but   tlu 


West 


seem   to   think   that   the  n 


will  prevent  the  Kastern 


loiicN   <if   ihi. 


men  from  ever  tak 


pnmunent  part  in  polities  again.      .Mrs.  .\,L 


mg  a 


ims  IS  a  very 
was  a  \ery  pretty  daiighter-iii- 


nice  person,  and   there 

■»w    there    too.      W,,.    had    lum  heon    witli    thein.       'I 


drive   IS  a  beautiful 
sunny. 


oni 


e,  and   the  day  wa 


W        \\'-\  fIJ, 


antl 


\i 


426 


MY  CAXADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CIl.  XXI 


','\%Y'' ''  '  " 


m 


Mr.  Parktnan  diiu-d  with  the  W  iiithrops,  and  hud  a 
long  talk  with  I).      Miss  Motk'y  is  slayinj;  hiTc. 

S,Uur,/(i\\  jt^f/i. — We  were  iij)  very  tar:\-.  as  ilic  train 
started  at  ci;.,rht,  and  we  had  a  \nn^  drive  to  liost'ui. 
Tiic  Winthrops  and  Miss  Motley  saw  lis  otT.  Thcv 
liave  been  most  kind,  and  our  visit  has  been  very  pleas- 
ant. 

Indeed  I  must  say  that  wherever  we  have  been  in  the 
States  we  have  been  most  kindly  reeeived.  Xothinj,^  can 
exceed  the  hospitality  of  .\merieans;  they  seem  as  if 
they  never  could  do  enouijh  for  the  comfort  ami  enter- 
tainment of  those  who  visit  them  in  their  own  homes; 
and  I),  and  I  have  now  hat!  many  opportunities  of  ap- 
l)reciatinj^  their  kindness  to  stranj,'ers. 

The  day  was  hot,  and  it  seemcil  v^rv  loiii;  in  the 
train— from  <S  ,\.  m.  tdl  9  i-.  m.  ;  then  a  rush  up  to  the 
hotel  for  tea,  anil  then  all  ni^dit  in  the  "cars." 

S///i,/(iv,j(>///.—\\'c  reached  (Quebec  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  came  over  to  the  Citadel. 

Mt>//(/tn\  //t/y  /s/.~  \  very  hot  day,  upon  which  we 
did  not  do  much  till  the  evening,  when  we  started  in  the 
y;/7//,/_lMed,  I).,  and  1— for  Hie,  where  we  take  the 
train  for  Casaupscal,  on  the  Metapediac  River. 

Tnt'S(/a\\  2if. — It  was  very  pleasant  sitting  on  deck 
till  bed-time  last  night,  with  the  prospect  of  a  beautiful 
passage,  but  less  delightful  when  we  awoke  this  morn- 
ing, and  recognized  that  easy  roll  iiroihict  d  by  a  swell, 
and  heard  that  the  wind  was  very  strong,  and  that  we 
were  jiisf  going  to  anchor  on  account  of  the  fog. 

This  we  did,  and  wiien  I  fi'lt  ;i  little  more  accustomed 
to  the  motion,  or  when  it  was  lessened  by  anchoring,  1 
got  up,  and  lookeil  into  tlie  siirrotmding  mist,  wonder- 
ing when  it  would  clear,  and  whether  we  should  see  land 
soon  enough  to  get  ashore,  and   catch   the  train  any- 


where; aiul  what  the  Stephens'  would 


iliMik  wiien   ihey 


irops,  and  had  a 
njf  here. 

irly,  as  the  train 
:irivc  to  liost'in. 
V  lis  (iff,  'I'licy 
been  very  pleas- 
have  been  in  the 
xl.  Nothinji^  can 
they  seem  as  if 
nfort  ami  enter- 
leir  own  homes; 
lortiniities  ui  ap- 

'■ry   loiiiT   in  the 
rush  up  to  the 
cars." 
irly  in  the  morn- 

upon  which  we 
ive  startt'd  in  (he 
Me  we  take  the 

River. 

sittin),^  on  deck 
ct  of  a  beautiful 
I'oke  this  niorn- 
uccd  by  a  swell, 
mjl,  and  tiiat  wc 
'  the  fojf: 
lore  accustomed 
by  anchorinjj,  I 
a  mist,  w<in(h'r- 

sliould  see  land 

the  train  any- 
hink  when   they 


Jii.v  1878         Don-^V    THE   ST.   I.AWREXCE. 


427 


w 


ent  to  the  station  and  did  not  find  us,  th 
injr  that  we  had  trusted  to  the  sea  at  al 
(Iwen  would  imajrine  if  she  ditl  not  hear  of 
"lys  (which   is  (juite  iJossible).      Hut  happilv  our 


)W- 


ey  not  kn( 

I  ;  and   what 
us  for  three 


lers 


fuun 


^•ere  cut  short   by  the  liftin^r  (,f  the  b 


(I  ourselves 


betw 


Woil- 


L^  and  we 


een  three  shoals,  and 


du  Loup.     We  landed  at  once  with  our  li 


(»U 


r  servants  on   first,  h.id  a   1 


on 


and 


near  Riviere 

agjjjajfe,  sending 
;,^  drive   to  the  station. 


near  it  met  a  verv  e.\cited  old  1- 


us  that  the  train   had  just   ;r,,„e  wl 
rived,  but  that  they  had  stopped  it  at  tl 
aiKl  were  going  to  send 


renchman  who  tokl 
len  our  servant  ar- 


le  ne.xt  station. 


it  up.     There  is 
(ieneral. 


us  on  in  a  car  and  engine  to  pick 


some  Use,  yuu  see,  in  being  Cover 


nur- 


\V1 


leii  we  reached  the  train  at  C 


the  chief  of  the   line 


iicouna,  Mr.  I!ryi!ge> 


found  that  we  had  been  k 


line  into  our   carriage,  and   we 


ever,  the  tram  wa 


eeping  him  waiting.     As.  1 


low- 


a  little  to  i!:s  delintjuen 


s  originally  an  hour  late,  w 


c  onlv  added 


cies. 


W 


ic,  where  we  were  to  have  landed,  is  such 


place;  and,  indeed,  on  our  way  to  ( 
ral  lovely  bits  of  .scenery,  thoiigl 


sevc 


country  looks  desolate  and  du 


a  pretty 
asaupscal  there  are 
1  a  great  deal  of  (he 


ow 


Mr.  Hrydges  had  his  wife  and   familv  on  1 
n   private  car,  and  he  and   his  friend 


)oar( 


1  I 


lis 


with  hatsiipon  which  was  written  "Create 


V\ 


e  asked   I  he 


s  walked  about 
a-sar'sChost." 


name  of  a  barge  on  which  he  1 


meaning  of  this,  and  b)und  that  it  is  ll 


le 


ill  the   Restigoiich 


ives  in  his  river.     IFefislR's 


)lf  fr 


(".  a  magnificent  river  which  l)rancheH 


om   (he   Metapediac  at  a  place  called  the  Kork 


Up  this  he  is  drawn  in  his  I 


)arge,  anchors  it  at  tlie  top, 


and  makes  excursions  in  boats,  always  retu 
yacht  at  night. 


rnnig  to  hi» 


Wo 


got  to  our  de.stination  about  hidf^pnst  eight,  and 


found   Mrs.  Stephens,   Mr.    Douglas,  and  Sir   1 


redenck 


wff^~      (l^^^^^^W^Wr't^iAa 


MtoWMHAMMMIiiUMMMHU 


!<j 


428 


MY  C.lXAD/.tX  JOURXAL. 


Clf.  VXI 


Clraham  at  tlie  station  t 
fortunately,  away. 


o  meet  us.     .Mr.  Stephens  is,  un- 


'I'i 


lis  IS  nuicii   more  civilized  fishin,ir  tl 


aflV^nls.      'I'iie  liouse   itself 


lan   our  river 


IS  a  very  nice  cottage.     A 


railway  runs  along  the  banks  of  the  river-  the  st 


cl(jse   to   the   h 


ouse 


th 


nothing  lonely   about  the 


ition  IS 
ere   is  a  telegraph,  and   there  is 


lif( 


are  ojien  :  \  mu  look  over  distant  hills  and 


he  surroundings,  too 


have  plenty  of  space  round  voi 


mountains,  and 


bush. 


I,  verv  dilterenl  i 


rom  (lur 


\\ 


e  had  an  excellent  dinner,  and  afterwards  sat 


an  iron  jxjt  full  of  hre,  the  fuel  b 


round 


fing  supplied  bv  i'et 


cr, 


a  (Ik 


iracter  of  dwarfish  height,  who  used  to  keep  a  light- 


house, but  left  it  in  tlisgust  1 


vited  so  many  guests  to  see  the  li'dith 


)ecause  his  wife's  master  ii 


put  h 


ouse,  and  each  one 


IS  or  her  linger  on  the   rellector,  1 


which  Teter  had  to  rub  out.     I  can   i 


eaving  a  smudge, 
magine  how  ag-rra- 


wen  had  told  me  of  tl 


lis 


rating  it  must  have  become.      ( 

man,  and  warned  me  that  he  would  always  enter  my  bed- 

a   ladv  has 


ro 


om   withdut   knocking;  however,  I    think 


been  told  off  t 


o  wait  on  me. 


Mrs.  Stephens  was  much  afraid  we  should  be  too  hot 


m  our  bedroom,  which  is  under  the  roof;  but  th 
ing  cooled  down  considerably,  and  we  found  it  1 
also  there  arc  no  (lies,  which  is  delightful. 


e  even- 
iixurious : 


]\'('Jiit'uhn\  ?(/.— W 


c   got    up  at    seven,  had   a 


tea  and  a  bit  of  i)read,  and  went  out  ft 
went   together  in  a  wood 
John   Hesh, 


CUD   o 


siimg. 


I). 


aiK 


f 

1  r 


en    canoe  with   a 


man   called 


Ht 


ivi,  ;i  ('lasjie  fishcrm.in,     I  worked 


cphens   being   very   anxious   that    I    should 


awav  (Mr. 


salmon)  and  0.  Hogged  the  water,  and      , 
Ibow."  another  p„„l_l,„t  eleven  o'clock 


catch    a 


i: 


a  rise  had  we  had, 
found   that  every  01 
It 


we  tried  "Ale 


came  and  n<il 


was  too  hot,  nr  hiiU  I 


so  we  went  home  to  breakfast,  and 
u-  else   had  been  ccpially  unlucky. 


)een  too  hot  (salmon  are 


won- 


li  than  our  river 
nice  cuttayc.  A 
-I' ;  tlie  station  is 
ipii,  and  there  is 
irroundings,  too, 
.1  nioiintaiiis,  and 
llcrent  from  our 

rwards  sat  round 
ipplied  by  I'eter, 
I  to  keep  a  h^dit- 
vvife's  master  in- 
se,  and  eacli  one 
:ivin<i^  a  smudge, 
t,nne  how  aggra- 
I  tohl  me  of  this 
•s  enter  my  hed- 
link  a   huly  has 

nuld  he  too  hot 
';  hut  the  even- 
nd  it  hixurions ; 
I. 

I,  liad  a  cu])  of 
ling.  I),  and  I 
I  a  man  called 
rked  away  (Mr. 
hould  cairh  a 
i'  tried  "  A  lee's 
k  came  and  not 
hreakfast,  and 
pially  nnliicky. 
dmon  are  won- 


JILY  1878 


O.V    T/IE   M/:  TAP  ED/ AC. 


tie 


rful 


-reatures  for  fimlinjr  ,„it  reasons  for  not 


iHit  we  were  cheerful,  and  hoped  for  ! 


429 


risin.L,^) 


eveninir 


)etter  si)ort   in    il 


Hreakfast 


on 


"•as  a  great  meal  of  porridge,  smoked 


,    Dacon,  eggs,  tea  and  coffee 


salm- 


period  of  rest  and   idl 


an 


d   aft 


eness. 


I 


•-•r  it  canu 


till  about  four,  wl 


i  took  a  walk  with  1 


icn  the  gentle 


at   with  Mrs.  Stei)hens 
men  went  out  again,  and 


ler. 


W 


e  went  along  the  road   to  Alec's   ICll 


was  fishing,  and  watched  him  for  a  1 


'ow.  where  I). 


walk 


eti   back   to   th 


ong  tinu' 


V\ 


t'  liouse,  and  he  ret 


len  we 


and  made  nie  come  and  try  mv  I 


iirned    there   t( 


close  to  it  ;  l)ut 
time,  and  I),  wa 


my  luck  in  a  beautiful  \Hn>\ 


'>"'   ii'»t  a  lish  to  Iieseen.      It 


s  just  taking  "01 


was  (hnner- 


jnyful  click  of  the  reel  was  hear.l,  and 


u;  (-ast  more,"  wl 


lei'  the 


salmon,    jumping    out    of    the    wat. 
an<.tlier  long  run,  so   that    D.'s  line 
We  followed  1 


er 


away  rushed  a 

and    then    taking 

was  nearly  all  out. 

er  would 


iim  as  well  as  the  verv  rough  wat 
IH-rmit;     hut  our  long-e.xi,ected   victun  dropped   the   tlv 
out  of  his  mouth,  and   left  us  feelmg  very  m.u  h  "sold.' 


fishing  having  hien  so  had  all  day,  the  whole  I 


li"l(l  were  collected  on  the  bank  t 


lOUSC' 


w 


th 


e  dined  well,  in  spite  of  our  misfort 


"  watch  the  capture 


c  evening  as  usual. 


tines,  and  spent 


77iitrsJcn\  .////.— We  1 


ia\ 


on 


about 


the  line,  and  an  engine  whenev 


e    Mr.    Ilrydges's  priv 


so  we  settled  to 


:ite  car 
IT  we  want  to  move 


make  an   e\|)edition   t( 


other;  and  we  had  a  ch 

river,  fishing  at  every  pofij.  1^„t 


see  the 

iiggage 

<»tu    lanoe.  Sir    Frederick  m  the 

irming  morning  going  down  the 


nver  to-day.     We  started  at  7.30,  strvants  and  I 
in  our  car,  I),  and   I   in 


At 


seeing  no  prt  v 


eleven  we  reached  Assmatpiaghan.  where  .»«r  car 
was  ••  anchored."  and  in  it  we  found  a  hreakfast  laal.  and 
everything  looking  st>  comfortable. 

Then  we  ordered  ,he  engine  to  ^tarv  and  ha.Ia  really 


l!' 


|8^iiiiiw."ii^y,>. 


ff 


.  \ 


m  m 


430 


MV  atX.tD/AX  JOCKXAL. 


cir.  XXI 


lovely  "drive"  to  Campl)ellto\vn. 


Met; 
ill  ti 


'I'll 


e  junction  of  the 


I)c(iiac  and  the  Resti,ir„„che  is  <iuite  l)eautiful,  and 


all  the  way  alon^r  the  road  the  vie 
\\^V,  to  see. 


\vs  are  well  worth  com - 


\t Campbelltown  I),  and  1    walked  down  to  the  pi 
sittinj,r  down   there,  enjoyed   the  vi 


and 


air  till  our  enj,Mne  had  t 


er. 


ews  and  the  sea 


board 
Wh 


a.i^ain,  and  came  back  t 


urned  round,  when  we  got 


on 


o  our  anch(^ 


rage. 


en  the  sun  was  low,  we  resolved  to  give  the  sal 
on  another  chance,  but  i)y  dinner-time  tl 


m- 


caught  was  a  small  grilse,  which  I). 


ler,  and  which  we  ate  at 


once.     We  have 


ic  only  thing 
got  just  before  din- 
most  comfort- 


able bedrooms  in   the  car,  where  we  slept  after  we  had 
sat  over  a  s|)Iendid  camj)  fire  outside. 


Friday,  st/i. — Th 


e  inor 


engme  going,  and  returneil  to  C 


Ming  fishing  over,  we   set 


our 


eleven  o'(  lock  i)reakfast 


In   ll 


ic   afternoon  ev 


isaupscal  in  time  for  the 
and  very  hungry  we  were  for  it. 


ery  one  set  to  work  again,  and    1). 


caught  one  jH-pound  salmon,  and    Fred 
we  were  away  lie  got  one  25  pound> 
luckiest  of  the  party. 

After  dinner  no  less  th, 
in  our  honor — ;■ 


one 


Wh 


He 


le  lias  i)een  the 


in  .seven  bonfires  were  lighted 


IX  on  the  opposite  bank  of  tl 


one  nearer  to  us.     They  looked  very  bright  in  the  d 


night 

S(ifii>i/(jy,    6f/t. — Fisli 
the  morning;  and  at  th 


le  river,  and 
ark 


in 


g    unlucky— nothing    d 


one   in 


ree  we  left   i 


very  sorry  not  to  spend  a  few  days  more  in  th 
spot. 


n  our  special  train. 


•s  pleasant 


In  al 


we 


)out  two  hours  we  got  to  R 


re  a  crowd  and  an  address.     We  d 


imouski,  where  the 


re 


lage,  looked  into  a  coll 


rove  round  the  vil- 


to  our  car,  where  we  refreshed 


ege  and  a  convent, 


and  returned 


oil 


tea. 


Tl 


rselves  with  a  cup  of 


le  next  station  was  Hie.  and  there  we  had 


address,  and  walkeil  throuiHi  t! 


another 


!'!ge  and  down 


10 


the 


L'  junction  of  the 
te  beautiful,  and 
;  well  worth  com- 

lown  to  the  pier, 
;\vs  and  the  sea 
lien  we  got  "on 
horasre. 

0  give  the  sahii- 
the  only   thing 

just  before  din- 
L'  most  comf(trt- 
l)t  after  we  had 

ver,  we   set  our 

1  in  time  for  tiie 
y  we  were  for  it. 

again,  and  1). 
one  36.  While 
le  has  been  the 


■  Iiing  done  in 
r  sjiecial  train, 
ill  this  pleasant 

ki,  where  there 
round   thevij- 

'■,  and  returned 
with  a  cup  of 

ivehad  another 

id  down  to  the 


Jui.v  1878 


cnrco'^TiMr. 


431 


quay,  where  we  found  our 


IS  quite  lovely:  the  hills  are  of  most 
esque  shapes,  and  I  should  think  it  a  rl 


own  boat  waiting  for  u-      B 


ic 


spend  a  summer  in,     Uc  looked 


ciuious  and  \,       ir- 
'larming  place  ro 


a  party  of  Indians  were  1 


into  a  great  cave,  where 


)urned   bv  their   ene 


;ig,,_exchanged    greetings   with' .Nlrs.  Archi 
)t'll,  whose  children   were  firing  a  salute  in 


mies  long 


bald  (■ 


anip- 


iiid  who  has  a  very  pretty  cottage  h 
)oard  with  the  cure,  a  M.  Syl 


our  honor. 


ors,  who  went  over  the  Di 


ere,  and  then  got  on 
vain,  and  some  other  visit- 


mained  at  anchor  till  twelve,  and  th 


■///</,  and  then  left  us.     W 


e  re- 


do u  sac. 


Monday,  c5V//.— We  startetl 
we  began  to  fish  for  tr(jut,  and  1 


seven  dozen  bet 


anchored,  we  got  a  boat 


ween   us.     In  the  eve 


en   set   off  for  Tu- 


iq'  the  Saguenay.     .At  one 
'y  three  had  caught  about 


ning,  as  we  were 


the  C 


anadi.m  boat-son<rs 


s  crew  to  row  round  us,  sini 


:"ig 


us 


TiusJay,  (^///.—Sir   Frederick   Grah 
at  C'hicoutimi  (where  we  arrivet 


aham    and   Fred  left 


ing), 
on. 

(iwen,  and  1  went  by  st 
getting  into  a  buggv.  d 


i  early 


in  the  morn- 


:md  went  on  an  expedition  after  land-locked 
riuy  will  cam|i  out  for  tl 


saim- 


nie  or   four  tl; 


I  vs. 


«&.» 


caintal  sport  herewith  two  good  sal 
watching  him,  and  looking  at  th 


aix 


ere, 

had 

mon,  and  we  enjoyed 

e  salmon  jumping  up  the 


eamer  to  Ha-Ha  Hay,  aiul  th 
Ii-ove  to  thcA-Mas  River.      I) 


We  returned  to  the  Dndd,  dined,  and 
e  night  we  started  again,  and 


In  th 

in  the  morning 

Wednesday,  ioth.~\S^x\ t 
away  our  blankets,  but  left  al 


sat  on   deck. 


arrived  at  'I'adous, 


;ic 


over  our  emjity  house,  took 


shut  it 


ou 


up— the  last  time.  I  su 


r  nice  furniture. 


and 


place.     I  hate  th 


ppose.  we  shall  ever  see  thi 


ese  good-bys. 
Russell  .Ste|ihenson  came  on  board,  and 


for  Quebec.     Unfortunately,  the  d 


we  started 
ly  was  very  wet  and 


il 


432 


My  CI. \.l /)/,!. V  JOVKXAL, 


H.  XXI 


tlisa^rreeable  ;  hut  the  rain  will  put  out  the  hush  fires, 
which  are  very  i)a(l  just  now  at  Tiiree  Rivers.  The  Mont- 
real hoat  ac  tually  had  to  turn  back  on  account  of  the 
smoke. 

T/nnsday,  /////._( ;,;t  to  Quebec  carlv.  and  came  up 
to  l)reakfast  at  the  Citadel.  I  suppose  we  shall  not 
aK-am  sjiend  a  ni-lit  in  the  dear  old  /;////,/.  In  the  even- 
iiik^  we  ^^ot  a  tek-ram  from  Sir  K.  'rhornlon  (Washinjr. 
ton),  to  .say  that  two  thousand  rou,<,dis  had  left  ]5uffalo, 
and  Hone  to  Montreal  to  "  help  "  on  the  i  Jth. 

Fruhy,  y-V//.— (Ireat  anxiety  felt  in  the  mornini,^  as 
to  what  woukl  happen  in  Ah.ntreal.  Three  thous'and 
troops  are  there,  and  the  Mayor  has  two  hundred  special 
constaI)les. 

At  eleven  the  (ieneral  telej,n-aphed,  "There  will  he  no 
procession  - ;  and  the  end  of  the  whole  thin-  was,  that 
the  Mayor  fcnnul  an  old  .\ct  which  declared  the  proces- 
sion ille.tral :  he  seized  the  marshals  as  they  came  out  of 
the  Hall,  :,„o  ihe  rest  of  the  people  remained  shut  up 
the  whole  day.  and  in  the  evening-  were  conveyed  home 
in  cah:,      Wc  b.ope  this  is  the  end  of  it. 

Sumh.y,  /  ;.y/._Sir  iM-ederick  and  Fred  returned  from 
a  pleasant  expedition,  hut  unsuccessful  fishinjr.  They 
came  hack  in  a  hoat  full  of  Americans— forty-seven  of 
the  Maine  Press  Association— and  had  j^^reat  fun,  as 
these  people  sang;,  and  recited,  and  acted,  and  made 
speeches.  They  were  all  in  church  this  mornini,^  and 
we  asked  them  to  come  up  and  see  the  Citadel  and  have 
tea.  It  was  rather  awful  when  they  first  arrived,  as 
there  was  no  one  to  introduce  them,  and  they  came  in 
two  and  three  together,  all  arm  in  arm.  HoA-ever,  I  cut 
it  short  by  going  and  shaking  hands  with  everv  one. 
though  they  evidently  did  not  consider  this  an  'intr 
duction,  as  all  afternoon  they  kept  re-intr()ducin<r 


one-  to  the  other. 


tro- 
me 


t  the  bush  fires, 
•ers.  The  Moiit- 
1  account  of  the 

y.  and  came  up 
c  we  siiall  not 
/■  In  the  even- 
•nton  (Washinjr. 
Kul  left  Buffalo, 
iJtli. 

the  morniii;,r  ^^ 
riiree  thousanii 
hunth-ed  special 

riiere  will  be  no 
thin;;  was,  that 
red  the  jiroces- 
ey  came  out  of 
lained  shut  up 
conveyed  liome 

returned  from 
fishing.  They 
forty-seven  of 
«:reat  fun,  as 
cd,  and   made 

morninir,  and 
tadel  ami  have 
St    arrived,  as 

they  came  in 
loA-ever,  I  cut 
til  every  one, 
tliis  an  intro- 
troduciii":  me 


Ji:lv  1S78 


QUEBEC. 


They  said  they  were  a  large  \), 
all   serene,   all    bent   upmi   havii">- 


433 


irtv,  "  all  harnu>ni(ius. 


g  a  good   tune,  all   ac- 


quaints since  childho.ui."     \Vc  walked  about  the  plat- 
form, and  they  were  much  j, leased  when  thev  found  th 


were  adniilteil  into  t; 


inner  circle,"  and  that  it 


ley 


was  a 


private   sp(,t.      They   greatly  appreciated   our   beautiful 
view,  and  were  interested  in  all  we  showed  tiiein. 
we  gave  them  tea  and  claret-cup,  which  t 
enjoy  ;  showed  the  1' 


lev 


to  the  Citadel  to  sav  "  (n^.d-l 


luis  of  Abraham,  and  the 


Then 
d  to 
rned 


)V 


Fort 


y-seven   people   shaking    hands  (jnickiv,  and  all 


saying  the  same  thing  in  a  different  form  :  ••  Thank 

for  delightful  entertainment";  "Most    h 

seen  y.iu  ";  "  Such  a  lovely  time  "  ;  '•  V,.ur  hosnitalitv 


vou 


ippy  to    have 


N 


The  honor 
never  forget 
our  tour,"  etc.     I  smiled  a 
ceremony. 
In  the 
received  the  parties  most 


Hope  lo  see  vmi  in  the  State; 


e\cr  expected 


"  Will 
I'lie    feature    of 


most  too  pleasantlv  o\er  this 


morning  paper  I  see  that  "  their  !• 


xcell 


liemselves. 


free  from   restraint   as   tl 
Fred  to  give  his  love  to  his  mot 
a  good  son. 


jraciouslv,  and 


encies 
Were  (luite  as 


On 


e     man    told 


'ler,  and  tell   her  sh 


e  had 


;h 


ere  wa 


s  one  ver 


his  h 


V  fu 


air  in   the  dra 


nny   little  man  who  combeil 


never  could  talk  to  him.  a 
introduced  to  me. 
Sat  III- Jaw  20th. — \\ 


wnig-rooni   when  he  came 


ni 


but    F 


at  eight.     Directlv  aft 


,  as  some  one  was  always  being 
c   were   up  early,  and  breakfasted 


Graham    off  to    England.     Colonel 


came  down  from  Ottawa,  and  tl 


er  we  went   down  to   see   Sir    F. 
and    Mrs.    Littleton 


I 


other  break-up  of  our  life  here. 


was   very   sorry  to  say  good-by  to  tl 


leir  children  sail  to-day. 


icm,  as  It  is  an- 


At   twelve  we  had  a  combin.iiion  of  breakf,-!-.*  and 


luncheon,  no  one  ha\ 


uig  eaten  much  this  mornin 


(r 


:ind 


%■ 


FAREWELL    TO   OTTAWA. 


417 


I  have  tn-6  more  of  these  farewells 


1  bf|tle 

ryth% 


ru 


perfecm 


ds,  atK^i 


d  pro- 
rsented 
f)  very 
stel  to 
fan  at 
to  the 
le  the- 
p  and 
guests 

w.  and 
o  Ot- 


% 


y  kind  friends. 

_o  th cough. 

1^1   Sun^o),  2d.~\Ve  went  to   our  litti?  church    for  the 

^t   time,  and    in    tbtf  afternoon  D.  and    I  drove  with 

iphe,   Freddie,   and   Victoria  to  the  Cemetery,  to  see 

'lit  stone  .put  up  to  J.  P.  Ward's  memorv.     It  is  a  small 

^I?ish   cross.     On  our  return   we  found   Dr.  Grant  •  he 

^'^can't  bear. to  say  "Good-by,"  and  comes   here   nearly 

\%^Very.day. 

r/iursdaj,d/Pt.-^Wc   vent   into   town,  where   an  ad- 
dress was  presented  at  the  town   Hall.   '  T-Jiere  was  a 
%'arge   guard   of    honor   and   croSfds   of    people.      The 
building  is  a  "new  one,  with  a  fine  hall,  where  we  were 
received.  - 

The  Mayor  read  the  address,  and  when  that  and  the 
answer  were  ov?rwd  shook  hands  with  ail  the  people 
who  hked.  to  come  up.  Then  we  went  out  on  the  bal- 
cony, and  an  alarm  of  fire  was  sounded,  that  we  might 
see  the  engines  at  work. 

D.   then  a,ddressed  the  guard  of  honor  (Governor- 
General's  Foot  Guards),  and  we  cfrove  away  amidst  loud 
cheers.     We  were  shown  a  ftill-Iehgth  picture  of  I>.,  an 
excellent  likeness,  painted  by  order  of  tlie  Government 
'     for  the  Parliament  Buildings.  .  * 

I  am  sure  I  have  told  you  before  how  much  Fred  is 
liked  here,  and  what  a  popular  A.  I).  C.  he  has  been. 
Well,  as  a  proof  of  their  appreciation  of  his  unfailing 
kindness  and  courtesy  during  the  last  six  years,  his 
Canadian  ffieiids  have  presented  him  with  a  handsome 
Sliver  tray,  teapot,  urn,  cream-jug,  etc.— quite  an  unpre- 
cedented honor !  % 

FnWay,  7M.— T  >ft   Ottawa.     We  had  to  get  up  early 
and  be  at  the  boat  bv  seven.     It  wa«t  tryif 


Ji^itUg.t.&tst.«^ 


had  to  say  ^o'od-by  to  all  the  people  about  pur  house, 
<ind  then   at  t¥je  wharf  we  found  many  friends.     The 


4^8 


,^, 


mmmm 


'  M  Y  CAXAPIAN  JO  VRXAL. 


CH.  XX 

large  gukrd  of  honor  was  drawn  Up  on  "the  top  of  the 
cliff,  and  at  the  water's  edge  were  the  friends. 

A  number  of  young  men-^the  bachelors— were  wait- 
ing for  me  on  board  with  a  bouquet  and'sUver  holder- 
then  the  ship  began  slowly  to  move  away;  and  there 
were  long  cheers  and  waving  of  handkerchiefs  till  we 
were  out  of  sight.  Ottawa  looked  lovely  as  we  left 
and  never  shall  we  forget  our  happy  six  years  here  and 
our,  innumerable  friends.    \ 

.,  We  had  tq  change  at  Gr^iiville  into  a  train,  and  there 
say  a  few  more  gopd-bys.     After  half  an  hour  we  got 
into   another  steamer,  which  took  us  to   Montreal      At 
several  of  the  small  places  we  passed,  crowds  had  col- 
lected  tQ  give    us  a  parting  cheer.      At  Montreal  the 
steamer  was  full  of  people,  all   come  to  say  good-by 
and  to  see  an  address  presented.     This  was  from  the 
Curlers,  and  with  it  was  giv^en  a  beautiful  colored  photo- 
graph, with  a  view  of  Montreal,  and  portraits  of  our- 
selves  and  many  other,  people  we  know.     It  is  an  oil 
picture,  and  is  a  most  charming  remembrance      D    re- 
plied;  but   in  the  middle  of  the  ceremony  the  galleries 
began  to  creak,  and  the  crowd  had  to  get  out  of  them 
quickly.        ,^  ., 

Saturday,  cPM.-Up  very  early  to  see  the  children  off 
to  England.  We  breakfasted  on  board  the  Quebec 
steamer,  and  went  in  a  tender  to  the  Allan  s  s  Scandi- 
navian. The  Bishop  and  Mr.  Dobell  are  on  board  and 
It  was  a  lovely  day  for  starting  ;  but  it  was  very  sad  see- 
ing all  our  flock  go-and  now  we  have  half  left  Canada 

Dufferin  and  I,  Mr.  Reynolds  and  Mrs.  Littleton,  went 
on  board  the  ^r«/^,  and  are  now  on  ouc  way  to  Gasp6- 
but  we  shall  not  be  ourseJves  till  we  have  slept  upon  all 
the  partings  of  the  last  two  days.  It  has  been  so  de- 
lig^f£mCanada,an4neveragaina^^^ 
To  ^  surrounded  by  so  many  true  and  kind  friends. 


^. 


\t 


CM.  XX 

op  of  the 


M         •    \-'-.  ~mg!e«3i?5^i^' 


ivere  wait- 
;r  holder ; 
and  there 
is  till  we 
5  we  left, 
here  and 


'^ 


■/■ 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

THE    EASTERN    TOWNSHrpS    AND    LAST    DAYS   IN    CANADA. 

Tuesday,  June  //^.-Everything  we  do  now  seems  to 
be  impressed  with  that  horrid  word  "  last  "  •  here  we  are 
at  Gasp^  for  the  last  time,  enjoying  our'  last  fishing 
cfu.smg  for  the  last  time  in  the  old  Druid,  and  mentally 
saying  '<good-by  -  to  many  a  pleasant  thing  MtM(ih  has 
become  a  habit  to  us  during  the  pa^six  years^ 

We  arrived  .early  in  the  morning,  and  even  before 
breakfast  there  was  an  evident  excitement  on  deck,  ^hd 
.'Pcould  hear  through  my  skylight  as  I  dressed  "yarns" 
of  the  forty-pounder  the  Colonel  had  lost,  and  of  the 
smaller  fry  he  and  Sir  E.  Graham  *  have  killed  I  elected 
to^^am  at  home  to-day,  but  Mrs.  Littleton  went  with 
Mr.-Reynolds  to  stay  a  few  days  with  him,  and  to  join 
her  husband  on  the  York. 

Fred  and  D.  went  to  the  lower  pools  of  our  river 
which  they  can  fish  from  the  Druid 
'  I  am  leift  in  possession  of  "  Tinker,"  Fred's  devoted 
fox-terrier.  No  blandishments  of  mine  affect  him  •  he 
chooses  to  sit  in  sackcloth  and  ashes  until  his  master's 
return  ;  he  shivers  in  the  ante-room,  will  riofe  b^  warmed 
by  my  fire;  will  not  even  eat  the  mutton-chop  I  present 
him  with,  antl  makes  me  feel  rather  small  at  my  signal  V 
failure  to  ^||n  his  confidence.  lM 


k  Grahaiq  of  Netherby. 


% 


I 


tt 


I! 


ii 


% 


%. 


420 


jqURNAL, 


•    *     , 

'    1 


CVL  XX.I 


Wednesd<^^M:—^7i\n  all  night,  the  river  rising. 
And— as  I  te#the  gentlejnento  cheer  them-^there  are 
fourteen .%ours  to  be  spent  in  doing  nothing!  I  divide 
my  day  into  ho^jrs  of  eating,  wq|kiM|^|gLing,  writing, 
and  wj^Jking  on  deck.  So  I  hcgW^nf^  all^iy  k- 
ters,  tl)  braid  Victoria  an  elaborate  frock,  antl  to  be  well 
readji^^he  history  of  the  War  of  IndependeDCe  before  I 
go  ^^^oston. 

^.'^  afternoon  was  fine,  and  D.  sketched,  and  some 
ver;|^|'fflportant  telegrams  came.     I  had  a  cipher  one  to 
'  hich  took  me  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  that  made 
ible  in  the  fourteen!     There  is  a  riot  at  Quebec ;  the 
0'W|t   the,  ringleader    shot,    and    many   people 
Vounded.     *^ 

The  Lit^fetons  arrived  when  w|  were  at  dinner,  and 
we  spent  a  pleasant  evening  hearing  of  their  adventures, 
and  playing  whist.    Sir  Frederick  remains  with  Mr  Rey- 

.  Thursday,  /J'iJib— The  steamer  which  was  to  take  the 
Littletons  away  arrived  unexpectedly  at  5  a.m.,  and  they 
had  to  pack  and  go  off  stt  oncek, 

D.  and  Fred  went  out  fisfting-^^nd  broughi.hbme  Only 
one  salmon  each  j  Fred's,  j.w.as  a  b'&au^y.,  weigtiing29  lbs. 
When  D.  camelj^e  l^ettred  Ikx  us  to  go  up  to  the 
bush,  as  the  fish  Spfe  left  the  lower  part  of  the  river. 
This  was  just  arrang^when  he  got  a  telegram" from 
Qtj^bec   asking   hin^^ilijave   a   B^sh  xegin#t  seat, 

T^ 
j!,3nd   by   two 
11  t>e  the  d^sap-,  - 


tlvere,  so  D.  thinks  he'^liad  bettei'.^reyrn  %ionce. 
s  fires   are   lighted,    coal   taken    on   b 


"o'clock  in  the*  night  we,^r^~off 


ji^intment  to  the  men  we  em 
inr  th*^  naprning  and  vfind  us 
set^  ^fT^numbers   of  telegraniK;  an 
•^Iffice  said  his  ''head  felt  very  bad." 


vheil'fhey  cojxme^. 

ifore  starting  we 

the  clerk  of  the 

He  seldom  has  so 


^  ■ 


■J!" 


■■:T 


JU.VK  1878 


QUEBEC. 


421 


/-r/^/ov,  /^M.-Such  lovely  weather,  the  sea  like  a 
glass  and  covered  with  fishing  boats.  We  stopped  and 
bought  over  sixty  cod.  sonje  of  them  very  large,  for  two 
dollars.  -' 

Saturday,  /jM.-At  Father  Point  we  received  a  tele- 
:||am  from  Dent  to  say  that  all  our  rooms  were  filled 
w.th  soldiers,  beds  on  the  floors,  etc.  We  made  up  our 
mmds  to  stay  on  the  Druid. 

Sunday,  /<JM._We  found  on  01^  arrival  at  Quebe^ 
this  mornmg  that  most  of  the  soldiers  had  left  so  w^^^" 
wen^p  there  and  found  everything  tidy  again    '  There 
IS  still  one  regiment  here,  and  the  officers  are  filling  the 
rooms  we  intended  for. Gwen. 

.Dent  had  to  provide  for  si.vty  officers-give  them 
■^^fets,  towels,  etc^;  so  I  don't  know  what  they 
■  ^/>mbave  done  if  slie  had  not  been  here,  ^gycept 
^''^'^^'■^^*  °*-^^>too,  and  insisted  upon  thei^kc: 
ing  a  p|aw  whjph  had  come  to  grief  in  a  bolstering 
match.||M»?  ' 

del  "^^^W^  "^^ "''''''  ^°  ^^'^^^  "P  ^°  ''^Cita- 
del  wi  h.     Evf^ing  seems  quiet  for  the  preserU 

the  Hot'"  Th'T^'  ^*'"'  '"  '''  "''  ^"^  '^'^  "«  -"  -bout 
he  not.    The  day  was  muggy  and  wet,  and  in  the  night 
there  was  a  severe  thunderstorm  ^ 

Monday,  ///^-D.  was-  very  busy  all  day,  and  in  the 
evening  we  diiVed  at  the  Lleutenant-Goveitr^  ^ 
between  him  and  M.  Joly.  the  Prime  Minister ;  and  Tn 
the  other  side  of  him  was  a  pleasant  man.  They  talked 
a  great  deal,  and  were  very  amusing.     It  was  a  lar^e 

themselves  in  Ee  not.  Sir  Nardsse  Belleau,  MMrvinV 
and^several  more  e./. the  political  celebrities  here 


fuX    ^'';  ™°^"'".8^  <^"  the  Esplanade.     It  was  fine  and 
sunny,  and  the  regiment  gave  great  satisfadTion  to  the 


y''.^,  ■■     f?T«?io)''  If ~5i9|^,^T!^?E»ir«"^  •?(i<«Tj'ifr's»^iff 


Cy^  i.  ■  ■, ; 


422 


Afy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH    XXI 

military    lookers-on.     D.    complimented    them,  and   on 
their  return  to  barracks  they  were  disbanded. 

Thursday,  2oth.~\\e  had  a  very  pleasant  expedition 
to-day.  Starting  in  the  Druid  about  lunch-time  we 
went  over  to  the  Island  of  Orleans,  where  we  drove  in  a 
carnage  lent  to  us  by  a  "  Habltan."  The  views  from 
the  island  a're  lovely. 

Friday,  21s/.— We  slept  on  board  ami  started  early  m 
the  morftmg,  reaching  St.  John,  a  town  at  the  other  end 
of  the  island,  by  breakfast-time.  We  were  hot  expected  ' 
there,  but  the,  jDruid  was  seen  in  the  distance,  and  by  the 
time  we^  landed  every  cottage  had  hoisted  a  flag  or  a 
tablecloth,  and  people  were  at  every  do©r  bowing  and 
smiling.  ,  ■ 

After  oui   drive  round  this  end  of  this  pretty  island 
we  found  more  preparations   had  been  made:  two  men 
had  got  thems,elyes  into  red  tunics,  and  seven  or  eight 
young  ladies    had    guns,   and    fired  an    impromptu  and 
amateur  /eu  de  joir     They  also^had  bouquets  ready  for 
us,  tied  with  white  ribbon;    mine  had   written  upon   it 
''For  Lady   Dufferin,    in  remembrance  of  herSisit  to 
St.  John."     The  cur^  said  if  he  had  only  known  before, 
we  should  have  had  all  the  country-people  in  to  greet  us. 
Quebec:  Saturday,  22d.— At  three  o'clock  we  went  to 
the   House  of   Parliament,  whtfre  addresses  were   pre- 
sented to  D.  on  his  approaching  departure;  he  replied 
and  both  addresses  were   read  in  French  and  English' 
The  room  was  very  full,  every  one  having  come  to  see 
the  ceremony.     The  speeches  in  Parliament  upon  the 
address   were    extremely    flattering,    and,  coming  from 
both  sides  of  the  House,  are  very  gratifying. 

Sunday,  23d.— We  had   some  difficulty  in   arranging 
our  journey  to  Boston— to  which  city  D.  has  been  in- 
J2^^.a^,^°-i^g^l.^ Doctor'sjjggree.  {Eom_llre-_ 


"University  of  Harvard-so  as  to  arrive  there  on  Mon- 


Htft^ 


# 


I 


-  f 


r 


LADY    DITKKRIN. 


JUNE.  1 878 


BOSTON. 


A~l 


V 


Uay  ;>it  w,n,ld  take  tw.nt^-f,.ar  hours,  and   there  were 

he,    r^ns  on  Sunday      uy  talked  or«o,„,  up  to  M.,,u-' 

'    real    ,n    the  Z;,-W,  but    as   that   xvould    have' eost   the 

.  ..  .  Ooverm„an^,oo,  we  ^ave  up  the  idea  ;  and  virtue  was 

.    -     rewardc,forthe'n1air.stea,ner    arr.vn^.    an    .xpres. 

>     ^^^  ■nn^ed.ately  to  l,e  sen|  o^.    So  we  ,rn,sh.i  our 

,    pa,lcn^  and  went  .n  that..    I,.  ax,d   I   had  an 'excxHent 

,    il.ght   u,  the  tram,  aiuJ  reached   Montreal  at  s,>;   in   the 

.  '  morning.  .        .  ; 

^       Mo^uiay,  24th.-^.  started  again  at  n.nc  on  ourway 
JD  Ijostb^i.  V  -         '  < 

The>^^l_^way  passesthrou^rh  -a  lovdv  eountry-^rivers 

.     /md   mountaurs  and-  fertde   valleys-and  we  arrived  at    ' 

ios^M.  hue  m  the  evening.     .^Ve  were  met  at  the  station 

by  Mr.  U.nthrop,  who  had  just  been  assistnig  .rt  rather 

a  meiaucholy  dmner^a  gathenng  of  the  surviv'ors  of 

Pifvs  class  ,t  X^^^,^^   hfty  years  ago;  the  heavy  hand  V>r 

nine  /lad    of,e.n.rse  committed,  fearful  ravages   ni  the 

^alf.c^ftiry.  and    I  only    wonder  aVbo.dy' was  able  to 

.  -.  dine  at  ali.     ^ 

.      '      FTJ  drove*  out  to  Upland.,  which  ,s  ab(.u(  a  quarter 
Ct  arf  hour   from    Boston,  in  a  snJ^urfj  called   Hrookline 
««l:jfa«st:s  family  consists  of  Mrs.  Winthrop,  hi.  daugh- 
■  on    inviilid'-daughter  of   Mrs.  \\  inthrop's      Ue 


ha'(Tfe^a4*l  were  then  glad  to  go  to  bed 


Tuesday ,  ^f//i--^' Immediately    after  breakfast    the 


were  prayers  in  the  hall,  whkh  is  1 


re 


rigtit  through    the   house,  with  a"d 
the  grounds.     The  walls  .arc  V^ood 
,.|»irtures;    there  are -tables,  hm^ks,  b 
about,  and  /t- makes  a  very  fiu  t 


<uig  and  narrow,  going 
loor  at  each  eiul  into 


en.  and  Covered  with 


'lists,   and    br< 


'tiJK-S 


liid 


e  is  the  dining-room,  and  on   th{*other  the  d 


room,  and  tn'oth^ small  room 


sitting-ro<(m.     On  one 


rawing. 


-^ 


^  'fK-rt^^^nrir^nrr-rrrr  ^  lTrTvr7fl-  fTielTe^TiXw,  rhl^T^dT 


^ 


a  ifit 


y  pretty  oeighborhood    it    is-vijia  aAcp  villa,  sur- 

2(5  * 


'# 

.< 


■-— -fia 


WM^PlPPilPI 


424 


Afy  CANADIAN  JOURNAL."^ 


cit.  txi 


pounded    by   pjots  of   grass  and    gardens  open  to  the 
road.      Then   we  lunched,  and   then   came   what  I   call 


the  American  part  of  the  day.  1  had  had  an  idea  of 
sitting  out  in  the  garden  and  of  v^alking  in  the  grounds  ; 
but  as  I  came  out  of  the  dining-room  1  was  told  that  1 


must  rest,  and  that  djnner  was  at  six.     I 
f( 


was  led  there- 
re  uj)  to  my  room,  again  reminded  oi  the  dinncr-^our, 


.and  shirt  up  there  for  the  remainder  of  the  day.  Hav- 
ing a  nice  botik,  I  reconciled  myself  to  this  un-Knglish 
way  of  spendiirg  the  afternoon. 

rop    and    Mr. 


At    d 


inner    I    sat    between    Mr.'   W  inth 


Longfellow,  with    Mr.  Dana  on  the  oth 


Wendell    Flomcs  an<I   Mr.  I'ark 


er  side  of  him 


nian   opposite 


the  ( 


lOV 


ernor  of  the  State,  the  Chief  Justice,  Mrs.  Amory.  Mrs. 
Mason  (formerly  Sumner's  wife).  Mrs.  Perkins,  our- 
selves, and  young  Mrs.  V\inthr(>p,  formed  the  party. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a  reception,  and  we  saw  a 
number  of  distinguished  |)eoplc. 

U'cdiieulay,   ^f^M.— This   morning    I),   drove  'with    a 
\^   officer  in  a  carriage-and-four  to  the  State  House,  where 
he  met  the  (rovcrnor,  and  at  ten  went  with  him,  escorted 


n 


by 


an 
We 


cers,  to  the  College  (Harvard). 


adies 


did 


not  leave  the  house  til!  ten. 


and  then 


went  to  Harvard,  and  took 


our 


hainh 


seats  in  a  haifdsomc  the- 
atre, immediately  opposite  to  the~  platform,  where  all  the 
UYiiversity  celebrities  sat. 

There  were  nin«t  orations;  after  which  the  classes 
camei  up  one  by  one,  listened  to  some  word.s  in  Latin 
^rom  the  President,  and  were  handed  a  bundle  of  Ci€- 
grees,  which'  were  re-chstributcd  afterwards.  When  I), 
received  his  he  was  grcatly  cheered,  ^\■c  were  allowed 
to  peep  in|^)  the  fine  hi»1^,  where  the  pjl/ty  (Hoo)  lunched  ; 
1).  was  there,  and  had  to   make"  a  Utile  .speech;  he  did 


ll 

not  get  l)a(  k  tiii  sixi     Ue  went  to   Mrs.  Eliofs  fthe  wife 

> 

1 

ot  the  President  of  Harvard),  and  had  a  lacjies' lunch; 

1 

J  ■ 

JUNE  1878  ,  A   A'£IV  EXGLAND  HOME. 

»      ■ 
'-■■■*.■ 

She  is  very  pretty  and 


I  drove  lioihe  with   M 


cemetery  fiUcd  witii  be^wtiful  plaiib 


An 


ice,  and  I  enjoyed  it  very  much. 
0>.  W'inthroi)  through  a  very   ( 


ine 


Tliuruiav:  2flh.~\ 


Iriv 


,e  withMrs.  Winthrop  in  the  aft 


pent  a  very  (piicl  day,  takinjj  a 


another    luncli. 


ernoun. 


1). 


with 


went  to 


an 


'oration  "    beforfc    it.       Tht 


speeche^s   were   not   reported,   but    I    hear  h 
■amusin),r  and  ^(kk\. 


IS  was  V 


try 


J'ndiiY,  ^St/i.~\). 


fellow.     He   and   his  dauidi 


md  I  went  to  brcai<fiist  with  I 


Rhter,  a  Mr.  ( 


selves,  were^  t lie  i)arty.     I.cju^feH 


.on^. 
irecn,  and  our- 


ynd  kind,  and  j,Mve  nie  at 
in  which  he  wrote  my  name. 


ow   was.   very  pleasant 
leaving  a  copy  of  -  Kcramo.s." 


He  told  Us  of  a   letter   1) 


c  received  from  a  la(rv,  ask- 


'"R  for  his  autograph,   and  suggesting   that   he  ^hoak 


copy  her  one  verse,  of  that  lovel 
"  Break,  break,  break. 


y  i)oeni  (^f  his  begi 


•ginning 


We 


got   back   to  I'plands  at^I 


started  on  a  very  1 


Ministe 


r  in    London  at  the  t 


ong  drive  to  see  Mr.  Ad, 


even,  and   soon  after 


inis. 


many  friends  there. 


ime  of  the  War. 


He  was 

and  made 


He 


lives  in   a  char 


has  f/een  added  t 


ming  old-fashioned  1 


<>  in  every  di recti 


on 


ago  he  built  a  library  in  the  garden,  whici 


with 
bord 


something  very  (juaint   al 


louse,  which 
ainl  ;ii  few  )«^r.s 
1  is  a  fine  roo 


)out    It. 


ers  in  tht 


'Ih 


m, 
ere    are   bhx 


garden,  ami  everything's  old-faslujJied 


k' 


e   sons,  all  doing  .well  ;    but   tht 


and  iMiglish-looking 

Mr.   Adams  lias.fiv. 
New  Knglandefs  seem  t 
West  will  ^xrevent  the  Kastc 
prominent  part  in  politics  again.     Mrs.  Ad 


u   think   that   the 


m 


oney  of  the 


nice   person,  and  there  was 


rn  men  from  ever  taking  a 
;ims  ^s  a  vety 


law    there    tOd.      We    had    lunci 
'Ir'YC   is  a   bt.-autiful 


a  very  pretty  dauj,Hitcr-in- 


leon    with    theiM.       'I'l 


le 


sutlny. 


u.K^,  and  -rirtr  day  fas  warnr^aHir 


"Si 


\r  I 


mmm 


426 


ji/T  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


CH.  XXI 


Pi. 


Mr.  Parkmjan  dined  with  the  Winthrops,  and  had  a 
long  talk  with  I).     Miss  Motley  is  staying  here. 

Saturday,  ^///.^We  were  up  very  «arly,  as  the  train 
Started  at  eigiht,  and  we  had  a  long  drive  to  Ikjston. 
The'  Winthrops  and  Miss  Motley  saw  us  off.  'I'hey 
have  been  mQ$t  kind,  and  our  visit  has  been  very  pleas- 
ant. 

Indeed.  I  must  say  that  wherever  we  have  been  in  the 
States  we  have  been  most  kindly  received.  Nothnig  can 
exceed  the  hos|)ital.ity  of  Americans;  they  seem  as  if 
they  never  could  do  enough  for  the  comfort  and  enter- 
tainment of  those  who  visit  them  in  their  own  hT)nies; 
and  I),  iind  I  have  now  had  many  opportunities  of  ap- 
preciating thei\r  kindness  to  strangers. 

'I'he  day  was  hot,  and  it  seemed  very  long  in  the 
train— from  8  a.m.  till  9  p.  .m.  ;  then  a  rush  up  to  the 
hotel  for  tea,  and  then  all  night  in  the  "cars." 

Sunday,  joth.—\\*i  reached  (^uebet^  early  in  the  morn- 
ing^ajid  came  over  to  the  Citadel. 

Yilmday,  July  /s/.—A  very  hot  day,  ui)on  which  we 
did  not  do  much  till  the  evening,  when  we  started  in  the 
y^rt/id—Vrcd'  D.,  aiid  I— for  Hie,  where  we  .take  the 
train  for  C'a.saUjiscal,  on  the  Metapediac  Rivef 

Tuesday,  2d.~li  was  very  pleasant  sitting  on  deck 
till  bed-,time  laist  ni;rht,  with  the  jirospect  of  a  beautiful 
passage,  but  less  delightful  wlien  we  awoke  this  morn- 
ing, and  recognized  that  easy  roll  produced  by  a  swell, 
and  heard  that  tho  wind  Was  vefy  strong,  and  that  we 
Were  just  goin|;  to  arvchor  o,n  account  of  the  fog. 

-  This  we  diit,  and  when  I  felt  a  little  more  accustomed 
to  the  motion, or  when  it  was  lessened  by  anchoring,  1 
gat  up,  and  looked  into  the  surrounding  mist,  wonder- 
ing when  it  would  clear,  and  whether  we  should  seii  land 
ROon  c»o"gh  tf)^^ej_^ashore,  and  catch  tji^p  tr-on-any- 
whore;  and  what  tfie,  Stephens'  woultj  think  when  they 


W^"****! 


*.. 


■...  s^'^';.i 


the  morn- 


JUI.Y  1878  BOfm   THE   ST.   LAWREXCE. 

went  to  the  station  and  did  not  find  us,  they  not  know-^- 
ing  that   we  had  trusted  to   the  sea  at  all;,  ami   what 
Cwen  would  imagine  if  she  did  not  hear  of  us  for  three 
days  (which  is  quite  possible).     U'ut  happilycur  "  won- 
ders '  were  cut*hort  by  the,  lifting  of  the  fyg,  and  we, 
found  ourselves  between  three  shoals,  and  near  Riviere 
du  Loup.     We  landed  at  once  with  our  baggage,  sending  ' 
our  servants  on  first,  had  a   long  drive   to  the  station  • 
-^and  near  it  met  a  very  excited  old  Frenchman  who  told 
•us  that   the   train  had  just  gone  when  our  servant  ar- 
rived, but  that  they  teid  stopped  it  afr  the  next  station 
and  were  going  to  send  us  on  in"a  car  aiid  engine  to  puk^ 
It  up.     There  is  some  use,  you  see,  in  being  (;uv:i;rnor- 
CJeneral. 

When  we  reached  the  train  at  Cacouna,  ,Mr   Hrydges 
the  chief  of  the   line,  came  into  our  carriage,  ami  we 
found  that  we  |?ad  been  keeping  him  waiting      \^   h^. 
evcT,  the  train  was  origiiullly  an  hour  late,  we  only  added' 
a  little  to  its  delJnciuencies.  ,  ' 

I5ic,  wlrere  we  were  td  have  lande.l,  is  such  a  pretty 
place;  and,  indeed,  on  our  way  t<.  Casaupscal  .there  are 
several  lovely  bits  of  scenery,  though  a  great  deal  of  the 
country  looks  desolate  and  dull.  ' 

Mr.  Hrydge.s  had   hi»  wife  and   family  on  board  his 
own  private  car,  and   he  and   his.  friends  walked  about 
with  hats  upon  which  was  written  "  (;reat  (-esar's  ('Ihu^t  - 
We  asked  the  meaning  of  this,  and  found  that  it  is  the 
name  of  a  barge^on  which  he  lives  iij  his  riveY.     He  fishes 
in  the  Kestigouche,  a  magoificent, river  which  bron^hes 
off  from  the   Metapediac  at  a  place  called,  the  hork^ 
Up  this  he  IS  drawn  in  his  bitge,  anchors  it  .tt  tlie  top 
ami  n?akes  excursions  in  boats,  i^hvays  returning"  to  his 
yacht  at  nijifht. 


"'S 


4¥^ 


Trnrrn  ouMiestiiMtion  about  hairi^^t~right  ancT 
found   Mrs.   Stephen.^  Mr.,  Douglas,  and  Sir   Medei-icW 


li 


,  ./v-  ^.v 


CH.  XXI 


ftt  gq^tatfT-uiiltirkff 


rt  was  too  hot,  or  had  been  too  hot  (salmon  are  ^fron 


X 


JULY  1878  ON   TlfE  METAPEDIAC 

♦  429 

derful  creatures  far  finding  out  reasons  for  not  risinjj)  • 

but  we  were  cheerful,  and  hoped  for  bcttl-r  sport  in  tie 
evening. 

Breakfast  was  a  great  meal  of  porrulgc,  smoked  salm- 

^  on,,  bacon,  eggs,  tea  and  coffee;    and  after  it  came  a 

perKKl  orest  and  idleness.     I   sat   w.th   Mrs.  Stephens 

■  1  about  four,  when  the  ^^entlemen  went  out  again,  and 

I  took  a  walk  witlj  her. 

•  ^y^J^"t>long  the  road  to  Alec's  Hlbow,  where  n 
was  fKshmg,  and  Watched  him  for  a  long  tune.  Then  we 
waked  back  to  .the  house,  and  he  returned  there  tocf 
and  made  me  come  and  try  my  ludc  in  a  beaut.ful  pooi 
ck.e  to  .r  but  no  loot  a  fish  to  be  seen.  ItwasdinLr! 
lime,  and     ).  was  just  takn.g  '-one  cast  more,"  when  the  ' 

J.;yfuldK:k   of  the  reel   was  heard,  ,nd,:awa;rush«i: 
salmon,    jumpnig   out    ,.f   the  .water.  .,nd    then    taking     • 
au<>theHong  run.  so   that  l),-s   i,ne  was"  nearlv  ^11  out     ' 
.  Ue/pliowed  hm,  as  well  as  the  very  mugh  waler  would 
permit;     but   (H.r   l.ong-ex,)ectcd    victim  dropped   the   fly 
outu>f  his  m..uth,.and  .left   us  feelmg  very  much  "  sold  '        ^ 
Ihe  HsI^mg  h:mag  been  so  bad  ailday,  the  whol,  house- 
hold were  coHerted  on  the  bank  to  watch  the  capture' 

-Wedirted  welt,  in  spite  of  our  misfortunes,  and  spent 
the  evening  as  usual. 

ThurUay,  ^f/,:^We  have    Mr.    lirydges's  private  car 
on  the  Ime.  and  an  er>gine  whenever,  we  want  to  move 

ahmit  •    i;,\  .1.,.  i„»ti...i  .       r*      1  -  • 


abdut;  so  we  settled  to  intake  a 


river  to-day.     We  .started 


n   expedition   to   see  the 


our  car,  D.  and   I 


at  7.30,  servants  and,  lugj,^age 


other  ;  and  wc'  hatj  a  charming  mar 
riv^er,  fishing  at  every  pool.but 


in  one  canoc;  Sir  .irtderick  iti  the 
liing  going  down  the 


At  eleven   we  reached  A 


seeing  no  prey. 


ssmaquaghan,  where 


our  car 


^»U  iq  it  we  found  a  breakfast  Iwrr?  .-.n,! 


Was  "anchored, 

cvci yiliirig  lo«)king~;j^r7^TSi777FubI^ 

Then  we  orclered  the  engine  to  start,  and  had  a  really 


\  < 


i'     , 


nppiPfiPfwppiili 


430 


M'V  CANADIAN  JOURNAL. 


<rir.  XXI 


lovely  "  drive  "  to  Campbelltown.     The  junction  of  the 
MetapecJiac  and  the   Restigouche  is  quite  beautiful,  and 
„  ail  the.  way  along  the  road  the  views  are  well  worth  com- 
ing to  see. 

At  Campbelltown  I),  and  I  walked  down  to  the  pier  ' 
and,  sitting  down   there,  ^^rjjoyed  the  views  and  the  sea 
air  till  our 'engine  had  turned  round,  when  we  got'"  on  ' 
board  "  again,  and  came  back  to  our  anchorage. 

When  the  sun  was  low,  we  resolved  to  give  the  salm- 
on another,  chance,  but  by  dinner-time  the  onlv  ning 
caught  was  a  small  grilse,  which  I),  got  just  before  din- 
ner, and  which  we  ate  at  once.  We  have  most  comfort- 
able bedrooms  in  the  car,  where  we  slept  after  we  ha<J 
sat  over  a, Splendid  camp  fire  outside. 

Friday,  j///.— The  morning  fishing  over,  we  set  our 
engine  g.img,  and  returned  to  Casaupscal  in  time  for  the 
eleven  o'clock  breakfast ;  and  very  hungry  we  were  for  it 
^  in  the  afternoon  every  one  set  to  work  again,  and  I) 
caught  one  28-pound  salmon,  and  hVed  one  26  While 
we  were  away  he  got  one  25  iK,unds.  so  he  has  been  the 
luckiest  of  the  party.  ,     '*      , 

After  dinner  no. less  than  seven  bonfires  were  lighted 
in  our  honor-^six  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  and 
one  nearer  ;o  us.  They  looked  very  bright  in  the 'dark 
night.  " 

Saturday,    ^///—Fishing    unlucky-lnothing    done    in 
the  morning;  and  at  three  we  left   in  our  special  train 
very  sorry  not  to  spend  a  feW  davs  more,  in  this  pleasant 
spot.  '       • 

In  about  two  houts  we  got  to  Rimouski,  where  there 
were  a  crowd  and  an  address.  We  drove  round  the  vil- 
lage, looked  into  a  college  and  a  convent,  and  returned 
to  our  car,  where  we  refreshed  our.selves  with  a  cup  of 
'Ti.  ■  .■  ^'.'.f''  T^:""  ""'^^  "'^'  ""^^^^'•^  ^^  had  anof  h..r 


iMliiitMiicaMaiSS,.^ 


CUi  XXI 


July  1878 


cnicouTtffr. 


quay,  where  we  found  our  own  boat  waiting  for  us      iJic 
.s  qu.te  lovely  :   the  hills  ..re  of  most  .curious  and  pictur- 
esque shapes,  and  I  should  think  it  a  charming  place  to 
spend  a  summer  in.     We  looked  mto  a  great  cave,  where 
a  party  of  Indians  were  burned,  by  their  enemies  lung'- 
ago-exchanged    greetings  with   Mrs.  Archibald  Camp'- 
bel,  «^ose  children  were  firing  a  salute  in  our  honor 
and  who  has  a  very  pretty  cottage  here,  and  then  got  on 
board ^w.th  the  cure,  a  M.  Sylvain,  and  some  other  visit- 
ors, who  went  over  the  DrunI,  and  then  left  us      We  re, 
ma.nedat  anchor  till  twelve,  and  then,  set   off  for  Ta- ' 
do  u  sac. 

^  Monday,  ^^We  started  u,,  the  Saguenay.  At  one 
we.began  to  f.sh.|^r  trout,  and  by  thrfte  had  caught  about 
seven  d5,2e.n  betv^een  us.  In  the  evening,  as  we  were 
anchored  we  gut  a  boat's  crew  to  row  round  us,  singmg 
the  Canadian  boat-songs.  ' 

Tuesday,  ^//J.-.Sir   I^Yedcrick   Graham    and   Fred'left 
us  at  Chicoutimi  (^here  we  arrived  earlv  in  the  morn-     ' 
nrg),  and  went  (hv  an  expedition  after  laml-locked  salm- 
on.    I  hey  will  camp. out   for  three  ..r   four  day-^) 
Gwen,  and  I  went  by  steamer  to  HaJIa  IJav   and  ' 

getting  mto  a  buggy,  drove  to  the*A-Mas  Riv,' 
capital  sport  here  wit'h  two  good  salmon,  and  v 
watclnng  him^-ind  looking  at  the  salmon  jumi 
leap.  ' 

We  returned  to  the /^/v//,/,  dined,  and  sa 
In  the  night  wt^  started  again,  and  arrived  at 
in  the  morning.  1 

ll'olnesday,  /oM.—Went  over  our  empty  h* 
away  our  blankets,  but  left  all  our'nice  furni 
shut  It  up^th^.-  last  time,  I  suppose,  we  shall 
place.     I  hate  these  good-bys. 


and  th^e, 
•er.      I),  had 
we  enjoyed 
iping  ii|)  the' 


ev 


Kiiss€ll-otu|>lieiisMpr;innrTm--T^oar3ri^ 
for  Quebec.    .Unfortunately,  the  day  was  v 


we  starter 
ery  wet  and 


iJS=,S>^isS3,£!lS^^^ 


i  t. 


i^«. 


»  If^-*" 


43^' 


M  y  CA  A' A  t>IAX  JOURA'A  L. 


M^fl^  ' 


CH.  xxi 


cJisa^rreeable;  hut  the  rain  will  put  out  the  hush  fires 
which  are  verj  had  just  nuw  at  ihree  Rivers. .  The  Mont- 
real boat  actually  had  to  turn  back  on  account  of  the 
smoke.  . 

Thursday,  ////,._(;„t  to  Quebec  early,  anff  came  up 
to  breakfast  at  the  Citadel.  I  suppose  we  shall  not 
a^nun  spend  a  ni^riu  in  the  dear  old  J),uiJ..  In  the  even- 
ing' we  got  a  telcK^ram  from  Sir  K.  '1-hornton  (Washing- 
ton), to  say  that  two  thousand  roughs  had  left  Buffalo 
and  gone  to  Montreal  to  "  help  "  on  the  i2tii. 

Friday,  /.'///.—(Ireat  anxiety  felt  in  the  morning  as 
to  what  would  happen  fn  Montneal.  Three  thousand 
troops  are  there,  and  the  Mayor  has  two  hundred  special 
constables. 

At  eleven  fhe  (Jeneral-telegraphed,  "There  will  bene 
iwocession  '•;  ^nd  the  end  of  the  whole  thing  was  that 

^''^^^'^'■**''  '^lltei'"  "'^'  '^^f  ^'''i^h  declared  the  proces- 
sion 'fl^'j;;dj^  Pel  ,.d  the  tnaYshaJs  asithey  came  out  of 
the  Hall„^i^||^Q^,,[(,f  ^^^  peojjle  remained  shut  up 
the  wiiole  dajj^i'd  m  the  evening  were  conveved  home 
nrcabs.  ^  We  imffc  this  is  the  end  of  it.  - 

Sunday,  /yM.— Sir  Frederick  and  Fred  returned  from 
a   plea.sant   expedition,  but   unsuccessful  fishing.     They 
came  back  in  a  boat  full  of  Americans— forty-seven  of 
the   Maine    Press  Association^and    had    great    fun,  as 
,these   people   sang,   and   recited,  and   acted,  and   made 
speeches.     1'hey  were  all   in  church  this  morning,  anci    - 
we  asked  them  to  come  up  and  'See  the  Citadel  and  have 
tea.      It  was  rather  awful   when    they   first    arrived,  as 
.there  was  no  (me  to  introduce  them,  and  they  came  in 
two  and  three  together,  all  arm  in  arm.     However,  I  cgt 
It  short  by  going  and  shaking  hands  yvith  every  one," 
though  they  evident!/ did   not  consider  this  .an   intro-    ^l 
duction,  as  all  afternoon  they  kept^  re-introducing  me 
-oiie  to  trlw  v»therr— — .     .  -— —-  ^      


i^- 


L 


■'Tf 


Jt'i.v  1878 


QUEBEC. 


433 


I  hey  said  they  were  a  large  party,  "all  hiirmonious, 
'all  serene,  all  beiU  upon  having  a  good  time,  aH  ac- 
quainted since  childh.KHJ."  We  walked  about  the  plat- 
form,'and  they  were  much  pleased  when  they-fuund  they 
were  admitted  into  the  "  innt-r  circle,"  and  that  it  was  a 
private  spot.  They  greatly  appreciated  our  beaj^l 
view,  and  were  interested  in  all  we  showed  them.  sKi 
we  gave  them  tea  and  claret-cup,  which  thev  see.ne^o 
enjoy;  showed  the  Plains  of  .\braham,  and  then  returned 
to  the  Citadel  to  say  "  (nnxl-hy." 

Foi-ty-seven  people  shaking  hands  quickiv.  and  all 
saying  the  same  thing  in  a  different  form  :  •'  Thank  you 
for  delightful  entertainment";'"  Most  happy  to  have 
seen  you  "  ;  "  Such  a  lovely  time  "  -,  "  Wnxx  huspitaHtV*"  ; 
"  The  honor  "  ;  "  Hoi)e  to  see  vou  in  the  .States  *:'  •-  "  Will 
never  forget";  HN-ever  expected";  "The  fcaiure  .,f 
-our  tour,"  etc.  I  smiled  almo>^t  too  pleasantlv  over  t'his 
ceremony. 

'  In  the  morning  paper  I  see  that  "their  K.xcellencies 
received  the  parties  most  gracu.uslv,  and  were  (,uite  as 
free  from  restraint  as  themselves."  ()„e  man  told 
Fred  to  give  his  love  to  his  mother,  and  tell  her  she  had 
a  good  son. 

There  was  one  very  funny  litlfe  man  who  combed 
his  hair  in  the  drawing-room  when  he  came  in  •  but  I 
never  could  talk  to  him,  as  some  one  was  alwavs  being 
introduced  to  me  ■  \  -  *. 


Saturdii\\  20tfi. — We 


at  eight.     Directly  after  w 


were  up  curly,  and  breakfasted 


Graham    off  to    England.     Colonel  ^ndMrs.   I 
came  down  from  Ottawa,  andtt 


went  down  to   see  Sir    Y. 
Jittleton 


I  wa^ 


leir  children  sail  to-day. 


very   sorry  to.  say  good.by  to  them,  as 


other  break-up  of  our  life  h 


It  IS  an- 


ere. 


,^L„tvygiYe.  we  harJLa^xombmatiutt^  of  l>Ft!a].fa.t 


i.=»»*5^ 


1^ 


<^*' 


luncheon,  no  one  having  eaten  niuchthis  niorhing;  and 


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434  ^fy  CANADIAN  JOURXAL.  cir.  xxi 

afterwards  wc  wctit  over  to  tlie  Ca.np,  where  we  saw  a 
little  bit  (,f  a  fo.x-lu.nt,  and  the  gentlemen  olayed  lawn- 
tennis. 

The  Littletons  and  Mr.  Adams  (son  of  the  American 
Mnuster  ni  London  during  the  War),  with  a  friend  and  a 
young  Mr.  Potter  (son  of  an  English  M.  ]'.),  dined  with 
us.  Mrs.  Littleton  and  1  were  left  till  ,,,50  up-stairs 
ah.ne,  the  gentlemen  having  got  into  politics  down- 
stairs. 

Tucuhy,  .'.,V.-Mrs.  Littleton,  (Iwen,  IJaby,  and  I 
drove  out  to  Sillery,  where  the  nuns  received  us  most 
graciously,  and  then  we  went  on  to  the  Trie  es,  'I'hey 
iuive  a  lovely  place  on  the  St.  I,awrence,  with  some  fine 
trees  on  the  lawn  and  a  good  view  of  the  river  ;  there  are 
a  nice  old-fashioned  house  and  (lower-garden,  and  we 
liad  tea  with  strawberries  and  cream,  and  (lowers  to 
take  home.  I),  rode  there,  and  found  a  game  of  tennis 
going  on  when  he  arrived. 

Tui'Sihi\\jotli.—\).  remains  another  month,  at  the  rc- 
(lucst  of  the  Secretary  of  State. 

\Vi'J,n'Sihty,ji,t.~\\\^  made  up  our  minds  to  go  out 
for  tea.  so  at  four  we  drove  olf  to  Spencer  Wood,  where 
we  sat  on  the  grass  and  admired  the  view,  and  on  leav- 
ing were  presented  by  the  gardener  with  three  imucpiets 
one  for  each  lady.     'Ihe  Littletons  dined  with  us 

'I'lu'  papers  are  full  of  'Our  New  Covernor-Cen- 
t'ral."and  all  are  delighted  at  the  idea  of  having  a 
Royal  Princess  iiere. 

Momhy,  A„}^„st  stfi.—  W^x,  R„„,..,n  Catholic  ilishops 
of  the  Province  of  Quebec,  who  had  been  assisting  at 
the  consecration  of  the  Hishop.  called.  There  were  seven 
or  eight  of  them,  gorgeous  in  purple  and  gold  Tne 
new  Hishop  of  C'hi.'o.itimi  (Racine)  was  one  of  the 
nicest. 

\\'c  heard  of  the  death  of  the  Apostolic  !h.!,Mr.-Uc  I^'- 


L. 


cir.  XXI 


■vliere  we  saw  a 
(-■n  played  lawn- 

•f  the  American 

!i  a  fricml  ami  a 

I'.),  (lined  with 

11. 30  up-stairs 

politics  duwn- 

1,  liahy,  and  I 
ceived  us  most 
'  Trie  cs.  'I'liey 
with  some  fmc 
■iver ;  there  are 
(ardcn,  and  we 
111(1  (lowers  to 
yame  of  tennis 

'iith,  at  the  re- 

inds  to  );jo  out 
r  \\'ooiI.  where 
',  and  on  ieav- 
Iirce  l)on(juets, 
with  ns. 
iovernor-Cicn- 
of   havinjr  a 

lliolic  Bishops 
ill  assist injj;  at 
ere  were  seven 
id  K'old,  The 
s   one   of   the 


I).. I 


AUG.  1878 


ISLAXD   Of-  ORLEAXS. 


('on 


I 


roy,  I?ishop„f  Arda^di.     He  died  in  X 


am  very  sorry,  as  he  was  al 


ewf 


435 

otindland. 


and  never  seemed  to  he  1 


ways  lonj,rinjr  to  jr^t  | 


Kmu', 


cuts  are  alive,  and  will  feel  his  deati 


with 


Tu,-s,/,n,  6//i.~.'r,n   luhvard    'i 


iai)py  over  here.     H 
1  terriblv. 


is  old  par- 


iis.  and  It  rained— ponrcd  in  t 


iiornton    came  to  stay 


ever,  when   in   the  afteri 
went  out  and  sh 


ro|)ical  stvle.     Ho* 


""11   it  chan^a'd  to  drizzh 
owed  the  town  to  .Si,-  Kdward.     A 


we   went   on   hoard    the   DnaJ.  and  duicd  tl 
were  en>,rajre(i  to  attenil 


we 

t  six 


icre,  as  we 


ance  on  the  Island  of  Orl 


an  amateur  theatrical  perfor 


m- 


have  been  cl 


cans. 


larmin-r  i,ail   th 


course  the  rain   spoiled  our  pi 


'l"lu'  e.\|)editi(.n   would 
e  weather  heen  fine,  hut  of 


part  of  it.     \\ 
what    had   heen 


easure  in  all  the  yachtinj; 


anded  at  ei;;ht  o'clock,  and  d 
X  carpenter's  shop,  hut 


verted  into  a  "  Theatre  Roval  "•  tl 


rove  up  to 
was  now  con- 


;  tile  "  jrixen-rooin 


a  tent,  and  the  porch,  in  which  the  band  stood 
of  taroniilin 


dl 


;irpaulin 

I   rushed  throuj^h  th 


was 

was  made 


(lied  up  ni  waterproofs  and    i 


is  as  one  does  whe 


sudd 
th 


enly  founil  myself,  as  I   th 


s  makin>4  for 


e  presence  of  an  aiuHence.     I 


'ii«lit, 


11  one  is  bun- 
:i  slu'ltiT,  and 


M'""  the  staj^e,  ii 


and  handed 


i>ut  n)y   wraps,  allowed   the  ( 


jiiickly  step|)ed   back. 


era!  to  precede  me.  and  made  a  proper  and  f 


trance 


•overnor-den- 


ormal  en- 


but  th 


Tlien  r   founil   that   it 


It   ill  front  of  the  sta«e  tl 


was  the  Mieatre  I   had  ent.n  I 


K'e  there  were  banks  of  il 


ers.  two  little  arbors   in  the  corners,  an.l   seven  I 
dressed  m  powder  and    Dolly   \-arden  .-ostumes 
111  t  thmk   how  pretty  they  looked.     'Ih 


u\s  - 

IjsMires 
\'ou 


spread  with  refreshments  in  the  arl 
ese  Dresden  fi>rures  ready  t 


th 


in  f 


ere  were  tal)les 

)ors,  and  liehind  stood 

0  serve  us;  ami  on  stools 


ront  were  four  children— two  little  jrjrls  in  cad 


ner — also  In  costunu 


tl  cor- 


Wi 


icii  we  had  stood  for  "God 


save  the  Queen,"  and 


43^^ 


MY  C.IXAD/A.V  JOURXAL. 


CII.  XXI 


had  seated  ourselves  in  the  armchairs  prepared,  a  little 
powdered,  cliina-lookiny;  j,nrl  came  and  handed  me  a 
heaiitifnl  boiuiuet,  and  then  another  came  with  a  painted 
pr()j,^ramme,  and  between  the  scenes  the  j^rown-up  China 
brought  us  ices,  cake,  and  claret-cup.  The  room  itself 
was  hunj,r  witii  llao;s,  or  rather  lined  with  flags.  The 
play  was  "She  Stoops  to  Concpier,"  and  it  went  olf 
very  well.  The  Tony  Lumpkin  was  admirable,  and 
the  prima  donna  was  very  handsome,  and  acted  very 
well.  She  is  a  Mrs.  Watson,  and  she  had  arranged 
the  whole  thing.  'I'he  small  figures  got  very  sleepy  and 
tired  l)efore  the  end;  but  they  atided  greatly  to  the 
general  effect,  and  amused  us  a  good  deal  by  the  natural 
way  in  which  they  admired  their  own  finery,  and  ex- 
amined even  the  soles  of  their  feet  and  their  colored 
heels. 

We  went  to  the  hotel  afterwards,  where  we  were 
given  supper;  so  that  by  the  time  we  got  to  the  Citadel 
It  was  nearly  two. 

W'cdiicsdaw  ytli. — Actually  fine  weatiier !  so  at  eleven 
we  went  on  board  the  nniid,  a  party  of  fourteen,  and 
sailed   for  the    Montmorency    l-'alls.     Th  ere  full  of 

water,  and  were  looking  lovely.     We  1  1   in  i)',)ats, 

and  our  jiarty  divided  when  we  got  ashv)re.  Some  went 
one  side  of  the  I'"all,  some  the  other,  aiul  some  sat  down 
and  sketched.  1  went  to  the  left,  and  hiid  a  vcrv  line 
view;  but  we  got  so  wet  with  the  sjiray  that  we  soon 
iiad  to  move.  'I'he  workmen  there  (lumbermen)  would 
keep  l)udding  nie  uj)  substantial  thrones  in  the  very 
wettest  places,  and  I  alt  obliged  to  try  each  one  for  a 
few  minutes  ;  then  we  went  off  to  see  the  saw-mills,  and 
were  weighed  there.  .About  three  o'clock,  having  thor- 
oughly enjoyed  the  sight  of  the  beautiful  Kail,  we  went 
on  board  again,  A  different  but  very  acceptable  sight 
was  the  deck,  where  h.mch.eo!!  was  spread ;  wt-  were  all 


'-  CH.  XXI 

repared,  a  little 
I  luiiuied  me  a 
e  with  a  painted 
;r()\vn-iip  C'iiiiia 
riic  room  itself 
itii  llaj^^s.  The 
11(1  it  went  off 
athnirable,  and 
iiul  acted  very 
had  arranged 
k'ery  sleepy  and 
greatly  to  the 
I  by  the  natural 
linery,  and  e.\- 
d  their  colored 

liere    we   were 
.  to  the  Citadel 

r  I  so  at  eleven 

fourteen,  and 

■       ere  full  of 

1   in  boats, 

e.     Some  went 

some  sat  down 

had  a  very  fine 

that  we  soon 

bermen)  would 

s   in    the  very 

each  one  for  a 

saw-mills,  and 

k,  having  thor- 

Kall,  we  went 

coptable  sight 

I ;  w'-  were  all 


AUG,  1878 


CIIAUDILRE  FALLS. 


437 


so  h 


ungry. 


O 


ur 


C.'s,  the   Littleton 
M 


party  consisted  of  ourselves  and  A.  1 ). 


s,   Stephensons,    Hcrv 


evs. 


Jud 


(I  *> 


iss  Johnston,  Colonel  Montizambert,  the  Spanish  C 


and 


sul,  and  Sir  V..   I'hornt 


on- 


on. 


T/iursihiy,  ci'///.— Mrs.  I,itt 


a  steam-launch,  so  sh 


eton  was  offered  the  use  of 


to 


go  on  an  expedition  with  h 


e  came  uj)  early,  and  invited  us  all 


)rmg  the  tea,  and  that  we  should 


er,  arranging  that  !  should 


diere  Falls.     So  after  li 
—Sir    K.  Smvth  and  h 


go  and  see  the  Chau- 


and    M.  Chauv 


inch  we  assembled  at  th.e  dock 
is  son,  the  Littletons,  ourselves 


eau 


lice-boat),  who,  it  turned  out 
W 


Iso  the   police-officer  (it    was   tl 


lie 


was  reallv  the  host. 


fright, 


puffed    along  cpiickly,  and    just    had  one    litth 


when  the  funnel   tumbled  d 


thought  the  boiler  wa 


lown,  and  of  course   I 


s  going  to  burs'  ;  h 


soon  put  up  again,  and  we  i 
safety. 

We  had  to  get  out  and 
in  a  scow;  but  we  f-^nind 


owever,   it  was 


eacheil  our  destinatioi 


1   m 


cross 


th 


far  off  the  waterfall 


e  river  (Chaudiere) 
everybody    ignorant  as  to  how 


mile 


s,  and  we  trudged  off  t 


was  ;   some  one   told  us  it 


was  two 


are  not  fond  of  walking 


o  walk  there.      People  here 


?.  so  at  the  .same  t 


were  sent  to  look  for 

for  when  we  had  gone  t 

a  cottage  how  far  it  was  to  the  waterf 

told  "  three  mil 


line  messengers 


)uggies;  anil   very  lucky  this  waj 
wo  miles  in  the  rain,  we  askeil  at 


111,  and  we  were 


es  more 


our  carriages  soon  overtook  us,  and  I),  d 


a  Jniggy,  followed  by  all  the  oth 
We  had  one  collision  :  going  d 
behind   u 
our    wheel;    bot 


rove  me  1:1 
ers  in  various  maciiines. 
"wii  a  hill,  th 


s  came  too  fast,  and  the  h 


e  carriage 


orse's  leg  got   oxer 


n    animals    l)cing   extremelv   (piiet 
harm  was  done.     The  storm  cleared  awav,  and  whe' 


reached  the  Chaudiere  th 
beautiful  fall,  and  the  shapes  of  tl 
which  jut  out  into  the  f( 


no 

11  we 

e  view  was  lovely.     It  is  a  most 


lie     Slli-rriiiiwi 


rocks, 
>am   are  most  picturestpie.     We 


I 


438 


^/y  CANADIAX  JOVRXAL. 


CM.  XXI 

had  a  great  climb  to  reach  tlie  best  point  of  view  but 
when  we  got  ihqre  we  sat  directly  opposite  the  Fall  on 
a  promontory  of  rock,  and  were  able  to  admire  thor- 
oughly the  volumes  of  water  and  of  sprav,  and  the  rain- 
bows which  shone  through  them.  I),  made  a  sketch  and 
we  sat  Idle  and  enjoyed  ourselves  till  M.  Chau'veau 
called  us  to  have  the  champagne  with  which  he  had  re- 
placed my  tea. 

We  drove  back  to  the  scow,  and  crossed  over  to  the 
aunch,  which  took  us  to  Quebec  in  thirty-five  minutes 
It  was  8.30  when  we  got  there,  and  bv  the  evening  we 
were  all  extremely  tired. 

Monday,  72i/,.-\\^  started  at  (.ne  o'clock  upon  our 
tour  in  the  Eastern  T()wnshi|)s. 

After  crossing  the  river  in  the  steam-launch  (steered 
by  H.s  Ex.),  we  landed  at  Port  f.evi,  and  were  i)resented 
with  boucpiets  on  the  way  to  our  car.  It  is  a  (Irand 
Irunk  pri..aecar,  and  is  very  comfortable.  Our  first 
stop  was  at  Danville,  where  we  were  received  by  a  guard 
of  honor  and  a  crowd,  and  were  led  to  a  carriage  We 
got  out  at  the  Town  Hall,  had  an  address  and  a  bou<|uet 
and  were  introduced  to  a  few  people;  among  them  an 
old  lady,  who  said  my  father's  name  had  been  a  house- 
hold word  in  her  family. 

We  had  i.  drive  through  the  town,  which  was  prettily 
decorated,  and  saw  thousands  of  peoi)le  who  had  come 
in  from  the  country. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  station  I),  spoke  to  an  old 
Peninsular  War  soldier,  who  exhorted  him  to  "  go  and 
conrpier  Egypt,"  which,  he  .said,  "we  must  have." 

Having  spent  an  hour  at  Danville,  we  got  into  our 
car  again,  and  proceeded  to  Richmond.  A  platform  had 
liecn  erected  here,  and  an  address  was  presented,  signed 
by  eleven  Mayors.  After  being  introduced  to  .some  peo- 
ple, we  hud  lunch  in  the  .station,  and  then  dnrvc  about. 


AL. 


CIl.  XXI 


oint  of  view,  but 
'Site  the  Fall,  on 
'  to  admire  thor- 
ray,  and  the  rain- 
ade  a  sketch,  and 
ill  M.  C.'haiiveau 
vhich  he  had  re- 

ssed  over  to  the 

rty-five  minutes. 

the  evening  we 

''clock  uj)on  our 

i-launch  (steered 
1  were  presented 
It  is  a  Orand 
table.  Our  first 
.'ived  by  a  guard 
a  carriage.  We 
<  and  a  boueiuet, 
umong  them  an 
1  been  a  house- 

licli  was  prettily 
who  had  come 

poke  to  an  old 
lim  to  "go  and 
St  have." 
0  got  into  our 
A  platform  had 
csented,  signed 
■d  to  some  peo- 
il  drove  about. 


A'JG.  1878 


sherbrook'e. 


D.  had  four  horses,  but  I  d 
is  settled  out  here)  with  a  | 


rove  with  Lord  .\\\ 


\\ 


)air, 


439 
mer  (who 


e  visited  a  college,  and  saw  tl 


a  V 


eiL' 


ery  good   band  at   the  stat 


ht 


years  < 


.1(1. 


le  town.     The 
■on.  with   a   little  I 


re  was 


)OV    o 


most  grave  and  preoccupied  air. 


I"   iinilorni,  playing  the  cvmbal 


f 


s  with  a 


Sherbrooke  was    the    stat 


a  most  magnifuenl   reception   it 


i"ii  we   reached   ne.xt 


and 


whe 


n  we  arrived,  ami   from    the   rail 


«ave   us.     It  was  dark 


manufactories  and  hot 


pane. 
W 


els  with  lighted  candl 


way    ul'  saw    large 


cs  in   every 


hen   we    stopped    the    Receot 


on   board,  and   presented   Mrs.    I.ittl 


ption   Committee  ca 


me 


bouquets;   then  we  stepped 


bef( 


)re  us  a  line  guard  of  ii 


lantiv 


c-toii   and   me    with 

on   to  a   platform,  and  saw 

onor,  a  great  crowd,  a   brill- 


■■k^lited   building,  and  a  (pianlity  of  torch-b 


m  red  undorm  (the    Fire    Hrigade).      .After  th 

and  re|)lv  we  started 

th 


carers 


e  address 


ree  or  four  hundred  torciies  and  i 


m  a  carnagt-and-foiir,  escorted  by 


ing  of  soldiers),  to  drive  tl 


tifullv  i 


exceedingly  gratifvinu-  t 


irough  the  t 


a  crowd  (to  sav  noth- 


luminated  and  decorated,  and  th 


'\Mi.     Itwasbeai 


(General !     I 


«:  to  an  almost  defunct  { 


e  reception  was 


•overnor- 


arch 


■"list  trust  to  a  newspai)er  to  describe  th« 


es,    the    lights,   tJie   \ 


Jiises,  the  procession  shoot 


inoiis    devices   for  d 


rection,  for  I   have  not  t 


"hh:  lip  rockets  i 


Iccorating 


n  everv  di- 


must  mention  one  arch  dedicated 


Kut  I 

by  lad 

mounting  it,  with  "Welcome  t 


ime  to  enter  into  particul 


;irs.. 


les;  it  had  an  enor 


to  nic,  and  made 


side,  and  "  Kind  hearts   better    th 


mous  coronet  of  Ho 
o  our  ('ounte^ 


:ss 


wers,  sur- 
on  one 


other.     One  arch  wa 
and  was  very  prettv 


:in  coronets"  on   the 


s  an  imitation  of  a  (;othic  arch 


way, 


We  drove,  with  the  crowd  and  the  torches 
tng  us.  to  Mr.  Urooks's  gate,  where  they  left  u 


surround- 


W 


e  are  staying  with  .Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brooks.     H 


29 


c  is  an 


t 


?i 


'il 


Iff 


i  ■; 


440 


AfV  CANADIAN  JOURXAL. 


CH, XXI 


the,  have  a  very  n,ce  house  and  pretty  grounds      The 
house  >s  new.  and   had  not  yet   been  papered;  but  Mrs 
Hrooks  has  ornamented  her  walls  in  a  very  eff  ctive  wav 
by  P.nn.ng  dried  ferns  and  leaves  upon  theL.     ()  e tZ 
room  w.th  a  polished  floor  had  our  monograms  p   r t r  ', 
^l-;nft.es  of  flowers,  and  a   welcome  it   rhvm'     on   its 

We  had  had  supper,  and  went  to  bed  soon  after 

lucsday,  /jM.-The  sun  shone  brilliantly  at  break- 
fast-time;  ra.n  poured  from  ten  till  four,  all  the  time  we 
were  out;  and  then  it  was  beautifully  Hne  the  rest  of  tie 
evennig.  "^ 

We  drove  into  SherI,rooke  early,  and  visited  first  a 
fine  new  bank,   just    built;  we  admired  especially     he 
burglar-proof  safe,  with  a  lock  which,  when  Lt  to  a  pa 
cu  ar  hour,  can  be  opened  by  neither  friend  nor  foe  un- 

aw  thesTli";'""     ''"'',  ' ''  "^'^"'  ''''  '"''  ^^^-^'"". 

ten  0^:7;;""  "''"''  '■■  "^^^■'"^^••>''  ^'"d  ^he  horse 
step  out.  and  fall  into  their  own   places  in   the  various 

fire  engines      After  this  we  went  to  a  convent,  whe  e 
there  were  a  little  singing  and  an  address  ;  and  to  a  gre 

fine  cloth      I,  '"  ^'"  "''"^"  '''''''  -"---^-l  into 

hne  cloth.     I),  was  presented  with  the  material  for  a  pair 

After  seeing  everything,  D.  made  a  speech  to  the 
operatives,  and  we  proceeded  to  I^ennox ville  In  t  .e  v  N 
la^e  there  were  an  address,  a  platform,  and  the  i^u  I 
etceteras  and  at  the  College  and  Schoo  the  me  1 
js  one  of  the  best  English  schools  in  Canada,  bTt  the 
boys  were  away  for  the  holidavs.  Two  rivers  mss  bv  it 
am.  the  country  round  is  real' country,  aiur^e  "  .'  tv' 
We  had  about  four  miles  to  drive  back  to  theliuse  of 


AtTc.  1878  THE  EASTEI^A;    TOWXSHirs. 

n.f.cc,u  rapid  and  sp,.,„„d  .,;,;•',„,;:/'"""•■ 
m=nya„rca,  KnglisI,  landlmkler  would  t-'vehw 
to  possess  i„  his  park  Mr  ami  T  u  ,  '"""'"^ 
-"ch,  and  showed  us  ,he  pLx  ,uT,  r""7  '^'"■'''  '" 
*-,p.  My  petticoat  was  w  t  and  n„  K  "V  ''"  "'^^^ 
summery  «ow„  wasou.  of  ptace     b"    i    »  ",'-'  "■'•' 

<"..  A.  „.  C's  unlined  suit  ,!,  t  s;or  ,i,l  ""Th;."  ""*•'  '" 
bejran  to  look  very  limp  and  stickv  a,'  I  ,,  ^  """"■' 
time  I  looked  at  him  '  '•''"=''  """"y 

youn,  ladies  c.in,  i„.     The  dau.ht         f     .e  h^u  e"a 

nice,  pretty  ^nrl,  is  M„t  „ut  yet  '  ^ 

F).  and  the  Colonel  have  to  spend  the  ni«ht  in   the 

a.".      I  hey   meet   Mr.    Macken^ie*  at    Riehnu.nd       o 

business  i,etween  the  hours  of  twelve  and  tuo,  .u  d 

turn  here  for  breakfast  in  the  morninjr  '       ^  ' 

/^vW,,v,  v//._Hed.time.     I  seize   a  few  minutes 
to  try  and  de.crihe  the  doings  of  a  verv  pleasant  dv 
The  weather  was  perfect,  and  we  I.egan  the  mor  in  '  1  y 
be,n,.  photo,.raphed  in,. roups  at  the  door  of  Mr.  i  i  -^ 
^ouse ;  then  I  planted  a  tree 

VVe  were  to  have  left  l>y  train  at  ten  oVl,>c-k,  hut  the 
e.raph    ad  broken  down,  and  the  necessarv  a^su  L    e 
that     the  hne  ,s  clear  "  could  not  be  obtained       At  hst 
tbey  managed  in  some  roundabout  way  to  get"  the  n  e 


i.| 


■The  I' 


rcmier. 


442 


MY  CANADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XXI 


MfMur'av'  ^"'  ""  '"  '""  "  '""'"  ""  ^^^^^^-t  to 

We  went  for  about  half  an  hour  in   the  train  to  his 

house  on  Mas.snv.ppi  Lake.     He  has  only  just  bui  t    t 

-t  already  it   is  surrounded   by  Unvns  and'  llo J   r   .;. 

dens,  and  has  from  its  windows  a  beautiful  v.ew  of  Uie 

Mr.  Murray  introduced   us  to  his  wife  and  children 

came  to  Sherbrooke,  enjoy-.ng  in„nensely  the  view  of  the 
Lake  and  of  the  well-w,  oded  countrv 

house  before  we  .set  off  again  to  drive  to  C.mpton      1) 
and  I   and   Fred  ^Vard  were  in  a  verv  nice  ^^   t 
others    ollow.ng  in  t.-o  more  vehicles.  '  U  .  drov^  n/t 

At  the  village  of  Compton   there  were  both    English 
and  trench    addresses,   and   I),    replied    to  both       Mr 
Cochrane  met    us   with  a   drag   and    four  horse        He 
I'ves  two   miles  from   the   viUa-e   and  h-.. -.  i    .? 

f'lPMi       H«  ;  1-    ,  ^"'''^f,  anu  Has  a  wonderfu 

farm.     He  >s  one  of  those  people  who  get  a  thousnnd 
pounds  for  a  calf,  a  hundred  pounds  for  a  pig  et, 

Ihe  house  and   farm-buildings  look  so  colnfortable 
and   there    .s   a  n.ce   conservatory,   flower-garden    and 
tenn.s-ground  in  front  .f  the  house.     We  arr  ved  abo 
seven    o-cU>ck,    and    after    being    introduced      o    M 
Cochrane,  went  up  to  dress.     There  were  eight  en  peo: 
pie  at  dmner,  and   we   sat   out   on   the   veranda  a    er 
ward,  the  grounds  being  illuminated  with  ^^^, 

\ye  have  very  comfortable  rooms,  and  Mr.  Cochrane 
h       taken  n.  our  whole  party.     Mr.  and  Mrs.   B  o  k 
dn.ed  here,  and  we  said  good-by  to  them  afterwards 


AUO.  1878 


STAXSTEAD. 


443 


about  .he  neld,  ,„„,.,„  „  cln^      ':;:;""" 
I  here  is  a  cow   li.^re  ,-.11    1    ■,■         '""  '^"^tlaiul   ponies. 

whicM..  „,..:;::  :;r  ,.;;;•;'-.,,..»„, ...,,, 

the  country  are  ouit,.   ,„■       t  "        ^ ''^  ^''^^^-s  over 

vina;:;^,;:;;^,,:^.!::;:;:': ;:':  -  ^  ;■-  -  ^ 

lected  to  meet  i„      l,  i  '  *- "'"  """''  ^acl  e„l- 

a..U  was  vet,  i;:,,,  I    ;  ;.:-;:-■■'.;  ^'--U  vi„a,, 
the  addresses  „„  ,„  ,.,,.'"  '  ""■  ''''"'  "'"<^^»-     --^fter 

walked    .„  ,heM      ,    ■rf""""";""""'"'  >"•"'-"•  - 
tea    „ef..e  ,.r,vi  ^^  I,""";,';'  "^-  -;  '-<  a  e„„  .f 

lighted  up.  "'"   *■'""''■".   "I'i'-h    was 

■■c.tM;;^'t7,^7.'•;"''" ';'-^'-^^'' '-■^■•'--ai'- 

married  daug    er  (Mrs  ""t'   ""  '■''''"■■'•"•  ""'<  "" 

'-"  ti.e  gall  ,r,  ■';;"?*• "" """  "■"■  i""^- "- 
i-utiruietuntr  .1';; ;?"",,  r;:; ";,;;;;"  ■-  ".-.'h 

village,  where  we  iv.rl  ,        ,"''tle>_a  nice  little 

to  Stans.ead  ""■"'  """  ""^  "^"="  ''<™'rs- 

«ot  "the::  iri:';M''m.i"?T  "'^' '-''■='"- -e 

a  little  o,„  „f         '  :,,  '         ""^'■-  ■•■"".  ""<-^-  we  we„t 
Mo..n,ains,„„„d,     „;/;;'    I'',."  ''I"--'^'^'"'-  '"-   view. 

--ned  ,„  make  J,,  T ,:;:;;    '"rs:.::;-;"";^'"^" '» 


Iff  here.    Mr.  Clolh 


US,  and  drove  before 


V.  th 


e  member  for  .Sta 


us  into  the  towi 


iislead,  met 


ii 


At  its  entrance 


444 


My  CAXADIAN  JOUHNAL. 


CH.  XXI 

we  found  a  large  corps  Of  firemen,  some  in  blue   some  in 
ed,awa,t,n,.us,ancl  the  foremost  presented         wki    a 
1  arp  .nade  of  water-lilies  from  the   ladies   of  the  place 
Ihen  the  firemen  and  their  band  marched  before  u     and 
we  kept  slowly  behind  them,  my  team  behavi^'adm  ra 
bly,  considermg  all  things  ^  aumira- 

extreme  of  the  fash.on^splendid  m  silks  of  blue  and 
ol.ve-green,  red  and  pink,  etc.,  and  waving  in  each  hand 
^^^f^^uT"^'';  ''^'  --  Ameri'.ns,:.:i;^ 

;2;e:ted;;'^^^'^^  -'  -  '''-'■  ^^-^'-^  -"^'^^  -- 

l.ve'lnirthf  "  ^"''  .""  ""  '""'"'  '''''  ^'^^^  Americans 
■V  e  half  the  year  m  Canada  and  half  in  the  States      We 

undK-d  w.th  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  Pierce,  and  the  beautifu 
Kd.es  came  over  to  h...  house  here,  and  the  Governor  of 
Wmont  Mr.  Fairbanks)  met   us.     Mrs.  Fairbanks    ad 
sen    me  a  bouquet.     They  were  five  widows,  all  sisters 
or  daughters  of  his. 

whe.e  there  were  two  addresses.     I),  having  replied   and 
havmg  ha    a  little  joke,  which  was  h.ghl^ap  reclkted 
o^cr  the  American    Protection   laws,  made  the   people 

tZ  'Jr/'^'^'^^''  ^'  ''-'  United  States  and  thi  G     ! 
ernor  of  v  ermont. 

We  shook  hands  with  a  number  of  people  afterwards, 
and  then  got  mto  three  buggies  and  drove  twelve  miles 
more  to  Georgeville,  up  and  down  mountain.s,  to  Lake 
Memphremagog,  where  Sir  Hugh  Allan's  steamer  met 
us;  and  m  her  we  spent  an  hour  and  a  half  going  to 
Magog,  where  I  now  am,  and  where  we  arrived  about  ten 
o  Clock.     W  e  were  drawn  a  mile  up  to  the  hotel  bv  hov« 


^vn.  1978  z^A-^  ^^f£^Vi>//J?£.UAGOG 

445 
and  sold.ers   replied  to  two  addresses,  admired  the  illu 
m.nat.on   o     every  window,  and  were  too  „u.!h  t.ed  to 
eat  the  good  food  provided  for  us 

We  said  "(iooj-by-  to  Mr.  Cochrane  at  Stanstead 
Our  visit  to  h.m  was  extremelv  pleasant  ^'^"•^^^'^^• 

^^W.-    Safun/^n,   /7//..-(),r  hotel' is  an   ordinarv 
country  inn,  and   the  view  from  the  windo^is  no"  re 

r  Su  ';r;;:'  ^'^'i ']  ^"^  ^-"^  ^^^  those-wL  :w 

Hn.h       ;  '■  T'^^'^'  ''-^'^'^  '^'''^'  ^■^"'•>'  fi»e  views.     Sir 

Hugh  A, an  came  for  us  at  ten,  and  we  steamed  up  the 
lake  in  h-s  yacht   seeimr  iii  u,  .  i  ' 

magog.  ^  '"-  ^"^"^'"'^  '^f  Memphre- 

The  two  ends  of  the  lake  are  uninteresting,  but  there 
IS  a  fine  mountain  in  the  center,  called  the  (tr    He  .d 
and  some  of  the  scenery  about  there  is  beau    f  ,1      1' 
Hugh  s  own  place  is  perfect  ;   it  is  almost  <      an  it), 'j 
Ihe  house  is  placed  on  the  top  of  -,  hjM,  h  li 

-ooth  g.ss  slope  up  to  it  is  pL^ed  wl;  U^^ 

Ihe  forests  of  wood  on  either  sir!*,   tu     . 

church,  and  were  nrearh.vl  t„  J  ,         •     "''^^^"^to 

He,.heHi.,„;::;t:HX::47;;;:\f^ 

They  br„t,gl,t  „s  ,|,e  photographs  taken  of  the  frroun 


jr  my  Canadian  collect 


ion.     After  d 


inner 


446 


My  CAXAD/AX  JOUKXAL. 


CH.  XXI 

we  spoke  to  some  of  the  people  staying  in  the  hotel  who 
had  helped  to  decorate  it  for  us 

J/War   /^//,  _We  left   Magog  by  train  for  Bolton 
w  ere  Mr.  Huntu.gton  has  a  country  place.     The  v i'v' 

>e  has  fne  akes  .vthn,  three  miles,  one  does  not  catch 
a  glimpse  of  them  from  the  vvin.h.ws. 

An  address  was  presented  l,y  the  neighbors,  while  -i 
very  smartly  dressed  ban.l  plavcd  to  us 

In  the  drawing-room  was  a  very  handsome  decora- 
t.on-the  arms  of  Kngland  n,ade  in  flowers.     M,-s   H    ^ 

J"Rton   IS  very  nice,  and  she  iKul   four  .American' vog 
lad.es  staymg  with  her.     U  e  had  a  verv  pleasant    u 

and  soon  a.ter  continued  our  journev  to  Waterloo 

'''r->-'--f^'i  what  these  small  towns  do  to  welcome 
.s.     ^^^'^-om^'toa  place  of  4.000  inhabitants,  and  (Ind 
regiments  turned  <,ut.  bands,  arch  after  arch     ,1-.    „ 

erected.  Ilagsaiul  all   the  country  collected  J^^^^ 
Waterloo  really  gave  a  very  Hne  reception.     The  plat- 

orm  was  well-made  and  c..nvenient,  L  ^ 
and   I    but   the  whole  .Staff,  were  presented  with  bou 
;i-ts  In-  little  girls  dressed  in  while.     Thence!         ^ 
sp  -echcs.  and  such  cheers  !     The  village  has  an   KnglisI 

.nha,tantwh<.  prides  himself  upon  his  M.urrah,-':^ 
\Mi<>  led  the  applause. 

\\V  drove  round  the  town  in  a  procession,  and  I  am 
surel),         ,,        ,,,,^.,,„^,,^^^ 

""  y  aivhes  !     Here  are  some  of  them  ;     -  \-„tre  seiou 
;■-'     anada  fournira  une  1^ 

Hiuueiuie   la  compagne  de  celui  <|ui  a  compiis  notre 

affection"     "  To  Canada's  favorite   Ruler."     .'Farewell 

<.hnn.-I,o  has  won, he  hearts  of  all  Canadians."     ••  -^ 

vnnte  of  the  people."     ■•Canada's    Pride."     "  II  est  la 

«lc..re    du    Canada."      ••  Prudence.     Energy.    Chari  y " 


^^-  CH.  XXI 

J  in  the  hotel  who 

train  for  TJolton, 
')la{:c.  'I'lie  view 
*ama  of  mountain 
•it,  for,  altiioiij^li 
t'  does  not  catch 

ei^iilxTs,  while  a 

iiHisome  (lecora- 
tTs.     Mrs.  Mimt- 
American  voiniir 
•  pleasant  linich, 
'  Waterloo. 
IS  do  to  welcome 
>itants,  and  luul 
•irch,  platforms 
'ted  to  meet  us. 
;i"ii.     The  plat- 
id  not   only  I). 
nted  with   hou- 
I'hcn  there  were 
has  an   Kn)i>iish 
"  Hurrah,"  and 

'>*'<'n.  and  I  am 
d   the  mottoes 

"  \'()tre  sejour 
otre  histoire," 

con(|nis  notre 
."  "Farewell 
idians,"  "  I'u- 
."  "II  est  la 
Sy,    Charity." 


Aeo.  1978  r//£  £^S7V:A'X    Toirxs/f/rs 

447 
"  Eternal  sunshine  settle  on  his  head  "      •  If,,  i    ..        ,  . 

»e  <l„u.,l  a,ul  sl,.|„  i„  „„r  |„|„ia|  ,,r.  ami  a  ,„  mm, 

;e  .,.»•„,  I„u    ,   «,   „„   ,„.  ,,a.,„r,„  a,ul  .  , 

cn,,™„„sl,„a,,„l,,,rni,,«i,,,,,,,,,,,dl.,,f,,,es  . 

vn/:n,r;:;r  •"■?'■'""' '"^'^^^ >••  ■'■'--'".». 

\n\   small   place,  where  a  wonderfullv  nr.Mv  ,- 
was  nrcn-.r,.,i       'i-i  'ti'iiiiv    pritl\    leception 

y-  prepared        I|,ere   .s  a   line   Town-Hall,   which   w.s 
1-orated  w,th    .lowers.      ,n    front    of    ,he     ta-e        " 

^e^u-pofnowers,wh:        we  afterwanis  p^J     ;:; 
the  end   of  ou,  t,,,,„   .„  ,,^.  ^  >' 

-^- a  Ion,  speech  here  nU.:n.,.h.  and  :lho  tor: 
I-rench.and   then   we  drove   round   the  viila.a.  .nd    u 
mired  its  dec-.u-ations       Th,-    ,,.,-1, 
shapes.  "'^  -"^  f>-  were  o,  very  pretty 

He  s|>e.,ks  ex  lem|,„re,  an,l  |„.„|,le  m,  ,,,„, 

;,.'"''"  "•"  '""■  "exl  |,„i„l,  a,Hl  it  «as  ll,e  eiul  „f 

..ne   l,a,uls,„„e   s.ree.    was   wJ,MW  .leo.   ,         '    ' 
ever,.   wm„I.,w  wa,  .„„  „f   „„„,„,  ;,;  ^ „  '   '    ' 

^rove,,,  v,s„  a  l„„ul.„,u.  R,„„a„  (a,!,,,!,..  cl,„r,  1,    u  . 


M)e<:miensofthework.    The -iris  read 


Ifave  me  a  b(iU(|uet,     \\ 


me  an  aiklress  and 
e  also  saw  the  Kn^lish  Cluireh 


i 


W^mii^m^aasa^- 


448 


A/y  CANAD/AX  JOUKNAL, 


rH.  XXI 

and  the  old  barracks,  and  then  g<,t  into  onr  train,  and 
started  on  a  little  holiday  trip. 

We  stopped  at  Plattsbur^r.  ;vl,ieh  is  in  the  States,  and 
slept  on  board  the  Vermont,  a  ma^^nificent  steamer,  on 
Lake  Champlain. 

IVcJncuiay,  .v./._We  awoke  "  at  sea  "  on  Lake  ('ham- 
plam,  and  after  breakfast  sat  on  deck  and  enjoyed  the 
scenery  T.conderoga  is  reached  at  one,  and  we  in,- 
nied.ately  j(ot  into  a  train,  which  in  twenty  miniites  d.s- 
Roryedits  i)assenjrers  on  Lake  (Jeorge. 

This  is  a  smaller  and  a  very  lovely  lake  too;  but  I 
prefer  Lake  Champlain.  as  the  mountains  are  more  dis- 
tant than  they  are  at  Lake  (Jeorge,  where  the  hills  rise 
stra^du  rom  the  water.  All  alon,.  the  Lake  are  little 
hotels,  where  we  stopped  and  exchanged  travelers.     At 

Henrv     'a       "  '"^'''  "'"  "'""'  '''  ""^  ^'-tination,  Fort 
Henry.     As  soon  as  the  steamer  touched  there  was  a 

the  house       i  ley  had  gone  to  secure  the  outside  places 
-ya  nun.ber  of  coaches  which  stood  there,  and  we      al 
going  on  to  C.len  Falls  and  .Saratoga 

^^e  took   a  ,pnet  drive  in  a  carriage,  conducted  l,v  . 
coachman  who  has  held    his  office  for  f.,  r    ;;      lut 
who  .s  now  only  twelve  years  old.  and  ve^  s  ^      '   w 
^nc    a    te,,,,,     Such  dresses  !  and  sud.  hats  to 

v"  th       .  T,'""'"'*''  amused_in  a  melancholv  way 
-by  the   chMdren.     They    were  dressed   out    with  t   e 

nusim  and  lace  dresses,  the  best  of  .olored  silk  stock- 

n>.^s,  and  b....ts  with  large  bows  to  match  ;stK-hc  Is 
and  fans,  and  bracelets :  and.  ab,.ve  all.  su-hrr"i 
such  conscousness  of  deserving  admiration!     T     '"y 

;  '  I  ften  sat  alone  at  a  table,  the  girls  looking  twenty 
'"Hi  the  i,oys  rather  naughty  and  undisciplined      This 


AL. 


rn.  XXI 


to  our  train,  and 

11  the  States,  and 
cent  steamer,  on 

"  on  LakeCham- 
iiul  enjoyed  tlie 
)iK',  and  we  ini- 
nty  minutes  dis- 

lake  too;  hut  I 
IS  are  more  dis- 
'e  the  hills  rise 
■  Lake  are  little 
I   travelers.     At 
fstination.  Fort 
-il  there  was  a 
raced   towards 
'  outside  i)Iaees 
e,  and  were  all 

•oiidurted  by  a 
our  years,  hut 
L'ry  small.     \\q 
uch  hats  to  be 
lelancholy  way 
out    with  the 
ricent  silk  and 
red  silk  stock - 
h ;  such  curls, 
such   airs,  and 
>ii  !     Tile  way 
y   themselves, 
lokinjr  twenty 
'plitRHl.     This 


AUG.  1878 


lAA'E   CIlAAfPLAIN. 


youn-r  j,a-neration  I 


and 


110  object  but  d 


'vi'ijs^   its   hotel-life 


startling  phenomenon. 
\\'e  came  in  f, 


'■t-'ssmg  itself  and  1 


449 

with   no  duties 


1 


<'r  a   verv 


Ko/ 


my  lit 


<^'.  of  the  Italian  Opera,  lu 


'citiK'  admired, 


Rood   concert   whi,  |,    M 


IS  a 


irie 


•'1'1'cncd  to  be  giving  to- 


Thursday,  22ii.~\.i,h  the  h 


I^ake  Cieorge 


'••sited  the  old  Fort  bel 


^^^ain,  and  on  to  '1 


«'tel  early,  and  came  do 


icondcroga,  where 


wn 
we 


agam. 


"■•egomgon  board  the  /W, //.,,/ 


^\'c  had  another  pi 


plam,  and  got  on  t 

our  way  to  Montreal.     There'l  f 

for  which    1    have  1 

our  last  Canadian  ' 


pleasant  journey  down  Fake  CI 
o  our  car,  ni  which 


lam- 


«c  |)roceeded 


oui 


Safu/uA 


'ilW 


to  return  home  at 


-V//.— r  re 


>ecn   piniii^r   ;i|j  ^ 
official  •'  tour. 


'^'  >uy  Fnglish  lett 


on 


crs. 


ic  week.     So  end 


ed 


ccived  letters  which  obi 


"ic  to   have  to   1 
very  nn'serable. 


once.     It  is  a  great  d 


eave   I),  and  ( 


ige  me 
'^appointment  to 


W'en,  and  it   niad 


\v  us  all 


^''nJtiy,  jof/i.—\\ 


good-l 


telescope 


y  to  the  men,  and   t 


e  went   down  to   the    /;//,/,/ 


to 


present  the  Capt 


sav 


am  with  a 


'I'h 


e    improvement 


made  at  Otiebcc. 


s  which    I) 


nnd 


cl 


with  a  view  t 


suggested    should    I 


>e 


K'ltes,  its  picturcs(| 


o  preserving  its  old  walb 


liiracter,  have  been  I 


"«    appearance,  and  it 


promises  to  becon 


H'«:un.  and  the  "  Dufferin  'I 


world 


'^-  one  of    the  loveliest   walk 


s  ancient 


errace' 


in  tht 


•V.A///;v/,n-,  j/j/.—A   fi„..,i 


my  happy  Canadian   life;  and 


gOO(l-I)y    to    Ouel 


to  I),  and  (Jwen.     '|'| 


go(»d- 


H'c,  and  to 


!'•»">'  me,  an<|  to  fire  a  salute  i 


e   H   Mattery  turned 


i)V  also,  f 


.  'or  a  tune, 
out  to  accom- 


left  th 
I 


c  wharf  they  all  cheered  fr 


'■   'lie,  and  after  the  sh 


>ers  of  ncMiW 


^'"'■ly  in  the  nu 


I'!*'  'ame  dcmn  to  the  steame 


o'n  the  Citadel.     \u 


P 


m- 


'Hiing  that  I  left 


'■»  though  it  was 


(i 


450 


A/y  CANADIAX  JOURXAL. 


CH.  XXI 

In  one  c.f  his  farewell  speeches  in   Canada  D.  said : 

s<^e  v'^'J""'       "'  "'  ^"'"  '  ''-'''  •"'"^'-'  -^'^  vour 

e  t    1  m^se;"  '""  '"■''""■  ^'"'■^^  "^^  '^^'^'''"-'  inter- 
ested myself  in  your  afla.rs  and  business,  become  one  of 

you   u.  t   ought   and  feeling,  and   never  have   I    e c ^i  •  d 
at  your  hands,  whether  n.    my   ,n,blic  or  in  my  ^    a  ' 

;rnH  :"''"'"   '"   '^  ^'"^'•^^^    -nslderaU  r 
most   nuiuigent   sympathy,  and  the   warmest  welcome" 
1  h.s  be.ng  so  truly  the  case,  no  wonder   that  althcn.gl. 


AftcT  1    ..ft.  I),  received  a  deputation,  consisting  of  the  chief 
omce,    o,  ..  I  the  .nunicipaiities  of  Ontario,  who  canl  to  Qu     ec 
tc.  present  Imn  w.th  a  joint  address.     The  ceren.ony  took  place 
on  the  pi.u  .,r„,  at  .ho  Citadel,  and  the  deputations  arrived    pre 
ceded  by  three  Highland  pipers  <iressed  in  .he  tartans  of  t      r 
respecve  elans.     In  his   reply  to  them  he   spoke  much  of  the 
Prmcess  Louise  and   LonI   Lome,  and  said  .hat.  with  re^rard  to 
the  L.tter.  he  only  knew  of  one  fault-- of  one  conge.uial  defect 
wh.rh    attached    to    his    appointment   as  (;overnor-(-.eneral   of 
Cana<la-he   was   not  .ui    Irishman."      .Sever.,1  other  addresses 
were  presented  to  I).,  and   he  was  made  a  Doctor  of  the  I  iv  d 
Cniversitv.  "    ' 

La.<M-  he  went  to  Toronto  to  open  a  provincial  exhibition,  and 
whilst  there  he  visited  institutions  and  m;ide  a  number  of  speeches 
I'  was  at  this  time  that  he  suggested  in  a  letter  to  the  (iovernor 
'•r  New  ^ork  State  fh.it  the  Covernments  of  Canada  and  of  the 
I  nited  Stales  shoul.l  join  together  to  create  an  International  Park 

.>t   Ni.ig.ra:  that  the  troublesome  touts  .ind  stpiatters.  with  their 

»iu  eoiis  sh.-inties  and  wooden  huts. should  begot  rid  of;  and  that 
<  !'•  lo'...  itv  should  be  restored  to  its  pristine  condidon  of  wild 

l^^.-d  secluded  be.iuty,"     This  project  has  since  been  .arried  out. 

and   the  isl.inds  in  the  Ni.igara  River  have  been  called   after 


A'^Z. 


CH.  XXI 


n  Canada  D.  said  : 
mingled  with  your 
nd  pastimes,  inter- 
ess,  become  one  of 
t-T  have    I  received 
■  (»r  in  my  private 
consideration,    the 
armest   welcome." 
(icr   that  although 
>f  the  most  miser- 


1878 


LAST  DAYS. 


451 


johnMacc,ona,d„noct.;,er.^.:';;r;;::;;:r 

'-  sailed  fron,  Qu  h  '       .  VtT.'"'  7^"  ""  "'"'"'■^  ">"^ 

'ron.  thec.t.ensi„d  re.     ^ ^,        ^  ^"■^"'  ^  "-"  -'^-- 


insisting  of  the  chief 
iho  came  to  Quehec 
eremony  took  place 
I'alioris  arrived,  |)rc- 
Ihe  tartans  of  their 
spoke  much  of  the 
hat,  witii  regard  to 
le  congeiiiial  defect 
overnor-Ceneral  of 
ral  other  addresses 
Joctor  of  the  Laval 


icial  exhihition,  and 
uimher  of  speeches. 
LT  to  the  (Jovernor 
Canada  and  o(  the 

International  Park 
piatters.  with  their 
ot  lid  of;  and  that 
;  condition  of  wild 
e  l)een  carried  out, 

been  called   after 


•v-^ 


MU 


tv^ 


y 


|4>^H 


40U 


^\ 


»««p 


V(r«ahu 


80 


to«igitttd»vr«tt  90  of  Qr«w.wieli. 


MFW  Yi'WK,  1.'.   AI'l'MCTOM  3c  CV 


lOiigitMAB  vr^tt  90  of  Graanvieh.. 


A'  Y'  MvK.  1 '.  Ai'i  'ii-yroH  a- 


I  N  1)  E  X . 


Alaska,  287. 
Alert  Bay,  290. 
"Alexander  Camp,"  183. 
Alkali  I'lains,  26.5,  266,  317. 
Allendale,  172. 
A-Mas  River,  431. 
Andrew's  (St.),  355,  369. 
Anne  (St.),  Falls  at,  168. 
Anthony  (St.),  Falls,  ,^0. 
"Artemisian  Desert,"  263. 
Assiniboine  River,  ^v»6,  347. 
Assmaquaghan,  429. 

Baker,  Mount,  275. 

Baltimore,  223. 

Barrie,  172. 

Bedford  Hasin,  106. 

Belleville,  212. 

Bergeron,  12. 

Berlin,  198. 

Bersimis,  89. 

Bic,  426,  430. 

Birch  River,  378. 

Bolton,  446. 

Boniface  (St.),  .^g. 

Boston,  224,  423 ;  Bunker's  Hill,  224  ; 
Harvard  Collepe,  224,  422  ;  Dor- 
chester  Heights,  225 ;  Uplands, 

425- 
Bar,  298. 
Bow  I'ark,  202. 
Bowmanville,  210. 
Bracebriclge,  176. 
Brantford,  202,  199. 
Breton,  Cape,  104. 
Brockville,  214. 
Brute's  Mines,  179. 
Buckingham,  245,  247. 


1  Buffalo,  41. 
;  Burlin^;t(in,  260. 
I  Hurrard's  Inlet,  293. 
I  Bute  Inlet,  2.S1. 

I 

!  Cd'^he  Creek,  305. 

Cacouna,  10,  427. 

California,  268. 

Cainpbt'lltown,  430. 

Cap  Rouge,  36. 

Cariboo,  305. 

Carlelon  I'lace,  215. 

Casauiiscal,  426,  427. 

Catherine's  iSt. ',  205. 

Chaleur,  Bay  of,  99. 

Cliamplain,  Lake,  448,  449. 

Charlotte  Town,  lui. 

Chatham,  100,  194. 

Chaudiere  Falls,  6,  30,  153,  437. 
River,  437. 

Cheyenne,  262,  321. 

Chicago,  i8g,  259,  316,  398. 

Chicoulimi,  166,  431. 

Clair  (St.)  River,  195,  323,  398. 

Coaticook,  443. 

Coburg,  210,  258. 

Coliax,  267,  317. 

CoIlingwo(Ki,  178. 

Compton,  442. 

Couchiching  Lake,  173,  174. 

Cowansville,  447. 

Dalhousie  Bay,  99. 
Danville,  438. 
Dartmouth,  105,  114. 
River,  94  ;  "  Lady's  Steps"  rapids, 

95- 
Dawson,  route,  370. 


I 


454 

Hean's  Corner,  2;i5. 
Denver    ^21. 
Detroit,  19,,  jgg. 
Devil's  Gap,  179. 
Slide,  264. 


Echo  Canon,  264. 
Emerson,  345. 
Esquima'jit,  273,  279. 
Eternity  Ciiff,  165. 
Etienne  (St.),  13. 
Evanston,  263. 

Father  Point,  236. 
Fisher's  Landing;,  342,  398, 
Flattery,  Cape,  273. 
Fort  Alexander,  378. 
Garry,  346,  395. 
Henry,  44S. 
Huron,  19O. 
Simpson,  284. 
William,  185. 
Eraser  River,  294,  296,  306. 
Frodericton,  120. 
Fremont,  261. 
Fundy,  Bay  of,  115. 

Gait,  199. 

Garden  River,  180. 

Gaspe,  93,  156,  164,  250,  419. 

Ga:ineau    River,    144 ;    rapid? 

152 ;  saw-mills,  15;. 
George,  Lake,  448,  449. 
Georgeville,  444. 
Georgian  Fay,  279. 
Gimla,  382,  386, 
Godbout  River,  87. 
Godcrich,  197. 
Granby,  447. 
Grand  Falls,  121. 
Forks,  398. 
Island,  261. 
Gravenhurst,  175. 
Green  Mountains,  226, 
Grenville,  418. 
Guelph,  199. 


ArV  II XA DIAX  JO CRXAL. 


Gut  of  Canso,  10.3. 


fif'      fi 


Haha  Bay,  165,  431. 

Halifax,  105. 

Hamilton,  37. 

Harrisburg,  199. 

Hastings,  211. 

Hat  ley,  443. 

i  Jell's  Gate,  298. 

High  Bluffs,  394. 

Hocheiaga,  66. 

Hope,  296. 

Horn,  Cape,  rounding,  267. 

Houses,  394. 

"Hudson's  Bay  settlements,"  91.  180, 

3X4;  Fort,  180. 
Huron,  Lake,  187,  195. 

Indian   Reser\'e,    2a,,  358;  Mohawk 

Church,  200. 
Ingersoll,  203. 
International  Park,  450. 
Irvington,  221. 


Jacques  Cartier  River,  27. 
John  (St.),  115,  1,58,  422,447. 

River,  95,  119,  j2o. 
Jo.seph  (St.),  Lake,  24. 
Joseph,  Lake,  17O. 

Kamanistiqwa  River,  186. 

Kamloops,  303  ;  "  Powwow  "at,  303. 

Keewatin,  371. 

Killarney,  178. 

Kingston,  7,  171,  203,  398. 

Lachine  Rapids,  7,  95. 

Lake  of  the  Woods,  373, 

Laprairie,  7. 

Lawrence  (St.),  3,  •2..,,  rcS  v:^^  ^3^ 

Lennoxville,  4^  . 

Lievre  (Le),  R...,,  _^^  ;  rapids,  245. 

Fall,  246. 
"Little  Stone  Fort,"  356. 
London,    42,    43,    204  ;    "  Victoria 
Park,"  204. 


Ill 


INDEX. 


Louis  (St.),  322. 
Louisburg,  lo,^. 
Lytton,  299,  305. 

Mackinaw,  187. 
Maj,'og,  444,  445. 

River,  441. 
Manitoba,  396. 

Lr-.ke,  390. 
Manitoulin,  179. 
Marguerite    Kiver,    16;    rapids,    16; 

salmon  fishing,  18. 
Maritime  Provinces,  117. 
Massiwippi,  Lake,  442. 
McNab's  Island,  laS,  m. 
"Meech's  Lake,"  154. 
Mempliremagog,    Lake,   444;   Owl's 

Jlead,  445. 
Mennonite  settlement,  360. 
Metapediac  River,  426,  427. 
Metlacatlah,  283,  287. 
Michigan,  Lake,  187,  1S8,  259,  338. 
Michipicoten  Island,  180. 
Miller's  Landing,  251. 
Mingan  River,  96. 
Minneapolis,  339. 
Minnehaha  Falls,  340 ;  Fort,  ,340. 
Minnesota  River.  340.  I 

Miramichi  River,  loo.  I 

Mississippi  River.  260,  323,  340,  341. 
Missouri  River,  260,  322,  323. 
Mitchell,  197. 

Montmorency  Falls,  8,  123,  4-56. 
Montreal,   8,  59,  81,  226,  24,,  323, 

324,  402,  405,  415. 
Mount   Royal   Park,   406;    banquet, 

406. 
Muri  -'   Bay,  167. 

River,  168. 
Musknka  Bay,  175. 
Lake,  175. 

Nanaimo,  280 ;  coal-mine,  280, 
Napanee,  213. 
"  N.irrna-,,"  the,  £73,253. 
New  Edinburgh.  49. 

3c 


455 


New  Liverpool,  30. 

Muskoka  Grant,  176. 

Westminster,  294,  306. 

York,  217,  221. 
Newcastle,  100. 
Newmarket,  172. 
Niagara,  39,  205. 

Nipigon.    180;    River,    181;    rapids, 
'■'^.l ;  "portages,"  183. 

Lake,  183. 

Northwest  An„'le,  372. 
Northwest  Arm,  106. 

Oaklands,  267. 
Ogden,  265,  -17,320. 

Cai'ion,  265. 
Omaha,  26:1. 

Ontario,  Lake,  37,  171,  ao8. 
Orange  Valley,  221. 
Orillia,  173. 

Orle-ms,  Island  of,  422,  4:ji;. 
Ottawa,  4,  47,  ,S3,  ,49,  2,5,  ^,0^  3^,^ 

256,  325.  .U2,  397-  402. 
Owen  Sound,  178. 


Paris,  203. 
Parry  Sound,  177. 
Paspediac,  99. 
Paul(St.),  341,3,3,3^. 
Pembina,  344  ;  Fort,  344. 
Perc6,  97,  98. 
"  Petrolia  "  oil-wells,  42, 
Philadelphia,  323,  x!,^ 
Pictou,  103. 
Platte  River,  261. 

Valley,  261. 
Plattsburg,  448. 
Point  Levi.  438. 
Port  Hope,  210. 
Portage  La  Prairie,  39^. 
Prescott,  5,  83,  178,  237,  258,  333. 
Pre.squ'ile,  178. 
Preston,  199. 
Prince  Arthur's  Landing,  184. 

Edward's    Island,   8i,    loo ;    coal- 
mines, 103. 


456 


J^Y  CAXADIA.V  JOURNAL. 


Quebec,  2.  29,  36,  S9.  .'•'o,   ,.3,   ,,6, 
23.),  2J5,  24«,  4'o,  4,X,  42,,  445. 
Quoen  Charlottes  Islands,  288. 

Rama,  174. 

Red  Lake  River,  ,^4  5. 

Kiver,  .,42,  ,546,  356,  387,  395. 
Kosiifjouche  River,  427,  430. 
Rice  Lake,  211. 
Riclinion  I,  43S. 
Ridoau  1-alls,  244. 

River,  244. 
Rimouski,  430. 

Riviere  du  Loup,  5.  o,  ,«,  122,4.7 
Ri>ckw()..(i  I'enitentiar)-,  354. 
Rocky  Mouiilains,  261,  362, 

I'lains,  262. 
Rousseau,  177. 
Lake,  176. 


Saf.'ty  Ifarbor,  2S2. 

Sje^yKWer,.2,.5,.6s.3,,7.43. 
salt  Lake,  265,  317. 

City,  265,  317. 

•'•-•"  J>ancisc,,,  a'-.S,  3,0,  3,2,  :„6. 
Sarnia,  19:;,  196,  2-9, 

Saskatch  wan,  381;   (}rand   Rapids, 

SaultSte.  Marie,  17^,  .s^, 

Havorna-Ii's  Ferry,  305. 

Selkirk,  357. 
•Sevrii,  17^. 
Seynvmr  \arr,)vvs,  aga. 
Sheband:)\van,  185. 

Lake,  18  i. 
SluTbro  ,ke,  435,  44,, 

SIllTIIlUl,   353, 

Shoal  Lake,  393. 

S'll^y,  .H,  29?,  4,34. 

Silv.T  Islet,  184. 

Siincoe,  3  )5.  | 

lake,  r72. 
Smith's  F.ills,  21  ^. 
Spencer  Wood,  3,  434. 
Stansie.-id,  443. 
t-^tong  r„ii,  379,  jno. 


Stratford,  197. 
Superior,  Lake,  184. 
Swest.sbonju^li,  447, 
Sydney,  104. 

Tadousac,   „.  ,4,86,   ,22,  ,64,355. 
3.56,431. 

Tarrytown,  221. 

Thomas  (.>-,t,),  104. 

Thompson  River,  x^,  ^05. 

Thousand  Lslands,  The,  2i'4. 
I       Mile  Tree,  264. 

Three  Rivers,  432. 

Ihuiider  V   y,  184,  ,87. 

Cape,  1S4. 
Ticonderoj;a,  448,  449. 
Toronto,  37,  42-44,  46,  47,  ,7,,  308, 

.U.-i,  324,  .127,  ,59«,  4iO. 
Tribune  liaibor,  28c,  292. 
Trinity  Cliff,  165. 
Trois  Rivieres,  170. 


j  Uintah  Range,  264. 

j  Vancouver  Island,  273. 
Victoria,  273,  284,  289,  296. 

\\'asha),'n,  775. 

Washinj^ton,  223. 

^^'aterford,  205. 

Waterlo(»,  446. 

Welland,  205  ;  Canal,  306. 

\N'est  I'anihani,  .(47. 

Whitby,    209;    "TrafalRar  Castle," 

3IO, 

^^'indsor,  195. 

Winnipeg'.   34.';,  .M^,  .^8,  353 ;  silver 
"••'Klit.s,  359.365,395. 
Lake,  381. 

River,  368,  373.  "porfapes,"374; 
"  White  Ooj;  Mi.ssioii,"  37,  ;  rap. 
''^''-  374,  37'' ;  the  Fall,  374. 
Woodstock,  43,  lai,  aoj. 


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who  take  a  genuine  interest  in  rural  life  •—//(/  Tribunt,  New  York. 


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lore,  this  dehBluft.1  volume  may  be  war,nly  comn.cnded  "_.V<./«  amt  Qutrie, 


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':;L0\VERS  and  TUF.rR  PFDLGRFF.S  llv 
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•'  Nn  writer  treat.  Kientific  .ubject,  with  *i  much  esM  and  chsrm  of  .tyle  m  Mr. 
UmnI  Allen. 

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X  AMERICAN  GIRL  JX  I.OX])OX.  liy  sar  v 
Ji-.A.NMiTTK  Dlscan.  With  Sj  1  lla.sirati..!iN  1j>  I-'.  H.'tuw.n- 
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"An  American  Girl  in  London  "  a  book  which  is  ••  talki>d  about  everywhere." 
"In  the  llRlitcr  literature  of  Inst  year  there  «.is  noihini;  more  am.ifinc  th:,n  'A 
Socal  Ueparlnrc,'  by  S,,ra  Jeaiinette  Dmuan,  of  (  anacla,  It  was  j„st  Io„k  cn.,„Kh_ 
It  coal.l  n„t  w.  II  have  bc.-n  l,.n  ;er-;,„t  each  rea.l-  r  « ishc.l  .hat  the  amiior  mi  'ht  write 
another  ho  ,k  ..,  siunlar  style.  WVll,  she  has  done  it,  an.l  sl.t-  couhl  rol  have  taken  ;. 
better  suhj-ct  than  'An  American  tJirl  in  London.'  "— AVh.  Vvrk  lUral.i. 

"The  raciness  .md  breeii.icss  which  made  '  A  Social  neparturc.'  hy  the  same  an- 
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permeates  the  new  book,  and  ai.p<ars  between  the  lines  of  every  pane.  It  is  super! 
fluous  to  say  that  'An  Au.erican  (JirP  \^  'awfully  fetching  '  "—litook^yn  i>t„mtar,i. 
Vuion, 

A  SOCIAL  DEPARTURE:   Ilm'  OnlunhKia  a,ui  f 
•^^     Went  RoHiid  the   Woihl  by  Otir.uh.s.     I5y  Sara  Jf.an.M' rn-; 
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and  show  the  mind  of  artist  ami  writer  in  unison."—  Wm  t'ork  Jivctiing  i'ost. 

"...  It  is  to  he  doubted  whether  another  hook  can  be  found  so  thoroughly  amtis. 
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PIFTY  PERFECT   POEMS     a  r  „    .•        , 

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GOOD  BOOKS   FOR   YOUNG   READERS. 

7C'S7-  PUBLISHED. 

'E  ALL.  A  story  of  out-door  life  and  adventure 
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Previously  puhlismei)  in  same  Series 
miVDJW  OUT  a   CRO field.      By   W.LUAM 
O.  S  rcni.AKU.      The  story  of  a  country  hoy  who  fought  his  way 
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ycsT  inni.isiiED. 
mSHIPMAN  PA  ULDING.    A  true  story  of  the 

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The  story  is  told  in  a  breezy,  pleasant  style  that  cm  not  f^iil  to  capture  the  fancy 
of  younj!  re.iders.  and  imparts  much  historical  knowledge  at  the  same  lime,  while  the 
illustrations  will  Help  the  iinderstaiulinK  of  the  events  de-cribed.  It  is  an  excellent 
book  for  boys,  and  even  the  girls  will  he  interested  in  'w/'—linvklyn  iitaiuUird-L  niuit. 


L 


XExv  i-niTiox. 

ITTLE  JARVIS.  The  story  of  the  luroic  mid- 
shipman of  the  frijjate  "Constellation."  I!y  .Mol.l.v  Ki.iior 
.Skawki.l.  With  Six  full-paoe  Illustrations  l.y  [.  O.  David- 
son and  C,i:or(;k  Wharton  Edwarhs.  8vo.  liound  uni- 
formly with  "  Midshipman  raulding."     $1.00. 

"  Founded  on  a  true  incident  in  nur  nav.il  history.  ...  So  well  pirliired  ns  to 
briMs  both  smiles  and  tears  upon  the  faces  that  are  bent  over  the  volume.  It  is  in  ex- 
actly  the  spirit  for  t  boy's  book."— .\ ■■.-<.  Wnk  Home  Jouiral. 

"  ritile;.arvis  was  a  iTianly,  jolly  little  midshiom.in  on  foard  the  pood  ship  Ton- 
stelkt.,,n,  m  the  year  ,8.»:  so  full  of  pranks  tlu,  he  sp.-.u  most  nf  his  time  in  the 
cross-trees  and  live.l  prepare.l  for  this  inevitable  fate,  with  a  book  in  one  pocket  an  I  ,a 
piece  of  hard-.ack  m  the  ,.ther,  .  .  His  l.oyish  amhitioi,  w.-,s  to  smell  powder  i.^  "r  al 
\l^)^u"  -"f.' ^"d/""'!'!"  .a  hve  Iren.h  man-of-war.  It  would  he  unfair  to  the  re.nder 
with  hl"f  ■;  '■'  "f  ^."■^■^'•""'"cte,!  hitriseir  when  at  length  the  '  Consteli.ition  '  Rrappk-d 
with  the  frigate 'Vengeance-  in  dea  lly  comlmt."— /V,.r7;/,'«,v  y,-uy>ml. 

whi:;^n  mt  it';;:!^.'^^)!::,^^,;;:';!,^"^  •^"'"'^'  ^""^  ''"^  «'^"="  "■•=  «•-"' 

has  there  been  published  a  more  stiirinR  lesson  in  patrioiism."_A'xi','/..  Beacon. 

"  It  is  what  a  boy  would  call  '  a  real  boy's  hook.'  "-Cha<h,toH  News  ami  Courier. 

.l,-"l.' '"?/,'"  J-'"  !>""-  "'*''';''   '■<'"''<^'l  '•'C   Pri"  of  five  hiindreil   dollars  offered   by 
Teles;ml!h  '  ^""'^""""'-     "  ""^  ""rt'iy  ''"^  distinction  accorded  n.-'-r/nlaMfi/Ja 

"It  is  well  to  multiply  such  books,  that  we  m.iy  awaken  in  the  youth  that  rea<l 
them  the  spirit  ..fdevorion  to  duty  of  which  Little  I.irvis  is  a  tvpc.  We  sh.dl  some 
day  have  need  of  it  all."— .  I  ,„iy  ami  .\ary  Jourmil. 

"Ally  one  in  search  of  a  thoroimhiv  (rood  hook  for  hovs  need  !or)k  no  further,  for 
this  rank.s  among  the  very  best."— .W.'jortwM'  Sentinel. 

New  York  :  D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  i,  3,  &•  e  Bond  Street. 


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STRAIGHT  ON.  a  .s.ory  of  a 
^-^  boy's  .school-life  in  France.  By 
the  author  of  '•  The  Story  of  Co- 
lette." With  eighty-six  Illustra- 
tions by  Edouard  Zier.  320  pages. 
l2mo.     Cloth,  $1.50. 

Few  books  have  appeared  in  recent  vfar« 
M  appeal  so  stron^Wy  to  the  better  sen,  I 
rnens  of  younjj  people  as  does  -Strai^^ht 
On.  '  It  IS  a  deeply  interestinf;  novel  ot  tho 
experiences  of  a  French  officer's  .son  who 
be.nf.  left  an  orphan  at  an  early  a^e  r'e.Ud 

^h Sorfor'r,  "'"'^.  •■"•""'"'''  ^  '"i'  tarv 
'---  ^\\»o\  for  a  term  of  vears.     The  nns  ind 

downs  of  his  life  in  the  new  home  incf  at 

which  pive  the  book  its  title-for  hi^  ^aM?^"!?   *"',  ^^""^'"^  '^«'  ""^ds- 
tive,  culminatinL'  in  a>,  1,-.  ,.f  . '"^""'  "a'cliword.  make  an  absorbinsr  narra- 

!'!>  a  mystery  inVhid   n" my  .Sts  ha^S^^^^^^^^^       ''T  ^^f  ^^  -hi'elt  dears 
■ngly  told  and  ap,>ropriately  iflustrated.  "''"^-    ^'''^  ^'°'>  '^  ^1'^™- 


T 


II.LU.STR.VTED   EDITION   OF   "  COI  ETTE  " 
^HE    STORY    OF    COLFTT^     a     '       ,' 

edition.     With  thirty-six  Il^frtL^-Svo"   ''^^Tr'' 

■ed'^S  Sffi't?^S't^1i;;Se?^S^'  'V'^-^"-  ^--  ''as 
drawings  by  Jean  Claude,  botTvignette  and  fS^^agr""  '''''''-''^  °"*'""^' 

and  p,quant  thoughLs."_C/l,i-4"  yS«f?  ^'  '""  "^  P'"^"-^^'  ""ages,  quaint  figures, 
r^^T^^^^^^^^^^  m  s'f  ""''  '"^-''"^'^'y  P-«y'    The 

i'rovuience  youmal.  innocent  yet  sighmg  gayety  of  Colette's  life."— 

mVrhf/orn™a;j:'''=I,^'rs^-,-;j'/;e^^^^^^  .simplest  li„es,  .I.c-ougMy  pure,  and  ad- 
nttle  skillful  touches  such  ns  Fre^h  li',^^";''".  V'f  5"'"  j'"'^  """'"■■^^  't  isfulfof 
dnce      It  ,.  charac-erized  by  ..  kn"?wlo' W  ?f  h^  ^^    '     'f.?!  ^IT.' I''  ^^"  ^^^^  '?  P™- 


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RECENT   FICTION. 
'HE  FAITH  DOCTOR.     By  Edward  Egolf.ston, 

author  of  "The  Hoosier  Schoolmaster,"  "The  Circuit  KiclL-r,'' 
etc.     121110.     Cloth,  $1.50. 

n  .^„'^•  M ''"r'r'""  ''■'V""''^'''  "''"^'inct  advance  in  his  literary  work  in  'Tic  K.nlih 
r>,.ci„r.  thf  latfst  iiovc  fr„n,  Ins  pen.  I )r  KKnlesmn's  writing  is  re.lly  A, neru  , n  n 
us  chanu.,er,  w,th,.nt  mak„.j,' .n„d>  p  .ra.Ie  „r  pn.fe^sion  on  this  point ;  b,  ,  he  ,a  V  ken 
a  n-«-  phase  ,.f  Anunr.in  life  in  this  book,  ai.d  has  ticatcd  it  verv  1  iV  K,  i  i,c 
evincma  an  increase  of  literary  skill. •■_/,•„./<,« //..,.„/^.         ^   "   ""^   "'''>•  '"•^"'" 

QNE  REASON  WHY.     By  Beatricf.  Whitbv,  au- 
V-^     thor  of  "The  Awakenin^r  of  Maiy  Fenwick,"    "  I'art   of  the 
I'mperty,"  etc.     121110.     Pajicr,  50  cents  ,  cloth,  §1.00. 

nh:^j:.r,;:^?,;'>j:.,;v^;^.;:;:v^.f  ,=?^,^^!;-/? -f  =•  p— ed  s^ceess ..  ,s 

yf    MERCIFUL    DIVORCE.      By   F.   W.    Mauok: 

-'^*  121110.     Paper,  50  ceil  t.s;  cloth,  $  I. oo. 


O 


VE  WOMAN'S  WAV.     By  Edmund  Pendleton, 

author  of  "A  Conventional  Bohemian,"  "A  Virt,'inia  Inherit! 
ance,"  etc.     i2mo.     Paper,  50  cents  ;  cloth,  $1.00. 

"The  author  is  a  Virginian  who  has  written  snmf  intPrcstinir   «fnr;».    ,„j      i. 


T 


YIE    THREE   MISS   KIIVGS       By   Ada   Cam- 

imiDGK,  author  of  "  My  Guardian."     izmo.     Paper,  50  cents  • 
cloth,  75  cents.  ' 

bn\'h?'?.^fi""r'"''"'f^''?  '•<=<:,"'"'V="dcd  as  one  of  the  cboire  stories  of  the   seison 


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"-nilE    SOVEREIGNS    AND 

-'■        COCA'/S     OF     J-UKOPE.        The 
Home  and  Court   Life  aii.l  Character- 
istics  of   the    KeiKiiing   Families.      Hy 
"I'oi.iTiKos."     With    many   I'<3rtiait 
I2m().     Cloth,  ?ii.5o. 

.  "A  remarkably  able  liuok.  .  .  .  A  Rroaldea!  of  the 
-nn  r  Instorv  ot  Kurnpe  ,s  ,„  be  found  infhe  v.lrk  nd  u 
!•-  ilh.vtrale.i  by  adinirabi,-  |>..rt,ails."-y/„  Alluu.rum 

"  Its  chief  merii  is  ihat  it  uiws  ,,  new  view  of  several 
sm,r.i«iis.  .  .  ihe  aiionyniotis  author  seems  tn  have 
screes  of  ,nf  ,nnat,o„  that  are  not  o,,en  to  the  foreicn 
correspondents  who  Ke,.cr,,lly  trv  to  ,  onvey  the  itnpres" 
sion  that  they  an-  on  t.rn.s  of  imimacv  witf.  royalty  •.! 


Specimen  Portrait. 

(Kedurcd.) 


SiiH  l-raucisco  LMroiiulc. 

'  I'he  anonyinniis  author   of  these 


'ketches 


•IIIE    KlNr.  OP  (iKEErR. 


k,n«s!5^ce;;s'and'Si"'''"^t'"''',"''''  ""  "'^'^r  f '  ^•""-"■"  "^  'he  reiRning 
A„.V,!!::^v',";;;.Z:''  """•■"»••""  •«  ^e  n,nt,d  c,.ndu,sc<l  in  so  small  a  vol„„,e.•■- 
for^;ed  wn;^r.'"l  V  vlvrf^t'r^;,^  evidently  the  work  of  a  singnlarly  well-in- 


wi.l  be  valiK'd  bj 

Specimen  I'ortrajt.     (Reduced.) 


Tim  rji'i^PN  or  KNr.i  ami. 


•  •  .  A  book  that  woidd  cive  the  truth,  the 
whole  t'lilb,  and  nnthinn  bi.t  the  truth  (so  far  as 
such  ..oniprthennvcaci  iimcy  is  possible),  about 
these  exalted  personages,  so  often  heard  about 
but  so  seldom  seen  by  ordin.arv  mort.ds,  «as  a 
desideratum,  ai  d  this  hook  seei'ns  »ell  fined  to 
satisfy  the  demand.  I'he  ai.lhor  is  a  well-known 
wnlcroii  qtieMionsindicatcil  by  his  pseudonym  ' 
—.Ui'ntinii  (.iizifff.  ' 

"  A  series  of  essays  and  sketches  of  the 
crowned  reads  which  sum  up  the  charaetcristicj 
of  roy.aiy,  and  >;ive  the  sali.nt  features  of  the 
hie  and  nature  of  m.lividual  rulers  with  an  in- 
telhu.  lice  and  considerable  weight.  "—//<» //.>-rf 
ton  I  nut, 

••  \  very  handy  book  of  reference."— A.iA)« 
/  >vr«.ii  n/'f. 

"The  historical  statements  arc  cineci,  and 
the  royal  pcrsonaijrs  are  tr.ated  with  <lisiriiiiina- 
tion.  The  aiiei dotes  aie  numerous  and  well 
rhogen.  I  he  author's  readiiiij  must  have  been 
wide,  and  his  eoinprehension  of  the  present 
political  condnion  of  Knr.ipc  is  excellent  "— 
Ultraty  W  oilii. 


New  York  ;    D,  ALPLETON  .<l  CO..  i,  3,  &  j  Bond  Street. 


IONS. 

impii  Portrait. 

Kciiurcd.) 


NO  OF  CREEf  E. 

I  of  curious  infor- 
crtainly  in  several 
cli  furiiislics  views 
lian  can  be  fi'iind 

rs  of  the  reiRning 
^  men  and  women, 
iii<  Ki'/ii/i/ic. 
mall  a  volimie." — 

sinRiilariy  wcli-in- 
!•  various  royalties 
lal  csliniate  which 

live  the  truth,  ihe 
lie  irulh  (so  far  as 
-  possihle),  about 
>rtcii  heard  ahout 
rv  iniirt.ils,  was  a 
uns  well  filled  lo 
ir  is  a  well-known 
his  pseudonym.  " 

sivciches  of  the 
he  charatlerisdcs 
t  features  of  the 
ilers  with  an  in- 
Kht.  "— //,i»(/f.»v/ 

n!nce."—/it<tfpn 

are  ri  ricci,  niul 
with  (liMriinina- 
iiruns  and  well 
numt  h.i\e  lie<  n 
(if  the  iiresciit 
is  excallcnt."— 


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N  AMERICAN  GIRL  IN  LONDON.  hy9,AKK 
jEANN^fTO  DCwcAN.  With  80  IJlustratiojis  by  F.  il.  Towx- 
SEND.     lamp.     Paper,  75  cenK  ;  doth,  $1.50.  ;^ 

A  brilliant  book,  picturing  English,  sfrhts,  society,  customs,  and  amuse- 
ments, as  seen  by  an  unconventional  and  witty  observer.  The  siiiie  quali- 
ties which  made  "A  Social  Departure"  so  remarkable  a  success  will  make 
"  Ail  American  Girl  in  London  "  a  b-jok  which  is  "  talked  about  every  where." 
"In  iKe  tighter  litemture  of  last  year  there  *m  nothing  more  amusing  than  '  A 
Social  Defiarture,'  by  Sara  Jeannette  Oiincau,  of  Canada.  It  was  jiiat  Ipng  enough- 
i>  could  jKJt  well  have  been  IOB!{er_bi.t  each  readr.  *i,hcd  that  the  autlior  might  write 
another  l>ook  in  si.nilar  style.  Well,  she  ba»  done  it,  and  she  cout^l  not  have  lakao  a 
•  better  siil^ect  than  '  As  American  Girl  in  London. '  "—New  )  ork  Htrald. 

"The  racinest  and  breeiine»  which  made  '  A  Social  Departure,'  by  the  sane  au- 
thor, last  season,  the  bost-read  and  most  talked-of  book  of  travel  for  many  a  year 
permeates  the  new  lKK>k,  and  appears  between  the  linis  of  every  page.  It  U  .upei-! 
fluous  to  say  that  'An  American  Giri'  U  'awfully  fetching  "•-i!r«,i/y«  i^ti^ndartl^ 
Umom. 


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SOCIAL  DEPARTURE:   Hinv  Otthoddcia  and  r 
Went  Rownd  the   World  by  Ourselves.     By  Sara  JeAn.nktte 
Di;ncAN.     Illustrated  by  F.  H.  TowNSENU.    izmo.     Paper,  75 
cents';  clothi  $1.75. 

"  It  is  a  chttry,  imtty,  dtforout,  charming  book,"— A'rw  Vori  f/eraU, 

"  Widely  read  and  praised  on  both  sides  of  the  Athmk  and  Vacifie,  the  di,iry  U    ' 
now  republished  in  New  York,  with  score*  of  iHustrations  which  fit  the  te«  eiacUy 
and  show  the  inilid  of  artist  and  writer  in  unis9n."— AVw  V,>r*  Evuting  Voti. 

"-  .  .  It  is  to  be  d6Mbled  whether  another  book  can  be  found  so  thoroughly  amua. 
■Ag  from  beginning  to  end."— ,«#nVm(  /?to//y  AdveriSttr. 

"A  very  bright  book  on  a  very  entertmmng  ^nbj-et.  We  commend  it  to  thoM 
readen  who  abbtM'  the  ordinary  stathtical  b6ok  of  WveU. "— fi^j/i-»  Jivtning  Ttam- 
ltri/>t.  _  * 

•    "A  brighter,  merrier,  more  entirely  charming  "jook.  would  be,  indeed,  difficult  to 
fitiA."—St.Lot,uRt^MbUcaH..' 

"For  sparkling  wit,  irreiistibly  coatagious  fun,  keen  obsetvit\)n.  absolutely  poetic 
■ppfeciatidn  of  natural  bmuty,  and  vivid  dew:riptivenes(,  i^Wna  Mceht  rivals- 
Mrs.  P.  T.  Bminuh'I  L«t4r  to  tl^p  A'w  Kur*  rninw. 


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2:^^^!^}^:!^^^^^;^^^ucK-xxoH^ 


T^^f  ff^^^^^^^    ^^OK   OJ^  POETRY 

^       Edaed  by  CHARi.ES  A.  Dana.     Entirely  newed^L  f     ' 
new  typ..  .ith  nearly  two  hundred  addiLnirpo^lr'  slH 

ig  many  shori  Poemny-i^iSo«  whTV*^"*  '"  ""*  *e"-"naiiged  collection 


including  manyshori  PoemV^y :iutho"«  whT"!. '*°''"*  '"  hi*  welUnanged 

Th1."H- "'^  *"«..  authors  "gh.^e^rwhom  i^  A™!'*^"""'  '^?""  "»~  ^''^dr^ 
Ihised.hon  gives  a  Ust  of  author*  a  lis.  n7.h?^  '^'"*"°^»  ""«*  fifty-two  women 


start 


— "^  VH"-   — .»«e<  i-w*  ttforU,  "'  '""  ""CSi  and 

-•^^!!^i.^?S:  '''''^«''"-'>*^P'^«  «^vor  which  it  took  a.  .y-.. 

-  '       loHNsov     w  .K  c  ^"'^R'-ES  A    Dana  and    Rossiter 

Woodward,  Walter  Satter.ee    S^  f ;    Ur^      V"3ruey,  j..  d. 
Kell^v      XK      n  7"er.ee,   s^  u  McCutcheon,  and    f.  E. 

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EW     EDITION     OF 

EXG LIS// ODES.  Selected 
by  Edmlno  Vy.  GossE.  With 
Frontispiece  on  Iiulia  paper 
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EW  EDITION  OF  ENGLISH  L  YMICS.     Uni 

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^11  E  MUSIC  SERIES, 

Consisting  of  Biographical 
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SjKAWELL.  Wit;^,_Sij*  full-page  Illust.j^ations  by  ].  O.  David- 
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.?^.K    f  ■".  ?'  *"u  '*?'?  "'?°;',  'he  f»<:"  '"at  arel>ent  over  the  volume.-  It  is  in  ex. 
actly  Ihelpint  for  a  boy  s  book."  — .V<rj«  York  Home  Jourral. 

.  ,{' l^^^^?  J^^M  *«  '  ?'"''y-  J""y  ""le  midshipman  on  board  the  eood  ship  'Con- 
Mellation,  in  the  year  1800:  so  fufi  of  prank,  that  he  spe:,f  n«>st  of  hirtfme  in  the 
cross-trees  and  Jived  prepared  for  this  inevitable  fate,  with  a  book  n  one  r^et  Tnd  a 
piece  of  haid-tack  in  the  other.  .  His  boyish  ambition  w«,',o  smell  ^wd^r  in  Sr.al 

battle,  to  meet  and  conquer  a  live  French  man-of-war      It  wonlH  I^,,nfl^  t«  »!,.  ^Jj.f, 

with  the fngate' Vengeance    m  iicaLd\y  combat."— fWvidi-nee  ycurna/. 

whiilil?n';u"^fe;'.^l'/^^^^^^  P-»'--.  --^  »-  «iven  the  worH 

L.'Z^iwn"  "ili-?''!'^  Kverett  Hale's  cbs-ic,  '  The  Man  without  a  Country.' 
has  there  been  published  a  more  stirring  lesson  in  patrio.ism."-5^,/i,«  BencOM 

^"Itiswliataboywouldcall  'a  real  boy's  book. "•-C/Ui.-/«to«  New,  and  C<mritr. 

tJ'v^hk'^  f!^  ^1^^-  "'''',''  '««'«'!  'he  Pri«  of  five  hundred  dollars  offetid  by 
Ttug^pk.    ^'"'^''"''-     "»  *»'  *°rthy  'he  distinction  accorded  xx." -Phtadtlphla 

fK.m!^.i**'^v*''f'!I"'''''•^'""^^'"^'*^•  **""  **  '""y  awaWen  in  the  youth  that  read 
div  hlvt  n^;ii\?/.T. •'"".,'"  '''"''  "f  *h.chj.ittle  larvis  is  «  type.  We  shall  «>me 
day  have  need  of  It  all.   ^  Army  and  ^avy  Journal.  ■ 

thi.',w,^.'l!!fJ"  ?!.""''' "^ I?  'ho'^yphlY  Kood  book  for  boyj  need  look  no  further,  for 
thu  ranks  among  the  very  best  "—Mitmaukte  SenHnil.       ,    -  '   ; 


«r 


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CTRAIGHTON.     As.oryofa 

V      Boy's   school-life   in   France.     By 

.     Ihe  author  of  "The  Story  of  Co. 

lette."     With   eighty.six    Illustra-' 

t.onsbyEdouardZier.    320  pages. 

l2mo.     Cloth,  $1.50. 

Few  books  have  appealed  in  recent  yearn 
which  appeal  so  strongly  to  the  beUer  int?^ 

On.      It  IS  a  deeply  interesting  novel  of  tho 
wperiences  of  a  French  oflficer's  i^„    Uo 
being  left  d„  orphan  at  an  early  agT  resTdS 

^hSorror'r,  "'^''^  -"endinri  m^nS? 
school  for  a  term  of  years.  The  uns  anH 
**T"?  «'  his  life  in  the  new  home  and  a1 
which  Hve  the  book  its  ♦itu  /  t-  '  *°,opt'"R:  his  father's  last  words— 
tive,  cuIminaKan  artof  hl°-'''^  "^'^"^^T'.^'  "^''^  ^^  absorb^g  nar^ 
up  a  mystery  ■^^^^^.^l'^^X:i't^Ssl'^'  ^^^t'  -"'"-^S 
■ngly  told  and  appropriately  mustS  ^^    ^^^  ^^""^  ^  ^^arm- 

•  ILLUSTRATED   EDITION^  .■  COLETTE  " 
^HE    STORY    OF    COLETTF     a 

edition.     With  thirty-si.  lUttstrations-Svo^   ShXo^"^' 

.ed'^?:^p:btr."'St?e'\^^^^^^^^ 

drawings  by  Jean  Claude,  both  vglueandtlK"''  th.rty-sa  original 


T 


ZI^l  ''•Vh?^f'  '™"*'?'i°"  or  a  charming  ncvel. 


'Id  bc-'-CAarUs/oH  A^-r™.  "  ""  /-!*!™P"  •*  **"'  "  *«^nch  novel  cai  be, 


me:Jh°e*L'r:S'm«'l^rh-?hT:V^  »'d^to"i"'''""!i"  "r-^  attention  of  bu«, 
bnght  tele  wHI  be  received  as  a  em  from'tftvfi.nTi''  ""''  ?="*''"'  ho-'ewife,  thX 
and  piquant  thoughts.' ■-CAica^j^ayne^  ^''        "^ P'^"*""'  ""ages,  quaint  figurei' 

sto;|^"p=u^^;a-^hiLg^'°Set^^^  ":.''  ?^^  =>- "'-"'"^'y P-«y.  TT,e 
^'ovidtHce  Journal.  *       '      innocent  yet  sighing  gayety  of  Colette's  life.  "-! 

m«4tnSed."^'ltt'Told"'Sifc  ^'  ^i"!'?^".!  """'  »'"*-"P>''y  P"-.  and  ad- 
lutle  skillful  touches  such  L ^-^0!,  li^.l  "  L^"'  H^^J"^  and  racSiess."^  It  is  fulfof 
t^X  }'b  ^ha'-'crerixed  by  a  kn"?wwlT 7f  h*;^™ *  "''  ^"'  ''"2*-'  ^°  *'"  hoVti  prt 
metho,!  which  indica.e  that  it  is  the  worlf  r^lJl  7."  nat'-^e  and  a  mastery  of  style  and 
ever  the  author  of '  Colette '  may  ^theri^r^n^)"  *  ""asterthan  of  a  novice.  .  . "  WW 
t.«e,  most  artistic,  and  in  e?e^ ^kv  Xrmin^  «  ''""r'  'J?^'  "  «  ""«  of  **  PreN 
honored  with  for  a  long  time."JJAV^Vi!fi  r^y«""  '^^  ^'^<=''  fic«jon  has  Uen 

, .    '"  — — ' — • — — — _-__^ .'       ■  ^W- 


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characters  to 

devised  and  shows  a  deep  .  .^^, ,  „i,„„      „ 

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B  .llifstra.e.l  by  adniirabte  port.«it,."_7  J^°A^;<^" 

sover.'iL'i!''''^  "'xJ'  '"■'  "  «'"''  •■•  "f"  "^  of  .evenM 
.^^nT."  ?  r'  •  ^'"=  ^i'-'ny'""'"  author  seems  to  have 
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m;K'L£;:r:;^i;p°l^rirefTr,j^':*,'  «-«-«d.«o<^de.i  of  cunou.  i«for- 

inslance*  had  accessTunusuaTiomc~  Th-^  1  ""'*'  'V*  ''"  ,"«»j"'y  *"  "vetal 
of  .he  king,  and  queerco"cer,?ed  lir  fLlerl^'™^'"'".^  ^^^h  fumi.hes  v.ew, 
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king^'i:ei^.nVi:J?n1^^'-'"''Tt"^a^ *"'".''''  "^!r^'"'  ■i'".""'"  of  ,he  rcigmng 
//-//,«,'^'!4«,"^<?r'  information  ,0  be  found  condensed  in  so  , null  .  volume.  "^ 

formed  S ''jrS::tI;n^:i;^^^b  t^''':^       *"?>?  »f  ^""K..I.rty  well-in. 

conyey  exactly  the  k.rX«?fTar.aer.nrhVm^';,"''"f'^ 

wi,|  be  valucd'by  mtel^enlttt^fl'flir.i'^w""' °^"  f^"»''»'  «=«""-««  whicb 

" .  .  .A  book  that  wdnld  give  the  truth,  the 
whole  truth,  and  nothing  but  the  truth  (so  fiu-  as 
»MCh  comprehcn&ive  ac.  nrncy  \%  possible),  about 
these  exalted  personages,  po  often  heard  about 
»ut  so  seldom  seen  by  ordinary  mortals,  was  a 
desideratum  and  thU  book  secnu  well  fitted  to 
satisfy  the  demand.  The  author  is  a  well-koowii 
wnter  on  questions  indicated  by  his  pseudpnrm  " 

"A  STrle^  of  essays  atia  sketches  of  the 
crowned  f.ead»  which  sum  up  the  characteristics 
of  royalty,  and  give  the  lalirut  feature  of  th«  , 
life  and  nature  of  individual  rulers  with  all  in. 
lelligence  atid  considerable  weight. "—//orMin/ 
Lomrant.  , 

"  A  very  handy  book  of  i«ftri»nce."— AmAw 
Tramtcript. 

.t-*'  ^,"  ''•'Wrical  itatements  arc  correct,  and 
u  "^y""  P*""""***  are  treated  whh  dinchmina- 
Iton;  I  ho  anecdotes  ate  nmneroii,i  ami  well 
choien.  I  he  author's  reading  must  have  btra 
*7.«;  •i™  "I?  comprehension  of  the  pretaat 
political  condition  of  Europe  is  ewiallent."— 
Littrmty  H»rU. 


Specimen  Portrait.    (Reduced.) 


tm  Qvant  or  bnoijinb. 


New  York  ■   I>.  ^PH  FTON  &.C0.,  i,  3,  Hi  Bond  nut.»i; 


I   K" 


■^' 


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)NS. 


n  Portrait 
Juced.) 


OP  CBkBCK. 

f  curioui  inCor- 
jiity  in  several 
rurnithen  views 
I  can  be  fuund 

)f  the  rrigning 
en  and  women, 
Rfpuhlit. 
1  a  volume. "-» 


/ 


[tilarly  wdl-in- 
irious  royalties 
istimate.  whicb 

:  the  truth,  the 
niih  (so  fiir  as 
JssiWe),  about 
1  heard  about 
nnrtiils,  was  • 
well  fitted  10 
a  weH-known 
i»eiKt0nym." 

Itches   of   the 
:haracteri*lics 
atures  of  the   , 
a  with  an  in- 
••—Hariftrtt 

\  correct,  and 
:h  di%crimina- 
>ii^  and  well 
•I  have  bern 
the  presetit 
exiaallenl."— 


»h**tr- 


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